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Akubra

Akubra is an iconic manufacturer renowned for its handcrafted hats made from rabbit fur felt, featuring wide brims for protection against the sun and elements, and embodying rugged durability and timeless style. Founded in 1876 by Benjamin Dunkerley in as the Kensington Hat Mills, the company has produced high-quality headwear using traditional fur-felting techniques for nearly 150 years, becoming a symbol of heritage and resilience. The Akubra brand name was officially registered in 1912 by Arthur P. Stewart, amid the company's growth from its Tasmanian origins to operations in Sydney by 1900. Key developments included the invention of a fur-dressing machine in 1892 by Dunkerley, expansion during World War II when 80% of production supported the armed forces, and relocation to Kempsey, New South Wales, in 1974, where manufacturing continues today with a workforce employing time-honored methods. Each hat requires up to six weeks to craft, involving 162 precise steps and passing through 60 pairs of hands, ensuring exceptional quality and longevity designed to last a lifetime. Akubra hats, such as the classic Cattleman and Traveller models, are prized for their versatility in rural, adventurous, and everyday settings, often featuring roan sweatbands for comfort and water-resistant properties inherent to the fur felt material. Culturally, they represent Australian outback identity, appearing in , music, and , and have been supplied exclusively for the Australian military since 2012. In 2023, the company was acquired by , preserving its legacy of craftsmanship amid modern expansions like new retail stores and, in May 2025, the release of its largest collection of new hat styles in 149 years.

History

Founding and Early Development

Benjamin Dunkerley, an English hatter from , , immigrated to in November 1874 to explore opportunities in the hat-making industry. Two years later, in 1876, he established the Kensington Hat Mills in Glenorchy, near , , in partnership with David Glenhill, utilizing imported machinery from to produce felt hats. The factory quickly scaled, employing around 30 workers and manufacturing approximately 750 hats per week, primarily using local rabbit fur for felt production. The venture faced financial difficulties, leading to in 1879 due to overambitious projections. After the restrictions were lifted, Dunkerley re-established Kensington Hat Mills in 1885 in partnership with H.J. , shifting focus to high-quality fur felt hats to capitalize on Australia's abundant population. This period marked early innovations, including Dunkerley's 1892 invention and patenting of a fur-dressing that efficiently removed hair tips from pelts, revolutionizing the processing of for hat bodies and enabling more consistent quality. The was a world first, significantly improving efficiency in an industry reliant on manual labor. In 1900, Dunkerley relocated the operation to a small workshop in Sydney's to access larger markets. By 1904, hatmaker Stephen Keir Sr., who had arrived in in 1901, joined the business, bringing expertise in traditional hat crafting; he later married Dunkerley's daughter Ada in 1905 and became general manager. This partnership culminated in the formal registration of Dunkerley Hat Mills Pty Ltd in 1911, with 19 employees and seven shareholders, including Keir as managing director. Following Dunkerley's death in 1918, Stephen Keir became the patriarch of the business. On August 7, 1912, sales agent Arthur Pringle Stewart registered the "Akubra" for the company's hats, a name derived from an Aboriginal word meaning "head covering," which soon became synonymous with the brand's durable bush hats.

Expansion and Challenges

In 1900, Benjamin Dunkerley relocated the hat-making business from to a small workshop on Crown Street in , , seeking improved access to expanding markets and a skilled labor pool in the city's garment district. This strategic move marked the beginning of Akubra's growth beyond regional operations, positioning it closer to urban consumers and suppliers essential for scaling production. The relocation capitalized on 's economic vibrancy, allowing the company to transition from modest beginnings to a more robust enterprise amid rising demand for quality felt hats. By the late , surging interest in hats during the necessitated further expansion, leading to a relocation in 1919 to a larger factory in . This facility upgrade supported the employment of hundreds of hatmakers and doubled output with new machinery installed in 1921, accommodating the era's urban trends toward stylish headwear. To align with these preferences, Akubra introduced colored dyes and varied brim widths, adapting traditional designs for city while maintaining durability for . The company prominently showcased its evolving range at the 1927 Australian Manufacturers’ Exhibition, highlighting models worn by schoolboys to appeal to broader demographics. The posed severe economic challenges, with reduced consumer spending threatening the hat industry. Akubra responded by implementing a 10% pay cut across its workforce of over 220 employees to avert redundancies, enabling to endure while many competitors collapsed. As part of survival strategies, it diversified into women's hats, broadening its market beyond men's bush styles to include more versatile fashion options amid fluctuating demand.

