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Ann Roth

Ann Roth (born October 30, 1931) is an American costume designer acclaimed for her character-driven work in film and Broadway theater over a career spanning more than seven decades.^[1] Born in Hanover, Pennsylvania, Roth graduated from Carnegie Mellon University in 1953 with a degree from the School of Drama.^[2] While an undergraduate, she began her professional journey painting scenery for the Pittsburgh Opera Company.^[3] She later apprenticed under renowned designer Irene Sharaff on both film and Broadway projects, transitioning fully into costume design by the late 1960s.^[1] Roth's filmography includes over 100 credits, with notable works including Midnight Cowboy (1969), The Day of the Locust (1975), The English Patient (1996), Cold Mountain (2003), Doubt (2008), The Firm (1993), and Mamma Mia! (2008). She has collaborated extensively with directors such as Mike Nichols and Anthony Minghella.^[3] Her designs emphasize historical research, authenticity, and subtle character revelation through imperfect, lived-in garments rather than overt glamour.^[4] In 2023, at age 91, she made a memorable cameo appearance in Greta Gerwig's Barbie, portraying a character who critiques the film's pink aesthetic.^[5] On Broadway, Roth has designed costumes for more than 100 productions, including Morning's at Seven (1980), The Royal Family (1975), Angels in America (1993), and The Nance (2013).^[6] Her theater work has earned her 14 Tony Award nominations for Best Costume Design, with a win for The Nance in 2013.^[7] Roth's accolades include two Academy Awards for Best Costume Design—for The English Patient in 1997 and for Ma Rainey's Black Bottom in 2021, the latter making her, at 89, the oldest woman to win an Oscar in any competitive category.^[3]^[2] She has also received five Oscar nominations overall, two BAFTA Awards (including for The Day of the Locust in 1975), three Primetime Emmy nominations (for Angels in America in 2004, Mildred Pierce in 2011, and Roanoke in 2017), and multiple Costume Designers Guild Awards.^[3]^[8] In recognition of her lifetime contributions, she was inducted into the American Theater Hall of Fame in 2011 and honored with the Irene Sharaff Lifetime Achievement Award from the Costume Designers Guild in 2022.^[9]

Early life and education

Childhood and family background

Ann Roth was born on October 30, 1931, in Hanover, Pennsylvania, USA.^[10] She grew up in Pennsylvania Dutch country as the daughter of Quakers, in a region known for its traditional rural communities and Amish influences.^[11]^[12]^[5] As a teenager during the 1940s, Roth worked at a local five-and-dime store, often dressing elegantly with a long strand of pearls despite the modest job.^[12] In her youth in Pennsylvania, she received early exposure to the arts through the Bucks County Playhouse, a prominent summer theater venue.^[11]^[13]

Academic training and early influences

Ann Roth earned a Bachelor of Fine Arts degree from the Carnegie Institute of Technology—now known as Carnegie Mellon University—in 1953, where she studied drama and design.^[2] Her Pennsylvania upbringing in Hanover fostered an early interest in the arts, drawing her toward creative fields like theater production.^[13] After graduation, Roth initially pursued work behind the scenes as a scenery painter for the Pittsburgh Opera, intending to focus on set design rather than costumes.^[13] This role provided her first professional experience in live performance, honing her technical skills in visual storytelling for the stage. A pivotal shift occurred when Roth met acclaimed costume designer Irene Sharaff while working at the Bucks County Playhouse in New Hope, Pennsylvania.^[14] Sharaff, recognizing her potential, invited Roth to California to assist on the 1954 Metro-Goldwyn-Mayer film adaptation of Brigadoon, where Roth contributed to the elaborate Highland costumes under Sharaff's guidance.^[13] This apprenticeship marked Roth's entry into costume design, as Sharaff mentored her through five films and five Broadway productions throughout the decade, emphasizing character-driven aesthetics over mere decoration.^[15] In the mid-to-late 1950s, Roth built her foundational expertise through assisting roles on Broadway and other stage projects, including Small War on Murray Hill (1957) for Sharaff and Cheri (1959) for Miles White.^[13] These collaborations exposed her to diverse stylistic demands, from musicals to dramatic revivals, and solidified her understanding of fabric manipulation and historical accuracy in theatrical contexts. She also assisted White on the 1956 film Around the World in Eighty Days, broadening her versatility across media.^[13]

