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Devils Tower

Devils Tower is a steep-sided igneous composed of , rising 867 feet (264 meters) from base to summit above the surrounding terrain in northeastern 's Black Hills region. This formation exhibits the world's largest example of , resulting from the cooling and contraction of molten rock intruded underground approximately 40 million years ago. Proclaimed the first U.S. on September 24, 1906, by President via the , it protects this unique geologic feature amid the Belle Fourche River valley. The Tower holds central spiritual importance for at least 20 Native American tribes, serving historically as a site for vision quests, ceremonies, and oral traditions predating European arrival by thousands of years. Renowned among climbers for its challenging routes—first ascended via wooden ladder in 1893—it draws annual voluntary closures in June to respect tribal observances, highlighting ongoing tensions between recreational access and cultural reverence.

Physical Characteristics and Geology

Location and Dimensions

Devils Tower is situated in Crook County, northeastern , , within Devils Tower National Monument, approximately 28 miles northwest of Sundance along Wyoming Highway 24. The monument encompasses 1,347 acres surrounding the tower, which protrudes from the surrounding plains near the Belle Fourche River in the Black Hills uplift region. Its geographic coordinates are approximately 44°35′26″N 104°42′55″W. The tower measures 867 feet (264 meters) from its base to . It rises 1,267 feet (386 meters) above the Belle Fourche River valley floor. The summit elevation is 5,112 feet (1,558 meters) above . At the base, the diameter is approximately 1,000 feet (305 meters), tapering upward to a summit plateau roughly 180 feet (55 meters) east-west by 300 feet (91 meters) north-south, covering about 1.5 acres.

Geological Origin and Composition

Devils Tower consists primarily of , a fine-grained characterized by large phenocrysts of alkali feldspar and other minerals embedded in a groundmass rich in feldspathoids such as and . This rock type formed from silica-poor, alkaline , distinguishing it from more common granitic intrusions. The porphyry exhibits , with hexagonal columns formed as the rock cooled and contracted, a process analogous to that seen in basaltic formations but unique in scale and composition here. The Tower originated as an intrusive igneous body during the Eocene epoch, approximately 50 million years ago, amid a period of alkaline associated with the uplift. intruded into overlying sedimentary layers of Spearfish Formation and newer strata, likely forming a —a mushroom-shaped pluton that domed the surface rocks—or a similar stock. Subsequent over millions of years stripped away the softer surrounding sediments and any overlying volcanic cover, exposing the resistant core that now rises 867 feet (264 meters) above the Belle Fourche River valley. While the laccolithic intrusion model predominates in official assessments, alternative hypotheses persist, including proposals that the Tower represents an eroded volcanic neck, a lava coulée within a phreatomagmatic , or a remnant of a lava lake. These views stem from interpretations of the rock's texture, lack of associated volcanic ejecta, and regional igneous patterns, but lack consensus due to limited direct evidence of the original emplacement depth or surface expression. Geochemical analysis confirms the phonolite's intrusive crystallization under subvolcanic conditions, supporting an origin below the paleosurface rather than purely extrusive.

Etymology and Naming

Historical Naming

The butte was initially recorded on European-American maps as "Bear's Lodge," a direct translation of the Lakota term Mato Tipila, by Lieutenant G. K. Warren during his 1857 expedition to the Black Hills. This designation reflected indigenous nomenclature associating the formation with bear-related oral traditions, and it appeared consistently as "Bear Lodge" or "Bears Lodge" on most U.S. government and exploratory maps from 1857 until 1901. The name "Devils Tower" originated in 1875 during a military expedition led by Colonel Richard Irving , accompanied by Henry Newton, when an interpreter—possibly named Romeo—mistranslated a Native American reference to the site as "Bad God's Tower" or a similar ominous phrase, prompting Dodge to adopt the anglicized version in his field . Dodge's personal antipathy toward may have contributed to favoring a name evoking menace over the prior neutral translation, though the exact phrasing stemmed from the interpretive error rather than deliberate fabrication. The term gained traction through Dodge's subsequent publications, which described the formation's imposing presence, shifting public and cartographic preference away from "Bear Lodge" by the early . By 1890, the U.S. General Land Office referenced the feature interchangeably as "Devils Tower" and "Bear Lodge Butte" in official surveys, reflecting transitional usage. The U.S. Board on Geographic Names, established that year to standardize nomenclature, formalized "Devils Tower" without the possessive apostrophe in line with its policy against such forms for natural features, solidifying its dominance. This culminated in President Theodore Roosevelt's September 24, 1906, proclamation establishing Devils Tower National Monument, which enshrined the name in federal law and rendered prior variants obsolete in official contexts.

