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Mimi Sheraton

Mimi Sheraton (born Miriam Solomon; February 10, 1926 – April 6, 2023) was an American , , and author renowned for her pioneering contributions to restaurant reviewing and culinary writing over a six-decade career. She gained prominence as the first woman to serve as restaurant critic for from 1976 to 1983, where she innovated the field by reviewing in disguise and emphasizing detailed, sensory descriptions of dishes and dining experiences. Sheraton authored 16 books on food and culture, including influential titles like The German Cookbook (1965), The Bialy Eaters (2000), and 1,000 Foods to Eat Before You Die (2015), which showcased her expertise in global cuisines and personal culinary history. Born in , , to Joseph and Beatrice Solomon, a non-kosher Jewish couple, Sheraton developed an early passion for food amid a modest upbringing as one of two children. She graduated from in 1943 and earned a degree from in 1947, initially pursuing careers in advertising, interior decorating, and editing for magazines such as Seventeen and , where she focused on food and furnishings. Sheraton's transition to food criticism began in the mid-1950s with restaurant reviews for Cue under a pseudonym, followed by contributions in the 1960s and 1970s to The Village Voice and New York magazine, including an exhaustive 11-month evaluation of 1,196 food items at Bloomingdale’s in 1972. At The New York Times, she reviewed thousands of meals. Over her career, she traveled to 49 countries, amassing 21,170 restaurant experiences as of 2013. After leaving The Times in 1983, she continued writing for outlets like Vanity Fair, Time, and Condé Nast Traveler, and published memoirs such as Eating My Words (2004), reflecting on her career and the evolution of American dining. In her personal life, Sheraton was married twice: first to William Schlifman, ending in in 1954, and then to businessman Richard Falcone in 1955, with whom she had a son, ; Falcone died in 2014. She passed away at age 97 in at NYU Langone Medical Center, survived by her son and granddaughter, leaving a legacy as a transformative figure who elevated food criticism to an art form.

Early life

Family background

Mimi Sheraton was born Miriam Solomon on February 10, 1926, in , . She was one of two children born to Joseph Solomon, a wholesale produce merchant who sold fruits and vegetables in Manhattan's markets, and Beatrice (née Breit) Solomon, an excellent home cook whose culinary skills were central to the family dynamic. Sheraton's family was of East European Jewish heritage, with roots in a middle-class Brooklyn household in the Midwood section, where cultural Jewish traditions blended with everyday life. Although the family did not strictly observe kosher laws—her mother Beatrice had abandoned ritual observance in favor of a more flexible approach to ingredients like cream and butter—the home retained echoes of Jewish culinary staples such as matzo ball soup and dill pickles. This environment emphasized home-cooked meals prepared with care, fostering a deep appreciation for food as a communal and sensory experience from an early age. Sheraton's early interest in food was profoundly shaped by her parents' professions and family routines. Her father's work as a produce merchant exposed her to an abundance of fresh ingredients during visits to bustling markets like the old , igniting her curiosity about diverse flavors and quality sourcing. Meanwhile, her mother's ambitious cooking, including assistance to her own mother —a strictly kosher cook—in tasks like crushing walnuts for cookies, instilled a passion for the art of preparation and the joy of shared meals. Family gatherings often revolved around lively discussions and critiques of dishes, laying the groundwork for Sheraton's lifelong culinary discernment.

Education

Sheraton graduated from in , , in 1943. During her time there, she contributed to the school newspaper, initially interviewing players such as and at , though her editor redirected her focus toward writing about food rather than sports, foreshadowing her future career path. She then enrolled at , where she studied advertising and journalism at the School of Commerce. After eloping in 1945, she switched to night classes to complete her junior and senior years, earning her degree in 1947. These academic pursuits equipped her with foundational skills in and that later informed her analytical approach to food criticism. Complementing her formal education, Sheraton cultivated her culinary knowledge through self-directed efforts, including avid reading of Gourmet magazine from age 16, which sparked her aspiration to write about food. This was augmented by keen observation during family outings to restaurants, where her parents debated the quality of dishes like hot dogs and pastrami, honing her discerning palate and bridging her journalistic training to gastronomic interests.

