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Ben Shewry


Ben Shewry (born 1977) is a New Zealand-born chef and restaurateur based in , , best known as the executive chef and co-owner of , a fine-dining restaurant celebrated for its innovative tasting menus that incorporate native Australian ingredients and experimental techniques.
Born in rural , New Zealand, Shewry moved to in 2002, working under notable chefs before assuming leadership of in 2005, where he transformed the venue into a global culinary landmark.
Under his direction, has earned consistent recognition, including rankings in —reaching No. 20 in 2018—and three "chefs' hats" from Good Food Guide, along with Shewry being named best new talent by Gourmet Traveller magazine in 2008.
Shewry has also authored cookbooks such as (2011), emphasizing raw and seasonal approaches, and maintains a reputation for boundary-pushing creativity rooted in his rural upbringing and passion for nature-inspired .

Early Life and Background

Childhood and Formative Influences

Ben Shewry was born in 1977 and raised on a 1000-hectare sheep and farm in the remote rural backcountry of on New Zealand's west coast, where half the property consisted of native bush. His father, Rob Shewry, managed the farm—initially in disrepair with ruined fences and scrub-covered pastures—by clearing land, building roads, wild pigs, and painting, while the family lived off the land amid infestations of rats and birds in their home. His mother, Kaye Shewry, maintained a large productive vegetable garden necessitated by financial constraints, taught at the local with just seven students including Shewry and his two sisters, and emphasized understanding New Zealand's indigenous culture. The family operated self-sufficiently, growing or most of their without or nearby neighbors— the closest being a 15-minute drive away—and centered meals around shared discussions. Shewry experienced significant freedom in childhood, exploring steep hills, foraging wild blackberries, catching eels and , harvesting along the coastline, and in the bush, though incidents like nearly underscored the rugged environment. At age five, he decided to become a , cakes for family and citing the "intoxicating" experience of professional kitchens where he began working around age ten. He later attended high school in Inglewood after his parents sold the farm to avoid . These experiences fostered a deep connection to , , and the "memory palate" from home-grown ingredients, profoundly shaping his culinary of ingredient-driven and respect for elements, while his parents' , hard work, and sacrifices instilled values of purpose and environmental awareness.

Initial Culinary Aspirations

Shewry, born in 1977 in rural North on New Zealand's west coast, exhibited an early and intense fascination with cooking from childhood. At age five, he resolved to pursue a career as a , influenced by the self-sufficient lifestyle on his family's sheep and farm, where hunting wild pigs and basic food preparation were everyday realities. This determination stemmed from a deep-seated passion for transforming ingredients, rather than formal exposure, as his rural environment emphasized practical engagement with nature over structured culinary education. His initial aspirations manifested in obsessive, often improvised experiments at home, including boiling his father's shoes in a pot to test cooking techniques, reflecting an unbridled curiosity unbound by conventional recipes or school curricula. Shewry later recalled skipping early high school cooking classes due to their simplicity, already self-taught through in ways that outpaced classroom basics. By age 14, this drive led to his first paid kitchen role at the Time Out Café in , where preparing and serving food to customers reinforced his commitment, though professional training would follow later. While Shewry's foundational inspirations drew from 's rugged, ingredient-driven rural ethos—hunting, foraging, and farm-fresh simplicity—his aspirations soon expanded to international influences, particularly an obsession with Thai cuisine's balance and detail, which he pursued avidly in his late teens. This blend of personal experimentation and emerging global curiosity laid the groundwork for his departure from New Zealand, seeking advanced opportunities abroad.

Professional Training and Early Career

Apprenticeships and Positions in New Zealand

Shewry's initial exposure to professional kitchens occurred in , where, at age 10, he wrote to five local restaurants seeking work experience; only The Mill responded affirmatively, providing him with early hands-on involvement in culinary operations. He subsequently attended culinary school and completed a formal chef's apprenticeship, marking the structured beginning of his professional training. This apprenticeship was undertaken at Roxborough Bistro in Wellington under head chef Mark Limacher, a venue renowned among local cooks for its innovative approach, where Shewry honed foundational skills in a high-caliber environment. By age 18 in 1995, Shewry had qualified as a chef and secured positions across restaurants in and , engaging in varied roles that emphasized practical experience over strategic career mapping, driven by a commitment to skill improvement regardless of job scale. These early postings laid the groundwork for his transition to international opportunities, though specific venues beyond Roxborough remain less documented in available accounts.

