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Susan Feniger

Susan Feniger is an American chef, restaurateur, cookbook author, and television personality renowned for advancing global and Mexican-inspired cuisines in Los Angeles.^[1]^[2] She graduated from the Culinary Institute of America in 1977 and began her career working at notable establishments including Le Perroquet in Chicago and Ma Maison under Wolfgang Puck in Los Angeles.^[3]^[1] In partnership with Mary Sue Milliken, Feniger co-founded City Café in 1981 and CITY restaurant in 1985, establishing their reputation for innovative, border-crossing flavors.^[2] The duo later launched Border Grill, a flagship Modern Mexican concept with locations in Los Angeles and Las Vegas, alongside ventures like Socalo, Alice B. Toklas Bakery, BBQ Mexicana, and Pacha Mamas.^[1]^[2] They co-authored six cookbooks, including Susan Feniger’s Street Food, emphasizing street-inspired and sustainable dishes.^[2]^[1] Feniger and Milliken rose to national prominence co-hosting nearly 400 episodes of the Food Network series Too Hot Tamales in the 1990s, along with appearances on Top Chef Masters, PBS's Cooking with Master Chefs, and other programs.^[2] Their contributions earned the James Beard Award in 1985, the Julia Child Award in 2018, the Los Angeles Times Gold Award in 2018, and the California Restaurant Association's Lifetime Achievement Award in 2013.^[1]^[2] Feniger also serves on boards for organizations promoting sustainable aquaculture and scleroderma research, reflecting her commitment to culinary advocacy beyond restaurants.^[2]^[4]

Early Life and Education

Childhood and Initial Interests

Susan Feniger was born and raised in Ottawa Hills, a suburb of Toledo, Ohio, in a largely Russian Jewish family.^[3]^[5] Her mother's extensive home cooking, including dishes such as brisket, noodle pudding, kugel, and homemade fudge, profoundly inspired her early affinity for food preparation, with the family freezer often stocked for impromptu gatherings.^[3]^[2] Both parents maintained gardens, exposing her to fresh ingredients from a young age, while her father's ownership of a small flower shop introduced her to the fundamentals of hospitality and customer service.^[2] Feniger's initial encounters with ethnic cuisine within her family included her Aunt Faye's chicken liver-and-onion egg scramble and her Grandma Morgan's potato pierogis, marking her first steps beyond standard American fare.^[5] During high school, she secured a position at a local cafeteria, where the dynamics of food service began to captivate her, fostering an appreciation for the camaraderie and intensity of restaurant environments.^[2]^[6] Family outings, such as attending Toledo Mud Hens baseball games with her father followed by stops for fried bologna sandwiches, further embedded casual food enjoyment in her formative experiences.^[3] These early influences laid the groundwork for her transition from academic pursuits in business and economics to a dedicated interest in culinary arts.^[3]^[2]

Formal Training

Susan Feniger pursued formal culinary education at the Culinary Institute of America (CIA) in Hyde Park, New York, graduating in 1977 with an associate degree in Culinary Arts.^[3] Prior to this, she had been studying economics at Pitzer College in Claremont, California, but shifted focus after working in the college cafeteria under a former Army cook, which sparked her interest in cooking; she arranged an independent study through a Pitzer economics professor to enroll at CIA.^[3] The CIA program provided Feniger with classical training in French culinary techniques, emphasizing foundational skills in technique, precision, and professional kitchen operations.^[7] During her time at the institute, she supplemented her coursework with hands-on experience at a local fish market and in several French restaurants, bridging theoretical knowledge with practical application.^[2] This structured education distinguished Feniger from many peers who learned primarily on the job, equipping her with a rigorous, standardized foundation that propelled her early professional opportunities in high-profile kitchens.^[1]

