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Smalls Lighthouse

Smalls Lighthouse is a historic stone tower located on a small in the , approximately 21 miles (34 km) off St David's Head on the coast of , serving as a critical and hazard warning for maritime traffic in one of the most remote and treacherous parts of British waters. Standing 41 meters (135 ft) tall with its light positioned 36 meters (118 ft) above high water, it emits three white flashes every 15 seconds visible for 18 nautical miles, and has been automated since 1987 with remote monitoring from 's control center in , . Constructed by the Corporation of between 1858 and 1861, designed by engineer James Walker with James Douglass as chief engineer, the current granite structure replaced an innovative but storm-vulnerable timber predecessor built in 1776, marking a significant advancement in offshore engineering inspired by John Smeaton's Eddystone design. The original Smalls Lighthouse was conceived by Welsh entrepreneur John , who secured a patent in 1774, and designed by Liverpool instrument maker Whiteside as an octagonal timber hut elevated on eight pillars—five wooden and three iron (later increased to nine)—to allow waves to pass beneath with minimal obstruction. Completed in September 1776 after assembly at Solva and transport by sea, it featured oil lamps in a room atop a living quarters, but suffered severe damage from winter storms in 1777, prompting repairs and House's acquisition via parliamentary act in 1778, after which it was leased back to Phillips for 99 years at an annual rent of £5. The structure's remote isolation, accessible only by boat or helicopter (with a helideck added in 1978), underscored the dangers of service there, culminating in the infamous 1801 tragedy when keeper Thomas Griffith died from illness during a prolonged storm, leaving his colleague Thomas Howell to construct a makeshift coffin from interior boards and lash it to the rail to avoid murder suspicions upon relief. For three weeks, amid gales that partially destroyed the coffin and exposed the decomposing remains, Howell endured profound until rescued in late January 1802, an ordeal that prompted to mandate a minimum of three keepers at remote stations during winter months to prevent such isolation. Beyond its engineering and human dramas, Smalls Lighthouse holds maritime significance as the where, in 1837, Captain Thomas H. Sumner approaching the station developed the concept of celestial position lines, revolutionizing navigation by enabling fixes from a single observation rather than three. The tower's exterior, once painted with red and white horizontal stripes for visibility (removed in 1997 to expose its natural granite), exemplifies Victorian-era advancements in aids to navigation, and today it remains under management as a protected site, symbolizing Britain's enduring to seafaring safety.

Geography and Location

Position and Surroundings

Smalls Lighthouse is situated at coordinates 51°43′16″N 5°40′11″W, on the Smalls Reef in the Irish Sea. It lies approximately 21 miles (34 km) west of St David's Head in Pembrokeshire, Wales, marking a remote offshore position far from the mainland. This placement positions the lighthouse as a critical hazard marker for vessels navigating the approaches to St. George's Channel, alerting ships to the dangerous reef and surrounding rocks that pose significant risks to maritime traffic along the Pembrokeshire coast. The structure is proximate to other key landmarks, including approximately 20 miles (32 km) to the east, a notable site for and further highlighting the lighthouse's isolated oceanic setting. Built on the foundational rock formation known as the Smalls Reef, the lighthouse stands amid a cluster of low-lying, wave-exposed outcrops whose highest point rises only about 3.5 meters above high tide. The site's exposure to severely limits accessibility, with frequent gales and high seas making approach difficult or impossible outside of calm conditions, reachable only by or . These conditions, including severe storms that have historically battered the rocks, underscore the lighthouse's profound isolation, over 20 miles from the nearest land and surrounded by open sea.

Geological Features

The Smalls comprises a cluster of wave-washed rocks rising from the , with the lighthouse situated on the largest outcrop, which projects only about 3.5 meters above high tide. These rocks are primarily composed of resistant volcanic lavas, including basalts such as olivine basalt, along with tuffs and interbedded sandstones from the Skomer Volcanic Group. The formation's rugged, low-lying nature, shaped by relentless wave action, contributes to its isolation approximately 21 miles west of St David's Head in . The Smalls is designated as a protected feature within the Pembrokeshire Marine (SAC) due to its geological and ecological importance. Geologically, The Smalls originated from extensive volcanic activity during the period, around 430 million years ago, as part of an east-west trending submarine ridge linked to the Volcanic Group exposed on nearby Island and the Marloes Peninsula. This activity produced to lavas and deposits that solidified into the current , forming a hazardous submerged extending several hundred meters along the ridge and surrounded by shallow waters less than 30 meters deep. The reef's irregular shoals, combined with strong currents and frequent breakers, create deceptive navigational perils, particularly in fog and storms where the rocks are barely visible. Prior to the lighthouse's construction in 1776, the area's treacherous resulted in many recorded shipwrecks, underscoring the reef's role as a significant maritime hazard off the Pembrokeshire coast. These incidents were exacerbated by the reef's low profile and the surrounding tidal rips, which concealed the dangers until vessels were perilously close.

