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Buttermere

Buttermere is a lake in the north-western part of the in , , forming part of a classic U-shaped glacial valley that also encompasses the adjacent lakes of Crummock Water and Loweswater. The lake measures approximately 1.24 miles (2 km) in length, 620 yards (570 m) in width, and reaches a maximum depth of 94 feet (29 m). Owned by the since acquisitions beginning in the early , Buttermere is celebrated for its serene, unspoiled landscape, rugged surrounding fells including Haystacks and Red Pike, and its role as a hub for walking and outdoor pursuits in one of 's most iconic natural regions. The valley's formation traces back to the , when glaciers carved the distinctive U-shape, leaving behind ribbon lakes and steep-sided fells that define the area's topography. Ecologically, Buttermere supports diverse wildlife, including sheep farming traditions, and features prehistoric sites such as rock art at Mill Beck and cairns on nearby summits like Grasmoor. efforts have preserved its tranquility, with a 1937 covenant by historian protecting the valley head from development, building on earlier 19th-century land purchases by figures like . Human history in the Buttermere area spans millennia, with evidence of continuous habitation from the through Norse settlement in the 9th–10th centuries, reflected in the lake's name derived from words meaning "the lake by the dairy pastures." Medieval remnants include an at Rannerdale, while later economic activities involved limited iron and slate mining. The site gained literary and cultural fame in the late 18th and 19th centuries through visitors like poets and , artist , and the legendary "Maid of Buttermere," (1778–1837), whose story inspired widespread Romantic-era tourism. In the 20th century, it became associated with fell-walker , whose ashes were scattered on Haystacks in 1991, further cementing its status as a pilgrimage site for hikers.

Geography and Setting

The Lake

Buttermere is a classic in the English , characterized by its narrow, elongated shape resulting from glacial . The lake measures approximately 2 km in length and reaches a maximum width of 0.57 km, with a surface area of 0.91 km². It has a maximum depth of 28.6 m and lies at an elevation of 103 m above . The hydrology of Buttermere is driven by local streams and drainage from the surrounding fells. Its primary inflow is Gatesgarthdale Beck, which enters from the southeast near Gatesgarth Farm. The lake's outflow occurs via the short stream known as Buttermere Dubs at its northern end, connecting to Crummock Water; from there, water flows through the River Cocker to the . Geologically, Buttermere occupies a carved by glaciers during the last , specifically the Devensian glaciation, which reshaped the Lake District's volcanic landscape into deep, steep-sided troughs filled by meltwater to form ribbon lakes. The lake is flanked by prominent fells, including High Stile to the southwest at 806 m and Fleetwith Pike to the southeast at 648 m. The lake has been owned by the since 1934, ensuring its preservation as a public amenity. A public of about 7 km encircles the lake, providing level access for walkers and featuring a short rock tunnel—carved in the to bypass private land—near Hassness on the western shore.

The Village and Parish

Buttermere village is a small settlement located at the northwestern end of Buttermere Lake, nestled between Buttermere and Crummock Water within the National Park. The village features a compact layout centered around key landmarks, including St James's Church, a Grade II listed building constructed in 1840 on the site of an earlier structure dating to 1507, and The Bridge Hotel, a historic first licensed in 1735 that serves as a central hub for locals and visitors. These elements contribute to the village's intimate, pedestrian-friendly character, surrounded by the dramatic fells that enhance its proximity to the lakes. The of Buttermere extends over approximately 42.9 square kilometers, encompassing the village of Buttermere, the lakes of Buttermere and Crummock Water, the area of Grassmoor, and several hamlets such as Brackenthwaite and Gatesgarth. The parish boundaries, which were enlarged in 1934 to include Brackenthwaite, lie entirely within the , reflecting a dominated by upland and water bodies. This administrative area supports a rural setting focused on preservation and limited development. Demographically, the parish recorded a population of 92 in the 2021 census, marking a decline from 127 in 2001 and 121 in 2011, indicative of ongoing rural depopulation trends in the . The local economy relies on small-scale farming, particularly sheep and rearing on the surrounding fells, alongside that draws visitors to the area's natural beauty and walking trails. Governance is handled at the local level by , which addresses community needs such as maintenance and planning, while the broader falls under for district services. Additionally, it forms part of the Penrith and Solway .

