Mario Testino
Mario Eduardo Testino Silva (born 30 October 1954) is a Peruvian fashion and portrait photographer based in London, recognized for his influential contributions to the industry over four decades.[1][2]
Born in Lima to a traditional Catholic family, Testino initially studied economics, law, and international relations before relocating to the United Kingdom in 1976 to pursue photography, where he established himself through commissions for publications such as Vogue, Vanity Fair, and GQ, as well as advertising campaigns for luxury brands including Gucci and Burberry.[1][3] His evocative style, characterized by intimacy and sensuality, gained prominence with high-profile portraits, notably those of Diana, Princess of Wales, for Vanity Fair in 1997, shortly before her death.[2][4]
Testino has received honors such as Officer of the Order of the British Empire (OBE) and Honorary Fellowship of the Royal Photographic Society (HonFRPS), and his work has been exhibited in museums worldwide, extending into cultural heritage projects and creative direction.[1] In 2018, multiple male models accused him of sexual misconduct dating back to the 1990s, including unwanted advances and exploitative behavior during shoots, leading to temporary suspensions from collaborations with Condé Nast publications; Testino denied the allegations, stating they were unfounded and that he could not confirm any claims.[5][6][7]
Early Life
Upbringing and Relocation
Mario Testino was born on October 30, 1954, in Lima, Peru, into a well-to-do Roman Catholic family of Italian descent.[8] His father, a businessman and son of Italian immigrants, and his Irish mother raised him as the eldest of six children in a household distant from the fashion and entertainment industries.[8][9] Growing up in Lima provided Testino with early exposure to Peru's cultural richness, including its artistic traditions, which later influenced his aesthetic sensibilities.[10] During his university years in Peru, Testino pursued studies in economics at Universidad del Pacífico and law, though he did not complete degrees in these fields.[9][11] He subsequently studied international affairs at the University of San Diego in the United States.[12] Amid these academic pursuits, Testino developed an early interest in photography, drawn to its potential for capturing beauty and fashion, though he lacked formal training in Peru and acquired his first camera shortly after leaving the country.[13][1] In 1976, at age 22, Testino relocated to London to study photography and immerse himself in the city's vibrant fashion scene, motivated by a desire to escape traditional paths and explore creative opportunities unavailable in Peru.[1][9] Financial constraints marked his early years there; he lived in an unconverted floor of an abandoned hospital, supported himself with odd jobs such as waiting tables and dishwashing, and assisted in photography studios to gain entry into the industry.[9] These hardships underscored his determination to transition from academic and familial expectations toward a self-directed career in visual arts.[14]Professional Career
Initial Struggles and Entry into Fashion
Testino moved from Peru to London in 1976 to pursue photography, apprenticing at the studios of John Vickers and Paul Nugent while making his initial attempts in the field.[1] Upon arrival, he supported himself by shooting models' portfolios for minimal compensation and persistently seeking opportunities to present his work to editors in the competitive fashion industry. These early efforts were marked by financial hardship and the challenges of adapting from a traditional Catholic upbringing in Lima to the vibrant, multicultural environment of 1970s London.[1] Despite repeated rejections, Testino's persistence led to freelance assignments for smaller publications throughout the late 1970s and early 1980s, gradually building his portfolio and gaining modest footholds in fashion circles.[15] His breakthrough came in 1983 when British Vogue commissioned his first published work, a shoot featuring a junior fashion editor that marked his formal entry into high-profile fashion photography.[16] [15] This opportunity, after seven years of groundwork, opened doors to additional assignments for magazines and emerging fashion clients during the decade.[16]Rise to Prominence and Key Collaborations
Testino's ascent in fashion photography accelerated in the mid-1990s through his collaboration with designer Tom Ford at Gucci, where he produced iconic advertising campaigns featuring provocative, sensual imagery that contributed to the brand's commercial revival from near-bankruptcy.[17] These efforts began with Gucci's first campaign shot by Testino in 1995 and continued through series like the Spring/Summer 1997 collection, emphasizing bold eroticism and luxury allure in partnership with stylist Carine Roitfeld.[18] [19] Throughout the 1990s and 2000s, Testino established regular editorial contributions to premier magazines including Vogue, Vanity Fair, and Harper's Bazaar, where his portraits of high-profile figures enhanced his reputation for capturing vitality and sophistication.[20] [21] A landmark achievement was his July 1997 Vanity Fair session with Princess Diana, conducted five months before her death, which portrayed her as newly empowered and unburdened, yielding images that became emblematic of her post-divorce persona.[22] [23] Testino further elevated his status with celebrity portraits such as his 1998 Vanity Fair shoot of Madonna, aligning with her Ray of Light album aesthetic and showcasing introspective glamour.[4] He also spearheaded Burberry's Fall/Winter and Spring/Summer 1998 campaigns, photographing models like Stella Tennant to infuse the heritage brand with modern, energetic visuals that boosted its contemporary appeal.[24] [25] These partnerships honed Testino's signature approach—vibrant, high-energy compositions blending sensuality and immediacy—that distinguished his work amid the era's fashion landscape.[26]Major Works, Publications, and Exhibitions
