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Necklet

A necklet is a type of in chivalric orders, honors, and similar awards, consisting of a or worn on a or around the neck rather than suspended from the chest. Typically denoting mid-level ranks such as commander, necklets emerged in the from livery collars and became standardized in the for distinguished recipients, including officers and . They are distinct from sashes or breast stars and are often used in formal ceremonies across European and other traditions.

Definition and Characteristics

Etymology and Terminology

The term "necklet" derives from the combination of the word "," referring to the part of the body, and the "-let," indicating a small or ornamental version, with the earliest recorded use appearing in English in 1641 to denote a decorative item worn around the . In the context of and chivalric orders, "necklet" refers to the ribbon or cord suspending a around the , typically for mid-level recipients such as commanders, distinguishing it from more general ornamental uses like short necklaces. Key distinctions exist among related terms in this domain: a "necklet" or "neck ribbon" typically denotes the functional ribbon for badge suspension, often full-width and worn directly around the neck by men or as a bow by women, whereas a "" is a more elaborate, heavy or links symbolizing the highest ranks and worn over the shoulders. The term "" (or ""), originating from the Latin torquēs meaning "twisted thing" (from torquēre, "to twist"), describes ancient rigid neck rings of twisted metal, first prominent among peoples around 500 BCE as awards for and status symbols, predating modern order by millennia. A glossary of essential terms includes "riband," an archaic variant of "ribbon" (from Middle English riban, ultimately from Old French riban), referring to a wide, flat strip of fabric—typically 100 mm or more—used for sash suspension of grand crosses or stars in higher orders, as opposed to the narrower necklet. The "commander's cross" designates the enamel badge or cross awarded to the commander class in an order of chivalry, suspended from a neck riband or necklet and often accompanied by a breast star for distinction. These terms collectively underscore the precise hierarchy and display protocols in heraldic traditions.

Design Features and Wear

A necklet consists of a badge suspended from a short riband that is tied or buckled around the wearer's , positioning the badge at collarbone level for visibility and comfort. The riband is typically full-width, often 32-38 mm wide depending on the order (e.g., 50 mm for the British ), and of sufficient length to form a secure loop around the . The riband is commonly made of or moiré in the colors associated with the specific , providing a durable yet elegant finish that resists creasing. The badge itself is crafted from metal, often or , with accents; higher ranks may incorporate gems or intricate enamelwork to denote prestige, while the design ensures lightweight construction to avoid strain during prolonged wear. Necklets are worn over uniforms or formal attire, with the riband passed around the and the badge centered in front, adhering to conventions where the fall is straight rather than draped sideways. Protocols specify one full-size necklet at a time, with the senior taking precedence; for ceremonies, the hanging length may be adjusted slightly shorter for a more upright presentation, while everyday or miniature versions use narrower ribbons (about 16 mm) under the collar. Unlike broad sashes that drape from shoulder to hip or pinned breast stars, necklets offer a compact, non-obstructive design that permits greater mobility and is suited for active duties or less formal settings. This distinction ensures the decoration remains prominent yet practical, without interfering with arm movement or fit.