Modern Renaming Proposals and Debates

In 2014, a Nation spiritual leader submitted a proposal to the Board on Geographic Names (BGN) to rename the geologic feature Devils Tower and the nearby populated place Devils Tower, , to Bear Lodge, reflecting indigenous terminology such as the "Mato Tipila" used on historical maps from 1874 to 1901. In December of that year, the Oglala Sioux Tribe requested that the Secretary of the Interior change the national monument's name to Bear Lodge National Monument, asserting that the term "Devils" offends more than 20 associated tribes who regard the site as sacred. Proponents of renaming argue that "Devils Tower" stems from a late-19th-century mistranslation during an military expedition, where an interpreter rendered an reference to a "bad " or grizzly bear-related lore as "devil," and that reverting to Bear Lodge honors pre-colonial without altering the site's cultural significance. In 2024, the of the Interior's Reconciliation in Place Names , chaired by Rosebud Tribe member Howard Dale Valandra, voted to recommend renaming the feature to Bear Lodge, citing sustained tribal advocacy since 1998 and the authority of to standardize geographic names. Opposition has centered on preserving the name's historical and economic , with officials and contending that a change would disrupt reliant on the established brand—recognized nationally since President Theodore Roosevelt's 1906 designation—and risk prioritizing one indigenous translation over diverse tribal variants. Senator introduced S. 267 in February 2023 to retain "Devils Tower" and delay BGN action until at least January 2025, followed by her and Senator John Barrasso's reintroduction of similar legislation in January 2025 as part of efforts dating to 1996. As of October 2025, no renaming has occurred, with the lacking unilateral authority and ongoing bills effectively stalling federal processes; public consultations on the 2024 recommendation were solicited in September 2024, but legislative protections for the original name persist amid unresolved tensions between cultural reverence and practical continuity.

Indigenous Associations

Tribal Connections and Oral Traditions

Over two dozen Northern Plains tribes maintain ancestral connections to Devils Tower, including the , , , , , and , with documented historical uses such as winter camps by the dating to at least 1816, vision quests, Sun Dances, healing ceremonies, and occasional burials. These ties reflect seasonal occupancy for hunting, gathering, and spiritual practices, reinforced by ongoing modern ceremonies where prayer bundles and cloths are placed along trails, underscoring the site's enduring sacred status. Tribal oral traditions, transmitted across generations, commonly portray the tower as a protective formation arising from the during pursuits by bears, leaving distinctive claw-like striations on its columns; these narratives, varying by yet sharing motifs of and transformation, explain the site's geological features through symbolic rather than empirical origins. Names like Mato Tipi (Lakota for "Bear Lodge"), "Bear's Tipi" ( and ), and Tso-aa (Kiowa for "Tree Rock") derive from these accounts, emphasizing bears as central figures in creation stories tied to the landscape. Specific narratives include the account, recorded from elder Sherman Sage in 1932, where two girls find a bone that transforms them into s; one pursues their siblings, prompting a rock to grow skyward for refuge, forming "Bear's ." The Cheyenne tradition, per storyteller Young-Bird from the Lame Deer Reservation, describes a bewitching a into a bear form, slain by s atop an emerging rock named "Bear Lodge." oral history, from Ride-The-White-Hip-Horse in 1932, recounts s chasing two girls saved by a rising rock they claw in frustration, also termed "Bear's " or "Bear Lodge." Kiowa lore, documented by I-See-Many-Camp-Fire-Places in 1897, features seven girls fleeing s on a growing rock, ascending as the constellation. In Lakota tradition, as related by Short Bull in 1932, a conducting rites on Mato Tipila uncovers ancient marks, affirming the site's role in worship and revelation. These stories, collected from tribal elders, illustrate cultural reverence without uniform detail, prioritizing spiritual lessons over literal chronology.

