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Knitting machine

A knitting machine is a mechanical device that produces knitted fabric by systematically interlocking loops of yarn using powered or hand-operated needles, converting linear yarn into extensible loop-based structures far more rapidly than manual knitting.^[1]^[2] The first such machine, known as the stocking frame, was invented in 1589 by English clergyman William Lee to automate hosiery production, employing a row of hooked needles that form stitches via a sliding carriage mechanism.^[3]^[4] Subsequent developments introduced circular variants in the early 19th century, such as Marc Brunel's 1816 design for tubular fabrics, expanding applications to seamless garments and enabling mass production in the textile industry.^[5] While boosting productivity and reducing costs through mechanization, knitting machines provoked the Luddite rebellions of 1811–1816, as skilled framework knitters destroyed wide-frame variants that enabled cheaper, lower-quality output by less-trained operators, displacing traditional livelihoods.^[6]^[7] Today, flatbed and circular machines dominate industrial weaving of apparel, technical textiles, and medical fabrics, with computer-controlled models allowing precise patterning and integration of multiple yarns.^[8]

History

Invention and Early Development

The Reverend William Lee, a curate in Calverton near Nottingham, England, invented the first mechanical knitting machine, known as the stocking frame, in 1589.^[9] This hand-powered device automated the formation of loops using a row of bearded needles mounted in a flat bed, allowing for the efficient production of woolen stockings—a process that previously relied on manual knitting with two needles.^[4] The invention addressed the growing demand for hosiery driven by 16th-century fashion trends favoring shorter breeches that exposed legs, making knitted stockings a status symbol among the elite.^[10] Lee petitioned Queen Elizabeth I for a patent to protect and promote his machine, but it was denied amid concerns that widespread adoption would displace skilled hand knitters and exacerbate unemployment in rural areas.^[11] Undeterred, he refined the frame to produce finer-gauge silk stockings by 1598, capable of 18 stitches per inch—suitable for luxury garments.^[4] In 1605, facing continued resistance under King James I, Lee relocated to Rouen, France, with eight machines and trained operators, establishing a workshop that supplied hosiery to the French nobility until his death circa 1610.^[4] After Lee's death, one machine was smuggled back to England by his brother, sparking the domestic framework knitting industry primarily in Nottinghamshire and Leicestershire.^[12] By the 1650s, around 100 frames were operational in England, enabling small-scale production of coarse woolen hose for local markets and laying the groundwork for regional specialization in mechanized textiles.^[13] Early frames remained labor-intensive, requiring skilled operators to hand-operate levers and sinkers for loop formation, with incremental modifications focused on needle spacing and yarn tension rather than radical redesign.^[14]

Industrial Revolution and Widespread Adoption

The stocking frame, initially developed in the late 16th century, experienced expanded use and modifications during the 18th century that aligned with the early phases of the Industrial Revolution, marking it as a precursor to broader textile mechanization. Adaptations to the frame allowed for greater versatility, including the production of cotton stockings by 1785, shifting the industry center to Nottingham and the East Midlands.^[4] This period saw the chartering of the Company of Framework Knitters in 1663, formalizing the trade and promoting standardized production.^[15] By the mid-18th century, hosiers increasingly owned multiple frames—sometimes up to 100—which were rented to operators, introducing capitalist structures to what remained largely a domestic cottage industry.^[16] Widespread adoption accelerated into the early 19th century, with approximately 30,000 frames operating across England by 1800, of which about 25,000 were concentrated in the counties surrounding Nottingham.^[17] In the East Midlands alone, around 20,000 frames were in use by the early 1800s, producing primarily wool and cotton hosiery.^[18] These machines boosted output significantly, enabling one frame to generate 25 to 30 pairs of stockings per week, compared to just two pairs via hand knitting, thereby reducing labor costs and making knitted goods more affordable.^[10] This efficiency contributed to mass production, expanded consumer access to hosiery, and laid groundwork for further industrialization in textiles, though it also sparked resistance from frame-work knitters facing wage pressures.^[15] The framework knitting system's growth exemplified causal shifts toward mechanized labor division, with frames' wooden construction and manual operation evolving incrementally before power integration in later decades. Production costs reflected this scalability: a new frame ranged from £25 to £50 in 1780–1810, while second-hand models cost about £10, making investment accessible yet capital-intensive for owners.^[19] By establishing hosiery as a staple export commodity, the technology influenced regional economies, particularly in Nottinghamshire, where over 90% of regional frames operated by the early 1780s.^[19]

20th-Century Mechanization

In the early 20th century, knitting machine design emphasized enhanced stitch versatility and production efficiency for hosiery and garments. The 1902 introduction of the 'XL' double-cylinder circular knitting machine by Spiers and Grieves in Leicester, England, represented a key advancement, enabling automated ribbing and seamless tubular knitting; this model dominated hosiery manufacturing until the 1970s due to its reliability and scalability.^[20] Concurrently, refinements in purl-capable machines, building on Heinrich Stoll's 1892 flat-bed purl invention, allowed for tuck, slip, and rib stitches essential for fitted apparel, with British firms like G. Stibbe & Co. developing multi-feed models such as the 'Maxim' and 'Challenger' by the 1930s.^[21] The adoption of latch needles in the 1920s further boosted machine performance by providing self-closing hooks that reduced yarn breaks and enabled higher speeds compared to earlier bearded needles.^[22] Mid-century mechanization accelerated with electrification, replacing treadle or hand-crank systems with electric motors, which permitted continuous operation and integration of automatic take-down mechanisms for fabric handling.^[23] Post-World War II demand spurred imports of over 2,000 fully-fashioned flat-bed machines from U.S. firms like Textile Machine Works between 1945 and 1949, facilitating shaped garment production through selective stitch widening and narrowing.^[20] British innovators, including Wildt & Co., introduced models like the 'Auto-Express RJ' with powered patterning cams, reducing operator intervention and increasing output rates to hundreds of courses per minute.^[20] These developments mechanized what had been labor-intensive processes, with industry employment peaking amid wartime halts and subsequent booms.^[20] By the latter 20th century, automation incorporated early electronic controls for precise stitch selection, laying groundwork for jacquard patterning in inter-war machines and beyond, though full computerization emerged later.^[24] High tariffs in 1932 protected domestic production, fostering firms like Bentley with the 'Komet' double-cylinder variant, which competed with American Scott & Williams interlock machines licensed in the UK since 1890 but scaled up post-1945.^[20] This era's mechanization prioritized causal efficiency—fewer operators per machine and minimized defects—driven by empirical demands for mass-produced knits in apparel and undergarments, verifiable through production records showing output multiples over manual methods.^[25]

