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Coster Diamonds

Royal Coster Diamonds is a historic diamond polishing factory and fine jewelry atelier located in , , renowned as the world's oldest continuously operating facility, founded in 1840 by Moses Elias Coster. Situated on in the heart of the city, the company specializes in the craftsmanship of certified natural s, ethical sourcing, and custom jewelry creation, drawing on Amsterdam's centuries-old diamond trade legacy that began in 1576. Throughout its history, Royal Coster Diamonds has been entrusted with polishing iconic gems, including the legendary in the 19th century on commission from of and the , establishing its reputation for precision and innovation in diamond faceting. In 2007, the firm achieved a milestone by patenting the Royal 201, a groundbreaking round brilliant cut featuring 201 facets for unparalleled sparkle, recognized as one of the most brilliant diamond cuts ever created. The company received the prestigious "Royal" designation in 2016 from King Willem-Alexander, affirming its enduring excellence and ties to European royalty, for whom it has supplied diamond jewelry over generations. Today, Royal Coster Diamonds operates as a destination offering guided of its workshops, hands-on diamond experiences, and a selection of GIA- and IGI-certified for engagement rings, fine jewelry, and loose stones, all emphasizing conflict-free and sustainable practices. Visitors can explore collections like Coster Classics—inspired by heritage designs—and Coster Creations, custom pieces crafted by master jewelers, while learning about the intricate process of transforming rough into sparkling masterpieces. The continues to innovate, blending traditional craftsmanship with modern ethical standards to serve a global clientele.

Overview

Founding and Early Operations

Royal Coster Diamonds was established in 1840 by Moses Elias Coster as a diamond polishing workshop located near Waterlooplein in , marking it as the oldest continuously operating diamond cutting firm in the world. The workshop initially concentrated on hand-polishing rough , employing traditional Dutch methods such as the use of a scaif—a rotating wheel coated with diamond dust and oil—to facet and refine gems with precision. These techniques traced their roots to 's emergence as a diamond processing hub in the , when Sephardi Jewish immigrants from introduced advanced cutting practices that solidified the city's role in the global trade. In the economic landscape of the , Amsterdam's diamond industry remained a cornerstone of the local economy, particularly for the Jewish community, where it supported a significant portion of livelihoods through small-scale workshops and trade networks. However, the sector faced growing competition from , where Belgian independence in had drawn Dutch polishers southward due to lower labor costs and favorable conditions, gradually shifting some market activity away from the . This rivalry underscored the challenges of maintaining Amsterdam's dominance amid evolving European trade dynamics. Following Moses Elias Coster's death, his son Martin Coster assumed leadership of the family business in the mid-19th century, preserving its independent operation and extending its reach by establishing a polishing facility in in 1851. Under Martin's stewardship, the workshop continued to emphasize artisanal hand-polishing, contributing to the firm's early reputation for quality amid the competitive pressures of the era.

Location and Significance

Royal Coster Diamonds was originally established in 1840 near Waterlooplein in central , where its factory served as a hub for early polishing operations. In 1970, due to the construction of the complex—a combined city hall and —the company relocated to Paulus Potterstraat on , a prominent square in the Zuid district adjacent to cultural landmarks like the . The current facility at Paulus Potterstraat 2, 1071 CZ , occupies four large 19th-century villas that have been adapted to house the polishing workshops while preserving elements of their historical architecture, such as ornate facades and spacious interiors that reflect 's Gilded Age building style. As the world's oldest continuously operating diamond polishing factory, Royal Coster Diamonds has played a pivotal role in upholding Amsterdam's longstanding reputation as the "Diamond Capital" of the , a title rooted in the city's dominance of the trade since the when Portuguese Jewish refugees brought diamond-cutting expertise from and . This status persists alongside other historic firms like Gassan Diamonds, contributing to a cluster of traditional workshops that maintain the city's economic and cultural ties to the industry. The company's enduring presence underscores Amsterdam's evolution from a medieval to a global center for gem craftsmanship, where innovations in cutting techniques were pioneered over centuries. Royal Coster Diamonds' location on symbolizes its integration into Amsterdam's broader cultural landscape, influencing Dutch jewelry traditions through generations of skilled artisans who blend historical methods with modern precision. In 2013, the craftsmanship of and —championed by initiatives from Royal Coster Diamonds and Gassan—was inscribed on the ' National Inventory of , recognizing it as a vital part of the nation's living traditions alongside other artisanal practices. This designation highlights the factory's role in safeguarding techniques passed down since the , ensuring their transmission to future generations and reinforcing Amsterdam's intangible heritage in global jewelry making.

