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Breaking wave

A breaking wave, also known as a breaker, is an ocean wave whose crest becomes unstable and collapses forward, transforming organized wave energy into turbulent motion and dissipation, typically when the horizontal velocity of water particles at the crest exceeds the wave's phase speed or celerity.^[1] This instability arises primarily in shallow water near shorelines, where shoaling causes wave height to increase and wavelength to shorten due to interaction with the seabed, leading to a steepness limit where the ratio of wave height (H) to wavelength (L) exceeds approximately 1/7.^[2] In deeper water, breaking can also occur through whitecapping when the deep-water steepness (H₀/L₀) surpasses about 0.05, driven by wind forcing.^[1] Breaking waves are classified into several types based on the beach slope and incident wave characteristics, such as the Iribarren parameter, which relates bottom steepness to wave steepness.^[1] Spilling breakers form on gentle slopes, where the crest gradually spills foam forward over several wavelengths, dissipating energy with minimal reflection.^[3] Plunging breakers occur on moderate slopes, featuring a curling crest that plunges downward, creating high turbulence and often forming surfable tubes, with partial energy reflection and transmission.^[3] Surging breakers develop on steep shores with long-period, low-amplitude waves, sliding up the beach with little foam and over 50% reflection, while collapsing breakers represent a transitional form between plunging and surging.^[1] These phenomena play a pivotal role in coastal dynamics and ocean-atmosphere interactions, serving as the primary mechanism for dissipating wind-generated wave energy and limiting wave growth.^[4] Breaking induces turbulence in the surface layer, which mixes heat, momentum, and nutrients vertically, while also enhancing air-sea gas exchange for gases like carbon dioxide and oxygen.^[4] Additionally, breakers shape coastlines through erosion, sediment transport, and deposition, influencing beach morphology and nearshore ecosystems.^[1]

Overview

Definition

A breaking wave occurs in surface gravity waves, which are oscillations at the air-water interface where gravity serves as the primary restoring force.^[5] These waves become breakers when their height exceeds a critical threshold relative to the wavelength, causing the crest to become unstable and overturn or collapse under the combined effects of gravity and fluid dynamics.^[6] This instability typically develops as the wave front steepens to a vertical or overhanging profile, marking the onset of breaking.^[7] Key characteristics of a breaking wave include the rapid onset of instability at the wave front, often resulting in the formation of a turbulent bore or whitecap as the crest spills or plunges forward.^[3] This process transitions the wave from coherent, progressive motion—where energy propagates with the wave—to dissipative turbulence, where kinetic energy is converted into heat and mixing.^[8] The systematic study of breaking waves began with George Gabriel Stokes in 1880, who analyzed the limiting configuration of waves and highlighted the critical role of steepness in deep water conditions.^[9] Stokes determined that breaking initiates when the ratio of wave height H to wavelength L surpasses approximately $1/7 (or H/L > 0.142), beyond which the wave profile cannot maintain stability without fracturing.^[3]

Significance

Breaking waves play a crucial role in oceanographic processes by driving turbulent mixing in the upper ocean layers, which facilitates the vertical transport of heat, momentum, and dissolved substances. This mixing enhances nutrient upwelling from deeper waters to the sunlit surface, supporting primary productivity in marine ecosystems and influencing global biogeochemical cycles.^[10] Additionally, the turbulence generated by breaking waves promotes air-sea gas exchange, particularly for sparingly soluble gases like CO₂ and O₂, by increasing the air-water interface area through bubble entrainment and surface renewal.^[11] These interactions contribute to climate regulation by modulating the ocean's capacity to absorb atmospheric CO₂ and distribute heat, thereby affecting global temperature patterns and ocean circulation.^[12] In environmental contexts, breaking waves are the primary mechanism behind whitecapping during storms, where intense wave action fractures the sea surface and ejects sea spray into the atmosphere. This process generates marine aerosols that influence cloud formation, radiative forcing, and atmospheric chemistry, with shoreline breaking particularly enhancing aerosol emissions near coastal zones.^[13] The resulting sea spray aerosols can travel far inland, impacting regional air quality and weather patterns.^[11] From a human perspective, breaking waves are essential to coastal dynamics, where they drive sediment transport through undertows and longshore currents, shaping beach morphology and influencing erosion or accretion patterns over seasonal and storm timescales.^[14] They also form the foundation of surfing, providing the predictable, energy-rich curls that define the sport and support coastal tourism economies.^[2] Furthermore, the kinetic energy released during breaking is harnessed in wave energy converters, such as shoreline devices that capture hydraulic pressure from crashing waves to generate electricity, offering a renewable resource with potential to power thousands of households.^[15] Quantitatively, breaking waves dissipate a substantial portion of the energy transferred from wind to the ocean surface, with global estimates indicating that they account for over 50% of the approximately 57 TW of annual wind energy input to waves, primarily through deep-water breaking processes totaling around 33 TW.^[16]

