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Slugging

Slugging is a skincare technique that entails applying a thick layer of an occlusive ointment, typically petroleum jelly or similar petrolatum-based products like Aquaphor or Vaseline, as the final step in an evening routine to seal in moisture and fortify the skin barrier overnight. Originating from Korean beauty practices and gaining widespread popularity via social media platforms like TikTok around 2022, it mimics the effect of a slug's mucus trail by creating a glossy, impermeable film that minimizes transepidermal water loss, particularly benefiting those with dry or compromised skin. Dermatological evaluations indicate it can enhance hydration retention empirically observed in clinical settings for barrier repair, though efficacy varies by skin type and lacks large-scale randomized trials. Controversies arise from risks such as exacerbating acne or folliculitis in oily or acne-prone individuals by trapping sebum and bacteria, prompting cautions against universal application without patch testing. Proponents highlight its simplicity and cost-effectiveness using over-the-counter products, while critics note potential for milia formation or irritation if layered over incompatible actives like retinoids. Despite anecdotal endorsements, empirical support remains anecdotal-heavy, with dermatologists recommending moderation—such as targeted application to dry areas only—over full-face routines for sustained use.

Origins and Development

Historical Roots

The application of occlusive substances to enhance and barrier function has ancient precedents, with ancient Egyptians employing oils and balms to reduce wrinkles, as recorded in the around 1550 B.C. Similar practices involved animal fats and natural exudates in various cultures to seal moisture and promote healing, though systematic dermatological use emerged later. Modern slugging's foundational material, petrolatum, originated in 1859 when chemist Robert Augustus Chesebrough observed oil rig workers in applying a paraffin-like byproduct—known as rod wax—to treat cuts and burns, prompting its refinement into a purified form. Chesebrough patented and marketed it as in 1870, initially for wound protection and skin soothing, building on Native American tribe uses of natural seeps from the region's oil pits as emollients and protectants. By the late 19th and early 20th centuries, dermatologists adopted petrolatum for occlusive therapy to restore epidermal barriers in conditions like xerosis and , leveraging its impermeability to reduce and augment topical absorption under sealed conditions. Early studies confirmed its , with minimal and comedogenicity under typical use, establishing it as a staple in clinical protocols for postoperative wound care and chronic dry skin management by the mid-20th century.

Etymology

The term "slugging" in skincare refers to the application of a thick occlusive layer, such as , to seal in moisture, and derives from the shiny, slimy appearance it imparts to the skin, evoking the mucus-covered exterior of a . This highlights the glossy, dewy sheen produced, rather than any biological connection to slugs or s, despite occasional informal associations with in practices. The word first gained traction in English-language skincare discussions around 2014, appearing in a post on the subreddit r/SkincareAddiction, where users described the technique using the term to denote its occlusive, moisture-locking effect. Although the underlying practice traces to Korean beauty routines emphasizing barrier repair, the specific "slugging" emerged in Western online forums, distinguishing it from traditional descriptors like "occlusive layering." Prior to this, similar concepts lacked the vivid, descriptive term, underscoring how internet communities popularized and named the method based on visual .

Modern Popularization

The term "slugging" gained traction in Western skincare communities through online forums like Reddit's r/SkincareAddiction subreddit, where users began discussing the technique as an adaptation of Korean beauty practices for intense overnight hydration using occlusives such as petrolatum. This niche adoption predated broader awareness, with early mentions appearing in beauty media by , framing it as an emerging Korean-inspired trend for locking in moisture with products like . Slugging's explosion into mainstream popularity occurred via , where short-form videos demonstrating the method amassed hundreds of millions of views under the #slugging , surpassing 230 million by early 2022 and reaching over 438 million by 2024. Influencers and dermatologists contributed to its virality by showcasing visible results like plumper , often attributing the trend's appeal to its simplicity and efficacy during dry seasons, though some experts cautioned against overuse on acne-prone due to potential clogging. By 2022, major outlets like Consumer Reports and CNN Underscored covered slugging as a viral K-beauty hack, prompting brands such as Vaseline to engage with the trend through marketing tie-ins and product recommendations. This social media-driven surge contrasted with its longer-standing use in professional dermatology, where occlusive therapy has been recommended for barrier repair since at least the mid-20th century, but lacked the branded, accessible nomenclature that fueled public enthusiasm. The trend's persistence into 2023–2024 reflects sustained interest in affordable, results-oriented routines amid rising skincare spending, though peer-reviewed analyses highlight TikTok's role in disseminating unverified claims alongside basic occlusion science.

