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Berkeley Plantation


Berkeley Plantation is a historic estate on the in , established in 1619 as by the . It is the site of the first recorded official in , observed on December 4, 1619, by Captain John Woodlief and his party of 38 English settlers in accordance with instructions in their to hold an annual day of prayerful thanksgiving upon arrival. Acquired by Benjamin Harrison III in 1691, the plantation became the longtime seat of the Harrison family, serving as the birthplace of signer of of Benjamin Harrison V in 1726 and William Henry Harrison in 1773, as well as the ancestral home of Benjamin Harrison, grandson of the latter. The three-story mansion, built circa 1726 by Benjamin Harrison IV, exemplifies early 18th-century and was designated a in 1970.
During the American Civil War, the estate—known then as Harrison's Landing—functioned as a major Union Army supply base and headquarters for General George B. McClellan following the Peninsula Campaign, hosting President Abraham Lincoln during his visit in July 1862; it was also the place where bugler Oliver Willcox Norton first heard the bugle call "Taps," composed by General Daniel Butterfield. Berkeley Plantation's enduring significance lies in its early colonial foundations, presidential associations, and roles in pivotal American events, underscoring Virginia's contributions to the nation's formative history.

History

Early Settlement and the 1619 Thanksgiving (1619–1622)

In 1618, the Virginia Company of London issued a land grant of over 8,000 acres along the James River to Sir William Throckmorton, Richard Berkeley, George Thorpe, John Smyth, and associates for the establishment of Berkeley Hundred, a plantation and prospective town site intended to promote English settlement and economic development through tobacco cultivation and trade. The grant's accompanying instructions mandated that upon the settlers' safe arrival, they observe a day of thanksgiving to Almighty God with divine worship, and perpetuate the practice annually. These directives reflected the company's emphasis on religious observance as a foundational element of colonial governance and morale. On December 4, 1619, the ship Margaret arrived from Bristol, England, carrying 38 passengers under the command of Captain John Woodleefe, who proceeded to land and initiate settlement at . In compliance with the patent's terms, the group held a religious service of and that day, consisting of an Anglican rite without the harvest-feast elements later associated with Colony's 1621 event. This observance, documented in such as the Nibley Papers compiled by John Smyth, is cited as the first instance of a chartered in English America, though its scope was limited to commemorating safe passage rather than agricultural bounty or intertribal diplomacy. Contemporary accounts, including agreements dated September 4, 1619, between the proprietors and Woodleefe, underscore the venture's commercial aims, with settlers obligated to cultivate the land and remit portions of produce to the company. George Thorpe, a Virginia Company investor and former Member of Parliament, arrived at Berkeley Hundred in April 1620 and took charge alongside William Tracy, focusing on infrastructure like housing and crop experimentation, including an early attempt at brewing beer from corn in 1621. Thorpe pursued conciliatory policies toward the Powhatan Confederacy, constructing a residence for a local chief to build goodwill, despite prior tensions in the Jamestown region. These efforts ended abruptly on March 22, 1622, when coordinated attacks by Opechancanough's warriors struck multiple James River settlements, killing Thorpe and numerous residents at Berkeley Hundred in a surprise assault that exploited perceived amity. The massacre, which claimed about a third of Virginia's English population overall, prompted the site's abandonment and a shift to fortified defenses colony-wide, curtailing Berkeley Hundred's initial phase by 1622.

Harrison Family Acquisition and Plantation Development (1690s–1726)

