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Ulzzang

Ulzzang (Korean: 얼짱, RR: eoljjang; literally "best face" or "good looks") is a South Korean internet slang term referring to young people, typically teenagers and young adults, who gain online popularity for their attractive appearance through selfies and styled photos on social media platforms. The term emphasizes a cultural focus on visual aesthetics in digital communities, where individuals are often voted or self-promoted as beauty ideals.^[1] The concept originated in the late 1990s with the advent of personal web portals like Cyworld and affordable digital cameras, enabling widespread selfie culture known as "selca." It gained prominence in the early 2000s through online forums and ranking sites.^[2] Ulzzang style features a youthful, doll-like look with pale, clear skin; large eyes enhanced by circle lenses and aegyo-sal; a V-line jaw; and dewy, natural makeup. Fashion involves casual, cute outfits like oversized clothing and minimal accessories, aligning with K-beauty standards. This aesthetic has influenced global beauty trends, especially in Asia, and launched careers in entertainment and beyond, including webtoon artist Park Tae-jun, who rose to fame as an ulzzang in the 2010s. As of 2025, ulzzang continues to impact Korean fashion and social media.^[3]^[4]

Etymology and Origins

Term Definition

Ulzzang (Korean: 얼짱), also romanized as eoljjang or uljjang, is a South Korean slang term formed as a portmanteau of "eol" (얼), the initial syllable of "eolgul" (얼굴) meaning "face," and "jjang" (짱), a colloquial expression denoting "the best" or "genius."^[5] This linguistic combination literally translates to "best face" or "face genius," highlighting an emphasis on superior facial aesthetics within Korean internet culture.^[6] The term functions as a noun to describe ordinary individuals, particularly young people and often women, who achieve widespread online recognition for embodying an idealized form of beauty through carefully curated self-photography and personal styling efforts.^[7] Unlike professional entertainers such as K-pop idols, who undergo formal training and industry grooming, ulzzang status is typically self-attained by non-celebrities via participation in online photo contests or social media sharing on platforms like Cyworld, where visual appeal drives popularity.^[7] This distinction underscores ulzzang as a grassroots phenomenon rooted in amateur aesthetic presentation rather than institutionalized performance.^[6] Core to the ulzzang ideal are facial traits aligned with South Korean beauty standards, including large eyes, a V-shaped jawline, a high nose bridge, fair skin, and overall symmetrical proportions that convey youthful innocence and flawlessness.^[8] These features are often enhanced through makeup, lighting, and photo editing to project an approachable yet aspirational "doll-like" charm, setting ulzzang apart from broader or more generic attractiveness descriptors by focusing on photogenic perfection.^[7]

Early Online Emergence

The term ulzzang first emerged in the late 1990s among South Korean high school students, particularly in urban areas like Gangnam and Seocho, as slang denoting individuals renowned for their attractive appearances.^[9]^[10] Early notable examples include the Eun-Kwang Ulzzang Trio, high school girls from Eun-gwang Girls' High School who gained recognition around 2000 for their looks and later transitioned into modeling and acting.^[10] By 1999-2000, with the founding of major Korean bulletin board systems (BBS) such as DC Inside, the concept gained traction online through anonymous user posts featuring self-photographs in informal "best face" contests, where peers commented and ranked submissions based on visual appeal.^[9] These early threads on DC Inside and similar BBS platforms emphasized facial features, fostering a competitive environment that highlighted natural or enhanced beauty among participants.^[10] A pivotal development occurred in 2001 with the rise of Cyworld, South Korea's pioneering social networking service launched in 1999, which facilitated the first structured "ulzzang selection" threads.^[9] Users, primarily teenagers, uploaded anonymous selcas (self-portraits) to dedicated mini-hompy spaces or emerging ulzzang cafes on the platform, where community voting determined winners and amplified visibility through shares and discussions.^[11] This marked a shift from scattered BBS posts to organized online events, with participants often competing in categories that initially included both males and females, though female entries quickly dominated due to cultural emphases on gendered beauty standards.^[10] The widespread adoption of affordable digital cameras and early camera-equipped mobile phones around 2000-2002 played a crucial role in enabling this phenomenon, allowing urban South Korean youth—predominantly teenagers aged 13-19—to easily capture, edit, and upload high-quality images without professional equipment.^[11] By 2004, a survey indicated that over 85% of high school girls actively used mobile phones to maintain social relationships, including for capturing and sharing selcas in ulzzang contexts, reflecting the demographic's tech-savvy nature and the subculture's concentration among city-dwelling adolescents seeking online validation.^[11] These tools democratized participation, transforming ulzzang from niche schoolyard acclaim to a burgeoning internet trend centered on peer-driven aesthetics.^[9]

