Inchmickery

Inchmickery is a small, uninhabited islet in the Firth of Forth estuary in Scotland, located approximately 1.25 miles (2 km) northeast of Cramond Island, 1.5 miles (2.5 km) southeast of Inchcolm, and 2.5 miles (4 km) northwest of Granton, near Edinburgh.^[1] Measuring about 1.3 hectares (3.2 acres) in area and roughly 100 by 200 meters in extent, it features a rocky profile resembling a battleship and has remained largely inaccessible to the public due to its isolation and protected status.^[1] Historically, Inchmickery served as a strategic military site, fortified during both World Wars to defend the Forth estuary and the nearby Rosyth naval base from naval threats.^[1]^[2] In World War I, gun batteries and searchlights were installed by 1915, with armament upgraded and later removed by 1924.^[2] Reactivated in World War II, the island was re-armed in September 1939, with guns installed by April 1940 and later equipped with twin 6-pounder anti-shipping guns by 1943, along with various defensive structures; it was part of the broader Forth Defences Middle line and abandoned before the war's end, with remnants surveyed by the Royal Commission on the Ancient and Historical Monuments of Scotland in 2010.^[2] Since 1963, Inchmickery has been protected as a wild bird sanctuary under the Protection of Birds Act 1954, later designated a Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI, code 804) and integrated into the Forth Islands Special Protection Area for its seabird populations.^[3] Owned and managed by the Royal Society for the Protection of Birds (RSPB), the island supports breeding colonies of species such as herring gulls (favourable condition since 2001), lesser black-backed gulls (favourable since 2008), northern fulmars (favourable since 2004), European shags (unfavourable recovering since 2001), and common eiders.^[3] Roseate, Sandwich, and common terns—once key qualifiers for its designation—ceased breeding there by 1998, following a decline starting in the late 1970s due to pressures from increasing gull numbers and other factors like food availability.^[3] Management efforts have included historical gull culling (1972–1989), habitat enhancements, and nest boxes to sustain the seabird interest, with recent actions such as invasive species removal in 2023–2024 and ongoing monitoring to minimize human disturbance.^[3]^[4] The island's military ruins contribute to its ecological value by providing nesting sites, and it was scheduled as a Monument of National Importance in 1974.^[3]

Geography

Location

Inchmickery is situated at coordinates 56°00′39″N 3°16′24″W in the Firth of Forth, a major estuary on the east coast of Scotland that serves as the outlet for the River Forth and connects inland waterways to the North Sea.^[5] The island lies approximately 4 km northwest of Granton Harbour in northern Edinburgh, positioned roughly midway across the firth from the southern shoreline near Granton Harbour.^[1] It is located about 2 km northeast of Cramond Island and 2.5 km southeast of Inchcolm, placing it within a cluster of islets that characterize the central portion of the estuary.^[1]^[6] As an uninhabited and remote site designated as a Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI) for its breeding bird colonies, Inchmickery has no public landing facilities, and access is restricted to protect its ecological sensitivity; it is typically observed from shorelines, passing vessels, or organized boat tours in the Firth of Forth.^[3]^[6]

Physical features

Inchmickery is a small, low-lying rocky islet situated in the Firth of Forth, measuring approximately 100 meters in length by 200 meters in width and encompassing an area of about 1.3 hectares (3.2 acres).^[7]^[8] Its terrain consists of steep sides rising from the surrounding waters, characteristic of the exposed skerries in the estuary.^[9] Geologically, the island forms part of the Inchmickery Sill, a prominent intrusion of teschenitic dolerite belonging to the Midland Valley Carboniferous to early Permian Alkaline Basic Sill Suite, which extends north-northeastward as a line of small islands and rocks within the Firth.^[10] This sill intrudes into underlying sedimentary and volcanic sequences of the Bathgate Group, including the Kinghorn Volcanic Formation with its alkali basalt lavas and tuffs, contributing to the barren, uninhabited nature of the islet.^[10] Adjacent to Inchmickery's northeast tip lie the Cow and Calves, a cluster of protruding rocks that are geologically continuous with the sill.^[10]^[9] The island's surface was historically blanketed in moss and lichen, reflecting its previously undisturbed, natural state prior to human modifications.^[11] Today, however, it is largely overlain by extensive concrete remnants, which cover nearly the entire land area and alter its original environmental profile.^[9]^[8]