Evidence of Pre-Columbian Use

Archaeological surveys conducted at Devils Tower National Monument have documented prehistoric human activity dating back to the Late Paleoindian period around 12,000 BCE, primarily in the surrounding high meadows rather than on the Tower itself. The Devils Tower High Meadows Prehistoric Archaeological District, registered on the in 2001, encompasses 14 contributing sites northwest of the Tower, featuring lithic scatters indicative of hunting, tool manufacturing, and short-term camping. These sites yielded projectile points such as Agate Basin (circa 10,000 BCE) and (circa 8250 BCE), alongside flakes and tools suggesting resource processing near water sources and vantage points. Further evidence includes obsidian artifacts analyzed via , with 19 of 35 specimens tracing to distant sources like Obsidian Cliff in , Mineral Mountain, and locations in and , pointing to long-distance exchange networks among prehistoric inhabitants. Projectile points from later periods, including Pelican Lake, Besant, and Avonlea types (spanning Late Plains Archaic to Late Prehistoric, approximately 3000 BCE to AD 1500), were recovered, supporting intermittent occupation for subsistence activities like . Hearth features and two rock art panels painted with red ochre on nearby granite outcrops provide additional signs of fire use and possible ceremonial practices. A 1979 survey by archaeologist Bruce Jones identified early lithic tools in the meadows, while late 1990s evaluations by the documented at least 70 sites monument-wide (with estimates up to 200 accounting for erosion), 19 of which qualify for National Register eligibility under Criterion D for yielding information on prehistoric lifeways. Recent geophysical surveys, including funded in 2023, detected over 200 subsurface features consistent with prehistoric structures and activity areas, reinforcing patterns of seasonal use by mobile groups. Overall, these findings indicate sustained but episodic pre-Columbian utilization of the area for practical and potentially spiritual purposes, though large-scale excavations remain limited due to the site's sacred status to associated tribes.

Historical Development

Early European Exploration

The first documented sighting of Devils Tower by occurred during William F. Raynolds' Yellowstone Expedition in 1859, when members of the party reached the formation while surveying the region for potential wagon roads and military routes westward. Earlier expeditions, such as Lieutenant G. K. Warren's 1857 survey through the , approached the area but likely did not observe the tower due to the expedition's route and terrain constraints. Subsequent military explorations in the 1870s brought increased attention to the site amid U.S. expansion into the northern . George Armstrong Custer's 1874 , prompted by reports of gold, passed near Devils Tower, noting prominent landmarks in the vicinity as part of broader reconnaissance efforts. This was followed in 1875 by Colonel Richard Irving Dodge's expedition, which traversed the area shortly after Custer's gold discoveries drew settlers and military interest; Dodge's party directly encountered the tower, measuring its prominence and recording detailed observations of its isolated rising approximately 867 feet above the surrounding terrain. Dodge's interpreter rendered the Lakota name Mato Tipi (Bear Lodge) as "Bad God's Tower," which Dodge anglicized to "Devils Tower" in his 1876 publication The Black Hills, emphasizing its striking igneous rock columns and the local indigenous associations with spiritual peril. These accounts, derived from U.S. Army surveys, marked the transition from incidental observation to formal documentation, facilitating later cartographic inclusion and federal interest, though the expeditions prioritized resource assessment over geological study.

Federal Designation and Management

President proclaimed Devils Tower National Monument on September 24, 1906, utilizing the authority granted by the of June 8, 1906, which empowered the president to protect significant natural, historic, and scientific features on federal lands. This designation marked the first use of the act and established Devils Tower as the inaugural in the United States, encompassing approximately 1,153 acres surrounding the igneous formation to preserve its geological integrity. The monument is administered by the (NPS), a within the U.S. Department of the Interior, which assumed management responsibilities as part of its mandate to oversee national monuments and parks following the agency's creation in 1916. NPS implements a General Management Plan to guide resource protection, visitor services, and operational zoning, with updates informed by environmental impact statements, such as the 2002 Final General Management Plan and Development Concept Plan addressing congestion, circulation, and cultural resource preservation. Key management regulations include mandatory free permits for climbing activities above the talus slopes, registration with rangers, and prohibitions on drones to minimize disturbance to wildlife and visitors; these measures enforce the monument's enabling legislation and superintendent's compendium, prioritizing ecological and cultural conservation. Access remains public with an entrance fee, though parking and facilities are limited, reflecting NPS efforts to balance preservation with recreational use amid increasing visitation.