Historical Development

2000s Internet Subculture

By the mid-2000s, Ulzzang had evolved from its nascent forum roots into a vibrant internet subculture in South Korea, primarily among teenagers sharing self-portraits on platforms such as Naver Cafe, Daum Cafe, Cyworld, and Haduri. These sites hosted dedicated Ulzzang galleries where users uploaded "sel-ka" (self-camera) photos emphasizing idealized features like large eyes and sharp jawlines, often competing in fan-voted rankings reminiscent of Western sites like Hot or Not.^[6]^[12] Personal blogs further amplified this growth, allowing anonymous participants to curate portfolios that blended everyday fashion with aspirational aesthetics, fostering a sense of communal validation through likes and comments.^[12] Community practices centered on enhancing natural appearances to achieve the "best face" ideal, including extensive photo editing to create flawless, doll-like images and participation in online contests such as the Korea National Ulzzang Contest, where monthly or periodic "Ulzzang of the Month" selections highlighted top vote-getters. Forums and cafes served as hubs for sharing beauty tips, from makeup layering to styling layered clothing, encouraging users aged 13 to 20 to experiment and refine their looks collaboratively.^[6]^[12] These rituals not only promoted skill-sharing but also built a DIY ethos distinct from professional modeling.^[6] Early influencers emerged as archetypes of "Ulzzang girls," often anonymous posters who attained semi-celebrity status within online circles without disclosing personal identities, inspiring waves of imitation through their curated feeds. Notable examples included the Eun-Kwang Ulzzang Trio—comprising Song Hye-kyo, Lee Jin, and Han Hye-jin—who gained prominence around 2000 via Haduri uploads, and the Lotteria Ulzzangs like Nam Sang-mi and Koo Hye-sun, whose viral photos led to scouting by agencies.^[12]^[6] The subculture's social dynamics revolved around vote-based hierarchies, where high rankings in galleries or contests elevated users to "top Ulzzang" status, sparking both inspirational emulation and intense competition among predominantly teen participants. This system, peaking in popularity by 2004 when "Ulzzang" became one of Korea's top search terms, created a meritocracy of beauty that motivated self-improvement while occasionally fueling rivalries in closed online groups.^[6]^[2]

2010s Mainstream Integration

During the 2010s, Ulzzang shifted from a niche online phenomenon to a core element of mainstream K-beauty, particularly between 2010 and 2015, as brands adopted its emphasis on youthful, flawless features in product development and advertising. Etude House, a prominent K-beauty label under Amorepacific, exemplified this integration through campaigns featuring K-pop idols like Krystal and Sulli, whose girly, coquette aesthetics aligned closely with Ulzzang's natural yet enhanced look of pale skin, large eyes, and subtle makeup.^[13] This commercialization accelerated with the proliferation of social media platforms such as Instagram, where users posted Ulzzang-inspired selfies, amplifying the trend's visibility and encouraging everyday adoption among Korean youth influenced by K-pop idols.^[14] Notable events included the 2015 launch of the Snow app by Camp Mobile, a mobile tool offering animated filters and effects that idealized facial features—such as enlarged eyes and smoothed skin—to emulate the "best face" (ulzzang) aesthetic, quickly garnering over 40 million downloads in Asia.^[15] Influencers on platforms like YouTube further bridged this to professional modeling, with many amateur Ulzzang enthusiasts transitioning into brand ambassadorships via tutorial videos and collaborations. The trend spurred demand for Ulzzang-aligned products like cushions and tints, contributing to the explosive growth of the K-beauty sector, which reached a global market value of $9.3 billion by 2018.^[16] Demographically, Ulzzang expanded from primarily Korean youth to international audiences across East, South, and Southeast Asia, facilitated by accessible YouTube tutorials that democratized the style for global participants amid the rising influence of beauty influencers in the 2010s.^[14]^[17]

