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Gho

The gho is the traditional and national dress for men in Bhutan, consisting of a knee-length robe wrapped around the body and secured at the waist with a handwoven belt known as the kera.^[1]^[2] Worn over a white jacket called the tego with folded-back cuffs, the gho forms a loose, pleated skirt-like garment that allows freedom of movement while adhering to cultural norms of modesty and formality.^[1]^[3] The design incorporates three to four lengths of woven cloth, often featuring intricate patterns from local textiles, and creates a characteristic pouch at the waist for carrying personal items such as bowls, books, or betel nut pouches.^[1]^[4] As a symbol of Bhutanese identity, the gho is mandatory attire for men during official events, government functions, and religious ceremonies, embodying the principles of Driglam Namzha, Bhutan's code of etiquette and traditional conduct.^[2]^[3] Introduced as standardized national dress in the 17th century, it reflects the kingdom's emphasis on preserving cultural heritage amid modernization, with variations in fabric quality denoting social status—fine wools or silks for elites and coarser materials for commoners.^[5]^[6] The garment's enduring use underscores Bhutan's commitment to Gross National Happiness, prioritizing cultural continuity over rapid Westernization.^[2]

Etymology

Origins of the Term

The term gho derives from the Dzongkha word བགོ (Wylie transliteration: bgo), which specifically denotes the knee-length robe constituting the traditional male attire in Bhutan.^[7] Dzongkha, a Sino-Tibetan language of the Tibeto-Burman branch and Bhutan's national language, evolved from [Old Tibetan](/page/Old Tibetan) dialects brought by migrations from Tibet starting around the 7th century CE, though the precise phonological and semantic roots of bgo lack detailed attestation in linguistic scholarship.^[8] In contrast to broader Tibetan terminology for robes, such as chuba (ཕྱུ་པ་, phyu pa), which describes a longer, more versatile outer garment common across the Tibetan plateau, bgo appears tailored to the Bhutanese context of a belted, pleated wrap suited to mountainous terrain.^[9] This distinction underscores gho as a vernacular adaptation rather than a direct borrowing, reflecting local phonetic shifts and cultural specificity in garment nomenclature among southern Tibetic speakers. No earlier attestations of bgo predate Bhutanese unification in the 17th century, aligning its documented usage with the standardization of national dress under Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal, though the term itself likely predates this as indigenous lexicon for wrapped clothing.^[1]

History

Pre-17th Century Antecedents

The precursors to the gho in the territory of modern Bhutan trace to regional Himalayan attire, particularly the Tibetan chuba, a unisex, ankle-length woolen robe worn for protection against high-altitude cold and wind.^[1] This garment featured wide sleeves and a wrap-around design secured by a belt, allowing for layering and mobility among nomadic herders and traders in Tibet and adjacent areas.^[10] Archaeological and artistic evidence, including 8th-century murals from Dunhuang caves in China depicting Central Asian and proto-Tibetan figures in long robes, indicates such styles predated widespread Tibetan Buddhist influence in the Himalayas by centuries.^[10] Bhutan's pre-unification era (prior to 1616) saw fragmented polities under local chieftains and clans, including Ngalop migrants from Tibet who brought Buddhist practices and associated dress norms around the 9th–12th centuries.^[11] These groups, alongside indigenous Monpa and Tshangla peoples, favored practical wool or yak-hair robes suited to rugged terrain, though variations existed due to ethnic diversity and trade with Assam and Bengal, incorporating lighter cotton elements in lower valleys.^[12] No standardized national garment existed; instead, attire reflected subsistence needs, with longer robes for northern highlanders mirroring Tibetan forms and shorter wraps for southern foothills.^[1] Early Buddhist texts and traveler accounts from the 15th–16th centuries describe Himalayan monks and laymen in belted robes akin to the chuba, emphasizing functionality over ornamentation, which laid the groundwork for later adaptations.^[13] These precedents prioritized durability in variable climates, using locally sheared wool dyed with natural pigments, contrasting with finer Indian silks traded sporadically via southern routes.^[1]