Environmental Features

Climatic Conditions

The climate of Devils Tower National Monument is marked by extreme variability typical of northeast Wyoming's semi-arid continental conditions, with rapid shifts possible throughout the year. Annual average high temperatures stand at 60°F and lows at 28°F, while total precipitation averages 17.2 inches of rain supplemented by 55 inches of snowfall. Summer months ( to ) bring hot, dry weather with average highs of 79–87°F and lows of 47–52°F, alongside monthly rainfall ranging from 1.5 to 3.2 inches, though severe thunderstorms, , and high winds pose risks. Winters (December to February) are cold and snowy, featuring average highs of 34–40°F and lows of 4–10°F, with frequent light snow accumulation of 8.1–11.4 inches per month and potential for blizzards or white-out conditions. Record extremes include a high of 108°F in and a low of -48°F in , underscoring the potential for sub-zero temperatures and triple-digit heat. Spring and fall serve as transitional periods with average highs of 45–69°F and lows of 17–38°F, where mixed and unpredictable shifts demand preparedness for all seasonal elements.

Flora, Fauna, and Ecosystems

Devils Tower National Monument preserves a segment of the ecosystem, featuring ponderosa pine forests amid surrounding mixed-grass prairies and riparian zones along the Belle Fourche River. This transitional landscape supports diverse habitats, with forests covering higher elevations and prairies dominating lower areas, fostering interactions between woodland and grassland species. The monument hosts over 500 native and non-native plant species, which stabilize soils, prevent erosion, and serve as primary producers in the food web. Dominant flora includes Pinus ponderosa (ponderosa pine) in forested stands, alongside shrubs like chokecherry (Prunus virginiana) and serviceberry (Amelanchier alnifolia), which provide food and cover for wildlife. Prairie areas feature grasses such as little bluestem (Schizachyrium scoparium) and wildflowers including pasque flower (Pulsatilla ludoviciana), blooming prominently in spring. Over 50 non-native plants, including invasive species like leafy spurge (Euphorbia virgata) and houndstongue (Cynoglossum officinale), compete with natives and require management to maintain ecological balance. Mammalian fauna includes white-tailed deer (Odocoileus virginianus), mule deer (O. hemionus), and black-tailed prairie dogs (Cynomys ludovicianus), which are among the most visible residents and form key prey bases. Other mammals, such as porcupines (Erethizon dorsatum), red squirrels (Tamiasciurus hudsonicus), and occasional black bears (Ursus americanus), utilize forested habitats, while pronghorn (Antilocapra americana) and coyotes (Canis latrans) roam open prairies. Avian species diversity encompasses nesting prairie falcons (Falco mexicanus) on the tower's columns, bald eagles (Haliaeetus leucocephalus) along the river, and ground-nesting species like sage grouse (Centrocercus urophasianus) in adjacent grasslands. Reptiles such as bullsnakes (Pituophis catenifer sayi) and amphibians including chorus frogs (Pseudacris triseriata) occupy varied microhabitats, with insects like butterflies supporting pollination. Fish in the Belle Fourche River, including channel catfish (Ictalurus punctatus), contribute to aquatic components. Ecosystem dynamics reflect the monument's small size (1,347 acres), limiting large predator populations like mountain lions (Puma concolor), though transient individuals occur. Heavy browsing by deer impacts woodlands, comprising 18% of the area, potentially altering composition. Overall underscores the site's role as a prairie-forest , with ongoing monitoring tracking like the 472 documented to assess health amid variability and invasives.