Etymology and Naming

Origin of the Name

The name Buttermere is primarily derived from butere-mere, translating to "the lake by the pastures" or "butter lake," which reflects the fertile valley's historical use for and production in the . This etymology underscores the area's significance, where lush meadows supported butter-making from onward. An alternative theory posits a origin, linking the name to the Buthar (or Boethar), possibly denoting "Buthar's lake" and suggesting ownership by a Viking during the of in the 9th and 10th centuries. This interpretation aligns with the region's abundant place-name elements, though linguistic analysis favors the derivation as more probable due to the absence of direct evidence for a specific individual named Buthar. Local tradition connects this to the legendary figure Buthar, a supposed chieftain. The earliest recorded form of the name appears as Butermere in the Feet of Fines for 1230, a legal record of land transactions, evolving to Buttermere by 1343 as documented in the Close Rolls. These medieval attestations indicate the name's stabilization during the 13th century, influenced by both Anglo-Saxon and linguistic layers in .

Historical Variations

The name of Buttermere has evolved in spelling through historical records, reflecting changes in documentation and linguistic conventions. The form Butermere is attested in 1230 (Feet of Fines), with Buttermere appearing by 1343 (Close Rolls). By the , the modern spelling "Buttermere" was established and persisted in subsequent usage. Related place names in the area share roots associated with dairy production, underscoring the valley's agricultural heritage. For instance, Buttermere Dubs refers to the lake's outflow, while Gatesgarth, a farmstead at the southern end of the lake, served as a cattle farm or vaccary in the late before transitioning to major in the . For documentary evidence, the Victoria County History of (1901) documents these naming patterns and local features. Early maps, such as Saxton's 1579 survey of and , depict the lake and valley, contributing to standardized geographic representation. Local shows brief influence from elements, common in Cumbrian place names due to Viking settlements.

History

Early and Medieval Periods

The Buttermere valley exhibits traces of prehistoric human activity, with archaeological evidence from the period including at sites like Mill Beck, depicting cup-and-ring motifs that align with broader patterns of ritual marking. By the (c. 2500–700 BCE), activity intensified, as evidenced by erected on the surrounding fells, including Grasmoor and Carling Knott. These stone monuments, often serving funerary or territorial functions, reflect a shift toward more permanent amid environmental changes like woodland clearance for . Pollen from nearby peat bogs supports this, showing increased pastoral indicators alongside cereal cultivation hints, though the uplands remained primarily for herding. In the early medieval period, following the of 1066, Buttermere integrated into the feudal Honour of , a baronial estate overseeing much of western under royal oversight. This structure imposed Norman control on pre-existing Norse-influenced townships, where Viking settlers from the 10th century had established dispersed farmsteads focused on —seasonal movement of livestock to high pastures. By the 13th century, these evolved into formalized manors, such as Gatesgarth, documented in extents and charters as demesne holdings with defined boundaries and tenant obligations. Land ownership transitioned significantly around 1120 when portions of the valley, including northern Buttermere, fell under the , created by King Henry I and subdividing the region for administrative efficiency and military service. This encompassed lowland and upland divisions, with Buttermere's western parts falling under its jurisdiction, fostering a economy centered on through vaccaries—specialized cattle enclosures for milk production. Sites like Gatesgarth operated as such, yielding and cheese for local and manorial , a practice rooted in the area's heritage and reflected etymologically in the name "Buttermere," meaning "butter lake" from elements. Ridge-and-furrow earthworks and remains attest to this mixed arable- system, sustaining smallholder communities amid the fells' challenging terrain.

