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Beartooth Highway

The Beartooth Highway is a 68-mile (110 km) segment of U.S. Highway 212 that serves as one of America's most scenic drives, connecting the town of Red Lodge, Montana, to the Northeast Entrance of Yellowstone National Park near Cooke City, Montana.^[1] Winding through the rugged Beartooth Mountains, it ascends more than 5,000 feet in elevation, culminating at Beartooth Pass at 10,947 feet (3,337 m), the highest drivable point in the region.^[1]^[2] Designated a National Scenic Byway and All-American Road, the highway showcases dramatic switchbacks, over 20 peaks exceeding 12,000 feet (3,658 m), and more than 950 alpine lakes amid glacially carved landscapes.^[1] Construction of the Beartooth Highway was authorized under the National Park Approaches Act of 1931, which aimed to enhance access to national parks amid the Great Depression, with work commencing in the summer of 1932.^[3] The project, funded by $2.5 million in federal appropriations, employed thousands of workers using manual tools and early machinery to navigate steep terrain, glacial boulders, and extreme weather, resulting in two fatalities and significant delays from contractor bankruptcies.^[3]^[4] Completed under budget by the end of 1935 and officially opened on June 14, 1936, the road revolutionized travel to Yellowstone by providing a direct, high-elevation alternative to longer routes.^[4]^[2] The highway traverses the ancient Beartooth Mountains, part of the Custer Gallatin National Forest in Montana and the Shoshone National Forest in Wyoming, where rocks preserve up to 3.96 billion years of Earth's history, including zircon crystals and layered mafic intrusions from 2.7 billion years ago.^[5] Uplifted during the Laramide Orogeny 70–40 million years ago and shaped by Pleistocene glaciations, the area features alpine tundra, diverse wildflowers, and peaks like Granite Peak, Montana's highest at 12,799 feet (3,901 m).^[5]^[1] Due to annual snowfall exceeding 300 inches and temperatures dropping below -40°F (-40°C) in winter, the route is seasonally closed, generally opening around Memorial Day weekend and accessible until mid- to late October, with maintenance handled by the Montana Department of Transportation up to the state line and the National Park Service thereafter.^[6]^[1] Popular for hiking, camping, fishing, and wildlife observation—including grizzly bears, moose, and bighorn sheep—the highway draws over 500,000 visitors annually, though sudden weather changes necessitate preparedness for fog, storms, and avalanches.^[2]^[6]

Overview

Route summary

The Beartooth Highway is a 68-mile stretch of U.S. Route 212 that serves as the primary overland connection between Red Lodge, Montana, and Cooke City, Montana, providing access to the northeast entrance of Yellowstone National Park.^[1]^[2] Running generally east to west, the highway traverses the Beartooth Mountains, crossing from Carbon County in Montana into Park County in Wyoming before re-entering Montana near its western end.^[2] The route begins with a steep ascent from Red Lodge, featuring tight switchbacks that climb approximately 5,000 feet through forested terrain into higher elevations.^[1] As it progresses westward, the highway reaches its highest point at Beartooth Pass around mile 20 from the start, then follows a series of zigzagging turns along the Montana-Wyoming border before descending toward Cooke City, with notable pullouts and overlooks marking major elevation changes along the way.^[2]^[1]

Significance and designations

The Beartooth Highway was designated a National Scenic Byway in 1989 and elevated to All-American Road status in 2002 by the U.S. Department of Transportation as part of the National Scenic Byways Program, recognizing its exceptional scenic, historic, recreational, and natural qualities.^[7] This places it among America's Byways, a collection of nationally significant roads that highlight the country's diverse landscapes and cultural heritage. Renowned broadcaster Charles Kuralt famously called the Beartooth Highway "the most beautiful roadway in America" during his CBS series On the Road, a nickname that has endured and contributed to its iconic status among scenic drives.^[8] It frequently appears in rankings as one of the top-10 scenic drives in the United States, such as in lists of the best routes in the Northern Rockies, drawing acclaim for its dramatic alpine vistas and engineering feat.^[9]^[10] The highway holds significant economic and cultural importance in promoting tourism to the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem, serving as a vital gateway that connects remote wilderness areas to broader regional attractions and supports local communities in Montana and Wyoming.^[11] A 2013 economic impact study by the University of Montana's Institute for Tourism and Recreation Research estimated that visitor spending along the route generated approximately $53 million annually in total economic output for nearby areas, including $23 million in direct benefits to Cody, Wyoming alone.^[12] Attracting over 500,000 visitors each summer season, it fosters cultural appreciation for the region's natural heritage while bolstering jobs in hospitality, recreation, and related sectors.^[11]