Human Engagement

Climbing Practices and Records

The first recorded ascent of Devils Tower occurred on July 4, 1893, when ranchers William Rogers and Willard Ripley constructed a wooden ladder from pegs and rope to reach the summit. This non-technical method preceded the monument's establishment and relied on the structure's columnar joints for ladder placement. The inaugural technical climb took place on June 28, 1937, led by with Lawrence Coveney and William House, who employed ropes, pitons, and traditional techniques to summit without fixed ladders. This ascent marked a shift toward alpine-style climbing on the tower's porphyry columns, emphasizing crack systems and minimal artificial aids. Subsequent decades saw proliferation of routes, with 19 documented lines by 1964 accommodating 79 parties. Climbing practices at Devils Tower require mandatory registration with the (NPS) for any activity above the talus slopes, ensuring oversight of approximately 5,000 annual ascents. Participants must adhere to regulations prohibiting new bolts or fixed pitons, gear abandonment, and violations of seasonal closures, including a voluntary ban honoring Native American ceremonies with over 85% compliance in its inaugural year. Routes predominantly feature , with multi-pitch efforts spanning 4 to 6 pitches and demanding endurance for heights up to 867 feet. Notable records include the oldest verified summit by 91-year-old in 2018, surpassing prior marks like 87-year-old Robert Kelman's 2015 climb. Speed records highlight Todd Skinner's 18-minute ascent in 1994 via free-solo techniques on established routes. These feats underscore the tower's enduring appeal for crack specialists, though safety protocols mitigate risks on its exfoliating columns.

Incidents, Safety, and Regulations

Climbing at Devils Tower National Monument is regulated under federal guidelines outlined in 36 CFR § 7.30, requiring mandatory registration with a park ranger prior to ascending above the talus slopes; registrants must also check out upon descent. Prohibited activities include leaving gear on the Tower, camping or bivouacking on its surface, using power drills or motorized equipment for bolting, and any form of route modification such as chipping or gluing. Additionally, since 1995, a voluntary closure of all climbing routes occurs each June to respect the site's sacred status for 20+ Native American tribes, resulting in an average 85% reduction in climbing activity during that month. Certain routes may also be seasonally closed for peregrine falcon nesting, typically in spring. Safety is the climber's personal responsibility, as the activity involves inherent risks including , extreme temperatures exceeding 100°F (38°C), , and sudden storms; climbers are advised to monitor weather forecasts and avoid exposure during thunderstorms. Helmets are strongly recommended, and most fatalities occur during rappels, necessitating thorough anchor inspections and often the use of two 60-70 meter ropes for descent. In emergencies, climbers should call or signal for assistance, with park rangers available for rescue coordination but no guarantees of rapid response due to the Tower's isolation. Over the Tower's more than 100-year climbing history, only seven fatalities have been recorded despite approximately 6,000 ascents annually. Notable incidents include a 1986 free-solo fall resulting in a fatal , a 1995 unroped 150-foot fall, a 1996 100-foot fall without a on the Durrance Route, a 1999 rappel off the rope end causing a 130-foot plunge, a 2003 350-foot rappel fall near El Cracko Diablo, and a , 2024, rappel accident claiming the life of a 21-year-old climber, leaving their partner temporarily stranded until . These events underscore rappel errors and lack of protective gear as primary causes, with no fatalities reported between 2003 and 2024 prior to the latest incident. Visitor numbers at Devils Tower National Monument have shown a marked upward trend in recent years, with recreational visits reaching a record 550,000 in 2021, surpassing previous highs driven by post-pandemic travel surges. Visitation remained elevated thereafter, totaling 540,890 in , reflecting sustained interest in the site's geological prominence and cultural significance despite seasonal fluctuations, with the majority of arrivals concentrated in summer months. Through June alone, 192,682 visitors were recorded, exceeding comparable periods from prior years like 2021. This growth has prompted planning for expanded infrastructure to accommodate future increases, amid broader tourism recovery. Tourism generates substantial economic contributions to surrounding communities in , primarily through visitor expenditures on , food, and . In 2024, 540,890 visitors spent $41.7 million locally, bolstering the regional economy as part of Wyoming's system total of $1.2 billion in spending. Earlier data indicate consistent impacts, with 499,000 visitors in contributing $31.1 million in direct spending and $38.7 million in overall economic output, including multiplier effects from supply chains. Comparable figures for 2023 hovered around $37.5 million, underscoring tourism's role as a key driver in an area with limited diversification, supporting businesses in nearby towns like and Sundance. These benefits derive from the monument's draw as a day-trip destination within 60 miles of gateways, though they remain vulnerable to external factors like fuel prices and national travel patterns.