In 1691, Benjamin Harrison III, who served as and treasurer of the colony, acquired the Berkeley Hundred property, comprising approximately 8,000 acres along the in City County. The purchase was made from Bland, a descendant of the original patent holders, following earlier confiscations and resales of the land originally granted in 1619. Harrison III, leveraging his positions in colonial administration, transformed the site into a functional operation centered on cultivation and riverine trade. Under Harrison III's ownership, significant infrastructural development occurred, including the establishment of the first successful on the at the plantation, which facilitated the construction and repair of vessels for exporting and importing goods. This represented an early endeavor in the , capitalizing on the plantation's strategic location for maritime access and contributing to the economic viability of the property amid fluctuating markets. The Harrisons also expanded agricultural operations, employing indentured servants and enslaved Africans acquired through the transatlantic trade to clear land and maintain crops, though records from this era detail limited specifics on labor scales. Following Benjamin Harrison III's death in 1713, his son inherited the estate and oversaw further enhancements, culminating in the construction of the present Georgian-style mansion in 1726. The three-story brick residence, among the earliest of its kind in , was built using bricks fired on-site by enslaved laborers under Harrison IV's direction, symbolizing the family's growing wealth from exports and —Harrison IV himself held roles as a burgess and naval officer. The mansion's design incorporated practical features for oversight, such as elevated foundations to mitigate flooding and expansive cellars for storage, reflecting adaptations to the tidal environment. This period marked the transition of Berkeley from a nascent holding to a consolidated , setting the foundation for subsequent generations' political influence.

Antebellum Prosperity and Political Influence (1726–1861)


In 1726, constructed the three-story brick at Berkeley Plantation, utilizing bricks fired on-site and featuring robust three-foot-thick walls in English and bond, marking a symbol of the family's rising wealth from cultivation and trade. The plantation, encompassing thousands of acres along the , operated a for exporting hogsheads of to while importing goods, supplemented by a established earlier that built vessels including 18-gun battleships, fostering self-sufficiency in producing foodstuffs, , and other commodities to support up to 1,000 inhabitants. This economic model, reliant on enslaved labor numbering around 80 during the prior generation, generated substantial revenue through Virginia's staple crop, enabling the Harrisons to amass landholdings and mercantile interests that solidified their status among the colony's elite .
Benjamin , born at in 1726 and inheriting the estate at age 19 following his father's death in 1745, expanded its operations, overseeing 110 enslaved individuals by the time of his 1791 death and maintaining tobacco as the primary that underpinned the plantation's prosperity into the late . Politically, Harrison V served 25 years in the Virginia House of Burgesses starting in 1749, represented the colony at the in 1774, signed of Independence in 1776, and later became speaker of the before serving three terms as governor from 1781 to 1784, exemplifying the family's deep entanglement in colonial and early republican governance. His son, , born at in 1773, would later ascend to the U.S. presidency in 1841, further extending the estate's legacy of political prominence, though he departed young for military service. Under Benjamin Harrison VI, who inherited in 1791 and died in 1799, renovations to the mansion included Adam-style woodwork and double arches in the great rooms, executed under the guidance of , reflecting continued investment amid mercantile pursuits and prior Revolutionary roles such as deputy . By the early , however, intensive had depleted the soil, leading to financial strains under Benjamin Harrison VII's inheritance in 1799, though the plantation retained its stature as a hub of Harrison influence until Benjamin Harrison VIII, the last family owner after approximately 150 years of tenure, navigated the pre-Civil War era. This period of prosperity, driven by export-oriented agriculture and bolstered by intergenerational political clout, positioned as a cornerstone of Virginia's planter , yielding enduring national connections despite emerging economic challenges.

Civil War Occupation and Damage (1861–1865)

During the 1862 Peninsula Campaign, Union forces under Major General George B. McClellan occupied Berkeley Plantation, known as Harrison's Landing, establishing it as a strategic base on the James River following the Seven Days Battles. After the Battle of Malvern Hill on July 1, 1862, McClellan relocated his Army of the Potomac headquarters to the site, where approximately 140,000 troops encamped in the surrounding fields until mid-August. The U.S. Navy supported the occupation by ferrying supplies from Hampton Roads to Harrison's Landing. Key events included McClellan's drafting of the Harrison's Landing Letter to President Abraham Lincoln on July 8, 1862, which proposed limited war objectives focused on restoring the Union without immediate emancipation or harsh retribution against Confederates. Lincoln visited the plantation on July 8–9, 1862, meeting with McClellan and subordinates to discuss strategy. Brigadier General Daniel Butterfield composed the bugle call "Taps" there, first performed by bugler Oliver W. Norton. Confederate J.E.B. Stuart's screened McClellan's movements during the June 11–14 ride around the , approaching Harrison's Landing on June 13 and shelling the plantation with artillery, which embedded a cannonball in the kitchen outbuilding's wall. The occupation inflicted damage through trampled crops, makeshift hospital use of structures including the mansion, and artillery impacts, though the core Georgian house avoided extensive destruction. McClellan withdrew his forces in August 1862, ending the primary Union presence, with the area seeing limited further conflict until Confederate surrender in 1865.

