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Repossi

Repossi is a jewelry house specializing in high jewelry and fine jewelry, founded in 1957 in , , by Costantino Repossi, who drew inspiration from and to create elegant, sculptural pieces. The maison has remained family-owned across three generations, with second-generation leader Alberto Repossi expanding its presence internationally, including openings in in 1978 and on Paris's prestigious in 1986, where it established its flagship boutique. Under the creative direction of third-generation designer Gaia Repossi since 2007, the brand has gained acclaim for its aesthetic, blending , , and innovative craftsmanship, particularly through the iconic Serti sur Vide technique introduced in 2014, which features diamonds appearing to float without visible settings. Repossi's collections, handcrafted in and using exceptional gemstones such as diamonds, emeralds, and sapphires, emphasize and timeless elegance, with notable lines including Antifer and Berbère that reimagine traditional forms in contemporary styles. In 2015, acquired a minority stake in Repossi to support its global distribution and growth, followed by a majority stake in 2018, integrating the maison into the luxury conglomerate's portfolio of prestigious jewelry brands while preserving its independent family heritage.

History

Founding and Early Development

Repossi was founded in 1957 in , , by Costantino Repossi, an who had previously worked as a for and developed a deep passion for aesthetics. After studying , Costantino opened the maison's first in , laying the groundwork for a family-run jewelry house dedicated to innovative craftsmanship. This founding marked the beginning of Repossi's commitment to blending industrial precision with artistic elegance in jewelry making. In its early years, the focused on crafting jewelry pieces tailored to the preferences of local clientele, operating within a intimate family workshop setting that emphasized meticulous handcraftsmanship. Costantino's designs prioritized quality materials and custom fabrication, allowing clients to commission unique items that reflected personal stories and styles. The initial product range centered on engagement rings and fine jewelry, primarily utilizing and to create elegant, timeless pieces that highlighted the maison's emerging expertise in gem setting and metalwork. Through these bespoke offerings, Repossi quickly established a strong reputation in as a trusted for high-quality, artisanal jewelry during the economic recovery period. The workshop's dedication to precision and innovation in a local context fostered loyal patronage among 's affluent families, solidifying the brand's foundational identity. By the early 1970s, as Costantino prepared for succession, his son began collaborating closely with him, eventually taking leadership in 1974 to guide the maison forward.

Family Succession and Expansion

Following the founding of Repossi in Turin by Costantino Repossi in 1957, his son Alberto Repossi assumed leadership of the family business in 1974, redirecting its efforts toward high-end luxury jewelry markets with an emphasis on exceptional gemstones and innovative craftsmanship. Under Alberto's guidance, the maison evolved from a local into a purveyor of pieces appealing to affluent international clientele, leveraging his expertise in sourcing rare diamonds and colored stones to elevate the brand's prestige. This strategic pivot marked the beginning of Repossi's transition to a global luxury entity, building on the founder's roots while prioritizing opulent, one-of-a-kind creations. A pivotal expansion occurred in 1978 when Alberto opened the maison's first international boutique in , , strategically positioning Repossi to serve high-net-worth individuals in a hub of European glamour and royalty. This move diversified the brand beyond and laid the groundwork for its association with the Monegasque elite. In 1994, Repossi was appointed as the official purveyor to Prince Rainier III, fostering commissions for ceremonial and personal pieces that underscored the maison's growing reputation for discretion and excellence among elite circles. The boutique's focus on custom high jewelry, including diamond-centric designs inspired by ancient motifs, attracted a sophisticated clientele and laid the groundwork for further international outreach. In 1986, Repossi cemented its status in the world of haute joaillerie by establishing a flagship boutique at 6 in , the epicenter of global luxury, where the maison showcased its evolving collections in a historic setting that amplified its artistic and commercial ambitions. This location, opened under Alberto's direction, symbolized the brand's maturation into a key player on the international stage, with displays emphasizing sculptural forms and invisible settings that blended heritage with elegance. The Paris outpost quickly became a destination for collectors seeking pieces that fused technical innovation with timeless appeal, further solidifying Repossi's expansion trajectory. Repossi's visibility surged in 1997 when Alberto's Monte Carlo boutique supplied an from its "Dis-Moi Oui" collection to Dodi Fayed for Princess Diana, a high-profile transaction that drew worldwide media attention and enhanced the brand's allure among celebrities and . The ring, featuring a central flanked by baguettes in yellow gold, was selected during a private visit and resized in , underscoring Repossi's reputation for personalized service to prominent figures despite the tragic circumstances that followed. This event propelled the maison into broader public consciousness, boosting demand for its signature styles and affirming its position as a discreet yet coveted name in luxury jewelry. The family legacy continued into the third generation with the appointment of Alberto's daughter, Gaia Repossi, as in 2007 at age 21, infusing the brand with contemporary sensibilities while honoring its foundational techniques. Gaia's debut collection, Serti Sur Vide, introduced groundbreaking invisible settings that allowed diamonds to appear suspended in air, modernizing Repossi's aesthetic without departing from the gemstone expertise pioneered by her predecessors. Her leadership bridged tradition and innovation, expanding the maison's appeal to a younger, fashion-forward audience while maintaining the intimate, family-driven that had driven its growth.