Military Role and Post-War Growth

Akubra's involvement in marked a pivotal moment in its history, as the company supplied s to Australian forces during the conflict, helping to establish the iconic upturned brim style that became synonymous with the Australian military identity. The , with its distinctive left-side brim turned up to accommodate rifle slinging, was adopted as standard issue for the Australian Imperial Force, and Akubra's contributions solidified its role as a key supplier during the conflict. During , Akubra's production shifted dramatically to support the war effort, with approximately 80% of its output dedicated to military hats by 1943, including slouch hats for and Allied forces. This commitment extended to producing substantial quantities of these durable fur-felt hats, which were essential for troops in various theaters, enhancing the brand's reputation for reliability under demanding conditions. Following the end of , Akubra experienced a significant surge in demand for its bush hats among returning soldiers accustomed to the slouch style and rural workers seeking practical headwear for Australia's harsh environment. This boom in civilian sales reflected the hats' transition from military staple to everyday essential, driving the company's expansion and leading to annual sales figures of 140,000 to 180,000 units by the late . The brand's prestige grew further through ongoing military ties, including the renewal of contracts with the Australian Defence Force; in 2012, Akubra became the exclusive manufacturer of slouch hats, ensuring continued production for ceremonial and field use. In 1991, Akubra introduced the Cattleman style to honor the Australian Stockman's Hall of Fame, drawing on historical designs from military and rural traditions with its pre-creased telescope crown and wide, bound-edge brim. This model not only paid tribute to Australia's stockmen heritage but also capitalized on the post-war legacy of rugged, versatile headwear, further boosting the company's cultural and commercial footprint.

Ownership Changes and Recent Developments

In 1952, Stephen Keir Sr. retired as managing director of Akubra, passing control to his eldest son, Herbert Keir, and subsequent generations of the Keir family, who maintained family ownership across five generations until 2023. This continuity ensured the company's operations remained under familial stewardship, preserving its traditional practices amid evolving market conditions. In 1974, Akubra relocated its entire production from to a new facility in , to access larger premises amid government decentralization incentives and to leverage lower operational costs while emphasizing its rural Australian heritage. The move supported expansion during a period of economic challenges for , solidifying Kempsey as the brand's enduring base. A significant shift occurred in November 2023 when the Keir family sold Akubra to , the private investment company of and Nicola Forrest, for an undisclosed sum estimated at over $100 million, thereby retaining full ownership. Under , the company committed to investing in technology, production capacity, and staff to enhance the brand without altering its core manufacturing ethos. In August 2024, Akubra renewed its long-standing contract as the sole supplier of slouch hats to the Australian Defence Force, a partnership dating to ; by 2015, the company had produced its 2 millionth such hat, with commitments extending production into the future. Early 2025 saw further growth through strategic partnerships, including Akubra's role as Presenting Partner for the in August, and the opening of new branded retail stores in , such as the flagship location in and an outlet in Noosa.

Manufacturing

Materials Used

Akubra hats are crafted exclusively from 100% fur felt, which offers superior water resistance, durability, and shape retention compared to wool felt, enabling the hats to withstand harsh environmental conditions. The fur is the soft, downy undercoat, with guard hairs removed during processing to achieve a finer, more pliable texture while preserving the natural felting properties essential for traditional hatmaking. Historically, Akubra began with wool and fur blends in the late but shifted to pure fur felt by the early , as the material provided a smoother finish and greater resilience for and use. Initially sourced from wild , the fur supply transitioned in 2015 to imported due to domestic shortages, ensuring consistent quality as a by-product of the . However, the use of fur has faced criticism from groups regarding farming practices. The hats incorporate reeded roan leather sweatbands and inner linings crafted from high-quality , specially tanned for comfort, , and moisture absorption during extended wear. Akubra avoids synthetic materials entirely to retain the authentic felt characteristics, such as breathability and longevity. Environmental considerations guide the sourcing, with fur obtained sustainably as a —a practice aligned with the company's operations since relocating to Kempsey in , minimizing waste.