Geography and features

Terrain and elevation

The Beartooth Highway ascends dramatically from an elevation of approximately 5,600 feet near Red Lodge, Montana, to its highest point at Beartooth Pass, reaching 10,947 feet above sea level, making it one of the highest paved roads in the Northern Rocky Mountains.^[1] This elevation gain of over 5,000 feet occurs along a 68-mile route that crests the pass before descending into Wyoming.^[13] The pass itself offers expansive views of the surrounding high-altitude plateau, where the road levels out into a broad, relatively flat expanse at around 10,000 feet before the final descent.^[1] The terrain features steep grades reaching up to 6-7% over extended sections, particularly during the initial ascent from Red Lodge, where the road climbs sharply through a series of over 20 tight switchbacks within the first 10 miles.^[14] These switchbacks, combined with the narrow roadway and abrupt elevation changes, create a challenging path that winds through rugged mountain slopes, requiring careful navigation to manage the inclines and curves.^[7] Beyond the initial climb, the highway transitions to gentler slopes across the alpine plateau, though occasional steeper sections up to 10% persist near the pass. As the highway climbs, it traverses a striking progression of ecosystems, beginning in lower-elevation sagebrush plains and open grasslands near Red Lodge, then entering dense subalpine forests dominated by lodgepole pine and other conifers around 7,000-9,000 feet.^[9] Higher up, near 9,500 feet and above, the landscape shifts to tundra-like plateaus characterized by sparse vegetation, wildflowers in summer, and rocky expanses with minimal tree cover, reflecting the harsh alpine conditions at these altitudes.^[1] This vertical zonation highlights the highway's path through diverse climatic and biotic zones within a compact distance.^[15] Geologically, the highway cuts through the Absaroka and Beartooth mountain ranges, which form part of the northern Rocky Mountains and expose a complex of ancient rock formations uplifted during the Laramide Orogeny approximately 70-40 million years ago.^[5] The Beartooth Range consists primarily of Precambrian granitic and metamorphic rocks, including gneisses and granites dating back 2.5-4 billion years, while the adjacent Absaroka Range features Eocene volcanic rocks from massive eruptions around 50 million years ago.^[16] Road cuts along the route reveal these contrasts, with granitic outcrops in the higher plateaus and volcanic layers in the lower canyons, shaped further by Pleistocene glaciation that carved U-shaped valleys and cirques.^[17]

Natural landmarks

The Beartooth Plateau, a vast high-elevation expanse in the Absaroka-Beartooth Wilderness, features rugged mountain peaks, expansive alpine tundra, lingering glaciers, and diverse wildflower meadows shaped by ancient geologic uplift and Pleistocene glaciation.^[18] This plateau, uplifted during the Laramide Orogeny approximately 70–40 million years ago, exposes some of the oldest rocks on Earth, dating back over 3 billion years, and serves as a prominent geological feature along the highway's upper reaches.^[19]^[20] Prominent peaks visible from the highway include Index Peak, rising to 11,321 feet (3,451 meters), and the adjacent Pilot Peak at 11,708 feet (3,569 meters), both in the Absaroka Range, contributing to the dramatic skyline visible from the highway, formed by Eocene volcanic rocks.^[21] These twin summits, often viewed together from pullouts near the highway, exemplify the region's steep escarpments and glacial cirques carved during multiple ice ages.^[22] Several alpine lakes punctuate the plateau, formed primarily by glacial activity that scoured U-shaped valleys and deposited moraines during the Pleistocene epoch. Lake Helen, a pristine tarn nestled amid rocky moraines, reflects surrounding peaks and exemplifies post-glacial landscape evolution in the high country.^[22] Nearby, Island Lake at 9,518 feet (2,900 meters) occupies a glacial basin with emerald waters fed by snowmelt, while Long Lake, a 80-acre glacial-lobe feature bounded by granite boulders, highlights the erosive power of ancient ice sheets.^[23]^[24] The highway's high-elevation zones support diverse wildlife habitats, including alpine tundra and subalpine forests that sustain species adapted to extreme conditions. Grizzly bears roam the broader Beartooth ecosystem, utilizing the area's berry-rich slopes and streams for foraging, while mountain goats navigate sheer cliffs and rocky outcrops in search of lichens and grasses.^[25] Pikas, small lagomorphs endemic to talus fields, inhabit the rocky scree slopes, caching vegetation for winter survival in this harsh, low-oxygen environment.^[25] Key vista points along the route offer unobstructed panoramas of these features, enhancing appreciation of the natural terrain. The Summit Overlook at 10,947 feet (3,336 meters) provides 360-degree views of glacial valleys, snow-capped peaks, and the sprawling plateau, marking the highway's highest elevation.^[26] The "Top of the World" area, near a remote outpost at 9,396 feet (2,863 meters), delivers sweeping vistas of alpine lakes and distant ridges, underscoring the highway's remote, otherworldly isolation.^[26]