Professional career

Entry into the industry

Ann Roth's entry into the costume design profession began shortly after her graduation from Carnegie Mellon University in 1953, where she had developed foundational skills in design and production.^[12] Her professional debut came in 1957 as an assistant costume designer on Broadway, starting with Small War on Murray Hill at the Ethel Barrymore Theatre, where she assisted the renowned Irene Sharaff.^[13] Throughout the late 1950s, Roth continued in assistant roles on notable productions, including Chéri (1959) and Take Me Along (1959–1960) at the Morosco and Shubert Theatres, respectively, assisting Miles White, which allowed her to gain practical experience in theatrical costuming amid the vibrant New York stage scene.^[13] These early theatre credits honed her ability to collaborate on period and contemporary designs under established mentors. Transitioning to film in the early 1960s, Roth's first major credit as a lead costume designer was for The World of Henry Orient (1964), directed by George Roy Hill, marking her splashy Hollywood debut with vibrant, character-driven ensembles for a cast including Peter Sellers.^[12]^[16] This opportunity followed her apprenticeship work on films like Brigadoon (1954) and A Star Is Born (1954), where she had supported Sharaff in tasks such as dyeing fabrics and sourcing materials.^[13] By the mid-1960s, Roth had shifted from assisting to independent lead positions, contributing to projects that showcased her emerging expertise in blending functionality with narrative depth, as seen in her subsequent work on films like Midnight Cowboy (1969).^[17] As a woman entering the male-dominated film industry during the 1950s and 1960s, Roth faced significant barriers, including gender biases that undervalued costume design as "women's work" and limited opportunities for advancement in production roles.^[18] Her mentor Irene Sharaff explicitly advised against pursuing production design, warning that it was deemed unsuitable for women in the era's Hollywood structure, a reflection of broader systemic sexism that marginalized female creatives despite their essential contributions.^[12] These challenges persisted through Roth's early career, where women in the field often encountered pay inequities and skepticism about their technical authority, yet her persistence under mentors like Sharaff enabled her breakthrough.^[18]

Film and television work

Ann Roth's film career spans over six decades, encompassing more than 130 credits as a costume designer for motion pictures and television.^[19] Her work is renowned for its depth in character development through attire, often blending meticulous research with intuitive storytelling to enhance narrative immersion. Early highlights include her contributions to Midnight Cowboy (1969), where she crafted gritty, era-specific outfits that underscored the film's raw portrayal of urban struggle, earning an Academy Award nomination for Best Costume Design.^[12] Similarly, in The Day of the Locust (1975), Roth's designs captured the seedy underbelly of 1930s Hollywood, winning her a BAFTA Award for Best Costume Design by evoking the period's faded glamour through distressed fabrics and eclectic ensembles.^[20] Roth's approach emphasizes costumes as extensions of character psychology rather than mere historical replicas, prioritizing authenticity derived from backstory and actor collaboration. In The English Patient (1996), co-designed with Carlo Poggioli, she focused on sourcing garments with personal histories—such as a Harris Tweed jacket imagined as a wartime poker-game memento—to reflect the characters' emotional scars amid World War II settings, achieving historical accuracy while allowing imperfections like uneven hems to aid performers in embodying vulnerability; this earned her an Academy Award for Best Costume Design.^[21] Her designs avoid superficial period mimicry, instead serving as tools for actors to inhabit roles organically.^[11] In television, Roth's credits include period pieces like the HBO miniseries Mildred Pierce (2011), where she navigated the constraints of limited shooting schedules to recreate 1930s Depression-era attire, using layered, worn clothing to convey economic hardship and social mobility themes.^[22] These projects highlight her skill in adapting detailed historical research to the medium's faster pace, ensuring costumes support intimate character arcs in serialized formats. For Ma Rainey's Black Bottom (2020), Roth delved into 1920s Chicago's Black cultural scene, designing Viola Davis's titular role with bold, protective layers—including a custom rubber bodysuit for added girth and a horsehair wig evoking Southern roots—to represent Ma Rainey's commanding presence and resistance against racial and gender constraints, securing another Academy Award for Best Costume Design.^[23] Roth's recent involvement extended beyond design with a cameo appearance as the enigmatic woman on the bench in Barbie (2023), directed by Greta Gerwig, at the age of 91; this brief but pivotal role, one of her final contributions, symbolized quiet wisdom amid the film's satirical exploration of femininity.^[24]