Production Techniques

The production of Akubra hats follows a traditional 162-step process that spans approximately six weeks, emphasizing handcrafted techniques to ensure durability and quality. This intricate method begins with the preparation of rabbit fur, where processed pelts are fed into blowing machines to separate the soft underfur from coarser guard hairs, removing dirt and debris to yield a fine, cotton-like batt of fibers. The cleaned fur is then formed into large cone-shaped bodies using specialized forming machines, where hot water is sprayed onto revolving cones to bind and felt the fibers into a cohesive, strong material roughly three times the size of the finished . Following coning, the felt bodies undergo shrinking through repeated passes in roller presses, which apply and friction to compact the material, after which they are dyed to achieve the desired color. Steaming softens the felt for shaping, allowing it to be stretched over wooden blocks or molds that define the crown's creases and the brim's curve, with additional manual adjustments to refine the silhouette. Akubra relies on century-old machinery for these stages, including a revolutionary fur-dressing machine patented in by founder Benjamin Dunkerley, which mechanized the initial fur preparation while preserving artisanal precision without full . In the finishing phase, the brims are hand-bound or edged—often with or for styles suited to harsh conditions—to enhance resilience against environmental wear, while interiors receive hand-stitched sweatbands for comfort. , a manual process using tools to pound and smooth the felt surface, ensures density and a refined texture. Throughout the timeline, involves meticulous inspections at key intervals, including checks for flaws post-pressing and final shaping, complemented by integrated achieved through the felting's hot , pressure, and , rendering the hats water-repellent without additional chemical treatments.

Factory Operations in Kempsey

In 1974, Akubra relocated its entire production operations to a new workshop in Kempsey, a rural town on the mid-north coast of , establishing it as the company's sole manufacturing site and employing local skilled artisans to continue the tradition of handcrafted . This move supported the preservation of artisanal techniques in a community-oriented setting, with the factory employing approximately 120 workers as of 2023 dedicated to the labor-intensive process. Each Akubra hat undergoes a six-week production cycle, passing through more than 60 pairs of hands in a collaborative environment where artisans contribute specialized skills at various stages to ensure quality and consistency. The factory maintains traditional conditions, characterized by a noisy, fur-filled atmosphere from the felting and shaping processes, and relies on heritage machinery to uphold the authenticity of the craft despite modern demands. Akubra's Kempsey facility produces over 240,000 hats annually, with dedicated production lines handling significant military contracts, such as the supply of slouch hats to the Australian Defence Force under a renewed long-term as of 2024. The factory offers public tours, providing visitors with insights into the manufacturing heritage and fostering on Australian-made , further enhanced by the recent reopening of an on-site store in as a .

Styles and Variants

Traditional Bush Hats

The traditional bush hats from Akubra embody the rugged functionality required for Australia's harsh and rural environments, prioritizing sun protection, durability, and versatility for stockmen, farmers, and workers in arid landscapes. Crafted from 100% rabbit fur felt, these hats feature wide brims and sturdy crowns designed to shield against intense and dust while allowing freedom of movement during labor-intensive tasks. The stands as Akubra's flagship traditional style, characterized by its wide brim with the left side upturned to facilitate rifle handling for and unobstructed vision for stockmen on horseback. This design has been produced by Akubra since the early , aligning with its adoption in during for practical field use. Its enduring form reflects the demands of bush life, offering broad coverage against the elements while maintaining a distinctive silhouette. Introduced in 1991 to commemorate the Australian Stockman's Hall of Fame, the Cattleman style features a pre-creased telescope crown and an 8.3 cm bound-edge brim, providing optimal sun protection for those working the land. The teardrop-shaped crown reaches 12 cm in height, enhancing shade over the face and neck, while the unlined interior and leather sweatband ensure comfort during extended exposure to heat and exertion. This model honors the heritage of rural guardianship, with its robust construction suited to the rigors of cattle handling and open-range activities. The extends the traditional bush hat lineage with a wider brim of approximately 10 cm, tailored for the demanding conditions of farming regions. Inspired by Australia's agricultural heartland, it offers superior shade and ventilation through its broad, dipping brim and eyelet vents, making it ideal for long days in sun-baked fields. The , with its 8.3 cm bound-edge brim tilted for enhanced protection against dust and glare, draws from mining heritage for arid terrains like fields. Both styles emphasize resilience, with water-resistant felt that withstands environmental wear. Akubra also provides open crown options in traditional bush hats, such as the Campdraft and Adventurer, which arrive uncreased to allow users to customize the shape according to personal preference and task needs. This versatility empowers rural workers to form creases like the cattleman or slouch style, adapting the hat for specific activities from mustering to navigating rough terrain. The open design promotes airflow and a tailored fit, underscoring the hats' practical role in everyday labor. Color choices for these traditional styles, including fawn, black, and sand, are selected for their ability to resist dust accumulation in arid regions, blending seamlessly with the earthy tones of the . The fur felt's inherent strength and water resistance further enhance longevity in dry, dusty conditions, while maintaining a UPF 50+ rating for protection.