History

Planning and construction

The idea for the Beartooth Highway originated in the early 20th century, with initial efforts dating back to 1915 through the Black and White Trail project aimed at connecting the Red Lodge area to Yellowstone National Park. By the 1920s, as automobile travel surged in popularity, Montana and Wyoming officials, along with local proponents from mining communities like Red Lodge and Cooke City, intensified lobbying in the U.S. Congress for a new route across the Beartooth Plateau. These proposals emphasized economic benefits such as improved access for timber and mining operations, though tourism potential was also noted; a federal survey was completed by October 1927, paving the way for funding approval under the National Park Approaches Act signed by President Herbert Hoover in January 1931.^[4]^[3] Construction commenced in the summer of 1932 as a major Great Depression-era public works initiative, providing essential employment opportunities in the wake of the 1929 stock market crash; thousands of workers, including local laborers paid 50 to 75 cents per hour for manual tasks, were involved across the 68-mile project. The effort was managed by the Bureau of Public Roads, with crews advancing from both the Montana and Wyoming sides, tackling the rugged terrain without modern heavy machinery—relying instead on picks, shovels, pry bars, and dynamite for clearing paths. Engineering challenges were immense, including blasting through solid granite formations to carve switchbacks and tunnels, as well as constructing extensive retaining walls and bridges over creeks to stabilize the steep slopes and prevent rockslides; notable feats included hand-building walls up to 25 feet high in constrained ravines, resulting in two fatalities amid the hazardous conditions. The total cost reached $2.5 million, equivalent to approximately $58 million in 2025 dollars, reflecting the project's scale and the era's labor-intensive methods.^[4]^[3]^[27] The highway was fully completed by the end of the 1935 construction season, with final installations of guardrails and signage, though the project faced significant delays due to contractor bankruptcies, and it officially opened to traffic on June 14, 1936, marking a triumphant link between Red Lodge, Montana, and the northeast entrance of Yellowstone National Park via Cooke City, Montana.^[4]^[3]

Closures and maintenance

The Beartooth Highway is annually closed from mid-October to late May due to heavy snowfall and severe winter conditions at high elevations.^[6] Snow accumulation at the pass can reach depths of up to 25 feet (300 inches), necessitating extensive plowing efforts each spring before reopening on the Friday of Memorial Day weekend, weather permitting.^[28] These predictable seasonal closures allow for routine maintenance but highlight the road's vulnerability to alpine weather patterns. A major disruption occurred in May 2005 when mudslides and rockslides damaged 13 sections totaling about 12 miles of the highway, primarily on the Montana side, leading to a full closure for the summer season.^[29] Repairs involved a $20.4 million reconstruction contract, including realignment and stabilization work, with partial reopening in October 2005 and full access restored by Memorial Day 2006.^[30] Subsequent incidents have included washouts from heavy rains and snowmelt, such as those in June 2022 that damaged six locations and required extensive repairs before reopening later that summer, and a small avalanche in spring 2024 that caused minor damage, delaying the opening until late May.^[31]^[32] These events underscore ongoing risks from erosion and geological instability in the rugged terrain. Maintenance of the Beartooth Highway is a collaborative effort, with the Montana Department of Transportation (MDT) responsible for the section from Red Lodge to the Montana-Wyoming border, including annual snow removal, resurfacing, and rockfall mitigation.^[6] The Wyoming portion falls under the National Park Service (NPS), which handles clearing, repairs, and upkeep through Yellowstone National Park, while the U.S. Forest Service (Custer Gallatin National Forest) provides support for adjacent lands and occasional funding for improvements.^[6] Annual resurfacing and guardrail replacements are standard to address wear from heavy tourist traffic and environmental stresses.^[28]