Introduction by Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal

Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal (1594–1651), a Tibetan Buddhist lama and political leader, fled religious persecution in Tibet and arrived in Bhutan around 1616, where he gradually unified disparate tribal regions into a cohesive theocratic state by the 1630s through military campaigns and administrative reforms.^[1] As part of his efforts to establish a distinct Bhutanese national identity separate from Tibetan influences, he codified traditional attire, including the introduction of the gho as the standard garment for men, alongside the kira for women.^[14] This was embedded within the Driglam Namzha, a formal code of conduct and dress that emphasized uniformity in appearance to symbolize unity among the Ngalop people and other ethnic groups under a shared cultural framework.^[15] The gho's design under Zhabdrung's influence transformed earlier loose robes into a more structured knee-length garment, tied at the waist with a belt (kera) and featuring wide sleeves that could be folded to create a pocket-like space for carrying items, reflecting practical adaptations to Bhutan's mountainous terrain while promoting a sense of collective discipline and hierarchy.^[1] By mandating its use in official, religious, and communal settings, Zhabdrung aimed to visually distinguish Bhutanese subjects from their northern neighbors, fostering loyalty to the emerging dual system of governance combining spiritual and temporal authority.^[14] Historical accounts attribute this innovation directly to his vision for cultural consolidation, as Bhutan's small population and strategic border position necessitated strong internal cohesion against external threats.^[15] This introduction marked the gho not merely as clothing but as a foundational element of Bhutanese statecraft, enduring as a mandatory national dress for formal occasions into the modern era, with variations later refined but retaining the core form established in the 17th century.^[1]^[14]

Developments in the 20th and 21st Centuries

During the reign of King Jigme Dorji Wangchuck from 1952 to 1972, the gho was formalized as the national attire for Bhutanese men amid efforts to modernize the kingdom while preserving cultural identity.^[16] This period saw the garment's widespread adoption beyond elites, reflecting a broader societal shift toward national unification and distinction from neighboring influences.^[1] A pivotal development occurred on January 16, 1989, when King Jigme Singye Wangchuck issued a royal decree enforcing Driglam Namzha, the traditional code of etiquette, which mandated the gho for government offices, schools, monasteries, and official functions.^[17] This policy aimed to counteract the influx of Western clothing trends, such as jeans, and reinforce Bhutanese distinctiveness during rapid modernization and exposure to global culture.^[1] The decree extended the gho's use to everyday formal settings, solidifying its role in public life.^[18] In the 21st century, enforcement of the 1989 mandate has softened, allowing greater flexibility in casual contexts while retaining requirements for official and ceremonial wear.^[19] The gho continues to symbolize national pride, with variations in colors and patterns enabling personal expression, and its front pouch adapted for modern items like wallets and keys rather than traditional betel nuts.^[1] Under King Jigme Khesar Namgyel Wangchuck since 2006, and following Bhutan's transition to constitutional monarchy in 2008, the garment remains standard in parliamentary sessions, national celebrations, and diplomatic events, underscoring its enduring function in fostering cultural continuity amid tourism growth and economic development.^[19] Materials have evolved to include more accessible fabrics alongside traditional silk and cotton, supporting handweaving practices by women while accommodating contemporary needs.^[1]

Design and Construction

Key Components

The gho is primarily constructed from three to four rectangular lengths of woven cloth sewn together vertically to form a floor-length, loose-fitting robe with a left-crossing front overlap.^[1] This multi-panel assembly allows for ample volume, enabling the garment to be adjusted from its full length to knee height during wear.^[20] The front overlap is secured by tying under the arm, while the back features two wide pleats that provide structural shaping and prevent excess bulk.^[1]^[20] Long sleeves extend from the body panels, often with foldable or pinnable cuffs that can be adjusted for formality or function.^[9] These cuffs, visible when folded outward, may incorporate decorative elements or contrast with an underlying jacket.^[3] Beneath the gho, a long-sleeved short jacket known as the tega is worn, featuring a collar and cuffs that peek out, adding a layered formality to the ensemble.^[9] Securement relies on the kera, a woven cloth belt fastened at the waist, which gathers the excess fabric upward and over it to form a characteristic front pouch for carrying items such as documents or betel nut.^[1]^[20]^[9] This adjustment mechanism, integral to the gho's design, transforms the robe's voluminous construction into a practical knee-length garment suited to Bhutan's mountainous terrain.^[20]