Move to Australia and Key Roles

In 2002, at the age of 25, Ben Shewry relocated from to , , with his wife Natalia, driven by a desire to advance his culinary skills in a more dynamic dining scene. This move marked a pivotal shift, allowing him to immerse himself in 's burgeoning landscape, where he sought out rigorous training under established mentors. Upon arrival, Shewry secured positions in high-profile kitchens, including stints under chef David Thompson at his acclaimed Thai restaurant Nahm, first in and later influencing his work in , where he honed precision in flavor balancing and ingredient authenticity. He also collaborated with Andrew McConnell at venues like Cumulus Inc., absorbing techniques in modern European cooking adapted to local produce, and worked alongside Michael Lambie at , where he served as a junior , managing high-volume service and menu development on a modest . These roles exposed him to diverse influences, from Southeast Asian precision to contemporary Australian interpretations, building his foundation in seasonal, site-specific cuisine. By 2005, as a 27-year-old new father seeking financial stability and leadership opportunity, Shewry transitioned to his first head chef position at in Melbourne's Ripponlea suburb, initially employed by the owners before later acquiring the venue. In this role, he began reshaping the restaurant's direction amid initial challenges like low clientele and financial strain, laying the groundwork for its evolution into a globally recognized establishment.

Attica Restaurant

Founding and Development

Attica was founded in 2003 by emergency physician Dr. David Maccora and his wife Helen in a converted suburban bank building in Ripponlea, a suburb of , . The initial venture struggled to attract sufficient patronage under its first two head chefs. In 2005, Ben Shewry, then 27 years old and recently relocated from , was hired as head chef by the Maccoras after impressing them during his tenure at in St Kilda. Shewry overhauled the menu, drawing on his experiences in , , and Thailand to emphasize native Australian ingredients and experimental techniques, which marked the beginning of the restaurant's ascent in reputation. This shift transformed Attica from a modest operation into a destination for innovative , with early domestic accolades following by 2008, including Good Food Guide's restaurant of the year award. Shewry acquired full ownership of Attica in 2016, solidifying his control over its direction after over a decade as head . Under his , the restaurant evolved operationally, including the introduction of experimental formats like "" sessions (formerly Experimental Tuesdays) to test new dishes and maintain creative momentum. In 2017, Attica announced structural adjustments, such as a condensed to address feedback on length and pacing, reflecting adaptations to sustain accessibility amid growing demand. By 2025, marking two decades since its opening, Attica had established itself as a benchmark for , with Shewry crediting team collaboration and ingredient-driven innovation for its longevity.

Culinary Philosophy and Techniques

Ben Shewry's culinary philosophy at emphasizes an authentically through , centering on native ingredients to evoke cultural stories and respect for indigenous histories, including those of Aboriginal and Islander peoples. This approach transforms overlooked native and —such as bunya nuts, finger limes, quandong berries, and —into dishes that blend contemporary techniques with emotional storytelling, often drawing from Shewry's childhood memories and a sense of . He views cooking as an intellectual pursuit requiring profound understanding, where innovation arises from mastering and subverting traditional methods rather than ego-driven novelty, ensuring dishes align flavors, textures, , , and cultural resonance to generate excitement. Techniques prioritize hyper-local sourcing and minimal intervention to highlight ingredient purity, including daily foraging for wild elements like sea lettuce, saltbush leaves, wild onions, , and 2,600 wildflower petals per service, alongside cultivation in an on-site garden featuring 800 plants and multiple varieties. Shewry develops dishes over periods ranging from four weeks to a year, iterating on sourcing, cultural , and custom presentations, such as handwoven baskets for quandong seeds to provoke guest interaction. Sustainability guides avoidance of overexploited items like Tasmanian or , favoring precise methods like frying mussels for exactly 35 seconds or cooking potatoes in their native soil as a nod to traditions. A hallmark example is the "Simple Dish of the Potato Cooked in the Earth it was Grown," introduced in , which uses a single baked in its harvest soil to underscore varietal differences influenced by —such as sandy versus alluvial soils—and personal , eschewing embellishments for raw connection to place. Shewry enforces a no-repetition , permanently retiring dishes once removed from the menu to maintain and , often collaborating with artists for layered inspirations, as in a 2018 dish reflecting Melbourne's migrant neighborhoods. This framework yields deceptively simple presentations from intricate preparations, fostering a that prioritizes honesty and seasonality over replication.