The Original Lighthouse

Construction and Design

The original Smalls Lighthouse was initiated in the early 1770s by John Phillips, a Welsh Quaker and dock master, who secured a in 1774 and sought to mark the dangerous Smalls rocks approximately 20 miles west of St David's Head in , . Phillips selected a design submitted by Henry Whiteside, a 26-year-old musical instrument maker with no prior experience, and oversaw construction alongside his relative, John Phillips. The project addressed the site's exposure to severe Atlantic storms by prioritizing a lightweight, flexible structure over a rigid stone tower. Whiteside's innovative featured an octagonal wooden tower approximately 18 meters (60 feet) tall, constructed from timbers and perched on nine supports—five wooden and three outer pillars around a central post for stability. Iron braces and rings connected the pillars, which were drilled into the underlying rock, elevating the base about 6 meters above the rock platform to permit waves to surge underneath with minimal obstruction. This piled configuration, drawing from Whiteside's expertise, allowed the structure to flex during gales rather than shatter, though the rock's geological instability—characterized by wave-worn outcrops—complicated anchoring. Construction began in 1775 with the tower prefabricated onshore in the Vale of Solva, about 25 miles northeast of the site, where components were assembled into sections for transport. These were then floated out to sea on barges during calmer summer periods and erected using temporary wooden platforms and scaffolding lashed to the rock, a process hampered by relentless swells and limited workable days—only nine over three and a half months in one season. The lighthouse was completed and first lit in September 1776 with oil lamps, which were later upgraded by 1817 with silvered copper parabolic reflectors to enhance the beam's intensity and range. Following completion, acquired the lighthouse via parliamentary act in 1778 and leased it back to for 99 years at an annual rent of £5.

Operations and Incidents

The original Smalls Lighthouse operated with a team of two keepers per shift, who shared cramped living quarters in the octagonal timber hut directly below the lantern room, a space measuring approximately 12 feet in diameter and designed to accommodate minimal furnishings and storage. Supplies, including food, oil for the lamps, and other essentials, were delivered quarterly by from the , weather permitting, due to the remote location and challenging seas around the Smalls . These deliveries were critical, as the keepers' cellar storeroom held provisions for extended periods, but storms often delayed relief and exacerbated isolation. In winter 1800-1801, the lighthouse experienced a harrowing incident known as the Smalls Lighthouse Tragedy, when keeper Thomas Griffith fell ill and died during a severe storm lasting approximately four months, leaving his colleague Thomas Howell alone on duty. Fearing accusations of upon relief—given the known quarrels between the two men—Howell constructed a from the hut's interior woodwork, placed Griffith's body inside, and lashed it to an external railing as visible proof of the natural death. Howell maintained the light single-handedly, enduring profound until a relief boat arrived in early 1802; the ordeal left him on the brink of madness from grief and the sight of the decomposing remains, which storms had partially destroyed. Another disaster struck in February 1833, when heavy weather and a massive wave damaged the structure, destroying parts of the keepers' living quarters, though no fatalities were recorded; the tower was repaired by engineers, underscoring the vulnerabilities of the wooden design to extreme weather in the . These events, particularly the 1801 tragedy, prompted to implement a new policy mandating at least three keepers for all remote lighthouses to mitigate the risks of isolation and ensure operational continuity during emergencies; this change was applied seasonally at Smalls, with three men on duty during winter months thereafter.

The Current Lighthouse

Building the Stone Tower

In 1857, Trinity House commissioned the construction of a new at Smalls Rock to replace the unstable wooden structure erected in 1776, which had proven inadequate against the relentless Atlantic gales and waves. The project was designed by James Walker, the engineer-in-chief to , drawing inspiration from John Smeaton's pioneering , with James Nicholas Douglass appointed as resident engineer to oversee the build. This marked Douglass's first major independent project under , emphasizing a robust tower to ensure long-term stability on the isolated, wave-battered . The tower, standing 41 meters tall, was constructed from interlocking dovetailed blocks sourced from quarries and precisely dressed onshore before transport to the site. These blocks were shipped via steam tugs and schooners from , then assembled directly on the rock, bolted together for maximum resistance to erosive forces. The foundation was excavated into the underlying and dolerite to provide a secure , with spanning from 1857 to 1861 at a total cost of £50,125. Once completed, the original wooden was demolished to clear the site fully. The lighting system represented a significant advancement, featuring a group flashing white catadioptric optic of the using a apparatus, producing flashes visible for 17 nautical miles, with a supplementary red sector light over nearby reefs. This setup replaced the less efficient oil lamps and reflectors of the prior structure, enhancing reliability for mariners navigating the treacherous approaches. The light was first exhibited on 7 August 1861, immediately fulfilling its role as a critical marker for shipping along the Welsh coast.

