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Cheer cheese

Cheer Cheese is an Australian cheddar cheese brand manufactured by Saputo Dairy Australia, rebranded in 2021 from the long-established Coon Cheese to address concerns over the original name's unintended associations with a racial epithet.^[1] The Coon name originated from Edward William Coon, an American cheesemaker who patented a ripening process in 1926 that was later adopted for the product, with the brand launching in Australia in the 1930s using this method to produce a distinctively flavored cheddar.^[2]^[3] Saputo's decision followed years of pressure from activists, despite the company's prior defense of the name's historical basis, aiming to align with contemporary values of inclusion while preserving the cheese's signature taste derived from the original recipe.^[1]^[4] Marketable in blocks and slices, Cheer Cheese is positioned for versatile use in meals like toasties, pasta bakes, and snacks, retaining popularity as an everyday staple among Australian consumers.^[5]

History

Origins of the cheese-making process

The cheese-making process central to Cheer cheese originated with a patented ripening method invented by American cheesemaker Edward William Coon (1871–1934) of Philadelphia. Coon, a produce merchant specializing in dairy, developed the technique to accelerate cheese maturation while preserving quality, addressing limitations in traditional slow-aging methods that often led to moisture loss, rind rot, and inconsistent flavor development.^[6]^[2] Coon filed for the patent on February 27, 1926, with U.S. Patent No. 1,579,196, titled "Process for Ripening Cheese," granted on March 30, 1926. The method involved placing freshly made cheese—typically with 36% to 40% original moisture content—in a controlled ripening chamber supplied with humidified air at temperatures between 45°F and 75°F and relative humidity of 65% to 95%. A specific embodiment called for 55°F to 70°F temperatures combined with 75% to 90% humidity, fostering the growth of beneficial lactic bacilli to enhance digestibility and flavor without excessive drying. This approach reduced ripening time compared to conventional cold-storage techniques, which relied on drier air and lower temperatures prone to defects.^[6]^[7] Subsequently known as the "Cooning process," it emphasized high humidity and moderate heat for efficient maturation, enabling producers to achieve a mild yet developed cheddar-style cheese more rapidly and reliably. While the patent did not explicitly name it as such, industry adoption attributed the accelerated ripening to Coon's innovation, distinguishing it from earlier empirical practices lacking precise environmental controls. This method formed the foundational technique later licensed and adapted for the original Coon cheese production in Australia starting in 1935, predating broader industrialized cheese advancements.^[7]^[8]

Introduction and early branding in Australia

The Kraft Walker Cheese Company, a partnership between Australian entrepreneur Fred Walker and American James L. Kraft, introduced Red Coon cheese to the Australian market in 1931 as a processed cheddar utilizing Edward William Coon's patented ripening method from 1926.^[9]^[8] This product was manufactured under license from Kraft Foods, with Walker adapting Kraft's processed cheese techniques for local production, marking an early effort to produce mature, rindless cheddar suited to Australian tastes and climate.^[8] Early branding emphasized the "Red Coon" name, derived directly from Edward Coon's surname to honor his cheesemaking innovation, with the cheese initially coated in red wax to seal and distinguish it during ripening and distribution.^[10]^[11] This red wax coating not only preserved the cheese's quality by preventing drying but also served as a visual trademark, aligning with common 1930s dairy packaging practices that used color-coded wraps for brand recognition in retail settings.^[12] Marketing positioned Red Coon as a reliable, everyday table cheese, produced from Australian milk at facilities like those in Victoria, supporting local dairy farmers amid growing domestic demand.^[4] By the late 1930s and into the 1940s, the brand gained traction as a staple in Australian households, with production scaling through Kraft Walker's expansion, including a new factory in Brisbane by 1951 featuring specialized cool storage for Red Coon.^[10] The branding evolved minimally during this period, retaining the red motif even as wax was gradually supplanted by cellophane wrappers, while the name underscored the technical heritage of Coon's process over any regional or cultural connotations.^[12] This foundational marketing focused on product durability and flavor consistency, contributing to its status as one of Australia's early mass-market cheeses before broader ownership shifts.^[11]

