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Winold Reiss


Winold Reiss (1886–1953) was a -born specializing in portraiture, murals, and , particularly noted for his dignified depictions of and that challenged prevailing racial stereotypes. Born in , , to landscape painter Fritz Reiss, he trained under his father before studying at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts and the School of Applied Arts in with instructors and Julius Diez. Reiss immigrated to in 1913, where he established a studio and began integrating modernist influences from German Expressionism and into his work on ethnic diversity and motifs.
In the 1920s, Reiss gained prominence for his portraits of Blackfeet Indians, producing over 250 such works that emphasized cultural authenticity and individual character. His involvement with the peaked in 1925 when he illustrated the Survey Graphic issue ": Mecca of the " and contributed portraits to Alain Locke's anthology , featuring figures like , , and . These commissions highlighted African American intellectuals and artists with , promoting a visual narrative of equality amid ethnographic interests. Reiss's architectural achievements included murals fusing modern design with regional themes for the , completed in 1933. His broader oeuvre encompassed interior designs for restaurants and hotels, graphic work for magazines, and a commitment to using art for social unity by portraying America's multicultural fabric without prejudice.

Early Life and Education

Childhood and Family Background

Winold Reiss, born Fritz Wilhelm Winold Reiss, entered the world on September 16, 1886, in , . He was the second son of Fritz Reiss (1857–1914), a prominent painter and illustrator renowned for his depictions of landscapes and peasant life. Fritz Reiss had trained at the esteemed Düsseldorf Academy, where he honed skills in and portraiture before establishing a career that emphasized genre scenes of rural life. Reiss's mother remains largely undocumented in biographical records, identified only as Fritz Reiss's wife, with no specific name or background details preserved in primary artistic accounts. The family environment revolved around artistic pursuits, as Reiss integrated and into daily life, fostering an immersive creative atmosphere from Reiss's earliest years. This paternal influence provided Reiss's initial formal instruction in art, beginning with foundational techniques under his father's direct guidance in . While specific childhood anecdotes are scarce, the household's emphasis on —rooted in Fritz Reiss's specialization in Black Forest-inspired rural motifs—laid the groundwork for Winold's lifelong commitment to portraiture and design.

Artistic Training in Germany

Winold Reiss received his initial artistic instruction from his father, Fritz Reiss, a landscape painter and illustrator based in , , where Winold was born on September 16, 1886. Fritz provided foundational training in drawing and painting techniques, emphasizing naturalistic representation and genre scenes, which shaped Winold's early proficiency in portraiture and illustrative work. This familial apprenticeship occurred prior to formal schooling, instilling a practical approach to that blended fine arts with commercial applications. In 1910, Reiss relocated to to pursue advanced studies, enrolling at both the Königliche Akademie der Bildenden Künste (Royal Academy of Fine Arts) and the Kunstgewerbeschule (School of Applied Arts). At the Academy, he trained under , a leading figure in German and academic , whose instruction focused on , , and expressive portraiture; von Stuck's other notable students included and . Concurrently, at the Kunstgewerbeschule, Reiss studied with Julius Diez, honing skills in graphic design, poster art, and applied decorative techniques, which reflected the school's emphasis on integrating aesthetics with functionality amid the movement. This dual curriculum equipped Reiss with versatility across fine and decorative arts, distinguishing his later modernist output from purely academic traditions. Reiss's Munich period, spanning approximately 1910 to 1913, emphasized rigorous technical discipline, including techniques and bold color application, which von Stuck championed as vital for capturing human essence. These institutions, rooted in Wilhelmine Germany's cultural infrastructure, prioritized empirical observation over , aligning with Reiss's eventual realist style upon immigrating to the . By completion, he had synthesized academic rigor with applied innovation, evident in early commercial posters and designs produced during this formative phase.