Formation

Wave Evolution Leading to Breaking

As ocean waves propagate from deep water toward the shore, they undergo shoaling, a process where decreasing water depth causes the waves to slow down, their wavelength to shorten, and their height to increase in order to conserve energy flux. This transformation begins when the water depth d becomes less than half the wavelength L (i.e., d < L/2), marking the transition from deep-water to intermediate-water conditions where the seabed begins to influence wave motion.^[17]^[18] In typical coastal settings, this leads to a progressive buildup of wave amplitude over distances of several kilometers, with the wave period remaining relatively constant.^[19] Once in shallower water, nonlinear effects dominate the wave evolution, causing the wave profile to steepen as the higher-velocity crests advance faster than the troughs due to nonlinear effects, where the phase speed depends on wave amplitude. This asymmetry arises because particle velocities under the crest exceed those under the trough, resulting in a forward-leaning wave front that becomes increasingly unstable.^[20] Studies of nonlinear shallow-water waves confirm that this steepening is exacerbated in regions where the Ursell number (a measure of nonlinearity) exceeds unity, promoting higher harmonics and further distortion of the wave shape.^[21] External factors such as wind forcing, ocean currents, and bathymetric variations significantly modulate this evolution by amplifying wave instability. Offshore winds can enhance wave growth through momentum transfer, accelerating the onset of steepening, while opposing currents may increase effective wave height by altering relative propagation speeds.^[22] Bathymetry, including reefs or sandbars, induces rapid depth changes that intensify shoaling and nonlinear interactions, often leading to localized wave focusing and heightened breaking potential.^[23] The overall timeline of wave evolution spans from generation in deep water, where fetch-limited growth under wind action establishes initial wave fields, to nearshore transformation. In deep water (d > L/2), waves propagate linearly with minimal distortion over hundreds of kilometers; upon entering the coastal zone (typically within 5-10 km of shore), shoaling and nonlinearity drive rapid changes over 1-5 km, culminating in conditions ripe for breaking.^[24] This progression is observed in field measurements across various coastal environments, highlighting the interplay of these processes in setting the stage for wave collapse.^[25]

Breaking Criteria

Breaking waves initiate when specific quantitative thresholds in wave parameters relative to water depth are exceeded, marking the transition from stable propagation to instability. A primary steepness criterion, derived from Stokes wave theory, predicts breaking when the ratio of wave height H to wavelength L surpasses 0.14 in deep water conditions, where the water depth is much greater than half the wavelength.^[26] In shallower water, Miche's criterion extends this limit as H/L = 0.142 \tanh(kh), where k = 2\pi/L is the wave number and h is the water depth; this approximates to H/h \approx 0.89 in very shallow conditions, indicating depth-induced breaking when the wave height approaches 89% of the local depth.^[26] This threshold arises from the condition where orbital velocities at the wave crest equal the phase speed, leading to instability.^[26] Depth-limited breaking further constrains the maximum sustainable wave height, with empirical observations confirming H_b \approx 0.78 d at the breakpoint, where H_b is the breaker height and d is the local water depth.^[27] This limit, originally proposed by McCowan for solitary waves, has been widely adopted for periodic waves in shallow water, providing a practical bound for coastal engineering predictions; slight variations exist, such as 0.75d in some early formulations, but 0.78d aligns with theoretical solitary wave stability analyses.^[27] Updated models incorporate nonlinearity via the Ursell number Ur = H L^2 / d^3, where Ur > 25 indicates the cnoidal wave regime, characterized by strong nonlinearity that enhances wave steepening and increases the potential for breaking in intermediate to shallow depths, transitioning from linear to nonlinear regimes.^[28] The seabed slope also modulates breaking thresholds, influencing the dominant breaker type without altering the core steepness or depth limits. On gentler slopes (ratios of 1:50 to 1:100), spilling breakers predominate as waves gradually destabilize, while steeper slopes (>1:10) promote plunging breakers through rapid height growth.^[29] This dependence is captured by the surf similarity parameter \xi = \tan \beta / \sqrt{H_0 / L_0}, where \beta is the slope angle, with \xi < 0.4 favoring spilling and \xi > 0.4 favoring plunging, though detailed type classifications are addressed elsewhere.^[29]

