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Cheesewring

The Cheesewring is a dramatic natural granite tor perched on the western slope of Stowe's Hill in Bodmin Moor, Cornwall, England, just north of the village of Minions.^[1]^[2] This iconic formation consists of seven weathered granite slabs stacked precariously atop one another, reaching a height of approximately 32 feet (10 meters), with the uppermost slab spanning over 30 feet (9 meters) in diameter and supported by much smaller bases below.^[2] Formed over millions of years through the erosive forces of wind, rain, and freeze-thaw cycles that gradually wore away softer rock layers while leaving the harder granite intact, the Cheesewring derives its name from the traditional wooden presses used in Cornwall to squeeze whey from cheese or cider from apples.^[3]^[1] Positioned on the edge of the long-abandoned Cheesewring Quarry—a site that supplied granite for notable structures including the cladding of London's Tower Bridge—the tor exemplifies the geological and industrial heritage of Bodmin Moor.^[2] In the 18th century, local stonemason Daniel Gumb resided in a small cave at the formation's base, carving the inscription "D Gumb 1735" above the entrance, which remains visible today as a testament to human interaction with the site.^[1]^[2] Early 20th-century attempts to stabilize the structure with added support stones proved unnecessary, as the natural balance has endured despite its seemingly unstable appearance.^[2] Folklore surrounding the Cheesewring includes a legend of a rock-throwing contest between the giant Uther and Saint Tue, in which an angel intervened to place the final slab, converting the giants to Christianity; another tale claims the top stone rotates three times upon hearing a cockerel's crow.^[1]^[2] The formation's top slab features a natural depression resembling a giant stone armchair, adding to its mystical allure.^[1] Nearby prehistoric sites enhance its significance: The Hurlers, a trio of Bronze Age stone circles dating to around 1500 BC, lie to the south, while Rillaton Barrow—a Bronze Age burial mound containing the famous Rillaton Gold Cup (now in the British Museum)—is a short distance away, underscoring the Cheesewring's place within Bodmin Moor's ancient landscape.^[1]^[4] Today, the site attracts hikers and visitors via accessible trails from Minions, offering panoramic views of the moor and serving as a symbol of Cornwall's rugged natural beauty.^[1]^[3]

Description and Location

Physical Characteristics

The Cheesewring is a striking natural granite tor comprising a stack of seven irregularly balanced slabs that rise approximately 32 feet (9.8 meters) high, located on Stowe's Hill within the Bodmin Moor landscape. The structure features the smallest and lightest slabs at the base, supporting progressively larger and heavier ones toward the top, with the uppermost slab measuring about 30 feet (9.1 meters) in diameter; this inverted configuration evokes the shape of a traditional Cornish cheesewring, a press used to squeeze whey from curds in cheese-making.^[5]^[2] In a vivid 1861 account from his travelogue Rambles Beyond Railways, author Wilkie Collins portrayed the Cheesewring as a "weird fantastic form" resembling a Cornish cheese-press, likening it to a "great pile of stones" that might appear in a nightmare, rising perpendicularly amid a chaotic granite landscape. He emphasized its precarious assembly, noting that the slabs are heaped loosely with irregular projections that do not fit neatly into one another, yet the formation stands isolated on slanting ground without any visible means of artificial support. Collins observed that the fifth and sixth slabs overhang dramatically, balanced solely on smaller fragments below, creating an illusion of imminent collapse.^[5] The tor's stability arises from its natural leaning and the effects of differential weathering, which has sculpted the granite over millennia without requiring human intervention to prevent toppling, despite exposure to severe coastal winds and storms. This enduring balance has persisted for centuries, as evidenced by its unchanged appearance in historical records and modern surveys, underscoring the Cheesewring's role as an exemplary natural rock outcrop.^[5]^[1]

