Ruth Reichl (born January 16, 1948) is an American food writer, chef, and magazine editor renowned for her influential career as a restaurantcritic and her bestselling memoirs that blend culinary experiences with personalstorytelling.[1] Born in New York City to parents Ernst Reichl, a graphic designer and publisher, and Miriam Reichl, a music scholar, she grew up in a household where food played a central role despite her mother's unconventional cooking style.[1] Reichl earned a B.A. and M.A. in art history from the University of Michigan in 1970, experiences that informed her later appreciation for the sensory and cultural aspects of dining.[1]Reichl's professional journey began in the 1970s amid California's culinary revolution, where she cooked at the Swallow Restaurant in Berkeley from 1974 to 1977 and started writing about food, publishing her first book, Mmmmm: A Feastiary, in 1972.[1] She rose to prominence as a restaurant critic for New West and California magazines from 1977 to 1984, before joining the Los Angeles Times in 1984 as its food editor and chief restaurant critic, where her reviews helped elevate the paper's food section to national acclaim.[2] In 1993, she moved to The New York Times as its restaurant critic, adopting disguises to maintain anonymity and expanding the scope of reviews to include cultural and social contexts, an approach that earned her widespread recognition.[1]From 1999 to 2009, Reichl served as editor-in-chief of Gourmet magazine, revitalizing the publication with innovative content that won multiple awards before its closure amid the 2008 financial crisis.[2] Post-Gourmet, she co-produced the PBS series Gourmet's Diary of a Foodie (2006–2008) and authored several acclaimed books, including the memoirs Tender at the Bone (1998), Comfort Me with Apples (2001), Garlic and Sapphires (2005), Not Becoming My Mother (2009), and Save Me the Plums (2019), as well as the novels Delicious! (2014) and The Paris Novel (2024), and the cookbook My Kitchen Year (2015).[3] Her writing has been honored with six James Beard Foundation Awards, including two for restaurant criticism (one during her time at the Los Angeles Times and the 1998 Newspaper Restaurant Review or Critique for The New York Times), multimedia in 2009, culminating in the Lifetime Achievement Award in 2024 for her enduring impact on American food culture.[4][5]
Early Life and Education
Family and Childhood
Ruth Reichl was born on January 16, 1948, in New York City to Ernst Reichl, a GermanJewish immigrant and accomplished typographer and bookdesigner, and Miriam Brudno Reichl, an AmericanJewish womanborn in Cleveland, Ohio, whose family had Eastern Europeanroots.[6][7][8]Ernst, who immigrated from Germany to the United States in 1926 and became a prominent figure in New York's publishing world, worked for major houses like Random House and Knopf, designing notable editions such as James Joyce's Ulysses.[9]Miriam, who had dreamed of becoming a doctor like her father but was discouraged by societal expectations for women of her generation, instead pursued interests in music and literature, earning a PhD in music from the Sorbonne at age 19 before opening a bookstore.[10][11]Reichl spent her childhood in Greenwich Village, a vibrant bohemian neighborhood that exposed her to diverse cultures and cuisines from an early age. Her family dynamics were shaped by her parents' contrasting personalities and her mother's untreated bipolar disorder, which manifested in extreme mood swings, frequent visits to doctors, and hypochondriac tendencies that led to erratic behaviors.[12][13] Miriam's passion for entertaining often resulted in unconventional and sometimes dangerous cooking habits, such as serving moldy food or undercooked dishes, prompting young Reichl to intervene by preparing safer meals for guests and developing an early aversion to waste while igniting her lifelong fascination with food as a source of comfort and control.[14][7] The family frequently dined out at ethnic restaurants in neighborhoods like Chinatown and Yorkville, where Reichl bonded with her father over explorations of markets and international flavors, fostering her appreciation for culinary diversity.[7]During her teenage years, Reichl's interests were influenced by her father's artistic world of typography and design, sparking her own early pursuits in art and creativity amid the cultural richness of 1960sNew York. Family trips and local outings, including exposure to global exhibits, further broadened her palate and worldview, setting the stage for her later academic path at the University of Michigan.[7][1]
Higher Education