Signature Dishes and Ingredient Sourcing

Shewry's most renowned dish at is the , prepared by cooking it directly in the earth where it was grown, drawing inspiration from the technique of earth-oven cooking. This method preserves the potato's inherent flavors while emphasizing , often served simply with herbs like mint to highlight its purity. The dish gained international acclaim after featuring in the 2017 Netflix series , propelling 's reputation for innovative simplicity. Other signature elements in Attica's evolving tasting menu incorporate native Australian ingredients into multi-course presentations, such as barbecued ribs, mud crab with bunya bunya nuts and pikelets, and Pyengana cheese puffs. These dishes reflect Shewry's vegetable-forward approach, often integrating indigenous flavors like desert lime, wattle seed, and black ants, as seen in a menu priced at $295 per person. More recent iterations, as of 2024, continue this theme in a $385 multi-course format, prioritizing Australian-sourced proteins over imported alternatives like . Attica's ingredient sourcing prioritizes native and Australian produce, with Shewry and his team foraging for wild ingredients and collaborating with mentors and suppliers to ensure culturally respectful use. This includes sourcing from specialized providores for items like emu eggs, , and rare plants, often being the first to introduce them commercially. Shewry critiques superficial "" in native ingredient use, advocating deep partnerships with local farmers and communities to avoid and promote , as evidenced by direct supplier relationships detailed in 2017 profiles. This approach extends to ethical foraging practices, minimizing environmental impact while maximizing flavor authenticity.

Awards, Rankings, and Commercial Success

has been recognized internationally through list, appearing annually from 2010 onward and reaching its peak position of 20th in 2018. The restaurant ranked 32nd in 2017 before declining to 84th in 2019, after which it no longer featured in the top 100. Domestically, Gourmet Traveller awarded Attica Restaurant of the Year honors in 2015 and 2019. Ben Shewry personally received Gourmet Traveller's Chef of the Year in 2012 and Best New Talent in 2008. In The Age Good Food Guide, Attica maintained three hats—the highest rating—for over a decade, including in , signifying exceptional quality akin to international benchmarks. The rating dropped to two hats in 2022. Attica's commercial viability is evidenced by sustained operations since Shewry's takeover in 2005, high reservation demand often extending months ahead, and a premium multi-course priced at $385 per person. The restaurant's model supports without public disclosure of exact revenues, adapting through innovations amid challenges like the .

Operational Challenges and Adaptations

During the , faced severe operational disruptions due to Melbourne's extended lockdowns, which forced the restaurant to close its for nearly six months in 2020, threatening its viability as a fine-dining establishment reliant on in-person service. To sustain operations and retain staff, Shewry pivoted to an "Attica at Home" takeaway and delivery model in March 2020, offering items like the "Plight of the Bees" trifle and simplified dishes such as lasagnes, a departure from the restaurant's traditional multi-course format. This adaptation included launching a component with native ingredients like Davidson plums, enabling limited off-site sales while dine-in was restricted to 20 patrons under early regulations. Shewry reluctantly implemented these changes at the urging of his partner, Kylie, to keep the full team on payroll amid widespread hospitality layoffs, particularly affecting international workers. Complementing commercial efforts, initiated the Soup Project in 2020, a initiative that provided over 8,000 meals and boxes to jobless staff, funded partly by diverting $5 from each takeaway order. This multifaceted response—encompassing bakery sales, home delivery, and charitable distribution—allowed to navigate without permanent staff reductions, though it required rapid reconfiguration of kitchen workflows and supply chains strained by shortages. Beyond the pandemic, Attica's commitment to native and sustainable ingredients has posed ongoing sourcing challenges, including seasonality and limited scalability of foraged or indigenous produce, necessitating adaptive foraging partnerships and menu flexibility to maintain consistency. Shewry has addressed these by prioritizing ethical suppliers and experimenting with preservation techniques, ensuring operational resilience against supply volatility.

