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Babe Paley

Barbara Cushing Paley (July 5, 1915 – July 6, 1978), known throughout her life as Babe Paley, was an American and celebrated for her impeccable style and central role in mid-20th-century high society. Born in , as the youngest of three daughters to renowned neurosurgeon Dr. Harvey Cushing and his wife Katharine Stone Crowell, Paley grew up in a prominent family alongside sisters Mary (Minnie) and Betsey, who also married into influential circles. She attended the in , made her society debut in 1934, and briefly worked as a at Vogue magazine starting in 1938, where her keen eye for elegance began to define her public image. In 1940, Paley married , an heir to the fortune, with whom she had two children: Stanley Grafton Mortimer III (born 1940) and Amanda Jay Mortimer (born 1944, later ). The couple divorced in 1946 amid reports of an unhappy marriage, after which Paley wed , the powerful chairman of , in a high-profile ceremony in 1947. Their union produced two more children—William Cushing "Bill" Paley Jr. (born 1948) and Katherine "Kate" Paley (born 1950)—and blended their families, as William Paley brought two children from his previous marriage. As Mrs. William S. Paley, she became a fixture in elite social circles, hosting lavish events at their homes in , , and , and cultivating close friendships with figures like writer , who dubbed her one of his "Swans"—a group of glamorous, influential women. Her friendship with Capote soured in the 1970s after he published excerpts from his unfinished novel , which thinly veiled scandalous portrayals of her and other Swans, leading to her lifelong ban on him. Paley's influence extended profoundly to fashion, earning her a place in the International Best Dressed List Hall of Fame in 1958 for her sophisticated, understated chic that favored designers like , , and . Despite her public poise, her was marked by challenges, including her husband's well-documented infidelities and her own struggles; a severe car accident in 1934 left her with facial injuries that she meticulously concealed with makeup and scarves. Diagnosed with in 1974—a disease exacerbated by her longtime smoking habit—Paley endured aggressive treatments but ultimately succumbed to the illness on July 6, 1978, the day after her 63rd birthday, in her apartment. Her funeral was attended by few family members, reflecting strained relationships in her final years, yet her legacy as a paragon of American elegance endures.

Early Life

Family and Childhood

Barbara Cushing was born on July 5, 1915, in , the youngest of three daughters to Dr. Harvey Williams Cushing, a pioneering neurosurgeon recognized for his advancements in brain surgery and , and Katharine Stone Crowell Cushing, a from a prominent family, known as Kate. Her older sisters were Mary Benedict "Minnie" Cushing, born in 1906, and Betsey Cushing, born in 1908; the family also included two sons, William Harvey Cushing Jr., born in 1903, and Henry Kirke Cushing, born in 1910. The Cushing household was close-knit despite the demands of Dr. Cushing's career, which frequently required his presence at institutions like and later Yale, leading to extended absences from family life while Kate managed the home and upbringing of the children. The family resided in a comfortable home at 305 Walnut Street in Brookline, a affluent Boston suburb, from 1912 until relocating to , in 1933, when Dr. Cushing joined Yale's faculty. Summers were spent at the family's seaside residence in Little Boar's Head, , providing seasonal escapes that fostered sibling bonds among the Cushing children. Babe's childhood was marked by privilege, shaped by her father's international acclaim—he received the in 1926 for his work on —and her mother's connections to elite social circles, offering early glimpses into through family gatherings and travels. As the baby of the family, she earned the affectionate nickname "Babe" from her siblings, a moniker that endured throughout her life and reflected the warmth of their early dynamics.

Education and Debut

Barbara Cushing, known as Babe, attended the Westover School, a prestigious boarding school for girls in Middlebury, Connecticut, during her adolescence. She later completed her secondary education at the in , graduating in 1934 amid the economic hardships of the . These institutions, renowned for cultivating poise and social graces among the elite, shaped her transition from childhood to young adulthood in upper-class circles. In October 1934, at the age of 19, made her society debut in , an event attended by prominent figures including the sons of President , underscoring her family's deep ties to influential American society. This debut, held during the height of the , highlighted the stark contrasts between the opulence of and the nation's widespread financial struggles. Following her introduction, she had a subsequent debut in , further establishing her presence in elite social networks through familial connections to prominent medical and business figures. Soon after her debuts, Babe began an early modeling career that showcased her emerging beauty and poise, traits that would define her public image. She appeared in photographs for Vogue, including a notable 1937 feature shot by Cecil Beaton in an accessories story titled "Personal Effects of the Season," which positioned her as a budding icon of elegance before she entered professional fashion editing. In 1937, shortly after this appearance, Paley was involved in a serious car accident that resulted in facial injuries, which she later concealed with makeup and accessories. Voted a standout debutante of her year by peers, she displayed an initial fascination with fashion, blending refined sophistication with the era's austere backdrop.