Core Techniques

Application Methods

Slugging is typically performed as the final step in an evening skincare routine to maximize overnight. Begin by cleansing the face with a gentle, non-stripping to remove impurities without disrupting barrier. Follow with any targeted treatments such as serums or essences, applied in order of thinnest to thickest consistency, allowing each layer to absorb for 1-2 minutes. Next, apply a humectant-rich to draw in and hold hydration, ensuring even coverage before proceeding. The occlusive layer—commonly like —is then slathered generously but thinly over the entire face or targeted dry areas, such as around the eyes, mouth, or cheeks, using clean fingertips or a to avoid . A pea-sized amount per area suffices to create a seal without excess that could lead to pilling or discomfort; the skin should appear shiny but not greasy. Allow the occlusive to set for 15-30 minutes if needed to prevent transfer to , though many apply it directly before . In the morning, gently cleanse with a mild product or micellar water to remove residue, followed by the daytime routine; avoid rubbing to prevent . Slugging is recommended 1-3 times per week rather than daily, particularly during dry seasons or for barrier repair, to minimize risks like clogged pores in oily skin types. Variations include targeted slugging on specific concerns like elbows or hands, or using alternatives like balms for those preferring non-petrolatum options, applied identically after base . Always patch-test new occlusives and consult a dermatologist for conditions like , where full-face application may exacerbate issues.

Product Choices

Slugging typically involves the application of thick, occlusive ointments to seal in moisture, with petrolatum-based products serving as the primary choice due to their proven efficacy in reducing (TEWL) by up to 99% under optimal conditions. , such as Vaseline's original formula, which is 100% petrolatum, is the gold standard among dermatologist-recommended options, supported by extensive clinical testing demonstrating superior occlusive performance compared to alternatives like silicones or plant-based butters. Other suitable products include multi-ingredient ointments like , comprising 41% petrolatum alongside and for enhanced emollience, though the latter may pose risks for some users. CeraVe Healing Ointment, which incorporates petrolatum with ceramides and , is also frequently endorsed for its barrier-supporting additives that align with slugging's hydration goals without introducing fragrances or irritants. Dermatologists emphasize selecting fragrance-free, non-comedogenic formulations to minimize risks, as additives in some occlusives can exacerbate in prone types. While less ideal, alternatives such as dimethicone-based silicones or offer partial but lack the comprehensive TEWL blockade of petrolatum, as evidenced by comparative histological studies showing petrolatum's unmatched hydration retention. Products should be applied sparingly—typically 1-2 grams per application—to avoid excess greasiness, with pure petrolatum preferred over balms containing essential oils, which may compromise the technique's simplicity and efficacy. The cautions against petrolatum on acne-prone facial , recommending patch testing and discontinuation if occurs.

Variations for Skin Types

For individuals with dry skin, slugging is most commonly recommended, as occlusive agents like effectively seal in moisture from prior skincare steps, reducing and promoting barrier recovery, particularly in low-humidity environments or during winter months. Dermatologists note that daily application can be tolerated, yielding smoother texture and diminished flakiness after consistent use. This approach aligns with established principles of occlusive therapy, which enhance in xerotic conditions without introducing irritants. Those with sensitive skin or inflammatory conditions such as eczema may benefit from lighter slugging variations using non-comedogenic, fragrance-free occlusives applied sparingly to affected areas, as these can protect compromised barriers while minimizing . Clinical observations support occlusives in sensitive skin management by stabilizing and reducing external aggressor penetration, though patch testing is advised to avoid adverse reactions. For combination skin, adaptations involve targeted application—a thin layer confined to drier zones like cheeks—rather than full-face coverage, performed 2–3 times weekly to balance hydration without overloading oilier regions such as the T-zone. This selective method leverages occlusive benefits for patchy while mitigating excess sebum accumulation. In contrast, oily or -prone skin typically contraindicates slugging, as heavy occlusives risk pore occlusion, sebum entrapment, and bacterial proliferation, potentially worsening comedonal acne or inflammatory lesions. Evidence from occlusive studies indicates increased comedogenicity in sebaceous-rich skin, with dermatological consensus favoring non-occlusive humectants instead for such types. Limited trials on acne moisturizers underscore that while some lightweight occlusives tolerate use, full slugging lacks substantiation and may elevate irritation risk.