Operating Principles

Fundamental Mechanics

Knitting machines produce fabric by mechanically interlocking successive rows of yarn loops using specialized needles as the primary elements. The fundamental operation involves the needles undergoing a cyclic motion controlled by cams, which raise and lower the needles via their butts to hook fresh yarn, form new loops, and release old ones. This process relies on precise timing of yarn feed and loop manipulation to ensure consistent stitch formation without dropped stitches or yarn breakage.^[26]^[27] The core knitting action occurs through three phases: yarn presentation, loop formation, and old loop casting-off. In the first phase, the needle hook is positioned to receive yarn from a feeder; the needle then descends partially to secure the yarn while the old loop from the previous course remains held. As the needle continues its descent, the old loop passes over the latch or beard, closing the hook and forming the new loop, which is then held for the next cycle. Sinkers, positioned between needles, hold down the fabric and prevent premature loop distortion during formation.^[28]^[29] Needles in knitting machines primarily consist of three types: bearded (spring-loaded hook), latch (self-closing hook), and compound (two-part closing mechanism). Bearded needles, the earliest type dating to the 16th century, require a separate presser to close the hook but enable high-speed operation in circular machines due to their simplicity. Latch needles, predominant in modern flat and circular machines since the 19th century, feature a pivoting latch that automatically closes upon descent, reducing the need for auxiliary parts and allowing reliable operation with varied yarns. Compound needles, used in high-precision warp knitting, combine a hook and slider for independent control of loop formation, enhancing versatility for complex structures. Each type's mechanics prioritize minimizing yarn tension variations, typically maintaining forces below 5-10 grams per needle to avoid breaks, as determined by empirical testing in textile engineering.^[29]^[27]^[26] Cams and yarn carriers constitute the mechanical framework enabling these actions. Cam systems, often fixed in circular machines or traversing in flat beds, impart vertical motion—up to 20-30 mm stroke lengths—while horizontal guides maintain needle alignment. Yarn tension is regulated at 1-5% elongation via positive feeders, ensuring uniform loop size across gauges ranging from 5 to 40 needles per inch. These principles, grounded in kinematic analysis of needle trajectories, underpin the efficiency of machines producing up to 1,000 courses per minute in industrial settings.^[1]^[26]

Stitch Formation Processes

Stitch formation in knitting machines entails the creation and interlocking of yarn loops through coordinated movements of needles and yarn-feeding elements, producing the basic unit of knitted fabric known as a stitch. This process depends on mechanical precision to ensure loop stability and fabric integrity, with variations between weft and warp systems arising from yarn orientation and feeding methods. Empirical studies of loop mechanics highlight the role of yarn tension and needle geometry in determining loop shape and size during formation.^[30]^[31] In weft knitting machines, stitches form sequentially in horizontal courses using a single yarn per row. The cycle initiates with the needle at knock-over, holding the prior loop in its hook; as the needle ascends, the latch pivots open, permitting the old loop to descend the needle stem while new yarn is laid into the hook by a carrier. Descent closes the latch, pulling the fresh yarn through the old loop, which slips off the needle tip to interlock, yielding a new head and feet configuration integral to the fabric structure. This robbing-back effect, where yarn redistributes from adjacent loops, influences final loop dimensions and requires controlled tension to minimize distortion.^[32]^[30]^[33] Warp knitting machines form stitches vertically and simultaneously across the fabric width, employing multiple warp yarns parallel to the machine's length. Guide bars shog and lap yarns around bearded or latch needles in predefined patterns, such as tricot or raschel, before the needles retract to draw threads through existing loops, establishing pillar or chain stitches. This parallel yarn supply enables rapid production, with stitch density governed by underlap and overlap motions; for instance, in tricot machines, a 1-0/1-2 lapping yields closed-loop structures resistant to runs. Unlike weft, warp formation inherently produces stable, non-laddering fabrics due to vertical interlooping.^[34]^[35]^[36]