Theatre design

Ann Roth's theatre costume design career spans over six decades, encompassing dozens of Broadway productions from the 1960s onward, where she transitioned from assisting prominent designers to leading major works.^[25] Early in her career, Roth served as an assistant to figures like Irene Sharaff on shows such as Small War on Murray Hill (1957) and Miles White on Take Me Along (1959), gaining foundational experience before earning her first lead credit on A Desert Incident (1959).^[25] By the 1960s, she had established herself as a principal designer, contributing to revivals of Neil Simon's The Odd Couple in 1965, 1985, and 2005, as well as contemporary pieces like The Nance (2013), for which she won a Tony Award.^[25]^[6] Other notable credits include The Book of Mormon (2011), To Kill a Mockingbird (2018), Gary: A Sequel to Titus Andronicus (2019), and King Lear (2019), demonstrating her versatility across plays and musicals.^[25] Roth's design philosophy for theatre prioritizes practicality to meet the rigors of live performance, emphasizing durability to ensure costumes endure multiple shows and actor mobility to support fluid movement on stage.^[17] In interviews, she has described focusing on functionality rooted in historical fabric and construction knowledge from the 1730s to 1930s, allowing garments to facilitate quick changes and physical demands without restricting performers.^[6] This approach extends to ensemble storytelling, where costumes serve the collective narrative by enhancing character interactions and group dynamics, as in her tailored ensembles for A Delicate Balance (2014), which balanced individual quirks within the family unit.^[17] Roth collaborates intimately with actors and directors to embed personal details, such as goofy pants for John Lithgow's role, fostering an environment where performers can fully inhabit their characters.^[17] Her stylistic elements often blend meticulous period authenticity with innovative touches, particularly in historical plays where research ensures era-specific silhouettes and textures, as seen in the Shakespearean-era designs for King Lear.^[25] For contemporary or period-reimagined works, Roth infuses modern flair through subtle imperfections and wit, like the 1930s-inspired drag attire in The Nance that highlighted Nathan Lane's vaudeville performer with realistic, lived-in details.^[17]^[6] In The Book of Mormon, she incorporated bold, satirical elements to underscore the ensemble's cultural clashes, using vibrant colors and casual wear to amplify the musical's irreverent tone.^[25] These choices reflect her commitment to costumes that not only visually define roles but also propel the theatrical narrative forward. Roth occasionally adapts film techniques, such as precise fabric draping for close visual impact, to the stage's broader sightlines and immediacy.^[4]

