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Dry-tooling

Dry-tooling is a specialized form of rock climbing that employs ice axes and crampons to ascend bare rock faces or artificial walls in the absence of ice or snow, effectively merging techniques from traditional rock climbing with those of ice and mixed climbing. This discipline emphasizes precise tool placements into natural features like cracks, pockets, and edges, as well as dynamic body positions to generate leverage and momentum on overhanging terrain. It serves both as a training method to build strength for ice and alpine routes and as a competitive sport in its own right, with routes graded on a scale from D1 (easy) to D16 (extremely difficult). The origins of dry-tooling trace back to the 1990s, when American alpinist Jeff Lowe pioneered the technique during his 1994 ascent of (M8), a mixed route in , where he applied ice tools and to the dry, overhanging rock sections with intentional focus, elevating them to equal status with the icy portions. This innovation stemmed from broader developments in mixed climbing, which combines ice and rock, and quickly evolved into a standalone practice as climbers sought year-round training options and pushed boundaries on pure rock venues. By the early , dry-tooling gained traction in and , with competitions integrated into events like the UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup since 2002, fostering specialized venues and grading systems. Notable advancements include the first D16 route repeat in 2024 by Kevin Lindlau in . In 2025, Bona made the second ascent of Téleios (D16+), the world's hardest dry-tooling route to date, further advancing the sport's limits and global appeal. Key techniques in dry-tooling include hooking tools into rock features, executing figure-four and figure-nine rests (where a or drapes over a tool for body support), and efficient hand switches on axes to extend reach without losing momentum. Climbers prioritize leg-driven movement to conserve strength, testing each placement with a firm yank before committing weight, and often employ modular tools for varied rock angles. Essential equipment comprises technical ice axes (typically leashless with ergonomic handles and removable adzes), mono- or bi-point for front-pointing on steep rock, a for protection against falling tools, snug-fitting gloves to prevent abrasions, and climbing shoes for edging precision. practices emphasize to avoid strains, using protective clothing, and selecting well-bolted routes to mitigate risks from tool dislodgement or ground falls. Today, dry-tooling thrives in indoor gyms for accessibility and outdoor crags like those in the or , attracting athletes who value its blend of power, technique, and mental focus.

Overview

Definition and Principles

Dry-tooling is the practice of using ice axes, hammers, and to climb bare rock surfaces devoid of ice or snow, thereby simulating the challenges of on dry terrain. This discipline emerged as a distinct form of mixed climbing, where climbers ascend steep rock features primarily through tool placements rather than traditional hand and foot holds. It is commonly applied in training scenarios, competitive events, and sport routes on overhanging or technical rock. At its foundation, dry-tooling relies on torque-based hooking, a where the curved pick of an is inserted into narrow cracks, flakes, or irregularities in the and rotated to generate and for pulling upward. This demands precise control to avoid dislodging holds or damaging the . Complementing this, footwork centers on front-pointing with , using the sharp front points for aggressive, pinpoint placements on tiny edges or protrusions, which provides the necessary push to maintain balance on steep walls. These mechanics blend the pulling power of usage with the precision of features, creating a dynamic that emphasizes upper-body engagement and efficient energy transfer. The primary purposes of dry-tooling include preparing climbers for and mixed routes by building upper-body strength, endurance, and specialized skills transferable to frozen conditions. It also enables year-round practice through dedicated dry-tooling routes and artificial walls, particularly in non-winter periods, and supports competitive formats like the UIAA World Tour events. Distinct from traditional , dry-tooling eschews hand jams, friction smearing, or slab techniques in favor of exclusive reliance on tool and crampon interactions. Compared to pure , it eliminates the supportive adhesion of water , forcing climbers to depend solely on rock imperfections for secure placements.