Branding evolution and ownership changes

The Coon cheese brand originated from the cheesemaking operations of Edward William Coon, which were acquired by Kraft Australia in 1928, leading to the introduction of Red Coon cheese in 1931. Ownership of the brand subsequently transferred through entities including Kraft-Walker and Lion Dairy before becoming associated with Warrnambool Cheese and Butter Factory Company Holdings Limited (WCB), the primary producer.^[10]^[8] In October 2013, Canadian dairy company Saputo Inc. launched an unconditional all-cash takeover offer for WCB at A$7.00 per share, culminating in Saputo acquiring a majority stake by February 2014 after a competitive bidding process involving Australian firms Bega Cheese and Murray Goulburn. This marked a significant ownership change, with Saputo gaining control over WCB's production facilities in Allansford, Victoria, where Coon cheese was manufactured. Saputo's majority ownership has remained in place since, enabling expanded dairy operations in Australia.^[13]^[14]^[15] Branding for the product evolved minimally until the late 2010s, retaining the Coon name tied to its cheddar varieties marketed as "tasty" cheese in Australia. On July 24, 2020, Saputo Dairy Australia announced the retirement of the Coon brand following an internal review, citing a commitment to inclusivity amid external pressures. The rebranding to Cheer was officially unveiled on January 13, 2021, with the new name intended to evoke positivity while honoring the product's heritage; full transition to Cheer packaging on shelves began in June 2021.^[16]^[1]^[9]

Developments leading to rebranding

In the late 1990s and early 2000s, academic Stephen Hagan initiated a sustained campaign against the Coon cheese name, contending that "coon" had evolved into a racial epithet derogatory toward Indigenous Australians and people of African descent, despite its origin as a reference to American cheesemaker Edward William Coon. Hagan's advocacy spanned over 20 years, encompassing petitions, media outreach, and unsuccessful Federal Court challenges against prior owners Kraft Foods (until 2014) and later Saputo Dairy Australia, which acquired the brand in 2014.^[2]^[3] Tensions escalated in 2020 amid global Black Lives Matter demonstrations following the death of George Floyd on May 25, 2020, which amplified scrutiny of brand names perceived as racially insensitive. Indigenous groups and activists amplified calls for change, citing the term's connotations as a barrier to reconciliation, while Saputo received complaints from consumers and stakeholders highlighting reputational risks.^[17]^[2] On July 24, 2020, Saputo Dairy Australia announced it would discontinue the Coon name, stating the decision followed extensive consultations and aimed to "help eliminate racism" by addressing community offense, even as the company maintained the original intent was non-derogatory. This marked a departure from prior resistance by owners, influenced by shifting cultural norms and potential boycotts, setting the stage for selecting and implementing a new brand identity.^[3]^[2]

Production

Coon's patented ripening method

Edward William Coon, an American cheesemaker from Philadelphia, invented a process for accelerating cheese ripening by utilizing controlled humidified air circulation, which he patented under US Patent No. 1579196.^[6] The patent application was filed on February 27, 1926, and granted on March 30, 1926.^[6] The core of Coon's method targets cheddar-style cheeses with an initial moisture content of 36% to 40%, subjecting them to temperatures ranging from 55°F to 70°F within a ripening chamber, combined with relative humidity levels of 75% to 90%.^[6] Humidified air is continuously supplied and circulated through appropriate conduits to envelop the cheese evenly, maintaining atmospheric conditions that foster lactic acid bacteria proliferation while minimizing evaporation.^[6] Broader applications of the patent extend to temperatures of 45°F to 75°F and humidity from 65% to 95%, adaptable to varying cheese types.^[6] This approach diverges from conventional cold-storage ripening, which often occurs at lower temperatures around 50°F with drier conditions, by leveraging warmer, moister environments to expedite maturation—typically reducing the time required for full flavor development from months to weeks—without inducing mold, rind rot, or excessive drying.^[6] The process enhances digestibility and imparts a superior, consistent tanginess by preserving internal moisture and promoting beneficial microbial activity over harmful pathogens.^[6] Coon's technique, subsequently termed the Cooning process, formed the basis for the proprietary ripening employed in the production of what became known as Coon cheese (later rebranded Cheer) after he licensed or sold the patent rights to Australian manufacturers in the 1920s, enabling scalable output of high-quality, fast-aged cheddar.^[17]^[6]