Automation and Present Day

In preparation for automation, a helideck was constructed above the lantern in 1978 to improve access for maintenance and relief operations. The lighthouse was fully automated in 1987 by , ending the era of resident keepers and transitioning to unmanned operation as part of a broader policy to modernize remote stations. Post-automation upgrades included conversion to sources in 1997, making Smalls Lighthouse the first in the to operate using wind and , supported by backup batteries and a . This sustainable system powers the light efficiently, reflecting advancements in offshore technology during the late . The structure was further restored in June 1997 when the tower was grit-blasted to expose its natural finish, removing the distinctive red and white stripes that had previously marked it. Today, Smalls Lighthouse serves as an active aid to navigation, owned and operated by with remote monitoring and control from their Planning Centre in , . Its 1st catadioptric optic produces a characteristic of three white flashes every 15 seconds, with an intensity of 39,800 and a nominal range of 18 nautical miles (33 km). The site is designated a Grade II by since 1998, recognizing its architectural and historical significance, and receives periodic maintenance to combat erosion from the surrounding wave-swept rocks.

Captain T. H. Sumner's Contribution

Captain Thomas Hubbard Sumner (1807–1876), an American , made a pivotal contribution to during a voyage from , to Greenock, , in late 1837. Facing heavy gales and thick fog that prevented reliable observations after passing longitude 21°W, Sumner's ship approached the Irish coast as a dangerous on December 18, 1837. At approximately 10 a.m., amid persistent poor visibility, he obtained a single altitude observation of the sun using a and noted the chronometer time, while relying on for an estimated position within 40 miles of Tuskar Light. Shortly thereafter, through the fog, the crew sighted Smalls Lighthouse bearing east-northeast, providing a critical visual reference that Sumner used to refine his calculations. Sumner's breakthrough came from analyzing this observation by assuming various latitudes around the dead reckoning estimate and computing corresponding , revealing that all valid positions lay along a straight line on the Mercator chart passing through the ship's location and directly toward Smalls Lighthouse. He realized that a single celestial sight, such as the sun's altitude, actually defined a circle of equal altitude on the Earth's surface—centered on the observed body's geographical position—rather than a single point, with the ship's location anywhere on that circle consistent with the measurement. By intersecting this circle (approximated as a straight "Sumner line" on the chart) with the dead reckoning track, he obtained a precise fix, correcting the dead reckoning error of about 8 miles in latitude and 31.5 minutes in , likely due to currents, , and log inaccuracies. This insight, directly enabled by the opportunistic sighting of Smalls Lighthouse in fog-bound conditions, transformed the reliability of celestial fixes from broad areas spanning miles to narrow lines accurate within yards when combined with additional data. Sumner detailed his method in the 1843 publication A New and Accurate Method of Finding a Ship's Position at Sea, including illustrative plates of equal altitude circles and practical tables for computation. The book was immediately endorsed by the Naval Library and Institute in Boston and adopted by the U.S. Navy for all ships that year, marking it as foundational to modern celestial navigation techniques, including later refinements like the Marcq St. Hilaire method. Its widespread influence was praised by authorities such as Lord Kelvin and featured in standard works like Bowditch's American Practical Navigator and Lecky's Wrinkles in Practical Navigation, establishing Sumner's approach as a cornerstone for safe maritime positioning.

Broader Maritime Importance

Prior to the erection of the first Smalls Lighthouse in 1776, the Smalls Reef represented a grave peril to maritime traffic in the approaches to the , where its extensive wave-washed rocks, combined with powerful tidal rips and overfalls, led to the loss of numerous vessels over centuries. Archaeological evidence, including an 11th-century guard recovered from the reef, underscores the long history of shipwrecks in the area, with the hazard claiming ships from as early as the medieval period through the age of sail. The lighthouse's establishment dramatically improved safety by providing a fixed warning point, contributing to a notable decline in wrecks attributed directly to the reef; while isolated incidents persisted into the late 19th and early 20th centuries—such as the steamship Cambro in —no major losses on the scale of the pre-lighthouse era were recorded after the 1861 stone tower's completion. In the 19th and 20th centuries, Smalls Lighthouse played a pivotal role in supporting the intensive coal trade that dominated the , one of the world's busiest export routes for steam-powered vessels carrying millions of tons of coal annually from Welsh ports to global markets. Its beam guided colliers navigating the hazardous , while during , it served as a critical assembly point for outbound convoys, with ships from ports joining formations a few miles south of the lighthouse before proceeding through . Integrated into the network since 1778 under an , the lighthouse formed part of a coordinated system safeguarding the coast and broader routes, ensuring reliable hazard marking amid increasing commercial and military traffic. The lighthouse's technological progression reflects broader advancements in maritime navigation, transitioning from its original visual oil-lamp beacon to modern electric lighting. Today, as an automated structure since and the UK's first powered by wind and , it integrates with positioning systems to support electronic chart systems and reduce reliance on visual signals alone. This evolution has sustained its effectiveness in averting collisions and groundings, with monitoring from Trinity House's Planning Centre enabling real-time adjustments to aids like its fog signal. On a global scale, the pioneering design by Henry Whiteside—a timber tower on iron stanchions elevated above the waves—served as an early example of engineering in exposed locations. The subsequent 1861 granite tower, engineered by James Walker and drawing on John Smeaton's Eddystone precedents, further exemplified robust rock-tower techniques that informed international standards for enduring maritime in severe conditions.

