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Coyote Buttes

Coyote Buttes is a remote area of colorful formations located along the Arizona-Utah border within the , renowned for its striking geological features shaped by ancient wind-blown dunes and modern erosion. The region, managed by the U.S. Bureau of Land Management (), is located within the approximately 112,500-acre and is divided into Coyote Buttes North and Coyote Buttes South, each requiring permits to access due to the fragile nature of the terrain. Coyote Buttes North, centered around the iconic —a wave-like structure—is accessible via a strenuous 6.4-mile round-trip hike with no developed trails, limiting daily visitors to 64 through a lottery system to preserve the wilderness character. Geologically, Coyote Buttes consists primarily of the Lower , the largest ancient erg (sand sea) in Earth's history, which preserves cyclic from wind patterns and displays vibrant colors from diagenetic processes during burial and fluid interactions. These formations, sculpted by water incision and prevailing winds, include unique features such as alcoves, bowls, bluffs, trackways, and Mars-analog weathering cracks, making the area significant for studies in , , and . Coyote Buttes South offers similar vistas but emphasizes solitude, with access requiring a high-clearance, four-wheel-drive over rough roads followed by hikes through deep sand, and permits also allocated via lottery to minimize environmental impact. The entire area lacks facilities, demanding visitors to have navigation skills, physical fitness, and adherence to principles to protect its pristine, visually spectacular landscape.

Location and geography

Boundaries and extent

Coyote Buttes is a relatively small area along the Arizona-Utah border, primarily in Kane County, Utah, and Coconino County, Arizona. This region lies within the Vermilion Cliffs National Monument, which is part of the broader Colorado Plateau physiographic province. Elevations in the area range from about 4,500 to 5,500 feet, contributing to its high-desert landscape characterized by undulating sandstone terrain. The area is administratively divided into Coyote Buttes North, which includes the renowned formation known as , and Coyote Buttes South, managed separately by the to control access and preserve resources. The Paria River serves as a natural eastern boundary, separating Coyote Buttes from the adjacent Paria Canyon. These divisions reflect the area's position within the larger 112,500-acre , where Coyote Buttes represents a distinctive subset of erosional features carved from the . Access to Coyote Buttes typically begins at the Wire Pass Trailhead, a key entry point off House Rock Valley Road. The region is situated roughly 40 miles south of the town of , providing a gateway for visitors exploring southern and .

Environmental conditions

Coyote Buttes experiences an characterized by extreme temperature variations and low precipitation. Summers are intensely hot, with daytime highs often reaching up to 100°F (38°C), while winters bring cold conditions, with nighttime lows dropping as low as 0°F (-18°C). Annual precipitation averages 6-8 inches, primarily occurring as sporadic monsoonal rains in late summer or winter snow, which frequently result in flash floods that can rapidly alter the landscape and pose significant risks to visitors. Vegetation in the area is sparse and adapted to the harsh, dry conditions, dominated by drought-tolerant shrubs such as big sagebrush (Artemisia tridentata) and rubber rabbitbrush (Ericameria nauseosa), with occasional clumps of cacti like hedgehog cactus (Echinocereus spp.) dotting the sandy terrain. The region's fragile cryptobiotic soil crusts, formed by cyanobacteria, lichens, mosses, and algae, play a crucial role in stabilizing the loose dune soils, preventing erosion, and retaining moisture in this water-scarce environment; however, these crusts are highly susceptible to damage from foot traffic, which can take decades to recover. Wildlife is diverse yet adapted to the arid setting, including (Ovis canadensis nelsoni), coyotes ( latrans), western diamondback rattlesnakes (Crotalus atrox), and such as golden eagles (Aquila chrysaetos) and reintroduced California condors (Gymnogyps californianus). There are no permanent sources, but ephemeral pools form in depressions after rainfall, providing critical, temporary hydration for animals and highlighting the area's ecological fragility. High winds, often exceeding 30 mph, are a defining feature that continuously shape the buttes through and transport, contributing to the formation of iconic features like while creating hazards such as sudden that reduce visibility and increase the risk of disorientation for hikers.