Representations in Media

Devils Tower gained international prominence through its central role in the 1977 Close Encounters of the Third Kind, directed by . In the narrative, the formation is portrayed as the extraterrestrials' designated site for with humanity, revealed through a musical sequence of five tones. Protagonist Roy Neary, played by , obsessively recreates the tower's shape from mashed potatoes after UFO sightings, culminating in a mass convergence at the landmark for the film's resolution. Actual filming occurred on location at Devils Tower , elevating its visibility as a symbol of mystery and otherworldly phenomena. The film's success, grossing over $300 million worldwide on a $20 million budget, cemented Devils Tower's association with in public imagination, prompting increased and references in subsequent media. This depiction drew from the site's real-world intrigue, including Native American legends and geological uniqueness, though Spielberg's choice amplified speculative extraterrestrial lore without empirical basis. Documentaries have since explored the tower's factual attributes alongside its cinematic legacy, such as Frank and the Tower (), which documents climber Frank Sanders' record-setting ascent and descent via rappel on September 5, 2014, emphasizing human endurance over fiction. Television representations include educational and exploratory formats, such as the National Geographic series Rock the Park episode "Devils Tower National Monument" (2018), where hosts Jack Steward and Colton Smith undertake a climbing challenge to illustrate the site's 867-foot vertical rise and phonolite porphyry composition. The History Channel's The UnXplained featured "Mystery of Devil's Tower" in 2019, examining geological origins alongside cultural myths and the Close Encounters influence, while avoiding unsubstantiated alien claims. These portrayals prioritize verifiable science and history, contrasting the fictional dramatization that popularized the site.

Access Controversies and Litigation

In 1995, the National Park Service (NPS) finalized the Climbing Management Plan (CMP) for Devils Tower National Monument following consultations with over 20 Native American tribes who regard the site, known to them as Bear Lodge or Mato Tipila, as sacred for traditional ceremonies, particularly during June. The plan addressed climbing's impact on these practices by requesting voluntary abstention from all climbing on the Tower during June, prohibiting commercial guiding services and installation of new fixed ropes that month, mandating removal of existing fixed ropes during the period, and enhancing interpretive programs to educate visitors on the site's cultural significance. These measures aimed to balance recreational access— with over 5,000 annual climbers by the mid-1990s—against tribal concerns without imposing a full mandatory closure, as alternatives like permanent bans were rejected in environmental assessments for lacking sufficient justification under the National Environmental Policy Act. The CMP provoked immediate legal challenges from climbing advocates, culminating in Bear Lodge Multiple Use Association v. Babbitt. Filed in 1995 by the Bear Lodge Multiple Use Association—a group of climbers and guides—the suit alleged that the June restrictions violated the Establishment Clause by endorsing Native American religious practices, infringed free speech and equal protection, and exceeded NPS authority under the 1976 General Authorities Act. The U.S. District Court for the District of granted a preliminary against the commercial guiding ban in June 1995, citing potential coercion but upholding the voluntary request as non-coercive accommodation permissible under the and . On summary judgment in 1998, the court ruled the plan constitutional, finding no endorsement of religion since climbers faced no penalties for June ascents and the measures alleviated government-induced burdens on tribal practices without prohibiting climbing outright; the Tenth Circuit affirmed in 1999, emphasizing the voluntary nature and lack of coercion. The U.S. denied in 2000. The CMP, updated in 2006 to refine and without altering core restrictions, remains in effect as of 2025. Voluntary compliance has averaged approximately 85%, reducing climbs that month by thousands compared to pre-1996 levels, with no mandatory enforcement but supported by and tribal consultations. NPS reports sustained high adherence, attributing it to climber respect for cultural sensitivities, though isolated non-compliance persists without litigation since the Bear Lodge resolution. Separate temporary closures occur annually for nesting, unrelated to cultural access issues.

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