Publications and Broader Influence

Authored Books

Ben Shewry has authored two books, both published by Murdoch Books. His first, Origin: The Food of Ben Shewry, was released in 2012 as a hardcover cookbook featuring recipes, techniques, and the creative processes behind dishes served at Attica restaurant. The book emphasizes Shewry's innovative approach to Australian native ingredients and modernist cooking methods, including detailed photography and explanations of his experimental kitchen practices. It has since gone out of print, with second-hand copies commanding high prices due to its rarity among collectors of culinary literature. Shewry's second book, Uses for Obsession: A Chef's Memoir, appeared in October 2024, blending personal narrative with reflections on professional life. Spanning 272 pages, it chronicles his obsessive drive for culinary perfection at Attica, the restaurant's navigation of the COVID-19 pandemic, and critiques of toxic hospitality cultures, while advocating for kinder workplace dynamics and ethical leadership. The memoir also addresses broader industry issues, such as the role of food critics and the pursuit of excellence amid personal and operational challenges. Early reception highlights its candid tone and manifesto-like elements on reframing hospitality.

Public Speaking and Media Engagements

Shewry has engaged in public speaking at international food symposia and industry events, often drawing on his experiences at to discuss creativity, leadership, and hospitality challenges. In 2011, he presented at the inaugural MAD Symposium in , where his talk on personal obsessions and culinary innovation marked an early breakthrough, impressing an audience largely unfamiliar with his work despite his evident nervousness. He served as a at the 2012 Symposium, focusing on terroir's role in cuisine. In 2017, Shewry spoke at Western Australia's inaugural Food and Drink Symposium, addressing practical issues confronting chefs and producers. More recently, as part of his 2024 memoir Uses for Obsession promotional tour, he appeared in conversation at the Wheeler Centre in on October 15, discussing mortality and creativity. Represented by Saxton Speakers Bureau, Shewry delivers keynotes on resilience, team leadership, and innovation, exemplified in his 2025 presentation outlining six principles for success beyond the kitchen. In media, Shewry has featured in interviews emphasizing his critiques of industry norms and personal philosophy. On September 30, 2024, he discussed his memoir with , highlighting "incredibly problematic" restaurant awards and toxic workplace cultures while underscoring truthfulness as essential to Attica's operations. An October 6, 2024, RNZ appearance covered his criticisms of food critics and the "human magic" of cooking. Podcast engagements include a February 2024 two-part series on , exploring Attica's empathetic staff practices like mandatory speeches, and an October 27, 2024, episode of Vulnerabilitea House on creative processes. Earlier, in 2016, he addressed World's 50 Best Restaurants on Melbourne's dining scene following Attica's ranking. These appearances consistently reflect Shewry's emphasis on authenticity over conventional acclaim, informed by his frontline experiences rather than abstracted theory.

Perspectives on the Hospitality Industry

Critiques of Toxic Culture and Workplace Issues

Ben Shewry has described the hospitality industry as permeated by a toxic culture of bullying, sexual harassment, and misogyny, behaviors he characterizes as "hidden in plain sight" and often enabled by excessive alcohol consumption and drug use among managers. In his 2024 memoir Uses for Obsession, Shewry recounts witnessing such issues from age 10, including exclusionary practices like denying breaks to non-smokers, routine yelling, and brutal interpersonal dynamics in kitchens. Shewry attributes much of the toxicity to male-dominated power structures, stating that perpetrators of harassment and assault are "almost always a man," often operating within a supportive "boys' club" environment. He cites specific examples, such as a chapter titled "Pig" detailing bullying and sexual assault, and personal accounts like his wife Kylie's belittlement by a former boss who suggested evaluating her skills through a degrading act, as well as a female waiter at Attica quitting the industry after a male customer smashed a bottle in response to a service error. These incidents, he argues, disproportionately affect women and reflect a broader industry failure to hold "bad actors" accountable, even when their public personas mask private misconduct. To address these issues, Shewry has reformed practices at , enforcing for sexist comments, prohibiting excessive drinking or drug use, and paying interns—a policy predating similar industry shifts—while prioritizing listening to female staff and maintaining high standards for respect. He criticizes misbehaving chefs and rude customers for exacerbating staff and low morale, advocating instead for inclusive operations with greater , such as rejecting hierarchical and implementing supportive schedules like a four-day work week. Shewry links unchecked toxicity to severe outcomes, including and among peers chasing awards, urging men in leadership to actively foster safer environments rather than perpetuating cycles of harm.