18th and 19th Centuries

During the 18th and 19th centuries, Buttermere's economy remained centered on traditional livestock farming, particularly dairy and sheep production, which had long characterized the 's pastoral landscape. Farms like Gatesgarth continued to operate as key sites for rearing sheep and cattle, sustaining local households through wool, meat, and dairy products. However, the late marked the emergence of as a supplementary economic force, driven by the growing popularity of the Lake District among artists and writers. Painter J.M.W. Turner's 1798 depiction of Buttermere Lake, exhibited at the Royal Academy, captured the valley's dramatic scenery and helped attract visitors seeking natural beauty. The fame of , the daughter of the Fish Inn's keeper and known as the "Maid of Buttermere," further enhanced the area's allure as a destination. Key events reflected gradual modernization amid the valley's isolation. In 1840, the original chapel dating to 1507 was rebuilt as St James's Church, providing a central for the community and featuring a simple with later extensions in 1884. The broader railway boom of the 1840s, including the 1847 opening of the Kendal and Windermere , improved access to the Lake District overall, facilitating easier travel for tourists from urban centers, though Buttermere's remote position meant it saw limited direct benefit until later proposals. Early 19th-century acts under the General Enclosure Acts of 1801 altered common lands in the region, consolidating holdings and shifting agricultural practices, yet much of Buttermere Fell remained unenclosed common pasture. Social life in Buttermere revolved around a small, stable population sustained by farming and emerging hospitality. The parish's inhabitants numbered 74 in 1801, peaking at 136 in 1821 before declining to 78 by 1851, reflecting the challenges of rural life in a rugged terrain. Inns such as the —later renamed the —served as vital social hubs, offering lodging and refreshment to locals and the growing number of visitors, while the (now the ), established by 1847, catered to this influx. These establishments underscored the valley's transition from insular agrarian existence to a modest participant in the Lake District's burgeoning tourist economy.

Legends and Cultural Significance

The Legend of Jarl Buthar

The legend of Buthar centers on a chieftain who, following the of in , led a prolonged campaign of resistance from a hidden stronghold in the Buttermere valley. According to local , Buthar and his band of Scandinavian warriors evaded Norman forces by retreating into the remote fells of the , using the rugged terrain to their advantage during the late , roughly between 1069 and 1100. Key narratives in the tale describe Buthar's guerrilla tactics, including skirmishes and ambushes in the surrounding hills, where his followers fought to protect their against the invading . To sustain themselves, the group relied on the valley's natural resources, particularly , herding cattle and producing butter in the lush pastures that gave the area its name—allegedly bestowed by Buthar himself. The saga culminates in Buthar's defeat around 1072, when Norman forces lured his men into a trap at Rannerdale Knotts, a nearby valley, leading to a final, bloody that ended the resistance; tales claim the site's sprang from the blood of the fallen warriors. These stories, rooted in oral traditions passed down by Lakeland communities, emphasize themes of defiance and survival but lack archaeological evidence, marking them as enduring myth rather than historical fact. The legend gained wider cultural prominence in the 20th century through that romanticized persistence in the region. In 1929, Nicholas Size, a Buttermere hotelier and local historian, published The Secret Valley: The Real Romance of Unconquered Lakeland, a dramatized account portraying Buthar's fight as a symbol of Lakeland's unconquered spirit. This work inspired Rosemary Sutcliff's 1956 children's novel The Shield Ring, which fictionalizes the resistance in a hidden settlement by Buthar's Mere, highlighting the chieftain's leadership and the valley's role as a last bastion against domination. While these narratives blend with imaginative elements, they have helped preserve the tale's emphasis on cultural endurance in popular memory.