Modern and Fashion-Oriented Styles

In recent decades, Akubra has expanded its offerings to include and styles tailored for urban environments, blending classic silhouettes with contemporary appeal. The , a dedicated women's inspired by designs, features a wide brim and feminine ribbon band, making it suitable for city wear. Similarly, the draws on wide-brim European influences, providing a dedicated women's option with elegant proportions for fashion-forward settings. Akubra's lifestyle collections emphasize versatility for everyday use beyond rural contexts. The Adventure Hats line, including models like the Adventurer and Traveller, incorporates narrower brims measuring approximately 7–8 cm to enhance practicality in or scenarios while maintaining the brand's felt durability. The Big Sky collection, inspired by aesthetics, offers a Pro brim in a more refined profile for lifestyle applications, available in colors like Light Sand and Bitter Chocolate. To attract younger demographics, Akubra has pursued collaborations such as the limited-edition partnership with Ross, which introduces fresh, modern interpretations of heritage motifs through custom accessories and apparel that complement hat styles. The brand maintains over 100 distinct styles in total, encompassing crowns like the Pastoralist and homburg designs such as the Homburg Black with its 40–45 mm brim, with annual color refreshes including Fern and Blue Grass Green. Central to Akubra's modern approach is a unisex design philosophy, where most models are adaptable for both men and women, except for specialized lines like the Bianca and Milan, promoting inclusivity in fashion-oriented wear.

Customization Options

Akubra hats provide several post-purchase customization options through authorized services and retailers, allowing wearers to tailor the hat for comfort, style, and functionality. These modifications are typically performed by skilled hatters using steam to soften the fur felt, ensuring the hat retains its durability while adapting to personal needs. Brim adjustments are a popular customization, where the shape can be refined on models with standard brims ranging from approximately 7 cm, as on the R.M. hat, to wider options up to 10 cm on certain variants, with edges finished via for a clean look or rolling to enhance weather resistance and shape retention. Reshaping techniques, demonstrated by Akubra's production experts, involve the brim to curl or flatten sections, creating a custom without altering the core . Crown creasing services enable personalization of the hat's top, particularly for open-crown models like the Adventurer or Campdraft, which can be shaped into classic styles such as the for a tapered look, pinched front for added structure, or fully custom configurations. These services are available at the Kempsey factory or through specialist retailers, where master hatters use and manual pressure to form the desired , preserving the hat's stiffness. Personalization extends to the interior with or stamping options on the sweatband, where initials, names, or commemorative text can be added for a touch, as seen in limited-edition models featuring gold-stamped signatures. This service is handled by authorized providers to avoid damaging the hat's lining. Sizing customization accommodates head circumferences from 53 cm to 64 cm, with professional stretching services using specialized tools to expand a tight fit by 1-2 cm while maintaining shape integrity; hats are measured above the ears and eyebrows for precision. Accessory integrations further enhance usability, including official chin straps with breakaway clips for secure attachment during active wear and decorative hatbands in or for stylistic flair, both available through Akubra retailers and online stores.

Cultural Significance

Symbolism in Australian Identity

Akubra hats have long embodied the "" archetype in Australian culture, representing , , and a deep connection to the land that dates back to the early . Worn by stockmen, cattlemen, and explorers navigating the harsh , these hats symbolize resilience against environmental challenges, evoking the pioneering spirit of those who shaped rural . Their prominence at cultural events like the and rodeos further cements this symbolism, where attendees don Akubras to honor heritage and national pride. At rodeos, such as the Rodeo, the hats are ubiquitous among riders, stockmen, and spectators, underscoring traditions of and community in pastoral life. Similarly, during the , Akubras evoke Australia's equestrian and rural roots, blending fashion with functional symbolism of endurance. Politicians like have reinforced Akubra's role as a cultural by gifting the hats to foreign dignitaries, presenting them as emblems of the Australian spirit and rural . This practice highlights the hat's status as a tangible expression of , fostering through shared values of hardiness and . The name "Akubra," claimed to derive from an Aboriginal word meaning "head covering," integrates the hat into and narratives, strengthening ties to Australia's ancient landscapes and custodianship of the country. In contexts, Akubras worn by generations of land workers symbolize stewardship and harmony with the environment, bridging colonial and elements of Australian . Amid Australia's high rates—the highest globally—Akubras promote sun protection as a practical , with their wide brims offering UPF 50+ coverage and aligning with advocacy for outdoor resilience. This functional aspect enhances their symbolism of prudent adaptation to the continent's intense climate. The Akubra's military legacy, through its production of the for Australian forces in , briefly underscores its broader emblem of national fortitude.