Immigration to the United States

Arrival and Adaptation

Winold Reiss arrived in on October 29, 1913, aboard the S.S. Imperator, disembarking at . He settled in , where his wife Henriette and infant son Tjark joined him in 1914. Motivated by a desire to introduce European modernism to America and pursue his fascination with Native American cultures, Reiss quickly sought to establish himself in the competitive art scene. Upon viewing a exhibition shortly after arrival, he remarked that American art resembled "60 years ago," highlighting his perception of local artistic conservatism relative to European advancements. To adapt financially and professionally, Reiss initially catered to New York's ethnic German community for portrait and design commissions while taking on commercial graphic and interior projects. His breakthrough came in 1915 with the interior design for the Busy Lady Baking Company at 4230 Broadway, featuring bold geometric patterns and modern fixtures that marked it as one of New York's first modernist storefronts. That same year, he delivered a lecture at the Art Students League on "The Modern German Poster," advocating for vibrant, simplified forms inspired by European trends to influence American design. The entry of the United States into World War I in 1917 intensified anti-German sentiment, which curtailed some of Reiss's opportunities despite pre-war admiration for German culture among Americans. Nevertheless, he persisted with illustration and design work, including magazine covers produced in 1914 and 1915, blending his rigorous German training with emerging American commercial needs. These early efforts laid the groundwork for his later fusion of modernist techniques with portraits of diverse American subjects, though his planned travels to Native American communities were postponed until after the war.

Initial Commissions and Native American Portraits

Upon arriving in in October 1913, Winold Reiss secured initial commissions for portraits, graphic designs, and interior work to support his artistic career. One of his first major interior commissions was for the Busy Lady Baking Company in 1915, where he applied modernist principles to commercial spaces. A pivotal early commission arrived in 1920 from the Great Northern Railway, which sought portraits of Blackfeet individuals to promote tourism in Glacier National Park. Reiss traveled to the Blackfeet Reservation in , that January, accompanied by a student assistant. Over the winter, he completed 36 portraits of tribe members, emphasizing their individual dignity, , and facial features through bold colors and simplified forms influenced by his European training and interest in non-Western aesthetics. These portraits marked Reiss's first extensive engagement with Native American subjects, diverging from ethnographic stereotypes by treating sitters as modern individuals rather than relics. The Great Northern Railway reproduced the works in promotional calendars, menus, and brochures, distributing them widely and establishing Reiss's reputation in this genre. Louis W. Hill, the railroad's president and a key patron, later acquired batches of these portraits, including 52 from one summer's output in 1927, sustaining the collaboration. This initial railway commission expanded into a lifelong series, with Reiss painting at least 80 Blackfeet portraits over three decades, alongside depictions of other tribes, totaling over 250 Native American works that highlighted cultural vitality amid modernization. The series underscored Reiss's commitment to direct observation and respect for subjects, often involving extended stays on reservations to build rapport.

Career in Portraiture

Harlem Renaissance Contributions

Winold Reiss contributed to the Harlem Renaissance primarily through a series of commissioned portraits that depicted African American intellectuals, artists, and leaders with dignity and modernist sensibility, countering contemporary racial stereotypes prevalent in American art. In 1924, Survey Graphic magazine engaged Reiss to illustrate its special issue on Harlem, released March 1, 1925, as "Harlem: Mecca of the New Negro," under the editorship of Alain Locke; this publication featured Reiss's cover portrait of singer Roland Hayes alongside interior works portraying figures such as Locke, Countee Cullen, Elise J. McDougald, Paul Robeson, and Charles Spurgeon Johnson. The expanded anthology The New Negro: An Interpretation, published in December 1925 by Albert and Charles Boni, incorporated over a dozen of Reiss's portraits and decorative elements, including depictions of , (c. 1925), , and , establishing the volume as a foundational text of the . Reiss's illustrations, blending psychological insight with stylized forms influenced by African and other non-Western , visually articulated Locke's concept of the "New Negro" as a symbol of cultural awakening and racial assertion. These works elevated 's visibility in mainstream artistic discourse, with Reiss producing portraits that captured individual character and collective pride, as noted in contemporary accounts and later scholarly assessments of his role in promoting transatlantic modernism within Black cultural expression. His Harlem series, totaling around 20-30 portraits from the mid-1920s, influenced subsequent representations and underscored the movement's emphasis on self-representation amid broader American racial dynamics.