Types

Weft Knitting Machines

Weft knitting machines produce fabric by forming successive courses of loops horizontally across the width, with each course typically created from a single continuous yarn fed into the needles.^[37] This contrasts with warp knitting, where multiple yarns form loops vertically along the length.^[38] The process relies on mechanical needle actions—such as latch, bearded, or compound needles—guided by cams to hook, draw, and cast off yarn loops, enabling high-speed production of extensible fabrics like jerseys, ribs, and interlocks.^[39] These machines originated with William Lee's invention of the stocking frame in 1589, a flat-bed weft knitter that mechanized loop formation for hosiery using bearded needles and a warp-like yarn arrangement but weft-style looping.^[4] Circular weft knitting emerged later, with Marc Brunel patenting the first tubular machine in 1816, allowing seamless tube production by rotating a needle cylinder under fixed yarn feeders.^[5] Modern developments include electronic controls for pattern variation, with machines achieving speeds up to 3,500 courses per minute in high-production models.^[40] Weft knitting machines classify primarily into circular and flat-bed types, differing in needle arrangement and output shape. Circular machines feature needles mounted radially on a rotating cylinder (and optionally a dial for double-knit), forming tubular or open-width fabrics via continuous revolution, ideal for hosiery, underwear, and sportswear due to seamlessness and efficiency.^[1] Flat-bed machines use straight needle beds with a traversing carriage that moves cams across to knit flat panels, suited for shaped garments like sweaters where patterning and seaming are needed, though slower than circular counterparts.^[1] Subtypes include single jersey for basic smooth fabrics, rib for elastic edges, and interlock for denser double-faced knits, each requiring specific cam systems and feeders.^[41] Operation involves yarn tension control, precise feeder spacing (typically 1-4 inches apart), and synchronization to prevent defects like dropped stitches, with production rates influenced by gauge (needles per inch, from 12 to 32) and yarn count.^[37] Optimal rotational speeds, such as 40 revolutions per minute for certain setups, balance output with yarn integrity, yielding fabrics from 50 to 500 g/m².^[42] ^[43] Advances in compound needles and automation have enhanced versatility, enabling complex jacquards while maintaining the core weft principle of lateral loop intermeshing.^[40]

Warp Knitting Machines

Warp knitting machines fabricate textiles by supplying multiple yarns parallel to the fabric's length, with each yarn forming a series of interconnected loops along vertical wales, secured by adjacent yarns' lateral underlaps. This contrasts with weft knitting, where a single yarn traverses horizontally to interloop across courses, as warp knitting demands precise coordination of numerous warp beams to achieve inherent stability and resistance to laddering.^[37]^[34] The resulting structures exhibit superior dimensional stability, retaining shape under tension or laundering due to the longitudinal yarn orientation and interlocking mechanism.^[38] Core components include a knitting element with needles in a fixed bed, multiple guide bars for yarn lapping, warp let-off systems for controlled feeding, and take-up mechanisms for fabric winding. During operation, guide bars shog (shift laterally) and swing to wrap yarn around needle shanks, while needles rise to form new loops over the previous course's sinker loops; bearded, compound, or latch needles facilitate loop closure, with sinkers supporting underlaps.^[44]^[45] Machine gauges, typically 28 to E50 needles per inch, determine fabric fineness, with production speeds varying by type but enabling outputs up to 600 courses per minute in high-performance models.^[46] Tricot machines, employing compound or bearded needles, specialize in high-speed production of smooth, run-resistant fabrics from continuous-filament yarns, operating at over 2000 rpm to yield tricot stitches for applications like linings, underwear, and sportswear.^[47]^[48] Raschel machines, using latch needles and coarser gauges (E0 to E18), provide extensive patterning via up to 12 or more guide bars, suited for openwork structures such as lace trims, nets, and technical textiles including geotextiles and medical meshes.^[49]^[50] Both types support variable beam counts, with raschel favoring versatility in heavy denier yarns for products like cargo nets and protective fabrics.^[51] The technology originated in 1775 with Josiah Crane's English patent for a warp-equipped frame, adapting guides to produce chain-like stitches mechanically.^[52]^[53] By 1805, Joseph Jacquard's selectable shedding advanced pattern control, paving the way for industrialized variants that expanded into diverse sectors by the mid-19th century.^[53] Modern iterations incorporate electronic patterning and carbon-fiber elements for precision, though core principles remain grounded in warp-parallel looping for enhanced tensile properties over weft alternatives.^[54]

Specialized Modern Variants

Specialized modern knitting machines target niche applications, producing items like socks, gloves, and medical textiles with tailored mechanisms for precision, seamlessness, and material compatibility. These variants often integrate computer controls for patterning, shaping, and quality consistency, enabling high-volume output beyond general fabric production.^[55]^[56] Sock knitting machines exemplify this specialization, utilizing circular weft techniques to form seamless tubes that are shaped into finished products via automated toe and heel closing. Modern models, such as those employing sinker systems, operate at gauges of 10 to 13 needles per inch, supporting terry, jacquard, or 3D patterns for athletic or therapeutic socks.^[55] Computerized variants achieve speeds exceeding 300 revolutions per minute, reducing labor while maintaining uniformity in thickness and elasticity critical for fit.^[57] Glove knitting machines adapt similar circular or flat-bed systems for finger-specific forming, often with individual needle selection for contoured palms and reinforced areas. These produce seamless gloves for industrial, medical, or consumer use, incorporating features like linked toes for dexterity and antimicrobial yarn integration. High-speed models handle multiple yarn feeds, yielding up to 1,000 pairs per shift in automated setups.^[58]^[55] For medical textiles, custom knitting machines fabricate compression garments, stents, and wound dressings using biocompatible yarns and precise tension control to meet regulatory standards for elasticity and durability. Manufacturers like Lamb Knitting Machine Corporation develop equipment for applications including vascular stents via fine-gauge warp or weft structures and ear-loop cords for masks, emphasizing sterility and customization.^[56] These systems prioritize hypoallergenic outputs, with capabilities for graduated compression profiles aiding venous conditions.^[56]

