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Notch Peak

Notch Peak is a prominent summit in the House Range of Millard County, west-central , , rising to an elevation of approximately 9,650 feet (2,944 m) and featuring a sheer west-facing cliff that drops more than 2,200 feet (670 m), recognized as one of the tallest pure carbonate cliffs in . Designated a by the on October 7, 1965, Notch Peak is celebrated for its exceptional geological value, including a massive, near-continuous sequence of weather-resistant and beds that form the cliff, as well as significant fossil assemblages from the and periods. The peak lies within the Notch Peak Wilderness Study Area, a 57,296-acre region managed by the , where it serves as a distinct landmark visible for up to 70 miles across the surrounding desert basin. Geologically, the mountain originated from ancient shallow marine deposits uplifted along a north-south fault during the Miocene extension of the , with subsequent —unhindered by weak layers or intense folding—sculpting its dramatic over millions of years. A intrusion dating to about 170 million years ago punctuates the base of the carbonate sequence, while the site's isolation and rugged terrain support unique ecosystems, including ancient bristlecone pines over 2,000 years old on higher ridges.

Geography

Location and Access

Notch Peak is situated in , within the House Range on the western flank of Sawtooth Mountain, approximately 45 miles west of . Its precise coordinates are 39°08′36″N 113°24′34″W, with an elevation of 9,658 feet (2,944 m) above NAVD 88 and a prominence of 3,419 feet (1,042 m). The peak lies in a remote section of the , bordered by Tule Valley to the west, characterized by arid and expansive valley floors with minimal human development. No services such as water, cell coverage, or gasoline stations are available in the immediate vicinity, emphasizing the area's isolation. Access to Notch Peak primarily involves unpaved roads through the House Range, starting from U.S. Highway 6/50 west of . From , travelers head west on U.S. Highway 6/50 for about 40 miles, then turn right onto the Notch Peak Loop Road (unpaved) just before mileage marker 46; after 4 miles north, turn left onto Miller Canyon Road for another 5 miles to the Sawtooth Canyon sign, where the route transitions to foot travel past a and stone roadblock. A four-wheel-drive or high-clearance is recommended due to rough, washboarded dirt roads that can become impassable during winter snow or spring mud from seasonal weather. The drive from takes approximately 3 hours, covering about 170 miles via south to U.S. Highway 6/50. No entry fees or permits are required for day use or at Notch Peak, but the site falls within the Notch Peak Wilderness Study Area, managed by the . Visitors must adhere to wilderness study area regulations, including keeping all mechanized vehicles on designated roads, practicing principles, and avoiding off-road travel to protect the fragile desert ecosystem.

Physical Description

Notch Peak features a distinctive summit characterized by a massive northwest-facing cliff that drops approximately 2,200 feet (670 m) vertically, ranking as the second-highest pure vertical drop in the United States after El Capitan in Yosemite National Park. The overall rise from the base in Tule Valley measures over 4,500 feet (1,370 m), creating a dramatic escarpment visible from up to 70 miles away in the remote west-central Utah landscape. This sheer face, composed of layered Cambrian carbonate rocks, dominates the peak's profile and contributes to its imposing presence in the arid Great Basin desert. At the top of the cliff lies the shallow groove or cleft known as the "notch," a subtle indentation that inspired the mountain's name and provides a defining visual marker against the otherwise uniform ridgeline. The summit itself reaches an elevation of approximately 9,650 feet (2,944 m), crowning a rugged massif within the House Range. The surrounding terrain is typified by the arid, isolated expanses of the House Range, where higher ridges support ancient bristlecone pines estimated to be 3,000 years old, their twisted forms clinging to rocky outcrops amid sparse vegetation. Lower valleys, including Tule Valley, exhibit minimal plant cover, emphasizing the peak's stark isolation in the , where it surpasses the height of many peaks despite lacking their forested surroundings.