Historical Development

Ancient and Medieval Origins

The history of necklets as ornamental items worn around the neck dates back to prehistoric times, with evidence of simple necklaces made from shells, bones, stones, and teeth found in graves across , , and the , such as those from the era around 40,000 BCE. These early adornments likely served protective or decorative purposes. In ancient non-European civilizations, such as and around 2500 BCE, flexible necklaces of gold beads, , and emerged as status symbols and talismans. In , precursors to more structured necklets appeared in ancient societies during the , particularly in the form of —rigid neck rings typically crafted from twisted strands of gold or other metals. Dating from approximately 500 BCE to 100 CE, these ornaments were reserved for nobility and warriors, often awarded as rewards for battlefield achievements and serving as visible markers of high social status and martial prowess. not only signified wealth and rank but also carried spiritual connotations, frequently depicted on in artwork, underscoring their role in connecting the wearer to divine favor and tribal identity. Under influence, neck-worn ornaments evolved to include lunulae, crescent-shaped collars that bridged traditions with imperial adaptations, functioning as protective talismans or status symbols. Fibulae, brooch-like fasteners such as the variety prevalent from the third century CE, were used to secure cloaks around the neck and shoulders, denoting rank and service among legionaries and officers, though not strictly encircling necklets. By the early Christian period, these forms transitioned into pectoral crosses suspended on chains as necklets, adopted by and alike to signify spiritual authority and devotion; such crosses, worn from the fourth century onward, marked a shift toward religious symbolism while retaining the prestige of encircled adornment. Non-Western traditions also featured significant necklet developments; for instance, in , Xhosa and communities crafted beaded collars (ingqosha or idlothlo) from the early 19th century, using glass beads introduced via trade, for ceremonial, marital, and protective roles, with patterns conveying social messages. These built on older indigenous adornment practices. In the medieval era, necklets expanded in variety, including fur pieces like or stoles and worn by for warmth and opulence in colder climates, symbolizing and often featured in royal portraits from the onward. , elaborate chains of enameled metal links, served as badges of allegiance to feudal lords or monarchs. Exemplified by the Yorkist collar of the fifteenth century, these constructions—featuring alternating suns, roses, and a central —were bestowed upon retainers to publicly affirm loyalty during the Wars of the Roses, often weighing several ounces and valued highly for their craftsmanship. Chivalric orders contributed to this tradition, with the , founded in 1348 by III, incorporating early collar forms by the late fourteenth century as symbols of knightly honor and royal favor, though the distinctive blue garter remained the primary badge. The encircling design of these ancient and medieval necklets held profound cultural symbolism, representing binding oaths of , communal protection, and personal invulnerability. Torcs and collars alike evoked the idea of a sworn encircling the wearer, akin to an unbreakable with gods, rulers, or tribes, while their placement around the vulnerable suggested talismanic safeguarding against harm in battle or daily life.

Early Modern and Modern Evolution

During the , necklets evolved from rigid medieval forms toward more versatile jewelry designs, including flexible chains with pearls, gems, and cameos that emphasized personal elegance and were worn by both and emerging middle classes. stoles gained popularity as refined accessories, often in or fox, paired with formal attire for courtly display. In chivalric contexts, necklets shifted from cumbersome collars toward practical suspensions for . The French , established by on December 31, 1578, pioneered this change by featuring a —a Maltese cross with a white-enameled dove—suspended from a wide blue moiré with red borders, termed the "cordon bleu," worn around the neck by knights and commanders for routine occasions. This replaced the heavy ceremonial , composed of links with crowned "H" monograms and enameled flames, which was reserved for formal events and returned upon a member's death, thereby enhancing wearability while maintaining symbolic prestige. The design's influence spread, as the allowed greater mobility compared to rigid chains, aligning with the era's growing emphasis on courtly display without encumbrance. In the 17th and 18th centuries, neck ribbons solidified as a hallmark of ranks across chivalric orders, often denoting privileges for senior officials amid the expansion of multi-class systems under absolutist regimes. Post-1660s, French court protocols under standardized wear, mandating neck ribbons for commanders in orders like Saint-Louis (1693), where the badge hung from a , influencing similar practices in other monarchies. The British , revived by in 1725, exemplified this by requiring Knights to suspend their white-enameled from a crimson ribbon around the neck, distinguishing them from lower ranks who wore breast badges. Such standardization in absolutist courts like Versailles and Whitehall promoted uniformity in diplomatic and military attire, elevating the neck ribbon as a visible marker of and . The brought further adaptations in both and awards, with Victorian necklets featuring choker-style designs in velvet, , or cameos set with lockets of hair or gems, popular for their femininity and sentimentality. Fur necklets, such as mink or fox stoles, became essential for elite wardrobes, symbolizing prosperity during the era. In awards, badges—typically sashes for orders like the or St. Michael and St. George—were sometimes suspended from neck ribbons to afford recipients easier movement at ceremonies or receptions, reflecting practical adjustments to elaborate regalia. Concurrently, the enabled mass production of enamel badges through improved metal stamping and firing techniques, allowing firms in and to fabricate durable, colorful insignia in larger quantities for proliferating national orders. The 20th century saw necklets integrated into simplified decorations and everyday fashion, especially for veterans and modern styles, amid global conflicts and cultural shifts. Following , European nations streamlined awards for returning soldiers, favoring lightweight ribbon-suspended badges over ornate collars to commemorate service without ceremonial formality, as seen in the proliferation of victory and medals worn on neck or chest ribbons. necklets persisted into the as glamorous accessories but declined post-1960s with ethical concerns and synthetics. In international honors, the , established in 1966, features service ribbons in light blue denoting participation in missions, underscoring the ribbon's role in modern, accessible global recognition.