History

Early history

The name of Inchmickery derives from earlier forms such as Mickrie or Muckrie, recorded until the nineteenth century, likely originating from the Scottish Gaelic Mucraidh, meaning "pig place" or "pig field." ^[12] The prefix "Inch-" (from Gaelic innis, "island") was not applied to the island until the nineteenth century, with the earliest known mention as "Mickry" dating to 1630. ^[13] Human presence on Inchmickery prior to the twentieth century appears to have been limited to intermittent visits, with no evidence of permanent settlement or substantial structures surviving due to later developments. ^[12] The island's primary economic significance lay in the surrounding waters, which featured productive oyster beds harvested from at least the seventeenth century. In 1693, a charter granted Sir George Hamilton rights to oyster harvesting in the Cramond area, including around Inchmickery and nearby Cramond Island. ^[14] By the late nineteenth century, these beds were renowned for their value but had declined due to over-dredging. ^[15] This period of sporadic economic use transitioned in 1915 when the island was fortified for military purposes.

Military fortifications

Inchmickery was fortified during World War I as part of the middle line of defenses in the Firth of Forth, with construction beginning in 1915 to protect against naval threats. The island's defenses included four gun emplacements divided into "F" and "B" groups, two defense electric lights at the northeast and south ends, and supporting structures such as quarters for officers and men, a cook-house, engine room, and offices, as detailed in mobilization plans.^[16] Initially armed with four 12-pounder guns, these were replaced in 1916–1917 by four 4-inch Mark III guns transferred from Inchgarvie.^[2] The battery was manned starting 16 March 1915 by a detachment of 72 non-commissioned officers and men from the Leith Royal Garrison Artillery, serving to cover the anti-submarine boom stretching from Burntisland Sands to Cramond Island and defending against submarine and boat incursions.^[2] Two guns were removed in 1917, with the remaining guns removed in 1924 following demobilization.^[2] During World War II, Inchmickery's fortifications were expanded and rearmed in September 1939 by the 160th Heavy Battery of the Royal Artillery (Forth Heavy Brigade) under Major Anderson, as part of the broader Forth Defenses safeguarding the Rosyth naval base from aerial and naval attacks.^[2] Two 4-inch guns were installed in early April 1940 and tested in May, with two more added by July 1940 and two additional guns in February 1942; by 1943, twin 6-pounder quick-firing anti-shipping guns were in place, later placed on care and maintenance.^[2] The concrete structures give the island a silhouette resembling a battleship at anchor, leading to suggestions that it served as a decoy against submarines and aircraft, though this is likely apocryphal.^[1] These enhancements addressed threats from motor torpedo boats and submarines in the Firth of Forth, with the island contributing to the overall anti-invasion strategy.^[17] Key features of the fortifications included three battery observation posts, two gun emplacements with a platform featuring three holdfasts, searchlight positions, engine houses, a concrete pier completed in July 1940, a jetty, a pillbox, and Nissen huts for accommodation erected by May 1942, many of which were built by Royal Engineers and contractors John Best & Sons of Edinburgh.^[2] Dugouts and artillery positions further supported defensive operations. Following the war's end in 1945, the site was decommissioned and abandoned, leaving the concrete buildings and remnants largely intact and shaping the island's current landscape.^[2]

