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Gilbert Le Coze

Gilbert Le Coze (1945–1994) was a French chef celebrated for his pioneering approach to seafood cuisine, emphasizing freshness, precision, and innovative techniques that treated fish with the respect typically reserved for meat.^[1] Born in Brittany, he drew inspiration from his coastal heritage—his grandfather was a fisherman and his father a chef—beginning his culinary journey at age 13 in the family-run Hôtel de Rhuys in Port Navalo.^[2] In 1972, Le Coze co-founded the original Le Bernardin restaurant in Paris with his sister Maguy Le Coze, specializing in seafood and earning two Michelin stars by 1982 for its simple yet masterful preparations.^[2] Le Coze's innovations included texture-driven cooking methods, where timing was determined by the desired mouthfeel rather than rigid recipes, and subtle Japanese influences in presentation that highlighted the natural flavors of ingredients.^[1] In 1986, the siblings relocated the concept to New York City, opening Le Bernardin in Midtown Manhattan as a seafood-only venue that quickly garnered a four-star review from The New York Times and three Michelin stars, adapting the menu to showcase local American catches from the Fulton Fish Market.^[3] His philosophy of "the fish is the star of the plate" revolutionized fine dining in the U.S., influencing a generation of chefs by prioritizing quality sourcing and minimal intervention to let seafood shine.^[3] In 1994, Le Coze expanded with Brasserie Le Coze outposts in Coconut Grove, Florida—named one of America's best 25 restaurants by Esquire—and Atlanta, Georgia, but he died suddenly of a heart attack on July 28 at age 49 while exercising in Manhattan.^[2]^[4] His legacy endures through Le Bernardin in New York, now led by chef Eric Ripert under Maguy Le Coze's ownership, consistently ranking as one of the world's top restaurants for nearly four decades.^[3]

Early Life

Childhood and Family Background

Gilbert Le Coze was born in 1945 in France and grew up in the coastal fishing village of Port Navalo in Brittany, where his parents owned and operated a modest inn and restaurant known as the Hotel de Rhuys.^[1]^[5] His father served as the chef in the family establishment, imparting early knowledge of cooking, while his mother managed the dining room, exposing the young Gilbert to the rhythms of hospitality from an early age.^[4]^[6] The family's business, situated in a region renowned for its seafood bounty, provided Gilbert with direct immersion in Breton culinary traditions centered on fresh, local catches, though his parents' operation was not a high-profile culinary venture but rather a community-oriented inn.^[7] Le Coze shared a close bond with his older sister, Maguy Le Coze, with whom he grew up in a single shared room at the family hotel, fostering a collaborative spirit that would later define their professional partnership.^[6] Family meals at home emphasized simple preparations using high-quality, seasonal ingredients sourced from the surrounding seaport, nurturing their mutual interest in food as a communal and sensory experience rather than a formal pursuit.^[8] This sibling dynamic, rooted in everyday shared responsibilities, laid the groundwork for their future endeavors without initial ambitions toward professional gastronomy.^[5] His childhood in coastal Brittany profoundly shaped Le Coze's affinity for seafood, as he spent considerable time fishing alongside his grandfather, a local fisherman, and observing the daily arrival of fresh marine produce at the village docks.^[1]^[4] These experiences extended to informal cooking experiments at home, where he began assisting in the kitchen around age 13, experimenting with simple seafood dishes under his father's guidance and developing an intuitive understanding of flavors derived from the sea.^[7] Such hands-on activities in the family setting, amid the rugged Breton landscape, instilled a lifelong reverence for pristine ingredients and minimalistic techniques long before any structured culinary education.^[5]