Underlying Mechanisms

Skin Barrier Dynamics

The stratum corneum (SC), the epidermis's outermost layer approximately 10-20 μm thick, constitutes the skin's primary permeability barrier through its "bricks and mortar" architecture: keratin-filled corneocytes (bricks) embedded in an intercellular lipid matrix (mortar) comprising ceramides (≈50%), (≈25%), and free fatty acids (≈10-25%) organized into hydrophobic lamellar bilayers. This configuration restricts (TEWL) to 4-6 g/m²/h under normal conditions while impeding microbial, , and irritant ingress, with barrier efficacy dependent on lipid fluidity, corneocyte cohesion, and natural moisturizing factors like filaggrin-derived hygroscopic compounds. Barrier dynamics involve homeostatic renewal and adaptive repair. from the basal layer differentiate upward, forming lamellar bodies that fuse at the SC-viable epidermis interface to extrude , ensuring continuous matrix replenishment amid of superficial corneocytes every 2-4 weeks. Perturbations—such as low , , or tape stripping—elevate TEWL (often >20 g/m²/h), dehydrate corneocytes, and disrupt organization, prompting cytokine-mediated signaling (e.g., via IL-1, TNF-α) to accelerate epidermal , biosynthesis (, fatty acids), and lamellar body production for recovery within 3-7 days in healthy . Slugging influences these dynamics by applying thick occlusive layers, typically petrolatum, which interacts semi-permeably with the rather than forming an epicutaneous impermeable film. Petrolatum partitions into SC interstices, replacing defective or depleted domains and reducing TEWL by 98% within hours post-application, thereby hydrating corneocytes and stabilizing without delaying or endogenous extrusion. This mechanism accelerates recovery after acute disruption (e.g., acetone treatment), normalizing SC structure faster than untreated sites, as petrolatum's non-metabolized hydrocarbons occupy voids without requiring Golgi processing or lamellar body involvement. In compromised barriers (e.g., xerosis or post-procedure), slugging's sustains elevated SC water content (up to 20-30% increase), fostering conditions for processing and generation while minimizing evaporative stress that could otherwise perpetuate or delayed repair. However, excessive or prolonged may downregulate renewal rates by reducing TEWL-driven stimuli, potentially leading to thinner SC if not balanced with hydration gradients. Petrolatum outperforms some physiologic mimics in rapidity due to its inert, surface-limited action, though it lacks direct incorporation into native bilayers.

Occlusive Function

The occlusive function of slugging entails the formation of a hydrophobic physical barrier on the by agents such as petrolatum, which minimizes (TEWL) through evaporation. This mechanism operates by coating the skin's outermost layer with a semi-impermeable that disrupts the gradient driving passive water from deeper epidermal layers to the external environment. Petrolatum exhibits particularly high efficacy in this regard, reducing TEWL by 98% or greater when applied in a thick layer, outperforming other emollients like oils or silicones, which achieve only 20-30% reductions. assessments confirm this, showing petrolatum permits just 5% water permeation over 72 hours relative to controls, while rat skin models indicate 14% loss over 24 hours. Such sustains moisture trapped from prior and emollient applications, elevating hydration without relying on active penetration. Beyond TEWL suppression, the barrier induces swelling by 40-60% within 30 minutes, as measured via , due to retained accumulation that temporarily increases corneocyte and flexibility. This gradient may facilitate endogenous reorganization and barrier recovery, though primarily through physical sealing rather than biochemical signaling. Clinical comparisons, including a 2025 randomized trial on human forearms, affirm petrolatum's TEWL-lowering superiority over non-occlusive oils like extra virgin , alongside reductions in and .