Career

Early journalism

Sheraton began her journalism career in the late 1940s after studying at , initially working as a copywriter for an before transitioning to home furnishings writing. In 1949, she joined Seventeen magazine as the home furnishings editor, where she contributed articles on , , and targeted at young women. While at Seventeen, Sheraton's interest in emerged; she collaborated with the magazine's food editor in the test kitchen, leading to her first forays into food-related features, including recipes and culinary tips integrated with lifestyle content. By the early 1950s, Sheraton moved to as managing editor of its supplement division, continuing to write about home design and furnishings while occasionally incorporating food elements into her pieces. Her freelance career took off around this time, spanning over two decades and focusing on women's publications such as , Cue (under the pseudonym Martha Martin), Town & Country, and Coronet. In the , her expanded to restaurant reviews for publications including and New York magazine. These assignments allowed her to develop early food features, often blending culinary topics with and domestic advice, as she pursued as a passionate alongside her primary editorial roles. Sheraton's freelance work deepened her culinary expertise through extensive travel and hands-on recipe development; in 1959, she consulted on the menu for the newly opened in , researching international dishes, and in 1960, she contributed to the City Portraits travel guide for , visiting 60 cities to explore local foods and markets. This period marked her entry into food authorship with the publication of her debut books in the early 1960s. The Seducer's Cookbook: A Guide to Love-Making Through the Five Senses (1963) was a playful collection of recipes and sensory-themed romantic suggestions, reflecting her lighthearted approach to blending food with lifestyle. It was followed by The German Cookbook: A Complete Guide to Mastering Authentic German Cooking (1965), a comprehensive volume of traditional recipes that showcased her growing research into ethnic cuisines.

New York Times tenure

In 1976, Mimi Sheraton was appointed as the first female restaurant critic for The New York Times, a role she held until 1983. During her tenure, she established a rigorous methodology, visiting each restaurant at least three times—sometimes up to a dozen—to ensure consistency in her assessments, and she refined the paper's existing star-rating system to evaluate not just food quality but the full dining experience. Her reviews were known for their precise, sensory-driven prose that dissected flavors, textures, and preparations with unsparing detail, often blending culinary analysis with broader cultural observations. Sheraton's critiques of iconic New York City establishments exemplified her exacting style. In her November 1977 review of Lutèce, the esteemed restaurant, she awarded three stars, praising the "almost perfect experience" in dishes like poached with but critiquing inconsistencies in execution and service that occasionally marred the elegance. She later elevated Lutèce to four stars in 1980, calling it "the best restaurant in ." Similarly, her assessment of Mamma Leone's, a long-standing tourist staple, was sharply critical, faulting overpriced, mediocre fare like with unripe and that evoked canned , highlighting how the venue prioritized spectacle over substance. These pieces underscored her commitment to authenticity, refusing to indulge hype at the expense of genuine quality. Sheraton innovated restaurant criticism by insisting on anonymous dining to capture unvarnished experiences, employing elaborate disguises such as wigs, tinted glasses, and hats to evade recognition—a practice she pioneered in the 1970s that became standard for critics. Beyond food, she emphasized service, ambiance, and cultural context, rating elements like decor, staff attentiveness, and even diner attire to provide practical guidance for readers. As the in the role, she navigated industry and expectations that often stereotyped female critics as less authoritative, yet her bold, unapologetic voice defied these norms, earning her influence despite occasional pushback. She also advocated for diverse cuisines by regularly reviewing affordable "ethnic" establishments alongside high-end spots, broadening the scope of Times coverage to include South Indian vegetarian fare, Afghan dishes, and other underrepresented options that reflected New York's multicultural fabric.

Post-NYT contributions

After leaving her position as restaurant critic for in 1983, Mimi Sheraton diversified her career through freelance , contributing reviews and articles to prominent publications starting in the 1980s. She wrote for , , Time, , , and later , where she maintained a column until around 2018, offering insights into dining trends and culinary experiences. Sheraton also engaged in educational roles, lecturing on food history and criticism at institutions such as the School of Hotel Administration and the . Her talks often explored the evolution of cuisines and the craft of , drawing from her extensive professional background to inform students and professionals in the field. In her freelance work, Sheraton contributed significantly to coverage of global food scenes, reviewing international cuisines and producing -based journalism that highlighted diverse culinary traditions. For instance, she examined Southeast Asian flavors and West African influences in , while sharing memorable meals from destinations like Denmark and to underscore cultural and sensory dimensions of eating abroad. In her later years, Sheraton's columns for addressed the evolving dining landscape, commenting on shifts in restaurant culture and service. She also played a mentoring role for emerging critics, influencing figures like Bill Addison through her emphasis on rigorous, service-oriented in .

