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Garrett Madison

Garrett Madison is an mountaineer, professional guide, and expedition leader renowned for his expertise in high-altitude climbing, particularly on , where he has summited 15 times and led over 90 clients to the peak since 2009. Born and raised on , he began climbing at a young age with his father and made his first summit of in 1996 before starting his professional guiding career on that mountain in 1999. Madison founded Madison Mountaineering in 2014, establishing it as a guide service specializing in expeditions to the Seven Summits and 8,000-meter peaks, including zero fatalities across 20 such ventures. His notable achievements include leading the first successfully guided ascent of in 2014—where he has summited three times—and pioneering the -Lhotse doubleheader, summiting both peaks in under 24 hours on five occasions, starting in 2011. As a athlete, he contributes to gear design for extreme conditions, and he has earned an Emmy for producing content related to expeditions while consulting on major film productions. Madison's career also encompasses rescues, such as a 2025 operation on , and he continues to lead teams, including summits of in May 2025 and in October 2025.

Early life and education

Family background

Madison was raised on , surrounded by the diverse landscapes of the , which provided an ideal setting for his introduction to the outdoors. From a young age, Madison's family emphasized outdoor pursuits, with his father playing a pivotal role in fostering his interest in nature. Starting at around 5 or 6 years old, he joined his father on backpacking trips in the Cascade Mountains and , exploring the region's rugged terrain through multi-day excursions. These family activities extended to local hikes and outings, instilling a deep appreciation for the mountains and setting the stage for Madison's lifelong dedication to .

Academic and early climbing experiences

Madison graduated from Bainbridge High School in 1997. He attended in , where he pursued an interdisciplinary degree in English through Fairhaven College, graduating in 2001. His academic focus complemented his growing passion for the outdoors, shaped by his family's encouragement to explore the natural environment from a young age. During his university years, Madison completed his first notable ascent by summiting , a glaciated peak in the that served as an introduction to technical climbing in his home region. This experience built on earlier adventures in the , where he honed basic skills through backpacking and hiking in the and Mountains. As part of a semester abroad in Austria, Madison extended his climbing pursuits internationally, achieving the summit of Mont Blanc on the French-Italian border, Austria's proximity allowing access to this iconic Alpine peak. Prior to 1999, he also participated in non-professional expeditions in the region, most prominently a successful ascent of Mount Rainier in summer 1996 alongside his father, two friends, and their fathers, following intensive training that included weighted stair runs at a local stadium. These early endeavors in Washington state's volcanic terrain solidified his foundational mountaineering techniques and aspirations.

Professional career

Entry into guiding

Garrett Madison began his professional guiding career in 1999 as an apprentice guide with Rainier Mountaineering Inc. (RMI) on Mount Rainier in Washington state. Initially viewing it as a summer job while studying at Western Washington University, Madison quickly developed proficiency in leading clients through the mountain's challenging routes, drawing on his prior personal climbs. Over the subsequent years, Madison amassed an impressive record on Mount Rainier, achieving 191 summits as of 2019, which solidified his reputation as one of the foremost experts on the peak. This extensive experience allowed him to mentor new guides and refine techniques for safe ascents in variable weather conditions, emphasizing risk management and client preparation. In 2003, he joined International Mountain Guides as an assistant guide, including on expeditions to Cho Oyu. Madison expanded his guiding to other prominent North American peaks in the early 2000s, including in the and (formerly known as Mount McKinley) in . On , he applied skills honed on Rainier to its glaciated terrain, while Denali's longer approaches and extreme altitudes tested his leadership in remote environments, where he guided clients seasonally. To support his entry into professional guiding, Madison pursued targeted training and certifications in the late 1990s and early 2000s, including Wilderness First Responder and Level 2 Forecasting for Guides. These qualifications, combined with apprenticeships under established outfits like RMI, equipped him with essential medical, rescue, and snow safety expertise required for high-altitude operations.

Founding and leadership of Madison Mountaineering

Garrett Madison founded Madison Mountaineering in 2014 after years of guiding for other outfits, establishing the company as a boutique guiding service based in Seattle, Washington. Initially, the company focused on domestic expeditions, including guided ascents of and , drawing on Madison's extensive experience leading climbs on these peaks since 1999. Under Madison's leadership as president and expedition leader, the company rapidly expanded in the late 2010s to offer international trips across all seven continents, encompassing the Seven Summits and high-altitude peaks like and K2. His approach prioritizes safety as the foremost concern, with meticulous planning of logistics and to navigate extreme environments. Madison fosters strong team dynamics by building trust among guides, Sherpas, and clients, while emphasizing personalized support to enhance client success and enjoyment in challenging conditions. Key milestones include consistent summit success on major peaks; by 2025, Madison Mountaineering had operated its 11th consecutive season on , contributing to over 80 clients reaching the summit under the company's banner since its inception. This growth underscores Madison's role in scaling the operation from local trips to a globally recognized guiding firm.