Modern manufacturing and varieties

Cheer cheese is produced at the Warrnambool Cheese and Butter factory in Allansford, Victoria, Australia's oldest continuously operating dairy processor established in 1888 and majority-owned by Saputo Dairy Australia since 2013. The manufacturing process utilizes milk sourced exclusively from local Australian dairy farmers, with the facility capable of handling up to 1.4 million liters of milk daily to yield approximately 145 tonnes of cheese per 24-hour cycle.^[18] Production adheres to industrial-scale cheddar cheesemaking, beginning with pasteurization of raw milk to eliminate pathogens, followed by coagulation via addition of starter cultures and rennet to form curds and whey. Curds are then cut, stirred, drained, milled to expel additional whey, salted for preservation and flavor, and pressed into molds before undergoing controlled ripening in temperature- and humidity-regulated environments to develop the characteristic sharp, crumbly texture of Australian "tasty" cheddar.^[19] This process builds on the brand's historical accelerated ripening technique, enabling efficient maturation while maintaining quality standards for export and domestic markets.^[1] Modern operations emphasize automation and process control for consistency, including real-time monitoring of parameters like pH, temperature, and moisture to minimize variability across batches. Saputo's integration has expanded capacity and hygiene protocols, aligning with global food safety standards such as HACCP, though specific proprietary details on post-2021 enhancements remain undisclosed in public records. The cheese is packaged on-site or at affiliated facilities, with some slicing and shredding performed to meet retail demands.^[18]^[20] Cheer cheese varieties primarily consist of cheddar styles tailored for Australian preferences, offered in blocks, slices, and shreds for versatility in household and foodservice applications. Core offerings include Tasty (a mature, full-flavored cheddar), Light and Tasty (reduced-fat variant), and specialized shreds such as Aussie Jack (a Monterey Jack blend for melting), Thick & Tasty (extra-mature shreds), and Parma Blend (optimized for parmigiana toppings with enhanced meltability).^[21]^[22] Blocks typically range from 500g to 1kg for general grating and cooking, while slices (e.g., 200g packs of 8-10) suit sandwiches and toasting, and shreds (750g-2kg bags) target bulk meal prep. These formats support uses from breakfast toasties to dinner casseroles, with all products retaining the brand's emphasis on local sourcing and consistent taste profile post-rebranding in 2021.^[23]

Naming origins and controversy

Etymology and historical intent

The name "Coon" for the Australian cheese brand originated from the surname of Edward William Coon (July 31, 1871 – January 12, 1934), an American cheesemaker and produce merchant from Philadelphia, Pennsylvania.^[17]^[7] Coon patented a cheese-ripening process on April 27, 1926 (U.S. Patent No. 1,579,196), which involved sealing cheese in paraffin-coated wrappers under controlled temperature and humidity conditions to accelerate maturation without traditional aging cellars, producing a milder, creamier cheddar-like product in weeks rather than months.^[6]^[24] Australian manufacturer J.S. Davies Pty Ltd licensed this "Coon process" and launched the cheese in 1935, adopting the name to directly associate the product with the patented method and its inventor, emphasizing the innovative technology as a key selling point for efficient, high-quality production.^[17]^[7] The historical intent was commercial and technical: to leverage the prestige of a proven American innovation for branding a new Australian dairy export, with no documented connection to racial or derogatory connotations at the time of inception, as the surname predated widespread modern sensitivities and derived from Coon's family lineage unrelated to ethnic slurs.^[24]^[4] Subsequent owners, including Saputo Dairy Australia, affirmed this etymological basis in public statements, attributing the name solely to the cheesemaker's identity and process.^[24]

Activist criticisms and campaigns

Dr. Stephen Hagan, an Indigenous Australian activist and academic, spearheaded a two-decade campaign against the Coon cheese brand name, beginning in the early 2000s by writing to its successive owners—Dairy Farmers, Warrnambool Cheese and Butter, and Saputo Dairy Australia—asserting that "coon" evoked a racial slur offensive to Aboriginal people and people of color.^[2]^[3] Hagan dismissed the brand's etymological link to American inventor Edward William Coon, instead interpreting it as a deliberate "racist joke" rooted in derogatory connotations that had persisted since the cheese's Australian introduction in 1926.^[25] His efforts gained traction amid the 2020 Black Lives Matter protests following George Floyd's death, which amplified calls to remove perceived symbols of racism from consumer products.^[3] Other Indigenous voices, such as Noel Walker, reinforced these criticisms, arguing that the name's prominence in supermarkets created an environment of racial discomfort for First Nations shoppers, regardless of its historical patent origins, and decrying social media defenses as openly racist.^[26] No formal organizational campaigns from major Indigenous groups were prominently documented, with activism largely driven by individuals like Hagan, whose lobbying pressured Saputo to announce a rebrand on July 23, 2020, stating it would help "eliminate racism from our society."^[2]^[3] Post-announcement, Hagan reported receiving abusive online backlash from opponents labeling him a "professional activist," yet he maintained the change addressed a long-standing grievance amplified by media coverage in outlets like ABC and The Guardian, which framed the issue within broader anti-racism efforts.^[27] Critics of the campaign, including conservative commentators, questioned its empirical basis, noting limited evidence of widespread Indigenous offense prior to 2020 and highlighting potential corporate capitulation to vocal minorities over historical intent.^[28]