Reichl attended the University of Michigan in Ann Arbor, where she earned a Bachelor of Arts degree in sociology in 1968. Following her undergraduate studies, she pursued graduate work at the same institution, obtaining a Master of Arts in art history in 1970. These academic pursuits provided her with a foundation in social analysis and aesthetic appreciation that later informed her discerning approach to cultural critique.During her time at the university, Reichl experienced the dynamic atmosphere of Ann Arbor in the late 1960s, a period marked by intense counterculture movements and widespread participation in anti-war protests against the Vietnam War, which shaped the worldview of many students including herself. The university's campus was a hub for such activism, fostering a sense of social engagement and experimentation that influenced her early perspectives on community and creativity.Upon completing her master's degree in 1970, Reichl relocated to Berkeley, California, with her first husband, Douglas Hollis, initiating her deep involvement with the Bay Area's innovative food culture.[15][16][17]
Professional Career
Early Roles in Food Journalism
After graduating from the University of Michigan, Ruth Reichl moved to Berkeley, California, in the early 1970s, where she became immersed in the burgeoning food cooperative scene amid the city's countercultural food movement.[18][6] This era emphasized communal eating and political activism around food, with Reichl participating in co-ops that promoted shared cooking and sourcing from local producers.[19][20]From 1974 to 1977, Reichl served as chef and co-owner of The Swallow, a collectively owned restaurant in Berkeley affiliated with the University of California Art Museum.[21][22] There, she developed menus highlighting organic and locally sourced ingredients, reflecting the "delicious revolution" led by pioneers like Alice Waters and aligning with the organic food ethos gaining traction in the Bay Area.[23][24] Her hands-on role in the kitchen at The Swallow honed her culinary skills and deepened her commitment to fresh, sustainable practices during California's 1970s foodrevolution.[25][26]Reichl began her freelance writing career in the early 1970s, publishing her first food-related work, Mmmmm: A Feastiary, in 1972, which captured her evolving passion for gastronomy.[27] By 1978, she transitioned to her first staff position as a restaurant reviewer for New West magazine, where she covered Bay Area eateries with a focus on their cultural and sensory appeal rather than traditional star ratings.[21][28] This role marked her entry into professional food journalism, blending her restaurant experience with narrative-driven critiques of the region's diverse dining landscape.[29]
Restaurant Criticism
In 1984, Ruth Reichl joined the Los Angeles Times as its restaurantcritic, a role she held until 1993, during which she also served as food editor starting in 1990.[30] In this position, she elevated the paper's food coverage by introducing annual "Top 40 Restaurants" lists, which highlighted exceptional dining options across diverse cuisines and price points, emphasizing the city's vibrant ethnic scenes.[31] Her reviews focused on accessibility and authenticity, influencing local diners to explore beyond traditional fine dining and contributing to the democratization of Los Angeles's culinary landscape.[31]Reichl transitioned to The New York Times in 1993 as chief restaurant critic, serving until 1999, where she became renowned for her rigorous anonymity protocols, including elaborate disguises such as wigs, makeup, and fabricated personas like "Chloe," a glamorous blonde, and "Brenda," a frumpy Midwesterner.[32] These methods allowed her to experience service as an ordinary patron, exposing inconsistencies in restaurant treatment based on perceived status.[32] One of her most notable reviews was of Le Cirque in 1993, where she detailed stark disparities: as the unrecognized "Molly," a disheveled tourist, she received subpar seating and rushed service, while subsequent visits as a known critic yielded preferential treatment, including prime tables and attentive staff.[32] This piece, which ultimately awarded the restaurant three stars, sparked controversy by critiquing elitism and gender biases in high-end New York establishments, prompting industry-wide discussions on equitable service.[32]During her tenure, Reichl reshaped New York dining trends by prioritizing reviews of immigrant-owned eateries in outer boroughs, affordable global cuisines like Japanese, Korean, Indian, and Chinese, and value-driven experiences over exclusive haute cuisine.[33] Her approach demystified fine dining, encouraging a broader audience to engage with the city's multicultural foodscene and influencing chefs and owners to innovate inclusively.[34] This shift broadened the scope of restaurantcriticism, making it more reflective of everyday eaters and contributing to the 1990s boom in diverse, accessible dining options.[33]Reichl's experiences as a critic informed her 2005 memoir Garlic and Sapphires: The Secret Life of a Critic in Disguise, which chronicles her professional strategies and the ethical challenges of anonymous reviewing during her New York years.[32]
Magazine Editorship