Geographical Context

The Cheesewring is situated on the eastern flank of Bodmin Moor in Cornwall, England, specifically atop Stowe's Hill within the parish of Linkinhorne.^[6] Its precise coordinates are 50°31′31″N 4°27′33″W, placing it approximately 1 mile northwest of the village of Minions and 4 miles north of the town of Liskeard.^[7] This positioning embeds the site within a remote upland expanse, accessible primarily by foot from nearby settlements. The surrounding landscape consists of exposed granite moorland, characterized by rolling hills, tors, and open heathland typical of Bodmin Moor, which spans nearly 200 square kilometers and forms the largest section of the Cornwall National Landscape, formerly designated as an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty.^[8] The area features public open access land under the Countryside and Rights of Way Act, allowing unrestricted exploration while preserving its wild, windswept terrain dotted with remnants of historical mining activities, such as disused engine houses and quarry scars. Access to the Cheesewring involves a short walk of about 1 mile from Minions village along well-marked public footpaths that traverse the moorland, starting from free parking areas near the Minions Heritage Centre.^[9] There are no on-site facilities such as restrooms or visitor centers at the Cheesewring itself, emphasizing its status as a rugged natural landmark best suited for prepared day visitors.^[10]

Geology

Formation Mechanisms

The Cheesewring is a granite tor formed primarily through differential weathering, a process in which softer, more jointed portions of the rock erode more rapidly than the harder, more resistant slabs, resulting in the characteristic stacked appearance of near-horizontal granite plates over millions of years. This selective erosion is guided by the granite's joint systems, which create planes of weakness that facilitate the breakdown and removal of material, while preserving the more massive corestones. The underlying Bodmin Moor granite, part of the Cornubian batholith, intruded during the early Permian period approximately 290 million years ago, providing the raw material for this landform.^[11]^[12] Environmental factors on the exposed upland of Bodmin Moor have driven the tor's development, with wind, rainfall, and freeze-thaw cycles accelerating the mechanical and chemical weathering processes. During the Tertiary period (Paleogene to Neogene, roughly 66 to 2.6 million years ago), warm and humid conditions promoted deep subsurface chemical weathering, kaolinizing the granite and preparing it for later exhumation. In the subsequent Pleistocene epoch (2.6 million to 11,700 years ago), periglacial conditions—including frost shattering and solifluction—stripped away the overlying weathered regolith, exposing and sculpting the tors through repeated freeze-thaw action in a cold climate with permafrost. These mechanisms are consistent across Bodmin Moor's broader landscape of granite tors, where similar joint-controlled erosion has produced comparable formations.^[13]^[13] Geological evidence confirms the Cheesewring's entirely natural origin, with no human intervention in its formation, countering early 19th-century speculations that it represented artificial stacking by ancient peoples or druids. Instead, the tor's development aligns with established models of granite tor evolution in southwest England, emphasizing prolonged subaerial weathering without anthropogenic influence.^[13]

Composition and Features

The Cheesewring is composed of coarse-grained, megacrystic biotite granite originating from the Bodmin Moor pluton, a component of the larger Cornubian batholith formed approximately 280-290 million years ago.^[14]^[12] This granite primarily consists of quartz in rounded aggregate grains, potassium feldspar megacrysts (including microcline and orthoclase microperthite, typically 10-20 mm in size), plagioclase (zoned oligoclase with An25-30 composition), and biotite as the dominant mica, with subordinate muscovite (often secondary) and accessory minerals such as tourmaline (~1%), apatite, topaz, andalusite, fluorite, and zircon.^[14] The rock's durable, silver-grey appearance arises from this mineral assemblage, which contributes to its resistance against breakdown.^[15] Distinctive structural features of the Cheesewring include its stack of thin, disc-like granite slabs, up to 10 meters high, formed by closely spaced sub-horizontal pseudo-bedding or dilatation joints that parallel the surface and create cantilevered corestones.^[16] These joints, along with the granite's inherent toughness, have resisted differential erosion, preserving the precarious, balanced configuration of the slabs despite surrounding weathering that has produced boulder-fronted lobes and blockfields from tor collapse.^[16] Nearby smaller tors, such as Little Cheesewring on Stowes Hill, exhibit similar joint-controlled slab formations on a reduced scale, serving as comparative examples of localized granite outcrop development.^[16] Geologically, the Cheesewring holds significant value as a site for studying weathering patterns in granite tors, particularly those influenced by periglacial processes during Quaternary cold phases, where permafrost creep, gelifluction, and macrogelifraction have shaped its castellated morphology and downslope boulder reduction.^[16] It exemplifies mature periglacial landsystems in non-glaciated terrain, contributing to broader understandings of Cornwall's geological heritage and the evolution of southwest England's upland landscapes through joint-guided denudation.^[16] Erosion has isolated the slabs via selective removal of softer material, highlighting the tor's role in illustrating long-term geomorphic stability.^[16]