Core Characteristics

Fashion and Styling Elements

The Ulzzang fashion style emphasizes a cute, youthful aesthetic through layered, feminine outfits that blend comfort with trendiness, often incorporating pastel-colored skirts, oversized sweaters, and knee-high socks to create a doll-like, approachable silhouette.^[18] ^[19] These elements draw from South Korean casual wear, with affordable Korean brands providing versatile pieces such as soft knits and basic tees that align with the subculture's focus on effortless everyday appeal.^[20] Accessories play a key role in enhancing the Ulzzang look's emphasis on enlarged, innocent features and subtle elegance, including circle lenses to create the illusion of larger eyes, headbands for a playful touch, and minimalist jewelry like simple earrings or necklaces that complement the overall fresh, natural vibe.^[14] Seasonal adaptations maintain the core cuteness while adjusting for weather, with summer outfits favoring lightweight dresses, flowy skirts, and wide-brim hats for a breezy, sun-protected style, and winter looks shifting to cozy knits, layered scarves, and ankle boots paired with tights for warmth without sacrificing femininity. Over time, Ulzzang styling evolved from grassroots, DIY thrift finds in the 2000s—rooted in early online communities sharing personalized, budget-conscious looks—to more accessible fast fashion integrations by the 2010s, as brands popularized ready-to-wear items that democratized the aesthetic for wider youth adoption.^[21] ^[20]

Makeup and Beauty Techniques

Ulzzang makeup emphasizes a natural yet enhanced facial appearance, prioritizing subtle enhancements to achieve an idealized, youthful look. A foundational element is the use of BB cream, which provides a lightweight, sheer coverage that evens out skin tone while allowing the natural complexion to shine through, often selected for its hydrating and SPF properties to maintain a flawless, no-makeup vibe.^[22] Double eyelid creation is a hallmark technique, commonly achieved non-surgically with adhesive tape or glue to form a defined crease, enlarging the eyes and contributing to the wide-eyed aesthetic central to Ulzzang standards. This method draws from broader Korean beauty ideals where larger, more expressive eyes symbolize attractiveness and youth. Aegyo-sal highlighting focuses on the under-eye area, using a soft taupe shade to shade the natural crease while smiling, followed by a pearlescent highlighter above it for dimension, creating the illusion of puffy, youthful "love bands" that evoke a bright, doe-eyed expression. Products like neutral eyeshadows from M.A.C. or cream sticks from Pixi are recommended for blending to ensure a natural fade, avoiding harsh lines.^[23] Gradient lips, or the ombré effect, involve applying a vibrant pink or coral tint to the center of the lips and blending outward with a lighter shade or bare skin, resulting in a fresh, bitten-lip appearance that enhances facial innocence without bold maturity. This trend, popularized through Korean media, uses lip tints for long-lasting, subtle color.^[24] Tools such as eyelash curlers and colored contact lenses further refine the look; curlers lift lashes for an open-eyed effect, while circle lenses enlarge the iris for a doll-like gaze, aligning with Korean beauty's emphasis on enhanced eye proportions. Skincare routines underpin the Ulzzang aesthetic, with multi-step regimens like the 10-step Korean method promoting dewy, poreless skin through layered hydration. Key components include essences for absorption and sheet masks soaked in hydrating serums, applied 2-3 times weekly to lock in moisture and achieve a glass-skin finish. Brands offer natural, Jeju Island-sourced products for this glow.^[25] The overarching goal of these techniques is to cultivate a baby-faced, wide-eyed innocence that conveys vulnerability and charm, often likened to a porcelain doll, reflecting South Korean cultural ideals of youthful perfection.