Initial Culinary Training

Gilbert Le Coze's initial culinary training began informally within his family environment in Brittany, France, where he was born in 1945 into a household deeply immersed in the hospitality industry.^[4] Growing up in Port Navalo, a coastal seaport town, Le Coze developed an early fascination with seafood through his parents' operation of the Hotel de Rhuys, a small inn and restaurant that emphasized fresh, local marine ingredients.^[2] This childhood exposure to the rhythms of fishing and preparation laid the foundation for his lifelong specialization in seafood, as the family's business provided a hands-on introduction to the sourcing and handling of fish and shellfish.^[9] At the age of 13, Le Coze began working in the kitchen of the family inn, marking the start of his practical, self-directed culinary education.^[10] Under the guidance of his father, who was also a chef, he learned fundamental French techniques through daily immersion rather than formal instruction, focusing on precision in preparation and the importance of freshness—principles that became hallmarks of his style.^[1] Described by his sister Maguy as an autodidact who never attended culinary school, Le Coze honed his skills by experimenting with the abundant seafood available in Brittany, building a self-taught repertoire that prioritized simplicity and respect for ingredients over elaborate classicism.^[2]^[3] This early phase of training, spanning his teenage years, instilled in Le Coze a profound understanding of seafood's nuances, from poaching delicate fish to balancing flavors with regional herbs and sauces, all without the structure of institutional education.^[11] By his late teens, around age 18, his accumulated knowledge from the family kitchen had equipped him with the confidence to pursue professional opportunities, setting the stage for his innovative contributions to French cuisine.^[4]

Career Beginnings

Early Restaurant Roles

Gilbert Le Coze began his culinary career at age 13 in the family-owned Hôtel de Rhuys in Port Navalo, Brittany, where he worked alongside his father in the kitchen of the small inn and restaurant.^[1] There, as a young cook, he began experimenting with lighter preparations of shellfish, drawing on the fresh catches supplied by his grandfather, a local fisherman, to create dishes that emphasized simplicity and the natural flavors of seafood.^[1] He continued gaining experience during his teenage years and into the early 1970s, including working winters at popular clubs and restaurants in the French Alps.^[2] Le Coze's partnership with his sister Maguy took shape during these years at the family establishment, where she assisted with front-of-house operations, honing her business acumen in customer service and restaurant management while he focused on the culinary side.^[2] This collaboration laid the foundation for their future joint ventures, blending his kitchen innovations with her operational expertise.^[12] Through trial-and-error in this modest venue, Le Coze developed his personal culinary style, prioritizing fresh, minimally altered seafood preparations that avoided heavy sauces in favor of highlighting texture and quality ingredients—skills rooted in his early training under his father.^[1]

Le Bernardin

Founding in Paris

In 1972, Gilbert Le Coze and his sister Maguy Le Coze, both in their twenties and hailing from a family of restaurateurs in Brittany, opened Le Bernardin on the Quai de la Tournelle along the Seine's Left Bank in Paris, offering a panoramic view of Notre-Dame. Drawing on their Breton heritage and Gilbert's expertise in seafood honed from the family-run Hôtel de Rhuys in Port Navalo, the siblings launched the venture with limited resources, pooling savings and loans from friends to create a modest space dedicated exclusively to fish and shellfish. Gilbert served as the head chef, emphasizing meticulous sourcing from French markets to ensure peak freshness, while Maguy managed front-of-house operations, fostering an elegant yet approachable atmosphere that complemented the culinary focus.^[8]^[13]^[14] The initial menu at Le Bernardin showcased Gilbert's philosophy of simplicity and respect for ingredients, featuring preparations that highlighted natural flavors without heavy sauces or elaborate embellishments, inspired by the clean, elemental seafood traditions of Brittany. Dishes centered on gently cooked proteins, such as barely cooked salmon with sorrel sauce and poached turbot with hollandaise, presented alongside seasonal vegetables and light emulsions to underscore texture and purity. This seafood-only approach, rare for Paris at the time, positioned Le Bernardin as a pioneer in elevating fish to fine-dining status, attracting a discerning clientele eager for innovative yet restrained Breton-influenced cuisine.^[8]^[15]^[1] Le Bernardin's early years marked a swift ascent in Paris's competitive dining scene, building a loyal following through consistent quality and word-of-mouth praise. By 1976, the restaurant earned its first Michelin star, recognizing Gilbert's precise techniques and the venue's unwavering commitment to fresh, market-driven offerings. This accolade, followed by a second star in 1982 after a relocation to larger premises on rue Troyon near the Arc de Triomphe, solidified its reputation as a seafood destination, though the foundational success stemmed from the original Quai location's intimate charm and culinary innovation.^[8]^[16]^[17]