Major expeditions

Mount Everest and Lhotse ascents

Garrett Madison achieved his first summit of on May 21, 2006, ascending via the standard route from the Nepalese side. This ascent marked his entry into high-altitude Himalayan guiding, where he navigated the route's logistical demands, including fixed ropes across the and oxygen management at extreme altitudes above 8,000 meters. By November 2025, Madison had reached the summit of 15 times, tying American climber for the most summits by a U.S. citizen. His 15th summit occurred during the May 2025 climbing season, highlighting his endurance amid the mountain's unpredictable weather and the physical toll of repeated rotations through the lower camps. These expeditions underscored logistical challenges such as coordinating support for route preparation and managing client acclimatization to mitigate risks like . Madison pioneered rapid ascents combining Everest and the adjacent Lhotse, summiting both peaks in under 24 hours on five occasions: 2011, 2013, 2018, 2022, and 2023. The inaugural 2011 traverse set a guiding record, as he led clients across the shared high camp to conquer the two 8,000-meter giants consecutively, traversing the challenging Lhotse Face and requiring precise timing to avoid afternoon storms. Subsequent repeats amplified the operation's complexity, involving synchronized oxygen logistics and descent planning to ensure team safety on the exposed ridges. During the April 25, 2015, Nepal earthquake, Madison was on with his Madison Mountaineering team, experiencing the deadliest incident in the mountain's history when an triggered by the 7.8-magnitude quake devastated base camp. Stranded above the chaos at Camp 2, the group endured aftershocks and blocked routes while learning of the loss of their base camp doctor, Marisa Eve Girawong, who succumbed to injuries from the . The event forced improvised evacuations via , testing Madison's leadership in crisis amid disrupted supply lines and heightened risks.

K2 expeditions

Garrett Madison pioneered commercial guiding on , the world's second-highest peak, renowned for its technical difficulty and high risks, by leading the first successful guided expedition to its summit in 2014. On July 27, 2014, Madison, along with climbers Alan Arnette and Matt Du Puy, reached the summit via the Abruzzi Spur route, supported by a team of including Kami Rita Sherpa. This small-team effort marked a milestone, as K2 had previously seen few guided attempts due to its steep terrain, unpredictable weather, and lack of established infrastructure compared to . Madison returned to K2 in 2018, leading a larger expedition that achieved another guided success on July 22. The team consisted of eight clients, three guides, and 15 Sherpas, establishing a record for the largest group to summit together at the time and demonstrating the scalability of guided ascents on the mountain. In 2021, Madison guided a team of approximately eight climbers to the summit on July 28, achieving 100% success for the group amid challenging conditions, bringing his personal K2 summits to three. His fourth summit came on July 29, 2024, with a team that included clients such as Benjamin Lieber and Javier Beiza, again reporting full summit success and safe descent. These expeditions highlight Madison's role in making more accessible through guided services, with team sizes evolving from three primary climbers in 2014 to larger groups in later years, including up to 21 participants counting support staff in 2024. Madison stands as the only American to have summited four times, a feat underscoring his expertise on this notoriously dangerous peak, where the fatality rate exceeds 20%—far higher than on . Challenges across his efforts included severe weather delays, such as heavy snowfall obscuring routes, and the physical demands of climbing without supplemental oxygen on certain personal or team segments, though most guided pushes utilized it for safety. These factors, combined with 's technical sections like the , demanded meticulous planning and adaptability from Madison's teams.

Other high-altitude climbs and incidents

Madison's introduction to 8,000-meter peaks came in 2003 when he served as an assistant guide on an International Mountain Guides expedition to , the sixth-highest mountain in the world at 8,188 meters. The team, which included seven members reaching the summit on , marked his first Himalayan high-altitude endeavor, providing foundational experience in extreme environments. Throughout the 2010s and beyond, Madison led expeditions to other prominent 8,000-meter peaks, including in , the eighth-highest at 8,163 meters, where his teams achieved successful summits during multiple seasons. He also completed the Seven Summits by summiting in , the continent's highest peak at 4,892 meters, through numerous guided trips starting in 2009; Madison Mountaineering reports 29 such expeditions with full summit success. These climbs exemplified his expertise in managing diverse high-altitude challenges across global ranges. In , Madison established himself as a leading guide on (formerly Mount McKinley), 's 6,190-meter summit, assuming multiple leadership roles over the years, including a personal summit in June 2025 during a season noted for low overall success rates. His guidance emphasized safety and in the Alaska Range's variable conditions. In October 2025, Madison led a successful expedition to , with his team reaching the summit on October 13 after overcoming challenging weather conditions. A significant incident occurred during the April 25, 2015, Nepal earthquake, which triggered a massive that devastated Base Camp, destroying tents, equipment, and infrastructure across multiple expeditions and halting operations for weeks. The event stranded climbers, including Madison's team at higher camps, and broadly disrupted logistics, medical support, and evacuation efforts for the international climbing community at the site.