Comparison to Hand Knitting

Efficiency and Output Differences

Knitting machines exhibit markedly superior efficiency compared to hand knitting, primarily through accelerated production rates and reduced labor requirements per unit output. A proficient hand knitter achieves approximately 120-150 stitches per minute under optimal conditions, limited by manual dexterity and fatigue.^[59] In contrast, industrial circular knitting machines operate at speeds exceeding 2,000 stitches per minute, while even domestic models like the Bond Ultimate Sweater Machine reach up to 1,200 stitches per minute.^[1]^[60] This disparity translates to machines completing simple garments, such as hats, in 30-40 minutes on entry-level automated devices, versus several hours or days for equivalent hand-knitted items.^[60] Output volume scales exponentially with mechanization; a single operator can manage machinery equivalent to the productivity of multiple hand knitters simultaneously, enabling factory-level production of thousands of units daily.^[59] Historical data from mid-20th-century machines, such as those producing 7,000 stitches per minute on an 84-needle cylinder, underscore early realizations of these gains, which facilitated the shift from artisanal to mass manufacturing.^[61] Machines also minimize variability in stitch tension and gauge, yielding consistent output with defect rates far below those of hand methods, where human error accumulates over extended sessions.^[62] Energy and material efficiency further amplify machine advantages, as automated controls optimize yarn feed and loop formation, reducing waste compared to the trial-and-error adjustments inherent in hand knitting.^[63] Overall, these factors render knitting machines 10-20 times more efficient in throughput, depending on model and complexity, transforming knitting from a labor-intensive craft into a viable industrial process.^[64]

Design Flexibility and Quality Aspects

Hand knitting affords greater design flexibility than mechanical knitting machines, enabling knitters to improvise patterns, incorporate irregular shaping, and execute complex techniques like intarsia or multi-directional cabling without predefined programming or attachments.^[65]^[66] In contrast, mechanical machines, such as punch-card or lever-operated models, are limited by fixed needle beds—typically 200 to 250 needles—and repetitive patterning constraints, restricting them to motifs under 24 stitches wide and requiring manual intervention for transfers or short-row shaping that often demands disassembly or rehanging.^[67]^[68] Even electronic variants, while allowing digital pattern input, cannot replicate the tactile adjustments possible by hand, such as mid-row stitch manipulations for asymmetrical designs or custom gussets.^[66] Quality in machine-knitted fabrics stems primarily from mechanical uniformity, producing even tension and gauge across large outputs—often 4 to 12 stitches per inch depending on machine fine/coarse settings—which minimizes defects like laddering or dropped stitches in high-volume production.^[69]^[70] Hand-knitted pieces, by comparison, exhibit natural variations in stitch density and drape due to human grip and rhythm, which skilled artisans leverage for textured depth in patterns like Aran cables but can result in inconsistencies, such as tighter selvedges or uneven rows, absent rigorous technique.^[71] Machine outputs prioritize scalability and precision for industrial yarns engineered for elasticity under automated tension, whereas hand knitting suits softer, pliable fibers that enhance tactile appeal but may wear faster under stress without reinforcement.^[72] Circular knitting machines further exemplify quality trade-offs, delivering seamless tubes ideal for socks or hosiery with consistent radial symmetry but lacking flexibility for contoured garments like fitted bodices, where hand methods allow precise decreases and increases for ergonomic fit.^[73] Overall, while machines achieve reproducible quality at speeds up to 1,000 courses per minute for plain knits, hand knitting's artisanal control yields superior customization at the cost of variability, influencing applications from bespoke couture to standardized apparel.^[65]^[70]

Productivity Gains and Industry Expansion

The stocking frame invented by William Lee in 1589 initiated mechanized knitting production, allowing operators to knit stockings at rates far surpassing hand methods, which required days or weeks per pair.^[4] This device, using bearded needles to form loops mechanically, represented the first significant mechanization in textiles, enabling consistent output of fine-gauge silk hosiery previously limited by manual labor's slow pace.^[74] Frame operators could achieve up to 600 stitches per minute, a capability that transformed hosiery from artisanal craft to scalable manufacture.^[74] These productivity advances spurred rapid industry growth in England, where frames proliferated under the domestic putting-out system, with hosiers renting machines to knitters in cottages.^[75] By the early 19th century, approximately 30,000 frames operated across England, with over 25,000 concentrated in counties surrounding Nottingham, sustaining a workforce of framework knitters numbering in the tens of thousands.^[17] This expansion established the East Midlands, particularly Nottingham and Leicester, as hosiery production hubs, fostering exports and integrating into broader textile trade networks.^[18] Further innovations, such as powered frames in the mid-19th century, compounded gains by shifting toward factory-based operations, though hand-operated models endured into the 1880s amid declining cottage production.^[76] The framework knitting sector laid groundwork for Britain's hosiery industry, one of the nation's largest textile branches, by enabling mass production that met rising demand for affordable knitwear during early industrialization.^[77] Economic output grew through specialized improvements in machine components, supporting employment and regional prosperity despite periodic disruptions.^[25]

Labor Disruptions and Historical Controversies

The introduction of the stocking frame, the first mechanical knitting device invented by William Lee in 1589, sparked early concerns over labor displacement. Queen Elizabeth I reportedly declined to grant Lee a patent, citing fears that the machine would undermine the livelihoods of hand-knitters by automating a labor-intensive craft traditionally performed by skilled workers in domestic settings.^[5]^[15] By the late 18th and early 19th centuries, widespread adoption of improved stocking frames and wide knitting frames for lace production intensified economic pressures on frame-work knitters, particularly in Nottinghamshire. These machines enabled the production of cheaper, lower-quality goods using less skilled labor, leading to wage cuts—sometimes by half—and unemployment as frame owners imposed "cut-up" methods that reduced piece rates.^[6]^[78] The Luddite movement, emerging in 1811, represented the peak of labor disruptions against knitting machinery. Named after the mythical Ned Ludd, who allegedly smashed frames in 1779, groups of skilled knitters and weavers organized nocturnal raids to destroy over 1,000 frames across Nottinghamshire, Derbyshire, Leicestershire, and later Lancashire and Yorkshire, targeting those operated at reduced wages or by non-apprenticed workers.^[78]^[7] These actions, framed by participants as resistance to exploitative practices rather than technology itself, prompted a severe governmental response, including the deployment of troops and the Frame Breaking Act of 1812, which imposed capital punishment for machine destruction. By 1816, the movement was suppressed, with at least 17 Luddites executed and dozens transported to Australia, though the underlying mechanization-driven deskilling persisted, contributing to the broader industrialization of textiles.^[6]^[79]