Types

Spilling Breakers

Spilling breakers are characterized by a progressive dissipation of wave energy, where the crest spills forward gradually over the wave face, generating a foamy, turbulent front as the top portion of the wave moves faster than the underlying water.^[30] This type of breaking produces a long, white-water zone along the advancing front, with the instability developing slowly across the crest rather than abruptly.^[3] Visually, spilling breakers appear as a gentle crumbling or spilling of the wave top, often extending over a significant distance offshore, and are most commonly observed on beaches with gentle slopes, typically less than 1:50 (or gradients around 0.02 or flatter).^[31] These breakers form in intermediate to shallow water depths where wave steepness increases gradually due to shoaling, allowing the instability to spread laterally along the crest length without a sudden collapse.^[32] The process begins with the formation of small-scale capillary waves on the leeward side of the wave toe, leading to a bore-like structure that evolves into widespread spilling as the wave height grows proportionally to the decreasing depth.^[33] This gradual buildup contrasts with more explosive breaking on steeper slopes, such as plunging breakers, where the curl forms more rapidly. The energy release in spilling breakers is slow and distributed across the surf zone, involving minimal vertical plunge and primarily horizontal spilling that dissipates momentum through turbulence and foam production.^[29] This distributed mechanism results in lower peak energy dissipation rates compared to other breaker types, making spilling common in wind-driven seas or long-period swells approaching sandy, dissipative beaches.^[34] Examples include prevalent conditions on gently sloping sandy shores during moderate swells, such as those observed on dissipative beaches in regions like Hawaii's north shore under non-extreme wave conditions.^[30]

Plunging Breakers

Plunging breakers are characterized by the wave crest curling over the front face, forming a distinctive tube or barrel that plunges forward and collapses onto the trough, often entraining air into a cavity beneath the overturning sheet.^[35] This dramatic motion creates a forceful cascade of water, producing explosive white foam and sometimes geysers upon impact, making them visually striking and highly sought after in surfing for their tubular rides.^[30] These breakers typically form on beaches with moderate bottom slopes, ranging from approximately 1:50 to 1:20, where shoaling causes rapid wave steepening.^[36] The overturning occurs when the horizontal particle velocity at the crest exceeds the wave's phase speed, leading to instability and the forward pitching of the crest.^[37] Energy dissipation in plunging breakers is intense and localized, primarily through turbulence generated by the impacting jet, which breaks down the organized wave energy into chaotic motion.^[38] This process often produces strong undertows as water is drawn back seaward beneath the breaking front, contributing to the formation of rip currents in the surf zone.^[39] Prominent examples include the waves at Pipeline Beach (also known as Banzai Pipeline) in Hawaii, where plunging breakers curl over shallow coral reefs during large swells, creating hazardous yet iconic tubes.^[40] Similarly, Jeffreys Bay in South Africa features world-class plunging waves on its moderately sloped point breaks during peak southern ocean swells.^[41]

Collapsing Breakers

Collapsing breakers represent an intermediate form of wave breaking, positioned between plunging and surging types, where the wave crest collapses vertically onto the trough without developing a pronounced forward-curling tube. This results in a shock-like failure of the wave front, producing a sudden vertical surge of water that impacts the underlying wave surface and generates localized turbulence. Unlike spilling breakers, which dissipate energy gradually with significant foam production, collapsing breakers exhibit less aeration but a more abrupt collapse than surging waves, often manifesting as a near-vertical drop of the crest mass.^[31]^[30] These breakers typically form on moderately steep beach slopes ranging from 1:20 to 1:10, where increasing wave steepness and bottom friction lead to instability in the wave front, causing it to topple downward rather than curl or spill progressively. This transitional regime arises in environments where the surf similarity parameter indicates intermediate conditions, bridging the dynamics of gentler spilling and steeper plunging waves. The relation to beach slope aligns with established breaking criteria, influencing the precise location and intensity of the collapse.^[42]^[43] The energy release during a collapsing breaker involves moderate turbulence generated by the falling crest, which entrains air and creates a hydraulic jump-like structure that rapidly dissipates kinetic energy into heat and mixing. This process is common in transitional beach profiles, where the interplay of wave height and bottom topography promotes such vertical collapses over gradual dissipation. Observations of collapsing breakers are prevalent on gravel or mixed-sand beaches, which often feature these intermediate slopes and variable sediment mobility.^[44]^[45]^[46]

