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Top hat

The top hat is a tall, cylindrical hat featuring a flat crown and narrow, slightly curled brim, traditionally constructed from beaver felt or silk plush and emblematic of formal male attire since the late 18th century. Originating in Britain around 1793 with early silk versions by hatter George Dunnage and popularized by John Hetherington's 1797 public appearance, which reportedly caused a sensation in London, the style supplanted earlier tricorn and bicorn hats as a marker of sophistication and status. By the 19th century, top hats became ubiquitous for gentlemen in urban settings, business, and evening dress, often paired with frock coats or tailcoats, though their production involved hazardous mercury processing of fur felts, contributing to the occupational affliction known as "mad as a hatter." Peaking in the Victorian era as a near-universal male accessory, their use declined post-World War I with shifting fashions toward softer hats like fedoras, yet they persist in ceremonial contexts such as weddings, horse racing at Royal Ascot, and white-tie events. Notable wearers include Abraham Lincoln, whose distinctive stovepipe variant symbolized American statesmanship, and Winston Churchill, evoking imperial resolve.

Terminology

Etymology and Variations in Naming

The term "" originated in English in the mid-19th century, referring to the hat's distinctive tall, cylindrical crown topped by a flat brim. It is a shortening of "high-top hat," emphasizing the height of the crown relative to earlier hat styles like the or bicorn. The earliest recorded use of "" dates to 1864, though the style itself emerged in the late 18th century. Prior to widespread adoption of "top hat," the style was known by various names reflecting its shape, material, or cultural associations. In the early 19th century, it was commonly called a "beaver hat" due to its construction from felted beaver fur, prized for durability and sheen. American usage often favored "stovepipe hat," evoking the hat's resemblance to a chimney pipe, a term popularized by figures like Abraham Lincoln in the 1860s. Other colloquial English names included "chimney-pot hat," "cylinder hat," and "tile," the latter alluding to the crown's flat, glossy top resembling ceramic. In , equivalents emphasized the cylindrical form, such as the " claque" for collapsible variants or simply "cylindre," while in German-speaking regions it was termed "Zylinder." These variations persisted into the , with " hat" or "dress hat" denoting the later silk-plush versions used in formal attire, distinguishing them from fur predecessors. Regional and class-based naming reflected material shifts, as fur declined due to overhunting by the 1830s, leading to alternatives.

Historical Development

Origins in the Late 18th and Early 19th Centuries

The top hat developed in the late 18th century as a taller, more cylindrical successor to earlier European men's hats, including the tricorne and bicorne styles that had dominated since the 17th and 18th centuries. These predecessors featured curved brims and lower crowns suited to military and formal attire, but shifting fashion toward streamlined Regency aesthetics favored vertical height and simplicity, reflecting broader trends in men's clothing that emphasized clean lines over ornamentation. Early top hats retained beaver fur felt as the primary material, prized for its durability and glossy finish after processing through matting, boiling, and buffing. The earliest verifiable silk top hat dates to approximately 1793, produced by London hatter George Dunnage of Middlesex, marking a shift from fur to silk plush for a smoother, more reflective surface. A widely circulated but likely apocryphal tale attributes the hat's public debut to haberdasher John Hetherington, who on January 15, 1797, reportedly wore a tall, beaver-felt "stovepipe" model through London's streets, inciting panic—women fainted, children screamed, and authorities fined him £50 for breach of the peace. This narrative, first detailed in late 19th-century periodicals, exaggerates the hat's novelty for dramatic effect and does not align with evidence of pre-existing prototypes; Dunnage's work predates it, and similar tall hats appeared in French fashion plates by the 1790s. By the early 19th century, particularly during Britain's Regency period (circa 1811–1820), the top hat transitioned from curiosity to staple under the influence of dandy George "Beau" Brummell, whose advocacy for understated elegance elevated it as essential daytime among the and emerging . Brummell's popularized variations with slightly conical crowns and curled brims, often in or felt, paired with tailcoats and in rejection of powdered wigs and . spread across and , with showing top hats in Milanese uprisings by 1848, underscoring their in signaling and amid industrialization.