Recent Innovations

Computerization and Automation

The integration of computers into knitting machines marked a pivotal advancement in the late 1970s, transitioning from mechanical punch-card systems to electronic programmable controls that enabled precise needle selection, stitch formation, and pattern complexity unattainable manually. Shima Seiki introduced the SNC series in 1978 as the first computer-controlled flat knitting machine, facilitating small-batch production of varied designs by storing and executing digital instructions for yarn feeding and loop manipulation.^[80] This shift addressed limitations of earlier electronic controls, which emerged around 1975 and allowed non-volatile data storage for patterns even when powered off, reducing reliance on physical templates and operator intervention.^[81] By the 1980s, computerization expanded to both flat and circular machines, incorporating CAD/CAM software for design simulation and direct machine interfacing, which minimized prototyping time and material waste through virtual testing of tension, gauge, and shaping. Manufacturers like Shima Seiki advanced this with the SES series in 1988, featuring enhanced computational capabilities for multi-color intarsia and jacquard patterning at speeds up to 1.2 meters per minute.^[82] Automation complemented these systems by automating ancillary processes, such as yarn tensioning and defect detection via sensors, yielding productivity gains of 20-30% in industrial settings by eliminating manual adjustments.^[83] Contemporary automation leverages Industry 4.0 principles, integrating IoT for real-time monitoring, predictive maintenance, and robotic handling of fabric transfer between machines, as seen in systems reducing downtime by up to 15% through data-driven algorithms.^[84] In flat knitting, robotics now perform automated loop transfers and shaping, enabling complex 3D forms without seams, while circular variants employ CNC controls for precise diameter adjustments during production. These developments, driven by empirical demands for efficiency in high-volume apparel, have lowered labor costs by automating 70-80% of repetitive tasks, though they require skilled programming to maintain quality in variable yarn inputs.^[83]^[85]

3D Knitting and Seamless Production

3D knitting refers to a computer-controlled process that produces three-dimensional textile structures directly on flat or circular knitting machines, enabling the creation of shaped garments or components without subsequent cutting or sewing.^[86] This technology integrates variable stitch densities, yarn tensions, and loop manipulations to form complex geometries, such as curved hems or integrated reinforcements, in a single operation.^[87] Seamless production, a key application of 3D knitting, emerged prominently with the development of whole-garment machines in the mid-1990s. Japanese firm Shima Seiki introduced its WHOLEGARMENT system in 1995, which knits entire apparel pieces—like sweaters or cardigans—in one seamless piece using dual-bed flat knitting machines with synchronized carriage movements.^[88] ^[89] These machines employ up to 3,600 needles per bed to manipulate yarn in three dimensions, forming front, back, and sleeve panels simultaneously while minimizing material waste to under 5% per garment compared to traditional cut-and-sew methods that generate 15-20% scraps.^[90] ^[91] Advancements in 3D seamless knitting have focused on automation and customization. By 2023, machines like Shima Seiki's MACH2XS incorporate AI-driven pattern optimization and real-time yarn feed adjustments, allowing production speeds of up to 1.2 meters per minute for complex structures.^[92] This enables on-demand manufacturing, reducing lead times from weeks to hours and supporting small-batch runs for personalized fits based on 3D body scans.^[93] German manufacturer Stoll offers complementary "knit-and-wear" systems, though these often require minimal post-knitting assembly unlike Shima Seiki's fully seamless output.^[94] The technology's economic viability is evidenced by market growth, with the global 3D knitting machines sector valued at USD 1.4 billion in 2025 and projected to reach USD 2.4 billion by 2035 at a 5.6% CAGR, driven by demand in sportswear and technical textiles.^[95] Benefits include enhanced durability from integrated seams that distribute stress evenly, reducing failure points by up to 30% in performance apparel, alongside sustainability gains from lower energy use—seamless processes consume 20-40% less power than multi-step assembly lines.^[96] ^[97] However, high initial costs, exceeding USD 200,000 per machine, limit adoption to large-scale producers, though software simulations now allow virtual prototyping to mitigate design risks.^[98]