Relocation to New York

In 1986, building on the success of their Paris restaurant, which had earned two Michelin stars by 1982, Gilbert and Maguy Le Coze decided to expand Le Bernardin to New York City, viewing the American market as an untapped opportunity for high-end seafood dining amid limited competition there.^[8]^[14] Maguy, driven by her affinity for New York's vibrant energy, spearheaded the relocation despite Gilbert's initial reservations about ingredient quality and his limited English proficiency.^[3] The siblings opened the new location on January 28 in the Equitable Center at 155 West 51st Street, adjacent to Rockefeller Center, where Maguy oversaw front-of-house operations, ensuring a seamless blend of French elegance and American efficiency.^[14]^[18] Adapting their precise French techniques to the U.S. presented significant challenges, particularly in sourcing fresh seafood to match Parisian standards. Gilbert, initially unfamiliar with the Fulton Fish Market, negotiated directly with suppliers to secure high-quality imports and local alternatives, ultimately shifting focus to sustainable North American species from New England day boats to maintain consistency.^[3] This required ongoing adjustments to the menu, emphasizing regional availability while preserving the restaurant's commitment to simplicity and respect for ingredients.^[3] Le Bernardin rapidly established itself as a premier fine-dining destination in Manhattan, earning a four-star review from The New York Times just three months after opening, a rating reaffirmed in 1989 for its unwavering excellence.^[8]^[19] This early acclaim, coupled with the Le Cozes' dedication to quality, positioned the restaurant as a benchmark for seafood cuisine in the U.S., drawing international attention and solidifying its transatlantic legacy.^[8]

Operational Innovations

Under Gilbert Le Coze's leadership at Le Bernardin in New York, the restaurant implemented a seafood-only menu that changed daily based on the availability of fresh catches from the Fulton Fish Market, ensuring that every dish featured ingredients at their peak quality and highlighting regional North American species such as New England seafood from day boats.^[3] Le Coze personally visited the market each night to select the finest offerings, adapting the menu to reflect what was sustainably and optimally available that day, which set a new standard for freshness in fine dining and distinguished the restaurant from more static menus of the era.^[3] This approach, rooted in the Paris original but refined after the 1986 relocation to address challenges in sourcing from American waters, emphasized simplicity and respect for the ingredient's natural state.^[3] Staff training protocols at Le Bernardin under Le Coze focused on precision and restraint, with an emphasis on minimal intervention in cooking techniques to preserve and elevate the seafood's inherent flavors, encapsulated in the philosophy that "the fish is the star of the plate."^[3] Le Coze fostered a supportive kitchen environment by addressing errors privately rather than publicly, promoting loyalty, humility, and a collaborative spirit among the team to maintain high standards without intimidation.^[12] This method trained cooks to prioritize the quality of raw materials over elaborate preparations, resulting in dishes that showcased subtle innovations while avoiding overcomplication.^[12] The business model at Le Bernardin integrated close family oversight, with Le Coze and his sister Maguy collaborating seamlessly—Gilbert handling the culinary vision while Maguy managed the front-of-house operations to cultivate an elegant yet welcoming atmosphere that contrasted sharply with the rigid formality of traditional French dining.^[3] Maguy's influence introduced a Parisian flair of style and conviviality, featuring spacious seating, exceptional acoustics for intimate conversations, thick carpets, and artistic elements like family portraits, creating a relaxed power-dining venue where guests felt at ease amid luxury.^[20] This family-driven structure ensured operational cohesion, allowing the restaurant to deliver consistent excellence in service and ambiance from its inception in New York.^[12]

Culinary Style

Seafood Specialization

Gilbert Le Coze's culinary philosophy centered on treating seafood as a delicate ingredient that demanded restraint in preparation to preserve its inherent flavors and textures. He viewed overcooking as a grave error, stating that it could diminish the fish's flavor by 30 percent or more, and thus advocated for simplicity and elegance in execution.^[10] Rather than relying on heavy, traditional French sauces that might overpower the seafood, Le Coze favored light broths and emulsions, which enhanced the natural taste without overwhelming it.^[10] This approach, encapsulated in the mantra that "the fish is the star of the plate," reflected his obsession with precision and his Brittany roots, where seafood's purity was paramount.^[3] Le Coze's sourcing practices underscored his commitment to freshness, directly shaping the menu at Le Bernardin. In Paris, he prioritized seafood from Atlantic waters, often live or delivered the same day, to ensure peak quality and influence daily offerings based on availability.^[8] Upon relocating to New York in 1986, he adapted this rigor by visiting the Fulton Fish Market in the early mornings to select the finest catches from New England day boats, maintaining the emphasis on same-day deliveries from regional waters.^[3] This operational focus on immediacy not only guaranteed vibrancy but also allowed the menu to evolve with seasonal and local bounty, reinforcing seafood's centrality.^[3] To uphold the purity of his vision, Le Coze firmly rejected incorporating meat or non-seafood items, distinguishing Le Bernardin from conventional French bistros that blended proteins. From its inception in 1972, the restaurant exclusively served fish and seafood, a deliberate choice born of his profound affinity for these ingredients and their health benefits.^[8] This singular dedication set Le Bernardin apart, creating a specialized haven where seafood's nuances could shine unadulterated, influencing generations of chefs to embrace focused excellence.^[12]