Use in Media and by Public Figures

Akubra hats gained widespread international recognition through their prominent role in the 1986 film , where actor Paul Hogan's character, Mick "Crocodile" Dundee, wore a black Akubra Down Under model adorned with crocodile teeth, cementing the hat as a symbol of Australian ruggedness and boosting global sales, particularly in the United States. In Australian cinema, Akubra hats have frequently appeared on characters, including those portrayed by and in the 2008 epic Australia, directed by ; Kidman wore various Akubra styles as Lady Sarah Ashley, while Jackman's drover character sported a custom-made Akubra with a pencil-rolled brim, with nearly 450 Akubra hats supplied for the production to evoke authentic frontier aesthetics. Akubra hats are also prominent in Australian country music, with custom designs like the Outback Club hat created for singer Lee Kernaghan in 2008, named after his hit song, and long associated with legend Slim Dusty, who wore them in performances and recordings, embodying rural Australian storytelling and heritage. Australian politicians have embraced Akubra hats at official events, underscoring their ties to national heritage; for instance, Prime Minister Anthony Albanese donned one during a 2023 appearance at the Mount Isa Rodeo and gifted an Akubra to Canadian Prime Minister Mark Carney at a 2025 G7 meeting in Calgary. Deputy Prime Minister Barnaby Joyce has made the Akubra his signature accessory since entering federal politics in 2017, often wearing it to emphasize his rural roots and even gifting them to foreign dignitaries. In sports endorsements, three-time world champion surfer became a 2025 brand ambassador for Akubra, fronting their summer campaign to link the hats with themes of Australian adventure and coastal resilience. Akubra's family-owned legacy and workshop traditions have been showcased in media documentaries, including a 2014 feature exploring the five-generation Keir family's craftsmanship in Kempsey using rabbit fur felt, and ABC's 2023 Sydney Evenings episode and 2025 segment, which toured the 150-year-old factory to highlight ongoing production techniques.

Global Appeal and Endorsements

Akubra hats are exported to multiple countries worldwide, including significant markets in the and the , where styles suited for western and adventure activities have gained particular traction among consumers. In the , distributor David Morgan has offered Akubra hats since 1964, providing a wide range of models through its retail store in , and online platform, catering to enthusiasts of durable, heritage-inspired headwear. Similarly, in the UK, Elm of serves as the official importer, stocking the largest selection of Akubra hats available in the region and facilitating access for British buyers interested in Australian bush styles. International celebrity endorsements have further elevated Akubra's global profile, with stars like publicly wearing the hats in promotional contexts and casual settings, which has helped drive overseas sales. For instance, was photographed donning an Akubra at the beach, aligning the brand with his rugged, Australian-rooted image and appealing to audiences. These appearances, alongside those by other actors such as and , have reinforced Akubra's appeal as an authentic symbol of Australian toughness on the international stage. The brand has engaged in notable partnerships and symbolic gestures to enhance its worldwide recognition, including the presentation of custom Akubra hats to and in October 2024 by Australia's Australians of the Year, Professors Georgina Long and Richard Scolyer. This gift, highlighting the hats' role in sun protection and , served as a warm Australian welcome during the royal visit and underscored Akubra's ties to global events and . Akubra has experienced growth in urban fashion circles abroad, supported by specialized retailers and robust online sales that emphasize the brand's 150-year heritage of craftsmanship. In the , outlets like David Morgan promote Akubra's -oriented collections alongside traditional styles, attracting city dwellers seeking versatile, story-rich accessories for modern wardrobes. Online platforms further amplify this expansion, allowing international customers to access limited-edition and customizable options that blend origins with contemporary aesthetics. However, Akubra faces hurdles in achieving broader adoption in environments overseas, primarily due to the hats' perceived impracticality for everyday city use, such as interference with indoor activities or . This limitation was highlighted in a 2025 episode of ABC's Gruen, where expert Jessica Sutanto argued that the design's rugged functionality suits rural or outdoor pursuits far better than metropolitan lifestyles, constraining its versatility despite growing niche interest.

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