Materials and Variations

The Gho is primarily constructed from handwoven fabrics derived from natural fibers, including raw silk (bura), cotton, nettle, sheep's wool, yak hair, and yak wool.^[1] These materials are selected for their durability and suitability to Bhutan's varied climate, with wool and nettle providing wind- and rain-resistance for everyday wear, while silk is favored for formal variants due to its luster and strength.^[21] Lining is typically cotton for comfort.^[1] Weaving techniques employ backstrap looms (pangthag), card looms (shogu thagshing), or horizontal frame looms (thrithag), producing vertical cloth lengths sewn into the robe's structure.^[1] Common patterns include aikapur, an extra-warp technique creating intricate designs, and supplementary-warp motifs such as jadrima rainbow stripes.^[1]^[20] Formal Gho often feature complex patterns like mentsi marthra in red and yellow, woven from wild silk, enhancing prestige.^[20] Variations reflect regional specialties and occasions: eastern Bhutan excels in silk aikapur weaves, central regions in woolen yathra textiles with geometric motifs, and districts incorporate unique patterns denoting local identity.^[1]^[22] Everyday Gho use simple checks or stripes in earth tones from cotton or wool, while ceremonial versions employ vibrant, high-quality silks with elaborate designs.^[3] The complexity of patterns, such as the number of "legs" in aikapur (with odd counts deemed auspicious), determines the garment's value.^[1]

Functional Adaptations to Environment

The Gho's design originated as a modification of the longer Tibetan chuba robe by Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal in the 17th century, tailored to Bhutan's relatively warmer and more humid subtropical-to-alpine climate compared to the Tibetan plateau's drier cold.^[1] Unlike the floor-length chuba, the Gho is constructed from three to four panels of cloth sewn into a full-length robe that is folded upward at the waist to knee level when worn, secured by a woven belt (kera), which shortens the garment for greater mobility and reduced drag in Bhutan's varied elevations ranging from 100 meters in southern valleys to over 7,000 meters in the north.^[1] This adjustment prevents excess fabric from hindering movement across steep, forested terrains or during agricultural labor, where temperatures can fluctuate from sub-zero winters in highlands to humid summers exceeding 30°C in lowlands.^[2] The loose, voluminous fit of the Gho, with its wide sleeves and pleated folds gathered at the back and front, facilitates physical activity in Bhutan's rugged Himalayan landscape, allowing unrestricted strides for herding, farming, or trekking on uneven paths.^[23] These folds also create an internal pouch for carrying essentials like food, tools, or betel nut without additional baggage, adapting to a lifestyle historically dependent on portable, hands-free utility in remote villages lacking modern infrastructure.^[1] In colder conditions, the excess fabric enables layering of shirts or woolen undergarments beneath, trapping body heat through air pockets formed by the draping, while the belt's tension adjusts for insulation or ventilation as needed.^[23]^[16] Material choices further enhance environmental suitability: wool variants provide warmth against alpine frosts and winds, prevalent above 3,000 meters, whereas cotton or silk blends suit the monsoon-prone lower regions, where breathability counters high humidity and rainfall averaging 1,000–5,000 mm annually.^[2]^[16] This versatility supports year-round wear in Bhutan's microclimatic zones, from temperate central valleys to subalpine north, without requiring frequent wardrobe changes, aligning with resource-limited traditional economies.^[24]

Wearing Practices

Method of Donning and Accessories

The process of donning the gho requires precise wrapping and securing to form its distinctive knee-length silhouette. The wearer first puts on a tego, a long-sleeved, short jacket that functions as an underlayer.^[9] The gho, consisting of sewn panels of cloth, is then draped around the body with the right front panel tucked into the left, followed by folding the left panel over the right to create a front overlap.^[9] Two wide pleats are gathered and folded at the back for volume and drape.^[1] A kera, a handwoven cloth belt typically made from wool or cotton, is wrapped multiple times around the waist and tied securely to anchor the garment.^[2] The lower hem of the gho is then lifted and tucked upward into the belt, forming a spacious pouch called the koma or dhago that extends to just above the knees; this compartment allows practical storage for items such as documents, wallets, or snacks.^[25]^[16] The tightness of the kera ensures the pleats and folds remain in place during movement.^[1] Accessories enhance the gho's formality and signify status. The kabney, a rectangular scarf of silk or cotton, is draped over the left shoulder and secured at the right hip, with colors denoting rank: plain white for lay civilians, orange for monks, dark red (bura map) for government officials, and other hues like yellow or maroon for royalty and high dignitaries.^[1]^[26] Detachable white cuffs known as tsholham are pinned to the sleeves for ceremonial occasions, providing a crisp finish.^[27] Knee-high socks, often in white or patterned wool, pair with traditional leather shoes or modern footwear to complete the ensemble, adapting to both rural and urban contexts.^[28] In official settings, senior figures may add a patang, a ceremonial sword sheathed at the side.^[1]

