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Cumae

Cumae was the first established on the Italian mainland, founded around 750 BC by Euboean settlers from and other cities in , located on the western coast of near the modern city of . As a key hub in the colonization of , it served as a vital and cultural bridge between settlers and local Italic populations, facilitating the exchange of goods, technologies, and traditions such as the Chalcidian , which influenced Etruscan and Latin scripts. The city was particularly renowned for the , a prophetic priestess of Apollo whose , housed in an underground gallery known as the Sibyl's Cave, drew famous visitors including the legendary in Virgil's and influenced Roman religious practices through the . Cumae's strategic position on the enabled its rapid growth into a prosperous urban center by the , with archaeological evidence from sites like the , necropoleis, and sanctuaries revealing planned settlements, elite burials blending and Italic elements, and artifacts including , iron weapons, and inscriptions that underscore its economic and social vitality. It played a foundational role in western expansion, founding daughter colonies such as Neapolis (modern ) around 600 BC and Dicaearchia (Puteoli, now ) around 525 BC, while withstanding major threats like the Etruscan siege of 524 BC and achieving a naval victory over the Etruscans at Cumae in 474 BC with Syracusan aid. However, its independence ended with conquest by Oscan-speaking Campanians in 421 BC, leading to a gradual decline in dominance as the city adopted Oscan and later Latin influences under incorporation into the federation in 338 BC. During the Roman Imperial period, Cumae experienced a resurgence in prosperity through agriculture, commerce, and monumental construction, including restorations under such as the Temple of Apollo and the Crypta Romana tunnel, though it eventually faded as a political center by , with structures repurposed for Christian use. Today, the site of Cumae forms a major archaeological park in , , preserving ruins of the , temples to Apollo and (later a ), the Sibyl's , and extensive necropoleis, offering insights into over a millennium of Greco-Roman and Italic history through ongoing excavations since the 19th century.

Geography

Location and Topography

Cumae is situated at 40°50′55″N 14°3′13″E along the northern coast of the Bay of Naples in , approximately 25 kilometers west of modern . The site lies within the (Campi Flegrei), a large volcanic complex spanning about 13 kilometers in width, characterized by nested craters and active geothermal features. To the east, across the bay, rises prominently, while , a roughly 1 kilometer in diameter, borders the site to the west, enhancing its strategic coastal position. The of Cumae centers on a prominent perched atop a hill, elevating the upper city to approximately 45 meters above and offering panoramic oversight of the surrounding and . This hill, formed from volcanic deposits such as the Neapolitan Yellow (dated to around 15,000 years ago) and older layers (about 39,000 years ago), features steep slopes and natural fractures that contributed to its defensibility. The lower city sprawls across the adjacent , a flatter expanse of sediments, facilitating access to the harbor while remaining sheltered by the hill's prominence. The Phlegraean Fields' volcanic geology profoundly influenced Cumae's site selection, providing rugged terrain with sheer cliffs and lava domes that served as inherent barriers against intrusion, augmented by the marshy, isolated expanse of to the rear. This environment not only bolstered defensibility through limited land access routes but also supplied abundant local resources, particularly the soft yet durable , which was quarried directly from the hill for constructing walls, tunnels, and buildings. The interplay of uplift, , and fracture networks in the further shaped the landscape, creating a network of cavities and ridges integral to the site's layout.

Modern Context

Cumae was abandoned in 1207 AD after its destruction by the army of the under Goffredo of Montefuscolo, leading to the site's absorption into the of Aversa and remaining uninhabited thereafter. The ruins lay largely forgotten until systematic archaeological excavations commenced in the mid-19th century, marking the site's rediscovery and initial scholarly attention. Today, the site is managed by the Direzione Regionale per i Beni Culturali e Paesaggistici della as part of the broader Archaeological Park, established in 1927 to encompass the ancient and surrounding areas. Preservation efforts focus on structural stabilization and environmental monitoring, including rockfall mitigation on the western slope of Cumae's to safeguard against volcanic and seismic risks inherent to the . The park integrates into contemporary as a key cultural asset, located approximately 25 km northwest of and accessible via public transport or car. It draws significant tourism, with visitor numbers contributing to the regional total of over 50 million annual admissions to Italian archaeological sites and museums as of 2018, emphasizing Cumae's role in educational and leisure itineraries exploring heritage. Ongoing restorations, such as those enhancing seismic resilience through surveys and protective interventions post-2010s unrest in the area, ensure the site's accessibility and longevity.