Portraits of Prominent Figures

Reiss extended his portraiture to prominent cultural and intellectual figures beyond his Native American and subjects, capturing performers, artists, and thinkers with a modernist style emphasizing and individuality. His 1924 portrait of , rendered in and crayon on illustration board, depicts the multifaceted actor, singer, and activist in a poised, introspective manner that highlights Robeson's commanding presence. This work, now held by the National Portrait Gallery, exemplifies Reiss's technique of using bold contours and vibrant hues to convey psychological depth without resorting to . The artist also portrayed tenor Roland Hayes, employing visible strokes of pastels or crayons to build form and texture, resulting in a sensitive representation that underscores Hayes's expressive musicality. Similarly, Reiss created a portrait of Japanese-American sculptor Isamu Noguchi, integrating the subject's artistic heritage into a stylized composition that aligned with his broader interest in non-Western influences. These commissions, executed primarily in the 1920s and 1930s, demonstrate Reiss's versatility in addressing sitters of international stature, often challenging prevailing ethnic stereotypes through empathetic, flattened forms inspired by German Expressionism and global art traditions.

Design and Modernist Works

Graphic and Interior Design

Winold Reiss produced a range of graphic designs, including posters, magazine covers, and advertisements, often fusing bold lines with vibrant colors to create striking visual effects. Notable posters include the Charity Bazaar poster, Photo Engravers' Convention poster circa 1915 featuring cartoon-like storks, and Scenic Artists Supper Ball poster. His magazine covers encompassed Survey Graphic (March 1925), Scribner's Magazine (December 1915), Modern Art Collector (multiple issues from October 1915 to 1917, including medieval festival themes), Opportunity (February 1925), Pagan (September and October 1919), Town & Country (August 15 and December 1, 1928), and Detective Magazine (April 1930 depicting a woman with a gun). Additional graphic works featured calendars for the Great Northern Railway, packaging designs like Barricini candy boxes with Indian motifs (1948), and a book jacket for The New Negro (1925). In interior design, Reiss pioneered modernist approaches, creating what was described as the first modernistic interior in America for Restaurant Crillon (1919–1920) at 15 East 48th Street, New York, characterized by flat walls, prismatic hues, and simplified decorations. He designed the Busy Lady Bakery (1915, New York), integrating interior, exterior, advertising, and blue-and-white packaging in a modern style. For Hotel Alamac (1920s, New York), Reiss themed public rooms in medieval and Congo styles, incorporating murals, furnishings, and metalwork such as chairs with tribal mask backs in the Congo Roof. Other projects included Hotel St. George (1930, Brooklyn) with its 11,000-square-foot ballroom featuring colorful lighting and abstract motifs; multiple Longchamps restaurants (1935–1952) using mirrors, indirect lighting, and themes like tropical or Native American; Shellball Apartments elevator cabs (1928) with zig-zag lines and bright colors; and color studies for Cincinnati Union Terminal rotunda ceiling (1933). Reiss also collaborated on furniture design in the 1920s with firms like General Fireproofing and Thonet, producing pieces with complex angles and vibrant colors.