Acquisition by LVMH and Recent Developments

In 2015, Moët Hennessy acquired a minority stake in Repossi, marking the beginning of a that provided the Italian jewelry with enhanced resources to accelerate its global expansion and . This investment supported Repossi's efforts to scale its operations while preserving its family-owned heritage and creative independence. By April 2018, increased its ownership to 69 percent, transitioning Repossi into a majority-controlled entity within the luxury conglomerate's portfolio and further bolstering its infrastructure for international growth. This move solidified corporate support for Repossi's evolution, enabling targeted investments in retail and market presence, all while the Repossi family retained significant influence over design and operations. A key milestone in this expansion came in July 2018 with the opening of Repossi's first standalone boutique in the at The Dubai Mall's Fashion Avenue extension, representing the brand's third global outpost and a deliberate push into high-growth luxury markets. The 80-square-meter space, inspired by Repossi's flagship, featured minimalist architecture with white marble and oak elements, showcasing collections like the Antifer and Serti Mystérieux in a serene, gallery-like environment. In 2021, Repossi unveiled a redesigned boutique in Monaco's Carré d'Or district, crafted by architect Flavin Judd of the Judd Foundation, to elevate its retail experience with a focus on and artistic integration. Relocating from its historic Monte-Carlo site, the 120-square-meter store incorporates Judd's signature use of raw materials—such as wood panels, colored glass vitrines in mint and amber tones, and exposed concrete—to create an immersive space that echoes Repossi's geometric jewelry aesthetic and ties into its longstanding connection to the . This revamp not only refreshed the brand's presence in a core market but also underscored LVMH's role in fostering innovative, culturally resonant store designs post-acquisition. In December 2024, Repossi opened its first boutique in , marking further expansion in the and strengthening its global retail footprint. In July 2025, the maison launched the high jewelry collection, expanding its design language with influences from volume, , and heritage.

Design Philosophy and Style

Signature Techniques and Innovations

Repossi's signature "serti sur vide" (setting on void) technique represents a groundbreaking approach to invisible diamond settings, enabling gems to appear as if floating weightlessly without visible prongs or mounts. This method employs a concealed structural framework, often likened to an "" support system, which integrates flexible cables and precise engineering to hold stones in place while maximizing their brilliance and movement. Developed to reinterpret traditional solitaire designs, the technique allows to follow the body's natural contours, such as curving around the ear or finger, creating an illusion of that emphasizes the purity of the gem itself. The house's use of sculptural forms draws heavily from modern art influences, blending industrial design principles with fine jewelry craftsmanship, a foundation laid by Costantino Repossi. With a background in industrial design from his time as a designer for FIAT, Costantino infused Repossi's early pieces with geometric precision and volumetric boldness, transforming jewelry into architectural statements that echo Art Deco aesthetics and avant-garde sculpture. This approach prioritizes clean lines and structural integrity, where pieces function as wearable art forms that balance technical innovation with organic flow, often evoking the minimalism of artists like Constantin Brâncuși. Central to Repossi's minimalist aesthetic is the selection of high-quality materials such as 18-karat , exceptional , and alternative gems like emeralds, crafted into , architectural designs that prioritize comfort and versatility. These elements combine to produce pieces that are both and enduring, with the gold's subtle sheen complementing the gems' natural without overwhelming the form. Since 2007, Gaia Repossi has evolved these techniques, refining the scale and adaptability of the designs for contemporary wear.