Testino's publications encompass compilations of his fashion and portrait photography, with "Portraits" (2002) issued alongside his National Portrait Gallery exhibition, featuring over 120 selected images of celebrities and public figures, many unpublished at the time.[27] "Private View" (2012), published by TASCHEN, curates personal selections from his archive, spanning studio portraits, candid shots, and fashion editorials to demonstrate stylistic breadth.[28][29] "SIR" (2015), also from TASCHEN, assembles more than 300 male portraits accumulated over three decades, tracing shifts in masculine depiction through costume, pose, and context in fashion contexts.[30][31] Key solo exhibitions include "Portraits" at the National Portrait Gallery in London (2002), his inaugural museum display comprising large-scale prints that underscored his command of visual narrative in high-profile sittings.[27] Later retrospectives feature "No Limits" at Kunstforeningen GL Strand in Copenhagen (2015), exploring boundary-pushing imagery, and "Undressed" at the Helmut Newton Foundation in Berlin (2017), focusing on nude and semi-nude fashion studies.[32] These shows, often tied to book releases, highlight Testino's role in elevating commercial photography to gallery status through scale and curation. Testino's advertising campaigns for luxury brands such as Gucci and Burberry exemplify his commercial influence, with Gucci assignments under Tom Ford in the late 1990s and early 2000s— including Spring/Summer 2003—delivering provocative visuals that aligned with the label's revival and propelled model breakthroughs like Gisele Bündchen. His sustained Burberry partnership produced seasonal imagery emphasizing heritage motifs in contemporary settings, sustaining visual consistency across print and digital formats to bolster brand recognition.[33] These efforts demonstrably advanced sales trajectories for featured collections by embedding aspirational aesthetics in global markets, as evidenced by aligned editorial coverage in outlets like Vogue and Vanity Fair.[9]Post-2018 Activities and Resilience
Following the 2018 allegations, Mario Testino maintained a lower public profile while resuming professional engagements, including gallery exhibitions that showcased his evolving body of work. In November 2019, he presented "East," a series of photographs from travels in Asia, at Hamiltons Gallery in London, marking an early post-controversy display of new material.[34] By 2023, Testino mounted multiple solo shows, such as "Let the Sun Shine In" at Holden Luntz Gallery in Palm Beach from December 16, 2023, to January 13, 2024, featuring iconic images from his career alongside selections emphasizing light and vitality.[35] That same year, "Gone Wild" opened at Hamiltons Gallery in London on November 21, 2023, running through February 3, 2024, with 17 large-format prints exploring untamed natural themes.[36] Testino adapted by prioritizing self-directed projects rooted in cultural documentation, particularly those tied to his Peruvian heritage and European contexts. His ongoing "A Beautiful World" series, developed over the past seven years, captures traditional dress, rituals, and communities across more than 30 countries, including Peruvian women in regional garments, reflecting a shift toward ethnographic portraiture amid global homogenization.[37] This work culminated in a major exhibition at Palazzo Bonaparte in Rome, opening in May 2024 and extending through August 25, 2024, with over 70 large-format photographs highlighting identity through attire and ceremony.[38] Additional 2024 displays, such as "Celebrating Silver" at Hamiltons from February 7 to March 9, underscored his continued European gallery affiliations.[39] These activities demonstrate empirical resilience, as evidenced by consistent bookings with established venues like Hamiltons and Holden Luntz, which hosted his shows amid a fashion industry prone to rapid reputational shifts.[39] Testino's output extended into 2025 with limited-edition prints from "A Beautiful World," available through platforms like HENI, signaling ongoing market interest in his archival and contemporary visions without interruption from prior narratives.[40] This trajectory aligns with demand for his distinctive aesthetic in fine art and collectible photography sectors, where gallery sales and exhibitions persist independent of mainstream media cycles.[41]Philanthropic Efforts
Support for Global Charities
Testino has provided long-term support to AIDS-related organizations, including the Elton John AIDS Foundation, amfAR (The Foundation for AIDS Research), and Aid for AIDS, with involvement dating back to the early 2000s.[1][15] In 2008, a photography shoot by Testino was auctioned by Elton John, raising $1 million for the foundation's HIV/AIDS prevention and education efforts.[42] That same year, Aid for AIDS honored Testino with its Hero Award at the My Hero Gala in New York City, recognizing his contributions to the organization's mission of providing medicine and support to people living with HIV/AIDS in developing countries.[43][44] He also participated in Life Ball events, Europe's largest HIV/AIDS charity gathering, including designing a custom MINI Cooper unveiled in 2007 to promote the cause.[45] For cancer care, Testino donated proceeds from photography auctions and publications to CLIC Sargent, the UK's leading charity for children and young people with cancer (formerly Sargent Cancer Care for Children). In 2003, he published the book Kids, with sales benefiting the organization, motivated by the loss of his younger brother to liver cancer at age 10.[15][46] By 2012, he had supported CLIC Sargent for over a decade, auctioning a 1996 portrait of Kate Moss that July, with proceeds directed to family support services and research.