Diverse viewpoints on the name

Supporters of retaining the "Coon" name emphasized its historical origins, tracing back to Edward William Coon, an American cheesemaker who patented a process for producing cheddar with controlled eye formation in 1903, which Australian manufacturers adopted in the 1920s.^[3]^[29] They argued that the brand, launched in Australia around 1930 by the Kraft Walker Cheese Company, bore no intentional racial connotation at inception, predating modern sensitivities to the term's slur usage, and that contextually it evoked quality cheese rather than offense for most consumers over decades of sales.^[16] Saputo Dairy Australia, the owner since 2014, initially defended the name in 2020 by highlighting consumer attachment and the lack of malice in its etymology, noting in a public statement that they weighed "comments from consumers who cherish the brand" against complaints.^[16]^[30] Critics, including Indigenous Australian activist Stephen Hagan, contended that "coon" functions as a derogatory epithet for Black people and Aboriginal Australians, evoking minstrel-era racism regardless of origin, and that its persistence normalized harm in everyday products.^[4]^[2] Hagan's 20-year campaign, starting around 2000 and involving legal challenges against prior owners, framed the name as a symbol of systemic insensitivity, amplified by associations with U.S. racial caricatures, and urged rebranding to "eliminate racism" amid 2020's heightened social justice focus.^[3]^[29] Some Indigenous voices, like cultural consultant Noel Walker, echoed this by linking the term to historical trauma, though broader Australian public opinion appeared divided, with surveys and commentary indicating many non-Indigenous consumers viewed complaints as overstated given the name's innocuous use for nearly a century without widespread prior backlash.^[31] Opposition to changing the name often highlighted free speech and cultural overreach, with commentators arguing that retroactively deeming a neutral historical term offensive erodes heritage without addressing root causes of prejudice, as evidenced by sustained consumer loyalty to "Coon" packaging even after the 2021 shift.^[29] Saputo's deliberations, spanning months in 2020, reflected this tension, balancing activist pressure—intensified post-George Floyd protests—with data showing no sales dip from the name and resistance from loyalists who saw rebranding as corporate pandering to minority outrage rather than empirical need.^[16]^[32] These perspectives underscore a divide between intent-based defenses rooted in verifiable brand history and connotation-based critiques prioritizing contemporary emotional impact, with mainstream outlets like ABC and The Guardian predominantly amplifying the latter through activist narratives.^[2]^[3]

Rebranding decision and implementation

Saputo Dairy Australia initially announced on July 24, 2020, that it had decided to retire the COON brand name following community feedback and thorough consideration, with plans to develop a new name that would honor the product's legacy while aligning with contemporary societal values.^[16] On January 13, 2021, the company revealed the new brand as CHEER Cheese, stating the change reinforced its commitment to respect and non-discrimination.^[1] ^[4] Lino A. Saputo, Chair and CEO of Saputo Inc., emphasized that "treating people with respect and without discrimination is one of our basic principles," framing the rebranding as a step to foster acceptance, inclusion, and respect.^[1] The selection of "CHEER" resulted from consumer research conducted by Saputo Dairy Australia, chosen for evoking positivity, joy, and good cheer in line with the brand's Australian heritage.^[4] Commercial Director Cam Bruce noted that the name positioned CHEER Cheese as a product "for everyone," intended to bring "that extra little bit of happiness" to consumers without altering the recipe or production process, which continued using Australian milk processed in Victoria.^[1] The rebranding responded to long-standing activist campaigns, including those led by Stephen Hagan since the early 2000s, which highlighted perceived offensive connotations, though the original name derived from American cheesemaker Edward William Coon.^[4] ^[17] Implementation involved redesigning packaging and transitioning inventory, with the new CHEER Cheese products rolling out to Australian supermarket shelves nationwide starting in July 2021.^[1] ^[4] Initial appearances of updated packaging occurred as early as June 2021 in some locations, marking the full replacement of COON-branded items over subsequent months. The company maintained production continuity at its facilities, ensuring no interruption in supply beyond the branding update.^[1]

Post-rebranding impacts

Sales and market performance

Following the rebranding from Coon to Cheer in July 2021, the product maintained its position as Australia's leading cheddar cheese brand by market share. Prior to the change, Coon held an 8.9% share of the Australian cheese market; by the end of 2021, Cheer had increased this to 9%, and it further rose to 9.2% in 2022, reflecting sustained consumer demand despite the name alteration.^[9]^[34] Saputo Dairy Australia, the owner of the brand since its 2014 acquisition of Warrnambool Cheese and Butter, reported an overall annual loss of $54.4 million for the fiscal year ending March 31, 2023, contrasting with a $30.6 million profit the prior year. Company executives attributed the downturn primarily to elevated raw material costs, including higher milk prices, rather than the rebranding.^[9]^[34] Critics, including Sky News host Rowan Dean, contended that the rebrand contributed to softer sales for Cheer specifically, citing job layoffs at production facilities and a broader "go woke, go broke" narrative tied to consumer backlash against the name change. However, independent market data indicated no erosion in the brand's competitive standing, with Cheer continuing to outsell rivals in the tasty cheddar segment through at least 2023.^[35]^[34]