Professional Career

Fashion Editing at Vogue

Barbara Cushing, known as Babe Paley, joined as a in upon relocating to , marking the start of her professional tenure in magazine publishing. Under Edna Woolman Chase, who had helmed the publication since , Paley contributed to the magazine's editorial content during a pivotal era for American . Her background as a and brief early modeling experience provided an insider perspective from , shaping her approach to selecting and presenting trends. In her role, Paley curated photo shoots and authored features, focusing on promoting American designers amid II-era fabric shortages and restricted European imports. These efforts emphasized accessible elegance, adapting luxury aesthetics to practical realities for a wartime readership. She collaborated with prominent photographers, including Horst P. Horst and John Rawlings, whose work illustrated her editorials and captured the evolving silhouette of attire. Paley's achievements included influential coverage of post-World War II transitions, highlighting the resurgence of couture after years of . In 1944, she penned a for detailing her style philosophy, where she described tradition as the core of enduring sophistication. Paley departed from in 1947 following her marriage to .

Influence on Fashion and Style

Babe Paley epitomized a "less is more" aesthetic in mid-20th-century , characterized by understated elegance and impeccable tailoring that emphasized simplicity and quality over ostentation. Her signature featured sleek, pulled-back chignons that highlighted her long neck, paired with tailored gowns from , known for their precise fit and minimalist lines, and dramatic coats that offered sculptural volume with practical functionality. She accessorized sparingly but impactfully, often with a long for a touch of , a single pearl earring for subtle sophistication, and inventive touches like tying a around her handbag, which became an enduring trend blending European refinement with American accessibility. Paley's influence extended through her public appearances and media features from the 1940s to the 1960s, where she helped define "American " as a fusion of high couture and everyday wearability. Iconic moments included her Vogue spreads by photographer John Rawlings, showcasing her in eveningwear at social events akin to early gatherings, and her 1950s Harper's Bazaar profiles that highlighted sable coats mixed with affordable . These images inspired countless American women to adopt her approach, promoting adaptations of European trends—such as Dior's structured silhouettes and Givenchy's clean lines—tailored for post-war practicality and broader accessibility beyond elite couture circles. Her close relationships with key designers amplified her role as a tastemaker; she was a favored client of Cristóbal Balenciaga, who crafted coats and gowns to suit her slender frame, and maintained strong ties to Christian Dior and Hubert de Givenchy, often purchasing entire collections and serving as an informal muse who encouraged their shift toward versatile, American-friendly pieces. Paley's advocacy for mixing luxury items like Fulco di Verdura jewels with inexpensive accessories democratized high fashion, influencing mid-century trends toward effortless sophistication. In recent 2020s retrospectives, including fashion analyses tied to the FX series Feud: Capote vs. The Swans, she has been credited with foreshadowing the minimalist revival and "quiet luxury" movement, where her pared-down elegance resonates in contemporary ready-to-wear from brands like The Row and Bottega Veneta.

Personal Life

First Marriage and Children

Barbara Cushing married Stanley Grafton Mortimer Jr., a Harvard-educated executive and heir to an old family fortune, on September 21, 1940, at St. Luke's in . The wedding united two prominent social lineages, with the Mortimers embodying longstanding wealth dating back to the city's elite. The couple had two children: Stanley Grafton Mortimer III, born on October 1, 1942, and Amanda Jay Mortimer (later Burden), born on January 18, 1944. Stanley III pursued a career in , while Amanda became a noted , serving as chair of the Planning Commission from 2002 to 2013, a trustee of the , and as of 2025, serves as a Principal at Bloomberg Associates. During their marriage, the Mortimers resided primarily in a triplex apartment on Manhattan's East Side and maintained a summer home in Southampton, , where they hosted gatherings within New York's . Strains emerged as Mortimer served in the U.S. Navy during , rising to in the Pacific theater, which distanced him from family life and exacerbated tensions with Cushing's burgeoning career as a at Vogue, where she had worked since 1938 and continued part-time after the wedding. The marriage ended in on May 29, 1946, with the proceedings citing incompatibility; the split was amicable, allowing Cushing a settlement from a family trust fund that supported her transition to independence as a .