[47][48] Testino extended his efforts to women's rights and health initiatives, including Women to Women, which addresses HIV/AIDS among women in developing regions. In the mid-2000s, he photographed women living with AIDS worldwide for Marie Stopes International, a reproductive health charity, to raise awareness through exhibitions and events such as a 2004 book party at Kensington Palace.[49] He also collaborated with the Naked Heart Foundation, founded by Natalia Vodianova, donating photographs to fund a playground in a Moscow children's hospital specializing in cancer treatment prior to 2014.[50] These activities involved leveraging his photography for auctions, portraits, and event designs, channeling proceeds directly to operational programs like medical aid, education, and infrastructure.[15]Establishment and Impact of MATE Foundation
The Mario Testino Foundation, known as MATE (Asociación Mario Testino), was established in 2012 as a non-profit organization in Lima, Peru, specifically in the Barranco district within a restored 19th-century republican mansion.[51][52] Founded by Testino, who was born in Lima and sought to reconnect with his Peruvian heritage after building an international career, MATE aims to promote and preserve Peruvian culture, art, fashion, and heritage while fostering social development through cultural engagement.[53][54] The initiative reflects Testino's personal commitment to Peru, funded primarily through his personal resources, proceeds from commercial photography projects, and dedicated auctions of his art collection.[55][56] MATE's core programs center on exhibitions that highlight Peruvian traditions alongside Testino's own works, including the inaugural "Todo o Nada" in 2012, the "Alta Moda" series in 2013 documenting Andean festive attire, and ongoing series like "Maestros de la Fotografía" featuring international photographers to contextualize Peruvian visual culture.[57][58] Complementing these are educational workshops and community initiatives designed to cultivate local artistic talent and heritage awareness, such as programs promoting Peruvian artists and traditions to broader audiences.[59][60] The foundation houses the world's largest permanent collection of Testino's photographs, serving as a platform for emerging Peruvian creators while integrating fashion and photography to underscore cultural narratives rooted in Peru's history.[52][61] The impact of MATE lies in its role as a cultural bridge, introducing international contemporary art to Peruvian audiences for the first time in many cases and elevating local heritage through targeted preservation efforts, which align with goals of boosting tourism and artist support as outlined in its mission.[62][60] By prioritizing empirical cultural promotion over commercial gain, the foundation has sustained operations amid Testino's global profile, contributing to Peru's soft power without documented reliance on government funding.[63] This Peru-specific focus distinguishes MATE from Testino's wider philanthropic activities, emphasizing causal ties between his origins and sustained investment in national identity.[64]Recognition and Honors
Awards for Photographic Contributions
In recognition of his influential work in fashion and portrait photography, Mario Testino received the Clio Fashion & Beauty Lifetime Achievement Award in 2016 from the Clio Awards, honoring his decades-long impact on advertising and visual storytelling in the industry.[12][43] That same year, he was awarded the Business of Fashion Global Voices Award for outstanding achievement in fashion, acknowledging his role in shaping commercial imagery and cultural narratives through photography.[43] Earlier accolades include the International Center of Photography's Infinity Award for Special Presentation in 2015, which highlighted Testino's contributions to contemporary photographic practice and his ability to capture the essence of high-profile subjects.[65][43] In 2014, Spanish Vogue presented him with the Best Photographer in the World Award, citing his global dominance in editorial and advertising imagery.[43] Also in 2014, Testino was granted an honorary Officer of the Order of the British Empire by the British government specifically for services to photography, reflecting his elevation of fashion visuals to fine art status.[50][43] Testino's earlier honors encompass the Honorary Fellowship from The Royal Photographic Society in 2011, a prestigious distinction for advancing photographic excellence.[43] In 2008, he earned the American Society of Magazine Editors National Magazine Award for Best Fashion Cover, tied to his September 2007 Vanity Fair shoot, which exemplified innovative composition and celebrity portraiture.[43] Additional style-focused recognitions, such as the 2005 Rodeo Drive Walk of Style Award and the 2003 British Style and Elle Style Awards, underscored his influence on luxury branding through photographic campaigns that drove commercial success for houses like Gucci.[43]| Year | Award | Issuer |
|---|---|---|
| 2016 | Clio Fashion & Beauty Lifetime Achievement Award | Clio Awards, New York |
| 2016 | Business of Fashion Global Voices Award | The Business of Fashion, Oxfordshire |
| 2015 | ICP Infinity Award: Special Presentation | International Center of Photography, New York |
| 2014 | Best Photographer in the World Award | Spanish Vogue, Madrid |
| 2014 | Honorary OBE for services to photography | British Government, London |
| 2011 | Honorary Fellowship | The Royal Photographic Society, Bath |
| 2008 | ASME National Magazine Award (Best Fashion Cover) | American Society of Magazine Editors, New York |
| 2005 | Rodeo Drive Walk of Style Award | Rodeo Drive, Los Angeles |
| 2003 | British Style Award | British Style Awards, London |
| 2003 | Elle Style Award | Elle, London |