Geology

Rock Formations and Composition

Notch Peak is primarily composed of - rocks, dating to approximately 500 million years ago, which form the bulk of its prominent cliffs and summit. These include s and s from the Notch Peak Formation, Orr Formation, and Weeks Formation, all deposited in shallow marine environments during the late to early periods. The Notch Peak Formation, the uppermost unit, consists of thick, massive beds of medium- to dark-gray and , with thicknesses varying from 368 to 557 meters regionally. The Notch Peak Formation is subdivided into three members: the basal Hellnmaria Member, characterized by chert-bearing limestone and dolomite with stromatolites and forming resistant cliffs; the thin Red Tops Member, composed of light brown, thin-bedded bioclastic lime grainstone with secondary gypsum and halite; and the upper Lava Dam Member, featuring stromatolitic and cherty limestone that contributes to the formation's durability. Underlying it, the Orr Formation comprises interbedded limestones, dolomites, and shales, with a massive limestone bench near the cliff's top, while the Weeks Formation includes silty limestones and shales, totaling around 1,200 feet thick. These layered carbonates exhibit horizontal bedding that enhances the peak's near-vertical walls, though the structure is prone to rockfall due to weathering. Intruding these ancient carbonates are Jurassic igneous rocks, including the approximately 170-million-year-old , which forms a prominent sill at the base of the cliff sequence and dikes such as the Notch Peak Dike, visible as darker linear features cutting through the lighter carbonates. This intrusion caused contact metamorphism, recrystallizing surrounding rocks and forming skarns rich in minerals like . Mineral resources in the area include traces of extracted from these skarns during mining efforts, as well as placer deposits in nearby drainages and surrounding regions of Millard County. The resistant nature of the carbonate layers, combined with the underlying intrusion, supports the peak's dramatic vertical drop of approximately 2,200 feet.

Geological History and Features

Notch Peak's geological history begins with the deposition of its primary rock layers during the Period approximately 500 million years ago, when shallow tropical seas covered the region now known as western Utah. These seas laid down thick sequences of limestones and dolomites, forming the Notch Peak, Orr, and Weeks Formations through the accumulation of marine sediments rich in from shelled organisms. Subsequent tectonic events shaped the peak's dramatic structure. During the Sevier Orogeny around 100 million years ago in the , compressional forces from the subduction of the along the western North American margin deformed the sedimentary layers, contributing to regional folding and thrusting that elevated and tilted the strata in the area of the future House Range. Later, in the epoch about 17-10 million years ago, extensional tectonics associated with the caused the House Range to uplift along high-angle normal faults, creating the steep western escarpment of Notch Peak as a fault-scarp remnant with a vertical drop of approximately 2,200 feet. This extension tilted the beds gently eastward while exposing them prominently on the west-facing cliff. Key geological features of Notch Peak include its position within the fault-bounded House Range, where the cliff exposes a continuous section of Cambrian carbonates, making it an exemplary display of ancient marine environments. A notable unique aspect is the interaction between these sedimentary rocks and a 170-million-year-old Jurassic granite intrusion, forming a sill at the base that locally metamorphosed the overlying limestones through contact heating, altering mineralogy and creating skarn deposits. The accessible layers also preserve a rich fossil record, including trilobites such as Symphysurina spp. and phosphatic brachiopods, providing insights into Cambrian marine life. In recognition of this outstanding carbonate cliff exposure, Notch Peak was designated a National Natural Landmark in 1976 by the National Park Service. Ongoing geological dynamics at Notch Peak are dominated by weathering and erosion processes that continue to sculpt the landscape. erosion, enhanced by the resistant nature of the massive and beds contrasted with weaker interbedded shales, maintains the cliff's near-vertical profile while periodically triggering rockfalls, posing hazards due to freeze-thaw cycles and seismic activity in the Basin and Range region. These processes highlight the peak's vulnerability to gradual retreat of the over time.