In April 1999, Ruth Reichl was appointed editor-in-chief of Gourmet magazine, succeeding Gail Zweigenthal, who had led the publication since 1991.[35] Drawing on her acclaimed tenure as restaurant critic for The New York Times from 1993 to 1999, Reichl aimed to modernize the longstanding title, which was perceived as somewhat staid compared to competitors like Food & Wine.[35]Reichl revitalized Gourmet by shifting its focus toward more contemporary and inclusive content, replacing traditional recipe columns with personal essays while later reinstating accessible recipes in response to reader demand.[36] She introduced striking photography, such as elaborate photo shoots for covers featuring ingredients like pomegranates, and expanded editorial coverage to encompass global cuisines through diverse voices, in-depth travel narratives (including pieces by Anthony Bourdain), and practical home cooking features like 15-minute meals and seasonal produce spotlights.[36] These initiatives broadened the magazine's appeal, fostering a sense of community and adventure in food, and drove circulation to a peak of 980,000 subscribers by 2009.[37][38]Despite these successes, Gourmet faced mounting pressures from the 2008 financial crisis, which eroded advertising revenues across the publishingindustry. In October 2009, Condé Nast abruptly announced the magazine's closure after 68 years, citing economic downturns and shifts in media consumption; the November issue became its final edition, featuring resilient themes of comfort and adaptation through recipes and stories emphasizing homebound creativity amid hardship.[37] In the immediate aftermath, Reichl reflected on how the crisis accelerated transformations in the food sector, including a pivot toward digital platforms and more economical, community-oriented cooking practices, even as Gourmet's loyal readership highlighted the enduring value of print journalism in culinary discourse.[37]
Post-Gourmet Ventures
Following the abrupt closure of Gourmet magazine in October 2009, Ruth Reichl transitioned to a more independent phase of her career, diversifying into television, digital media, and public advocacy within the culinary world.Reichl served as a judge on Bravo's Top Chef Masters from 2011 to 2013, appearing across Seasons 3, 4, and 5 to provide expert commentary on the culinary challenges faced by professional chefs. In this role, she evaluated dishes alongside host Curtis Stone and fellow judges, drawing on her extensive background in restaurant criticism to offer insights into flavor profiles, technique, and innovation during high-stakes competitions. Her participation helped elevate the show's focus on established culinary talents, with Reichl noting in interviews that the experience allowed her to observe the pressures of professional kitchens in a dynamic, unscripted format.[39][40]Post-2009, Reichl became a sought-after speaker at food festivals and literary events, delivering keynotes and panels on topics ranging from food writing to cultural shifts in dining. Notable appearances include the Melbourne Writers' Festival in 2014, where she discussed her novel Delicious!, and the Los Angeles Times Festival of Books in 2019, focusing on the evolution of food media. She has also engaged at culinary gatherings such as the Charleston Wine + Food Festival, contributing to discussions on contemporary gastronomy and sharing anecdotes from her career. These engagements underscored her role as a bridge between journalism, literature, and public discourse on food.[41][42][43]In December 2021, Reichl launched her Substack newsletterLa Briffe, a platform for essays on cooking, eating, culture, and currentevents in the foodlandscape, which quickly attracted tens of thousands of subscribers. The newsletter features personal reflections, restaurant recommendations, and explorations of culinary history, often blending memoir with timely commentary. Complementing this digital venture, Reichl co-hosts the related podcast Three Ingredients with chefs Nancy Silverton and Laurie Ochoa, discussing food trends and inspirations.[44][45][46][47]As of 2025, Reichl's activities continue to emphasize sustainable eating and systemic issues in American agriculture. She produced the 2023 documentary Food and Country, directed by Laura Gabbert, which examines the vulnerabilities of small farmers, ranchers, and restaurants amid the COVID-19 pandemic and broader industrial food challenges, advocating for more resilient, ethical practices. Through La Briffe, she has offered ongoing commentary on topics like the ethics of meatconsumption and food politics, including a 2024 post questioning the prevalence of corned beef traditions and a 2025 essay on rising beef prices and steakhouses. Concurrently, Reichl has promoted her 2024 novelThe ParisNovel at events such as the Saratoga Book Festival in October 2025 and the Henrico County Public Library series in March 2025, weaving discussions of food's cultural role into her appearances.[48][49][50][51][52][53][54]
Literary Works
Memoirs