Types and Variations

By Rank and Order

In multi-grade orders of merit and , necklets serve as key for certain mid- and higher-tier ranks, particularly the class and above, symbolizing elevated status within the hierarchy. For instance, in the Légion d'honneur, the Commandeur rank employs a neck badge suspended from a moiré ribbon, larger than the chest-mounted badges of and Officier recipients, to denote greater distinction. This usage contrasts with lower ranks, where badges are pinned to the left breast, emphasizing the necklet's role in marking progression. Necklets are not extended to Grand Officier or Grand Croix ranks; the former uses a breast badge with a plaque, and the latter a as primary insignia. In British orders, such as the , neck badges on ribands are used for Companions, Commanders, and ranks, while Knights Grand Cross may wear ornate collars on formal occasions, underscoring the necklet's transitional position between basic and supreme honors. Chivalric orders like the classify neck ribbons by knightly status, with professed knights wearing black ribbons bearing the , and higher classes such as featuring white moiré ribbons with a behind the shield to signify seniority. orders often incorporate narrower ribbons for ranks, distinguishing them from broader sashes, while protocols govern combinations, such as limiting breast stars to the two senior ranks and positioning the neck badge centrally on the chest. Symbolic differentiation includes badge scale and embellishments, where commanders receive larger crosses or increased jewel counts—such as medallions in settings—compared to officers' simpler designs, reinforcing hierarchical symbolism without exhaustive enumeration. For female recipients, adaptations replace straight neck ribbons with shoulder bows or draped chain variants, preserving rank indicators like size or metal accents, as seen in Légion d'honneur Commandeur wear.

Regional and Cultural Adaptations

In European traditions, necklets for orders of often feature wide moiré silk in national colors, suspended from the neck to display -coated badges symbolizing and state symbols. For instance, the d'Honneur employs a moiré for its neck badge in higher classes like , with the featuring white and gold accents representing French republican values. Enamel work in these designs emphasizes intricate heraldic motifs, such as eagles or laurels, to denote prestige and lineage. In jewelry contexts, necklets vary by material and design across regions. Bead necklets, often using , , or gemstones, are common in African traditions, such as and beaded collars for ceremonial purposes. Fur necklets, like or stoles, prevailed in 19th- and 20th-century European fashion for warmth and adornment. Chain necklets, including rigid torques from ancient cultures, evolved into delicate gold or silver links in Victorian styles. Asian variations in ornamental necklets incorporate local materials, such as jade or silk threads in Chinese designs or enamel lotuses in Indian pieces. The Indian Bharat Ratna, while an award, features a peepal leaf medallion on a white neck ribbon, blending ceremonial and symbolic elements. Higher civilian honors like the Padma Vibhushan are worn as medallions on chest ribbons. In Japan, traditional necklets may include lacquered cords with paulownia motifs, though modern choker-style necklets draw from imperial aesthetics. In and Middle Eastern contexts, necklets frequently adopt collar-like integrated with regional jewelry elements, such as links or inlays, to align with royal and cultural norms. The Moroccan awards a grand for its highest class, composed of linked medallions with stars and inscriptions, worn around the neck to signify loyalty to the Alaouite throne. These designs merge forms with traditional adornments like , enhancing their role in ceremonial attire. Modern global influences in necklet design arise from post-colonial adaptations, where former colonies blend ribbon structures with motifs to assert . orders draw from models while incorporating local symbols like geometric patterns or beads, as seen in evolving insignias post-independence. has recognized related jewelry-making traditions, such as North metal engraving techniques used in decorative chains and medallions (inscribed 2023 by , , , and ), as to preserve these hybrid practices.