Professional Career

Early Culinary Roles

Feniger's initial foray into professional cooking began during high school with a job at Smith's Cafeteria in Toledo, Ohio, where she handled basic food preparation tasks.^[8] ^[9] Following this, while attending college and studying economics and business, she worked in campus dining halls and part-time for a former army cook who encouraged her to pursue culinary training professionally.^[2] ^[10] After graduating from the Culinary Institute of America in 1977, Feniger secured her first high-profile kitchen position at Le Perroquet, a renowned French restaurant in Chicago, entering a predominantly male environment as one of the earliest women hired there.^[1] ^[3] ^[11] At Le Perroquet, she honed skills in classic French techniques under intense conditions, marking her transition from entry-level roles to fine-dining operations; this period also introduced her to Mary Sue Milliken, who had preceded her as one of the few female hires.^[12] ^[7] These early experiences at Le Perroquet laid foundational expertise in rigorous kitchen discipline, which Feniger later credited for building resilience amid the era's gender barriers in professional cooking.^[13] By late 1970s, she relocated to Los Angeles, taking preparatory roles that preceded collaborative ventures, though specifics on interim positions remain limited in documented accounts.^[14]

Partnership Formation and Key Collaborations

Feniger and Milliken met in the late 1970s while working as the first female line cooks at the acclaimed French restaurant Le Perroquet in Chicago, where Feniger had joined after graduating from the Culinary Institute of America.^[3]^[7] Their shared experiences in a male-dominated kitchen fostered a professional bond, leading them to relocate to Los Angeles together. In 1981, they formalized their partnership by opening City Cafe, a compact 35-seat venue on Melrose Avenue that showcased global influences drawn from their travels and training.^[14]^[15] This debut collaboration emphasized fresh, ingredient-driven dishes and marked one of the earliest instances of women chefs launching an independent restaurant in Los Angeles.^[16] The duo's partnership gained momentum with the 1985 launch of Border Grill, initially a modest 40-seat "taco stand" on Melrose Avenue dedicated to authentic yet innovative Mexican cuisine inspired by their research trips to Mexico.^[16] This venture shifted their focus toward regional Mexican flavors, earning critical praise and a James Beard Foundation award for the concept, while establishing them as pioneers in elevating Mexican food beyond stereotypes in American dining.^[17] They later relocated City Cafe to a larger space, rebranding it as CITY, which operated from the early 1980s until its closure in 1994 and featured pan-international menus blending Asian, Latin, and European elements.^[18]^[19] Key collaborations extended beyond restaurants to media and publishing, including their co-hosting of the Food Network series Too Hot Tamales in the 1990s, which aired nearly 400 episodes demystifying Mexican cooking techniques and ingredients for a broad audience.^[20] Together, they authored multiple cookbooks, such as City Cuisine (1989) and Fruits of the Grill (1990), which documented their fusion approaches and research-driven recipes.^[21] Their enduring alliance, spanning over 40 years, culminated in the formation of Mundo Hospitality Group, overseeing ventures like Socalo (opened 2019) and Alice B. in Palm Springs (2023), alongside catering and food truck operations that adapted to market shifts.^[22]^[23] This partnership has been attributed to mutual respect, complementary skills—Feniger's creativity paired with Milliken's precision—and a commitment to ethical sourcing and sustainability.^[14]^[24]

Restaurant Developments

Feniger partnered with Mary Sue Milliken to open City Café in Los Angeles in 1981, marking their entry into the city's restaurant scene with a focus on Southwestern and Latin-inspired dishes that emphasized fresh ingredients and bold flavors.^[14] ^[25] The venture evolved into the larger CITY Restaurant by 1985, expanding their influence in fine dining while introducing innovative techniques drawn from their travels.^[26] In 1985, the duo launched Border Grill on Melrose Avenue as a compact 40-seat operation styled as a taco stand, prioritizing light, healthful modern Mexican cuisine with an emphasis on regional authenticity and vibrant seasonings.^[16] This concept proved foundational, leading to expansions including a Las Vegas outpost at Mandalay Bay Resort in 1999, which brought their approach to a broader audience on the Strip.^[27] Further growth included the 2009 introduction of the Border Grill food truck for mobile service and Border Grill Stop kiosks in 2010, adapting their menu for casual, on-the-go consumption.^[28] The partnership continued with Ciudad's debut in downtown Los Angeles in 1998, a space dedicated to Latin fusion that integrated diverse culinary traditions from Spain, Mexico, and South America.^[29] In 2010, this location transitioned into Border Grill Downtown LA, refining the Mexican focus while maintaining the site's role in urban dining.^[30] Feniger's independent project, STREET, opened in Hollywood in March 2009, showcasing global street foods inspired by her international research trips, such as Indian vada pav and Moldovan placinte, presented in a casual format.^[31] ^[32] By December 2013, she repurposed the site as Mud Hen Tavern, shifting to seasonal American pub fare with gourmet twists like elevated bar snacks and hearth-roasted dishes.^[33] Recent developments under their Mundo Hospitality Group include Socalo in Santa Monica, opened in December 2019 as a Mexican pub blending California and regional Mexican elements.^[22] In December 2023, Alice B. debuted in Palm Springs, offering New American Californian menus centered on seasonal produce with French and Mediterranean accents.^[34] These ventures reflect ongoing adaptation to local markets and evolving tastes.^[20]