Key collaborations

Ann Roth's career was markedly shaped by enduring partnerships with several prominent directors, spanning film and theater over more than five decades. These collaborations not only amplified her reputation for character-driven costume design but also contributed to multiple award-winning productions.^[26] One of her earliest significant partnerships was with British director John Schlesinger, beginning in the late 1960s. Their collaboration on the 1969 film Midnight Cowboy showcased Roth's ability to craft authentic, era-specific wardrobes that underscored the characters' social and emotional vulnerabilities, such as the flamboyant yet seedy cowboy attire for Jon Voight's Joe Buck, which blended Western flair with urban grit. This single project with Schlesinger highlighted her emerging style of using costumes to reveal character backstory without ostentation, influencing her approach to naturalistic design in subsequent works.^[27]^[28] Roth's most extensive collaboration was with Mike Nichols, encompassing over a dozen projects across film and theater from the 1960s through the 2000s, including Silkwood (1983), Working Girl (1988), Heartburn (1986), and the HBO miniseries Angels in America (2003). In these works, Roth tailored costumes closely to actors' performances and physicality, such as customizing Meryl Streep's everyday ensembles in Silkwood to reflect her character's working-class resilience or adapting wardrobe for Nathan Lane in theatrical roles to enhance comedic timing. This relational approach, where Roth observed rehearsals to refine designs iteratively, became a hallmark of her style, fostering a collaborative dynamic that prioritized actor input and led to critically acclaimed, authentic portrayals; their joint efforts resulted in several Oscar nominations for Roth.^[26]^[20]^[29] With Anthony Minghella, Roth worked on three films starting in the mid-1990s, notably The English Patient (1996), The Talented Mr. Ripley (1999), and Cold Mountain (2003). For The English Patient, she co-designed period costumes that evoked the film's wartime romance and North African settings, using layered fabrics and subtle aging techniques to convey emotional depth for characters like Kristin Scott Thomas's Katharine, earning Roth her first Academy Award for Best Costume Design. Minghella praised her for avoiding superficial pastiche, instead embedding historical accuracy with personal narrative touches, which refined Roth's versatility in blending romance, period detail, and psychological nuance across their projects.^[21]^[11]^[16] Her partnership with Stephen Daldry produced two notable films, The Hours (2002) and The Reader (2008), where Roth's designs emphasized emotional continuity across timelines. In The Hours, she created interconnected wardrobes for Julianne Moore, Meryl Streep, and Nicole Kidman, using recurring motifs like floral prints to symbolize shared themes of domestic entrapment and liberation, which garnered an Oscar nomination. Daldry's trust in Roth's intuitive process allowed her to integrate costumes seamlessly into the narrative's psychological layers, further evolving her emphasis on subtle, performative adaptation that heightened actor-driven storytelling.^[26]^[29] Collectively, these long-term alliances with Schlesinger, Nichols, Minghella, and Daldry spanned over 50 years and involved more than 20 joint projects, transforming Roth's design philosophy toward deeply collaborative, actor-centric work that consistently elevated the emotional and visual impact of award-contending films and theater productions. Roth continued her work until her death on July 23, 2023.^[9]^[26]^[12]

Awards and honors

Academy Awards

Ann Roth received five Academy Award nominations for Best Costume Design over her career, winning twice for her work that emphasized historical authenticity and character depth in period settings. Her first nomination came in 1984 for Places in the Heart, a Depression-era drama set in rural Texas, where her designs captured the simplicity and resilience of everyday rural life through muted, practical garments that reflected economic hardship.^[30] Roth's breakthrough win occurred at the 69th Academy Awards in 1997 for The English Patient, co-designed with Carlo Poggioli, where she crafted costumes evoking the North African desert during World War II. Drawing on extensive research into 1940s military and civilian attire, Roth focused on weathered fabrics and layered silhouettes to convey the characters' emotional isolation and cultural displacement, such as the sand-dusted uniforms and flowing robes that grounded the film's epic romance in tangible historical detail.^[21] She earned subsequent nominations for The Talented Mr. Ripley in 1999, highlighting the sleek 1950s Italian Riviera fashion that mirrored the protagonist's deceptive elegance, and for The Hours in 2003, where her designs spanned three timelines to illustrate the interconnected lives of women through evolving mid-20th-century styles, from Virginia Woolf's Bloomsbury bohemianism to 1950s suburban restraint.^[30]^[31] Roth's second Oscar came at the 93rd Academy Awards in 2021 for Ma Rainey's Black Bottom, a 1920s-set drama about the blues scene in Chicago, at the age of 89, making her the oldest woman to win a competitive Academy Award, tying director James Ivory's record. Her designs for the film, particularly Viola Davis's portrayal of Ma Rainey, incorporated bold, form-fitting pieces like a custom rubber corset and vibrant, beaded dresses sourced from vintage markets to embody the singer's commanding presence and the era's racial and cultural tensions in the music industry.^[30]^[32]