Peak Adoption and Standardization in the 19th Century

During the 19th century, the top hat achieved widespread adoption among men of the upper and middle classes in Europe and North America, evolving from an emerging style in the late 18th century to a near-ubiquitous symbol of respectability and professional status. By the 1840s, it had become the definitive hat for the bourgeois man, signifying wealth and social standing in urban settings. This surge in popularity coincided with the Industrial Revolution, where the hat's tall, structured form projected an image of industriousness and elevation above manual laborers, who typically wore softer caps. Standardization of the top hat's design occurred progressively through the Victorian era, with the silk plush version—introduced around 1804—gaining dominance by the mid-century due to its glossy finish and durability, supplanting costlier beaver felt amid depleting wildlife populations. Crown heights stabilized at approximately 4 to 6 inches, with flat tops and curled brims, as manufacturers like those in Pennsylvania refined production techniques to meet mass demand. The hat paired routinely with frock coats and morning dress for business and formal occasions, embedding it in daily attire for professionals, politicians, and gentlemen from roughly 1806 onward. Notable figures such as engineer Isambard Kingdom Brunel and U.S. President Abraham Lincoln exemplified this, with Lincoln's distinctive stovepipe variant becoming iconic during the American Civil War era around 1862. Peak adoption materialized in the 1860s through 1880s, when the top hat transcended elite circles to represent middle-class aspiration amid urbanization and economic expansion, worn even by revolutionaries in events like the 1848 Milan uprising against Austrian rule. British etiquette guides and fashion plates reinforced its role as the "most popular style of headwear for men," essential for signaling propriety in public life. Production scaled accordingly, with London and Philadelphia hubs exporting standardized models globally, though critiques emerged by the late century over its impracticality in wet weather and head constriction. This era marked the zenith before softer hats like bowlers encroached on everyday use.

Decline and Adaptation in the 20th Century

In the early 20th century, the top hat's role in everyday and business attire diminished as men's fashion shifted toward more casual and practical styles, including softer hats like fedoras and bowlers that better suited the lounge suit replacing the frock coat. The widespread adoption of automobiles further accelerated this decline, as the low roofs and open-air designs of early cars made tall, rigid top hats prone to damage and inconvenient for daily transport. By the 1920s, top hats were increasingly relegated to specific formal contexts rather than general urban wear. The and exacerbated the trend, with post-1945 modernization and a broader casualization of dress codes rendering top hats obsolete for most men outside elite or ceremonial settings. Changing grooming habits, including the of hair styling products that reduced the "hat hair" , also contributed to the abandonment of headwear altogether among younger generations. By the , the countercultural rejection of traditional formality had nearly eliminated top hats from public life, except in preserved niches. Despite the decline, top hats adapted as enduring symbols of high formality, retained in dress codes such as and for events like weddings, state funerals, and equestrian gatherings including Royal . Figures like continued wearing them into the 1910s for official portraits, underscoring their persistence among political and aristocratic elites. Manufacturers like Knox Hats promoted them through advertising as late as 1915, targeting remaining formal markets. This adaptation ensured the top hat's survival in specialized ceremonial roles, even as broader fashion trends favored simplicity and comfort.