History

Foundation and Early Greek Colonization

Cumae was established as the earliest colony on the Italian mainland around 750 BCE by from the Euboean cities of and possibly , led by oikists from and Hippocles from Cyme in Minor. The site, previously occupied by indigenous Opicians, was strategically chosen for its natural defenses on a coastal and proximity to the fertile Campanian plain, serving as an extension of the nearby trading outpost at Pithecusae (modern ). As a Chalcidian foundation, Cumae quickly asserted maritime dominance in the Bay of , facilitating further colonial expansion; at an early stage, Cumaean pirates established Zancle (modern ) in , marking it as a mother-city. Later, during the late 6th century BCE, Cumae founded Neapolis (modern ) along the bay's central coastline and Dicaearchia (modern ) around 525 BCE to consolidate its regional influence. The colony's early prosperity stemmed from its agricultural base in the exceptionally fertile Campanian plain, which supported cultivation of cereals and olives, alongside , yielding surpluses for local consumption and export. further bolstered economic growth, with Cumae acting as a key intermediary in the metal trade between Euboean s and Etruscan sources of iron, copper, and other ores from and . pottery production and exchange also flourished, as evidenced by the widespread distribution of Chalcidian-style wares across the western Mediterranean, reflecting Cumae's role in cultural and economic networks. By the BCE, the population had expanded significantly through and of local Opicians, supporting urban development and military capabilities. Key events in Cumae's history underscored its military and political prominence. In 524 BCE, Cumaean forces decisively defeated an Etruscan invasion near the city, halting Tyrrhenian expansion southward and securing (Dion. Hal. Ant. Rom. 7.3.1–4.5). A second victory followed in 474 BCE, when Cumae, allied with Hieron I of Syracuse, crushed a combined Etruscan fleet off the coast, further weakening Etruscan naval power in the (Diod. Sic. 11.51.1–2). Amid this era of success, internal strife led to the rise of as tyrant around 504 BCE; after emerging as a in the Etruscan wars, he seized power by eliminating rival aristocrats and ruled until his death circa 485/484 BCE (Dion. Hal. Ant. Rom. 7.10.1–11.4). Under , Cumae experienced cultural and architectural flourishing, with enhanced influences in , , and , solidifying its status as a vibrant center of .

Samnite and Roman Periods

In 421 BCE, the Greek colony of Cumae was conquered by the Campanians, an Oscan-speaking people associated with the , following their seizure of the Etruscan city of in 423 BCE. This marked a significant political shift, as the imposed their control over the region, leading to a linguistic transition where Oscan replaced Greek as the dominant language in inscriptions and daily use. Despite this change, Cumae retained strong elements of its Hellenized culture, preserving Greek-rooted religious cults, artistic traditions, and urban practices amid the Italic overlay. Cumae's relationship with Rome evolved through alliances and gradual integration during the late . After the (340–338 BCE), Rome subjected Cumae to its authority, granting the city civitas sine suffragio—citizenship without voting rights—which tied it to administration while allowing local in internal affairs. This partial status persisted until the Social War (91–88 BCE), when Cumae, along with other communities, received full (civitas optimo iure), fully incorporating it into the civic framework and aligning its political fate with the expanding . The imperial era brought prosperity to Cumae under Roman patronage, particularly during the reign of , who maintained close ties to the Bay of Naples region, including ownership of a villa at nearby within Cumae's territorial influence. This favoritism facilitated major infrastructure projects, such as the Aqua Augusta aqueduct, constructed around 20 BCE to supply fresh water to Cumae, Puteoli, and the at Misenum, enhancing and economic . Later, under in 95 CE, the Via Domitiana was built, connecting Cumae directly to the Via Appia from Sinuessa and improving overland trade routes to the ports of Puteoli and Cumae itself. These developments underscored Cumae's role as a key nodal point in the imperial network, sustaining its importance despite shifting regional dynamics.