Historical Development

19th Century Milestones

In 1852, Coster Diamonds was commissioned by the British Crown to recut the diamond, one of the world's largest gems at the time, for . Led by master polisher Mozes Elias Coster, a team of expert craftsmen including Voorsanger and J.A. Fedder undertook the task in , hand-polishing the stone over 38 days using traditional scaives to transform its Mughal-era cut into a more brilliant oval brilliant shape. This project reduced the diamond's weight from 186 carats to 105.6 carats while significantly enhancing its fire and sparkle, marking a pivotal moment that elevated Coster Diamonds' status among European jewelers. The involvement of such skilled polishers in this high-profile royal endeavor solidified the firm's international reputation for precision and innovation in diamond processing. J.A. Fedder, a prominent polisher from the Koh-i-Noor team, passed away, yet the firm's momentum continued unabated. A few years later, in the mid-1850s, Coster Diamonds took on another landmark project: polishing the Star of the South, a rare diamond discovered in Brazil in 1853. The rough stone, weighing approximately 261 carats, was cut by master polisher L.B. Voorzanger between 1856 and 1858 into a 128.48-carat cushion-shaped gem with fancy light pinkish brown color and VS2 clarity, demonstrating the firm's expertise in handling large, high-value roughs from emerging sources. This achievement further showcased the contributions of key polishers like Voorzanger, who had also participated in the Koh-i-Noor recut, and helped establish Coster as a go-to destination for transformative diamond work. Throughout the late 19th century, Coster Diamonds experienced significant growth amid the booming Amsterdam diamond industry, expanding its workforce to meet rising demand for polished gems in European markets. The firm, already pioneering in mechanization, broadened its adoption of steam-powered scaives during this period, which revolutionized polishing efficiency by replacing manual and horse-driven methods with more consistent rotational speeds. This technological advancement, building on Coster's early innovations from the 1840s, allowed for larger-scale operations and contributed to the company's dominance in high-end diamond finishing, attracting commissions from royalty and elite clientele across the continent.

20th Century Growth and Challenges

In the early 20th century, Coster Diamonds navigated significant challenges, particularly during , when the Nazi occupation of the severely disrupted Amsterdam's diamond industry. As a Jewish-founded company established in 1840 by Moses Elias Coster, it shared the fate of many Jewish-owned firms in the city, where the Jewish population faced persecution, deportation, and extermination. The company's Jewish director, Beniamin Manus, was forced to flee, with the business falling under the control of Nazi sympathizers; tragically, Manus and his family perished in concentration camps. These events halted operations and contributed to the broader decline of Amsterdam's diamond trade, as many skilled Jewish workers were lost or fled. Post-1945, Coster Diamonds experienced a revival, rebuilding its operations amid the industry's shift. In 1951, the company was acquired by Wim Biallosterski, owner of a diamond sawing firm, which helped stabilize it after the war's devastation. By the mid-20th century, the introduction of electric equipment marked a key modernization, transitioning from traditional hand methods to more efficient, precise techniques that boosted and allowed for larger-scale . This technological aligned with the company's post-war emphasis on exporting polished diamonds to international markets, helping it regain prominence in global trade. The 1962 takeover by Ben Meier, a skilled diamond polisher who had previously crafted 275 for Queen Juliana's watch in 1959, further propelled growth and modernization. Meier, partnering with Max Biallosterski, acquired the premises and focused on revitalizing the business through innovation and expansion. In 1970, due to urban redevelopment for the complex, the company relocated from its original Waterlooplein site to Paulus Potterstraat at Museum Square, enhancing its visibility and accessibility. Under Meier's leadership, Coster Diamonds strengthened ties with European royalty, creating custom pieces for Dutch monarchs like Queen Juliana and producing replicas, such as a copy of the , underscoring its continued role in supplying high-profile clients. This period solidified the firm's export-driven model, exporting polished worldwide while maintaining its heritage of craftsmanship.

Royal Recognition and Legacy

Coster Diamonds has a long history of supplying exclusive jewelry to European royal families, including the during the reign of Queen Wilhelmina (1890–1948), as well as the , the Russian Romanovs, and Austrian Empress Elisabeth of (Sisi). The company also crafted pieces for international heads of state, such as a item for Thai Rama V () during his 1897 visit to . These commissions underscored Coster Diamonds' reputation for precision craftsmanship, with Queen Wilhelmina herself visiting the workshop in 1897 to observe the polishing process. In recognition of its enduring contributions to the diamond industry, Coster Diamonds received the prestigious "Royal" prefix in 2016 from King , honoring more than 175 years of exemplary service and innovation in diamond polishing. This royal bestowal, which transformed the company into Royal Coster Diamonds, highlighted its historical role in elevating artisanal standards to international prominence. The legacy of Royal Coster Diamonds lies in its preservation of traditional diamond polishing techniques, dating back to its founding in as the world's oldest continuously operating factory. Artifacts such as a full-scale replica of the —repolished by the company's experts in 1852 for , reducing it from 186 to 105.6 carats—remain on display, symbolizing its mastery of historical cuts. Over generations, Royal Coster has trained master polishers through hands-on programs, influencing global standards by emphasizing ethical sourcing from conflict-free origins and maintaining high-quality certifications like those from the . This commitment has helped shape post-colonial industry practices, promoting transparency in the beyond Europe's imperial era.