Persistence and Niche Uses in the 21st Century

Despite its near-total eclipse from daily and broad formal attire by the early 21st century, the top hat endures in select ceremonial and institutional roles, preserving its association with formality and tradition. Primary among these is its mandated use at elite social events, where it complements prescribed dress codes emphasizing historical continuity. At Royal Ascot, the premier British horse racing meeting, men in the Royal Enclosure must wear a black or grey top hat with morning dress, a stipulation upheld in official guidelines as of 2025. This requirement, relaxed slightly in other enclosures since 2021, reinforces the event's status as a bastion of aristocratic sartorial norms, drawing thousands annually to observe the practice. In Freemasonry, top hats remain a ceremonial accoutrement for presiding officers, such as the Worshipful Master, during lodge proceedings in the United States and affiliated bodies. Styles vary, including black or white variants, but the hat symbolizes authority and is worn while the lodge is in session, a custom persisting without formal mandate but rooted in longstanding ritual. Formal weddings represent another niche, where grooms and ushers occasionally adopt silk or fur top hats to convey refined elegance, particularly in traditional or vintage-themed ceremonies. This usage, though not ubiquitous, aligns with the hat's historical ties to matrimonial formality, as noted in contemporary haberdashery advice favoring glossy silk for daytime events. The Punxsutawney Groundhog Club's annual Groundhog Day observance on February 2 perpetuates the top hat through its Inner Circle, a group of organizers clad in tuxedos and top hats who handle the groundhog Punxsutawney Phil's weather prediction ritual. This folk tradition, amplified by media since the 1993 film Groundhog Day, continues to feature the hats as markers of the event's whimsical yet enduring pageantry, with festivities drawing visitors each winter.

Design and Materials

Core Structural Features

The top hat is defined by its rigid, tall cylindrical crown with straight vertical sides and a flat, oval top, distinguishing it from creased or tapered crowns in other hat styles. The crown typically measures 14 to 16 cm in height for standard formal wear, though historical examples from the mid-19th century could reach 20 cm. Attached at the base of the crown is a narrow, stiff brim, usually 5 to 7 cm wide, with edges often slightly curled upward for aesthetic and structural integrity. This brim projects horizontally, providing minimal shade while emphasizing the hat's vertical silhouette. The junction between crown and brim forms a sharp, perpendicular angle, reinforced during construction to prevent sagging. Rigidity is achieved through the hat's foundational material—traditionally fur-felt or silk plush—formed over wooden blocks and stiffened with shellac or modern chemical agents applied to the felt body. This process ensures the crown maintains its precise cylindrical form and the brim its flat profile under wear. A leather sweatband lines the interior base of the crown for fit and moisture absorption, while an optional silk liner covers the inner crown surface. A grosgrain or silk hatband encircles the crown's lower edge, concealing the seam and adding decoration without altering core structure.

Construction Methods and Materials

Top hats traditionally consist of a stiff, tall cylindrical crown and a flat, upturned brim, formed from a felt body that provides structural rigidity. Historically, the body was crafted from beaver fur felt, derived from pelts processed through felting techniques involving matting, pummeling, and boiling to create a durable, waterproof material prized for its natural luster and water resistance. This felt was sourced primarily from North American beaver pelts until the 1830s, when overhunting led to scarcity and higher costs, prompting a shift away from beaver as the primary material. By the mid-19th century, construction increasingly involved covering or stiffened fabric shell with —applied over for added stiffness and gloss. The process began with blocking the felt hood (a pre-formed conical piece) on wooden molds to shape the crown and brim, followed by trimming, stiffening, and meticulously easing the covering to align seams without wrinkles, often requiring hand-sewing for precision. was sewn inside for fit, and bound the brim edge. production, concentrated in French mills, ceased in 1968 with the closure of the last factory, rendering authentic toppers reliant on vintage stock today. In contemporary manufacturing, top hats are predominantly made from fur felt derived from rabbit or hare fur, or specialized long-fiber wool felts like Melusine for a silk-like sheen, offering greater durability than historical silk versions. The hood is softened by steaming or misting with water to reactivate stiffeners, then blocked using heat, pressure, and wooden or aluminum forms—often by hand for bespoke pieces—to form the crown (typically 4-6 inches tall) and brim (2-3 inches wide). Post-blocking, the hat cools to set the shape, the brim is trimmed, and components like the satin or leather lining, leather sweatband, and decorative ribbon are hand-attached, with final brushing to enhance gloss. High-end examples may incorporate beaver felt for superior quality, though ethical and supply constraints limit its use.