History

Prehistoric Associations

The Cheesewring, a prominent granite tor on Bodmin Moor in Cornwall, England, is situated within a landscape rich in prehistoric archaeological features, particularly from the Neolithic and Bronze Age periods. It lies in close proximity to several Bronze Age sites, including the Rillaton Barrow, a large burial mound approximately 500 meters northeast of the nearby Hurlers stone circles, which was excavated in the 19th century revealing human remains, pottery, and a notable gold cup dating to around 1800 BCE.^[17] The Hurlers themselves, comprising three stone circles constructed in the Late Neolithic or Early Bronze Age (circa 2500–2000 BCE), form part of a ceremonial complex that underscores the area's significance as a ritual landscape, with the Cheesewring's distinctive silhouette potentially serving as a visual landmark within this setting.^[18] Nearby barrows and cairns, such as those associated with the Hurlers, indicate patterns of funerary and communal activity, suggesting the tor's elevated position contributed to its role in broader prehistoric settlement networks across the moor.^[19] Evidence of early human use around the Cheesewring dates back to the Neolithic period, with pollen analysis from peat profiles on Bodmin Moor revealing initial landscape modification through clearance and pastoral activities starting around 4000 BCE. These palynological studies document a shift from dense woodland and scrub to open moorland, driven by human intervention such as burning and grazing, which intensified during the Early Bronze Age and peaked with more extensive settlement.^[19] The tor's visibility from distant points on the moor likely aided in ancient navigation or marked ceremonial pathways, as evidenced by alignments in nearby monuments that incorporate tors like the Cheesewring in sightlines for astronomical or ritual purposes.^[19] Archaeological artifacts in the vicinity of the Cheesewring are sparse but include scatters of Mesolithic and Neolithic flints, such as blades and scrapers, found at sites like Butterstor on Bodmin Moor, tying into the wider pattern of prehistoric tool-making and transient hunter-gatherer activity in Cornwall.^[19] These lithic finds, often associated with early enclosures and settlements, reflect the moor's use as a resource-rich area for stone-working from at least 6000 BCE, though no direct artifacts have been recovered from the tor itself. This evidence aligns with broader Cornish prehistory, where Bodmin Moor's granite outcrops provided durable materials and prominent features for prehistoric communities.^[20]

Industrial Era and Preservation

During the Industrial Era, the area surrounding Cheesewring on Bodmin Moor emerged as a significant hub for copper mining in Cornwall, particularly from the late 18th to the 19th centuries, with major operations on nearby Caradon Hill driving economic growth through the extraction of rich copper lodes.^[21] The South Caradon Mine, for instance, became one of the UK's largest copper producers after its development in 1836, fueling the regional mining boom and supporting infrastructure like tramways that connected the sites.^[21] This industrial activity shifted focus to granite quarrying when Cheesewring Quarry was established in 1845 to exploit the high-quality granite of Stowe's Hill, with production reaching over 11,000 tons by 1858 and continuing into the early 20th century.^[22] The quarry's granite, prized for its durability and fine grain, was transported to London for prominent structures, including the cladding of Tower Bridge completed in 1894.^[22] The natural granite slabs were targeted for their superior quality, enabling large-scale blocks suitable for monumental architecture.^[22] In the late 19th century, the Cheesewring formation was at risk from expanding quarrying operations on adjacent land, with powerful blasting vibrations threatening its stability and the extension of quarry leases violating original stipulations intended to protect the landmark.^[23] These concerns alarmed the public, prompting activism from local residents and geologists who recognized the site's unique geological value.^[23] In 1870, geologist E. H. W. Dunkin published a letter in Nature highlighting the "perilous situation" of the rock pile due to nearby blasting vibrations, urging immediate preservation efforts to protect this extraordinary natural feature.^[23] Supported by community campaigns and appeals to authorities, these initiatives successfully halted the destructive proposals, marking a pivotal moment in safeguarding the tor.^[23] Today, remnants of Cheesewring Quarry, including deep excavations and disused machinery, remain visible adjacent to the formation, serving as tangible evidence of the area's industrial past.^[22] The successful preservation of Cheesewring exemplifies one of Cornwall's early conservation victories, predating formal environmental protections and underscoring growing awareness of geological heritage amid rapid industrialization.^[23]