Ruth Reichl's memoirs weave personal narratives with culinary experiences, exploring themes of identity, resilience, and the transformative power of food across different stages of her life. Her debut memoir, Tender at the Bone: Growing Up at the Table (1998), chronicles her childhood and early influences, using food as a metaphor for lifelessons learned through familydynamics and early culinary encounters.[55] In it, Reichl recounts her mother's chaotic yet passionate approach to entertaining, which instilled in her a deep appreciation for the sensory and emotional aspects of cooking, shaping her path toward a career in food journalism.[56]The sequel, Comfort Me with Apples: More Adventures at the Table (2001), delves into Reichl's mid-career years, focusing on her evolving relationships and professional growth in the culinary world.[57] It details the end of her first marriage, her immersion in restaurant kitchens from Bangkok to Paris, and her entry into food writing, all framed by intimate reflections on love and ambition.[58] Food serves as both solace and catalyst, highlighting how Reichl's personal upheavals paralleled her rising expertise as a chef and critic.In Garlic and Sapphires: The Secret Life of a Critic in Disguise (2005), Reichl examines her tenure as restaurant critic for The New York Times, emphasizing the disguises she adopted to maintain anonymity.[59] The memoir reveals the creation of personas like the frumpy Miriam or the sophisticated Chloe, which allowed unbiased assessments of New York's dining scene while exploring themes of identity and deception in journalism.[24] Interwoven recipes and excerpts from her reviews underscore the artistry of criticism, blending humor with insights into the restaurant world's theatrics.Not Becoming My Mother: And Other Things She Taught Me Along the Way (2009) offers a concise tribute to Reichl's mother, reflecting on her influence without emulating her.[60] Through letters and memories, Reichl portrays her mother's unconventional life and mental health struggles, crediting her for lessons in independence and authenticity that guided Reichl's own choices.[61]Reichl's later works address professional triumphs and losses. Save Me the Plums: My Gourmet Memoir (2019) details her decade as editor-in-chief of Gourmet magazine, from revitalizing its content in the 2000s to its abrupt closure amid the 2008 financial crisis.[62] The narrative captures the magazine's creative peak, her leadership challenges, and the emotional toll of its demise, with recipes evoking the era's culinary optimism.[63]Finally, My Kitchen Year: 136 Recipes That Saved My Life (2015) serves as a hybrid memoir-cookbook, chronicling Reichl's grief following her husband's death and Gourmet's shutdown through seasonal cooking and journal-like entries. It portrays solitude in the kitchen as a path to recovery, featuring 136 recipes that symbolize healing and the restorative role of everyday meals.[64]
Novels
Ruth Reichl's foray into fiction began with her debut novel Delicious! in 2014, marking a shift from her acclaimed memoirs to narrative storytelling that leverages her deep knowledge of culinary worlds. Following the shutdown of her online food venture Gilt Taste, Reichl turned to fiction as a creative outlet, infusing her plots with sensory-rich depictions of food as a catalyst for personal and historical revelation.[65]In Delicious!, the protagonist Billie Breslin, a young woman endowed with an exceptional palate, relocates from California to New York City for a position at the esteemed food magazine Delicious!. Amid the magazine's closure, Billie stumbles upon a hidden cache of letters in its disused library, penned by a young Italian-American girl to the famed chef James Beard during World War II. These correspondences unveil a long-buried WWII-era recipe tied to wartime rationing and immigrant ingenuity, drawing Billie into a mystery that intersects with a fictional family-owned cheese shop in Little Italy. The narrative weaves culinary history with themes of self-discovery, family secrets, and the enduring allure of food as a bridge across time, showcasing Reichl's expertise in evoking the textures and flavors of New York's gastronomic underbelly.[66][67]Reichl's second novel, The Paris Novel (2024), transports readers to 1980s Paris through the eyes of Stella St. Vincent, a reserved copy editor in New York who receives an unexpected inheritance from her difficult mother upon her death. Prompted by the windfall, Stella embarks on a transformative trip to Paris, where she navigates the city's vibrant art and culinary landscapes, forging connections that prompt reflection on her identity and past traumas. As Stella delves into enigmas surrounding a stolen Manet painting and the opulent world of the House of Dior, the story emphasizes themes of personal reinvention, the overlooked contributions of women in art and fashion, and the restorative power of gastronomic experiences—from buttery croissants to lavish haute cuisine. Rich with evocative descriptions of Parisian fare, the novel subtly echoes stylistic parallels to Reichl's memoirs in its intimate portrayal of food as emotional sustenance.[68][69]