The Maid of Buttermere

(1778–1837), known as the Maid of Buttermere, was the daughter of Joseph Robinson, landlord of the Fish Inn in the village of Buttermere, . Born and raised in the remote valley, she gained early renown for her striking beauty and unassuming simplicity, qualities that captivated visitors to the area. At around age 15, she was described in glowing terms by Captain Joseph Budworth (writing under the pseudonym Joseph Palmer) in his 1792 guidebook A Fortnight's Ramble to the Lakes, which portrayed her as an embodiment of natural grace while serving at her family's inn. This account, published in newspapers, quickly elevated her status as a local celebrity, drawing tourists eager to glimpse the "Beauty of Buttermere." Robinson's fame was further amplified by the Romantic poets who encountered her during their travels. On 11 November 1799, William Wordsworth and Samuel Taylor Coleridge met her at the Fish Inn, later immortalizing her in literature as a symbol of rustic innocence untouched by urban corruption. Wordsworth referenced her in Book VII of The Prelude (composed around 1807), calling her the "artless daughter of the hills, a simple child / That nothing but the simple life she led / Could make so beautiful." Coleridge contributed to her notoriety through articles in the Morning Post, particularly during the scandal that followed. Her image as an ideal of pastoral purity resonated in Romantic ideals, inspiring ballads and etchings, such as James Gillray's 1802 hand-coloured print depicting her serving drinks at the inn. In October 1802, at age 24, Robinson married John Hatfield, a charming impostor who presented himself as the Honourable Alexander Augustus Hope, brother to the Earl of Hopetoun and a colonel in the militia. The wedding took place on 2 October at Lorton Church, attended by locals impressed by his fabricated aristocratic credentials. However, Hatfield was a convicted forger and bigamist with a prior wife and child; his deceptions unraveled soon after, leading to his arrest in December 1802 in North Wales. Tried at Carlisle Assizes, he was convicted of forgery and executed by hanging on 3 September 1803. Robinson gave birth to their daughter shortly before his trial, but the infant died of pneumonia just three weeks later. The scandal, widely covered in newspapers like the Morning Post, generated public sympathy for Robinson, who was seen as a victim of Hatfield's fraud rather than complicit. Wordsworth and his sister Dorothy noted the events in their journals, reinforcing her image as a betrayed innocent. Following the scandal, Robinson remarried in 1806 to Richard Harrison, a farmer from nearby Caldbeck, with whom she had four children. She managed the family inn for a time before relocating to Caldbeck, where she lived a quiet life until her death on 7 February 1837 at age 58. Though she received charitable donations in the aftermath of the events, her later years were marked by modest circumstances. Robinson's story significantly boosted early 19th-century to Buttermere, as visitors flocked to the site of her fame, contributing to the valley's emergence as a destination. Her legacy endures through literary references and cultural depictions, including a plaque in St James's Church, Buttermere, commemorating her as a figure of enduring local significance.

Ecology and Conservation

Flora and Fauna

The Buttermere valley, shaped by its glacial origins, supports a diverse array of and adapted to its oligotrophic lakes, upland fells, and damp woodlands. In the clear, nutrient-poor waters of Buttermere lake, ( trutta) thrive alongside (Perca fluviatilis), with and migrating through to spawn in tributary streams. Common frogs (Rana temporaria), a widespread in Cumbrian wetlands, breed in shallow lake margins and surrounding ponds. Waterfowl such as mallards ( platyrhynchos) and herons (Ardea cinerea) frequent the lakeshores, with herons foraging in reed-fringed bays. Otters (Lutra lutra) have re-established in local streams and lake edges following conservation efforts. On the surrounding fells and in adjacent woodlands, (Cervus elaphus) roam the open terrain, while red squirrels (Sciurus vulgaris) inhabit mixed woods like Holme Wood and Lanthwaite Wood, feeding on seeds and nuts. Traditional sheep grazing maintains open fell habitats, supporting overall . The flora includes spring displays of (Hyacinthoides non-scripta) in Rannerdale Knotts, dense ferns such as parsley fern (Cryptogramma crispa) on rocky screes, and rare arctic-alpine species like alpine lady's mantle (Alchemilla alpina) on high ground above the valley. Seasonally, the valley's wet woodlands, dominated by and , enhance by providing moist habitats for and fungi, supporting a mosaic of year-round. In autumn, oaks () and rowans () contribute vivid colors to the landscape, attracting birds and mammals to their berries and acorns.