Postwar Recovery and Family Continuity (1865–20th Century)

Following the , Berkeley Plantation endured prolonged neglect after serving as a headquarters, , cemetery, and campsite during General George B. McClellan's in 1862, with damages including structural deterioration, destroyed crops, and widespread deforestation for firewood. The Harrison family, led by VIII (born 1824), sought to reclaim and repair the estate amid Virginia's postwar economic collapse, but pre-existing debts—stemming from a 1841 deed to the Bank of the for $20,000—and the loss of enslaved labor rendered recovery untenable, culminating in foreclosure by a local bank and the family's eviction in the late 1860s. The property changed hands several times in the ensuing decades, remaining largely unoccupied and decaying, with the Georgian mansion suffering from peeling paint, collapsed outbuildings, and overgrowth that obscured its historical features. Tobacco farming persisted sporadically on reduced acreage, but without substantial investment, the plantation's viability as an economic unit ended, severing direct Harrison ownership that had endured since 1691. In 1907, industrialist John Jamieson acquired the 1,400-acre estate, including the mansion, for $28,000, marking the onset of systematic restoration; he financed initial repairs by harvesting and selling timber from the grounds. Upon Jamieson's death, his son assumed stewardship around 1927, collaborating with his wife to excise 19th-century additions like porches, restore and window frames, and furnish interiors with Harrison-era artifacts, thereby rehabilitating the site as a preserved monument to the family's legacy. The Jamiesons opened Berkeley to public tours in , emphasizing its presidential associations and ensuring continuity of historical interpretation tied to the Harrisons, even as the property transitioned to non-family custodianship. This effort transformed the dilapidated holdings into a by 1936, sustaining the estate's prominence through 20th-century preservation amid shifting agricultural and tourism economies.

Architecture and Grounds

The Georgian Mansion (1726 Construction)

The mansion at Berkeley Plantation was constructed in 1726 by , following his acquisition of the property in 1722. This three-story brick structure represents one of the earliest and oldest verifiable three-story brick houses in , exemplifying early colonial . The bricks were fired on the plantation grounds, highlighting the self-sufficiency of the estate's operations. Enslaved laborers of descent, under Harrison's direction, carried out the construction. The mansion occupies a prominent hilltop site overlooking the , providing strategic views and natural defense. Architectural features include a roof, noted as the first of its kind in , and a round date stone above a side inscribed with "1726" and the initials "B" and "A"—for Benjamin Harrison IV and his wife Anne Carter—etched above a . The design follows a double-pile layout typical of mansions, with rooms arranged symmetrically around central halls. While the original interior finishings were simpler, reflecting mid-18th-century techniques, later renovations in introduced Adam-style woodwork, though these postdate the initial build. The mansion's enduring brick has contributed to its survival through subsequent historical events, underscoring the durability of local materials and craftsmanship employed.

Outbuildings, Dependencies, and Landscape Features

The mansion at Berkeley Plantation is flanked by two dependencies, originally single-story structures that were altered to two stories around 1800 to serve as additional living quarters. The kitchen dependency, a separate building detached from the main house for and cooking operations, remains extant and provides insight into 18th-century domestic support functions. Adjacent to it are reconstructed slave quarters, built to replicate the modest wooden dwellings housing the plantation's enslaved laborers, as original structures typically used perishable materials that deteriorated rapidly after the . The landscape features a hilltop overlooking the , with ten acres of formal gardens extending a quarter-mile from the mansion to the riverbank via five descending terraces connected by gravel paths. These include century-old boxwood parterres, restored to reflect colonial-era designs, which frame the grounds and provide structured ornamental elements amid the working terrain. Self-guided tours of the grounds highlight these features, including a for the Harrison family and enslaved individuals, emphasizing the 's integration of utilitarian and aesthetic elements in a riverside setting conducive to cultivation.