Notable Contributions

Iconic Diamonds Polished

Coster Diamonds played a pivotal role in the recutting of the diamond in 1852, transforming the historic 186-carat Mughal-cut stone into a 105.6-carat oval brilliant that significantly enhanced its brilliance and fire. Commissioned by for , the process was overseen by master polishers from Coster, including Fedder and Voorzanger, working in collaboration with , and took 38 days to complete using a traditional polishing wheel to meticulously shape and facet the gem. The resulting stellar brilliant cut featured 33 facets on the crown, including the table, and an additional eight star facets around the culet in the pavilion, bringing the total to 66 facets and correcting imperfections in the original form to achieve optimal light reflection. In the mid-19th century, Coster Diamonds also polished the , a renowned weighing 254.48 carats, into a 128.48-carat cushion-cut gem that showcased improved color and clarity. Master polisher Mr. Voorzanger led the effort, refining the stone's fancy light pinkish brown hue and VS2 clarity through careful faceting that allowed it to reflect white light while refracting a soft rose-pink glow, a rare combination for such a large . This transformation highlighted Coster's expertise in preserving and enhancing subtle color variations during polishing. Among other notable works, Coster Diamonds crafted custom pieces for European royalty, such as a 1959 wristwatch for Queen Juliana of the Netherlands featuring 275 diamonds polished by Ben Meier, each demonstrating precise and proportion beyond standard industry benchmarks. The company's approach emphasized symmetry standards that often exceeded () norms, ensuring facets aligned with tolerances tighter than the typical Excellent grade to maximize light performance. These royal commissions underscored Coster's legacy in technical precision, where polishers like Voorzanger contributed to multiple iconic transformations.

Renowned Diamond Polishers

Coster Diamonds has been home to several master polishers whose expertise elevated the company's reputation in diamond craftsmanship. Mozes Elias Coster, the founder established in 1840, was a pioneering master polisher known for his leadership in high-profile projects. He directed the repolishing of the diamond in 1852, overseeing a team that transformed the 186-carat rough into a 105.6-carat brilliant-cut gem over 38 days using traditional hand-polishing wheels. His techniques emphasized precision and , setting standards for brilliance in 19th-century . Louis Benjamin Voorzanger, a 19th-century expert at Coster Diamonds, contributed significantly to iconic stones, including the alongside J.A. Fedder. Voorzanger's career spanned key commissions, such as the 1856-1857 polishing of the , a 254.48-carat reduced to a 128.48-carat cushion-cut gem with exceptional fire due to his meticulous facet placement. He employed advanced cleaving and bruting methods for the era, enhancing color and light performance without unnecessary weight loss. Voorzanger died in , leaving a legacy of technical innovation in assessment. J.A. Fedder, another team member in 1852, specialized in bruting—the initial rounding process—working in tandem with Voorzanger to prepare the stone for . His career at Coster focused on large, irregular roughs, and he passed away in 1864. Hardouin, a contemporary craftsman, also participated in the project under Coster's guidance, contributing to the hand-polishing phases that ensured uniform symmetry. These 19th-century polishers exemplified the firm's early emphasis on collaborative expertise for commissions. In the 20th century, Pauline Willemse emerged as a record-setting master polisher at Royal Coster Diamonds. Between 1991 and 1994, she hand-polished the world's smallest brilliant-cut diamond, a 0.0000743-carat stone with 57 facets, earning a Guinness World Record for her precision using specialized micro-tools and magnification. Willemse's technique involved gradual facet grinding to maintain proportion despite the minuscule scale, demonstrating advancements in fine control. Coster Diamonds' apprenticeship system has fostered multi-generational expertise, with skills passed from founders like Mozes Elias Coster to his son and subsequent family members, producing successive waves of master polishers. This lineage-based training, rooted in hands-on , ensured continuity in traditional methods while adapting to modern tools.