Types of Routes and Styles

Dry-tooling routes are categorized by their setting, protection style, and environmental features, each influencing the climber's approach, technique, and . Competition styles typically involve lead formats in events such as the UIAA Ice Climbing World Tour's dry-tooling category, where athletes attempt to ascend artificial walls or bolted faces designed to simulate challenging mixed . These routes emphasize and , with competitors scored based on the reached—determined by the last clipped and the hold number touched—while employing dry-tooling techniques like tool placements in holds or cracks, under rules that prioritize a clean ascent without falls. Training routes for dry-tooling are divided between purpose-built indoor facilities and outdoor features, allowing climbers to build skills year-round. Indoor walls often feature wooden or resin holds shaped specifically for tool picks, enabling controlled practice of and pulling movements without constraints, as seen in products like DryToolz training tools that attach to standard ice axes for use. In contrast, outdoor occurs on rock features such as cracks or ledges, where climbers hook tools into existing fissures to mimic real-world variability, though this requires careful to minimize rock damage. Dry-tooling routes also differ in protection styles, with sport variants focusing on pure difficulty through fully bolted setups and traditional approaches incorporating removable gear placements. Sport dry-tooling routes, common on designated crags, use pre-placed bolts for quick clipping, allowing climbers to concentrate on technical tool work and steep features without the added of gear selection. Traditional dry-tooling, more prevalent in or exploratory contexts, involves placing removable like cams or nuts into cracks alongside tool hooks, demanding greater route-finding and to protect against falls on insecure terrain. Environmental variations in dry-tooling routes further diversify the discipline, particularly between overhang-heavy systems and more vertical faces, with indoor adaptations addressing seasonal limitations. Overhang routes, such as those in cave-like formations in the , demand powerful, sustained pulling with tools on near-horizontal terrain, often graded D7 or higher due to the technical dry-tooling required over extended sections. Vertical face routes, by comparison, emphasize balance and precise footwork with , typically easier in grade (e.g., D5-D6) but longer in duration, as the upright posture allows for more efficient movement. Seasonal indoor adaptations, using gym walls with dry-tooling holds, enable off-season training during warmer months when natural ice is absent, maintaining fitness for winter mixed .

History

Origins in Ice Climbing

Techniques precursor to dry-tooling emerged in the 1970s and 1980s as practical adaptations by alpine ice climbers in Europe and North America, who began employing ice tool picks and adzes on bare rock during approach pitches or periods of insufficient ice cover. In the Chamonix region of France, local mountain guides from the Peloton de Gendarmerie de Haute Montagne (PGHM) developed early training venues like Le Zoo near Sallanches, a steep, manufactured crag featuring overhanging routes bolted for ice tool use without ice or snow, allowing climbers to simulate challenging winter conditions on rock. Similarly, in the Canadian Rockies, ice climbers drew from waterfall ice techniques honed in the 1970s to navigate mixed terrain, where tools were hooked onto rock features when ice thinned or absent. Key pioneers included Canadian alpinists and Dave Cheesmond, who in the late 1970s and 1980s pushed boundaries by integrating rock-tool placements into major winter routes in the Rockies, building on influences from earlier figures like Bugs McKeith and Tim Auger. Their innovations emphasized precise pick torque on rock cracks and edges, adapting ice tool designs for hybrid use in alpine environments. In Europe, Chamonix-based guides from the PGHM contributed by equipping sites like Le Zoo, fostering deliberate practice among ice climbers facing variable winter conditions. These efforts marked the shift from incidental rock use to structured experimentation with tool placements on dry surfaces. The primary motivations stemmed from the demands of winter ascents in rugged alpine settings, where climbers encountered unavoidable mixed terrain combining ice, snow, and rock, necessitating reliable tool techniques to progress safely. This necessity-driven approach was evident in routes like the 1983 first ascent of in the Canadian Rockies by Blanchard, Cheesmond, and Tim Friesen, which featured sustained mixed pitches blending ice swings with dry-tool placements on overhanging rock. The transition from to deliberate dry- practice arose naturally from encounters with frozen turf, neve, and layers that gave way to exposed , prompting climbers to refine principles—initially rooted in dynamics—for maintaining skills during off-season or low- periods. Early adopters in both regions used these moments to on , hooking tools into turf-tufts or cracks to mimic transitions, thereby enhancing proficiency for full winter objectives without relying on artificial aids.