Economic and Labor Systems

Tobacco Cultivation and Plantation Economy

Tobacco served as the principal at Berkeley Plantation from the late through the , forming the backbone of the Harrison family's economic operations and contributing to Virginia's colonial export economy. Introduced to the colony in the early 1600s, the labor-intensive crop required clearing land, planting seeds in hills, weeding, topping plants to promote leaf growth, harvesting mature leaves by hand, and curing them in barns before packing into hogsheads—large wooden barrels weighing up to 1,000 pounds each—for shipment down the to export markets, primarily . This process demanded year-round effort, with peak harvest periods extending workdays to 16 hours for field hands. Under the Harrisons, who acquired the property in the 1690s, production scaled with expanded acreage and enslaved labor, transitioning from initial reliance on indentured servants to a predominantly enslaved workforce by 1700. III oversaw operations with approximately 80 enslaved individuals at dedicated to farming, supplemented by 20 more on adjacent holdings, enabling the family to cultivate thousands of acres across multiple plantations totaling 2,750 acres by the early 18th century. The plantation's location facilitated a integrated system: Harrisons purchased from neighboring small planters at a , consolidated shipments, and exchanged the crop for imported English , profiting from handling fees, markups, and direct export revenues that built substantial family wealth. By the mid-18th century, , who owned 110 enslaved people, exemplified this model, with a 1791 inventory documenting the workforce's composition, including field hands who comprised the majority. The thrived on 's role as a , used to acquire labor, pay taxes, and settle debts within Virginia's staple-crop system, though practices exhausted over generations. This depletion, evident by the late 1700s, prompted diversification into crops like corn and , but remained dominant until the era, when market fluctuations and soil degradation contributed to financial strains, foreshadowing the plantation's challenges. The Harrison tobacco empire, centered at what became known as Harrison's Landing due to its shipping prominence, underscored the crop's centrality to elite planter prosperity, intertwining agricultural output with transatlantic commerce.

Enslaved Labor Force and Operations

Enslaved Africans and their descendants formed the core labor force at Berkeley Plantation from the early onward, replacing indentured servants by around 1700 and enabling the estate's tobacco-based economy and infrastructure development. Under , who died in 1791, the plantation held 110 enslaved individuals, as documented in a inventory that listed them genealogically rather than by typical valuation order, beginning with a retired worker appraised at zero pounds. This inventory reflects the Harrison family's substantial reliance on coerced labor for wealth accumulation, with enslaved people contributing to the construction of the , outbuildings, and terraced gardens that defined the site's grandeur. The majority of the enslaved workforce consisted of field hands tasked with the labor-intensive cultivation, harvesting, and processing of , Virginia's staple crop, which involved seasonal workloads exceeding 16 hours per day during peak periods and over 10 hours in winter. Skilled artisans among them, including blacksmiths and carpenters, maintained tools, repaired structures, and supported tied to the plantation's , while domestic servants handled household duties such as cooking and laundering in dedicated outbuildings. Enslaved women and children often cared for Harrison family members, including future President during his upbringing, and tended livestock or gardens to supplement rations. Owners provided annual allotments of and shoes, with enslaved individuals permitted to grow their own during "own time" from sundown Saturday to sunrise Monday, though such provisions did not mitigate the inherent brutality of hereditary bondage. Family structures among the enslaved were informally recognized through customs like "," but sales frequently separated spouses and kin, prioritizing economic needs over stability. Quarters for the enslaved, typically constructed from perishable materials, housed multiple families and were destroyed by fire during the occupation in 1862, when forces under General George McClellan encamped at the site; around 40 enslaved people were reportedly taken by troops, and others fled as "" to lines, contributing to the plantation's wartime disruption. Post-emancipation, the loss of this labor force shifted operations toward and tenant farming, though records of specific operations underscore how enslaved productivity sustained Berkeley's prosperity amid fluctuating markets.