Sustainability and Material Advancements

Modern knitting machines have incorporated designs that reduce energy consumption, with circular variants requiring less power and water compared to traditional weaving processes, contributing to lower environmental impact in textile production.^[99] Advancements such as the LCmax needle, introduced by Groz-Beckert in 2025, enable more energy-efficient operation by optimizing needle mechanics to minimize friction and power draw during stitching.^[100] Similarly, recent models feature energy-efficient motors and lubrication systems that cut oil use and waste, aligning with broader industry shifts toward reduced operational footprints.^[101] Seamless and 3D knitting technologies represent key sustainability gains, slashing fabric waste by up to 90 percent through precise, shape-forming production that eliminates cutting and sewing scraps.^[86] These methods also decrease water usage by approximately 30 percent, particularly when integrated with spun-dyed yarns that avoid traditional wet dyeing processes.^[86] Automation in computerized circular machines further minimizes material waste via optimized yarn management and precise patterning, supporting zero-waste goals in fully fashioned knitwear.^[84] Industry reports from 2023 highlight a focus on closed-loop systems, where machines facilitate reusing and upcycling of raw materials to curb landfill contributions from textile offcuts.^[102] Material advancements emphasize compatibility with eco-friendly fibers, including recycled polyester from post-consumer plastics and organic cottons, which modern machines process without compromising output speed or quality.^[103] Biodegradable yarns, such as those derived from plant-based polymers, are increasingly viable due to refined needle gauges and tension controls in flatbed and circular setups, enabling durable yet decomposable fabrics.^[104] By 2025, leading manufacturers have prioritized machines adaptable to these inputs, promoting seamless integration of recycled content to lower the textile sector's reliance on virgin petroleum-based synthetics.^[105] These developments, evidenced in ITMA 2023 exhibits, underscore advanced materials' role in sustainable knitting without sacrificing functionality.^[94]