Written works

Cookbooks and guides

Mimi Sheraton's cookbooks and guides evolved from playful, niche explorations of in the to authoritative, globally oriented references that drew on her extensive travels and journalistic expertise in selecting recipes and ingredients. Her early works emphasized cultural authenticity and historical context, providing accessible instructions for home cooks, while later books reflected a broader synthesis of international flavors, influencing trends in diverse home cooking by promoting regional traditions and lesser-known dishes. Her debut cookbook, The Seducer's Cookbook (1963), offered a whimsical collection of recipes designed to enhance romantic encounters, blending aphrodisiac lore with practical dishes like oyster preparations and chocolate desserts, all presented with historical anecdotes on food's seductive powers. This lighthearted guide, informed by Sheraton's emerging interest in food's social roles, received acclaim for its innovative, accessible approach to themed cooking, appealing to a mid-century audience seeking fun, flirtatious culinary ideas. In The German Cookbook: A Complete Guide to Mastering Authentic Cooking (1965), Sheraton compiled over 500 recipes gathered through extensive research across Germany's regions, focusing on traditional preparations of sausages, breads, and hearty stews with precise instructions for home replication. The book highlighted historical and regional variations, such as Bavarian specialties and nose-to-tail pork dishes, establishing it as a definitive resource on authentic fare that remains in print after nearly 60 years, underscoring its enduring commercial success and influence on American perceptions of European home cooking. Sheraton's From My Mother's Kitchen: Recipes and Reminiscences (1979) drew on her Austrian-Jewish heritage, featuring over 200 recipes for dishes like strudels, soups, and pastries, interwoven with family stories that connected personal history to culinary traditions. Praised for its warmth and authenticity, the book bridged generational cooking knowledge, encouraging readers to recreate immigrant-era meals at home. The New York Times Menu Cook Book (1977), co-authored with Craig Claiborne, provided seasonal menus with recipes adapted from The New York Times, emphasizing balanced, elegant dining for everyday and special occasions. This collaborative work showcased Sheraton's editorial expertise, offering practical guidance on meal planning and presentation that influenced American home entertaining. Sheraton's The Whole World Loves Chicken Soup: Recipes and Lore to Comfort Body and Soul (1996) assembled more than 100 global variations of the dish, from Asian coconut-infused broths to Eastern European classics, accompanied by cultural superstitions and historical stories that contextualize its universal appeal. Praised for its accessible recipes and evocative narratives, the book won both the /IACP Award and the in 1996, boosting its popularity and encouraging home cooks to experiment with twists on comfort foods. Culminating her career, 1,000 Foods to Eat Before You Die: A Food Lover's Life List (2015) curated an opinionated selection of essential dishes and ingredients organized by , from pastas to Mexican moles, with vivid descriptions emphasizing sensory details and cultural significance to guide readers toward authentic experiences. This comprehensive guide, developed over a decade, influenced home cooking trends by promoting a bucket-list approach to global flavors, achieving strong sales and critical reception for its authoritative yet approachable curation of must-try items.