History

Exploration and Naming

The area encompassing Notch Peak and the House Range was traditionally utilized by the people, a Shoshonean-speaking group whose territory included the arid deserts and mountains of western , for seasonal hunting of small game such as rabbits and , as well as gathering pine nuts, seeds, roots, and berries. These small, mobile family bands adapted to the harsh environment southwest of the , moving frequently to exploit available resources, though no specific archaeological sites have been documented directly at the peak itself. European-American exploration of the region began in the mid-19th century amid U.S. government surveys of the . In 1859, Captain James H. Simpson of the U.S. Army Corps of Topographical Engineers led an expedition across western to identify potential wagon routes, during which he named the House Range for its stratified rock formations resembling "minarets, houses, and other structures." This naming persisted, appearing on topographic maps from the Geographical Survey in 1872 and 1873, which further documented the area's and topography as part of broader explorations west of the 100th meridian. Simpson's party, including Henry Engelmann, collected early fossil specimens in the vicinity, such as the Elrathia kingii at Antelope Spring, highlighting the region's paleontological potential. Notch Peak itself derives its name from the prominent shallow groove, or "notch," visible at the top of its nearly 3,000-foot western precipice, a feature noted during these early surveys of the House Range. The peak's distinctive profile, sometimes referred to as Sawtooth in early accounts, was mapped in greater detail during U.S. Geological Survey (USGS) efforts in the early 20th century, including work by Charles Doolittle Walcott in 1903 and 1905, who established the adjacent Notch Peak Formation as a key stratigraphic reference for Upper Cambrian rocks based on exposures at the site. These surveys built on 19th-century reconnaissance by Grove Karl Gilbert, who in 1875 measured Cambrian strata near the range and provided cross-sections of its block-faulted structure. Scientific recognition of Notch Peak's geological significance culminated in its designation as a on August 28, 1976, by the , honoring its exceptional exposures of Cambrian-to-Ordovician carbonate rocks and role as a type locality for important fossil-bearing formations. This status underscores the peak's value in understanding ancient marine environments, with its and cliffs preserving fossils like Elrathia kingii. The remote location of Notch Peak delayed widespread exploration until the late 20th century, when its visibility increased through hiking and climbing guides that popularized backcountry travel in Utah's West Desert.

Mining and Human Impact

The Notch Peak Mining District, located in the House Range of Millard County, Utah, saw its initial mineral discoveries in the early 1930s with placer gold found in Amasa Valley. This was followed by the identification of tungsten-bearing skarns in the 1940s, driven by wartime demand during World War II, leading to small-scale extraction operations primarily from contact zones around the Notch Peak granitic intrusive. Historical production included several hundred ounces of gold from placers and over 100,000 pounds of tungsten trioxide (WO₃) from skarn deposits, with a total estimated value of approximately $1.3 million at modern prices (as of 2018). Mining operations remained limited due to the area's remoteness and challenging , with no large-scale developments ever established. Key sites included the Amasa Valley placers for and tungsten mines such as the New Klondike, Brown Queen, and Queen, featuring pits, adits, and shafts but yielding only modest outputs—for instance, a defined of 775 short tons of averaging 0.47% WO₃ was identified at the Brown Queen. Traces of and tungsten persist in the region, but economic extraction has proven unviable given low concentrations and logistical barriers. Human impacts from these activities are minor, consisting primarily of surface scarring from digs, adits, and waste piles that have disturbed small portions of the landscape and potentially affected local soil and water quality in proximity to sites. Abandoned claims and structures, such as those in , dot the wilderness area, serving as remnants of mid-20th-century efforts. Following the cessation of significant operations by the mid-20th century—tungsten largely ended after 1956—the area has reverted to a more natural state, with no active large-scale reported. While some placer occurred intermittently into the late 20th century and a handful of claims remain active as of recent records, with 23 active as of 2025, the district's mineral resources are now assessed as having low to moderate potential under protections, prioritizing ecological recovery over extraction.