Surging Breakers

Surging breakers occur when waves approach the shoreline and surge forward as a nearly intact bore, with the wave front steepening but without developing significant crest instability or overturning. The wave runs up the beach rapidly, often forming a wall of water that withdraws seaward without forming a turbulent whitewater curl or jet. This type is visually distinct, appearing as a smooth, rushing advance and retreat rather than a chaotic break, and is most common on very steep beach slopes greater than 1:10, where the seabed slope β exceeds 0.1.^[47]^[48] These breakers form in reflective coastal environments with very shallow water depths near the shore, allowing the wave base to advance quickly and the crest to remain stable enough for reformation on the backwash. They typically develop from long-period swells incident on steep foreshores, where the surf similarity parameter ξ > 2, indicating a dominance of beach slope over wave steepness that prevents full energy release through turbulence. Minimal energy loss occurs per wave cycle, as the wave does not fully dissipate upon reaching the shore but instead reflects a significant portion of its energy seaward.^[47]^[49] Energy dissipation in surging breakers is low compared to other types, primarily occurring through bottom friction during the swash and backwash on the beach face, which allows the wave form to be preserved longer across multiple cycles. Unlike more dissipative breakers such as spilling or plunging, surging waves maintain much of their structure, leading to high reflection coefficients that can exceed 0.8 in these conditions.^[49]^[50] Surging breakers are typical on rocky or steep shingle beaches during calm to moderate conditions, such as the rocky shores of Westcombe Beach in South Devon, UK, or the steep, boulder-strewn coasts of New England like those around Acadia National Park in Maine.^[34]

Physics

Hydrodynamics of the Breaking Process

The hydrodynamics of the breaking process in surface waves involves complex fluid instabilities that transition from nearly irrotational flow to highly rotational and turbulent regimes. At the onset of breaking, flow instability manifests as the generation of vorticity and shear layers at the wave crest, primarily due to the nonlinear steepening of the wave profile. This leads to wave overturning, where the crest curls forward as the fluid particles at the surface begin to move faster than the underlying wave propagation. In inviscid models based on the Euler equations, breaking initiates when the horizontal fluid particle velocity at the crest exceeds the wave phase speed, marking the kinematic criterion for instability.^[51]^[52] A related dynamic criterion, proposed by Phillips (1985), states that breaking occurs when the downward acceleration of fluid particles at the crest exceeds gravitational acceleration.^[53] As breaking progresses, turbulence generation becomes dominant, characterized by the formation of a turbulent breaking bore and the development of a surface roller. In plunging breakers, the overturning crest forms a forward-propagating jet that impinges on the preceding water surface, creating intense shear and vorticity concentrations. Velocity fields in this region exhibit peak speeds in the jet reaching up to 2-3 times the phase speed, driving rapid mixing and energy transfer to smaller scales. The roller dynamics involve organized vortical structures that evolve into broadband turbulence, with coherent eddies contributing to the overall flow reversal beneath the crest.^[54]^[52]^[55] Air entrainment accompanies this turbulent breaking, injecting bubbles into the water column and forming a foamy whitecap with significant void fractions up to 50% near the surface. Bubbles are primarily entrained at the jet impact in plunging breakers or along the spilling toe in milder breaks, leading to a subsurface plume. Models such as Thorpe's scale describe the bubble size distribution, where the mean radius of entrained bubbles typically ranges from 1-2 mm, influencing gas exchange and dissipation rates, with larger bubbles rising quickly and smaller ones persisting deeper due to turbulence.^[56]^[57]^[58] Laboratory flume experiments, often employing particle image velocimetry (PIV) for detailed velocity mapping, highlight three-dimensional instabilities during breaking that are underrepresented in two-dimensional theories. These studies reveal oblique wave crests and spanwise variations in the roller, leading to asymmetric vorticity distribution and enhanced turbulence not fully captured by depth-integrated or planar models. In contrast, field observations indicate greater variability due to wind and bathymetry effects, but confirm the core mechanisms observed in controlled settings.^[59]^[60]^[61]

Energy Dissipation and Wave Transformation

When a wave breaks, a significant portion of its energy is dissipated through turbulence and mixing in the upper ocean layers. The dissipation rate ε_b for breaking waves is approximated by the formula