Key Developments and Milestones

In the 1990s, dry-tooling emerged as a distinct discipline separate from traditional mixed climbing, with Jeff Lowe's 1994 ascent of (M8) in , involving deliberate dry-tooling on a bare rock roof to reach the ice of , marking the genesis of modern dry-tooling. This was followed by and others establishing additional dedicated routes on bare rock in Vail in the late 1990s. The institutionalization of dry-tooling accelerated in the early 2000s through organized competitions. Dry-tooling segments were introduced to the UIAA in 2006 at the Valle di Daone event in , where the lead route incorporated overhanging dry sections to test precision and power, drawing international competitors and elevating the discipline's profile. Concurrently, the Ouray Ice Festival in , founded in 1996, expanded to feature dedicated dry-tooling competitions and clinics by the mid-2000s, fostering community growth and attracting hundreds of participants annually to its artificial and natural venues. Technical breakthroughs defined the era's milestones, particularly the push toward steeper, more overhanging pure-dry routes. In the early , the first M12-graded pure-dry route, "Too Fast, Too Furious," was established by Scott Muir in 2003 at Ravens Craig, , spanning a 40-meter roof and setting a for and hook accuracy in competition-style dry-tooling. The sport's global expansion followed, with dedicated crags and events proliferating in ; by the late , Japan hosted indoor dry-tooling sessions at facilities like BETA Climbing Gym in , while developed outdoor sites in regions like , integrating dry-tooling into broader circuits. Culturally, dry-tooling transitioned from an off-season training method to a recognized competitive pursuit, bolstered by and publications. Will Gadd's 2003 Ice and Mixed Climbing: Modern Technique devoted chapters to dry-tooling fundamentals, including tool sharpening and movement efficiency, which influenced generations of and contributed to its mainstream adoption through films and festival coverage. This era's advancements solidified dry-tooling's role in the climbing world, blending athleticism with innovation while sparking debates on and rock preservation.

Equipment

Ice Tools and Axes

Dry-tooling primarily relies on specialized leashless ice axes optimized for hooking and torquing on rock features rather than penetrating ice. These tools feature lightweight, hydroformed aluminum shafts that provide rigidity and balance for steep, technical routes. Prominent examples include the , which offers modular components for versatility across mixed terrain, and the , designed with customizable elements for steep ice and . Recent innovations, such as the DMM Cortex released in November 2024, feature a CNC-machined profile for enhanced performance in technical mixed and dry-tooling routes. Unlike traditional ice axes, dry-tooling variants emphasize ergonomic handles that facilitate prolonged suspension and efficient pulling motions, enabling climbers to rest weight on hooks during ascents. Tool configurations often include interchangeable heads with either a or for added utility in placing pitons or clearing debris. The ERGONOMIC, for instance, incorporates a minimalist (MINI MARTEAU) alongside an adze option, allowing quick swaps to suit route demands such as hammering protection in cracks. Leashless designs, secured by adjustable wrist loops like the GRIPREST, reduce swing weight and enhance maneuverability, preventing tool drops while supporting dynamic swings. These features promote versatility in dry-tooling, where tools must adapt to varied rock placements without the security of ice penetration. Pick designs are critical for gripping rock cracks and edges, typically featuring curved, aggressive profiles with tapered tips for secure placement. The PUR'DRY pick, for example, has a 3.3 mm tapered tip and 4 mm thickness with a toothed edge to resist rotation in inverted positions. Modular systems, such as Black Diamond's I.C.E. (Integrated Component Exchange), allow swaps between dry-specific picks and those for , enabling one toolset to handle multiple disciplines without compromising performance. This modularity ensures the pick's aggressive curvature bites into thin seams, distinguishing dry-tooling tools from straighter variants. Handle ergonomics prioritize comfort and efficiency, with multi-grip options like mono-point or bi-point configurations to match body positioning. The Petzl NOMIC's double-handle setup includes an upper overmolded grip for insulation and a lower angled handle for protected, powerful pulls, while the adjustable handrest supports three positions for customized fit. Weight distribution centers around 500-700 grams per tool—such as the NOMIC at 585 grams fully equipped or the at 610 grams—to optimize swing efficiency and reduce fatigue on extended routes. These elements allow for stable hand switching and mid-shaft gripping during technical sequences. Maintenance involves regular inspection and sharpening to counteract rock abrasion, which can dull picks and compromise hooking reliability. Picks should be filed to restore their tapered profile, ensuring the tip penetrates cracks without excessive force, and modular designs facilitate easy replacement when wear exceeds safe limits. Tools are used in basic hooking maneuvers to establish holds on bare rock, providing foundational support for progression.