Late Antiquity and Decline

In the 4th and 5th centuries CE, Cumae faced significant challenges from barbarian incursions that destabilized the and its Italian territories. The under King invaded and sacked in 410 CE, creating widespread disruption in and contributing to the economic strain on coastal cities like Cumae. Similarly, the , led by King , conducted devastating raids across , including the sack of in 455 CE, which exacerbated the decline of urban centers in the region through plunder and population displacement. Amid these upheavals, Cumae saw a gradual shift from its renowned pagan religious sites—particularly the of the —to emerging Christian centers, reflecting the broader empire-wide decline of paganism under Christian emperors like . The 6th century brought further turmoil through the between the and the . In 536 CE, general captured Cumae as part of Emperor Justinian I's reconquest of , fortifying the as a strategic stronghold. The city briefly fell to the Ostrogothic king in 542 CE but was recaptured by forces under in 553 CE, where the general discovered a significant portion of the Gothic treasury hidden within its walls. Following the reconquest, the invasions beginning in 568 CE under King further weakened Cumae, as the Germanic overran much of , reducing its population and transforming it into a peripheral settlement overshadowed by nearby . By the early medieval period, Cumae's decline accelerated due to environmental factors and ongoing threats. The silting of its harbor and the formation of coastal marshes fostered outbreaks, which severely depopulated the area as residents succumbed to the disease or fled inland. Saracen raids in the compounded these issues, leaving the site sparsely inhabited and vulnerable. The city's final destruction occurred in 1207 CE, when Neapolitan forces, acting amid regional power struggles involving Frederick II, sacked Cumae—then a —and razed its walls, leading to permanent abandonment. Its territory was subsequently incorporated into the of Aversa.

Religious History

Pagan Worship and Oracles

Cumae's pre-Christian religious landscape was dominated by the cult of Apollo, whose temple on the acropolis served as a focal point for civic worship from the Archaic period onward. Constructed in the late 7th or early 6th century BCE, the original temple featured Doric architectural elements, including a peristyle of tuff blocks quarried locally from the volcanic terrain, reflecting the Greek colonists' adaptation to the Campanian environment. This structure, measuring approximately 34 by 16 meters, underwent multiple renovations, with foundations and column bases surviving to indicate a peripteral layout typical of early Western Greek sanctuaries. The temple functioned as the primary site for communal rituals, including sacrifices and festivals honoring Apollo as protector of the colony, integrating oracular consultation into public decision-making processes. The Apollo cult at Cumae incorporated prophetic traditions distinct from the legendary Sibylline figure, emphasizing direct oracular responses attributed to the god himself during ecstatic rituals. Priests or priestesses likely delivered these non-Sibylline prophecies in the temple's or adjacent sacred spaces, drawing on Apollo's established role as a of in Greek colonial contexts. Archaeological evidence, such as terracotta votives depicting prophetic scenes and inscribed dedications invoking Apollo's foresight, supports the integration of oracular practices into daily religious life from the BCE. These consultations addressed matters of state, , and warfare, underscoring Apollo's prominence in maintaining the colony's and against local Italic threats. Complementing the Apollonian focus, Cumae hosted sanctuaries dedicated to and Kore, reflecting the agricultural concerns of its settlers. These sites, located in the and extramural areas, yielded numerous votive offerings from the 6th to 4th centuries BCE, including terracotta figurines of the goddesses, miniature altars, and fragments depicting . Inscriptions on stone bases and metal dedications, often in Euboean dialect, record vows for bountiful harvests and safe , indicating women's prominent role in these mystery-influenced cults. The sanctuaries featured simple altars and deposition pits for grain and animal remains, emphasizing aspects of Demeter's domain without elaborate structures. Chthonic worship near Cumae extended to ritual sites around , approximately 5 kilometers west of the city, where the volcanic crater's sulfurous fumes evoked associations. From the 6th century BCE, these locations served as venues for necromantic rituals and offerings to and other earth deities, involving libations and animal sacrifices in natural grottos and shoreline altars. Literary and epigraphic evidence, including references in Pseudo-Scymnus to an underground called Kerberion, highlights the site's role in consulting , distinct from Apollonian but intertwined with broader pagan practices. Votive deposits of lamps, coins, and biers from this period confirm ongoing use for funerary and initiatory ceremonies, reinforcing Cumae's reputation as a liminal zone between the living and divine realms.