Collapsible Opera Hats

Collapsible opera hats, also known as gibus hats or chapeau claque, represent a specialized variant of the top hat engineered for compactness. These hats feature a spring-loaded mechanism that allows the crown to fold flat against the brim, enabling easy storage in tight spaces like theater seats or cloakrooms. The design addressed the impracticality of rigid top hats in crowded evening venues, where gentlemen required formal headwear without the bulk. The invention is attributed to French hatmaker Antoine Gibus, who developed the prototype around 1812 and secured a patent for the "chapeau mécanique" in Paris on November 30, 1837. This mechanism utilized hinged metal ribs or hoops within the crown, connected to springs that permitted manual compression and expansion with a distinctive snapping action—hence the French term "chapeau claque," evoking the clacking sound upon opening or closing. Gibus's innovation quickly gained traction in Europe, with production centering in Paris and London, where early prototypes emerged before the formal patent. Typically constructed from black or over a lightweight frame, opera hats maintained the cylindrical shape and flat brim of standard top hats when extended, measuring approximately 4-5 inches in height. The interior often included sweatbands and linings for comfort, while the collapsible feature relied on concealed springs to ensure rapid deployment—essential for quick donning during intermissions or . By the mid-19th century, these hats became de rigueur for formal attendance, as evidenced by surviving examples from manufacturers like Knox of , which produced versions into the late 1800s. Their popularity peaked during the , aligning with the rigid dress codes of urban nightlife, but waned in the 20th century alongside the general decline of top hats in everyday . Nonetheless, collapsible opera hats persisted in niche applications, including performances and historical reenactments, with modern reproductions employing similar spring systems for durability. Antique specimens, such as those held by the , demonstrate the hat's evolution from utilitarian accessory to collectible artifact.

Other Formal Hat Derivatives

The homburg hat emerged in the late 19th century as a structured felt hat featuring a curled brim, a flat crown with a central crease, and a stiff construction, serving as a transitional formal option between the rigid top hat and softer fedoras. Popularized by Edward VII after acquiring one during a visit to Bad Homburg in 1897, it offered a slightly less ceremonial profile suitable for daytime business or diplomatic attire while retaining associations with upper-class formality. By the mid-20th century, the homburg had gained prominence in formal daywear, exemplified by its adoption by figures like Dwight D. Eisenhower at his 1953 inauguration, where it replaced the traditional top hat. The bowler hat, also known as the derby in the United States, developed concurrently in 1849 when hatters Thomas and William Bowler crafted a low-crowned, rounded, hard-felt design initially for gamekeepers needing head protection during hunts, diverging from the top hat's tall cylinder through its compact, resilient form. Though originating as a practical alternative for rural and working-class use, it transitioned into urban formal wear by the late 19th century, particularly in British city professions like banking and clerking, where its durability suited protective needs without the top hat's ostentation. In formal contexts, such as with lounge suits or frock coats, the bowler provided a standardized, less elite symbol of respectability, remaining viable into the early 20th century before broader casualization of menswear. These derivatives reflected adaptations to practicality and , with the homburg emphasizing refined creases for a polished and the bowler prioritizing rounded reinforcement against impacts, both influencing subsequent formal in professional spheres.

Cultural and Social Significance

Symbolism of Status and

The top emerged as a key emblem of and elite in the , particularly within Victorian and the , where it distinguished gentlemen from lower classes through its association with formal attire like coats and tailcoats. Crafted from costly materials such as plush or felt, the hat's production demanded skilled labor and expense, rendering it accessible primarily to those of means; a glossy, impeccably maintained top hat thus signaled prosperity and upward mobility, while a worn example denoted decline. In spheres of power, including politics and business, the top hat reinforced authority; Members of who deviated from this norm, such as by wearing flat caps, faced ridicule, as seen in 1898 press accounts critiquing non-conformity in the . It embodied hegemonic tied to rational discipline and restraint, contrasting sharply with the casual headwear of laborers and symbolizing elite men's public dominance. Prominent figures like popularized the stovepipe variant—a taller top hat form—during the era, linking it enduringly to leadership and resolve in national crises. This symbolism persisted into the early among industrialists and statesmen, though its exclusivity waned with broader of ; nonetheless, the top hat retained connotations of patriarchal command, as evidenced by its role in defining respectable manhood against egalitarian shifts.