Geological formation

Origin of the

The , which forms the bedrock of Coyote Buttes, was deposited during the period, approximately 200 to 180 million years ago, in a vast erg or sea spanning a subtropical environment across what is now the . This ancient featured enormous windblown dunes that migrated across the landscape, creating thick sequences of cross-bedded layers preserved today. The formation's depositional setting was influenced by regional tectonics and a drying climate following the , with the erg representing one of the largest known aeolian systems in Earth's history, covering an estimated 140,000 to 150,000 square miles from and northward into parts of , , and . The cross-stratification within the provides key evidence of the paleoenvironment, with large-scale sets of inclined bedding planes indicating dune migration and prevailing wind directions primarily from the north-northwest. These cross-beds, formed by avalanching sand on the lee sides of dunes, can reach thicknesses of up to 100 feet (30 m) in places, reflecting the scale of the original dune fields that accumulated quartz-rich sands derived from eroding highlands to the north and east. The northern margin of the erg may have been subtly influenced by the encroaching , an epicontinental seaway that later transgressed from the north during the , though the primary deposition occurred in hyper-arid conditions with minimal marine input. Following deposition, the was buried beneath younger sediments, including marine and fluvial deposits from the Middle and , reaching depths of several thousand feet that facilitated early cementation and preservation of the dune structures. This burial persisted through much of the era until the , a mountain-building event between 70 and 40 million years ago, uplifted the region through compressional tectonics associated with the subduction of the beneath . The subsequent exposure of the sandstone to has shaped the modern landscape of Coyote Buttes, revealing the ancient dune remnants.

Coloration and diagenesis

The of the in Coyote Buttes primarily involved the cementation of sand grains by silica through quartz overgrowths and by in localized concretions, which helped preserve the rock's while facilitating later fluid interactions. minerals played a central role in coloration, with (Fe₂O₃) forming grain coatings and cements that stained the in , orange, and pink, while and produced yellow and brown hues. These were mobilized and precipitated during in the to early (approximately 50-80 million years ago), when eastward-flowing paleofluids interacted with the porous under Laramide-aged faulting influences. Recent studies (as of 2025) using concretions from the have revealed records of long-term geomagnetic variations, further illuminating processes. Banding patterns in the Coyote Buttes arose from fluctuating water tables and episodic shifts between oxidizing and reducing conditions during , leading to alternating layers of iron-rich reds, oranges, pinks, and bleached whites. Oxidizing environments promoted precipitation, creating vibrant red bands, whereas reducing fluids—likely hydrocarbon-bearing—dissolved iron oxides in higher-permeability zones, resulting in white or pale layers that contrast sharply with surrounding colors. These patterns often appear as Liesegang bands on scales of centimeters to meters, driven by diffusive iron transport across boundaries and overprinted on earlier color . Modern precipitation from seeps in the further enhances the surface coloration, as field studies have documented the formation of micro-concretions (less than 2 mm in diameter) and secondary crystals in orange and yellow bands. These ongoing processes involve the mobilization of dissolved iron in shallow , which precipitates upon exposure to oxygen, adding fresh stains to weathered exposures. Permeability variations, typically 10-100 millidarcies in uncemented grainflow and windripple strata but dropping to hundredths of a millidarcy in tighter interdune deposits, control the distribution of these colors by directing fluid pathways and limiting iron transport in low-permeability zones. These diagenetic colors are vividly showcased in formations like .

Erosional features

The Wave and similar formations

The Wave is an iconic sandstone formation in Coyote Buttes North, consisting of intersecting U-shaped troughs carved into the Jurassic , with one primary trough measuring approximately 62 feet wide by 118 feet long and a narrower secondary trough about 7 feet wide by 52 feet long. This curving wall, rising roughly 10 feet high and extending around 150 feet in length, exemplifies differential erosion that highlights the cross-bedded layers of ancient petrified dunes, creating smooth, flowing contours in vibrant reds, oranges, and yellows derived from . Access to The Wave requires a special permit from the and involves a strenuous 3-mile one-way hike from the Wire Pass trailhead through unmarked desert terrain. Similar erosional features in the area include the Second Wave, a smaller alcove nearby that mirrors the undulating patterns of on a more intimate scale, and the Top of the Wave, an elevated vantage point offering views of the petrified dunes' layered contours and subtle color variations. These structures showcase the same aeolian cross-stratification, where wind-deposited sands from the have been sculpted into wave-like forms, emphasizing the region's unique preservation of ancient desert dynamics. The formations have developed through wind and occasional water erosion exploiting weaknesses in the variably cemented layers, following initial incision along joints during regional uplift. Wind remains the dominant force today, abrading the surfaces to accentuate bedding planes and create erosional steps aligned with prevailing westerly directions, while sporadic flash floods in the arid environment contribute to polishing the , imparting a distinctive glass-like sheen to these north-area features.