Christian Era and Bishopric

The transition to in Cumae occurred during the late period, with the establishment of a bishopric around 450 as part of the of . This development reflected the broader of following the in 313 and the increasing influence of the Church in former pagan centers. By the mid-5th century, Cumae had become an important Christian site, with early churches repurposing structures from its Greco-Roman past. The first historically attested of Cumae was , who participated in the Roman synod of 499 CE convened by to address disputes and affirm papal authority. Subsequent resident played active roles in regional synods and councils, contributing to the administration of the faith amid invasions and Byzantine reconquests. Notable figures include Stephanus, documented in 649 CE at the Lateran Synod under , and Proculus, who attended the Third Council of in 680–681 CE, where he subscribed to decrees condemning . Other , such as II in the , are recorded in papal addressing local church governance and property disputes. The last known resident dates to the , after which the see declined due to the city's diminishing population and strategic importance. The of Cumae was nominally suppressed in 1053, with its territory merged into the Diocese of Aversa following the suppression of the neighboring Diocese of Atella. However, the formal end came in 1207, when the city was destroyed by the forces of the , leading to the complete absorption of its ecclesiastical lands into Aversa. Thereafter, the Archbishops of assumed the title of of Cumae as an honorary adjunct. In 1970, the revived Cumae as a Latin , assigned to bishops serving in other capacities without a residential . Early modern incumbents included Louis-Marie-Joseph de Courrèges d'Ustou, appointed on September 2, 1970, and serving briefly until December 10 of that year, and Edoardo Pecoraio, appointed as on December 28, 1971, and holding the title until his death in 1986. Subsequent holders have included figures such as José Manuel Estepa Llaurens (1998–2021) and the current incumbent, Julio María Elías Montoya, O.F.M., appointed on 17 November 1986 and remaining in the role as of 2025. This titular status preserves Cumae's ecclesiastical legacy in the Roman Catholic hierarchy.

Urban Development

City Layout and Fortifications

The of ancient Cumae, situated on a prominent hilltop overlooking the , formed the upper city and served as a key defensive stronghold, housing temples and elite residences within its fortified enclosure. The acropolis walls, constructed primarily from local blocks, enclosed both the hill and its southern spur, providing natural and artificial defenses against invaders from the early phases of Greek colonization. These fortifications were integral to the city's , separating the elevated sacred and administrative core from the expanding lower town below. The extended from the toward the harbors, incorporating residential quarters, , and areas for commerce, with direct access to the sea facilitating trade and naval operations. Archaeological surveys reveal that the lower city's defenses included ramparts along the slopes and a surveyed area of approximately 0.24 square kilometers, encompassing key urban features like Roman-era roads and the . During the , the lower city saw significant expansion, with more structured residential layouts adapting to the terrain while maintaining connectivity to the upper . Cumae's fortifications evolved over centuries, beginning with Greek-era constructions featuring polygonal and terraced ramparts for enhanced defense. The northern section of the walls exhibits at least five distinct building phases spanning the 6th to 1st centuries BCE, reflecting adaptations to threats from , Oscans, and later . In the period, these walls were reinforced with added towers and integrated into a broader circuit that protected the growing urban expanse, incorporating elements like bastions rebuilt in later Byzantine times for continued strategic use.