Roles in Ceremonies, Organizations, and Events

In equestrian events such as Royal Ascot, top hats form an integral part of the prescribed morning dress code for male attendees in the Royal Enclosure, where grey or black fur felt variants are worn with tailcoats to maintain formal tradition dating back to the event's establishment in 1711 by Queen Anne. This attire enforces a strict dress protocol enforced by stewards, with top hats required alongside striped trousers and waistcoats to signify respect for the monarchy and racing heritage. Top hats appear in select wedding ceremonies under white tie or morning dress protocols, particularly for grooms, fathers of the bride, or ushers in British-influenced formal settings, where silk or felt models complement tailcoats for outdoor or morning services. Their use has declined since the mid-20th century but persists in high-society or themed nuptials emphasizing historical elegance, as evidenced by custom orders from specialist hatters. Within , the Worshipful Master of a dons a during meetings and processions to symbolize authoritative leadership, evoking King Solomon's crown as a marker of rank and command over proceedings. This practice traces to 18th-century influences, where the hat's height and form denote hierarchy, with only the presiding officer entitled to wear it indoors, reinforcing structure. Variations include wool felt models sized from medium to extra-large for lodge-specific . In academic contexts, such as at or Universities, top hats accompany tailcoats in student processions for or ceremonial events, upholding subfusc traditions that blend 19th-century formality with institutional identity. For funerals, top hats have historically suited pallbearers or in Anglican or state services, paired with coats to convey , though their prevalence waned post-World War II amid simplified mourning attire. Contemporary instances remain rare, confined to aristocratic or military honors funerals adhering to pre-1940s protocols.

Representations in Literature, Media, and Arts

In literature, the top hat often served as a marker of Victorian-era gentility and eccentricity, notably in Lewis Carroll's Alice's Adventures in Wonderland (1865), where the Mad Hatter's oversized, tag-adorned top hat underscores themes of absurdity and social inversion amid formal attire. In Charles Dickens's works, such as Pickwick Papers (1836–1837), characters like Mr. Pickwick wear top hats to signify middle-class respectability, reflecting the garment's role in 19th-century British social satire. In film and television, top hats evoke elegance and archetype, as in the 1935 RKO musical Top Hat, where Fred Astaire's character dons one in choreography sequences like "No Strings (I'm Fancy Free)," cementing its association with sophisticated romance and tapping routines that influenced subsequent depictions. The accessory recurs in Willy Wonka & the Chocolate Factory (1971), with Gene Wilder's portrayal featuring a velvet top hat as a prop for whimsy and authority in the titular character's fantastical world. In The Greatest Showman (2017), P.T. Barnum's top hat symbolizes entrepreneurial ambition and showmanship, passed as a heirloom to represent authenticity amid spectacle. Visual arts leveraged the top hat for portraits of modernity and class, with Vincent van Gogh's Old Man with a Top Hat (c. 1882) depicting a Hague almshouse resident in modest attire, highlighting everyday utility over ostentation for working-class subjects. Félix Vallotton's The Top Hat (Interior or The Visit) (1897) uses the hat in a domestic scene to convey restrained realism and social interaction in post-Impressionist style. Politically, cartoonists employed it as shorthand for capitalism and elitism, as in 19th-century satires critiquing industrialists, where the tall silhouette denoted detached authority. Across media, the top hat persists as a capitalist emblem, exemplified by Planters' Mr. Peanut mascot (debuted 1916), whose monocle-top-hat ensemble caricatures refined enterprise in advertising. Magicians' routines, from 19th-century stage acts onward, ritualize it for illusions like rabbit production, blending formality with deception in performing arts.

