Simone Moro
Simone Moro (born 27 October 1967) is an Italian mountaineer, helicopter pilot, author, and motivational speaker renowned for pioneering winter ascents of four 8,000-metre peaks, including Shishapangma in 2005, Makalu in 2009, Gasherbrum II in 2011, and Nanga Parbat in 2016, making him the first climber to achieve this feat.[1][2][3] Born in Bergamo, Italy, Moro began climbing at age 13 in 1980 and quickly progressed to competitive sport climbing, completing over 30 routes graded 8a and 8b+ (5.13a to 5.14a) between 1987 and 1989 as a professional in the Italian Rock Climbing Federation.[1][4] Over his career, he has undertaken more than 70 expeditions to high-altitude peaks, summiting eight of the world's fourteen 8,000-metre mountains and reaching the summit of Mount Everest four times, including a solo south-to-north traverse in 2006.[1][5][6] His notable speed record includes climbing four peaks over 7,000 metres in 38 days.[1] Beyond mountaineering, Moro is a certified helicopter pilot with private (PPL) and commercial (CPL) licenses obtained in 69 days, specializing in high-altitude rescues, and has conducted numerous emergency operations in the Himalayas.[1][7] He has authored several books detailing his expeditions, such as Everest: In Vetta a un Sogno and 8000 Metri di Vita, and serves as a motivational speaker.[1] Moro has received prestigious awards, including the David A. Sowles Memorial Award from the American Alpine Club in 2002 for his rescue efforts, the Pierre de Coubertin Fair Play Award and Gold Medal for Civil Valor in 2003, and the Gold Medal of the Italian Alpine Club in 2016.[1] Additionally, he founded a school in Nepal serving 396 children and established a climbing school and medical dispensary in Pakistan to support local communities.[1]Early life and background
Childhood and family
Simone Moro was born on October 27, 1967, in Bergamo, a city in northern Italy nestled at the foothills of the Alps.[1][8] Growing up in this mountainous region, Moro spent his early years exploring the local landscape, which naturally fostered a connection to the outdoors through family outings in the nearby Bergamasque Alps and Dolomites.[8] Moro came from a middle-class family with no direct heritage in mountaineering, but one that emphasized resilience and self-reliance through active pursuits. His father, a competitive road cyclist and banker by profession, played a key role in encouraging physical activities and international-mindedness in the household.[9] This environment instilled in Moro an early appreciation for endurance sports like cycling, shaping his formative years before he discovered climbing.[10] The proximity of Bergamo to alpine terrain sparked Moro's initial interests in adventure sports, including cycling influenced by his father, and laid the groundwork for his later passion for the mountains. By age 13, these experiences led him to begin formal climbing training in the region.[11]Introduction to mountaineering
Simone Moro began his climbing journey at the age of 13 in the Bergamasque Alps near his hometown of Bergamo, Italy, where he initially explored rock climbing routes with his father, fostering a deep passion for the outdoors.[6][1] His early experiences focused on sport climbing and bouldering in the local Prealps, building foundational skills through challenging local crags that emphasized technique and endurance.[5][10] Moro's training progressed rapidly as he joined the Italian Rock Climbing Federation and immersed himself in the competitive sport climbing scene of the 1980s. By age 17, he participated in the inaugural Italian sport climbing competition in Bardonecchia in 1985, followed by national events that honed his abilities on routes up to 8b+ (5.14a) by the late 1980s.[10][12] At 20, he earned a spot on the Italian national sport climbing team, competing internationally and eventually serving as the team's coach from 1992 to 1996, which marked his shift toward broader alpinism.[6][4] Inspired by Italian mountaineering legends such as Reinhold Messner, whose books and lectures emphasized exploration and oxygen-free ascents, Moro developed an early ambition to conquer high-altitude peaks, undeterred by the absence of initial formal sponsorships or institutional support.[1] This motivation drove his transition to alpinism in the early 1990s, as he sought to apply his competitive discipline to more demanding, multi-day alpine routes beyond the Prealps.[5][10]Mountaineering career
Early expeditions and breakthroughs
Simone Moro's entry into elite mountaineering began with his first Himalayan expedition in 1992, when he attempted Mount Everest via the North Ridge, reaching 7,400 meters before turning back due to harsh conditions. This marked his transition from competitive sport climbing—where he had served as coach of the Italian national team from 1992 to 1996—to high-altitude alpinism, driven by a desire to tackle the world's most formidable peaks without supplemental oxygen. By the mid-1990s, Moro was establishing himself through bold, lightweight ascents in the Andes and Himalayas, prioritizing speed and technical difficulty over traditional siege-style tactics.[13][10] A pivotal breakthrough came in 1993, when Moro achieved the first winter ascent of Aconcagua (6,962 meters), completing the climb in just 13 hours via the Polish Route, demonstrating his affinity for extreme conditions. Later that year, he undertook a solo attempt on Makalu (8,485 meters) via the challenging Kukuczka Route, reaching 8,300 meters without oxygen before weather forced a retreat—a feat that highlighted his endurance and self-reliance at extreme altitude. These efforts garnered initial attention in Italian climbing circles, where Moro's dual expertise in sport routes (including 8b grades) and big walls began attracting modest sponsorships from outdoor brands eager to support emerging talent.