Cultural Significance

Impact on South Korean Media

Ulzzang aesthetics significantly shaped the visual identity of K-pop during the 2010s, as idols increasingly adopted the "best face" look characterized by flawless skin, large eyes, and youthful features in music videos and photoshoots. This integration marked a shift toward internet-inspired beauty standards in mainstream entertainment, with groups incorporating ulzzang elements into their styling to appeal to young fans familiar with online subcultures. The trend contributed to the polished, photogenic image central to K-pop's global appeal, influencing trainee selection and performance visuals across major agencies.^[26] In advertising, ulzzang emerged as a key archetype for beauty product commercials (CFs), promoting ideals of natural yet enhanced attractiveness that drove consumer interest in cosmetics. Brands leveraged this look to target youth demographics, with campaigns emphasizing gradient lips, dewy skin, and slim facial contours to embody accessibility and aspiration. This marketing strategy not only normalized ulzzang in everyday routines but also amplified the subculture's role in the growth of the K-beauty industry, which reached approximately $12.5 billion domestically by 2017.^[27]^[14] Media portrayals in South Korean dramas further embedded ulzzang into celebrity culture, portraying characters with the aesthetic to reflect contemporary youth narratives and societal beauty pressures. By the 2010s, this normalization extended to broader storytelling, where ulzzang-adjacent characters symbolized aspirational modernity, influencing casting choices and fan expectations in the entertainment sector. Such depictions reinforced ulzzang's transition from online phenomenon to a staple of domestic media, fostering a feedback loop with K-pop and advertising.^[28]

Global Influence and Adaptations

The Ulzzang aesthetic spread globally through the Korean Wave (Hallyu), particularly influencing neighboring Asian countries where it blended with local beauty ideals. In Japan, the style hybridized with gyaru fashion, creating softer, more natural interpretations of the "best face" look, as Japanese women in their teens and twenties adopted Korean-style makeup techniques known as "Ulzzang makeup" to achieve a youthful, innocent appearance.^[29] In China, Ulzzang gained traction on platforms like Weibo around the early 2010s, where users emulated the trend through selfies and tutorials, exporting the dewy skin and gradient lip motifs via social sharing.^[30] Selfie apps with beauty filters further facilitated this dissemination by offering natural enhancements like slimming faces and enlarging eyes, aligning with Ulzzang's emphasis on effortless perfection and becoming popular across Asia.^[31] In the West, Ulzzang influenced 2010s social media aesthetics on platforms like Tumblr and Instagram, where it merged with "soft grunge" styles to create a hybrid of Korean minimalism and Western edge, featuring pale skin, circle lenses, and layered casual outfits among influencers.^[14] This adaptation popularized K-beauty products like BB creams and air cushion foundations in Europe and North America, with brands innovating Ulzzang-inspired formulas for lightweight coverage and high SPF to suit diverse skin tones.^[14] Post-2018, TikTok influencers amplified the trend for global audiences, often blending it with local subcultures.^[32] As of 2025, Ulzzang continues to inspire makeup tutorials and fashion content on TikTok and Instagram, maintaining its relevance in digital beauty communities.^[33] The 2014 Hallyu boom, fueled by K-pop's international success, marked a pivotal moment for Ulzzang's export, as YouTube tutorials on the style amassed millions of views worldwide, demonstrating techniques like aegyo-sal highlighting and V-line contouring to non-Korean creators. Hallyu media, including dramas and music videos, showcased Ulzzang looks, encouraging adaptations that emphasized universal ideals of clear skin and symmetry. Western adaptations faced criticisms of cultural appropriation, particularly in subcultures like Udoli, a Black fashion movement from 2008 inspired by Ulzzang, where creators were accused of superficially mimicking the style without fully crediting its Korean roots, sparking debates on authenticity in global beauty trends.^[34]