Infrastructure and Monuments

The Arco Felice, a prominent , was constructed in the late under Emperor around 95 as part of infrastructure enhancements in . Standing approximately 20 meters high, it spans the Via Domitiana, the key road linking to , with an opening of about 7 meters; the arch facilitated access to Cumae by bridging a cutting through Monte Grillo excavated by in 95 to improve road access. The Crypta Romana, a sophisticated 1st-century BCE tunnel, exemplifies Augustan-era feats, measuring roughly 300 meters in length and connecting Cumae's inland lake to the . Carved into the limestone base of the , it served dual purposes of to mitigate flooding in the marshy and as a vital access route linking the port to the city's forum, enhancing military logistics during Augustus's campaigns. The structure features opus vittatum masonry in its forecourt, niches for statuary, and associated cisterns with a combined capacity exceeding 35,000 cubic meters fed by aqueducts, demonstrating advanced hydraulic management; it remained in use until the CE before repurposing for burials. Cumae's Roman public infrastructure included the Forum Baths (Terme del Foro), a central bathing complex integrated into the lower city's civic core during the Imperial period, supplied by the Augustan Aqueduct of Serino and local cisterns holding up to 525 cubic meters for thermal operations. Outlines of a amphitheater, dating to the 1st-2nd centuries , have been traced south of the , indicating a venue for spectacles accommodating several thousand spectators, though largely subterranean and overgrown today. On the , a medieval —known as a castrum—utilized ancient ruins for fortifications from the Byzantine era onward, incorporating a tower for defense amid the site's decline into a stronghold with dwellings and churches until the .

Archaeology

Excavation History

The first recorded archaeological excavations at Cumae occurred in , uncovering thirteen statues and two marble bas-reliefs from the site's ancient layers. In the , efforts intensified under the patronage of the rulers of the Two Sicilies, with Prince Leopold, Count of Syracuse and brother to King Ferdinand II, directing systematic digs from 1852 to 1857 in the Masseria del Gigante area and surrounding necropoleis, which helped reveal elements of the . Further work in the late , led by archaeologist Emilio Stevens from 1878 to 1893, targeted the necropolises, though these were hampered by looting due to the high value of uncovered items. Entering the 20th century, Italian authorities oversaw major excavations on the starting in 1911, which brought to light the Temple of Apollo. In the mid-20th century, from 1938 to 1953, more systematic surveys focused on the , elucidating its urban layout, while between 1924 and 1934, archaeologists Amedeo Maiuri and Vittorio Spinazzola extended explorations to key structures including the Temple of , the Cave of the , and the Crypta Romana. Later projects in the 1990s, such as the "Kyme" initiative starting in 1994, completed earlier unfinished work on tombs and revealed additional Roman features. In recent decades, international collaborations have advanced the site's study, with the French National Centre for Scientific Research (CNRS) leading excavations since 2001 in a dating from the 6th to 1st centuries BCE outside the Porta Mediana, unearthing hundreds of sepulchres and chambers. These ongoing French-Italian efforts, involving institutions like the École française de Rome, culminated in the 2018 discovery of a painted tomb from the 2nd century BCE during work.