Media and Publishing Contributions

Feniger has co-authored six cookbooks, primarily in collaboration with Mary Sue Milliken, focusing on Mexican and global street food cuisines.^[1] These include City Cuisine (1989), Mesa Mexicana (1994), and Cantina: The Best of Casual Mexican Cooking, which emphasize accessible interpretations of regional flavors.^[35] Her solo-authored Susan Feniger's Street Food: Irresistibly Crispy, Creamy, Crunchy, Spicy, Sticky, Sweet Recipes (2011) draws from international travels, featuring dishes like Indonesian gado-gado and Thai street snacks adapted for home cooks.^[36] In television, Feniger gained prominence co-hosting Too Hot Tamales on Food Network from 1995 to 1998, producing 396 episodes that showcased bold, fusion cooking techniques alongside Milliken.^[37] The series extended to Tamales World Tour, exploring global cuisines on location. She appeared in Julia Child's Cooking with Master Chefs (1993–1996), demonstrating Thai and Indian influences, and competed as a finalist on Bravo's Top Chef Masters in 2010, where her inventive dishes earned praise from judges.^[38] Additional guest roles include judging on Worst Cooks in America (2010) and appearing on Family Feud (2010).^[39] On radio, Feniger and Milliken served as original co-hosts of KCRW's Good Food in Los Angeles, pioneering food-centric broadcasting by discussing culinary trends, recipes, and interviews with industry figures during the 1990s and early 2000s.^[1] These platforms established Feniger as an early influencer in food media, predating the explosion of celebrity chef programming, and contributed to popularizing multicultural street foods in American households.^[40]

Awards and Professional Recognition

Feniger and her longtime collaborator Mary Sue Milliken have received multiple joint honors for pioneering Mexican and global flavors in American cuisine. In 2013, they were awarded the California Restaurant Association's Lifetime Achievement Award, recognizing their enduring influence on the industry.^[41] In 2014, the pair was inducted into the MenuMasters Hall of Fame during ceremonies in Chicago, acknowledged for elevating Mexican cuisine through innovative menu development and broad cultural impact.^[42] The year 2018 marked significant recognition, as Feniger and Milliken became the first duo and the first women to receive the Julia Child Award from the Julia Child Foundation for Gastronomy and the Culinary Institute of America, honoring their transformative contributions to culinary education, entrepreneurship, and diverse street food influences.^[43]^[44] That same year, they earned the Los Angeles Times Gold Award for excellence and innovation in Southern California cuisine.^[2] Feniger is frequently described in professional profiles as a James Beard Award-winning chef, with the accolade tied to the broader validation of her and Milliken's national culinary footprint following key restaurant openings.^[1]^[45]