Criticisms and Evolution

Societal Pressures and Backlash

The Ulzzang subculture has contributed to significant societal pressures in South Korea, particularly among adolescents, where the pursuit of idealized facial and body features often leads to mental health challenges such as body dysmorphia. Online Ulzzang contests, which involve submitting edited photos for public voting and commentary, frequently expose participants to cyberbullying, including harsh critiques of appearance that exacerbate self-esteem issues and distorted body perceptions. A 2014 study found that body image distortion affects 51.8% of Korean adolescents, with higher rates among females linked to societal beauty expectations like those promoted in Ulzzang aesthetics.^[35] These pressures manifest in extreme measures to achieve Ulzzang looks, including dieting and cosmetic procedures. Surveys indicate that a substantial portion of teen girls engage in weight loss efforts influenced by such standards; for instance, a 2007 study reported that 63.3% of female middle school students had dieting experience, often driven by desires for slim figures aligned with Ulzzang ideals.^[36] Similarly, acceptance of plastic surgery is widespread among youth, with 45.7% of female college students reporting experience with cosmetic procedures, reflecting broader adolescent trends where 49.4% of male adolescents aged 15-19 in Seoul express interest in surgery to meet beauty norms.^[37]^[38] In response, the 2010s saw the emergence of backlash movements challenging Ulzzang-associated elements like aegyo (cute, youthful expressions), viewed as reinforcing superficial femininity. The "anti-aegyo" sentiment gained traction on social media, criticizing it as a tool of patriarchal control that pressures women into performative cuteness. Concurrently, body positivity campaigns proliferated on platforms like Instagram and Twitter, promoting diverse body types and rejecting Ulzzang's narrow ideals through user-generated content and challenges that highlighted natural appearances.^[39]^[40] Gender dynamics within Ulzzang further underscore patriarchal influences, as the trend predominantly emphasizes female conformity to hyper-feminine, youthful standards while offering males more flexibility with minimal evolution in expectations. Women face disproportionate scrutiny and pressure to alter their features via makeup or surgery to embody the "best face" ideal, perpetuating male-gaze-driven beauty norms in a society where non-conformity disadvantages women professionally and socially. Male Ulzzang participants, though present, rarely encounter equivalent body modification demands, highlighting the trend's role in sustaining gender inequities.^[41]^[42] Notable events amplified these debates, such as the 2013 Miss Korea pageant scandal, where pre-makeup photos of contestants—many embodying the Ulzzang look—revealed heavy editing and sparked nationwide discussions on authenticity and the unattainable standards fueled by photo manipulation. The controversy, involving accusations of Photoshop use to achieve uniform "clone-like" features, prompted public outcry over the mental toll of such pressures and calls for greater transparency in beauty representations.^[43]^[44]

Modern Transformations

In the digital era, Ulzzang aesthetics have integrated deeply with augmented reality (AR) tools and metaverse platforms, enabling users to experiment with virtual personas. Since 2020, apps like Zepeto have offered extensive avatar customization options, allowing creators to apply beauty features such as symmetrical facial proportions and soft, glowing skin tones, often shared across social platforms for immersive experiences.^[45] This shift has amplified Ulzzang's reach, with AR filters on platforms like TikTok facilitating real-time transformations that blend traditional styling with interactive digital elements, fostering a new layer of accessibility in beauty expression.^[46] Post-2020 inclusivity transformations have broadened Ulzzang's representation beyond its early narrow ideals, incorporating diverse body types and gender expressions influenced by contemporary K-pop. Groups like NewJeans, debuting in 2022, have blended fresh-faced minimalism with Y2K nostalgia, promoting a more youthful and varied beauty narrative that emphasizes natural features across different physiques and identities.^[47] Their music videos and styling choices highlight inclusivity by featuring multinational casts and subtle, empowering aesthetics that challenge uniformity, encouraging fans to adapt Ulzzang elements to personal diversity.^[48] By 2024, Ulzzang in its pure form has seen a decline, evolving into hybridized aesthetics like the "clean girl" trend, which prioritizes effortless, dewy minimalism over ornate styling. This fusion maintains Ulzzang's core emphasis on polished natural beauty while aligning with global preferences for subtlety, as evidenced by the clean girl aesthetic being named the top beauty trend of 2024.^[49] Despite this shift, Ulzzang's influence persists in e-commerce, contributing to K-beauty's robust growth, with Korean cosmetics exports reaching $10.2 billion in 2024, driven by online sales of products echoing Ulzzang-inspired looks like gradient lips and glass skin serums.^[50] Looking ahead, the rise of AI-generated Ulzzang content poses new challenges to authenticity, as tools create hyper-realistic images adhering to traditional standards like V-line jaws and aegyo-sal eyes, potentially exacerbating pressures for unattainable perfection. In 2024, South Korea's AI Ethics Guidelines mandate watermarking such content to address these concerns, with the 2025 Basic Act on the Development of Artificial Intelligence further requiring labeling of generative AI outputs to mitigate deepfakes and reinforce boundaries between real and virtual beauty.^[51]^[52]

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AI 미녀: Korean AI Beauty Standards | ReelMind
The concept of "AI 미녀" (AI Beauty) has revolutionized South Korea's digital landscape, blending cutting-edge artificial intelligence with deeply ingrained ...