Ecology and conservation

Wildlife

Inchmickery supports a range of seabird species, serving as an important breeding ground within the Firth of Forth's coastal ecosystem. The common eider (Somateria mollissima) maintains good population numbers, with 26 nests recorded in 2014, many utilizing the island's disused World War-era concrete fortifications for shelter and nesting. These artificial structures have altered natural habitats but created sheltered sites that benefit eiders and other species by reducing exposure to weather and predators.^[3]^[18] Various gull species dominate the avifauna, including lesser black-backed gulls (Larus fuscus) and herring gulls (Larus argentatus), which hold favourable maintained populations and use the island for large colonies. Northern fulmars (Fulmarus glacialis) breed in significant numbers, with 220 apparently occupied sites (AOS) noted in 2014 and 124 AOS in 2023, while European shags (Phalacrocorax aristotelis) were recorded at 65 apparently occupied nests (AON) in 2014 but 0 AON in 2023, continuing recovery from prior declines. Common murres (Uria aalge), razorbills (Alca torda), and Atlantic puffins (Fratercula arctica) have been recorded in small numbers historically, but were absent in surveys of 2014 and 2023. Sandwich terns (Thalasseus sandvicensis) and common terns (Sterna hirundo) once bred here in hundreds of pairs during the mid-1970s but abandoned the colony due to intense competition for nest sites and predation by gulls, which arrive earlier in spring. Roseate terns (Sterna dougallii), a rarer species, nested until 1998, with peak counts of 100 pairs in 1976, before similar pressures led to their departure.^[3]^[18]^[9]^[19] Beyond birds, the island and surrounding waters host marine mammals, notably harbour seals (Phoca vitulina) and grey seals (Halichoerus grypus), which haul out on Inchmickery. Surveys in 2014 counted 31 harbour seals, including up to 15 pups, and varying numbers of grey seals (up to 9 individuals across late-year visits), underscoring the site's value as a protected resting and pupping area under the Marine (Scotland) Act 2010. The Firth of Forth's historical oyster beds, once extensive and supporting rich benthic communities of invertebrates and fish, have diminished dramatically since the early 1900s due to overexploitation, reducing associated marine biodiversity around the island.^[18]^[20] The island's flora is sparse, dominated by mosses and lichens on non-concreted rocky surfaces, with limited vascular plants adapted to the disturbed, exposed environment. This low-diversity vegetation reflects the ecological legacy of military development, which covers much of the terrain in concrete and influences habitat partitioning among species. Inchmickery was designated a bird sanctuary in 1963 to safeguard its seabird populations.^[3]

Protected status

Inchmickery was declared a Wild Bird Sanctuary in 1963 under the Protection of Birds Act 1954 to safeguard its breeding seabird populations.^[3] This designation evolved into an Area of Special Protection (AoSP) following the implementation of the Wildlife and Countryside Act 1981, which provided enhanced legal safeguards for bird habitats.^[3] The island is managed as a nature reserve by the Royal Society for the Protection of Birds (RSPB), in collaboration with NatureScot (formerly Scottish Natural Heritage), focusing on the conservation of its ornithological interest.^[3] Inchmickery holds Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI) status (No. 804), re-notified in 1985 and encompassing 5.36 hectares of islets within the Firth of Forth, recognizing its contribution to nationally important seabird colonies.^[21] It forms part of the Forth Islands Special Protection Area (SPA), designated under the EU Birds Directive to protect internationally significant assemblages of species such as terns and eiders.^[3]^[22] Conservation efforts emphasize minimizing human disturbance to breeding birds, with historical measures including gull culling from 1972 to 1989 to reduce predation on tern colonies and habitat management initiatives in the 1970s and 1990s to encourage tern nesting.^[3] More recent activities, such as a tern encouragement program from 2007 to 2010, were discontinued due to limited success and resource constraints, shifting focus to ongoing monitoring of gull populations and their impacts on tern breeding success; as of 2023, seabird surveys noted declines in fulmar and shag numbers, and a project for invasive tree mallow removal is planned.^[3]^[19]^[23] Potential challenges from climate change and fisheries activities are noted.^[3] Access to Inchmickery is strictly controlled to protect sensitive breeding sites, with landings prohibited during the core nesting period from May to July; permits from the RSPB are required for any visits between 1 May and 31 August, typically limited to research or management purposes.^[3] Public observation is permitted only from boats or the mainland shore, ensuring minimal disturbance to the island's wildlife.