Marriage to

Barbara Cushing Mortimer married , the founder and chairman of , on July 28, 1947, at Christ Church in , becoming his second wife following his from Dorothy Hart Hearst. The union blended Babe's high-society elegance with Paley's media empire, shortly after her own from . The couple initially lived at Kiluna Farm, an 85-acre estate in Manhasset, , which Paley had acquired in 1938, before transitioning to luxurious apartments, including one at the St. Regis Hotel decorated by Billy Baldwin. They also owned a villa at the Round Hill resort in , , where they entertained guests in a tropical setting. Babe's hosting prowess was central to their lifestyle; she organized lavish dinners and parties that drew CBS executives, advertisers, and cultural figures, subtly enhancing Paley's influence in the industry through her social network. The Paleys had two children: son William Cushing "Bill" Paley (born March 30, 1948) and daughter Kate Cushing Paley, born in 1950. Their marriage faced strains from Paley's well-documented infidelities, including a notable with , which Babe endured to preserve their status and family stability in elite circles. During this era, Babe earned the nickname "Queen of the World" among New York's for her poised command of and influence.

Friendships and Social Circle

Babe Paley was at the center of a tight-knit group of high-society women known as the "Swans," a term coined by to describe his closest female confidantes in mid-20th-century . This elite circle included socialites such as Nancy "Slim" Keith, , , , and , among others, who gathered regularly for intimate lunches at restaurants like La Côte Basque or in private homes to share gossip and personal secrets. These weekly or frequent meetings fostered a bond of loyalty and discretion within the group, positioning Paley as a pivotal figure in and 1960s Manhattan society. Paley's most profound friendship was with writer , whom she met in the early 1950s through her husband, , the chairman. Capote regarded her as his "favorite swan" and closest ally, often confiding in her and drawing inspiration from her elegance and poise; the two shared a deep emotional intimacy, with Paley trusting him with sensitive details of her life. Their relationship highlighted Paley's role in bridging literary and social worlds, as she hosted Capote at her homes and introduced him to influential figures like Washington Post publisher . A defining event in Paley's social orbit was Capote's legendary on November 28, 1966, at the in , which she attended as a key guest and helped shape through her connections. The masked gala, attended by over 500 luminaries including and , solidified the Swans' prominence and Paley's status within it, with her presence underscoring the group's glamour and exclusivity. Paley also maintained ties to other prominent women, such as Jacqueline Kennedy, through her sister , and , forming a network of mutual support amid the era's gossip-driven elite circles. The friendship with Capote unraveled dramatically in 1975 when published "La Côte Basque, 1965," an excerpt from his unfinished novel that thinly veiled scandals from the Swans' lives, including depictions of Paley's husband's infidelities and her own vulnerabilities. The betrayal devastated Paley, who was already battling , leading her to sever all contact with Capote; she viewed it as a profound violation of trust, exacerbating her in her final years. Despite the rift, Paley's loyalty to her remaining circle endured, as she navigated society's intricate web of alliances and whispers without retaliating publicly. Capote later expressed regret over the pain inflicted on Paley specifically, acknowledging the toll it took on both their lives.

Philanthropy and Interests

Charitable Work

Babe Paley was deeply committed to philanthropy, particularly in the realms of and cultural preservation, where she served in leadership roles and facilitated significant fundraising efforts. As an honorary life trustee of in —near the Paleys' longtime residence—she contributed to initiatives supporting healthcare in the region, reflecting her family's historical ties to medicine through her father, renowned neurosurgeon Harvey Cushing. These events exemplified her understated yet effective approach, quietly mobilizing contributions from fellow media executives and society figures to amass millions for medical advancements by the 1970s. Her social connections, cultivated through decades in elite circles, amplified these endeavors, enabling discreet appeals that sustained ongoing support for vital health programs. Paley's philanthropy also encompassed the arts, notably through her backing of the Metropolitan Museum of Art's Costume Institute. In the late , she and close friends rallied to secure funding for Diana Vreeland's appointment as consultant, personally contributing to cover her initial salary and transforming the institute into a premier fashion archive while generating revenue via benefit galas. Beyond these targeted causes, Paley served as a trustee for the Foundation and the Greenpark Foundation, which maintained as a public green space in , underscoring her dedication to community enhancement and broadcasting's educational legacy via the Museum of Broadcasting. Her contributions, often channeled through board service and private solicitations, emphasized quiet efficacy over publicity, amassing enduring impact on health and cultural institutions.