Theatre awards

Ann Roth's contributions to theatre costume design were recognized with one Tony Award win and ten nominations, highlighting her profound influence on Broadway productions. Her sole Tony victory came in 2013 for Best Costume Design of a Play for The Nance, directed by Jack O'Brien and starring Nathan Lane as a burlesque performer in 1930s New York. Roth's designs evoked the vibrant, exaggerated world of vaudeville, using meticulous period details like sequined gowns and comic-strip-inspired outfits to underscore the characters' flamboyant archetypes and the era's burlesque tension between performance and personal identity.^[25]^[33]^[34] Among her Tony nominations were early honors for the 1975 revival of The Royal Family in 1976 and The Crucifer of Blood in 1979, reflecting her emerging mastery of historical and dramatic ensembles. Later nominations included The House of Blue Leaves (1986), The Book of Mormon (2011), Shuffle Along (2016), multiple in 2018 for Carousel, Three Tall Women, and The Iceman Cometh, and two in 2019 for Gary: A Sequel to Titus Andronicus and To Kill a Mockingbird. These accolades spanned plays and musicals, showcasing Roth's versatility in blending authenticity with theatrical flair across decades.^[25] Roth also earned honors from other prominent theatre organizations. She won a Drama Desk Award for Outstanding Costume Design of a Musical for Shuffle Along, or the Making of the Musical Sensation of 1921 and All That Followed in 2016, where her designs illuminated the Harlem Renaissance's jazz-age elegance and historical layers. Additional Drama Desk nominations included Three Tall Women (2018) and The Front Page (2017). For the Outer Critics Circle Awards, she received a nomination for Outstanding Costume Design for Shuffle Along in 2017. In recognition of her lifetime achievements, Roth was inducted into the American Theater Hall of Fame in 2011.^[35]^[36]^[37]^[38]

Other recognitions

In addition to her major accolades, Ann Roth earned four nominations for the BAFTA Award for Best Costume Design, securing wins for The Day of the Locust in 1976 and Ma Rainey's Black Bottom in 2021.^[39]^[40] Her other BAFTA nominations include The English Patient in 1997.^[40] For her television contributions, Roth received three Primetime Emmy nominations in the category of Outstanding Costumes for a Miniseries, Movie, or a Special, for Roanoke in 1986, Angels in America in 2003, and Mildred Pierce in 2011, though she did not win any.^[8]^[40] Roth has also been recognized by the Costume Designers Guild (CDG), with wins including the Excellence in Period Film award for Ma Rainey's Black Bottom in 2021 and nominations such as for Angels in America in 2003 and Mamma Mia! in 2008.^[41]^[40] She received the CDG's Distinguished Collaborator Award in 2012 for her longstanding partnerships in film and theater.^[4] Among her lifetime achievement honors are the Irene Sharaff Lifetime Achievement Award from Theatre Development Fund in 2000, the Golden Starfish Award from the Hamptons International Film Festival in 2012, and the Ming Cho Lee Award from the Henry Hewes Design Awards in 2022.^[42]^[43]^[26] A 2022 profile in Observer magazine celebrated Roth's influence at age 90, emphasizing her character-driven approach to design that has shaped generations of filmmakers and performers.^[26] Beyond awards, Roth's broader impact includes mentorship; she has visited institutions like Carnegie Mellon University and New York University's Tisch School of the Arts to advise emerging designers on practical and creative aspects of the craft.^[44]^[45] Her guidance has extended to industry professionals, with actress Meryl Streep crediting Roth as "the unsung hero of my career" for her intuitive support on multiple projects.^[46]