\varepsilon_b = \frac{B^3 f}{16\pi} \rho g \int_0^\infty H^3 p_b(H) \, dH,

where ρ is the water density, g is gravitational acceleration, f is the wave frequency, B is an empirical coefficient (typically around 1), and p_b(H) is the probability density function of breaking wave heights. This parameterization, derived from empirical models of surf zone energetics, captures the average rate of energy loss per unit area during the breaking process. For monochromatic waves, it simplifies to a form proportional to ρ g H^3 f / (16 π).^[62] Following the initial break, the wave transforms into a turbulent bore that propagates shoreward, with the bore height typically reducing by 20-50% over one wavelength due to ongoing frictional and turbulent dissipation within the surf zone. This decay is more pronounced on steeper slopes, where plunging breakers lead to faster energy loss, compared to spilling breakers on gentler slopes that exhibit gradual height reduction. The resulting bore maintains a sawtooth profile, contributing to further energy transformation as it interacts with the bottom boundary layer.^[29] Wave breaking also alters the frequency spectrum of the wave field by preferentially dissipating energy at high frequencies, where steeper wave components are more susceptible to instability and breakage. This selective removal leads to a broadening of the overall spectrum, reducing peakiness and limiting the development of swell in fetch-limited conditions, such as near coastal generation areas. In contrast, lower-frequency energy persists longer, influencing long-range propagation patterns.^[63] Estimates of global breaking wave dissipation are obtained through in-situ measurements with wave buoys, which capture local turbulence and height decay, and satellite altimetry, which provides broad-scale observations of significant wave height and breaking probability. These techniques yield an average global dissipation rate of approximately 68 TW, representing a key sink in the ocean energy budget and highlighting the role of breaking in modulating air-sea interactions.^[64]

Impacts and Applications

Environmental Effects

Breaking waves play a pivotal role in coastal erosion by mobilizing and transporting sediment along shorelines through longshore currents generated in the surf zone. Globally, these processes redistribute an estimated 10 to 20 billion tonnes of clastic sediment annually from continental sources to coastal systems, with breaking waves responsible for the majority of littoral transport.^[65] Plunging breakers, in particular, exert concentrated hydraulic forces on cliff bases, accelerating retreat rates in soft-rock coasts to 0.01–1 m per year by undercutting and removing talus debris.^[66] This erosion contributes to habitat loss and infrastructure threats, as seen in regions with intermediate beach profiles where plunging waves dominate.^[67] The turbulence from breaking waves profoundly affects intertidal habitats, disrupting communities of algae and invertebrates while simultaneously enhancing environmental conditions in some ways. High-energy breakers scour the substrate, dislodging sessile organisms like mussels and snails, which significantly disrupts populations in exposed zones during storms.^[68] Conversely, wave-induced mixing enhances nutrient uptake by macroalgae through reduction of the diffusive boundary layer around fronds, improving competitive advantages for productive species in the low intertidal.^[69] These dual effects lead to zonation patterns, with resilient, wave-adapted communities dominating areas of frequent breaking, while scour limits diversity in fragile assemblages.^[70] During hurricanes, breaking waves amplify storm surges by contributing wave setup and runup, elevating water levels by 0.6–1.2 m through radiation stress gradients in the nearshore.^[71] In Hurricane Katrina (2005), this wave-breaking contribution was significant, adding to the overall surge that reached over 8 m in parts of the Mississippi coast and exacerbating inland flooding across 230 km of shoreline.^[72] Such amplification transforms moderate surges into catastrophic events, with onshore momentum from plunging and collapsing breakers pushing water farther inland.^[73] Over long timescales, breaking wave types influence beach morphology and coastal evolution. Spilling breakers on dissipative beaches, characterized by gentle slopes, promote gradual sediment deposition in the swash zone, building berms that act as natural buffers against erosion.^[74] In contrast, surging breakers on reflective beaches maintain steep profiles by reflecting wave energy with minimal dissipation, preserving linear foreshores and cusps through high runup and limited offshore transport.^[75] These dynamics sustain equilibrium forms, with spilling enhancing accretion on wide, low-gradient shores and surging reinforcing narrow, coarse-sediment fronts.^[76]