Murals and Public Commissions

Reiss's early murals in the United States were commissioned primarily by restaurants and commercial establishments seeking large-scale decorations, marking his initial foray into public art upon immigration. His most significant public commission came in 1931 for the Cincinnati Union Terminal (CUT), where he designed a series of 16 tile mosaic murals illustrating the city's manufacturing industries and historical development within the broader American context. The murals, executed as preparatory cartoons by Reiss and translated into glass-tile mosaics by the Ravenna Mosaic and Tile Company, originally spanned the terminal's rotunda and semi-circular spaces, measuring approximately 22 feet high and collectively covering extensive wall areas to evoke industrial progress through depictions of workers, machinery, and local trades like meatpacking, brewing, and steel production. Reiss insisted on the mosaic medium for durability and vibrancy, integrating modernist stylization with realistic labor scenes to celebrate Cincinnati's economic backbone amid the Great Depression. Originally installed in 1933, the set was partially relocated to Cincinnati/Northern Kentucky International Airport (CVG) in 1973 after CUT's conversion to a museum, with only five panels remaining in public view as of 2025 due to conservation needs and space constraints. In 1946, Reiss completed mosaic murals for the entrance facade of the in , focusing on Native American motifs including , , and , which reflected his longstanding interest in indigenous representation while adapting techniques to architectural permanence. These works, smaller in scale than the CUT project, employed bold colors and symbolic figures to honor Plains tribes, aligning with his under muralist Olle Nordmark, who influenced his approach to and installation in public settings. Other public efforts included lost Art Deco murals for the Building's dining areas in the early , featuring industrial tableaus that were removed during renovations and rediscovered in fragments as late as , underscoring the fragility of many of Reiss's architectural integrations despite their initial prominence. His murals consistently prioritized thematic clarity and material innovation over ornamentation, prioritizing endurance in high-traffic venues.

Projects in the 1930s and Beyond

In 1933, Reiss completed mosaic murals for the Cincinnati Union Terminal, featuring designs of local industrial workers executed in ceramic tile. These 16 panels depicted 35 figures engaged in manufacturing processes representative of Cincinnati's economy, covering approximately 11,908 square feet of the terminal's artistic elements. The commission, awarded in 1930, required two years of preparation and execution, for which Reiss received $21,000. Studies for these murals, including gouache and crayon works, highlighted Reiss's modernist approach to portraying labor with dignity. Throughout the 1930s, Reiss focused on interior designs and murals for commercial spaces, particularly the Longchamps restaurant chain in . He created interiors and murals for locations including the (1935), Broadway and 41st Street (1936), 253 (1938), and 79th Street and (1938), emphasizing vibrant, thematic decorations. Other restaurant projects included murals for Steuben Tavern (1934), Lindy’s Restaurant with American-themed motifs (1939), and "The Patio" in , featuring Mexican-inspired murals (1938). For the , Reiss designed the façade and interior of the Music Hall pavilion along with a for the doughnuts exhibit. Reiss's engagements extended to public and transportation-related commissions in the 1940s and early 1950s. In 1946, he produced mosaic murals for the entrance of the Woolaroc Museum in Oklahoma. Hotel interiors followed, such as those for the Yorktowne Hotel in Pennsylvania (1941), along with murals for restaurants like Tropical Gardens (1944) and St. James (1945). Later works included a Grand Canyon mural and interior design for the Santa Fe Railroad Ticket Office in Kansas City, Missouri (1951), and continued Longchamps designs culminating in the Washington, D.C., location (1952). Concurrently, Reiss maintained ties with the Great Northern Railway, where his Blackfeet portraits informed ongoing promotional materials into the 1950s, though primary creation occurred earlier. From 1933 to 1941, he also taught mural painting as an assistant professor at New York University. Reiss continued producing Native American portraits, including 66 Blackfeet works in 1943, often linked to his Glacier National Park summer schools, which operated into the late 1930s. He died on August 29, 1953, in New York City.