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Recognising the Co-dependence of Machine and Hand in the ...
22 Hand-operated knitting machines became increasingly advanced throughout the twentieth century. The addition of jacquard technology during the inter-war ...
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The Development of Hosiery Knitting - Textiles History
In 1863, when the United States was racked by a civil war, an American clergyman, Q. U. Lamb, invented the first flat bed knitting machine for manufacturing ...
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Knitting Machine - an overview | ScienceDirect Topics
A knitting machine is an apparatus for applying mechanical movement by means of hand or other power to primary knitting elements in order to produce knitted ...
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What is Knitting Needle | Basic Knitting Action of a Needle
Aug 16, 2022 · 1. Bearded Needle: The spring bearded needle is the oldest type. · 2. Latch Needle: This is the most popular needle used in knitting. · 3.
[28]
Introduction to Machine Knitting | Index - MIT
This operation creates a loop through all existing loop of a needle, then dropping these previous loops while holding the newly formed loop.
[29]
Different types of Knitting needles - Textile Study Center
Mar 9, 2016 · Three primary knitting elements: Needle: Latch needle, Spring bearded needle & Compound needle. Cam: Knit cam, Tuck Cam, Missed cam Sinker: Holding down sinker ...
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A Study of the Mechanism of Loop Formation on Weft-Knitting ...
An investigation of the mechanism of loop formation shows that the phenomenon of "robbing-back" is the fundamental factor influencing the size of the knitted ...
[31]
Mechanics of loop formation in plain weft knitting machinery
This chapter deals with the loop formation process on a circular single jersey knitting machine and is aimed for predicting loop length and yarn tension.
[32]
Knitting Stitch Formation Cycles - Textile School
At the beginning of the process, the needle is positioned on the knock-over plane with the loop thread inside the hook, closed by the latch.
[33]
Mechanics of loop formation in plain weft knitting machinery
Needles move vertically within the machine to form rows of loops, interconnecting yarn from subsequent rows [1] . As each row is knitted, the needles perform a ...
[34]
Warp Knitting Process - an overview | ScienceDirect Topics
A continuous series of knitting stitches is formed by needles catching yarns and drawing them through previously formed loops to form new loops. In a knitted ...
[35]
[PDF] Warp Knitting - Wks-cifra.com
In warp knitting, one or more yarns are fed to each needle and the stitches are made simultaneously, making this a very rapid process.
[36]
[PDF] zu "An introduction to the stitch formations in warp knitting"
The stitch Forming Elements and Knitting Action. 27 - 45 of Warp Knitting Machines with Bearded and. Latch Needles. 2) The Simple Stitch Formation in Warp ...
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Basic Principles of Weft vs. Warp Knitting - Textile School
Mar 8, 2025 · Weft knitting machines come in two major types: circular and flat knitting machines. Circular machines produce tubular fabrics, ideal for ...
[38]
Comparing Warp and Weft Knitting Techniques | Apex Mills
Nov 5, 2024 · For warp knits, the loops are formed down the length or warp direction; for weft knits, the loops are formed across the width or weft direction.
[39]
Weft Knitting – Textile manufacturing and testing
A knitting machine is an equipment for converting yarn into knitted loop structures by means of mechanical moving parts either manual or power operated.<|separator|>
[40]
[PDF] Knitting technology
Weft knitting machines ... • High speed machines (max 3500 courses/min). • Compound needles. • Clothing, technical textiles, home textiles. Raschel machines ...
[41]
List of Knitting Machines Used in Textile Industry & Their Features
Types of weft knitting machines: · Plain or single jersey circular knitting machine · Rib circular or flat knitting machine · Interlock circular knitting machine ...
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[PDF] Determination of Optimum Speed of a Knitting Machine by Analyzing ...
Jun 1, 2022 · The optimum speed for the knitting machine was found to be 40 rotations per minute.Missing: specifications | Show results with:specifications
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Knitting Machinery - an overview | ScienceDirect Topics
Knits are specified in g/m2, whereby fabrics from 50 g/m2 up to 500 g/m2 can be produced. Natural fibers like linen and hemp require a lower speed in knitting ...
[44]
The Main Mechanism and Working Principle of Warp Knitting Machine
Warp knitting forms fabric by looping yarns on needles. The machine includes mechanisms for knitting, guide bar, let-off, drawing, and coiling. The guide bar ...
[45]
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Dec 10, 2017 · Warp knitting is defined as a loop forming process in which yarn is fed into knitting zone , parallel to fabric selvedge . In warp knitting ...
[46]
Introduction to the principles of warp knitting (WKB) - Karl Mayer
Explore our various machine concepts and tailor-made solutions for warp knitting machines, technical textiles as well as warp preparation units for weaving and…Missing: types | Show results with:types
[47]
Tricot Machine - an overview | ScienceDirect Topics
Tricot machines refer to a type of warp knitting equipment that utilizes bearded or compound needles, primarily knitting continuous-filament yarns, and features ...
[48]
Tricot Machine Manufacturer & Supplier in China- A-ZEN Textile
Tricot warp knitting machine is different from raschel machines. The tricot machine feature is that it can run at high speeds over 2000rpm.
[49]
Raschel Machine - an overview | ScienceDirect Topics
The Raschel machine is a machine that relies on warp knits. As such, the warps are laid diagonally to form the fabric. Each warp is then twisted, locked with a ...
[50]
Features and Uses of the Raschel Warp Knitting Machine
Jan 4, 2016 · Raschel Warp Knitting Machine is used for lace fabric and trimmings. It is also used to produce in outdoors and military fabrics for products such as backpacks.<|control11|><|separator|>
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Raschel Warp Knitting Machine-Chenye
Professional Raschel Warp Knitting Machine Manufacturer In China Since 2000. Chenye offers customers different raschel warp knitting machines.
[52]
Machines - Thümling Textilmaschinen
Englishman Josiah Crane from Edmonton is credited as the inventor of the warp knitting machine today. He likely developed the warp knitting machine based on ...
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Nov 9, 2018 · In 1775, the first tricot warp knitting machine was invented by Cnane of the United Kingdom. In 1805, Joseph Jacquard of France invented the ...
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Tricot Warp Knitting Machine with 2 bars
Explore the tricot Warp Knitting Machine with carbon-fiber knitting elements, integrated monitoring, and superior yarn control.
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SPF-W Glove/Sock Knitting Machine | Product Lineup - Shima Seiki
Comfortable, stylish socks with seamless toes and heels. Knitting system: Sinker knitting system. Gauge: 10・13. Features: A Unique Niche Product.
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Medical Textiles - Lamb Knitting Machine Corporation
Lamb Knitting Machine Corporation designs custom equipment for medical textiles including stents, wound dressings and ear loop cords for surgical masks.
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Mar 8, 2025 · The article outlines how automatic socks knitting machines enhance production with speed, quality consistency, and flexibility, ...
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From Socks to Gloves to Scarves: How Modern Knitting Machines ...
Aug 13, 2025 · Sock Knitting Machines can handle plain, patterned, or 3D socks with high precision. Glove Knitting Machines offer high-speed production without ...
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Knitting Productivity Boost Guide | PDF - Scribd
a skilled hand knitter can produce only 120-150 stitches per minute. Until ... All knitting machine manufacturers recommend controlling environment in the ...
[60]
Knit Happens! Our Top Knitting Machine Reviews - Crochet Craze
Jun 2, 2025 · The Sentro 48-pin can produce a hat in just 30-40 minutes, while the Bond Ultimate Sweater Machine can knit up to 1,200 stitches per minute!<|separator|>
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Knitting Machines in 1955 - Needles of Steel
Mar 17, 2013 · 7000 stitches per minute on the 84 needle cylinder. Price varies ... knitting machine which I thought may have been semi-industrial. I ...
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Circular Knitting Machine - an overview | ScienceDirect Topics
In knitting machine technology, the basic system is the set of mechanical components that move the needles and allow the formation of the loop. The output rate ...
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[PDF] Energy-Efficiency Improvement Opportunities for the Textile Industry
Also, production speed is low for weaving yarn compared to that of knitting yarn. ... difference in parameters such as speed, waste ratio, mechanical efficiency ...
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Knitting Machine Guide, 10 Recommended Knitting Machines 2023
Mar 2, 2024 · The best knitting machine for home use, is the Addi Express Kingsize Knitting Machine. Create knitted fabric for scarves, cowls, hats, and flat sections.Missing: specialized | Show results with:specialized
