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Simone Rocha

Simone Rocha is an fashion designer renowned for her eponymous label, which debuted at in 2010 and is celebrated for romantic, voluminous silhouettes drawing from , art, and femininity. Born in in 1986 to the acclaimed designer and his Irish wife Odette Gleeson, she grew up immersed in creativity, often experimenting with thrift-store finds like oversized jumpers and short skirts that foreshadowed her eclectic style. Rocha's education began with a BA in Fashion from the National College of Art and Design in in 2008, followed by an MA from in in 2010, where she studied under the influential Louise Wilson. Her early career was supported by Fashion East and , enabling her on-schedule debut that blended personal narrative with craftsmanship, emphasizing handwork, narrative-driven collections, and influences from history, nature, and her dual Irish-Asian heritage. The brand has expanded to five flagship stores in , , , and two in , with the store opening in 2024, and notable collaborations including in 2021 and in 2024. Rocha's accolades include the British Fashion Council's Emerging Talent in (2013), New Establishment Award (2014), British Womenswear Designer (2016 and 2024), Independent British Brand (2021), and Designer of the Year (2016), underscoring her impact on contemporary womenswear through a focus on longevity, artistry, and cultural storytelling.

Early life and education

Family and upbringing

Simone Rocha was born on 11 September 1986 in , . She grew up in a creative household immersed in the world of , as the daughter of renowned designer , who was born in to a family of Chinese and Portuguese descent, and her Irish mother, Odette Rocha, a key collaborator in the family business. The Rochas' home in was a hub of artistic activity, filled with works by notable figures and frequented by cultural icons such as and , fostering an environment where creativity was a daily norm rather than an exception. Rocha's early years were shaped by her family's deep ties to , with her father often involving her in his studio work; she learned to knit and as a child, creating accessories and trims that reflected the tactile aspects of . She shares a close bond with her siblings, brother Max Rocha, who pursued his own creative path and later entered the as a chef, and sister Zoe Rocha. The family's biannual travels to exposed her to her paternal heritage, including visits to her father's modest childhood home, blending Eastern and Western influences from an early age. Her Irish roots, drawn from her mother's countryside background, instilled a strong sense of and tradition, such as stories of "wren boys" in costumes, which contributed to her formative worldview and appreciation for narrative-driven creativity. This multicultural upbringing in , combining familial artistic immersion with cultural travels, laid the groundwork for her later pursuits in .

Academic background

Simone Rocha pursued her undergraduate studies in fashion at the National College of Art and Design (NCAD) in Dublin, Ireland, where she earned a Bachelor of Arts (BA) in Fashion in 2008. During her time at NCAD, Rocha developed foundational skills in design and textiles, drawing subtle inspiration from her family's creative environment while crafting her own independent projects. One notable achievement from her BA program was securing joint runner-up position in the 2008 Nokia Young Fashion Designer Award, which highlighted her emerging talent in conceptual garment construction. Following her undergraduate degree, Rocha advanced her education at Central Saint Martins (CSM) in London, completing a Master of Arts (MA) in Fashion in 2010. At CSM, she benefited from the rigorous mentorship of Louise Wilson, the influential course director of the MA Fashion program, whose guidance emphasized critical thinking and innovative storytelling in design. Rocha's graduate collection, presented as part of the 2010 CSM MA showcase, featured romantic yet structured silhouettes that refined her technical proficiency and prepared her for professional practice. This academic progression at NCAD and CSM equipped Rocha with a blend of Irish craftsmanship and London-based avant-garde techniques, shaping her distinctive approach to fashion.

Career

Brand launch and early years

Following her graduation with a Master of Arts in Fashion from Central Saint Martins in 2010, Simone Rocha launched her eponymous label that same year, marking her entry into the professional industry as an independent designer. The brand quickly gained traction through its focus on womenswear characterized by a blend of and unease, drawing from Rocha's Irish-Chinese heritage and artistic influences. Rocha made her debut on the official schedule at in September 2010, supported by the mentorship program Fashion East, presenting her Spring/Summer 2011 collection. Inspired by the sculptures of artist , the collection explored themes of family and intimacy through metal textiles and contrasting fabrics, featuring romantic voluminous silhouettes such as full skirts and layered tulle dresses adorned with girly motifs like pearls and flowers, juxtaposed with unsettling elements including Perspex accents and embroidered plastic for an edge of fragility and strength. This debut established Rocha's ability to reinterpret traditional in a modern, narrative-driven context, setting the foundation for her evolving aesthetic. In the initial years, Rocha's collections were distributed through key London retailers, including Dover Street Market, Browns Focus, and Selfridges, as well as international outlets like Colette in Paris and Net-a-Porter online, which helped build visibility and commercial viability without immediate reliance on her own retail space. By 2015, a significant breakthrough came with the opening of her first standalone store on Mount Street in London's Mayfair, a space designed to reflect her personal motifs with white walls, pink accents, and handmade sculptures, allowing greater control over brand presentation. The first five years (2010–2015) presented challenges typical of an emerging independent label, including navigating production, funding, and market positioning in a competitive scene, yet Rocha overcame these through rigorous mentorship from ' Louise Wilson, who emphasized resilience and innovation. This period solidified her signature aesthetic—voluminous forms, floral embellishments, and a tension between delicacy and durability—transforming the brand from an indie newcomer into a critically regarded force by consistently evolving themes of drawn from personal and cultural narratives.