Artistic Philosophy and Style

Influences from Non-Western Art

Reiss's exposure to Native American art during his 1919 trip to Glacier National Park in profoundly shaped his artistic approach, as he studied Blackfeet designs and incorporated their geometric patterns and symbolic motifs into his portrait compositions. Blackfeet artists' sophisticated vocabulary of forms, including ledger book drawings and patterns, influenced Reiss's use of bold contours and flattened perspectives, evident in works like his portraits of Blackfeet chiefs such as . In the context of the , Reiss demonstrated a keen interest in , collecting masks and sculptures that informed his ethnographic perspective on portraiture. He advocated for deriving a modern American aesthetic from such non-Western sources, as seen in his studio displays of artifacts alongside his subjects, which emphasized dignity through stylized features reminiscent of tribal carvings. This influence extended to his student Aaron Douglas, whose murals under Reiss's guidance fused sculptural abstraction with European modernism, though Reiss himself applied subtler adaptations in pastel techniques to highlight individual character over caricature. Reiss's broader ethnographic method rejected Eurocentric hierarchies, drawing causal parallels between the vitality of non-Western traditions—such as Native American ledger art's narrative precision and mask geometry—and Jugendstil's ornamental freedom from his training, fostering a hybrid style that prioritized empirical observation of cultural forms over imposed narratives.

Techniques and Approach to Representation

Winold Reiss employed a range of media in his portraiture, including pastels, conte crayon, oils, watercolors, and drawings, often executed on rough Whatman watercolor paper mounted on board to achieve textured effects. His technique emphasized naturalistic rendering of skin tones and textures, as seen in portraits where pastels captured subtle facial details and hand contours with precision. Reiss favored strong outlines, bold colors, and a graphic focus on patterning, creating a simplified yet dignified aesthetic that highlighted subjects' individuality without excessive embellishment. In representing diverse groups such as and Harlem Renaissance figures, Reiss immersed himself in their communities, forging personal connections to inform his depictions and ensure respectful portrayals of and cultural attire. For instance, in Blackfeet portraits, he used contour lines to delineate textiles like blankets while prioritizing facial features to convey personal dignity. Similarly, his charcoal outlines in subjects directed attention to softly contoured faces, underscoring individuality over idealized forms. This approach blended European modernist influences, such as , with non-Western aesthetics encountered in travels, resulting in unfinished edges that invited viewers to focus on essential traits. Reiss's method rejected romanticized , instead prioritizing empirical observation and causal ties to subjects' lived realities, evident in over 250 Native American works that documented specific individuals with unvarnished . His graphic emphasis extended to commercial applications, where patterning and bold forms maintained representational integrity across fine and .

Reception, Criticisms, and Legacy

Contemporary Acclaim and Challenges

During the , Winold Reiss achieved significant acclaim for his portraits of African subjects, particularly through his illustrations for the March 1925 special issue of Survey Graphic devoted to , edited by Alain , which highlighted the cultural dynamism of the neighborhood. These works, featuring dignified depictions of figures like and , were expanded into Locke's anthology later that year, where Locke praised Reiss for capturing the "spiritual emancipation" and modern essence of Black urban life without resorting to . Reiss's approach, blending modernist techniques with empathetic observation, earned him recognition as an outsider ally to the , with his portraits exhibited and reproduced widely, contributing to broader awareness of the movement. However, Reiss faced challenges from within the Harlem community, where some critics questioned the legitimacy of a white German immigrant artist portraying Black subjects, viewing his selections for The New Negro as an imposition of external authority that risked exoticizing or typifying residents. Locke defended Reiss in the May 1925 issue of Survey Graphic, arguing that artistic representation should transcend racial boundaries and that excluding non-Black artists would limit cultural expression, though this stance drew further debate on authenticity and control in Black self-representation. Such criticisms reflected broader tensions over who could authentically depict the "New Negro," with Reiss's foreign perspective occasionally labeled as detached or presumptuous despite his immersive sketching sessions in Harlem. Into the 1930s, Reiss sustained professional success through major public commissions, including mosaic murals for the rotunda completed in 1933, which integrated his stylized ethnic motifs into architecture and garnered praise for their bold integration of modern design with cultural themes. His work, such as the Busy Lady Bakery in (1915, but emblematic of his ongoing style), and other 1920s projects during the building boom, provided financial stability and further acclaim for pioneering geometric, functional aesthetics influenced by European modernism. Yet, the curtailed such opportunities, shifting focus to smaller-scale portraits and murals, while his emphasis on multicultural subjects occasionally isolated him from mainstream American art circles favoring more conventional narratives.