Buttes in Coyote Buttes South

Coyote Buttes South, within the , showcases dispersed mound-like buttes and canyon features shaped primarily by fluvial and joint-controlled erosion processes. Unlike the more concentrated, horizontally layered structures to the north, the erosional landscape here highlights vertical jointing and isolated spire-like pinnacles, resulting from near-vertical fractures and joints linked to Laramide-aged faulting and subsequent incision. Prominent features include the Pastel Buttes, a series of layered mounds displaying cyclic eolian cross-strata in red, orange, pink, and purple hues derived from and iron oxides. These buttes, along with nearby bleached white exposures up to 100 meters thick, exemplify broader that has carved rounded, pastel-toned elevations through advective fluid flow and iron mobilization across six diagenetic , each tens of meters thick. The region also contains slot canyons such as and The Ribbon, narrow passages sculpted along vertical joints with heights reaching up to 200 feet in the exposures exceeding 200 meters thick. These canyons vary in width from 1 to , emphasizing the area's emphasis on vertical that produces spire-like pinnacles and erosion-resistant fins from iron-rich Liesegang bands, contrasting with the horizontal aeolian bedding dominant elsewhere. Overall coloration in these southern features stems from distributions, with bleached zones enhancing the visual contrast in the dispersed landscape.

Paleontology

Discovery of the dinosaur trackway

The dinosaur trackway at Coyote Buttes was first noticed in the early 2000s by hikers exploring the remote area and subsequently reported to Bureau of Land Management (BLM) rangers, who documented initial observations around that time. The site, spanning approximately 0.75 acres (0.3 hectares) and containing over 1,000 dinosaur prints, is located about 0.5 miles (0.8 km) northeast of the iconic Wave formation in Coyote Buttes North, within the Paria Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness. Erosion processes in the Navajo Sandstone during the late 20th century gradually exposed the surface, revealing the densely packed impressions that had been preserved beneath overlying sediments. In 2005, geologist Marjorie Chan visited the site at the invitation of a puzzled , initially mistaking the features for erosion-formed potholes. Further examinations by Chan and master's student Winston Seiler confirmed the depressions as tracks, leading to formal scientific documentation. The trackway's remarkable density—averaging up to 12 prints per square meter in places—prompted the popular moniker " floor" among researchers, highlighting its significance as a rare trample surface from the . This discovery garnered attention from paleontologists at the , culminating in peer-reviewed publications in 2008 that detailed the assemblage, including theropod prints among others. The findings underscored the area's paleontological value, drawing institutional interest for further study while emphasizing the need for careful visitation to avoid damage.

Description and interpretation of tracks

The vertebrate track assemblage at Coyote Buttes primarily consists of small theropod tracks measuring 5–15 cm in length, characterized by tridactyl with impressions of long, sharp claws. These tracks often appear on slopes and include rare crouching traces that preserve impressions of all four limbs, an ischial , and a , indicating behaviors such as resting or pausing on the . Additionally, Navahopus sauropodomorph tracks, identified as a new ichnospecies Navahopus coyoteensis, feature quadrupedal pes impressions approximately 20 cm long with tetradactyl , deep hypices between digits III and IV, and prominent inward-directed pollex claw marks on the tridactyl manus. Rare drag marks accompany some tracks, suggesting interactions on a moist surface that allowed for such preservation. These tracks are preserved on an interdune surface within the Lower Jurassic , dated to approximately 200 million years ago during the epoch. The substrate conditions at the time point to a wet interdune or lakeside environment, where periodic events created damp sands amid the dominant aeolian dune field, enabling the co-occurrence and overprinting of tracks from multiple species, including theropods and basal sauropodomorphs. This high-density trample surface, once interpreted as evidence of chaotic or social behavior among dinosaurs, has been reexamined in a 2021 study published in PALAIOS, which argues that many features previously identified as biogenic traces—such as small, irregular pits on the "dinosaur dance floor"—are instead modern weathering pits resulting from and processes on the exposed sandstone surface. The tracks provide key insights into Early Jurassic dinosaur behavior and locomotion in a dynamic desert ecosystem. Crouching theropod traces suggest adaptive postures for stability on steep dune faces (up to 32° inclination), possibly for resting or vigilance, while sauropodomorph trackways indicate quadrupedal progression up slopes, initially laterally before shifting to direct ascent. Locomotion speeds for the smaller theropod forms are estimated at 5–10 km/h based on stride lengths and trackway patterns, reflecting walking gaits typical of non-avian theropods navigating interdune areas. Overall, the assemblage highlights diverse theropod-sauropodomorph interactions in a wetter microhabitat within an expansive erg, contributing to understandings of dinosaur paleoecology during the Early Jurassic.