Etiquette and Dress Codes

In Bhutan, the gho is mandated by Driglam Namzha, the national code of etiquette and conduct established to preserve cultural norms, requiring men to wear it in government offices, schools, and public formal settings to uphold traditional decorum.^[29] This dress code, formalized in its modern enforcement during the late 20th century, extends to official ceremonies, festivals, and religious sites where Western attire is generally prohibited to maintain uniformity and respect for heritage.^[16] ^[3] Proper donning of the gho adheres to specific protocols: the robe is wrapped tightly around the body, hoisted to knee length, folded at the front to create a pouch for carrying items, and secured with a woven cloth belt known as the kera.^[2] ^[9] For elevated formality, a kabney—a silk or ceremonial scarf—is draped from the left shoulder across to the right hip, with its color signifying rank: white for commoners, red for officials or Dzongpon (district administrators), and patterns like patra (orange-red stripes) for royalty or high clergy.^[1] ^[30] High-ranking officers pair the kabney with a sword at the side, emphasizing hierarchical symbolism during audiences or processions.^[1] Etiquette further dictates that the gho be worn with knee-length white cuffs (shremo) visible below the sleeves, ensuring modesty and neatness, while deviations such as improper folding or excessive length are considered disrespectful in ceremonial contexts.^[29] In dzongs (fortress-monasteries) or temples, men in gho must remove headwear upon entry and avoid smoking or overt displays to honor sacred spaces.^[31] Violations of these codes, though rarely enforced punitively, can draw social disapproval, reinforcing communal adherence through cultural expectation rather than strict legal penalty.^[25]

Cultural Role

Symbolism in Bhutanese Society

The Gho symbolizes Bhutanese national identity, having been introduced by Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal in the 17th century to unify the population and differentiate Bhutanese attire from the longer Tibetan chuba, adapted for the kingdom's warmer climate by being drawn up to knee length.^[1] This design choice reflects practical adaptation while establishing a distinct cultural marker that reinforces sovereignty and cohesion amid regional influences.^[1] In Bhutanese society, the Gho promotes uniformity and equality, as it is mandated as the national dress for all men—from monarchs to commoners—in official, educational, and governmental settings under the driglam namzha code of etiquette formalized in 1989.^[1] This requirement levels social distinctions in appearance during formal interactions, fostering a collective sense of belonging and cultural continuity, while the garment's prestige value historically positioned it as a form of currency and gift signifying prosperity.^[1] Design elements of the Gho carry symbolic weight rooted in Buddhist traditions, including supplementary-warp patterns like aikapur with odd-numbered motifs—such as 11 "legs"—deemed auspicious for their association with spiritual harmony and value.^[1] These features, often woven by women using local materials, underscore the garment's role in preserving artisanal skills and resisting Western sartorial influences, thereby embodying endurance of Bhutanese heritage in daily and ceremonial life.^[1]^[3]

Role in National Identity and Ceremonies

The Gho embodies Bhutanese national identity, originating in the 17th century under Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal as a deliberate marker to distinguish Bhutanese men from Tibetan counterparts, thereby fostering a unique cultural sovereignty amid regional influences.^[1] Formalized as national attire during the reign of King Jigme Dorji Wangchuck in the mid-20th century, it symbolizes unity, heritage, and pride, with government policies promoting its daily and formal use to counteract homogenization from globalization.^[16]^[32] In ceremonies, the Gho is mandatory under the Driglam Namzha etiquette code, enforced since 1989, requiring its wear in public daylight hours, government offices, schools, and official events to preserve cultural continuity.^[33]^[5] It features prominently in Tshechu festivals, where men don the garment for masked dances, rituals, and communal gatherings honoring Buddhist deities, as well as National Day on December 17, parliamentary sessions, and royal audiences often paired with ceremonial scarves like the kabney.^[2]^[3]^[1] This attire reinforces hierarchical respect—through color-coded accessories—and collective participation, linking participants to Bhutan's spiritual and monarchical traditions.^[34]