Crampons and Footwear

In dry-tooling, crampons are essential for providing traction and precision on rock surfaces, where climbers rely on edging small holds rather than penetrating ice. Mono-point crampons, featuring a single central front point, are the preferred choice for this discipline due to their ability to precisely slot into cracks, pockets, and edges on rock. For example, the Petzl Dart crampon is specifically designed for dry-tooling and technical mixed climbing, allowing for accurate foot placements on minute features. Recent developments include International Climb Technology (ICT) crampons introduced in 2024, optimized for dry-tooling and competition use. In contrast, traditional horizontal front-point crampons with dual points are better suited for ice climbing, as they offer broader stability for kicking into frozen surfaces but less finesse on rock. Material selection further optimizes performance: lightweight aluminum models reduce overall weight for prolonged efforts, while steel variants provide superior durability against the abrasive wear of rock contact. Attachment systems for dry-tooling prioritize versatility to accommodate specialized . Strap-on bindings are commonly used, as they securely fasten to a wide range of and shapes without requiring rigid welts, making them ideal for pairing with flexible . Many designs incorporate anti-balling plates—small or rubber guards beneath the —to prevent rock debris, , or mud from compacting under the points and reducing grip during upward pulls on steep terrain. These features ensure reliable performance in the dynamic, non-penetrative footwork characteristic of dry-tooling. Footwear selection complements crampon functionality by enhancing sensitivity and control. Soft-soled shoes, often low-profile models referred to as "fruit boots" in the community, are typically worn under crampons to maximize feel for subtle rock features and enable precise edging. For routes blending dry-tooling with mixed ice conditions, hybrid boots offer a balanced solution, combining the downturned shape and sensitivity of rock shoes with added stiffness and insulation for technical demands. Examples include the Kayland Dry Dragon, engineered specifically for dry-tooling and mixed with crampon compatibility in mind. Achieving a secure fit between and is critical to prevent slippage on overhanging rock. Proper sizing involves adjusting the crampon's length so that the front points extend slightly beyond the shoe's toe—typically 1-2 cm—for optimal leverage, while ensuring the heel lever sits flush against the boot's rear welt with no gaps. This overlap minimizes movement during steep maneuvers, and climbers often position the points more forward for dry-tooling compared to ice setups to accommodate the pulling motions involved. Ill-fitting combinations can lead to instability, underscoring the need for on-site adjustments or professional fitting.

Technique

Basic Movements and Body Positioning

Dry-tooling relies on precise techniques to secure ice tools on features without or . Basic involves placing the tool pick horizontally into cracks or vertically onto holds, such as small ledges or pockets, to create stable points for pulling. To enhance grip, climbers apply by twisting the tool with a quick wrist flick, jamming the pick or into the for added friction and preventing slippage during dynamic moves. This method, often called a "torque" or "stein pull," allows the tool to against the face, supporting body weight on overhanging sections. Footwork in dry-tooling emphasizes efficient crampon use to maintain balance and conserve energy on moderate terrain. Front-pointing involves stabbing the front points of the crampons directly into rock fissures or shallow cracks for secure purchase on steeper angles, mimicking ice climbing stabs but adapted to rock's unforgiving surface. Alternatively, flat-footing places the entire sole of the boot against rock features, using the crampon's secondary points for edging on flakes, knobs, or horizontal ledges, which is ideal for low-angle progressions where precision trumps power. Modern crampon designs with modular front points facilitate these techniques by allowing adjustments for rock versus ice. Effective body positioning optimizes leverage and reduces fatigue in basic dry-tooling. Climbers keep their hips close to the wall to minimize swing and maintain stability, especially when pulling on hooked tools. High elbow positions—keeping arms bent at about 90 degrees—enhance pulling efficiency by aligning the body directly under the tool, allowing relaxed shoulders for sustained holds. Dynamic matching, or alternating placements between tools, promotes fluid movement by switching hands on the same hold or crossing tools briefly, building coordination without over-relying on one arm. Beginners should focus on progression drills to develop , starting on low-angle slabs (around 40 degrees or less) where assists and falls are low-consequence, practicing basic hooks and foot placements to build . Once comfortable, transition to slightly steeper vertical walls, incorporating body positioning to simulate real-route demands while emphasizing deliberate, controlled swings over speed. These drills foster foundational strength and precision before attempting more committing terrain.