Key Techniques and Influences

Le Coze's mastery of poaching and steaming techniques was central to his approach, allowing him to preserve the delicate textures and natural flavors of seafood without overcooking. In preparations of lobster and monkfish, he poached or steamed the proteins gently, basing cooking times on each fish's inherent texture and character rather than rigid formulas, a method that treated seafood akin to meat for optimal results. This innovative handling ensured that ingredients like monkfish retained their firm yet tender consistency, while lobster emerged succulent and vibrant, revolutionizing seafood cookery in fine dining.^[4]^[1] His techniques drew significant influences from Japanese kaiseki cuisine, which inspired a minimalist presentation that highlighted seafood's purity through subtle seasoning and precise timing, and from French expertise in refined, emulsified sauces, which Le Coze adapted to complement rather than overpower marine ingredients. These inspirations led him to forgo heavy reductions in favor of lighter, aromatic broths and herb-infused dressings that enhanced the seafood's essence, creating dishes that balanced elegance with restraint. For instance, his use of beurre blanc variations paired with steamed fish underscored a commitment to sauce refinement tailored to oceanic flavors.^[4] Among his signature innovations were warm seafood salads, which fused French culinary precision with contemporary lightness by serving barely cooked or poached elements at room temperature to maintain vibrancy and tenderness. Dishes like warm lobster salad, featuring poached lobster tails dressed in a simple vinaigrette of olive oil, lemon, and herbs, exemplified this style, offering a textural contrast between the warm protein and crisp accompaniments without the weight of traditional composed salads. These salads elevated seafood through minimal intervention, influencing modern interpretations of composed seafood plates.^[21]^[22]^[23]

Awards and Recognition

Michelin Achievements

Le Bernardin in Paris, opened by Gilbert Le Coze and his sister Maguy in 1972, earned its first Michelin star in 1976, acknowledging Le Coze's mastery of fresh seafood preparations that emphasized simplicity and precision.^[24] This initial recognition highlighted the restaurant's rapid rise amid Paris's competitive dining scene, driven by Le Coze's innovative approach to Breton-inspired techniques. By 1982, it received a second star, cementing its status as a leading seafood destination, though it never attained the third star—a distinction Le Coze attributed to the Michelin inspectors' bias against seafood-only menus.^[13] Following the relocation to New York in 1986, Le Bernardin continued to build on Le Coze's foundational standards under his leadership until his death in 1994. When the Michelin Guide expanded to New York in 2005, the restaurant was awarded three stars in its inaugural edition, becoming the first seafood-exclusive establishment to achieve this honor and reflecting the enduring excellence Le Coze had instilled.^[16] These three stars have been retained annually ever since, underscoring the lasting impact of Le Coze's culinary vision on the restaurant's global reputation.^[25]

Other Honors and Nominations

Under Gilbert Le Coze's leadership, Le Bernardin in New York received a four-star review from The New York Times in 1986, shortly after its opening, praising its exceptional seafood preparations.^[26]

Death and Legacy

Circumstances of Death

Gilbert Le Coze died on July 28, 1994, at the age of 49, from a fatal heart attack.^[1] The incident took place while he was exercising at a health club in Manhattan.^[1]^[11] At the time, Le Coze had no known prior major health diagnoses, though he had recently shifted from hands-on cooking at Le Bernardin to a more managerial role across his restaurant ventures, including new locations in Miami and Atlanta.^[1]