Folklore and Culture

The Saint and Giant Legend

The Cheesewring is explained in Cornish folklore through a legend depicting a contest between a giant and a Christian saint during the early spread of Christianity in the region, around the 5th to 6th century CE, when Celtic saints began establishing missions among the local population. The giants inhabiting the caves of Bodmin Moor and surrounding areas resented the arrival of these missionaries, viewing them as intruders on their ancient pagan ways. To resolve the conflict, the giants selected their mightiest warrior, Uther, to drive out the saints.^[1]^[24] Saint Tue, a frail and unassuming holy man, confronted Uther and proposed a test of strength: a rock-throwing competition using massive granite slabs from the moor. The stakes were high—if Uther prevailed, the saints would depart Cornwall; if Tue succeeded, the giants would embrace Christianity. The pair stood at the base of Stowe's Hill and began hurling stones toward its summit, each throw landing to form the precarious stack that became the Cheesewring. Uther effortlessly completed twelve throws, but on the thirteenth, his stone slipped and tumbled back down the slope. As Tue lifted his final slab, an angel intervened, divinely guiding it to the top of the pile and securing victory for the saint.^[1] Impressed by the miracle, Uther acknowledged defeat, and the giants fulfilled their pledge by converting to the new faith, with the Cheesewring enduring as a testament to divine intervention and the triumph of Christianity over pagan forces. Local variants emphasize the giants' cave dwellings near the site, such as those in the moorland's rugged terrain, where they allegedly plotted against the saints before the contest. This tale, part of broader Cornish oral traditions, was first documented in 19th-century folklore compilations that preserved regional myths.^[1]

Literary and Artistic Depictions

In 19th-century literature, the Cheesewring was prominently featured as a natural wonder that captivated travelers exploring Cornwall's rugged landscapes. Wilkie Collins, in his 1861 travelogue Rambles Beyond Railways, described it as "the wildest and most wondrous of all the wild and wondrous structures in the rock architecture of the scene," emphasizing its precarious stack of seven granite slabs rising 32 feet without lateral support, evoking a "nightmare" yet enduring hurricanes unscathed.^[5] Collins portrayed it as a key attraction, noting picnickers and locals who welcomed visitors, underscoring its draw for those venturing beyond rail lines into the moors.^[5] Similarly, guidebooks of the era, such as Black's Guide to the Duchy of Cornwall (1879), highlighted the Cheesewring as one of Cornwall's earliest and most enduring tourist sites, predating many Victorian-era developments and drawing admiration for its geological spectacle.^[25] Artistic representations of the Cheesewring further amplified its allure during the Victorian period, with painters and illustrators capturing its dramatic form to evoke the sublime in nature. Watercolorist Samuel Prout (1783–1852), known for his picturesque Cornish scenes, depicted the formation in an early 19th-century work titled Cheese-Wring, Cornwall, portraying its towering slabs against the moor's expanse to highlight its precarious balance.^[26] By mid-century, engravers produced detailed woodcuts, such as a circa 1845 illustration showing the Cheesewring from the northwest, emphasizing its height and isolation as a symbol of untamed wilderness.^[27] In the modern era, photography has sustained its iconic status, with images by artists like David Ross showcasing the eerie equilibrium of the rocks under dramatic skies, contributing to Bodmin Moor's promotion as a destination for landscape enthusiasts.^[1] As a enduring emblem of Cornish mysticism, the Cheesewring has influenced cultural narratives that romanticize the moors' wild, otherworldly essence, often drawing inspiration from local legends of giants and saints without retelling them in full. It appears in novels evoking Bodmin Moor's desolate beauty, such as Daphne du Maurier's Jamaica Inn (1936), where the moorland's tors and mists symbolize isolation and ancient secrets, mirroring the Cheesewring's haunting presence. In film adaptations like the 1939 version of Jamaica Inn, the moor's stark formations enhance the atmosphere of folklore-tinged suspense, positioning the Cheesewring as a backdrop for Cornwall's enigmatic heritage.