Access and operations

Seasonal availability

The Beartooth Highway typically opens for the season on the Friday of Memorial Day weekend in late May and remains accessible until mid-October, though exact dates depend on snowmelt conditions and the completion of plowing efforts by Montana Department of Transportation (MDT) and Wyoming Department of Transportation (WYDOT) crews.^[6]^[33] In 2025, it opened on May 23 but closed early on October 3 due to winter weather, earlier than the typical mid-October target.^[34]^[35] These timelines can shift due to variable spring thaws at elevations exceeding 10,000 feet, where deep snow accumulation often delays full clearance until early June in heavier snow years.^[6]^[36] Weather plays a critical role in operations, with sudden blizzards or early fall snowfalls potentially causing temporary or early-season closures even during the open period, as high winds and rapid temperature drops exacerbate accumulation on steep grades.^[6]^[37] Travelers can monitor real-time conditions and delays through the MDT 511 app or website (511mt.net) and WYDOT's wyoroad.info platform, which provide live updates on plowing progress, weather advisories, and any restrictions.^[6]^[38] Historical closures related to severe weather events are documented separately, highlighting the highway's vulnerability to alpine conditions.^[6] During winter months, when the highway is fully closed, alternative access to the Cooke City area is available via the Chief Joseph Scenic Byway (Wyoming Highway 296), a year-round route from Cody, Wyoming, that connects through Sunlight Basin, though it receives limited maintenance beyond its junction with US 212 and may require caution in unplowed sections.^[39] For those approaching from further afield, air travel to nearby airports such as Billings (Montana) or Cody (Wyoming), followed by driving the Chief Joseph Byway or the year-round North Entrance road into Yellowstone National Park, provides the primary overland option to reach Cooke City.^[40]^[41] In shoulder seasons (late May/early June and September/early October), preparation is essential due to lingering or returning winter conditions; Wyoming enforces a Level 1 chain law on US 212 during hazardous weather, requiring vehicles to be equipped with tire chains, adequate snow tires, or all-wheel/four-wheel drive with snow tires.^[42]^[38] Montana permits studded winter tires from October 1 to May 31 and mandates chains in severe conditions, so drivers should verify forecasts and carry traction devices regardless of jurisdiction.^[43] Always consult MDT and WYDOT resources for the latest advisories to plan safe passage.^[6]^[42]

Safety considerations

The Beartooth Highway presents several road characteristics that require vigilant driving, including narrow lanes measuring approximately 9 to 12 feet wide, steep drop-offs along much of the route with limited or no guardrails, and frequent hairpin turns that can include blind corners and switchbacks.^[44]^[45] Weather conditions along the highway can change rapidly due to its high elevation, posing significant risks such as sudden temperature drops exceeding 30 degrees Fahrenheit in minutes, dense fog reducing visibility, and intense thunderstorms accompanied by hail or heavy rain; travelers are strongly advised to monitor forecasts from reliable sources like the National Weather Service before departure.^[6]^[46]^[47] Regulatory measures aim to enhance safety on this challenging route, with posted speed limits generally ranging from 25 to 45 mph in curvy and elevated sections—though some straighter areas allow up to 80 mph—emphasizing the need to drive slower than the limit in hazardous spots; vehicles longer than 30 feet, such as large RVs, face difficulties navigating tight turns and are discouraged, while drivers are required to yield and use designated pullouts to facilitate passing by oncoming traffic.^[48]^[49]^[50] The highway's remote location contributes to its reputation as one of Montana's most dangerous roads, where accidents frequently stem from speeding, inattention, or weather-related factors, and response times for emergency services are prolonged due to limited access and infrastructure.^[51]^[52]