Criticisms, Practical Limitations, and Health Concerns

Impracticality and Social Critiques

The top hat's pronounced height and rigid cylindrical form posed significant practical challenges for daily use, rendering it ill-suited to active pursuits or inclement weather. Its elevated crown, often exceeding 6 inches (15 cm), made it vulnerable to dislodgement in windy conditions or crowded thoroughfares, as the lack of a secure grip or tie-down mechanism allowed easy displacement during movement. Silk variants, predominant from the mid-19th century onward, were particularly susceptible to , requiring owners to carry protective covers or avoid entirely, while felt versions demanded meticulous brushing to maintain shape and luster. Storage and portability further compounded these issues; unlike softer hats such as bowlers, top hats resisted compression, necessitating dedicated hat boxes or shelves that occupied considerable space in homes or vehicles, impractical for the average urban dweller by the early . Production intricacies, including labor-intensive steaming, blocking, and finishing processes—historically involving fur felting until silk's dominance around 1850—elevated costs, limiting accessibility and reinforcing its ceremonial rather than utilitarian role. These factors contributed to its phased obsolescence in favor of lower-profile alternatives like the homburg or , which better accommodated evolving lifestyles, including the advent of enclosed automobiles with restricted headroom post-1910s. Socially, the top hat drew critiques as an ostentatious marker of class stratification, emblematic of bourgeois excess amid industrial-era inequities. By the 1840s, its ubiquity among the affluent—spurred by endorsements from figures like Prince Albert—prompted satirical depictions in periodicals portraying wearers as vain dandies detached from laboring realities, such as in Punch magazine caricatures lampooning top-hatted gentlemen evading social responsibilities. Reformist voices, including those in early labor publications, condemned it as a wasteful luxury symbolizing inherited privilege, particularly as beaver-derived models consumed vast fur resources—up to 20-30 pelts per hat—while workers faced subsistence wages. Post-World War I egalitarian shifts amplified these reproaches, with the hat's association with prewar aristocracy evoking resentment in a democratizing society wary of visible opulence; fashion historians note its deliberate rejection in interwar casual attire as a rebuke to "old money" aesthetics amid economic upheaval. Such sentiments, echoed in cultural analyses, underscore how the top hat's formality clashed with rising meritocratic ideals, hastening its confinement to niche rituals. The production of traditional top hats, particularly those made from fur felt in the 19th century, involved significant occupational health risks due to the use of mercury compounds in the felting process. Hatters applied mercurous nitrate—a form of mercury—to or fur pelts to separate the hairs and facilitate matting into felt, a step essential for creating the durable, glossy material prized for top hats. This chemical treatment, introduced in the and widespread by the 1800s, generated toxic mercury vapors during the "carroting" stage, where pelts were brushed, steamed, and dried in poorly ventilated workshops. Chronic exposure led to , a characterized by tremors, irritability, memory loss, slurred speech, and hallucinations, which contributed to the "." Symptoms often mimicked or , delaying recognition of the cause until medical investigations in the mid-19th century linked them to mercury and . Beaver fur, sourced from North American pelts and dominant in top hat production until the 1850s, amplified these dangers due to its density requiring intensive processing, with hatters working in confined spaces exacerbating fume accumulation. Mortality rates among hatmakers were elevated; for instance, British records from the era documented widespread debility, with some workers experiencing tooth loss and kidney damage from prolonged contact. Even finished hats retained residual mercury, posing secondary risks to wearers through skin contact or degradation, though primarily affecting producers. Regulatory responses were slow; U.S. and European bans on mercury in hatmaking emerged only in the early 20th century, after alternatives like synthetic fibers reduced reliance on fur felting. In modern top hat manufacturing, which shifted to silk plush or synthetic materials post-1940s, mercury hazards have been eliminated, but vestigial risks persist in niche fur-based production, including exposure to dyes, adhesives, and solvents during assembly. Bleaching and dyeing processes for remaining fur variants can involve chromates or formaldehyde, potentially causing dermatitis or respiratory irritation without proper ventilation, though industry standards now mandate protective equipment to mitigate these. Overall, contemporary hazards are far less severe than historical ones, with no documented outbreaks akin to mercury erethism since the decline of traditional methods.

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