Media involvement

Films and documentaries

Garrett Madison has contributed to mountaineering media through production and appearances in visual formats, leveraging his expedition experiences to document high-altitude challenges. Madison contributed footage from a Madison Mountaineering expedition to the 2017 film Capturing Everest, produced by in partnership with and Panoglow, which immerses viewers in a simulated ascent of from base camp to summit. The film, which debuted on Time Inc.'s LIFE VR platform and SI.com, earned a 2018 Sports Emmy Award for Outstanding Digital Innovation, recognizing its innovative use of 360-degree footage. Madison has appeared in several documentaries highlighting perilous events on Everest. In Everest Avalanche Tragedy (2014), directed by Betsy Wagner, he is featured as an expedition leader providing firsthand accounts of the April 18 avalanche that killed 16 Sherpas, drawing from footage and interviews conducted at base camp during his 2014 climb. Similarly, Nightmare on Everest (2015), directed by Karen McGann, incorporates Madison's perspectives and climber-shot footage from the April 25 earthquake and subsequent avalanche, which devastated base camp and claimed 22 lives during his 2015 expedition. He also appears in High Tension (2013), part of the Reel Rock Tour series and directed by Zachary Barr and Peter Mortimer, which chronicles a high-stakes traverse between and involving elite climbers. Through Madison Mountaineering, Madison has overseen the production of promotional videos since the early , capturing expedition footage for educational and marketing purposes on platforms like , including summit dispatches, training segments, and behind-the-scenes looks at climbs on peaks such as , , and . These collaborations with filmmakers during his 2014 and 2015 expeditions provided raw material for the aforementioned documentaries, emphasizing real-time hazards like and earthquakes.

Publications and public speaking

Garrett Madison has contributed to and been featured in several prominent publications, sharing insights from his mountaineering expeditions. In Outside Magazine, he has authored articles on high-altitude climbing challenges and industry developments, including coverage of conflicts among climbers in the Himalayas. People Magazine profiled Madison's harrowing experience during the April 2015 Nepal earthquake, which triggered an avalanche at Mount Everest base camp, detailing his evacuation efforts and the loss of team members. ESPN has covered Madison's expeditions through video features and reports, such as his role in the 2015 Everest season amid the disaster. Madison is authoring a forthcoming book titled High-Stakes Leadership: When Your Life and the Lives of Others Hang in the Balance, co-written with Stephen G. Ray, which draws on his decades of guiding experience to explore decision-making under extreme pressure. As a public speaker, Madison delivers keynotes through agencies like AAE Speakers Bureau, where he discusses leadership principles derived from high-altitude expeditions, emphasizing , , and in corporate and motivational settings. His talks often reference real-time challenges faced during climbs, such as weather delays and team dynamics on peaks like . In interviews, Madison has provided live commentary on his ascents; for instance, on , 2025, he participated in a summit interview from via alanarnette.com, reflecting on conditions, client progress, and the season's successes.

Achievements and legacy

Climbing records

Garrett Madison has achieved 15 ascents of as of November 2025, tying American climber for the second-most summits by a non-Sherpa mountaineer. As expedition leader for Madison Mountaineering since 2009, he has guided over 90 clients to the Everest summit, more than any other guide. Madison is the only American to have summited five times, with successful ascents in 2014, 2018, 2021, 2022, and 2024, leading the first fully guided commercial team to the peak in 2014. He holds the record for guiding the most climbers—12—to the summits of and Mount Lhotse, two adjacent 8,000-meter peaks, within 24 hours, achieving this double ascent personally five times. Madison has completed the Seven Summits, ascending the highest peak on each continent, and holds speed records on certain routes during these climbs. In 2025, he summited six of the Seven Summits within the year.

Awards and recognitions

Garrett Madison received the 2018 Sports Emmy Award in the Outstanding Digital Innovation category as an for the virtual reality documentary series Capturing Everest, produced by and LIFE VR, which documented a climb of from base camp to summit. Madison has been recognized by outdoor industry outlets as "America's premier Everest guide" for his extensive leadership in high-altitude expeditions, including multiple successful summits and guided ascents on the world's highest peak. His pioneering efforts in guiding, such as leading the first commercial ascent of in 2014, have earned him acknowledgments within the community for advancing safe practices on extreme peaks, though no formal from organizations like the American Alpine Club were documented as of 2025. By 2025, Madison's contributions to adventure leadership were cited in professional speaking engagements and media profiles, highlighting his role in inspiring risk management and environmental stewardship in the climbing world.

Personal life

Family and residence

Garrett Madison grew up on Bainbridge Island, where he developed an early passion for the outdoors through family backpacking trips with his father in the Olympic and Cascade Mountains, beginning at age five or six. Madison attended Bainbridge High School before pursuing higher education at Western Washington University in Bellingham. Madison maintains his long-term residence on Bainbridge Island in the , a location that aligns with his roots and proximity to key climbing venues like . In 1996, at age 17, he achieved his first summit of during a climb with his father, two friends, and their fathers, marking a significant family-influenced milestone in his climbing journey. Madison maintains privacy regarding his personal relationships amid the demands of seasonal expeditions.

Consulting and future projects

Looking ahead, Madison is authoring the forthcoming book High-Stakes Leadership: When Your Life And Hang In The Balance, which explores decision-making in extreme environments based on his insights. The book aims to apply lessons from expeditions to broader leadership contexts.

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