Visitation and access

Permit requirements

Access to Coyote Buttes is regulated by the (BLM) through a permit system designed to control visitor numbers and minimize environmental impact in this designated wilderness area. Permits are required for all day-use visits to both Coyote Buttes North and Coyote Buttes South, with no overnight allowed in the permit areas. Applications are processed exclusively through Recreation.gov, and all permits are non-refundable and non-transferable. Coyote Buttes North, home to , limits permits to a maximum of 64 people per day to preserve the site's delicate features. Of these, 48 spots (12 groups) are allocated via an advanced online , where applications can be submitted anytime during a given month for hiking dates four months in the future, with results announced on the first day of the following month at 9:00 AM Mountain Time. The remaining 16 spots (4 groups) are available through a daily online , accessible only from within a designated area using the Recreation.gov or browser, with applications accepted from 6:00 AM to 6:00 PM two days prior to the desired date and results posted by 7:15 PM that evening. Successful daily lottery applicants must confirm payment by 8:00 AM the next day and attend an in-person safety briefing at 8:30 AM before picking up the permit. The non-refundable application fee for the advanced lottery is $6 per entry, while selected applicants pay an additional recreation fee of $7 per person (including infants) and per ; dogs are permitted but must be listed on the permit. Group sizes are capped at 6 people, who must remain together throughout the , and no vehicles are allowed beyond the Wire Pass trailhead. For Coyote Buttes South, daily permits are limited to 20 people (up to 10 groups). Half are issued through an advanced online reservation system on a first-come, first-served basis, opening at noon Mountain Time on the first day of the month three months prior to the hiking month (e.g., applications for August open May 1). The other 10 spots are awarded via a daily lottery similar to that for the North, requiring presence and mobile application two days in advance. The fee is $5 per person and per , with dogs allowed if included on the permit; the maximum group size is also 6, and high-clearance, four-wheel-drive vehicles are required for access due to deep sand roads, with no vehicles permitted beyond designated trailheads. In peripheral areas such as the upper sections of , self-issued day-use permits are available without a , purchasable online or at kiosks through Recreation.gov for $6 per person aged 13 and over (children 12 years and under free), $6 per dog, though registration is mandatory and there is no daily cap. These permits do not grant access to the core Coyote Buttes areas. To safeguard fragile cryptobiotic soils and other sensitive features, off-trail travel is strictly prohibited, and visitors must adhere to established paths or natural routes to avoid and biological damage. periods operate year-round, but applications for winter visits ( through ) typically open from the preceding through via the monthly advanced cycles. Exploring Coyote Buttes requires preparation due to the remote desert environment and lack of marked trails, with permits necessary for access to both North and South areas. In Coyote Buttes North, the primary recommended route is a 6.4-mile round-trip hike from the Wire Pass Trailhead to , rated as strenuous and typically taking 3 to 5 hours depending on pace and exploration. The path involves navigating sandy washes, rocky sections, and undulating terrain with approximately 1,200 feet of total elevation gain, demanding good skills using maps or GPS. For Coyote Buttes South, popular exploratory loops range from 4 to 8 miles, often starting from the Stateline or Cottonwood Cove Trailhead and targeting features like the Pastel Buttes or , with durations of 2 to 6 hours based on the extent of wandering. These off-trail routes feature deep sand, minor over rock formations, and require route-finding, making them moderately challenging for those comfortable with unstructured . Key safety considerations include the risk of flash floods, particularly in washes; hikers should monitor weather forecasts through the (NOAA) and avoid the area during rain or high precipitation warnings. is a major hazard in summer, so carry at least one gallon of water per person and supplements, along with sun protection and light clothing. Navigation challenges arise from unmarked paths, necessitating a GPS device, , and to prevent disorientation in the expansive wilderness. Rattlesnakes inhabit the region, so watch footing in rocky areas, wear sturdy closed-toe boots, and maintain awareness, especially during warmer months when they are active. The optimal visiting periods are to May or to , when temperatures are milder (typically 50-80°F) and risks are lower compared to summer monsoons. For photography of the striped formations, plan hikes around sunrise or sunset to capture soft lighting and minimize harsh midday shadows that obscure details.