Key collections and milestones

Simone Rocha's Spring/Summer 2011 collection marked her debut at as part of the Fashion East initiative, featuring voluminous silhouettes, sheer panels, and a palette of soft and nude tones that evoked a modern take on femininity. This presentation, held shortly after her graduation from in 2010, showcased her early interest in romantic, layered designs inspired by personal and cultural narratives. Later that year, in September 2011, Rocha presented her first standalone show for Spring/Summer 2012, securing her position on the official LFW schedule and highlighting her independent vision with intricate ruffles and historical allusions to traditions. By Fall/Winter 2016, Rocha's collections had evolved to emphasize fragility and opulence, with the season's featuring pearl-embellished garments in a "" theme that blended , , and oversized volumes to explore themes of rebirth and vulnerability. This show, staged at the , drew on historical references like Victorian attire while subverting them with playful, exaggerated , solidifying pearls as a signature motif symbolizing both delicacy and endurance. Throughout the mid-2010s, her thematic progressions deepened, consistently weaving motifs of —often fragile yet defiant—with historical elements such as folkloric rituals and literary tales, as seen in collections that contrasted sheer fabrics with structured influences to challenge traditional gender codes. A pivotal milestone came with celebrity endorsements that amplified her reach; frequently wore Rocha pieces, including a white brocade ensemble in 2015 and pearl-studded in 2024, while opted for embellished leather sandals in 2016, underscoring the designer's appeal to high-profile figures drawn to her blend of romance and edge. In 2025, Rocha marked her brand's 15-year milestone with the Autumn/Winter collection, presented in February at , which distilled personal memories like school days and the fable into twisted twin sets, cocoon coats, and delicate tulle, reflecting on themes of presence and pretense while balancing softness with resilience. That year, she presented a Fall 2025 menswear lineup that softened masculine archetypes through pearl accents, hooded jackets, and playful proportions, extending her exploration of fragility across genders.

Business expansion and recent developments

Simone Rocha's brand has expanded its physical retail presence internationally, beginning with the opening of its flagship store in at 93 Mount Street in 2015. Subsequent openings included a in on Ice House Street in July 2019, followed by a New York flagship at 71 Wooster Street in in October 2022. By 2025, the brand operated five profitable flagship stores, with two additional locations in at 24 South Road and 58 Songren Road, enhancing its global footprint. The collections have been distributed to approximately 190 stockists across 37 countries, supporting broader commercial reach without its own stores in markets like , where it relies on high-end retailers such as and . The brand's business has demonstrated steady growth, with reported turnover exceeding $20 million and profits surpassing £1 million as of 2024, driven in part by accessories accounting for 40 percent of sales and comprising the remaining 60 percent. Post-2020, digital sales have played a key role in recovery, with the brand emphasizing channels through its platform and owned stores to navigate pandemic disruptions. On sustainability, Rocha participated in initiatives like donating thousands of meters of deadstock fabric to emerging designers in , though the brand's overall practices have been critiqued for limited transparency in supply chains. In recent years, the brand marked its 15th anniversary in 2025, coinciding with the expansion into menswear in 2022 and the release of a book chronicling its history. The Fall 2025 collection, presented at , reflected on the label's evolution and contributed to sustained interest amid industry recovery. Similarly, previews of the Spring 2026 lineup, shown in September 2025, highlighted ongoing commercial vitality through thematic explorations that reinforced . Throughout the post-pandemic period, Rocha credited her owned retail network for providing stability during economic challenges, enabling the independent label to prosper as one of London's most successful.