Ecology

Flora and Vegetation

The vegetation of Notch Peak, located within the House Range of west-central , is characterized by sparse, drought-adapted plant communities typical of the , transitioning from desert shrublands at lower elevations to coniferous woodlands at higher altitudes. Lower slopes and valleys feature dominant shrubs such as black sagebrush (Artemisia nova) and shadscale (Atriplex confertifolia), interspersed with (Chrysothamnus spp.) and seasonal wildflowers including sego lilies (), which bloom vibrantly in spring following winter moisture. These plants exhibit adaptations like deep root systems and reduced leaf surfaces to conserve water in the arid, rocky soils. On the mid-to-upper slopes, pinyon-juniper woodlands prevail, dominated by singleleaf pinyon pine () and Utah juniper (), forming open canopies that provide limited shade and stabilize the limestone terrain. At the highest ridges and eastern/northern slopes above approximately 2,800 meters, ancient Great Basin bristlecone pines () thrive in the harsh, wind-exposed, high-elevation environments, with some individuals exceeding 2,000 years in age due to their slow growth and resilience to extreme conditions like poor soils and low precipitation. Isolated patches of quaking aspen () also occur in moister drainages. The House Range, encompassing Notch Peak, supports a notable plant diversity with 373 vascular plant species across 60 families, reflecting the range's isolation that fosters . At least four rare or endemic taxa have been documented, including the House Range primrose (), a newly described species restricted to cool, shaded habitats, as well as Astragalus callithrix and . High-elevation specialists like snow buckwheat () and small onion () contribute to the subalpine near Notch Peak. Spring ephemeral blooming enhances seasonal diversity, with wildflowers capitalizing on brief wet periods before summer drought sets in. Vegetation faces pressures from environmental stressors, including overgrazing by that disturbs soils and reduces native cover, as well as increasing frequency exacerbated by . In the broader , warming temperatures and altered precipitation patterns threaten plant communities by intensifying , potentially impacting the of long-lived like bristlecone pines through reduced and heightened stress.

Fauna and Wildlife

The fauna of Notch Peak, located in the arid House Range of west-central , is characterized by species adapted to conditions, with low overall density due to limited water and vegetation. The area's sparse and pinyon-juniper habitats support a mix of mammals, , and reptiles, though amphibians are scarce owing to the lack of permanent water sources. Mammals in the region include (Odocoileus hemionus), which are abundant and use the benchlands for foraging, and (Antilocapra americana), numbering around 100 individuals in nearby units and relying on the open terrain for movement. Predators such as mountain lions (Puma concolor, also known as cougars) and coyotes (Canis latrans) inhabit the cliffs and canyons, preying on smaller herbivores. Smaller mammals like badgers (Taxidea taxus) and kit foxes (Vulpes macrotis) are present, along with rodents such as Ord's kangaroo rats (Dipodomys ordii), which thrive in the sandy soils and shrublands typical of . Birds are particularly prominent, with the steep cliffs providing nesting sites for raptors. Golden eagles (Aquila chrysaetos) reside year-round, utilizing the area as crucial for and hunting. Peregrine falcons (Falco peregrinus) nest on the rock faces, while bald eagles (Haliaeetus leucocephalus) winter in the vicinity; other raptors include ferruginous hawks (Buteo regalis), prairie falcons (Falco mexicanus), and red-tailed hawks (Buteo jamaicensis). Ground birds like chukar ( chukar) are common on the slopes, and migratory species such as long-billed curlews (Numenius americanus) and (Athene cunicularia) use the region as a corridor during seasonal movements. Reptiles dominate the herpetofauna, adapted to the hot, dry environment. Lizards such as the (Uta stansburiana) are widespread on rocky outcrops and sandy areas, exhibiting color polymorphism for and territorial behavior. Great Basin collared lizards (Crotaphytus bicinctores) occur in the desert shrublands of Millard County, actively foraging for insects. Snakes including gopher snakes (Pituophis catenifer) and western rattlesnakes (Crotalus oreganus) navigate the arid terrain, with the latter using venom to capture small mammals and lizards. Amphibians are limited, with occasional sightings of Great Basin spadefoot toads (Spea intermontana) during rare events, as the absence of consistent moisture restricts their distribution. Overall at Notch Peak remains low compared to wetter ecosystems, reflecting the harsh , but the site holds significant value as habitat without notable endemic species.