Memoirs and essays

Mimi Sheraton's exploration of Jewish baking traditions and personal heritage is vividly captured in her 2000 book The Bialy Eaters: The Story of a Bread and a Lost World, where she traces the origins of the bialy—a chewy, onion-flecked roll—from its roots in Bialystok, , to the Jewish diaspora communities in , , , and . Drawing on her own Eastern European Jewish background, Sheraton interweaves family stories with historical research, highlighting how the bread's production and consumption evoke a vanished shaped by and cultural adaptation. The narrative reflects her philosophy that food serves as a portal to memory and identity, blending ethnographic detail with affectionate reminiscences of New York's bakeries. In her 2004 memoir Eating My Words: An Appetite for Life, Sheraton blends career anecdotes with intimate food memories, recounting her evolution from a Brooklyn childhood steeped in kosher and Austrian-influenced cooking to her pioneering role as a restaurant critic. She details the development of her tasting methods, such as methodically sampling every item in a store's offerings—like the 1,196 products at Bloomingdale's food hall in a landmark 1972 article—and her use of disguises to ensure authentic dining experiences, noting how service often varied dramatically for unrecognized patrons. The book offers witty insights into her pet peeves, including the inflated treatment of known critics and the superficiality of trendy restaurant atmospheres, underscoring her commitment to honest, incognito evaluation. Mimi Sheraton's Eating In, Drinking Out: The Casual Guide to New York City Restaurants (1984) collected her restaurant reviews and essays from magazines, offering candid assessments of dining scenes with recommendations for casual and upscale spots, reflecting her sharp observational style. This work extended her influence beyond newspapers, providing readers with practical, opinionated navigation of New York's culinary landscape. Sheraton's essays and collected columns, published in outlets like and , delve into dining and the evolution of American culinary culture, often critiquing shifts toward noisy, performative spaces over substantive . These pieces reveal her broader philosophy, emphasizing precision in tasting—relying on rather than notes—and her disdain for industry fads that prioritize spectacle over flavor integrity. Through such writings, she advocated for a thoughtful approach to eating, informed by her decades of observing how social and historical forces shape the table.

Recognition

Awards

Mimi Sheraton received several prestigious awards throughout her career, recognizing her contributions to food writing and criticism. In 1974, she won the Penney-Missouri Award for her work at New York magazine. In 1996, her cookbook The Whole World Loves Chicken Soup earned the Julia Child Award from the International Association of Culinary Professionals (IACP), the IACP Cookbook Award in the Single Subject category, and the James Beard Foundation Award in the Single Subject Specialty Cookbook category, honoring her innovative compilation of over 200 international variations on the classic dish that highlighted global culinary diversity. Sheraton's journalistic excellence was further acknowledged by the with a 2000 award for Magazine Feature Writing About Restaurants and/or Chefs, for her article "Seasons in the Sun," which chronicled the history and legacy of the . In 2016, the presented her with the Augie Award as a Legend of Dining, celebrating her lifetime achievements in shaping the city's culinary landscape through incisive criticism and scholarship. These accolades underscored Sheraton's pioneering role in a field long dominated by men, as she became the first woman to serve as the ' chief restaurant critic from 1976 to 1983, breaking barriers and elevating standards for food journalism. Her honors from organizations like the IACP and reflected not only individual works but her enduring impact on culinary discourse.

Legacy and influence

Mimi Sheraton's tenure as the first female restaurant critic for from 1976 to 1983 positioned her as a trailblazer for women in food journalism, a field long dominated by men. Her rigorous and unapologetic style challenged gender norms, paving the way for future critics and inspiring figures like , who served as Times critic from 1993 to 1999 and credited Sheraton's influence, stating, "She was tough, fearless and forthright... For the most part, I followed her lead." Sheraton profoundly shaped modern restaurant reviewing standards by emphasizing holistic experiences beyond mere taste, incorporating assessments of service, atmosphere, and patron treatment. She pioneered the use of elaborate disguises—such as wigs, hats, and glasses—to maintain and evaluate how establishments interacted with ordinary diners, a practice that influenced subsequent critics like . Her methodology involved multiple visits (often three to twelve) per restaurant, paying her own bills, and introducing the star-rating system still used by the Times, which prioritized comprehensive, diner-focused critiques over superficial evaluations. Following her death on April 6, 2023, at age 97, Sheraton received widespread posthumous recognition in major media outlets, underscoring her enduring impact on culinary discourse. Tributes poured in from peers and publications, with Eater hailing her as a pioneer whose verdicts could "make or break" restaurants, and NPR reflecting on her power to chronicle and elevate New York's evolving food scene. Current Times critic Ligaya Mishan described her as "magisterial and brooks no argument," while Bill Addison praised her commitment to diners' real-world needs, cementing her legacy as an authoritative voice in the industry. Through her accessible and broad coverage, Sheraton contributed to the of by making diverse global cuisines approachable to mainstream audiences. Her reviews often balanced high-end establishments with affordable "ethnic" options, highlighting immigrant-driven dishes and institutional improvements, while books like 1,000 Foods to Eat Before You Die (2015) served as a global guide to eclectic eats from to bialys, blending cultural history with practical enthusiasm to broaden culinary appreciation.

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