Human Uses and Engineering

Breaking waves play a central role in human recreation, particularly surfing, where plunging breakers are prized for their formation of tubular sections that allow riders to experience the "barrel" or tube ride. These breakers, characterized by a curling crest that plunges forward, provide the dynamic conditions ideal for advanced maneuvers, contrasting with gentler spilling breakers suited to beginners.^[77] Surfing originated as a cultural practice among Polynesians, with the activity deeply embedded in Hawaiian society as he'e nalu (wave sliding) and first documented by European explorers in the late 1700s during Captain James Cook's voyages.^[78] By the 20th century, surfing evolved into a global sport, with modern competitions like those organized by the World Surf League (WSL) held at venues renowned for specific breaker characteristics, such as Pipeline in Hawaii for plunging waves.^[79] The global surfing industry, encompassing tourism, equipment, and events, supports an economic value exceeding $68 billion in surfing tourism alone as of 2025, driving coastal economies through lessons, apparel, and travel.^[80] Safety in surfing relies on forecasting breaker types, with lifeguards using environmental assessments—including wave steepness and beach slope—to predict hazardous conditions like plunging breakers that increase rip current risks and spinal injuries.^[81]^[82] In renewable energy applications, breaking waves offer a harnessable resource through technologies like oscillating water columns (OWCs), which capture the pneumatic energy from wave-induced air compression in a chamber. These devices convert the oscillatory motion near the breaker zone into electricity via turbines, with prototypes demonstrating viability in nearshore environments. For instance, the Oceanlinx greenWAVE OWC prototype, deployed off Australia, was rated at 1 MW but achieved peak outputs around 321 kW under optimal conditions, highlighting the potential for scaling to contribute to coastal power grids.^[83]^[84] OWCs are particularly effective in locations with consistent spilling or plunging breakers, as the breaking process amplifies air flow, though challenges like biofouling and storm survivability persist in commercial deployment.^[85] Coastal engineering leverages breaking waves for protection by designing structures that promote energy-dissipating breaker types, such as breakwaters and groins, to mitigate erosion and flooding. Breakwaters, often constructed as rubble-mound or submerged barriers, induce spilling-like dissipation by reducing wave height and steepness, significantly dissipating incoming energy before it reaches the shore.^[86]^[87] Groins, perpendicular to the shoreline, trap sediment and alter wave patterns to favor spilling breakers on adjacent beaches, stabilizing coastlines in areas prone to longshore drift. Numerical models like SWAN (Simulating WAves Nearshore) are essential for predicting breaker locations and types, simulating wave propagation, shoaling, and breaking to optimize structure placement and performance.^[88]^[89] These interventions balance protection with environmental considerations, ensuring long-term resilience against sea-level rise and intensified storms.