Associated Sites and Figures

Nearby Monuments

The Hurlers stone circles, located approximately 0.5 miles (800 meters) south of the Cheesewring on Bodmin Moor, consist of three Bronze Age rings dating to the late Neolithic to middle Bronze Age (c. 2400–1000 BC).^[28] These circles are aligned northeast to southwest and spaced about 110 meters apart, with the northern circle measuring 34.7 meters in diameter and represented by 15 stones (originally ~30), the central one 43.4 meters (E-W) by 41.7 meters (N-S) across with 14 stones (originally ~29), and the southern 32.8 meters in diameter with 9 stones (originally ~29).^[28] To the south-west of the central circle, about 118 meters away, stand The Pipers, a pair of outlying upright stones each around 1.9 meters high.^[28] The site, excavated in the 1930s, is interpreted as a ceremonial complex linked to prehistoric rituals, and local legend attributes the circles to men turned to stone for playing hurling on the Sabbath.^[29]^[30] Other notable features in the vicinity include the ruins of Daniel Gumb's Cave near the Cheesewring. This rock house was constructed around 1735 by an 18th-century stonecutter as a dwelling carved into the granite near Cheesewring Quarry.^[31] Originally comprising three rooms and extending about 30 feet, the structure now survives as fragmented slabs and a carved inscription, reflecting early industrial-era adaptation of the landscape.^[32] On Stowe's Hill itself, where the Cheesewring serves as a central landmark, prehistoric barrows and cairns are prominent, including the Rillaton Barrow—a Bronze Age burial mound 500 meters northeast of the Hurlers—and two scheduled cairns within an earlier prehistoric hillfort complex that also encompasses field systems and hut circles.^[17]^[33] These monuments are interconnected by integrated walking trails, such as the circular path from Minions village that links the Hurlers, Stowe's Hill cairns, and Cheesewring, facilitating exploration of the area's archaeological heritage.^[29] Together, they form a key prehistoric cluster within the Cornwall and West Devon Mining Landscape, a UNESCO World Heritage Site recognized for its industrial and cultural significance, though the focus here remains on the enduring Bronze Age monuments.^[34]

Daniel Gumb and Local Inhabitants

Daniel Gumb (1703–1776) was an 18th-century Cornish stonemason born in the parish of Linkinhorne, renowned for his self-taught expertise in mathematics and astronomy. Working as a stonecutter on Bodmin Moor, he quarried granite near the Cheesewring formation, where he excavated a cave dwelling beneath a massive 10-meter-long granite slab to live rent- and tax-free, embracing an off-grid lifestyle isolated from societal norms. This eccentric choice earned him the local moniker of "Mountain Philosopher," as he shunned church attendance and pursued scholarly studies in seclusion, using the slab's flat upper surface as an observatory for stargazing and inscribing it with mathematical diagrams, including representations of Euclid's problems and Pythagoras' theorem.^[35]^[36] Gumb shared this rudimentary habitation—approximately 12 feet deep with stone-lined walls, a chimney, and an adjacent garden—with his wife, Florence, and their numerous children, some of whom were born and died within the cave. His family's off-grid existence highlighted his reclusive tendencies, though he maintained ties to the community through his trade, carving several slate gravestones for Linkinhorne's St Melor's Churchyard, including one bearing a satirical epitaph mocking the burial of the poor outside church walls: "Here we lye without the wall / Twas full within they made a call / And we being poor could not get in / Till death did, for to let us." Gumb died in his moorland home in 1776 at age 73 and was buried in Linkinhorne churchyard, where examples of his stonework endure as testaments to his skill and wit.^[35]^[31]^[37] Beyond Gumb's singular story, the Cheesewring area attracted transient residents during the 18th and 19th centuries, primarily tin miners exploiting nearby streams and later granite quarry workers drawn to the moor's abundant stone resources amid Cornwall's industrial expansion. These laborers, often living in temporary shelters or moorland huts, contributed to the region's economic activity without establishing permanent communities, their presence fleeting compared to Gumb's enduring legacy.^[38]

References

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Some of the slabs are up to 30 feet across, and sit atop much smaller rocks. One of the rock formations has a depression in the top, like a huge stone armchair.
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