Contemporary Operations

Modern Polishing Techniques and Innovations

In the evolution from traditional hand-polishing methods established in the , Coster Diamonds has embraced advanced technologies to refine diamond processing, focusing on , , and ethical standards. A landmark innovation is the Royal 201 , patented in 2007 by master polishers Donny Griffioen and Bobby Low. This proprietary round brilliant cut features 201 facets—compared to the standard 58 facets of a traditional round brilliant—optimized through innovative proportions, cutting angles, and micro-facets along the to achieve maximum light reflection, superior fire, and unparalleled sparkle. The production process demands exceptional skill, as it requires sacrificing over 60% of the rough diamond's weight to realize the cut's complex geometry, a task mastered by only a select few artisans at the facility. Optical benefits include enhanced brilliance that disperses light more evenly, making the Royal 201 a for diamonds and a signature offering exclusive to Coster Diamonds. Since the 1990s, Coster Diamonds has integrated laser inscription for permanent, microscopic marking of diamonds to verify authenticity and ownership without compromising appearance; to map rough stones' internal structures for optimal yield planning; and (CAD) software to simulate cuts and predict light performance, enabling unparalleled precision in and . These tools complement the company's artisanal expertise, reducing waste and elevating quality in every polished gem. Reflecting a commitment to responsibility, Coster Diamonds has shifted to sustainable sourcing of rough diamonds, procuring exclusively from verified, conflict-free origins compliant with the Kimberley Process. In-house processes include rigorous evaluation and certification through partnerships with authoritative bodies like the (GIA), (IGI), and HRD Antwerp, ensuring all stones meet ethical and traceability standards before entering production. Daily operations at Coster Diamonds encompass a meticulous from initial evaluation—assessing clarity, color, and potential yield—to precise cutting, bruting, and final on specialized scaifes. With a team of more than 20 master polishers, the facility upholds centuries-old techniques alongside modern innovations to produce gems renowned for their brilliance and integrity.

Tourism, Education, and Visitor Experiences

Royal Coster Diamonds has offered free guided tours of its facilities since the , following the company's relocation to Amsterdam's Museum Square in 1970, providing visitors with insights into the . These 45-minute sessions typically include demonstrations of live by master craftsmen, a viewing of the replica of the historic repolished by the company in 1852, and an exploration of a dedicated wall or exhibit chronicling history. Tours are conducted in multiple languages, with guides fluent in over 30 options to accommodate international visitors. In addition to standard tours, Royal Coster Diamonds provides educational workshops focused on the four Cs of diamonds—cut, color, clarity, and weight—to enhance public understanding of evaluation and craftsmanship. These sessions, held in the company's open workshops, allow participants to observe artisans at work and learn about origins through the adjacent Diamond Museum, which features exhibits on famous stones and the evolution of polishing techniques. The museum, established in 2007, serves as a key educational hub, drawing from the company's 180-year heritage to contextualize Amsterdam's role as a historic diamond center. Prior to 2020, the facility attracted over 300,000 visitors annually, establishing it as a prominent attraction in Amsterdam's . Post-pandemic adaptations have maintained accessibility through continued in-person tours while emphasizing health protocols, though specific hybrid virtual options remain unconfirmed in . Royal Coster Diamonds integrates with local efforts by featuring prominently on platforms like I amsterdam, facilitating its inclusion in Museum Square itineraries alongside major cultural sites. This collaboration underscores the company's role in promoting Amsterdam's diamond heritage to global audiences.

Jewelry Collections and Ethical Practices

Royal Coster Diamonds offers a range of jewelry collections that emphasize craftsmanship and certified quality, including the Coster Classics line featuring timeless, heritage-inspired designs in diamond and gold. These pieces draw from the company's 184-year tradition of diamond polishing in Amsterdam, utilizing certified natural diamonds set in fine metals. The Coster Creations collection focuses on bespoke jewelry, particularly custom engagement rings, where customers can select loose diamonds and pair them with personalized settings crafted by in-house goldsmiths. For those seeking unmounted stones, the company maintains an extensive inventory of over 10,000 loose diamonds, each certified by leading independent labs such as GIA, IGI, and HRD Antwerp to verify authenticity, quality, and origin. Notable examples incorporate innovative cuts like the Royal 201 signature, enhancing brilliance in select pieces. In line with industry standards, Royal Coster Diamonds commits to ethical sourcing by providing 100% conflict-free diamonds, adhering to the established in 2003, which has reduced the trade in conflict diamonds to less than 1% of the global market. The company sources its diamonds exclusively from ethical mines in countries including , , , , and , ensuring that proceeds support local communities through investments in , , and healthcare. This approach aligns with broader efforts in the diamond sector to promote transparency and social responsibility since the early . The company's sales model combines in-person and digital channels for accessibility. Its boutique, located at Museum Square in , serves as the primary retail space for viewing and purchasing collections, tours, and custom designs. Online, customers can browse the full range of jewelry and loose diamonds via the platform, with options for virtual consultations to discuss customizations. Global shipping is available worldwide, with secure, insured delivery for orders, including free shipping on purchases over €1,500 within . Royal Coster Diamonds integrates into its operations as part of its core mission, emphasizing and respect for people and the planet alongside traditional diamond craftsmanship. While specific annual sustainability reports are not publicly detailed, the company's ethical sourcing practices contribute to reduced environmental and social impacts in the supply chain.

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