Interior Design and Art Collection

Babe Paley collaborated closely with prominent interior designers to craft elegant, timeless spaces that blended classic sophistication with subtle modernity across her key residences. In the Paleys' at the St. Regis Hotel in during the 1950s, she worked with Billy Baldwin to create a living room described as a "Proustian, turn-of-the-century setting" featuring tented white silk walls, French antiques, and an intimate, atmosphere that emphasized understated luxury. This design philosophy carried forward when the couple relocated to their expansive 20-room apartment at in 1965, where Paley oversaw contributions from multiple experts, including and for principal rooms, a French design firm for select areas, and Baldwin for the library, resulting in layered interiors that mixed Louis XVI-style furnishings with contemporary accents. At Kiluna Farm, the Paleys' 80-acre estate purchased by in 1938, Babe Paley directed a comprehensive overhaul of the 1910 Shingle-style mansion originally designed by Walker & Gillette, hiring decorator George Stacey to update the colonial interiors with refined details while preserving the property's rural charm. The resulting spaces integrated modern elements with traditional pieces, including tropical influences drawn from the estate's renowned gardens landscaped by Russell Page, creating a harmonious weekend retreat that reflected Paley's preference for serene, nature-inspired environments. Her approach often favored neutral palettes—such as creamy whites and soft beiges—for overall cohesion, punctuated by strategic pops of color, as seen in the vivid taxi-cab yellow at , which added warmth and vitality to the otherwise restrained aesthetic. Paley's discerning eye extended to an exceptional art collection amassed jointly with her husband, leveraging William Paley's influential connections in the art world to acquire seminal modern works, including pieces by , , and , which she thoughtfully incorporated into her home designs to elevate the domestic spaces. These acquisitions, valued in the hundreds of millions of dollars as of 1990, exemplified her commitment to juxtaposing against furnishings, influencing mid-century interior trends toward eclectic yet balanced sophistication. Following William Paley's death in 1990, the collection was bequeathed to the , where it continued to support public appreciation of .

Illness and Death

Health Struggles

Babe Paley developed a lifelong heavy habit, reportedly consuming up to two packs of cigarettes a day, which became a defining and detrimental aspect of her personal life. In 1974, at the age of 58, Paley was diagnosed with during a routine medical examination, a condition directly linked to her long-term ; she initially concealed the from the public and even some close associates. She reportedly continued after the . Following the diagnosis, she underwent and at —an institution she had long supported through her , adding an ironic layer to her treatment. The aggressive treatments resulted in severe physical disfigurement, including alopecia from chemotherapy-induced , for which she wore a , and significant , which profoundly impacted her psychologically and contributed to bouts of amid the private anguish of her deteriorating health. Despite these challenges, Paley projected a stoic public facade, unflinchingly planning the details of her own down to the menu and wine selections, while rarely allowing her suffering to surface in social settings.

Final Years and Passing

Following the 1975 publication of Truman Capote's "La Côte Basque, 1965," which exposed intimate details of her life and marriage, Babe Paley severed ties with her former friend and largely withdrew from New York high society. As her lung cancer progressed, she spent her remaining time in seclusion at the family's homes, including their Manhattan apartment and properties on Long Island and in Jamaica. Paley died of on July 6, 1978, at her apartment in , just one day after her 63rd birthday. Her husband, , mobilized his considerable resources in a determined but ultimately unsuccessful effort to combat her illness and was left profoundly devastated by the loss. Despite strained family relationships in her final years, a private funeral service was held, followed by burial at the Memorial Cemetery of St. John's in , New York.