Cultural Depictions

Literature and Folklore

The 1801 tragedy at Smalls Lighthouse, involving keeper Thomas Howell's prolonged isolation with the corpse of his colleague Thomas Griffith, was first documented in detail in Ivor Emlyn's 1858 pamphlet The Smalls: A of the Old Light-House, Its Projector, and Builder, which drew on contemporary accounts and oral testimonies to describe the event's harrowing circumstances. Emlyn's work, published in Solva, , emphasized Howell's ingenious yet desperate efforts to preserve the body and signal for relief, portraying the incident as a stark illustration of maritime peril and human endurance. While specific 19th-century reports are scarce, the event's notoriety is corroborated by records, which noted the policy shift to require three keepers per remote station to prevent such solitary ordeals. In maritime , the Smalls Lighthouse became synonymous with haunting , often retold as a tale of psychological torment where Howell hallucinated Griffith's arm "waving" from the storm-battered , beckoning him toward . This legend, rooted in the real mechanics of sea swells animating the secured remains, contributed to perceptions of the site as cursed, with Welsh coastal traditions warning of signals luring ships to doom on the surrounding reefs. Such stories highlight themes of moral dilemmas—Howell's fear of being accused of —and the fragility of amid unrelenting , echoing broader seafaring motifs of and . Later scholarly works, such as Christopher P. Nicholson's Rock Lighthouses of (1983), revisited the tragedy through historical analysis, incorporating Emlyn's account to underscore its role in advancing lighthouse safety protocols. In the 20th and 21st centuries, the narrative inspired retellings like Roberts' 2021 essay "The Smalls Lighthouse Tragedy," which expands on archival details to explore the interpersonal tensions between Howell and Griffith. More recently, Kamal Khalaf's 2025 novel : A fictionalizes the ordeal, delving into themes of and while grounding its plot in the historical facts. These modern interpretations perpetuate the folklore's cautionary essence, emphasizing the 's legacy as a symbol of human limits in the face of nature's indifference.

Film and Opera

The 2019 psychological horror film The Lighthouse, directed by , draws loose inspiration from the 1801 Smalls Lighthouse tragedy, reimagining the themes of isolation and psychological strain through the story of two lighthouse keepers, Ephraim Winslow () and Thomas Wake (), trapped on a remote 1890s island during a storm. The black-and-white film, shot in a square to evoke early cinema, amplifies the horror elements of and myth, diverging from historical specifics to explore madness and . Earlier, the 2016 drama The Lighthouse, directed by Chris Crow, more directly adapts the Smalls incident, depicting keepers Thomas Howell and Thomas Griffiths (both played by dual-role actors) enduring a deadly storm and the ensuing ordeal of one surviving with the other's body for three months. In opera, the tragedy inspired The Lighthouse (2018), a chamber opera by composer Raymond Humphreys with libretto by Jack Lynch and Humphreys, premiered by the Evanston Chamber Opera. The work dramatizes the isolation and moral quandary faced by Howell, emphasizing and endurance. In audio-visual , the BBC Radio 4 drama The Lighthouse (2011), written by Alan Harris, dramatizes the exact events of the 1801 tragedy, focusing on Howell and Griffiths' desperate measures to lash Griffiths' corpse to the exterior rigging to signal distress upon relief's arrival. A 2021 episode of Channel 5's Building the Impossible, hosted by , documents the lighthouse's construction and the 1801 incident, highlighting the engineering feats and human toll that led to regulatory changes requiring at least three keepers per station. Recent online recreations have further amplified the tale, including the video "The Smalls Lighthouse Tragedy" by the channel Big Old Boats (November 2024), which narrates the event with historical reenactments and analysis of its maritime legacy, garnering over 450,000 views. Podcasts such as "Coast Files" (Episode 5, April 2024) and "The Revisionists" (Episode 98, October 2019) explore the psychological and historical dimensions, often tying the isolation-induced to broader themes in lighthouse lore. These depictions have significantly raised global awareness of the Smalls tragedy, transforming a localized into a of endurance and folly, though many exaggerate the or aspects for narrative impact, as seen in Eggers' which blends it with sea myths.

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