Design philosophy and style

Influences and inspirations

Simone Rocha's design aesthetic is deeply rooted in her heritage, drawing extensively from and to explore themes of identity and . She frequently cites myths such as the and customs like wren boys and mummers as key inspirations, reflecting a that permeates her creative process. Additionally, works by playwright , particularly , have shaped her appreciation for cultural narratives tied to the [Aran Islands](/page/Aran Islands) and broader literary canon. Rocha's has not deterred her passion for writers and poets, whom she reads exclusively, viewing them as essential to her intellectual foundation. Family heritage plays a pivotal role in her inspirations, blending Irish and Cantonese elements from her parents, and Odette, whose creative environment exposed her to diverse cultural narratives from an early age. This dual background informs her interest in East Asian textiles and motifs, inherited through her father's roots, which subtly influence her exploration of hybrid identities. Artistically, Rocha is profoundly influenced by figures like , whose subversive sculptures and themes of resonate with her own ethos, as evidenced by her visits to Bourgeois's home and collaborations with the artist's foundation. Other artists, including , , , , , and of , contribute to her vision of multifaceted, edgy drawn from historical periods like the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Rocha's inspirations also encompass psychological dimensions, such as and , which she attributes to personal experiences like during in , evoking themes of emotional fragility. Her core philosophy centers on historical and contemporary , integrated into women's lives through narratives of strength and . The birth of her daughter in 2015 marked an evolution in her influences, enhancing her focus on and making her work more introspective and guard-down authentic, a shift that has deepened with motherhood's demands on her time and perspective. By her brand's 15-year milestone in 2025, these personal evolutions have layered her inspirations with a subversive edge, reflecting broader societal challenges while maintaining a commitment to character-driven expression. This continued in her Autumn/Winter 2025 collection, which drew from her "" school years and the fable to explore childhood nostalgia and rebellious defiance, and her Spring/Summer 2026 collection, inspired by the "disgruntled " archetype and the stages of girlhood, blending romance with provocation.

Signature elements and motifs

Simone Rocha's design language is characterized by voluminous silhouettes that create dramatic, expansive forms, often achieved through layered constructions and exaggerated proportions. These shapes emphasize a sense of movement and presence, drawing from a blend of historical grandeur and contemporary exaggeration. Central to her aesthetic are pearl embellishments, which appear as recurring decorative motifs, adorning garments, accessories, and even structural elements like collars to evoke a tactile, luminous . and fabrics further define her work, employed in translucent, ethereal layers that contrast fragility with robustness, underpinning a romantic yet subversive femininity that oscillates between innocence and edge. This duality manifests in designs that appear delicate but possess an underlying strength, challenging traditional notions of softness. Rocha's motifs include bows and ruffles, which add playful, ornate textures to her pieces, often scaled up for visual impact and integrated into unexpected areas like harnesses or edges. She incorporates hybrid menswear-womenswear elements, blending tailored structures with feminine ornamentation to create versatile, gender-fluid silhouettes that merge masculine tailoring with soft, decorative details. Playful distortions of traditional and Western appear through reimagined forms, such as collars encrusted with pearls or stuffed volumes evoking folklore-inspired padding, subverting conventional silhouettes into something whimsical and modern. These elements stem briefly from her cultural influences, transforming personal and heritage-inspired ideas into tangible design features. In the 2020s, Rocha's signatures have evolved to incorporate personal symbols, such as family heirlooms and heritage motifs, infusing collections with intimate references like baptismal cloths or Far Eastern legacies from her father's background, rendered in luxurious, enduring materials to create pieces intended as future heirlooms. This progression maintains her core romantic subversion while deepening emotional resonance through autobiographical layers.

Awards and recognition

Major awards

Simone Rocha's career has been marked by several prestigious awards that highlight her innovative contributions to womenswear design. In 2013, she received the Emerging Talent in Womenswear award at the British Fashion Awards, recognizing her debut collection's blend of and craftsmanship, which propelled her from graduate to a rising industry figure. This accolade, presented by the , provided crucial validation and increased visibility, leading to expanded retail opportunities and investor interest early in her brand's lifecycle. In 2014, Rocha received the New Award at the , recognizing a womenswear or menswear designer taking the global industry by storm. Building on this momentum, Rocha was named Harper's Bazaar's Young Designer of the Year in 2014, an honor that celebrated her ability to infuse with contemporary in her collections. The award, announced at a high-profile ceremony, underscored her rapid ascent and helped secure international press coverage, fostering partnerships that bolstered her brand's global presence. By 2016, Rocha achieved a career-defining milestone with the ' Womenswear Designer of the Year, awarded for her Spring/Summer 2016 collection's ethereal volumes and pearl motifs, which redefined luxury . This win, the council's highest honor in the category, solidified her status as a leading British designer and attracted high-end collaborations, significantly enhancing her commercial footprint. In the same year, she also claimed Designer of the Year, further affirming her influence on modern narratives through sustainable and sculptural designs. These dual recognitions amplified her , drawing celebrity endorsements and expanding her beyond niche fashion circles. In 2021, Rocha was awarded the Independent British Brand at the British Fashion Awards, acknowledging her brand's innovative and independent contributions to the industry. Rocha's return to the British Fashion Awards in 2024, where she won Womenswear Designer of the Year for the second time, highlighted her enduring impact amid evolving industry trends, particularly her Fall/Winter 2024 collection's exploration of fragility and strength. This repeat victory, amid a competitive field, reinforced her role as a cultural innovator and boosted her brand's valuation, enabling further investments in ethical production practices. Most recently, in 2025, Rocha was honored with the Style Awards' Designer of the Year, acknowledging her consistent evolution and boundary-pushing aesthetics in a post-pandemic landscape. Presented at the annual ceremony, this emphasized her brand's resilience and inspirational role for emerging talents, catalyzing new creative projects and affirming her legacy as a pivotal figure in design.