Reception and Impact

Preservation Efforts and Legal Mandates

In Bhutan, the Driglam Namzha, a traditional code of etiquette and conduct formalized in the 1980s under King Jigme Singye Wangchuck, mandates the wearing of the gho by men in government offices, schools, and formal public occasions as a means to uphold cultural uniformity and heritage.^[1] Enforcement of this dress code intensified in 1989, extending requirements to all male Bhutanese citizens in official settings to counteract Western influences amid modernization.^[33] Non-compliance can result in police intervention, including detention, particularly for those appearing in public without national attire.^[35] These legal stipulations form the core of preservation efforts for the gho, embedding it in institutional routines to sustain national identity and prevent erosion from globalized fashion trends.^[2] By requiring the garment in educational environments, policies ensure transmission to younger generations, fostering familiarity and pride in traditional craftsmanship, often using locally woven wool or cotton.^[24] Governmental promotion extends to festivals and ceremonies, where the gho's use reinforces communal rituals and discourages casual abandonment, though no dedicated non-governmental organizations focus exclusively on gho conservation.^[2] This approach prioritizes statutory obligation over voluntary initiatives, reflecting Bhutan's centralized cultural governance.

Criticisms Regarding Practicality and Modernity

Critics have pointed to the gho's design as limiting mobility and comfort in everyday activities, with young Bhutanese describing it as cumbersome compared to Western clothing like jeans, which allow easier movement.^[36] Specific complaints include the garment's thick material making it too warm in lower altitudes and the tight belt causing discomfort during prolonged wear.^[36] Donning the gho requires folding and securing multiple layers with a kera belt, a process that can take several minutes and demands practice, rendering it impractical for quick changes in fast-paced modern routines.^[37] In professional and urban settings, the gho's loose, knee-length structure hinders tasks requiring agility, such as manual labor or sports, prompting some Bhutanese to wear jeans underneath or opt for hybrid "half-gho" variants despite disapproval from elders who view such adaptations as cultural dilution.^[36] English-medium educated youth, exposed to global influences, often reserve the gho for mandated formal contexts like offices and schools, favoring casual Western attire for leisure due to its perceived fashionability and suitability for contemporary lifestyles.^[36] Regarding modernity, the enforcement of gho under Driglam Namzha—a code of conduct mandating national dress in public institutions since the 1980s—has drawn accusations of imposing rigid conformity that stifles personal expression and adaptation to economic changes like tourism and urbanization.^[29] Critics argue this policy prioritizes symbolic preservation over functional evolution, exacerbating generational tensions as younger Bhutanese negotiate tradition with aspirations for flexible, globally influenced wardrobes.^[36] While the gho symbolizes national identity, its compulsory use in evolving sectors like IT and hospitality is seen by some as an obstacle to innovation, though empirical data on productivity impacts remains limited.^[38]

Global Recognition and Adaptations

The gho has garnered international recognition primarily through diplomatic engagements and cultural exhibitions. Bhutanese monarchs and officials frequently wear the gho during state visits and global events, symbolizing national identity on the world stage. For example, King Jigme Khesar Namgyel Wangchuck donned a traditional gho at the coronation of King Charles III in Westminster Abbey on May 6, 2023, drawing attention to Bhutanese attire amid world leaders.^[39] Similarly, the garment appears in prestigious museum collections, such as the Rubin Museum of Art's Project Himalayan Art, which documents the gho's construction from multiple cloth panels sewn into a voluminous robe, and the Cooper Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum, which features examples highlighting its patterned textiles and structural design.^[1]^[20] Adaptations of the gho beyond Bhutan remain limited, reflecting its deep ties to Bhutanese cultural and environmental contexts rather than widespread international modification. While the garment originated as an adaptation of the Tibetan chuba with added cuffs for functionality in Bhutan's terrain, global diaspora communities—primarily Lhotshampa refugees resettled in countries like the United States and Nepal since the 1990s—show minimal evidence of sustained gho usage or evolution, often prioritizing assimilation over traditional dress preservation due to historical ethnic tensions.^[9] In fashion contexts, occasional nods to the gho's form appear in discussions of sustainable or intentional apparel, positioning it as emblematic of mindful living, though without substantive redesigns or commercial adaptations.^[40] This contrasts with more hybridized traditional garments in larger diasporas, underscoring the gho's niche persistence as an unaltered emblem of Bhutanese sovereignty.

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