Usage in Awards

Military Decorations

Necklets in military contexts primarily serve to recognize acts of heroism, distinguished conduct, and leadership in , often featuring badges or stars suspended from ribbons worn around the neck to signify exceptional valor. In the United States, the , established in 1861, exemplifies this function as the nation's highest military award for combat bravery, with its star-shaped medallion suspended from a neck ribbon and positioned below the collar during . Similarly, the Commander's Degree of the , instituted in 1942, is awarded for exceptionally meritorious conduct in non-combat duties and worn as a neck decoration, though primarily for foreign in U.S. service. Uniform regulations strictly govern the wear of necklets to maintain order and precedence. In the U.S. Army, only one neck decoration, such as the , is authorized at a time, positioned with the under the and the medallion resting on the chest, taking precedence over all s and other badges; foreign neck awards, if approved, are limited similarly to avoid excess. British protocols for military honors, such as the Commander of the (Military Division) established in , allow one neck badge suspended from a rose-pink edged in pearl grey, worn under the during dress s, with precedence over miniature medals. For safety, necklets are removed during combat operations or field conditions, as full-dress elements are prohibited to prevent snagging or hindrance, with only bars worn instead. The use of necklets expanded during and , reflecting the scale of global conflict and the emergence of air and sea forces, where awards for aerial aces and naval commanders increased; for instance, approximately 3,000 Medals of Honor had been conferred across U.S. services by the end of (1945), many for actions in mechanized warfare. In the British forces, military divisions of orders like the (1886) saw heightened issuances for leadership in trench and naval engagements, though typically as breast badges, underscoring a broader trend toward visible distinctions for specialized roles. Post-1945, NATO efforts toward standardization influenced necklet usage among member nations, promoting interoperability in awards for joint operations; the Meritorious Service Medal, introduced in 2003, is a silver circular medal featuring the NATO emblem, suspended from a with white edges and silver and gold stripes; it is typically pinned to the chest on national uniforms, with limits to one such decoration. This reflects a shift toward unified criteria for multinational valor recognition, reducing variances in design and eligibility while preserving national protocols.

Civilian and Chivalric Honors

Necklets serve as prominent insignia in civilian honors, recognizing exceptional contributions to fields such as the arts, sciences, and public service. The Officer level of the Order of Australia, instituted in 1975, exemplifies this use by awarding a neck badge to individuals for distinguished service to the nation or humanity in non-military capacities. The badge, approximately 55 millimeters in diameter and crafted from gold-plated silver, features the order's emblem—a blue enamel circlet inscribed with "AUSTRALIA" and flanked by golden wattle sprigs—ensigned by the Crown of Saint Edward, and is suspended from a 16-millimeter ribbon worn around the neck. Female recipients in civilian attire may alternatively wear it as a shoulder badge suspended from a 38-millimeter ribbon tied in a bow. In chivalric contexts, necklets function as knights' badges within orders emphasizing ceremonial and traditions. The , established in 1917 to acknowledge services to the and , confers knighthoods at higher ranks where recipients wear a neck badge during investitures and formal events. For Knight Commanders () and Commanders (CBE), the badge—a cross patonce with an and the "For God and the Empire"—is suspended from a rose-pink ribbon around the neck, denoting rank and commitment to imperial and societal duties. Post- developments have expanded necklets to humanitarian awards and incorporated gender-inclusive protocols, broadening access beyond traditional male-dominated structures. For instance, the Medal, awarded since 1965 for contributions to international peace efforts, recognizes civilian and non-combat roles in global stability. Many chivalric orders, including the , now routinely appoint women as Dames with equivalent neck badges, reflecting protocols established in the late to promote in honors systems. Symbolically, necklets in these honors represent enduring societal values such as , , and communal welfare, distinct from prowess. Recipients enjoy lifetime privileges to wear the at state occasions, ceremonies, and formal attire, underscoring perpetual recognition of their contributions.