Conservation efforts

Management by authorities

Coyote Buttes is overseen by the (BLM) as part of the , which was designated on November 9, 2000, to protect its unique geological and biological features. The management involves interagency coordination with the , particularly for adjacent areas like the Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument, to address shared trailheads and cross-boundary resources. BLM policies emphasize sustainable visitation to minimize environmental degradation, including adherence to principles such as packing out all waste and avoiding damage to cryptobiotic soil crusts. These guidelines also promote responsible by encouraging visitors to stay on designated routes and respect fragile formations, with rangers patrolling to enforce compliance. Visitor impacts are monitored annually through collaborative programs with , focusing on recreation effects like trail erosion and vegetation disturbance in Coyote Buttes. The BLM partners with universities, including the Utah Museum of Natural History, for geological and paleontological research, such as mapping track sites to inform protection strategies. Revenue from permit fees is reinvested directly into the , funding trail maintenance, facility upkeep in permit areas, and educational resources like informational kiosks at trailheads to promote awareness. This supports ongoing efforts to mitigate issues like from foot traffic.

Challenges and protections

Coyote Buttes faces several environmental threats primarily driven by human activity and regional climatic shifts. Foot traffic from visitors erodes fragile biological soil crusts, known as cryptobiotic crusts, which stabilize the arid desert soils and support native plant life; current levels of use already cause minor degradation to these crusts, increasing vulnerability to wind and water erosion. Vandalism, including carvings and graffiti on delicate Navajo Sandstone formations like The Wave, further damages irreplaceable geologic features, with recent incidents involving initials etched into rock walls reported in 2025. Climate change exacerbates these issues by intensifying flash floods in the region, which can accelerate erosion of the sandstone structures and disrupt the ecosystem, as seen in increased flood frequency across the Colorado Plateau. To mitigate these threats, the (BLM) employs targeted protections, including a strict permit system that limits daily visitation to 64 people in Coyote Buttes North and 20 people in Coyote Buttes South, preserving the area's wilderness character. In 2021, daily permits for Coyote Buttes North were increased from 20 to 64 to balance access and protection, while South remains at 20. Geofencing technology integrated into the Recreation.gov mobile app enforces permit applications for the daily lottery, requiring users to be within a designated perimeter around , to participate and ensuring compliance with boundaries. Volunteer ranger programs supplement these efforts, with BLM recruiting patrols to monitor visitor safety, enforce regulations, and educate hikers on minimizing impacts in Coyote Buttes North. Restoration initiatives focus on invasive species removal, such as ongoing tamarisk eradication along the nearby Paria River, to rehabilitate riparian habitats and reduce competition with native vegetation. Paleontological resources, including dinosaur track sites within the , receive specialized safeguards to prevent further degradation. The "Dinosaur Dance Floor" site, initially interpreted as a trampled surface with theropod tracks, has been off-limits to direct access since its documentation, with visitors required to view from a distance to avoid compaction and of the fragile . Interpretive signage at trailheads provides educational context while prohibiting closer approaches. A 2021 study reinterpreting the site as a series of pits rather than biogenic tracks prompted updates to educational materials, emphasizing natural erosional processes over paleontological claims to better align public understanding with scientific evidence. Long-term conservation goals outlined in BLM's 2020 Environmental Assessment for the include to adjust visitation if monitoring detects excessive impacts, such as expanded trail delineation and potential fee increases to fund protections. The 2020 plan, based on 2018 data showing over 200,000 permit applications for roughly 7,300 slots (under the then-20 daily limit for North), prioritized maintaining or reducing access thresholds to below 24,000 annual visitors for North. Following the 2021 increase, annual slots for North are approximately 23,000—to prevent spillover degradation in adjacent areas like White Pocket, where visitation surged 1,687% from 2010 to 2018.

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