Business Challenges and Adaptations

Restaurant Setbacks and Closures

In 1994, Feniger and her longtime collaborator Mary Sue Milliken closed their flagship City Restaurant on La Brea Avenue in Los Angeles after 13 years of operation, amid challenging economic conditions for the city's restaurant industry.^[15] The venue, which had pioneered pan-global cuisine, was sold to restaurateur Ron Salisbury, who relocated his Sonora Cafe to the space; no exact closure date was set, but operations were expected to continue for at least six weeks following the March 27 announcement.^[15] Feniger expressed regret over the end, stating, "I wish I could say we are going to be around for 25 years, but that just wasn’t meant to be," while highlighting the strength of their newer Border Grill outpost in Santa Monica.^[15] Feniger faced further closures in 2016, including the shuttering of Mud Hen Tavern in Hollywood, which she had rebranded from her earlier Street concept in 2013.^[46] The gastropub-style venue at 742 N. Highland Avenue ceased operations on October 11, 2016, with staff notified shortly beforehand; Street had originally debuted in 2009 as a global street-food showcase but underwent the transformation to appeal to neighborhood diners with American comfort fare.^[46] ^[33] That same year, Feniger and Milliken announced the closure of the original Border Grill in Santa Monica after 26 years, with the Fourth Street location ending service in mid-October.^[47] The decision followed a period of reflection, during which the owners hosted farewell events featuring throwback menu items and expressed appreciation for patrons and staff; they indicated plans to retool the space for a new, unspecified concept while maintaining other Border Grill outposts.^[47] Specific factors such as lease terms or market shifts were not detailed publicly, though the timing aligned with broader pressures on legacy restaurants in high-rent coastal areas.^[47]

Responses to Criticisms

Feniger has responded to critiques of her Street restaurant (2009–2014), which drew complaints for charging upscale prices—often $10–20 per dish—for food inspired by global street vendors, diverging from low-cost authenticity expectations. In a 2009 Los Angeles Times profile, this pricing mismatch was highlighted as a key detractor amid otherwise positive reception for its bold flavors and execution. Feniger countered by framing the concept as an intentional elevation of street food traditions using premium ingredients and refined techniques, arguing it brought underrepresented cuisines like Hungarian lángos or Filipino kwek-kwek to American diners in a sustainable restaurant format rather than literal replication.^[48] After Street's closure due to financial pressures including high operational costs in Los Angeles' competitive market, Feniger rejected labeling it a total failure, noting in 2023 interviews that "lots of restaurants open and close" and emphasizing enduring customer loyalty, with patrons later approaching her to call it their "favorite restaurant experience ever."^[49] She positioned the venture's end as a pivotal lesson in resilience, stating the true measure of success lies in "how you deal with failure" by scraping oneself "off the sidewalk" to innovate further, as explored in the 2024 documentary Forked, which documents her subsequent pop-up experiments and underscores ambition's costs without defeatism.^[49]^[50] Regarding Border Grill closures, such as the Santa Monica location after 26 years in 2016 amid rising rents and shifting dining trends, Feniger and partner Mary Sue Milliken attributed setbacks to external economic factors rather than conceptual flaws, pivoting to airport licensing deals and new formats like Socalo to sustain their Mexican-inspired empire. Feniger has addressed implied partnership strains—occasionally speculated in media—by crediting regular therapy for their longevity since 1985, quipping it as the "secret" to navigating disputes without romanticizing or denying tensions.^[51]^[52] This pragmatic adaptation counters narratives of decline, with Feniger affirming in 2025 reflections that business evolution demands flexibility over clinging to originals.^[6]

Personal Life

Family Background and Relationships

Feniger was born in Toledo, Ohio, to parents Ruth Alice Feniger and Yale Feniger, and raised in the suburb of Ottawa Hills, where she attended high school.^[53]^[54] Her mother provided early culinary inspiration through extensive home cooking and meal preparation, while family connections to Toledo persisted, with her father and brother residing there into adulthood.^[2]^[55] She maintains family ties, including with her nephew, actor Ben Feldman, whom she has publicly featured in collaborative cooking segments and social media posts.^[56]^[57] Feniger was married to Josh Schweitzer for eight or nine years, with the union officiated by a Justice of the Peace as a Father's Day gift to her father; the couple separated in the early 1990s.^[58] Schweitzer subsequently married Feniger's longtime business partner Mary Sue Milliken, with whom he has two sons. Identifying as a lesbian, Feniger entered a committed relationship with filmmaker Liz Lachman in the mid-1990s, referring to her as her wife; the couple marked 25 years together by 2020 and over 30 years as of 2025, collaborating professionally including on the 2023 documentary Susan Feniger. FORKED.^[59]^[60]^[61]