Critiques of Portrayal Methods

Reiss's series of pastel portraits titled "Harlem Types," published in the 1925 Survey Graphic Harlem issue and later featured in Alain Locke's The New Negro anthology, drew criticism from some African American intellectuals and community members for allegedly reducing diverse individuals to essentialized racial archetypes, despite Locke's intent to showcase modern individuality amid primitivist influences. Locke personally defended the works against detractors at a public meeting in Harlem that year, arguing they captured the "soul and spirit" of the subjects while challenging derogatory stereotypes prevalent in mainstream media. Critics like Jessie Fauset highlighted concerns over an outsider artist's authority to visually define Black identity, viewing the stylized patterns and bold contours—drawn from Reiss's European training—as potentially imposing a foreign lens that abstracted lived experiences into symbolic "types." External opposition stemmed from racist backlash against Reiss's dignified depictions of self-possessed and professionals, which disrupted era-specific expectations of or ; gallerists explicitly rejected exhibitions of these portraits in the , citing fears of drawing Black visitors and thus alienating white clientele. This resistance underscored a broader cultural intolerance for visual affirmations of , as Reiss's method—employing vibrant pastels and decorative motifs inspired by —provoked accusations of over-idealization that clashed with entrenched segregationist views. Later assessments critiqued Reiss's integration of non-Western ornamental elements in portraits and related designs, such as the 1920s Congo Room interior at the Almanac Hotel, for bordering on appropriation; by borrowing motifs from African and Indigenous arts without full contextual immersion, his approach risked reinforcing colonial-era primitivism under the guise of modernist synthesis, though contemporaries like Locke praised it as elevating marginalized subjects. These methods, while innovative in blending figuration with abstraction, were faulted for prioritizing aesthetic universality over unmediated cultural specificity, potentially diluting the raw socio-political realities of his sitters in favor of harmonious, decorative harmony.

Modern Reassessments and Exhibitions

In recent decades, Winold Reiss's oeuvre has undergone significant reassessment, positioning him as an influential immigrant modernist whose work bridged European avant-garde influences with American cultural diversity. Scholars emphasize his portraits of Harlem Renaissance figures, such as Langston Hughes and W.E.B. Du Bois, for portraying African American subjects with dignity and individuality, countering prevailing racial stereotypes through stylized yet empathetic representation. This reevaluation highlights Reiss's multicultural approach, drawing from non-Western art forms to depict Native Americans, African Americans, and industrial workers without exoticization, fostering a broader understanding of early 20th-century American modernism. Key exhibitions have catalyzed this renewed interest. The 2018 show "Winold Reiss Will Not Be Classified" at Hirschl & Adler Galleries presented 40 works spanning his U.S. career, marking the first comprehensive gallery exhibition in over 30 years and underscoring his versatility across portraits, murals, and designs. In 2022, the New-York Historical Society's "The Art of Winold Reiss: An Immigrant Modernist" featured approximately 150 works, including many previously unseen, with a focus on his portraits and their role in elevating marginalized voices within modernist discourse. These displays, supported by catalog essays, argue for Reiss's undervalued impact on American art, portraying him as a pioneer in dignified multicultural representation amid the era's social upheavals. Academic symposia have further deepened this reassessment. The 2023 event "Winold Reiss and the Challenges of " at Freie Universität Berlin examined his contributions across fine arts and commercial design, critiquing how his figurative style intersected with narratives often dominated by contemporaries like Aaron Douglas. An upcoming 2025 exhibition, "Winold Reiss: The New American Portrait" at Hirschl & Adler, opening January 9, continues this momentum by spotlighting his portraiture's innovative fusion of modernist and cultural . Collectively, these efforts affirm Reiss's legacy as a truth-seeking who prioritized empirical and causal links between form and identity, resisting ideological distortions in representation.

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