Consumer and cultural reception

The rebranding of Coon's Cheese to Cheer Cheese in January 2021 elicited a polarized consumer response in Australia, with significant backlash from those who viewed the change as an overreaction to historical naming rather than genuine racism. Many loyal customers expressed frustration, continuing to refer to the product informally as "Coon cheese" in everyday language and recipes, as evidenced by public discussions and viral incidents such as a Sydney chef's 2023 video defending the old name, which drew both support and criticism.^[36] This resistance highlighted a cultural divide, where the rebrand was seen by some as capitulation to activist pressure amid broader debates on "woke" corporate decisions, while supporters praised it for promoting inclusivity.^[37] Sales performance post-rebrand showed initial challenges but sustained market leadership. Reports in late 2022 indicated a slump attributed to consumer boycotts over the name change, leading to layoffs at Saputo Dairy Australia, with television host Prue MacSween claiming the decision alienated traditional buyers who prioritized the product's heritage.^[35] However, by April 2023, retailer Coles confirmed no lasting sales impact, with Cheer remaining the top-selling cheddar brand in Australia, suggesting that brand loyalty and product quality outweighed naming controversies for a majority of purchasers. Culturally, the rebrand fueled discussions on identity, heritage, and offense in Australian media and public discourse, often framed as part of a wave of corporate rebrandings like Aunt Jemima or Eskimo Pie. The activist behind the long campaign, Stephen Hagan, reported receiving abusive messages from opponents post-announcement, labeling them "rednecks," which underscored tensions between urban progressive views and rural or traditionalist sentiments.^[27] Despite the company's stated goal of fostering "a culture of acceptance," ongoing informal use of the original name in households and among older demographics indicated limited cultural assimilation of the change, with some consumers stockpiling old packaging or switching to competitors perceived as less yielding to external pressures.^[1]

Business and societal implications

The rebranding from Coon to Cheer imposed substantial financial burdens on Saputo Dairy Australia, encompassing expenses for redesigning packaging, relabeling inventory, revising marketing campaigns, and overhauling distribution logistics for a product with over 80 years of market presence.^[39] These costs were compounded by the need to phase out existing stock and educate consumers on the transition, occurring amid broader industry pressures like supply chain disruptions from COVID-19.^[9] Post-rebranding sales data indicated sustained market strength, with Cheer retaining its status as Australia's top-selling cheddar block cheese; market share rose marginally from 8.5% prior to the change to 9% in 2021 and 9.2% in 2022, countering predictions of significant decline.^[34] ^[9] While some media outlets reported sales slumps and workforce reductions at production facilities, attributing them to consumer backlash against the rename, company analyses linked performance challenges primarily to pandemic-related factors rather than the branding shift itself.^[35] ^[9] This outcome underscored the risks of alienating loyal customers tied to historical branding while potentially broadening appeal to demographics sensitive to linguistic associations. On a societal level, the episode highlighted corporate incentives to preempt reputational damage from activist-driven narratives framing innocuous historical names as inherently derogatory, even when rooted in proper nouns like the surname of cheese ripening pioneer Edward William Coon.^[40] Saputo's decision, announced on January 13, 2021, aligned with a wave of global rebrands amid heightened scrutiny of racial connotations, but it fueled debates over erasing non-malicious heritage in favor of preempting offense.^[1] Critics argued it exemplified undue influence by narrow advocacy groups, potentially discouraging preservation of factual etymologies in commercial contexts.^[4] Certain Indigenous Australians, including commentator Noel Walker, voiced that the original name held no personal offense in its cheese-specific usage and critiqued the ensuing online vitriol as more harmful than the branding itself, revealing fractures in public discourse on cultural sensitivity.^[26] The rebrand thus amplified broader tensions between empirical historical intent and subjective modern interpretations, with some viewing it as a step toward linguistic purification and others as a concession that prioritizes perceived equity over verifiable neutrality.^[41] In Australia, where the product originated in the 1930s via Warrnambool Cheese and Butter Factory, it prompted reflections on how multinational ownership—Saputo's Canadian parent company—navigates local cultural legacies under global activist pressures.^[17]

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