Impact and Continuation

Following Gilbert Le Coze's sudden death in 1994, Eric Ripert, who had joined Le Bernardin as chef de cuisine in 1991, was immediately appointed executive chef and became a co-owner in 1996, stepping in to lead the kitchen at age 29.^[16]^[3] Under Ripert's leadership, the restaurant retained its prestige, earning three Michelin stars in 2005 upon the guide's debut in New York and holding them continuously thereafter, a testament to the sustained excellence of its seafood-focused cuisine.^[27] Ripert evolved the menu by incorporating influences from his Mediterranean background while preserving Le Coze's emphasis on freshness, precision, and simplicity, creating a natural fusion that adapted classic techniques to available North American ingredients without compromising the original vision.^[3]^[28] Maguy Le Coze, Gilbert's sister and longtime co-owner, assumed greater operational control after his passing, providing crucial stability during a challenging transition period.^[6] Her steadfast leadership, blending Parisian elegance with New York dynamism, ensured Le Bernardin's resilience through economic downturns, the 9/11 attacks, and the COVID-19 pandemic, maintaining full occupancy and broad appeal to local and international diners.^[3] In 1999, Maguy partnered with Ripert to expand their ventures, forming the basis for further business growth while upholding the restaurant's core identity.^[2] Le Coze's innovations profoundly shaped American seafood cuisine, inspiring a generation of chefs through his pioneering techniques, such as treating fish like meat by adjusting cooking times based on texture and character rather than rigid formulas.^[1]^[4] His minimalist, Japanese-influenced presentations and obsession with market-fresh ingredients elevated seafood's status in fine dining, influencing prominent New York figures like David Bouley and extending impact coast to coast, where his methods became foundational for modern interpretations of the genre.^[1]^[29] This legacy endures in Le Bernardin's ongoing dominance and the broader adoption of his precision-driven approach in contemporary American kitchens. As of 2025, Le Bernardin was ranked the number one restaurant in the world by La Liste, affirming its continued preeminence.^[3]^[30]