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Re-examination of Breaker-Type Classification on Uniformly Inclined ...
(1976). GALVIN (1968), who introduced collapsing breakers and performed wave-flume experi- ments using three beach slopes with a gradient of 1/20, 1/10, and 1/5 ...
[42]
View of Breaker Types and Wave Reflection Coefficient: Laboratory Relationships
**Summary of Collapsing Breakers, Slope Ranges, Formation, Energy:**
[43]
Energy dissipation in waves breaking on gentle slopes - ScienceDirect
This supports the use of the hydraulic jump formulation for the breaking wave energy dissipation. A correction to this formulation, which takes into account the ...Missing: collapsing | Show results with:collapsing
[44]
Influence of Beach Nourishment on Morphological Parameters ...
Mar 5, 2025 · The shift toward surging and collapsing breakers increases wave reflection, further disrupting normal wave breaking and negatively affecting ...Littoral Environment · Beach Nourishment At Long... · Methods<|separator|>
[45]
Gravel Beaches - Coastal Wiki
Feb 24, 2023 · The steep beach gradient allows waves to progress much closer inshore before breaking, often resulting in a single plunging breaker.
[46]
Surf similarity parameter - Coastal Wiki
Jan 11, 2025 · The surf similarity parameter thus represents approximately the ratio of the seabed steepness and the steepness of the breaking wave.Missing: ξ > | Show results with:ξ >
[47]
[PDF] TECHNICAL COMMUNICATION - Florida Online Journals
and collapsing breakers, and between collaps- ing and surging breakers ... (1/20-110,5) gearbeitet wurde, zeigten, daf3 die Grenzen fur verschiedenc ...
[48]
[PDF] a review of techniques for calculating energy losses in breaking waves
This report reviews techniques for calculating energy losses in breaking waves, focusing on wave height, energy dissipation, and methods for hand calculations ...
[49]
Breaker Types and Wave Reflection Coefficient
Jan 22, 1996 · ... ξ0 is the surf similarity parameter. The breaker type is linked with this equation through the value of ξ0. The reflection coefficient ...
[50]
File:Plunging breaker (Sand Beach, Mt. Desert Island, Maine, USA ...
Cliff-like, rocky shorelines have breakers that crash in large sprays of water. Locality: marine shoreline at Sand Beach, Mt. Desert Island, Acadia National ...
[51]
An experimental study of deep water plunging breakers
Sep 1, 1996 · Plunging breaking waves are generated mechanically on the surface of essentially deep water in a two‐dimensional wave tank by superposition ...
[52]
A numerical study of plunging breakers in the nearshore area under ...
Nov 15, 2024 · This study aims to understand the role of wind effects on developing plunging waves in the nearshore region.
[53]
Experimental study on plunging breaking waves in deep water - Lim
Feb 6, 2015 · Results show that the maximum velocity in the plunging breaker reached 1.68C at the first impingement of the overturning water jet with C being ...Missing: exceeds | Show results with:exceeds
[54]
[PDF] The velocity field under breaking waves: coherent structures and ...
Jun 7, 2019 · Digital particle image velocimetry (DPIV) measurements of the velocity field under breaking waves in the laboratory are presented.Missing: roller | Show results with:roller
[55]
On the clouds of bubbles formed by breaking wind-waves in deep ...
The bubbles are diffused down to several metres below the surface by turbulence against their natural tendency to rise. Measurements have been made at two sites ...
[56]
[PDF] Scale dependence of bubble creation mechanisms in breaking waves
The size distribution of the entrained bubbles is the most important factor in controlling these processes, but little is known about bubble properties and ...
[57]
Air entrainment by breaking waves - Deike - 2017 - AGU Journals
Apr 17, 2017 · Among these processes, breaking waves play an important role by entraining bubbles into the ocean. The dynamics and statistics of breaking waves ...Missing: regulation | Show results with:regulation
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[PDF] Laboratory Measurements of Three-Dimensional Breaking Waves
Aug 6, 1999 · In this dissertation, the breaking wave criteria and energy losses are addressed in Chapter 2 using the surface displacement measurements. In ...
[59]
[PDF] 3D flow measurements in regular breaking waves past a ... - Unipr
The experimental measurement of fluid velocity in breaking waves or complex flows started with hot films and laser Doppler velocimetry (LDV) in a single ...
[60]
[PDF] Structure of the turbulent flow field under breaking waves in the surf ...
The generation of such a large amount of vorticity under breaking waves gives rise to some conspicuous effects on the velocity field and thus on the breaking ...
[61]
[PDF] Transformation of Wave Height Distribution - UH Currents Group
Jul 20, 1983 · dissipation in a breaking wave is modeled after a periodic bore. The rate of energy dissipation per unit area for each bore using the ...
[62]
Spectral Energy Balance of Breaking Waves within the Surf Zone in
This analysis indicates that the observed decay of wave spectra in the surf zone is primarily the result of nonlinear energy transfers to higher frequencies.
[63]
Observations of Breaking Wave Dissipation and Their Relationship ...
Jun 12, 2025 · Ocean surface waves mediate the kinetic energy input to the ocean from the wind. Globally, approximately 70 TW of wind energy goes into the ...
[64]
Chapter Two Clastic Sediment Supply to the Shore: Processes and ...
The amount of sediment supplied annually by the world's rivers has been estimated at 10–20 billion ... longshore sediment transport under the joint effects ...