References

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Ann Roth | ACMI: Your museum of screen culture
Ann Roth (born October 30, 1931) is an American costume designer for films and Broadway theatre. Born in Hanover, Pennsylvania, Roth was a Carnegie Mellon ...
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School of Drama Alumna Ann Roth Takes Home Oscar Gold - News
Apr 26, 2021 · Costume designer Ann Roth, a 1953 graduate of the Carnegie Mellon School of Drama, won for Best Costume Design last night at the 93rd Annual Oscars.
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NYWIFT Designing Women Honoree Ann Roth Wins Oscar at 89
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Ann Roth: The Person In The Mirror - Costume Designers Guild
For six decades Ann Roth has sustained a storied career in costume design. Like any great story, the hero has a drive and motivation the audience never sees.
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Jul 26, 2023 · Ann Roth, 91, from York County, Pennsylvania, is an Academy Award winning costume designer. She has a pivotal cameo in Greta Gerwig's 'Barbie' in a scene ...
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Ann Roth | Television Academy
3 Nominations ; Outstanding Costumes For A Miniseries, Movie Or A Special - 2011. Ann Roth, Costume Designer. Mildred Pierce ; Outstanding Costumes For A ...
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Oct 6, 2012 · In addition to her four Academy Award nominations, Roth has received four Tony Award nominations for her costume designs for the stage (most ...
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Ann Roth was born on October 30, 1931 in Hanover, Pennsylvania, USA. She is a costume designer and actress, known for Barbie (2023), Ma Rainey's Black Bottom ( ...
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Roth is a Carnegie Mellon graduate who began her career as a scenery painter for the Pittsburgh Opera. She intended to remain in the field of production design.
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Feb 1, 2000 · Roth is known both for her own collection of period costumes and for her network of vintage connections. In particular, she has a collector ...
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Nov 16, 2014 · For six decades Ann Roth has been designing costumes for stars of the stage and screen. Behind the curtain with costume designer Ann Roth 06:38 ...Missing: interview | Show results with:interview
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This chapter discusses the challenges film and television costume designers face in ... 184 Costume designer Ann Roth believes the key to fighting pay inequity is ...<|control11|><|separator|>
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Nov 6, 2020 · Roth, who numbers some 130 film and television credits, has worked with Meryl Streep, George C. Wolfe, Scott Rudin, Sidney Lumet, Neil Simon, ...
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Ann Roth Movies List | Rotten Tomatoes
A veteran costume designer, Ann Roth had amassed more than twenty Broadway credits before entering films with George Roy Hill's "The World of Henry Orient" ...
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Costume designers Ann Roth and Carlo Poggioli on The English ...
Nov 7, 2019 · Ann Roth: “This is important - we were doing English Patient and he [Kip, played by Naveen Andrews] takes her [Hana, played by Juliette Binoche] ...Missing: philosophy | Show results with:philosophy
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'Ma Rainey's Black Bottom' Costume Designer Ann Roth on ... - Variety
Nov 6, 2020 · She came to California as a young assistant to Irene Sharaff and worked on 1954's “Brigadoon.” But things didn't come easily. “I was not ...
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Jul 20, 2023 · Roth is featured in the first trailer for Barbie and shares the cutest (and also funniest) scene with star Margot Robbie.
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Jan 26, 2022 · In October, she received her third Lifetime Achievement Award—this, the Ming Cho Lee Award from the Henry Hewes Design Awards. She also has the ...
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Midnight Cowboy: Jon Voight as Joe Buck - BAMF Style
Nov 17, 2024 · Midnight Cowboy was one of the first major screen credits for prolific costume designer Ann Roth. A five-time Academy Award nominee and two-time ...
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Dressing Ratso Rizzo - Air Mail
Mar 13, 2021 · Dustin Hoffman and Jon Voight in John Schlesinger's 1969 classic, Midnight Cowboy. ... Costume designer Ann Roth made Voight's suede jacket ...
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https://www.latimes.com/entertainment-arts/movies/story/2021-04-25/oscars-2021-ann-roth-oldest-winner-ma-raineys-black-bottom
[31]
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Dec 22, 2020 · Ann Roth transformed Viola Davis into Ma Rainey. The legendary costume designer shares the story behind Davis's rubber suit.Missing: representation | Show results with:representation
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Ann Roth (Designer) | Playbill
Roles (108) ; Pb Listing Placeholder BROADWAY V4, The Cool World Opened February 22, 1960. Costume Design ; Take Me Along Playbill - Oct 1959, Take Me AlongMissing: 1950s | Show results with:1950s
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Tyne Daly, Ben Vereen, Ann Roth, Daniel Sullivan and More ...
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Ann Roth. Nancy Steiner - Promising Young Woman. Excellence in Contemporary Film. The Costume Designers Guild Awards. The CDGA honors the ...<|control11|><|separator|>
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TDF Irene Sharaff Awards and Past Winners
Formerly known as the Lifetime Achievement Award in Theatrical Design, this award honors its namesake and symbolizes Tobin's passion, respect and esteem for the ...<|control11|><|separator|>
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Sep 17, 2012 · Ann Roth To Receive HIFF's Golden Starfish Award for Lifetime Achievement in Costume Design ... English Patient (1996). Well-known for the depth ...Missing: philosophy accuracy<|separator|>
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Carnegie Mellon University - Facebook
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Feb 14, 2019 · For two hours, Roth, 87, gave advice to production and design students and reflected on her career, which boasts many years on Broadway, in film ...
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Dec 2, 2021 · Director Sydney Pollack called Ann Roth the “director's secret weapon” and Meryl Streep named her “the unsung hero of my career.Missing: early family influences childhood