Nominations and critical acclaim

Rocha was selected as a finalist for the 2014 Prize for Young Fashion Designers, recognizing her as one of 12 emerging talents from around the world. In 2025, she received a for Womenswear Designer of the Year at the British Fashion Awards, alongside designers such as and . Critics have frequently praised Rocha for her subversive take on , blending romantic, ornate elements with underlying tension and defiance. described her 2022 exhibition "" as a "sublime, subversive ode" that challenges conventional notions of womanhood through and . The Guardian highlighted her ultra-feminine styles as carrying "a layer of defiance," noting how they subvert traditional while appealing broadly. This perspective has been echoed in reviews emphasizing her ability to infuse unease into delicate motifs, redefining with emotional depth. Her 2025 collections, marking the 15th anniversary of her brand, garnered significant acclaim for their playful yet introspective exploration of femininity and heritage. The Guardian called her London Fashion Week show a highlight, celebrating its bold reinterpretation of personal and cultural narratives. W Magazine lauded the Fall 2025 presentation for transforming preppy staples into whimsical, experimental pieces that underscore her enduring innovation. Rocha's broader influence is evident in her inclusion in the Business of Fashion's BoF 500 list, which recognizes the 500 most influential figures in global fashion, where she is noted for her forward-thinking feminine collections. Her work has been featured in prominent fashion publications and monographs, including a 2024 Rizzoli book that delves into her creative process and inspirations. Peers and industry observers credit her with shaping contemporary womenswear, influencing a generation of designers through her emotive, motif-driven approach that bridges heritage and modernity.

Collaborations

High-street and accessible partnerships

Simone Rocha has pursued several high-street partnerships to make her distinctive aesthetic more accessible to a broader audience, adapting signature elements such as pearl embellishments and romantic femininity into affordable collections. These collaborations emphasize inclusivity across genders and ages, allowing fans to engage with her without the premium of her core line. In 2014, Rocha collaborated with on a denim-focused capsule collection that reinterpreted classic with her playful and rebellious aesthetic. The line included 14 pieces such as ruffled , structured dresses, and feminine silhouettes in , , and , blending tailored fits with unexpected details like mesh and accents. Launched in October 2014, it marked her first foray into and aimed to infuse high-street with luxury craftsmanship, priced accessibly to appeal to a wider audience. One of Rocha's most notable high-street endeavors was her 2021 collaboration with H&M, which launched on March 11 and marked the designer's 10th anniversary by reworking archival motifs into a comprehensive range. The collection spanned womenswear with pearl-detailed dresses, skirts, and ruffled trenches; menswear featuring Aran knits, brogues, and tailored coats; and childrenswear including miniature poplin dresses and cashmere cardigans with pearlescent buttons, all crafted from bespoke fabrics to maintain quality. Priced from £7.99 for accessories to £149.99 for key pieces, it democratized Rocha's hybrid of toughness and delicacy, drawing from influences like Irish heritage and modern femininity. The drop achieved immediate commercial success, selling out almost entirely within the first hour of release, with only a few items remaining by midday, underscoring the public's enthusiasm for her accessible adaptations. Earlier in her career, Rocha partnered with in 2011 for a capsule collection that served as an entry-level introduction to her tailored yet playful style, launched on September 15 across select stores and online. Comprising two shirts, two coats, one , and one pair of smart in a monochrome palette, the line incorporated feminine twists like pink and black mesh sleeves on structured wool pieces, blending masculine silhouettes with unexpected textures at affordable prices. This collaboration provided an accessible gateway for younger consumers to experience Rocha's emerging aesthetic, aligning with Topshop's focus on emerging talent and broadening her visibility beyond luxury weeks. Rocha's ongoing partnership with , initiated in 2023 and extending through multiple drops to Spring 2026, has transformed the brand's utilitarian footwear into embellished, couture-inspired staples, emphasizing comfort alongside her romantic motifs. Key releases include platform with pearl and crystal details, the Siren Clog in sculptural forms, and the sneaker—a chunky trail style in black and oyster adorned with playful embellishments—priced around $225. The Spring 2026 installment, unveiled at on September 21, 2025, introduced six styles such as the $300 Ballerina Platform in black and oyster with ballet-inspired chisel toes and wedge heels, alongside updated classics in pink rose hues. These collaborations have garnered significant commercial traction through celebrity endorsements from figures like and , boosting ' visibility in high fashion circles and popularizing "romantic " as a trendy hybrid of everyday wear and luxury detailing.