Historical Significance and Claims

Presidential Connections and Founding Legacy

Berkeley Plantation served as the seat of the Harrison family, a prominent that produced key figures in the American founding and two presidents. Benjamin Harrison IV constructed the Georgian mansion in 1726 on land patented earlier in the colonial era, establishing it as the family's primary residence and agricultural base along the . His son, , born at Berkeley in 1726, inherited the property and emerged as a pivotal Founding Father, serving in the , the Continental Congress, and as a signer of the Declaration of Independence on July 4, 1776. Harrison V's tenure as speaker of the and three-term (1781–1784) from 1776 onward underscored the plantation's alignment with revolutionary politics, as he hosted officers and contributed to wartime governance amid Britain's blockade of the . The site's direct presidential ties stem from Harrison V's lineage: his son, , the ninth U.S. president, was born at Berkeley on February 9, 1773. , who served briefly in 1841 before dying of after one month in office, represented the family's martial and political tradition, having gained fame as a general in the at the . His grandson, —the 23rd president (1889–1893)—maintained ancestral links to Berkeley, though born in ; the plantation symbolized the Harrison lineage's enduring influence, with family members occupying roles in and state legislatures across generations. This multigenerational stewardship, spanning from colonial planting to national leadership, positioned Berkeley as a cradle of American , where planter elites like the Harrisons bridged agrarian roots with federal governance. Berkeley's founding legacy extends beyond presidencies to its embodiment of Virginia's class, which shaped early U.S. institutions through land ownership and civic duty. The Harrisons' control of Berkeley from 1691, when III acquired it, facilitated economic self-sufficiency via exports and , resources that supported financing. Unlike transient colonial outposts, the plantation's continuity under Harrison ownership—enduring fires, wars, and economic shifts—mirrored the resilience of the founding era's elite networks, producing not only signers and presidents but also advocates for constitutional amid debates over . This legacy, rooted in empirical records of family deeds and rather than romanticized narratives, highlights causal ties between plantations and the political architecture of the early republic.

Debate Over the "First Thanksgiving"

In December 1619, English settlers led by Captain John Woodlief arrived at , an 8,000-acre grant on the in , chartered by the to Sir William Throckmorton and associates. The company's instructions stipulated that the day of the ship's arrival "shall be yearly and perpetually kept holy as a day of thanksgiving to Almighty ," leading to a formal religious service on December 4, 1619, observed by the 38 male colonists. This event is cited in historical records, including a 1619 report of the voyage published in English newspapers, as the first officially designated English thanksgiving in . Proponents of Berkeley Plantation's claim argue that this observance predates the 1621 harvest feast by two years and fulfills a chartered mandate for an annual religious , distinguishing it as the inaugural instance of the tradition in English colonies. The U.S. referenced it in the on November 24, 1969, affirming its historical precedence. Archaeological from excavations at the site supports the presence of early 17th-century activity consistent with the documented arrival. Critics, including historians from Museums, acknowledge the 1619 service likely occurred but contend it lacks the communal harvest celebration and Native American participation that define the iconic event, where Pilgrims and shared a multi-day feast after a harsh winter. The gathering, documented in Edward Winslow's Mourt's Relation (1622), emphasized survival and alliance rather than a pre-planned , and early Puritan thanksgivings were austere devotional days without feasting or recreation. Berkeley's short-lived , abandoned following the 1622 Powhatan uprising that killed many settlers, diminished its enduring cultural impact compared to 's foundational mythology in American lore. The debate reflects differing definitions of "first Thanksgiving": chronological formal observance versus the popularized narrative of intercultural harvest gratitude. While holds primacy in date and charter specificity, Plymouth's story, amplified by 19th-century romanticization, solidified national traditions proclaimed by presidents like in 1863. Earlier non-English examples, such as a 1565 Spanish feast in , predate both but fall outside the Anglo-American context typically invoked.