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Artisan vs Industrial Knitting: Main Differences Explained
Flexibility in changing design patterns in the middle of a knitting session can be easily done with hand knitting than in machines. · Intricate designs can be ...
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Hand-Knitting vs. Knitting Machine: Pros and Cons
Apr 9, 2025 · This guide dives into the pros and cons of both approaches, allowing you to make an informed choice that aligns with your creative goals.
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What You Should Know Before Buying a Knitting Machine
Punchcard machines are only capable of reading a graph up to 24 stitches wide per row, which limits the design choices. Electronic machines may also have ...
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Understanding what knitting machines are capable of - Reddit
Oct 18, 2024 · You can make quite a bit with minimal seaming if you like top-down patterns and are okay with lots of short rowing, shaping, and rehanging. As ...Opinions on machine knitting for sweaters? - RedditCan I create complex patterns using a knitting machine? - RedditMore results from www.reddit.com
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Compare Hand Knitting to Machine Knitting
Nov 26, 2010 · If you have stitch tension problems when you hand knit, you will love the evenness of machine knitted fabric. The stick technique is good for ...
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The Difference Between Hand Knitting and Machine Knitting Yarns
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Problems and Limitations of Circular Knitting Machines
Aug 27, 2014 · The most important limitation of seamless knitting machines in circular form is the poor flexibility of these types of machine for producing ...
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Patents, the Foundation of Innovation 2nd - The Industrial Revolution
William Lee is first mentioned as the inventor of the knitting frame in a partnership agreement between himself and a George Brooke on 6 June 1600. Lee was ...
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Textiles Lace & Hosiery - The University of Nottingham
The mechanical knitting machine, known as framework knitting, prompted the shift from small home-based industry, with few if any records, to larger ...
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transition to the factory: - the english hosiery industry - jstor
and a significant number of stockingers continued to work hand- powered knitting frames into the 1880s when the putting-out system went into a sharp decline.
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The Life and Legacy of Framework Knitters in Britain | IHGS
Nov 13, 2024 · Emerging in the 16th century, this skilled trade blossomed as the knitting machine – also called the *stocking frame* – revolutionised the way ...
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Luddite Frame Breaking - Knitting Together
The first two decades of the nineteenth century saw a downturn in the knitting industry as fashion changes reduced demand for hosiery. Workers felt their ...
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Before AI skeptics, Luddites raged against the machine...literally
Aug 4, 2025 · “The Luddites were protesting the way that factory owners and early entrepreneurs were using technology to degrade their working conditions, ...<|control11|><|separator|>
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Sustainable History | 60th Anniversary Special Website - Shima Seiki
1978. SHIMA SEIKI's first computer-controlled flat knitting machine SNC is developed to support the expected change from mass production to small-lot, multiple ...
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Computers and Flat Bed Knitting Machines | PDF - Scribd
Nov 2, 2018 · Key points: - The first electronically controlled knitting machines were introduced in 1975 and could store design data while powered off. This ...
[82]
[PDF] Developing the most advanced technology and ... - Shima Seiki
1987. Opens the Tokyo Branch Office. 1988. Develops its long-anticipated next-generation computerized flat knitting machine, the SES® series.
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Recent developments in knitting technology - ScienceDirect.com
One of the most important recent innovations is the introduction of robotics into the flat knitting process. There are also adaptations to knitting machines ...
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Intelligent Automation in Knitting Manufacturing: Advanced Software ...
The automation of knitting processes enhances yarn management efficiency and reduces material waste, contributing to more sustainable manufacturing practices ...
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Aug 6, 2025 · This study investigates the integration of intelligent technologies in the knitting sector, focusing on industrial flat knitting machines from a leading ...
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3D Knitting Technology Advancements: Shaping Sustainable Textiles
Sep 13, 2025 · Discover how 3D knitting technology transforms textiles with seamless, sustainable, and customizable garments, reducing waste and ...Missing: companies | Show results with:companies
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3D Knitting: Structures, Techniques and Applications - Textile Learner
Aug 2, 2025 · 3D knitting is a revolutionary method in textile manufacturing where a three-dimensional shape is created directly on the knitting machine.
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The Future of Garment Production: 3D Knitting - Fashion Takes Action
Aug 28, 2023 · In 1995, the seamless wholegarment knitting machine was developed by Shima Seiki, a Japanese company. It specialized in creating whole ...
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WHOLEGARMENT - Shima Seiki
WHOLEGARMENT® products are knit in three dimensions without seams, offering benefits never before found in any other type of garment. WHOLEGARMENT Business.
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Shima Seiki Sets Sights on Sustainable Fashion | Nippon.com
Aug 3, 2023 · The Wholegarment flat knitting machine was invented by Wakayama-based Shima Seiki. The founder grew his business from nothing in the ashes of ...
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WHOLEGARMENT Knitting Technology Sustainable
Aug 16, 2025 · WHOLEGARMENT knitting technology by Shima Seiki creates seamless garments in one piece, offering better fit, less waste, faster production.<|separator|>
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Knitting Machines | Product | SHIMA SEIKI
WHOLEGARMENT. WHOLEGARMENT is innovative knitwear produced in one entire piece, without the need for sewing. Find out how you can realize sustainable ...Wholegarment · SHIMA KnitManager · Product Lineup · Client Testimonial
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Revolutionizing Textile And Apparel Manufacturing Through ...
Apr 21, 2024 · This paper investigates the revolutionization of textile and apparel manufacturing through digitization and advanced garment design solutions.
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Knitting Innovations | Textile World
Sep 27, 2023 · Italy-based Mandarin Knitting Technology S.r.l. unveiled an array of advanced computerized flat knit-ting machines, featuring its unique “ ...
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3D Knitting Machines Market Analysis Report - 2035
Jul 29, 2025 · 3D Knitting Machines Market was worth USD 1.4 billion in 2025, and is predicted to grow to USD 2.4 billion by 2035, with a CAGR of 5.6%.
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Seamless Knitting Technology: The Future Of Performance Apparel
Apr 15, 2025 · Seamless knitting is revolutionizing how we design and manufacture clothing. ... 3D help designers visualize seamless garments before production.
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Making Production Processes in Textile‐Based Industries More ...
Jul 7, 2025 · This study explores the transformative potential of 3D knitting technology in enhancing the sustainability of textile-based industries.Introduction · Literature Review · Research Methodology · Discussion<|control11|><|separator|>
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Knit one, purl 1000: meet the Shima Seiki knitting machine
Aug 14, 2023 · This computerised seamless knitting machine is among the most advanced of its kind on the market. And now, it's coming to UTS.
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Circular Knitting in the Textile Industry: Performance Fabrics
Sep 20, 2024 · They consume less power and water, making the overall manufacturing process more environmentally friendly.
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Knitting towards sustainability, circular economy and Industry 4.0
Jan 31, 2023 · Global industrial knitting machine consumption is expected to grow at a compound annual growth rate (CAGR) of 3.5% between 2022 and 2032. ...
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Knitting Industry Embraces Sustainability: Innovations Shaping the ...
1. Recycled Yarns and Fabrics: One of the key innovations in sustainable knitting is the use of recycled materials. Recycled yarns made from post-consumer ...
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Innovation in Knitwear: Technology Meets Tradition - CH Cashmere
Mar 19, 2024 · For example, new dyeing technologies use less water and energy, while biodegradable yarns are becoming more prevalent.
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