Cookbooks and Other Writings
Reichl's initial cookbook, Mmmmm: A Feastiary, marked her entry into food writing in 1972, published by Holt, Rinehart and Winston when she was 24 years old. Drawing from her experiences in Berkeley, California, the book presents an illustrated collection of whimsical recipes, such as spaghetti carbonara, coquille St. Jacques, and oatmeal cookies, enhanced by artwork commissioned from local artists to evoke a playful, feastiary spirit.[70][28]As editor-in-chief of Gourmet magazine, Reichl oversaw the compilation of Gourmet Today: More than 1,000 All-New Recipes for the Contemporary Kitchen, published in 2009 by Houghton Mifflin Harcourt. This expansive volume features over 1,000 all-new recipes tested in the Gourmet test kitchen, emphasizing accessible, modern dishes with increased focus on vegetarian options, global influences, and preparations that can often be completed in under an hour.[71]In addition to her cookbooks, Reichl has contributed forewords, introductions, and editorial notes to various food literature anthologies and works. She penned the preface for Eating Words: A Norton Anthology of Food Writing in 2015, edited by Sandra M. Gilbert and Roger J. Porter, where she described the period as a "golden age of food writing." Earlier, she provided a new introduction for the 2007 edition of Shizuo Tsuji's Japanese Cooking: A Simple Art, highlighting its enduring influence on American home cooks, and an introduction for the 2001 reissue of Clémentine Paddleford's Clémentine in the Kitchen.[72]
Recognition and Personal Life
Awards and Honors
Ruth Reichl has garnered significant recognition for her contributions to foodjournalism, restaurantcriticism, and magazine editorship, with a particular emphasis on awards from the James Beard Foundation that underscore her influence across key phases of her career. She has won a total of six James Beard Awards, reflecting her excellence in writing and multimedia endeavors related to cuisine and dining. These honors, spanning from her time as a newspaper critic to her role at Gourmet, affirm her role in elevating food writing to a respected journalistic art form.[73]Among her James Beard accolades, Reichl received awards for restaurant criticism in 1996 and 1998, during her tenure as the New York Times restaurant critic, where her incisive reviews shaped public perceptions of the city's culinary landscape. In 1994, she was honored with the James Beard Award for Newspaper Feature Writing (also referred to in some contexts as feature reporting) for her work at the Los Angeles Times, highlighting her ability to blend narrative storytelling with culinary insight. Additional wins came in 2009 for Magazine Feature Writing About Restaurants and/or Chefs and for Multimedia Food Programming, tied to her editorial innovations at Gourmet. She was also inducted into the James Beard Foundation's Who's Who of Food & Beverage in America in 1984, an early recognition of her rising prominence in the field. In 2024, the foundation presented her with the Lifetime Achievement Award, celebrating her enduring impact on American gastronomy and food media.[4][74][75]Beyond the James Beard Foundation, Reichl's achievements have been acknowledged by other prestigious organizations. In 2007, Adweek named her Editor of the Year for revitalizing Gourmet magazine and broadening its appeal to diverse audiences. That same year, she received the Missouri Honor Medal for Distinguished Service in Journalism from the Missouri School of Journalism, honoring her transformative work in food-related reporting.[76][77]
Personal Relationships and Family
Reichl's first marriage was to the artist Douglas Hollis in the early 1970s; the couple lived in a communal house in Berkeley, California, where Reichl began her career in food writing.[78] The marriage ended in divorce in the early 1980s amid an extramarital affair that Reichl later chronicled in her memoir Comfort Me with Apples.[79]In 1980, Reichl married Michael Singer, a former television news producer for CBS.[80] The couple has one son, Nick, born in 1989.[81] Reichl has described the challenges of motherhood during her high-profile career, including balancing restaurant reviewing with family life, an experience that deepened her appreciation for the emotional connections fostered through cooking and shared meals.[82]Since 2009, following the closure of Gourmet magazine, Reichl and Singer have resided full-time on a farm in Spencertown, New York, where she tends an extensive garden and participates in local food and community initiatives, such as farm stands and writers' gatherings.[70] As of November 2025, Reichl continues to reflect on family as a source of inspiration for her writing, noting in recent essays how her roles as wife and mother have shaped her narratives on resilience, home, and the sensory joys of daily life, while remaining active with public appearances and her newsletter.[83][84]