Empirical Evidence

Clinical and Experimental Data

Clinical studies on slugging as a distinct skincare practice remain scarce, with most evidence derived from broader on occlusive agents like petrolatum for and barrier repair. Randomized controlled trials specifically evaluating thick overnight applications of petrolatum to the face are absent, though foundational dermatological supports the occlusive underlying slugging. For instance, petrolatum has demonstrated in reducing (TEWL) and enhancing in various models. In one histological study, occlusive formulations significantly improved by forming a semi-permeable barrier that minimizes evaporative loss without impeding barrier recovery in irritated . Experimental data on petrolatum's moisturizing effects include a randomized trial comparing it to antibiotic ointments for postoperative wound care, where petrolatum proved equally effective in promoting healing via occlusion, with superior safety by avoiding antimicrobial resistance risks. Another controlled study assessed topical petrolatum against extra virgin olive oil on skin barrier function, finding both agents reduced TEWL and improved hydration metrics after a single application, though petrolatum exhibited more consistent occlusive performance without inflammatory markers. Occlusion experiments, such as 24-hour application, have quantified increased corneum water content from baseline levels of approximately 53% to 59%, attributable to trapped humectants and reduced evaporation. In vitro and animal models further elucidate barrier dynamics, showing no delay in epidermal repair under ; contrary to early concerns, semi-occlusive petrolatum mixtures accelerated lipid reorganization and synthesis in disrupted barriers. A pilot trial on optimized emollient-occlusive blends reported instant TEWL reduction without excessive that could hinder recovery, suggesting applicability to dry or compromised . However, these findings primarily involve or sites rather than facial , where pilosebaceous units may alter outcomes; no large-scale facial-specific RCTs confirm slugging's superiority over standard moisturization. Dermatological reviews emphasize petrolatum's and low allergenicity, positioning it as a occlusive, yet caution against unverified extrapolations lacking empirical validation.

Limitations of Current Research

Much of the evidence supporting slugging derives from the established occlusive properties of petrolatum, which has been shown in dermatological studies to reduce (TEWL) by up to 99% in controlled settings, but these findings predate the trend and involve medical applications rather than cosmetic routines. Specific investigations into slugging as a nightly skincare protocol remain scarce, with no large-scale randomized controlled trials (RCTs) identified as of 2024 to assess efficacy across diverse skin types or long-term outcomes. A primary constraint is the reliance on anecdotal reports and social media-driven observations, which introduce toward positive experiences while underrepresenting adverse reactions such as or in acne-prone individuals. Dermatological reviews note that while short-term benefits are plausible based on barrier repair principles, the absence of standardized protocols—varying by occlusive thickness, underlying products, and application frequency—hampers replicability and causal attribution. Furthermore, potential confounders like concurrent use of active ingredients (e.g., retinoids) may amplify risks of or enhanced without corresponding , as occlusives can potentiate topical agents unpredictably. Long-term studies are lacking, leaving uncertainties regarding cumulative effects on microbiome disruption or dependency on heavy for hydration maintenance. Expert consensus emphasizes the need for prospective trials with objective metrics like corneometry and TEWL measurements over extended periods to validate claims beyond .

Advantages

Hydration and Repair Effects

Slugging promotes skin hydration by creating an occlusive barrier that substantially reduces (TEWL), allowing underlying moisturizers and the skin's endogenous humectants to remain trapped against the . Petrolatum, the most common slugging agent, exhibits one of the highest occlusion factors among topical emollients, with studies showing it limits water evaporation to as little as 14% over 24 hours compared to higher losses with non-occlusive formulations. This mechanism enhances overall hydration levels, particularly beneficial for dry or compromised skin, as evidenced by significant TEWL reductions in both short-term and multi-week applications of occlusive petrolatum-based products. In terms of repair effects, the prolonged moist environment facilitated by slugging aids in restoring barrier integrity by supporting reorganization and epidermal processes. Petrolatum modulates key barrier repair pathways, including expression and ceramide-related functions, which help mitigate and accelerate recovery from barrier disruption in conditions like xerosis or flares. Clinical observations and histological comparisons confirm that occlusive petrolatum outperforms certain alternatives in decreasing and promoting coherent structure, thereby enhancing long-term barrier resilience without introducing irritants. These effects stem from petrolatum's inert, non-comedogenic profile at therapeutic thicknesses, though benefits are most pronounced in individuals with baseline barrier impairment rather than intact .