References

[1]
Gilbert Le Coze Dies at 49; Inspired a Generation of Chefs
Jul 30, 1994 · Gilbert Le Coze, a French-born chef whose innovative ways with seafood at his Manhattan restaurant, Le Bernardin, influenced a generation of American cooks, ...
[2]
Le Bernardin by Eric Ripert | Maguy Le Coze
Born in Paris in 1972 by sibling duo Maguy and Gilbert Le Coze, Le Bernardin only served fish: Fresh, simple and prepared with respect.
[3]
An Interview With Maguy Le Coze And Eric Ripert - Forbes
Mar 13, 2024 · In 1986 Parisians Maguy and Gilbert Le Coze took a leap of faith that New York would appreciate a luxurious restaurant named Le Bernardin ...
[4]
Gilbert Le Coze; Innovative Seafood Chef - Los Angeles Times
Jul 31, 1994 · Gilbert Le Coze, 49, a French-born chef whose innovative way with seafood influenced a generation of cooks.
[5]
Sea Change - Wine Spectator
The Le Cozes grew up in a fishing village in Brittany, where their grandfather was a fisherman and their parents ran a small hotel and restaurant. Already ...
[6]
Still the Boss of Le Bernardin, Maguy Le Coze Strides On
Jun 5, 2018 · Maguy and Gilbert Le Coze in 1950 with their father, who cooked at the family hotel in Brittany where they grew up. When she was 15 and brought ...Missing: inn | Show results with:inn<|control11|><|separator|>
[7]
Born Into The Business - FOUR Magazine
Nov 14, 2014 · He worked briefly as David Bouley's sous-chef before Maguy and Gilbert Le Coze recruited him as chef, becoming head of Le Bernadin's kitchen ...
[8]
About - Le Bernardin by Eric Ripert
Born in Paris in 1972 by sibling duo Maguy and Gilbert Le Coze ... Maguy and Gilbert borrowed recipes from family members in Brittany, and their parents ...Missing: background | Show results with:background
[9]
ON A VISIT HOME TO BRITTANY, A CHEF REFRESHED HIS PALATE
Aug 5, 1987 · The LeCoze family is so passionate about seafood that their pet spaniel is named Langoustine. The younger LeCoze acknowledges his debt to his ...
[10]
LE BERNARDIN'S FOUR-STAR RECIPES - The New York Times
Apr 20, 1986 · His culinary resources derive almost exclusively from the training he received, beginning at the age of 13, in the kitchen of the small auberge ...
[11]
CHEF GILBERT LE COZE, 49, CREATOR OF SEAFOOD DISHES
Jul 31, 1994 · Gilbert Le Coze, a French-born chef whose innovative ways with seafood at his Manhattan restaurant, Le Bernardin, influenced a generation of American cooks, ...
[12]
The Family Le Coze - Wine Spectator
Gilbert taught himself how to cook. He had a rare love for seafood, and he was a very creative talent. When I began to work at Le Bernardin, I thought that I ...
[13]
Le Bernardin Celebrates Its 50th Anniversary - The New York Times
Nov 7, 2022 · Le Coze and her brother, Gilbert, first opened their seafood restaurant in 1972 on the Left Bank in Paris, with a view of Notre Dame, then ...
[14]
How to run Le Bernardin | Jancis Robinson
Sep 8, 2012 · In 1972 Gilbert and Maguy opened their first restaurant, the original Le Bernardin on the Quai de la Tournelle, close to the banks of the ...
[15]
http://insatiable-critic.com/Article.aspx?ID=464
[16]
The First Day I Got My Michelin Stars: Eric Ripert
Apr 23, 2018 · ... Gilbert Le Coze to work at Le Bernardin. After the sudden death of Gilbert due to a heart attack, Ripert immediately took over the kitchen ...
[17]
For a Stellar Fish House, a Big Night in Paris - The New York Times
Mar 19, 1997 · When Le Bernardin earned its first two-star Michelin rating here in 1981, in unprepossessing quarters on the rue Troyon near the Arc de ...
[18]
BERNARDIN IN PARIS SOLD - The New York Times
Dec 24, 1986 · A year ago the Le Cozes opened a sumptuous New York branch of Le Bernardin in the Equitable Assurance Tower on Seventh Avenue at 51st Street ...
[19]
Le Bernardin - Home - New York Journal
Nov 17, 2008 · They closed their Paris restaurant in December 1986 to focus on New York full-time. Bryan Miller awarded four stars yet again in February 1989.
[20]
Le Bernardin's glamorous patronne | Jancis Robinson
Jun 4, 2011 · As she did so, our main courses, poached turbot with a wild mushroom custard and a paupiette of skate and langoustine in a dashi broth, were ...Missing: Gilbert beurre
[21]
Warm Lobster Salad Recipe - Epicurious
Rating 4.5 (5) Jan 27, 2005 · Editor's note: This recipe is excerpted from Maguy Le Coze and Eric Ripert's book the Le Bernardin Cookbook. To read more about Ripert, ...
[22]
FOOD; SEAFOOD COMES OF AGE - The New York Times
Sep 14, 1986 · The recipe offered is adapted from Gilbert Le Coze, chef and co-owner of Le Bernardin, a four-star seafood restaurant in Manhattan. Some ...
[23]
Mini-Review - The Austin Chronicle
Jan 11, 2002 · Siblings Gilbert and Maguy Le Coze grew up in their family's modest hotel/restaurant on the seacoast of Brittany.Missing: born | Show results with:born<|control11|><|separator|>
[24]
Le Bernardin – New York - a MICHELIN Guide Restaurant
Le Bernardin – a Three Stars: Exceptional cuisine restaurant in the 2024 MICHELIN Guide USA. Free online booking on the MICHELIN Guide's official website.
[25]
Search Past Awards - James Beard Foundation
2025 Outstanding Chef. New York, New York. Winner. Karyn Tomlinson. 2025 Best Chef Midwest. Minnesota, St. Paul. Winner. Kumiko. 2025 Outstanding Bar. Illinois, ...
[26]
Eric Ripert: bringing the elegance of french cuisine to New York | Chef
The turning point came when Maguy and Gilbert Le Coze recruited him for Le Bernardin, their seafood restaurant. After Gilbert's untimely death in 1994, Ripert ...
[27]
Eric Ripert Doesn't Follow Food Trends - Eater
Sep 19, 2016 · Then in '91 I joined Le Bernardin, and Gilbert Le Coze, the owner and chef, passed away in '94, three years later. So I was with him, working in ...Missing: challenges | Show results with:challenges
[28]
What Chefs Talk About When They Talk About Food - La Briffe
May 12, 2023 · ... Le Bernardin, he was helping legendary chef Gilbert Le Coze change the way restaurants served fish. "Gilbert was a purist," Ripert says.<|control11|><|separator|>