Legacy

Cultural and Fashion Impact

Babe Paley was repeatedly recognized for her exceptional style and beauty, earning placements on prestigious lists that cemented her status as a fashion icon. In 1941, Time magazine named her the world's second-best-dressed woman, following Wallis Simpson and preceding Aimée de Heeren. She continued to appear on such lists throughout her life, including her induction into the International Best Dressed List Hall of Fame in 1958. Often hailed as "the most beautiful woman of the 20th century," her poised elegance influenced generations of tastemakers and designers. Her impact extended to inspiring contemporary designers, particularly in the through the 2020s, where her refined aesthetic shaped modern luxury fashion. Tom Ford, for instance, drew early inspiration from images of Paley in magazines like , crediting her alongside figures like Nan Kempner for fueling his vision of and . As a symbol of mid-century elegance, Paley bridged old-money aristocracy—rooted in her Cushing family heritage—with the new-money elite through her marriage to CBS founder , a dynamic explored in biographies such as David Grafton's The Sisters: Babe Mortimer Paley, Betsey Roosevelt Whitney, Minnie Astor Fosburgh. These accounts portray her as the epitome of the era, blending traditional grace with emerging cultural power. In the 2020s, renewed interest in Paley's life has reframed her through a #MeToo lens, emphasizing the personal sacrifices she endured in her to maintain standing and financial security amid her husband's infidelities. This perspective underscores the power imbalances in , where women like Paley prioritized poise over confrontation. Her style philosophy, articulated in a 1944 essay, championed "tradition" through high-quality, versatile pieces like silk satins and antique-inspired designs, promoting timeless investment wardrobes that align with contemporary by favoring enduring craftsmanship over fleeting trends. Paley's "swan" persona, coined by to describe her and fellow socialites' graceful yet vulnerable allure, endures as a key symbol in studies of 20th-century culture. Representing a blend of beauty, intelligence, and strategic social navigation, this highlights the performative required to thrive in exclusive circles, influencing analyses of and in postwar society.

In Popular Culture

Babe Paley has been a central figure in literary works exploring mid-20th-century , particularly through her close association with . In Capote's unfinished novel , serialized in excerpts from 1975 to 1976 in , Paley served as the inspiration for the character Cleo Dillon in the excerpt "La Côte ," one of the elite "swans" whose private lives are satirically exposed, drawing from Capote's real-life friendships with socialites. The novel's portrayal highlighted the loneliness and vulnerabilities of these women, with Paley's perfectionism and social grace reimagined in fictional form. Biographical literature has also focused on Paley, often within broader accounts of her era's elite circles. In Laurence Leamer's 2021 book Capote's Women: A True Story of Love, Betrayal, and a for an Era, Paley is depicted as the quintessential , emphasizing her role in Capote's social world and the fallout from his betrayals. Similarly, Melanie Benjamin's 2016 historical novel The Swans of centers Paley as a glamorous yet guarded navigating fame and friendship with Capote, blending factual elements of her life with narrative drama. Earlier works, such as Sally Bedell Smith's 1988 biography In All His Glory: The Life of , touch on Paley's influence within her husband's media empire, portraying her as a poised partner amid personal and professional tensions. In television, Paley has been prominently portrayed in Ryan Murphy's 2024 FX limited series Feud: Capote vs. The Swans, where Naomi Watts embodies her as the elegant leader of Capote's swan circle, capturing her poised demeanor and the emotional toll of his literary indiscretions. The series dramatizes key moments from her life, including her friendship with Capote and her health struggles, presenting her as a symbol of refined vulnerability. Earlier depictions include a minor role in the 1998 television film Life of the Party: The Pamela Harriman Story, where Joan Severance briefly appears in a context intersecting Paley's social orbit. No major feature films have centered on Paley to date, though discussions of potential biopics have surfaced in media coverage following the Feud series. Paley's influence extends to fashion and cultural exhibits, as well as audio media. The Metropolitan Museum of Art's 2014 exhibition Charles James: Beyond Fashion featured several gowns from Paley's wardrobe, showcasing her as a style icon through photographs and artifacts that highlighted her patronage of designer . In the 2020s, podcasts exploring society scandals have revisited Paley, such as episodes in that discuss her alongside other swans in the context of Capote's betrayals and high-society dynamics. Post- coverage in 2024 and 2025 has included critiques of Paley's portrayal as a passive victim of , illness, and literary , with some observers arguing the series oversimplifies her and . Reviews in outlets like and have noted the dramatization's focus on her fragility while praising Watts' transformation into the role. These discussions have renewed interest in her story, though no additional major adaptations emerged by late 2025. In January 2025, channeled Paley at the Golden Globes, wearing Schiaparelli and drawing further attention to her enduring influence.

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