Preservation and Modern Role

Restoration Initiatives and Ownership Changes

Following the American Civil War, Berkeley Plantation passed through multiple private owners amid economic decline in the region. In 1907, the property, encompassing the mansion and 1,400 acres, was auctioned and acquired by John Jamieson, a New York resident who had served as a drummer boy in General George B. McClellan's at the site during the 1862 . John Jamieson initiated preliminary restoration of the grounds shortly after purchase but died in 1926, bequeathing the estate to his son, Malcolm Jamieson. Malcolm Jamieson, who inherited the plantation at age 19 in 1927, relocated there in 1928 following his graduation from and dedicated his life to its revival. He oversaw agricultural operations on approximately 500 acres while systematically restoring the landscape, including replanting trees, shrubs, and flowers, and reconstructing formal gardens with terraced lawns, boxwood parterres, and a . In , Malcolm married Grace Eggleston, who contributed expertise in historical research, interior decoration using 18th-century antiques, and garden design; the mansion's structural restoration was completed by 1938. The couple opened the site to the public in the 1940s, marking a shift toward preservation as a historic attraction, with Malcolm and Grace investing nearly 70 years in these efforts until his death in 1997. Ownership has remained with the Jamieson family since 1907, currently held by descendants including Malcolm "Jamie" Jamieson, son of Malcolm and Grace, born in 1944. The family's initiatives emphasized authentic period restoration without public funding, earning recognition such as the 1988 Gabriella Page Award from the Association for the Preservation of Virginia Antiquities for Malcolm Jamieson's contributions. Today, the plantation functions as both a working —cultivating soybeans, corn, and —and a preserved , reflecting the Jamiesons' sustained private stewardship.

Tourism, Education, and Public Access

Berkeley Plantation operates as a public , open daily from 9:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. for and ticket sales, with guided house tours scheduled at 10:00 a.m., 11:00 a.m., 12:00 p.m., 1:00 p.m., 2:00 p.m., 3:00 p.m., and 4:00 p.m.. General admission grants access to the mansion via guided tours, self-guided exploration of the gardens, grounds, river shore, outbuildings, exhibits, films, and museums, emphasizing the site's role in colonial , presidential heritage, and claims to the first official in 1619. The plantation supports educational programming tailored for students and families, including dedicated student tours that examine social standards, for boys and girls in the colony, and daily life during colonial times through interactive exploration of artifacts and structures. Homeschool Days, held October 1-7 annually, feature guided house tours, museum visits with paintings and artifacts, and walks through restored terraced gardens to illustrate 18th-century plantation operations. Additional events such as Kid's Day on April 1 and Children's Nature Hunts promote hands-on learning about 18th-century history, , and the site's features. Group tours accommodate organized visitors with a standard 1.5-hour itinerary covering an introductory film, exhibits, and guided mansion tour, followed by optional self-guided time in the grounds and ; adult rates apply at $25 per person for groups of 20 or more, with discounts for students and children. The site's location along Route 5, approximately 30 miles east of , facilitates public access via a scenic route historically connecting Williamsburg and , drawing tourists for its preserved , distillation legacy, and connections to signers of of Independence and U.S. presidents. Seasonal offerings, including a and wedding venues in the rose gardens and , further enhance its appeal as a multifaceted tourist destination while maintaining focus on historical preservation.

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    Rating 4.5 (517) ... grounds here at Berkeley Plantation. ... The grounds are nicely maintained, excellent tours, buildings with video presentations and great grounds and gardens.
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    Berkeley Plantation offers the Upper & Lower Rose Garden, Chippendale Gazebo, 1619 Landing, Ladies Winter Garden, and the 18th Century Mansion for weddings.Missing: website | Show results with:website