Recreation

Hiking and Backcountry Travel

The primary route to Notch Peak's summit begins at the Sawtooth Canyon trailhead and follows a well-defined path up the canyon for the initial miles before transitioning to less maintained terrain. This out-and-back hike covers approximately 7.5 miles round trip with about 2,600 feet of elevation gain, typically taking 4 to 6 hours for most fit hikers. The trail starts as class 1 walking through a scenic canyon with and occasional bristlecone pines, but steepens significantly in the final quarter-mile, requiring class 2 scrambling over rocky slopes to reach the summit ridge. Beyond the main ascent, backcountry travelers can explore unmaintained ridge routes extending from the summit saddle, offering opportunities for longer day hikes or multi-day backpacking trips across the House Range. These variations, such as loops incorporating nearby peaks like Sawtooth Mountain, involve class 2 to 3 terrain with bushwhacking and navigation, as no formal trails exist past the initial canyon section. The area's designation as a Wilderness Study Area emphasizes its remoteness, with low visitor traffic ensuring a high degree of solitude for extended outings. Hikers should prepare for arid desert conditions, carrying at least 4 liters of per person due to the complete absence of along the route. Summer temperatures can exceed 90°F (32°C), so early morning starts are recommended to avoid midday heat, while and fall provide milder weather from to . In winter, when accumulation is possible at higher elevations, snowshoes may be necessary for safer traversal of the upper slopes, though the route remains feasible without deep snow cover. High-clearance vehicles are advised for the rough 13-mile dirt road to the , and all waste must be packed out to preserve the pristine environment. The reward at the summit includes panoramic vistas encompassing the expansive Tule Valley to the west and distant ranges of the , with the dramatic cliff exposure adding to the scenic intensity.

Rock Climbing

Notch Peak's northwest face offers challenging big wall climbs and multi-pitch traditional routes, primarily graded between 5.10 and 5.13 on the Yosemite Decimal System. The cliff, rising over 3,000 feet in total but with key walls around 1,000 feet, demands advanced skills in and techniques. Notable routes include the Swiss Route, a 1,200-foot climb rated V 5.10+ A2 over 18 pitches, first ascended in 1986 by Thomas Koch and Peter Diener; , a free climb variant rated IV 5.12- over 10 pitches and approximately 1,000 feet, established ground-up in 2001 by Dave Shewell and ; and , a more moderate multi-pitch trad line with sections up to 5.8, first climbed in 1998 by Jason Keith and . Climbing history on the face began in the and gained momentum through the , with pioneering efforts by teams including Tommie Howe, who contributed to variations like on the northwest ridge in the early 2000s but built on earlier explorations. Routes from this era, such as the Swiss Route, are documented in the American Alpine Journal and highlight the commitment required, often involving multi-day pushes due to the remote desert setting. These ascents established Notch Peak as a serious objective, comparable in scale to desert big walls but with fewer repeats owing to its isolation. The primary challenges include the carbonate rock's variable quality, with loose blocks and strata prone to , particularly after rain or freeze-thaw cycles. Remote logistics necessitate bivouacs, as approaches can take hours, and routes often require hauling gear for sections or enduring runouts on variants. Climbers must prepare for self-rescue, given the lack of nearby support in the House Range. Access to the northwest face routes can be achieved by approaching from the base via a dirt road off the Notch Peak Loop (high-clearance vehicle recommended) or by to the from the east side and rappelling down to the start, sometimes involving 400-500 feet of descent. No permits are required for climbing on this Bureau of Land Management-managed land, but parties should carry ample water and gear for extended stays.