Targeted Applications

Slugging is primarily targeted at individuals with or dehydrated skin, where the occlusive barrier significantly reduces and enhances moisture retention overnight. Dermatological applications emphasize its utility in repairing compromised barriers, such as those resulting from harsh weather, over-exfoliation, or environmental irritants, by creating a protective seal that allows active ingredients to penetrate more effectively while minimizing . In clinical contexts, slugging with petrolatum is indicated for maintenance therapy in , where it supports barrier integrity and reduces symptom recurrence by preventing penetration and preserving . It also proves effective for sensitive skin conditions like eczema, alleviating dryness, dullness, and uneven texture through sustained occlusion that mimics the skin's natural protective layer. Post-procedural applications include wound care following ambulatory surgeries or dermatological treatments, where petrolatum's properties and occlusive nature inhibit bacterial colonization and accelerate epithelialization without promoting comedogenesis in uncontaminated sites. This targeted use extends to managing xerosis in arid climates or seasonal dryness, though it is contraindicated for active or oily types due to potential exacerbation of follicular occlusion.

Drawbacks and Risks

Adverse Skin Reactions

Slugging, involving the application of thick occlusive layers such as , can provoke adverse skin reactions, particularly in individuals with oily, -prone, or sensitive types. The occlusive barrier may trap sebum, dead skin cells, and environmental contaminants, leading to clogged pores (comedogenesis) and subsequent acne exacerbations or breakouts. Dermatologists note that while purified petrolatum is generally non-comedogenic, the heavy application in slugging amplifies risks by preventing natural evaporation and exacerbating oil buildup, as observed in clinical observations of occlusive therapies. Milia, small keratin-filled cysts, represent another common reaction, especially when slugging near the eyes or on areas prone to . The impermeable layer hinders follicular , promoting milia formation in susceptible users, with reports linking under thin skin to increased incidence. This effect stems from the causal mechanism of impeded under prolonged , rather than inherent comedogenicity of the agent itself. Avoidance around delicate periocular regions is recommended to mitigate this. Irritation manifesting as redness, itching, or can occur, particularly in sensitive skin or with impure formulations containing allergens. Although rare with medical-grade petrolatum, the method's intensity may heighten penetration of underlying irritants like retinoids or acids, intensifying reactions. Fungal or bacterial overgrowth risks arise if applied over unclean skin, trapping microbes in a moist environment conducive to proliferation. Empirical data on these effects remain limited to case reports and dermatological consensus, lacking large-scale randomized trials specific to slugging. Users experiencing persistent symptoms should discontinue and consult a .

Interaction Concerns

Slugging, involving the application of occlusive agents like over skincare products, can enhance the penetration and effects of underlying topicals due to its barrier-forming properties, potentially leading to heightened irritation when combined with active ingredients such as retinoids, alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs), or beta-hydroxy acids (BHAs). Dermatological guidance recommends avoiding these actives on nights designated for slugging to prevent exacerbated dryness, redness, or peeling, as the occlusive layer traps and intensifies their activity on the skin barrier. In cases of unclean skin or residual makeup, slugging creates an environment that may promote bacterial or fungal proliferation, increasing risk rather than aiding repair. Proper cleansing prior to application is essential, as failure to remove debris can trap pathogens beneath the jelly, particularly in compromised skin prone to or . For individuals using prescription topicals like topical antibiotics or corticosteroids, slugging may alter their by modulating rates, though is limited; consultation with a dermatologist is advised to avoid unintended potentiation or dilution of therapeutic effects. Acne-prone or oily types face compounded risks of comedogenesis when slugging over comedogenic bases, potentially worsening occlusions despite petroleum jelly's non-comedogenic profile in isolation.