Identity and Advocacy

Susan Feniger identifies as a lesbian and has been openly so throughout much of her professional career in the culinary industry.^[62]^[63] She previously married Josh Schweitzer in the early years of her career, but later came out as gay, with Schweitzer subsequently marrying her longtime business partner Mary Sue Milliken.^[58] Feniger's current partner is Liz Lachman.^[60] As one of the few openly lesbian celebrity chefs, she has emphasized the importance of visibility in a male-dominated field, noting that her gender presented greater barriers than her sexual orientation.^[63] Feniger actively advocates for LGBTQ causes, serving as co-chair of the board of the Los Angeles LGBT Center, where she contributes to efforts supporting the community amid challenges like the COVID-19 pandemic.^[63] She has participated in fundraisers, such as auctioning cooking classes to raise $30,000 for the Center in 2009, and hosts events like culinary fundraisers to advance LGBTQ initiatives.^[64]^[62] Feniger describes LGBTQ issues as "near and dear to her heart," leveraging her platform to promote inclusivity and support through her involvement in the Center's programs.^[62]^[65]

Philanthropy and Community Involvement

Feniger has leveraged her culinary expertise to support social causes, particularly through food distribution, training programs, and fundraising events that address hunger, homelessness, and health research. In partnership with Mary Sue Milliken, she co-launched the Feed Folks initiative during the COVID-19 pandemic, delivering over 12,000 meals weekly to first responders, healthcare workers, food-insecure seniors, and unhoused individuals in Los Angeles.^[2] A key focus has been her leadership in the Los Angeles LGBT Center's culinary efforts, where as a board member she has driven expansions including a professional-grade kitchen at the Anita May Rosenstein campus, opened in early 2019. This facility supports the center's annual provision of over 74,000 meals to clients, with Feniger advocating for programs that pair meal service with skill-building. In 2019, she helped launch the Culinary Arts Program, a three-month training course for LGBTQ+ youth and seniors aimed at preparing participants for jobs in restaurants and hospitality.^[66]^[2] Feniger also contributes to anti-hunger organizations via advisory roles, serving on the Culinary Council of Three Square, a Las Vegas-area food bank dedicated to ending hunger through food rescue and distribution. Additionally, as a founding board member of the Scleroderma Research Foundation, she co-chairs the annual Cool Comedy • Hot Cuisine benefit, where she and Milliken prepare multi-course meals for attendees; the 2024 event raised over $1.3 million for scleroderma research. These efforts underscore her use of cooking as a tool for community support and fundraising, often integrating global flavors from her restaurant background.^[67]^[68]

Board Roles and Causes

Feniger joined the Scleroderma Research Foundation as a founding board member in 1988, motivated by her close friendship with founder Sharon Monsky, who succumbed to the disease.^[69] In this capacity, she has driven culinary aspects of the organization's flagship fundraising event, Cool Comedy • Hot Cuisine, to support research aimed at curing scleroderma, a chronic autoimmune condition affecting connective tissues.^[69] She serves as co-chair of the Los Angeles LGBT Center's board of directors and co-chairs its Culinary Arts Program, initiated in 2019 as a 12-week vocational training course equipping LGBTQ+ youth and seniors with hospitality and restaurant skills for employment opportunities.^[70]^[2] This involvement advances causes of community empowerment and economic inclusion for sexual minorities through practical workforce development.^[2] Feniger also holds a position on the [L.A.](/page/L(a) Tourism & Convention Board, contributing to efforts that promote Los Angeles' culinary scene and hospitality infrastructure to attract visitors and bolster local business.^[2]^[1] These board commitments underscore her dedication to targeted philanthropy in health innovation, social equity for LGBTQ+ individuals, and regional economic vitality via tourism.^[2]