[65]
Rocky coast processes: with special reference to the recession of ...
This paper provides the state of the art review in the recession studies and highlights two new findings obtained from the reanalysis of existing data.
[66]
[PDF] Spatial and temporal trends in California coastal cliff retreat
May 25, 2022 · Airborne LiDAR datasets were used to measure erosion and retreat along 866 km of California coastal cliffs between 2009–2011 and 2016.Missing: accelerate | Show results with:accelerate
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[PDF] Survivorship of a High Intertidal Snail Following Wave Dislodgement
ABSTRACT. Waves breaking on rocky shorelines impart large forces on intertidal organisms, sometimes dislodging individuals. Dislodged individuals may be ...
[68]
Wave energy and intertidal productivity - PNAS
On exposed shores, waves increase the capacity of resident algae to acquire nutrients and use sunlight, augment the competitive ability ofproductive organisms, ...
[69]
[PDF] Survival in the Surf Zone
the repeated impact of breaking waves. size. Figure 3. Size of a wave-swept ... turbance, mussels in the mid-intertidal zone can be dislodged by waves.
[70]
[PDF] Modeling the physics of storm surges
Sep 8, 2008 · But even on shallow slopes, the wave contribution could still be significant; waves added about 2–4 feet. (0.6–1.2 m) to the surges during ...
[71]
[PDF] The Storm - The Climate Change and Public Health Law Site
Mar 26, 2007 · Hurricane Katrina produced unparalleled wave and storm surge ... contribution of breaking waves to storm surge was significant for Katrina.
[72]
Hurricane Impacts Due to Storm Surge, Wave, and Coastal Flooding
As the wave heights increase, the waves eventually break and impart their momentum to the water, causing onshore flow near the surface and offshore flow or “ ...
[73]
Coastal Processes and Beaches | Learn Science at Scitable - Nature
As sediment is deposited in the swash zone it can build a berm, a near horizontal to slightly landward-dipping sand surface, the area where most people sit when ...
[74]
Morphodynamics of reflective and dissipative beach and inshore ...
Reflective systems are characterized by steep, linear beach faces, well-developed berms and beach cusps, and surging breakers with high runup and minimum setup ...Missing: spilling build
[75]
Shoreface profile - Coastal Wiki
Apr 20, 2025 · The shoreface is bordered on the landward side by the beach face. This is the zone where under average conditions waves collapse and run up the ...
[76]
How and Why Do Waves Break? - OMBE Surf Coaching
Rating 5.0 (347) As a result, when plunging waves break, it's a violent yet beautiful sight to behold: the crest of the wave will curl further along the trough and create a tube ...
[77]
What type of breaker is the best for surfing? A. Plunging ... - Brainly
Nov 16, 2023 · The best type of breaker for surfing is the A) Plunging breaker. A plunging breaker occurs when the ocean floor has a sharp slope. As the wave ...
[78]
https://www.acmebeachandbike.com/surfing-little-bit-history/
[79]
World Surf League - The global home of surfing
Get surfing news, watch live surfing events, view videos, athlete rankings and more from the world's best surfers on the world's best waves.2025 Event Schedule · Watch · WSL Rankings: Best Surfers... · Lexus Pipe Pro
[80]
Growth Trends in the $68+ Billion Surfing Tourism Market, 2025 ...
May 16, 2025 · Surfing tourism among international travelers is projected to grow at a CAGR of 6.5% from 2025 to 2030. Solo travelers contributed to a revenue ...
[81]
The science of waves - RNLI
Sep 4, 2020 · There are two types of breaker: a spilling breaker and a plunging breaker. 'A spilling breaker is a gentle breaking wave and occurs on flat ...
[82]
Rip current generation and management implications in south Florida
May 31, 2018 · ... breaker type, wind speed, and wind direction. The lifeguards collecting the data were veterans with decades of experience identifying rip ...
[83]
Comprehensive review on the feasibility of developing wave energy ...
OceanLinx device near Kembla port in Eastern Australia (Zhang et al. 2021). Also, it has a capacity of generating 321 kW within a short duration of 7 s to 2 min ...
[84]
Waves for future energy - Sustainability Matters
May 20, 2009 · Oceanlinx's core technology is an oscillating water column (OWC) device, based on the established science of wave energy, but one which ...
[85]
A review of oscillating water columns - Journals
Jan 28, 2012 · This paper considers the history of oscillating water column (OWC) systems from whistling buoys to grid-connected power generation systems.
[86]
How Do Breakwaters Work? Science Behind Coastal Protection
May 26, 2025 · Breakwaters work to reduce wave energy by up to 80%, creating calmer zones that prevent coastal erosion and protect marine infrastructure.
[87]
Breakwaters, Headlands, Sills, and Reefs (U.S. National Park Service)
Apr 5, 2019 · A breakwater is an offshore shore-parallel structure that “breaks” waves, reducing the wave energy reaching the beach and fostering sediment accretion.
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Modelling coastal hydrodynamics - Coastal Wiki
Nov 7, 2021 · SWAN is a phase-averaged wave model which is less or not applicable in regions where complex phenomena occur within relatively short distances, ...
[89]
[PDF] APPLICATION OF THE SPECTRAL WAVE MODEL SWAN IN ...
SWAN (Simulating Waves Nearshore) is a third-generation numerical wave model to simulate the random, short-crested, wind-generated waves in coastal re- gions ...