Key Discoveries and Artifacts

One of the most iconic discoveries at Cumae is the Cave of the Sibyl, a subterranean tunnel complex dating to around 500 BCE and measuring approximately 130 meters in length, carved into the rock of the . This trapezoidal passageway, with its sloping walls and multiple openings, was constructed to facilitate oracular consultations by the , a priestess associated with Apollo. Acoustic studies reveal that the cave's design enhances sound propagation, allowing a voice from the inner chamber to echo dramatically through the tunnel, which likely amplified the prophetic experience for ancient visitors. The walls preserve graffiti, including inscriptions invoking the , attesting to its prolonged ritual use from the onward. Excavations at the Temple of Apollo on the have yielded significant sculptures. Later Roman-era finds from the site include 1st-century marble portrait heads, such as those of imperial figures or local elites, showcasing refined Hellenistic influences in portraiture. Among other notable artifacts, a 2nd-century BCE painted tomb uncovered in 2018 stands out for its well-preserved frescoes depicting banquet scenes, including a nude servant carrying a wine and vase, alongside kraters, amphorae, and landscape elements on walls. This rare example of funerary art suggests the high social status of its occupants and echoes earlier Hellenistic styles, providing evidence of cultural continuity in Cumae's . The broader yields spanning the 8th to 3rd centuries BCE, containing imported and local such as Geometric and Proto-Corinthian vessels, which illustrate networks and the colony's Euboean origins.

Cultural Legacy

Mythological Role

In Greco-Roman mythology, Cumae held a prominent position as the home of the Cumaean Sibyl, a prophetic priestess of Apollo known as Deiphobe, who served as the oracle at the ancient Greek colony. According to Virgil's Aeneid (Book 6), Deiphobe guided the Trojan hero Aeneas to the underworld, providing him with prophecies and instructions for his descent to consult the spirit of his father Anchises. She advised Aeneas to pluck the golden bough from a sacred grove near Cumae as a prerequisite for entry and led him through ritual preparations, emphasizing her role as an intermediary between the mortal world and divine realms. The region's mythological significance extended to its associations with the , particularly through (Lacus Avernus), a near Cumae renowned for its mephitic vapors that were said to kill birds and render the area birdless—hence its name, derived from aornos meaning "without birds." In Virgil's narrative, this lake served as the primary entrance to , where and the entered via a cavernous portal after performing sacrifices, encountering mythical figures and the souls of the dead along the way. The site's aura also linked it to other heroic myths; ancient sources, including the historian Ephorus, described as an access point to the used by during his twelfth labor to capture , the multi-headed guard dog of , while traditions connected the area to Orpheus's ill-fated descent to retrieve his wife . Local legends further entrenched Cumae's mystical reputation, portraying the Sibyl's cave on the as her prophetic dwelling, a vast underground gallery inspired by natural fissures and volcanic features that amplified echoes and vapors, evoking . This cave, described by ancient authors like Varro as the Sibyl's haunt for issuing oracles on leaves scattered by wind, became a symbol of Cumae's foundational prophetic authority. The colony's mythological narratives also intertwined with the founding myths of nearby settlements, such as Neapolis (modern ).

Influence in Literature and Modern Perception

Cumae's legacy, particularly through the figure of the , has profoundly shaped Western literature, beginning with Virgil's (19 BCE), where the Sibyl serves as Aeneas's guide to the , a pivotal episode that established her as a of prophetic and passage between worlds. This portrayal not only popularized the Sibyl in Roman epic tradition but also influenced subsequent medieval and interpretations, integrating her into as a prefiguration of divine . In , the Sibyl's image gained prominence during the , most notably in Michelangelo's of the Cumaean Sibyl on the Sistine Chapel ceiling (1508–1512), where she is depicted as a muscular, contemplative figure holding a scroll, embodying intellectual and prophetic vigor amid the chapel's prophetic cycle. The era further romanticized Cumae's ruins; , during his 1787 visit, described the site's evocative desolation in Italian Journey (1816–1817), capturing its melancholic allure as a bridge to antiquity and inspiring later travelers' fascination with its mythic atmosphere. In contemporary culture, Cumae endures as a touchstone for fantasy media, with the Aeneid's underworld descent informing tropes of prophetic guides and infernal journeys, as seen in Philip Pullman's His Dark Materials trilogy (1995–2000), where sibylline figures echo the Cumaean oracle's role in navigating otherworldly realms. Today, the site draws tourists as the "Sibyl's city," its archaeological park highlighting the Cave of the Sibyl and ruins, which annually attract visitors seeking to experience the blend of colonial history and legendary prophecy.

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