Views on Restaurant Awards and Criticisms

Shewry has described restaurant awards and ranking systems as "incredibly problematic," arguing in his 2024 memoir Uses for Obsession that they foster undue pressure on chefs and distort the hospitality industry's priorities. He contends that such systems, including those like The Age Good Food Guide, contribute to an "oppressive" environment where the fear of negative rankings overrides genuine culinary focus, even for establishments with proven excellence such as , which has secured top positions in lists like the Australian Financial Review's Top 100 Restaurants. In interviews promoting the book, Shewry has dismissed restaurant reviews as "more make-believe than anything else," emphasizing the "enormous strain" imposed by their subjective and high-stakes nature. He attributes part of the mental health challenges in high-end kitchens to this review culture, including social media and formal critiques, which amplify anxiety despite accolades; for instance, he recounted how a single poor review triggered significant stress at Attica despite its history of near-universal awards success. Shewry extends this critique to global food media, asserting that the industry has lingered too long under its influence, prioritizing spectacle over substance. His comments have ignited debate among chefs and critics, with some defending for providing visibility while others echo concerns about gaming and in processes. Shewry maintains that chefs should prioritize over external validation, stating in that the of to critics has passed, as evidenced by rowdy, less reverent atmospheres at recent ceremonies. Despite Attica's repeated honors, including high rankings in , Shewry's stance underscores a broader pushback against metrics that he views as exacerbating toxicity rather than rewarding .

Advocacy for Mental Health and Ethical Practices

Shewry has implemented policies at to prioritize staff and ethical workplace standards, including the introduction of a in 2017 amid heightened industry awareness following the death of Jeremy Strode, aiming to reduce and provide time for personal recovery. He pays interns a , a practice adopted years before revelations of unpaid labor in other top restaurants, emphasizing fair compensation as a basic ethical requirement rather than innovation. In fostering a non-toxic , Shewry enforces bans on sexist comments, after-work drinking sessions, and other behaviors conducive to abuse, viewing managers who tolerate excessive partying or drugs as responsible for problematic cultures. He promotes empathy-building through staff speeches that encourage emotional sharing, linking such practices to sustained performance and team wellbeing. For ethical sourcing, Attica avoids unsustainable ingredients like Tasmanian salmon or and collaborates with Indigenous elders, such as Murrundindi, to incorporate native respectfully, reflecting a to environmental and cultural . Publicly, Shewry advocates for industry-wide reforms, attributing crises—including suicides of two acquaintances around 2016–2017—to relentless review pressures that foster anxiety, , and . In his 2024 Uses for Obsession, he describes awards as "incredibly problematic" for exacerbating these issues, such as straining employees' lives, and urges "an urgent injection of ," stating that " is the older sibling of performance" in achieving elite results without exploitation. He highlights , heavy use, and —often perpetrated by men—as entrenched problems requiring honest acknowledgment to enable ethical progress. Shewry ties these advocacies to broader leadership principles, arguing that prioritizing fair wages, rest, and truthfulness over fear-driven compliance sustains both business viability and human .