[13][10] In 1995, Moro led an Italian-Polish team to Kangchenjunga (8,586 meters), advancing to 7,600 meters on the southwest face despite relentless storms; during the descent, the group discovered the remains of pioneering climber Wanda Rutkiewicz, missing since 1992, bringing international media focus to the expedition and solidifying Moro's reputation for resilience in tragedy-prone environments. The following year, he made a rapid solo ascent of Shishapangma via the normal route to the central summit (8,008 meters), without oxygen in approximately 20 hours, followed by a ski descent from 7,100 meters—an innovative blend of alpinism and ski-mountaineering that underscored his evolving style.[14][10][12] Moro's partnerships with renowned alpinists further propelled his career; in 1997, he summited Lhotse (8,516 meters) alongside Kazakh climber Anatoli Boukreev via the standard route, without oxygen, in a 17-hour push from Camp 2, fostering collaborations that emphasized alpine-style efficiency. By 2000, after summiting Everest (8,848 meters) with Denis Urubko via the South Col route, Moro had secured broader recognition within the Italian Alpine Club and international community, transitioning fully to professional expeditions supported by sponsors like The North Face. These early ventures laid the foundation for his later innovations, establishing him as a bridge between European sport climbing precision and Himalayan high-altitude daring.[13][10][6]Eight-thousander ascents
Simone Moro has summited eight of the fourteen eight-thousanders, achieving these climbs in alpine style with minimal logistical support, often without supplemental oxygen, which distinguishes his efforts from many commercial expeditions that rely on fixed ropes, Sherpa assistance, and bottled oxygen. His approach emphasizes speed, self-sufficiency, and technical proficiency, reflecting a purist philosophy that prioritizes the mountain's challenges over supported ascents. By 2025, Moro had undertaken over 70 expeditions worldwide, with his eight-thousander climbs spanning from 1996 to 2016, showcasing progressive innovation in high-altitude mountaineering. As of 2025, Moro continues winter expeditions, including attempts on remaining eight-thousanders like K2, without additional summits reported.[13] Moro's first eight-thousander summit was on Shishapangma's Central Summit in 1996, followed by rapid progress in the late 1990s and early 2000s on peaks like Lhotse and Everest. His partnership with Kazakh climber Denis Urubko became pivotal, enabling several record-breaking ascents, including fast pushes on Cho Oyu and Broad Peak. These climbs contrasted sharply with the siege-style tactics common on popular routes, as Moro frequently opted for lightweight teams and direct ascents to reduce environmental impact and enhance the raw experience of the terrain.[8] The pinnacle of Moro's eight-thousander career lies in his pioneering winter ascents, where he achieved four firsts—more than any other climber—on Shishapangma (2005), Makalu (2009), Gasherbrum II (2011), and Nanga Parbat (2016). These were accomplished without oxygen, in extreme cold averaging -40°C, and using alpine tactics that avoided pre-established camps or fixed lines, underscoring his expertise in managing frostbite risks, high winds, and short weather windows. Such feats not only expanded the boundaries of winter mountaineering but also highlighted the feasibility of oxygen-free climbs on the world's highest peaks, inspiring a shift toward lighter, more ethical practices amid growing overcrowding on routes like Everest's Southeast Ridge.[15] The following table summarizes Moro's eight-thousander summits, including dates, partners, routes, and notable details:| Peak | Date(s) | Partners | Route | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Shishapangma | October 1996 | Solo | Normal route (Central Summit) | First eight-thousander; skied descent from 7,100 m. First winter ascent on January 14, 2005, with Piotr Morawski, without oxygen.[16] |
| Lhotse | May 1997 | Anatoli Boukreev | Normal route (South Face) | Early collaboration with Boukreev; second summit in 2010 without oxygen.[13] |
| Everest | May 2000, May 2002, May 2006, May 2010 | Denis Urubko (2000); others | Southeast Ridge (2000, 2002, 2010); South-North Traverse (2006) | Four summits; 2006 traverse solo without oxygen; 2010 without oxygen. Total time on 2000 ascent: 16 hours from Camp 4.[8] |
| Cho Oyu | May 9, 2002 | Franco Nicolini, Mirco Mezzanotte | Normal route (Northwest Face) | Alpine style in 10 hours 30 minutes from Advanced Base Camp, without oxygen.[13] |
| Broad Peak | July 2003 | Iñaki Ochoa | Normal route | Approximately 29-hour push from Base Camp, without oxygen, alpine style.[17] |
| Makalu | February 9, 2009 | Denis Urubko | Normal route (Southeast Ridge) | First winter ascent, without oxygen; 11-hour summit day from Camp 3 amid high winds.[18] |
| Gasherbrum II | February 2, 2011 | Denis Urubko, Cory Richards | Normal route (Southwest Ridge) | First winter ascent, without oxygen; team endured avalanche and -40°C conditions.[19] |
| Nanga Parbat | February 26, 2016 | Alex Txikon, Ali Sadpara | Normal route (Kinshofer) | First complete winter ascent, without oxygen; 1,200m push in 14 hours from Camp 3.[20] |