Luxury and couture projects

In 2018, Rocha participated in 's Genius project with the "4 Simone Rocha" collection, presented during on February 20, 2019. The line reimagined 's technical outerwear through her lens of romantic functionality, featuring pieces like hooded trenches with floral , pearl-embellished puffer jackets, and exaggerated silhouettes in signature colors of red, pink, ivory, black, and pearl. Drawing from her and themes of protection and , the collaboration merged high-performance fabrics with poetic details, emphasizing practicality in a sophisticated, subversive manner. In 2024, Simone Rocha served as the guest couturier for Jean Paul Gaultier's Spring/Summer collection, marking a significant high-end collaboration that blended her distinctive aesthetic with the house's iconic legacy. The show, presented during Paris Couture Week on January 24, 2024, featured Rocha's signature motifs such as exaggerated bows, voluminous silhouettes, and ruffled gowns, reinterpreted through Gaultier's conical corsetry and body-conscious forms to emphasize sensuality and the female figure. Elements like backless ballgowns in nude tones and creations with dramatic hips and waists highlighted a dialogue between Rocha's romantic subversion and Gaultier's provocative tailoring, creating pieces intended to feel like a "second skin." This couture project extended Rocha's exploration of archival influences, drawing from Gaultier's designs while infusing her own poetic , as seen in the collection's focus on intention and the body's contours. The collaboration underscored Rocha's ability to elevate luxury through artistic integration, with garments that merged historical references—such as Gaultier's work with dancer Régine Chopinot—with contemporary couture craftsmanship. Complementing her couture endeavors, Rocha released her first comprehensive , Simone Rocha, in 2024, published by Rizzoli to archive a decade of her design practice. Structured in four sections with poetic texts, interviews from figures like and , and essays including contributions from her parents, the book chronicles her collections through high-quality photography and thematic explorations. It provides personal insights into Rocha's design process, revealing a reflective, decisive approach that distills heritage and innovation into cohesive narratives, while analyzing how her work evolves through printed matter and moment-specific inspirations. Described as an unconventional tome that reads like a of her creative journey, it offers a window into the behind-the-scenes evolution of her aesthetic without delving into exhaustive timelines.

Personal life

Family

Simone Rocha is married to McLoughlin, a and photographer with whom she frequently collaborates on creative projects, including films for her collections. The couple, both of heritage, welcomed their first child, daughter Ming McLoughlin, on November 18, 2015. Their second child, daughter Noah Roses, was born in May 2021. Motherhood has intersected with Rocha's professional life by providing occasional creative inspirations, notably influencing her Spring/Summer 2022 collection, which drew from postpartum rituals like nursing and baby teeth. She also maintains close ties with her younger brother, Max Rocha, a , through joint endeavors such as curating family dinners and supporting his restaurant, Café Cecilia, which has become a hub for their shared passion for craft. This adult family dynamic contrasts with her childhood in a household centered on her parents' design legacy, emphasizing collaborative partnerships in her personal and creative spheres.

Residence and daily life

Simone Rocha resides in , , where she shares a home with her husband, Eoin McLoughlin, and their two children, Valentine and Noah Roses. This neighborhood, known for its and creative community, aligns with her preference for a low-profile away from the spotlight. Her daily routine reflects a careful balance between family responsibilities, time in her nearby studios, and periodic travel for fashion shows in cities like and . Rocha values privacy, often shielding personal details from public view while incorporating quiet family moments, such as swimming outings when her schedule permits. In her leisure time, Rocha nurtures interests in art, drawing inspiration from figures like and , and maintains a collection of books that underscores her passion for reading. She sustains her Irish roots through regular visits to and engagement with the island's cultural traditions, which provide a grounding contrast to her London-based life.

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