Notable Collections and Collaborations

Repossi's signature collections, such as and Antifer, exemplify the brand's emphasis on geometric and chain-link designs that evoke architectural precision and versatility. The line draws inspiration from the multi-line tattoos of the , featuring repetitive minimalist gold lines that function as a "second skin," available in pieces like rings, earrings, and pendants often accented with chromatic lacquer in hues such as or olive green. Similarly, the Antifer collection reinterprets classic forms through asymmetrical compositions of rounded and pointed elements, incorporating chain-link bracelets and multi-row rings that blend subtlety with bold structure. The house's high jewelry lines further showcase this innovative approach by reinterpreting traditional motifs through contemporary , merging primitive aesthetics with influences in handcrafted pieces from and . Collections like Serti sur Vide serve as a foundational element, employing the brand's signature "serti sur vide" technique to create floating diamond settings that appear suspended in airy, sculptural forms, transforming conventional solitaire designs into statements. In recent years, Repossi has continued to expand its collections, introducing the high jewelry line in 2023, which explores concepts of fullness and movement through bold, recognizable forms inspired by ancient arts and . The Antifer collection received a chromatic update in 2024, incorporating colored stones like and for added vibrancy, while the Serti sur Vide technique marked its 10th anniversary with an emerald-focused high jewelry campaign. Repossi's artistic partnerships have amplified its cultural resonance, particularly through collaborations with Viviane Sassen, who has shaped the brand's visual identity via editorial campaigns and imagery that fuse with artistic techniques. Additionally, the house has presented collections at , integrating art-world contexts; for instance, the 2016 Agrafe line, inspired by staple motifs, was unveiled at the gallery's space during , highlighting jewelry's dialogue with contemporary . More recently, in 2024, Repossi sponsored the exhibition at the , drawing parallels between the artist's revolutionary minimalism and the maison's designs, particularly in the Serti sur Vide collection's play of fullness and void. These efforts culminated in recognition for Gaia Repossi, who won the "Best Jewellery Designer" award at the 2013 Elle Style Awards, honoring the innovative spirit of collections that push luxury jewelry boundaries.

Business Operations

Boutiques and Global Presence

Repossi's flagship boutique is located at 6 in , where it first opened in 1986 as a dedicated space for high jewelry. The store underwent a significant redesign in 2016 by architect and his firm OMA, transforming it into a modern, gallery-like environment spanning 90 square meters and divided into three distinct zones: a street-level area, a gallery for displaying collections, and an intimate salon. This layout employs materials such as brushed aluminum, flooring, and tinted mirrors to blend high-tech elements with a sense of architectural synthesis, positioning the space as a stage for the brand's jewelry. The brand maintains a select physical presence in key luxury destinations, beginning with its historic boutique in Monte-Carlo, , which opened in 1978 along the promenade. This location was comprehensively redesigned and reopened in 2021 by architect Flavin Judd of the Foundation, introducing a minimalist aesthetic with bold layouts, repetitive forms, and subtle color accents like mint displays to highlight the jewelry's sculptural qualities. In 2018, Repossi expanded to the with a boutique in The Dubai Mall's Fashion Avenue extension, its third standalone store worldwide, designed to echo the Parisian flagship's elegant minimalism while catering to the region's luxury market. In late 2024 and 2025, Repossi further expanded in the , opening new boutiques in , , and in Dhabi's Mall, , alongside the renovation and reopening of its boutique in November 2025. Repossi's boutique strategy emphasizes collaborations with prominent architects to create immersive, non-traditional retail environments that integrate art installations and minimalist , aligning with the maison's fusion of jewelry, , and design heritage. These spaces prioritize , spatial innovation, and artistic expression—such as Judd's repetitive motifs or Koolhaas's zoned —to elevate the jewelry as rather than mere merchandise. Supported by LVMH's resources following its majority acquisition in , this approach has facilitated targeted expansions in high-profile global locations.

Ownership and Leadership

Since 2019, has held a 69% majority stake in Repossi, following an initial minority investment of 42% in 2015. The Repossi family retains the remaining 31% ownership, ensuring significant ongoing control and influence over the brand's direction. Gaia Repossi, a third-generation family member, has served as since 2007, when she assumed the role at age 21 to guide the house's artistic vision and design evolution. Her leadership emphasizes innovative, sculptural jewelry that blends family heritage with contemporary aesthetics, while other family members contribute to strategic oversight. Repossi's headquarters are located in , , facilitating its integration within the LVMH portfolio, with key operational roots in —where the brand originated—and a global footprint supporting international expansion.

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