Protected Areas and Management

Buttermere lies entirely within the , which was designated in 1951 to protect its outstanding natural beauty and cultural heritage. The Buttermere Fells are designated as a (SSSI) due to their significant geological formations and biological habitats, including dwarf shrub heath communities. In 2017, the broader , encompassing Buttermere, was inscribed on the World Heritage List for its shaped by human-nature interactions over centuries. The acquired key lands around Buttermere in the early 20th century, with a pivotal restrictive covenant secured in 1937 to preserve the valley's unspoiled character, and now manages approximately 3,000 hectares across the Buttermere and adjacent Loweswater valleys. This stewardship includes collaboration with to monitor and enhance SSSI conditions. Management efforts focus on sustainable land use to mitigate environmental pressures. The implements measures, such as riverbanks to stabilize soils and reduce runoff, as part of broader path repair initiatives like Fix the Fells, which address across the fells. Invasive non-native species are actively removed, including felling diseased trees and controlling to prevent displacement, with replanting of to restore ecological balance. Local agriculture is supported through grants under the Farming in Protected Landscapes programme, extended through 2026, which funds sustainable practices like habitat restoration and reduced use to align farming with goals. These measures collectively safeguard Buttermere's by preserving its habitats and promoting resilient ecosystems.

Tourism and Recreation

Walking Routes and Activities

Buttermere offers a variety of walking routes that cater to different levels of , ranging from gentle lakeside strolls to more demanding ascents of the surrounding fells. The most accessible option is the 7 km lakeside path around Buttermere, an easy circular route that typically takes 2-3 hours to complete and features minimal elevation gain of about 200 m, following quiet lanes, farm tracks, and paths with stunning vistas of the lake and enclosing mountains. For those seeking a moderate challenge, the ascent of Haystacks—Alfred Wainwright's favorite fell—begins from Buttermere via Scarth , covering approximately 6 km round trip with a steady climb involving some rocky scrambles to reach the 597 m summit, offering panoramic views of Buttermere and Ennerdale; this route usually takes 3-4 hours and is best approached anti-clockwise to ease the descent. Longer expeditions include routes to High Stile (807 m) or Red Pike (755 m), which form part of the High Stile ridge and span 8-10 km with steep, rocky terrain and significant elevation over 800 m, demanding 5-7 hours and suitable for experienced hikers due to exposed sections and navigation challenges. Beyond walking, Buttermere supports low-impact activities that enhance its natural appeal. is popular along the lake shores and in adjacent s like Lanthwaite Wood, where visitors may spot species such as coots, tufted ducks, great crested grebes, and woodland birds including woodpeckers and pied flycatchers, particularly during migration seasons. for wild and is permitted with a day ticket (£10) covering Buttermere, Crummock Water, and Loweswater, available from car parks and requiring fly, spinning, or worm methods. Wild swimming is feasible in the clear waters of Buttermere, though participants should heed cold temperatures and swim responsibly in quieter areas away from boating traffic. along the quiet B5289 road provides a scenic alternative, tracing the valley's contours past the lake and fells for a 10-mile loop that combines gentle gradients with dramatic scenery. Spring, particularly April to May, is ideal for walks due to blooming wildflowers like in Rannerdale , while winter conditions often bring hazardous weather, including and high winds, making routes impassable without proper gear. Guided tours, including family-friendly and moderate hikes, are offered through the National Park's program of over 140 walks, with National Trust-led options available in the Buttermere for interpretive experiences.

Access and Facilities

Buttermere is primarily accessed by road along the B5289, which runs from approximately 10 miles to the north, or via the steep and scenic from to the south. Parking is limited and concentrated at the ends of the village, with pay-and-display car parks available at Buttermere Village, Lanthwaite Wood, and . Public transport options include the seasonal 77/77A bus service from Keswick, which takes around 45-50 minutes and offers scenic routes via Whinlatter Forest or the Catbells path. A also connects to Buttermere seasonally on weekends and bank holidays from May to , providing five daily return trips at a low fare of £3 per single journey (free for under-5s). Visitor facilities in Buttermere are basic and focused on essentials, reflecting the area's remote character. The village features two traditional pubs—the Buttermere Court Hotel (formerly the Fish Inn) and the Bridge Hotel—offering meals, accommodation, and local ales. Syke Farm provides a tea room with homemade cakes, light meals, and , while is available at the nearby Gatesgarth Farm site, which includes basic amenities like toilets and water points. There are no ATMs or general shops beyond limited provisions at the pubs and farm outlets. As part of the National Park, visitors are encouraged to follow the Countryside Code to protect the landscape, including sticking to marked paths to minimize erosion, taking all home, and keeping dogs under control. Buttermere's popularity for day trips from Keswick underscores the importance of these guidelines in sustaining its .

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