Tourism and recreation

Visitor attractions

The Beartooth Scenic Byway Visitor Center, located in Red Lodge, Montana, serves as an essential starting point for travelers, offering maps, brochures, and interactive exhibits on the geology of the Beartooth Mountains, early mining history in the region, and the engineering feats behind the highway's construction.^[53] Visitors can explore displays highlighting the area's natural and cultural heritage, including the impact of 19th-century mining booms on local communities, providing context for the scenic drive ahead.^[54] Along the route, official pullouts enhance the visitor experience with designated stops for photography and brief explorations. The Rock Creek Vista, situated approximately 21 miles from Red Lodge at an elevation of 9,190 feet, features a short, wheelchair-accessible paved trail leading to an overlook of Rock Creek Canyon and the expansive Hellroaring Plateau, ideal for capturing panoramic views.^[55] Nearby, the Clark's Fork Trailhead and Picnic Area provides picnic tables, restrooms, and a small interpretive site dedicated to the Nez Perce tribe's historic passage through the valley during their 1877 flight, allowing visitors to enjoy a relaxed meal while learning about indigenous history.^[53] These sites are complemented by interpretive signage at key overlooks, such as the Pilot and Index Peaks Overlook, where panels explain the geological formations shaped by ancient volcanic activity and glacial erosion, as well as opportunities for wildlife observation including bighorn sheep and marmots.^[7] In Red Lodge, the Carbon County Historical Society and Museum offers additional interpretive depth with exhibits on local coal mining artifacts, historic photographs of the Beartooth Plateau, and a collection of early 20th-century vehicles used in the area's development, enriching understanding of the highway's cultural backdrop.^[56] Further along the byway, the junction with the Chief Joseph Scenic Byway (Wyoming Highway 296) at Clark's Fork Canyon marks a notable intersection, where travelers can access signage detailing the 1877 Nez Perce Retreat and views of the dramatic red rock formations that define the area's geology.^[57] These developed attractions collectively provide structured opportunities to appreciate the Beartooth Highway's blend of natural splendor and human history without venturing into extended trails.^[58]

Activities and accommodations

The Beartooth Highway offers a variety of outdoor activities that leverage its high-elevation alpine environment, including hiking on trails such as the Beartooth High Lakes Trail, which provides access to scenic lakes like Becker Lake via an approximately 8-mile out-and-back route suitable for day hikers.^[59] Fishing is popular in the numerous alpine lakes accessible from the highway, such as those in the Beartooth Lake area, where anglers can target species like cutthroat trout under Wyoming and Montana regulations.^[60] Mountain biking enthusiasts can explore side roads and designated trails branching off the main route, including networks like the Silver Run Trails near Red Lodge, which feature loops ranging from 4 to 15 miles through forested and open terrain.^[61] Wildlife viewing along the highway provides opportunities to observe species such as elk, bison, and various birds, particularly in meadows and near water sources during the summer months when animals are more active at lower elevations.^[62] Guided tours, offered by local outfitters, enhance these experiences by using spotting scopes to safely view wildlife from a distance while traversing the scenic byway.^[63] Accommodations for travelers are primarily focused on camping and nearby lodges, with several Forest Service campgrounds along the route accommodating tents and RVs, such as Beartooth Lake Campground, which features 21 sites near the lake's edge and requires a fee for overnight stays.^[64] Other options include Colter Campground, limited to hard-sided units due to bear activity, and dispersed sites like those at Pilot Creek for primitive tent camping without amenities.^[65] Lodges are available in gateway towns, with properties like the Beartooth Hideaway Inn in Red Lodge offering comfortable rooms.^[66] Overnight parking or vehicle camping is prohibited outside designated campgrounds to protect the environment and ensure safety, with all stays limited to 16 days in the Custer Gallatin National Forest.^[60] Seasonal events add to the recreational appeal, including the annual Beartooth Rally in July, a multi-day motorcycle gathering in Red Lodge that draws thousands for rides, poker runs, and live entertainment to support veterans.^[67] Photography workshops, such as those hosted at Beartooth Mountain Ranch in late September, focus on capturing landscapes and wildlife in the surrounding plateau, often combining highway drives with field instruction.^[68]