Paragliding and BASE Jumping

Paragliding at Notch Peak involves launching from the summit, providing pilots with an initial drop of approximately 2,200 feet to the valley floor below. This height, combined with rising thermals in the surrounding desert environment, allows for extended cross-country flights, often gliding over the expansive Tule Valley to the west. Optimal conditions for these flights typically occur during spring and fall, when moderate winds and active thermal cycles support safe and prolonged soaring without excessive turbulence. BASE jumping at Notch Peak centers on wingsuit and parachute descents from the prominent notch in the north face, which offers the second-tallest pure vertical drop in the United States at over 2,000 feet, surpassed only by . The site lies on public land, rendering jumps legal without requiring permits or notifications, though participants must navigate a remote, rugged approach involving a multi-hour hike to the exit point. Despite its appeal, the location demands precise execution due to its high-risk profile, including tight clearances along sheer rock walls and variable wind patterns that dictate exit choices, such as the north-facing option on calmer days. The site's dangers are underscored by multiple fatalities, including the 2013 death of experienced jumper Fernando Motta, who suffered a wingsuit collision with the cliff due to inadequate lift during a group jump. Another incident that year highlighted the site's volatility, contributing to at least two deaths within a 12-month period. Key hazards encompass sudden disrupting flight paths, potential from the unstable face, and limited, unforgiving landing zones in the remote floor, where recovery efforts often require assistance. Notch Peak draws a niche of advanced jumpers and wingsuit enthusiasts, who approach the site with self-imposed standards for safety and experience given the absence of formal or guided operations. Participants emphasize preparation, such as wind conditions and practicing sharp maneuvers, to mitigate the inherent challenges of this isolated venue.

Conservation

Protected Status

Notch Peak is protected primarily through its inclusion in the Notch Peak Wilderness Study Area (WSA), designated in June 1992 under Section 603 of the Federal Land Policy and Management Act of 1976, covering approximately 57,296 acres in western . The WSA is managed by the (BLM) Fillmore Field Office, which maintains its wilderness characteristics by prohibiting motorized and mechanized vehicle use to preserve natural conditions and opportunities for solitude. The boundaries of the WSA encompass Notch Peak and the surrounding slopes of the House Range, generally following natural features while respecting valid existing rights such as mining claims in the Notch Peak Mining District. These protections prevent new development, including roads and structures, thereby safeguarding the area's remote backcountry qualities and geological integrity.

Management and Challenges

The (BLM) Fillmore Field Office oversees the Notch Peak Wilderness Study Area (WSA), managing 57,296 acres to protect its wilderness characteristics in accordance with federal policy, including restrictions on motorized vehicle use and mechanical transport to minimize human impact. As part of this stewardship, the BLM monitors for through its statewide weeds and invasives program, which targets non-native plants that threaten native ecosystems across public lands, and addresses trail erosion via routine maintenance to sustain access while preserving fragile desert terrain. The agency also promotes visitor education on principles to encourage responsible recreation and reduce environmental degradation. Key challenges include illegal off-road vehicle use, which is prohibited in WSAs except on existing routes but persists as a threat to soil stability and vegetation, requiring ongoing enforcement efforts. BASE jumping from the peak's sheer cliffs has led to multiple fatalities, including two incidents in that highlighted risks in this remote setting and underscored the need for enhanced safety protocols. exacerbates vulnerabilities, such as in the arid region and stress on ancient bristlecone pines—some over 2,000 years old—through altered temperature regimes and heightened fire risk, as documented in ongoing monitoring of these ecosystems. Visitor guidelines emphasize preparation for extreme conditions, with seasonal fire restrictions often prohibiting open flames outside developed sites to prevent wildfires in dry vegetation; group sizes are generally limited to promote solitude, aligning with WSA standards that cap parties at 25 people in backcountry areas. Restoration efforts focus on rehabilitating historical mining scars from tungsten operations in the Notch Peak district, where the applies Utah's reclamation guidelines to stabilize disturbed sites and revegetate with . Looking ahead, the Notch Peak WSA faces potential elevation to full wilderness status through proposals like the America's Red Rock Wilderness Act (reintroduced in March 2025 and pending as of November 2025), which would designate about 72,000 acres to ensure permanent protection. Ongoing research supports geological preservation, including the area's 1987 nomination by the as a candidate for status to recognize its unique limestone formations and uplift history.

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