Broader Critiques

Critics of slugging contend that its rapid popularization through platforms like prioritizes appeal over evidence-based dermatological guidance, often leading users to apply occlusives indiscriminately without assessing type or underlying conditions. A 2022 peer-reviewed analysis described slugging as a " 'harmless' trend" originating on , emphasizing how its occlusive properties can trap bacteria and exacerbate or milia formation, particularly when layered over active ingredients. This dissemination model, as noted in a review of dermatologic advice, frequently overlooks risks such as unintended enhancement of potency (e.g., steroids), potentially causing adverse effects like . The trend's overhype also raises concerns about fostering and unrealistic expectations, as anecdotal testimonials dominate while rigorous, long-term clinical trials remain scarce. Dermatologists have observed that slugging, while rooted in established occlusive therapy, is misrepresented as a for all concerns, ignoring that petrolatum itself provides no and merely seals in pre-applied products—benefits achievable through simpler, less trendy moisturizing routines. Such promotion can deter adherence to proven protocols, like targeted barrier repair, in favor of faddish layering that increases product expenditure without proportional gains. Environmental critiques highlight slugging's reliance on , a distillate byproduct, which perpetuates dependence on non-renewable fossil fuels in personal care routines. Although purified petrolatum is deemed safe for skin use in a 2023 comprehensive , its production ties into broader crude oil extraction processes, drawing objections from those advocating plant-based alternatives. This aspect underscores a tension between short-term efficacy and ecological impact, with some experts urging moderation in trends that normalize resource-intensive ingredients amid growing calls for greener formulations.

Cultural and Market Impact

Social Media Influence

The skincare practice of slugging gained significant traction on social media platforms, particularly , beginning in late 2021, with searches for the term surging during that period and peaking in mid-2022. Early discussions emerged in online communities like Reddit's r/SkincareAddiction, drawing from Korean beauty routines, before exploding on through user-generated videos demonstrating the application of occlusives like . A pivotal moment occurred on January 16, 2022, when user Abbey Yung posted a demonstration video that contributed to the trend's virality, helping the #slugging hashtag amass over 148 million views by February 2022. By mid-2022, the hashtag had exceeded 235 million views on , with creators showcasing glossy, jelly-coated faces and touting benefits like enhanced hydration and glow, often using affordable products such as , which saw a 327% increase in mentions in February 2022 alone. Influencers including skincare expert Charlotte Palermino and content creators like Sarah Palmyra further amplified the trend by sharing personalized routines and before-after results, positioning slugging as an accessible "hack" for barrier repair, which resonated with audiences seeking simple, visual skincare advice. This content style—short, educational, and visually appealing—aligned with 's , driving broader adoption; surveys indicate that 67% of users reported influence from platform beauty content, with 25% making purchases directly after viewing related videos. The trend's social media momentum extended to sales impacts, as brands like , a 163-year-old product, experienced renewed interest among younger demographics via and , transforming it from a staple into a trendy essential. However, alongside endorsements, videos also highlighted potential downsides like clogged pores, fostering debates in comments and follow-up content that underscored the trend's double-edged influence on user experimentation. By , cumulative views for #slugging-related videos reached into the billions across platforms, cementing its role in democratizing skincare discourse while prompting dermatologist interventions to temper unverified claims.

Expert Perspectives

Dermatologists generally view slugging as an effective occlusive technique for enhancing hydration in individuals with or compromised barriers, primarily due to petroleum jelly's ability to reduce and promote barrier repair. For instance, experts at the note that it locks in moisture from prior skincare layers, aiding repair in parched , though they emphasize its unsuitability for acne-prone or oily types where it may exacerbate breakouts by trapping sebum and bacteria. Similarly, board-certified dermatologist Dr. Jordan C. Carqueville highlights its role in inhibiting water evaporation, supported by histological studies showing occlusives like outperform other agents in dryness treatment, but cautions against overuse in non- conditions. Experts differentiate benefits by skin type, with Ronald G. Davis, MD, from Nebraska Medicine, stating it provides substantial relief for severe dryness or eczema but offers minimal value for average skin without such issues, underscoring the need for targeted application over universal adoption. Dr. Sheilagh Maguiness, a pediatric dermatologist, endorses it as inexpensive and efficacious for moisture restoration, yielding soft, hydrated results, yet advises clean application to avoid contamination. For mature skin, Dr. Corey L. Hartman affirms safety when paired with non-comedogenic actives, as itself is non-pore-clogging, though underlying product choices dictate outcomes. Critiques from specialists focus on risks like amplified topical absorption—potentially intensifying steroids or retinoids—and from in humid environments or bacterial-prone routines, as noted in clinical reviews. The implicitly aligns by recommending avoidance of petrolatum on acne-vulnerable faces, prioritizing barrier support without comedogenic pitfalls. Overall, while affirms occlusives' lipid-replenishing effects, dermatologists stress individualized assessment over trend-driven use, with 2024 reinforcing barrier repair but lacking large-scale trials on long-term slugging efficacy.

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