Controversies and Public Backlash

Conflicts with Food Critics and Review Systems

In his 2024 memoir Uses for Obsession, Ben Shewry described the restaurant review system as "oppressive" and "incredibly problematic," arguing that it imposes undue pressure on chefs and contributes to issues in the industry. He specifically criticized the opaque methodologies of awards and rankings, claiming they prioritize superficial metrics over substantive evaluation and often reward venues that excessively court media attention rather than culinary merit. Shewry's remarks intensified following Attica's downgrade from five to four "hats" in The Age Good Food Guide for 2024, though he explicitly denied any connection, stating the critique stemmed from long-held concerns unrelated to the rating loss. He accused critics of operating without ethical guidelines, lacking culinary expertise, and causing personal harm through uninformed assessments, including a formative early negative review of Attica in its first year that exacerbated financial strains despite the restaurant's nascent innovations. In response, Shewry requested that Attica be removed from future Good Food Guide listings, positioning the move as a stand against a system he views as detrimental to authentic hospitality. Industry reactions were mixed, with some chefs like and endorsing Shewry's dismissal of food media as outdated and unhelpful, echoing broader frustrations over anonymous judging and the potential for gamed outcomes. Critics, however, pushed back; editor Kallie Hellman disputed Shewry's claims of ethical lapses, defending the guide's processes as rigorous and independent, while announcing plans for reviewers to revisit amid the debate. Shewry maintained that such systems foster a , linking them to higher industry rates and burnout, though he acknowledged their historical role in visibility for emerging talents like himself.

Responses to Industry Exposures

In the wake of heightened scrutiny on , , and abuse in Australia's sector—exemplified by allegations against groups like Swillhouse in August 2024—Ben Shewry has positioned himself as a vocal , using his platform to amplify calls for and . In his 2024 Uses for Obsession, Shewry details pervasive toxic behaviors, arguing that such issues are "hidden " and often enabled by failures. He attributes much of the problem to male-dominated power structures, stating that perpetrators of are "almost always a man," and emphasizes the disproportionate impact on female staff. Shewry illustrates these exposures through personal and observed anecdotes, including his wife Kylie's early-career encounter with a boss nicknamed "Cerdo," who made a degrading sexual comment about her performance: "Well, if you’d like to know how good she is at her job, you can take her into the toilets and find out." He also recounts an incident at where a male patron smashed a in frustration, traumatizing a female waiter named , who subsequently left the industry; Shewry notes, " is many waiters. is almost always a ." These examples underscore his view that unchecked aggression and entitlement perpetuate a cycle of harm, often overlooked amid the glamour of . In response, Shewry advocates practical reforms, asserting that "any manager, any owner, any , , waiter or that oversees a of excessive drinking, drugs, partying … is guaranteeing a problematic ." At , he enforces strict policies prioritizing employee , including zero tolerance for sexist remarks and prohibiting after-hours staff drinking, contrasting with industry norms that he sees as complicit in . Through interviews and his writing, Shewry channels frustration into proposals for an inclusive sector, urging peers to dismantle enabling environments rather than perpetuate them.

Personal Life and Philosophy

Family and Personal Relationships

Ben Shewry was first married to Natalia Shewry, whom he met at age 20 when she worked as a hotel receptionist. The couple had three children: Kobe, Ella, and Ruby. Their marriage ended in divorce in 2017, a period Shewry later described as one of the hardest challenges he had faced, amid personal struggles including emotional distance from his family. Shewry married Kylie Shewry in 2023; she serves as general manager of Attica restaurant and has been involved in its operations, including sharing responsibilities during the COVID-19 lockdowns. The couple collaborated on securing a family home in 2022 and has publicly expressed mutual support in their professional and personal lives. Shewry's family life has intersected with his career, as he has noted prioritizing time with his children amid the demands of running Attica.

Broader Life Principles and Obsessions

Shewry's personal centers on unyielding as a foundational , asserting that truth-telling is indispensable for authentic and operational , as exemplified by his statement that without it, sustaining ventures like becomes untenable. This extends to rejecting industry hypocrisies, including superficial claims and exploitative practices, which he critiques as barriers to genuine progress. Influenced by his rural upbringing, where resourcefulness was essential, Shewry prioritizes resilience and perseverance, demonstrated by his refusal to capitulate during Attica's 262-day pandemic-induced closure in 2020–2021. A core obsession lies in fostering kindness and ethical collaboration, repudiating the "macho" hierarchical cultures prevalent in professional kitchens; at , this manifests in policies like compensating interns and prohibiting to cultivate safety and respect, particularly for women. He views as antithetical to , advocating bravery in risk-taking over rote perfection, which he deems illusory and stifling. Shaped by his heritage, Shewry obsesses over reconnecting with nature and , urging deep cultural immersion rather than tokenistic appropriation of native ingredients, as seen in his advocacy for chefs to learn from Australia's First Peoples through sustained engagement. This principle drives his ethical commitment to sustainability, treating it not as a trend but as a tied to historical and .

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