References

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Susan Feniger Bio | Border Grill Co-Chef/Owner
Susan Feniger is an iconic culinarian, author, entrepreneur, and co-owner of Mundo Hospitality Group, which she runs with her business partner, Mary Sue ...Missing: biography | Show results with:biography
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Culinarian, author, and entrepreneur Susan Feniger is known for Border Grill, the Modern Mexican restaurants, trucks, and catering business she runs.
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Dec 22, 2011 · As a kid from a largely Russian Jewish family, my first introduction to any kind of ethnic food was my Aunt Faye's chicken liver-and onion egg ...
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Feb 16, 2025 · Feniger's journey began in Toledo, Ohio, where she discovered a love for the camaraderie and pressure of restaurant work. She convinced her ...
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Jan 20, 2016 · The event, which naturally takes place on February 29, is going down at the Border Grill location Downtown and will feature a variety of classic ...
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Appearances · 35 credits ; 2010. Worst Cooks in America (TV Series) · as Self - Judge & Restauranteur & Cookbook Author ; 2010. Family Feud (TV Series) · as Self.
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Sep 14, 2016 · LA Restaurant Closings. Hollywood's Mud Hen Tavern Closes for Good on October 11. The Susan Feniger spot works one last month of service. by ...
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Aug 29, 2016 · Come mid-October, the restaurant will be no more. In a message sent around by the pair, there are plans for a few big send-offs between now and ...
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Oct 3, 2012 · Susan Feniger was attending Ottawa Hills High School in suburban Toledo when a trip to the Netherlands changed everything.
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Aug 12, 2014 · Chef Susan Feniger and her nephew and Mad Men star Ben Feldman are making melon salad. Is Ben as good in the kitchen as he is on camera?
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[59]
Mary Sue Milliken - Wikipedia
In collaboration with Feniger and others, Milliken has published five ... "Featured Chef: Chefs Mary Sue Milliken And Susan Feniger". chef2chef.net ...
[60]
Susan Feniger + Liz Lachman, celebrity chef and filmmaker, Los ...
Dec 1, 2020 · Susan and Liz talk about their 25 years together, Midwestern accents, arepas, music, and the ways that success has or hasn't changed them.
[61]
Susan Feniger: A Culinary Life Rooted in Joy, Curiosity, and LGBTQ ...
May 29, 2025 · Before she was a celebrated chef, restaurateur, and television personality, Susan Feniger was a college student majoring in economics—until ...
[62]
Chef Susan Feniger & Liz Lachman Premiere New Documentary
Nov 9, 2023 · They've been married for a long while, so Forked is Lachman capturing Feniger's life and creative process on film as only a partner could.
[63]
Susan Feniger, lesbian celeb chef, tops LA's food festival scene
May 25, 2018 · When gay celebrity chef Susan Feniger isn't creating new restaurant concepts with her business partner Mary Sue Milliken, the much loved ...
[64]
Chef Susan Feniger Is Cooking With Fire to Protect Restaurants
Dec 8, 2020 · The lesbian creator of some of L.A. and Las Vegas's hippest Mexican restaurants reflects on her nearly four decades in the industry -- and ...
[65]
Susan Feniger talks restaurants and food - Greg In Hollywood
Sep 19, 2009 · She's is an active member of the LGBT community and last month raised $30,000 for the LA Gay & Lesbian Center by auctionung off group cooking ...Missing: orientation | Show results with:orientation
[66]
Susan Feniger | RE: Her LA
Feniger is an active member of the community, and currently sits on the boards of the Los Angeles LGBT Center, Scleroderma Research Foundation, and L.A. ...Missing: personal life identity advocacy
[67]
How the Los Angeles LGBT Center Serves 74000 Meals a Year
Oct 7, 2016 · Behind the culinary initiative is Susan Feniger, a board member at the LGBT center and one of Los Angeles's best-known chefs. Along with her ...
[68]
Susan Feniger - Three Square
Susan Feniger is an iconic culinarian, author, entrepreneur, and co-owner of Mundo Hospitality Group, which she runs with her business partner, Mary Sue ...Missing: media | Show results with:media
[69]
Cool Comedy • Hot Cuisine Raises more than $1.3 million for ...
Oct 31, 2024 · Hosted by Jeff Ross, and co-chaired by SRF Board Members Susan Feniger and Regina Hall alongside Caroline Hirsch and Kelly Rizzo, the signature ...
[70]
Susan Feniger | SRF Board - Scleroderma Research Foundation
Iconic culinarian, author, and entrepreneur Susan Feniger may be best known for her Modern Mexican concept, Border Grill restaurants, trucks, and catering.Missing: biography | Show results with:biography
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Staff - Los Angeles LGBT Center
Board of Directors. Tess Ayers, Secretary; LuAnn Boylan; Alex Cohen; Kim Culmone; Sarah Dusseault; Susan Feniger, Co-Chair; Alfred Fraijo, Jr. Jordan Held ...