References

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### Key Facts About Beartooth Highway
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The Beartooth Highway is a 68.7 mile stretch along U.S. Highway 212 between Red Lodge and Cooke City. The stretch of road reaches a maximum height of 10,947 ...
[50]
Montana's Beartooth Highway Is One of the Most Dangerous Roads ...
Oct 24, 2018 · First some facts: The Beartooth achieves 10,947 feet, which is 1000 feet above the tree line. It is 68.7 miles long and connects two locales you ...
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Beartooth Highway | Montana's Yellowstone Country
Beartooth Highway Orientation Site Learn about the Beartooth Mountains, early mining history and the Beartooth Highway. · Clark's Fork Trailhead and Picnic Area
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Events Culture and Attractions in Red Lodge Montana
Highlights historic Red Lodge with Greenough rodeo collection, extensive historical gun collection, interactive coal mine exhibit and much more.
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Beartooth Highway: Things to Do, Map, Photos & Travel Tips
Apr 17, 2025 · Beartooth Highway is a 68-mile road that runs along the border of Montana and Wyoming, connecting the towns of Red Lodge and Cooke City.
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Carbon County Historical Society & Museum - Red Lodge Montana
Showcase original operating motorized vehicles used in Yellowstone Park prior to WWII. Group trips up the Beartooth Hwy from May-October (weather permitting) by ...
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Chief Joseph Scenic Byway - Travel Wyoming
The Chief Joseph Scenic Byway, Wyoming 296, links the town of Cody with the Beartooth Highway and the Northeast Gate of Yellowstone National Park.Missing: visitor | Show results with:visitor
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https://www.allredlodge.com/history_museums/carbon_county_museum.php
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Becker Lake via Beartooth High Lakes Trail, Montana - AllTrails
Rating 4.9 (188) Becker Lake via Beartooth High Lakes Trail is an out-and-back trail that covers 8 mi, with an elevation gain of 718 ft. It takes about 3–3.5 hr to complete. Out ...
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https://www.fs.usda.gov/r01/custergallatin/recreation/explore-forest/beartooth-scenic-byway-all-american-road
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Mountain Biking - Red Lodge - Beartooth Trails
Trails suitable for mountain biking include Silver Run, Palisades, Nichols Creek, Willow Creek, Ingles Creek, and Parkside.
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Beyond Yellowstone: Where to View Wildlife Outside the Park
Large herds of bison, grizzly and black bears, wolves, elk, deer, and fox call Yellowstone home. During the spring, you'll find newborns frolicking around, and ...
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Guided Wildlife Tours of Beartooth Highway, Yellowstone, and Red ...
Journey along America's most breathtaking mountain road where snowy peaks and alpine lakes await. With your expert guide, you'll search for wildlife.Tours · About · Contact
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Guide To Beartooth Highway Camping and Campgrounds [2023]
Campgrounds are located along the entire 68 miles of the Beartooth Highway but only a couple are located in the highest country along the middle of the route.Rock Creek Campgrounds · Colter Campground near... · Fox Creek Campground<|separator|>
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https://www.beartoothtours.com/
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Beartooth Hideaway Inn & Cabins - Red Lodge
Gateway to Yellowstone National Park driving through the beautiful Beartooth Highway ; FAMILY ROOM · starting at $89 ; DELUXE KING BED · starting at $99 ; CABIN.Missing: campgrounds Cooke City
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Beartooth Rally: Home
Proceeds from Beartooth Pass poker run on the Saturday of Beartooth Rally assists patriotic citizens committed to serving our wounded, injured and ill Veterans.Events · Lodging · Poker Runs · ShopMissing: workshops | Show results with:workshops
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Beartooth Mountain Ranch - Muench Workshops
September 22 – 28, 2026 · Serene landscape photography in the Beartooth Mountains · Wildlife photography in Yellowstone National Park · Join this workshop ...