Notable Examples

European Orders

The French Légion d'Honneur, established in by Napoleon Bonaparte, features a commander's neck consisting of a five-armed white enamel cross with ball finials and laurel wreaths between the arms, suspended from a moiré measuring approximately 38 mm wide. The central bears a profile of the on the obverse and "HONNEUR ET PATRIE" on the reverse, symbolizing merit earned through in the revolutionary tradition of equality and excellence. In the system, the , created in for distinguished leadership in warfare, employs a standard neck badge of a and with a central crown and the "HEAVITRUSTIS" (Thou shalt reward the brave), suspended from a red and about 38 mm wide. The German , originally founded in 1740 by King Frederick II of for exceptional military achievement and revived in the 1950s as a civil order for sciences and arts, displays a neck badge formed as a blue-enameled with gold eagles in the angles and a central medallion inscribed "POUR LE MERITE," hung from a sky-blue watered ribbon roughly 55 mm wide. Among other notable European examples, the Spanish Royal and Distinguished Order of Charles III, instituted in 1771 by King Charles III to recognize civil and military merit, incorporates a neck badge as a white and blue enameled Maltese cross with Bourbon arms in the center and the motto "VIRTUTIS" on the reverse, suspended from a crown and red-and-white ribbon, where the enamel highlights royal insignia in crimson and gold accents. Similarly, the Italian Order of Merit of the Italian Republic, established in 1951 under the republican constitution, awards a grande ufficiale neck badge as a silver-gilt oval frame enclosing the Italian tricolor in red, white, and green enamel with a central star, measuring about 75 mm in height including the tower suspension, on a green and red ribbon denoting national service.

Non-European Awards

The U.S. , established in 1861 as the nation's highest military decoration for valor, features a ribbon, 1 3/8 inches wide, adorned with 13 white stars arranged in three chevrons to symbolize the original colonies. This ribbon suspends a star-shaped medal awarded for conspicuous gallantry and intrepidity at the risk of life above and beyond the call of duty in combat against an enemy of the . The design reflects post-Civil War traditions of recognition, evolving to include the standard by the mid-20th century for around the . In , the , instituted on January 2, 1954, by President , serves as the highest civilian honor for exceptional service or performance of the highest order in any field, irrespective of race, occupation, position, or gender. The award consists of a bronze medallion shaped like a peepal leaf, approximately 40 mm in diameter, with the emblem of on the obverse and "Bharat Ratna" inscribed on the reverse, suspended from a plain about 2 inches wide for wear around the neck. This simple yet symbolic design underscores the award's focus on national contribution over ornate military tradition. Japan's , founded on January 4, 1888, by , recognizes long-term to the and through its various classes, with the badge for higher ranks worn on a neck . The neck badge is a gilded octagonal form featuring a central mirror emblem surrounded by rays and motifs, suspended from a pale blue watered silk with yellow stripes near the edges, symbolizing imperial treasures from ancient lore. Established during the to modernize Japan's honors system, it emphasizes merit-based civil contributions rather than hereditary status. The Australian Order of Australia, created on February 14, 1975, by Queen Elizabeth II, honors distinguished service to the nation or humanity, with the Officer (AO) class featuring a neck insignia of gold-plated silver, 55 mm in diameter, depicting a blue-enamel circlet inscribed "AUSTRALIA" flanked by mimosa sprigs and topped by the Crown of Saint Edward. This badge hangs from a 38 mm royal blue ribbon embroidered with central golden mimosa blossoms, reflecting Australia's national flora and post-colonial identity in adapting British-style orders. The design prioritizes accessibility and relevance to contemporary Australian values. South Africa's , instituted on December 6, 2002, as the republic's highest honor, acknowledges exceptional achievements with international impact that advance national interests, divided into , gold, and bronze classes. The neck badge is a 70 mm by 60 mm medallion in or gold, portraying a against a rising sun on a black field within a beaded border, suspended from a 36 mm gold-colored ribbon with cream-colored rhinoceros motifs and beaded edges, drawing from ancient Mapungubwe Kingdom artifacts to evoke indigenous heritage. This post-apartheid creation integrates African symbolism into the necklet tradition for broad societal excellence.

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