Advanced Skills and Strategies

Advanced dry-tooling practitioners employ dynamic swinging to efficiently traverse overhangs, leveraging for rest-to-rest transitions that minimize energy expenditure and . This technique involves using underhand grips to execute wide, sweeping strokes with ice s, allowing climbers to reach distant holds without static pulling that leads to rapid exhaustion. By generating controlled from the hips and , climbers can swing the into micro-edges or cracks, transitioning smoothly between secure placements on steep . Rest positions are crucial for recovery on prolonged high-difficulty routes, enabling climbers to achieve passive hangs that offload weight from the arms and facilitate breathing. Common placements include the figure-four rest, where the opposite leg hooks over the tool arm to create a stable, core-supported position, and , involving hooking the tool handle over an arm or leg for a semi-passive . Underclings with tool picks, where the pick hooks into an overhead feature while maintaining upward pressure, allow for brief but effective recovery on overhangs by distributing load to the rather than muscles. These positions, when combined with relaxed hand grips (thumbs open except on extreme roofs), extend endurance by reducing buildup. Effective route reading in advanced dry-tooling centers on preemptively identifying micro-features such as small ledges, cracks, and slots for optimal placements, which directly influences stamina management. Climbers scan ahead to prioritize holds that support efficient clipping of quickdraws, avoiding unnecessary reaches that exacerbate —forearm muscle fatigue from sustained contraction. By planning sequences that incorporate rest opportunities and minimal clipping disruptions, practitioners maintain flow and conserve energy, often using the "90-90-90" alignment ( shaft perpendicular to the hold's horizontal axis, pick at 90 degrees on its roll axis, and pull directed 90 degrees downward) to test and secure placements quickly. Injury prevention strategies in dry-tooling emphasize targeted warm-ups for the and to mitigate common strains like tendonitis, which arises from repetitive tool swinging and gripping. Protocols include tendon glides—cycling fingers through palm positions to mobilize flexors and extensors—for 10 repetitions per hand, followed by external rotator exercises using a (e.g., "no moneys" with 10-12 reps of retraction and arm rotation) to stabilize the . activation via recruitment pulls on holds (4 sets of 5-second holds) prepares the body for dynamic loads, while overall relaxation techniques, such as open-hand tool holds, reduce tension-related overuse injuries. These practices, integrated before sessions, significantly lower the risk of impingement and inflammation in high-intensity pulling.

Grading and Achievements

Grade Systems and Scales

The primary grading system for dry-tooling is the Mixed (M) scale, which originated in the Canadian ice climbing community around the mid-1980s as an extension of the Water Ice (WI) scale to account for routes combining , , and features climbed with ice tools and . This open-ended scale ranges from M1 (easy, slabby terrain with minimal technical tool placements) to M18 (extremely overhanging, bouldery sequences requiring advanced techniques like figure-4s and figure-9s), with grades reflecting the overall technical and physical demands of the route. Specifically, M8 and above denote sustained dry-tooling on bare without or features, emphasizing precise tool placements such as torquing picks into cracks and leveraging body weight for dynamic moves. The (UIAA) recognizes the within its broader framework for mixed terrain, integrating it with the Canadian technical grades (1-7) to evaluate individual pitches or crux sections, assuming optimal conditions like good tool holds and no excessive runouts. Regional variations exist, particularly in , where the French D-scale (D for "dry") is commonly used for pure dry-tooling routes on bolted rock walls, ranging from (easy) to D16 (extremely difficult), with D6 denoting vertical walls with straightforward pulls and hooks, and D16 involving near-horizontal roofs with intricate, power-intensive sequences. This scale aligns closely with the French grades but prioritizes technical precision—such as tool micro-adjustments and footwork in —over raw physical strength, and it is often cross-referenced with UIAA rock grades (e.g., D10 approximating UIAA VIII). Grading factors include route length (e.g., sustained 30+ meters for M10), protection quality (bolted routes reduce subjective risk compared to traditional gear placements), and ascent style, where on-sight attempts (without prior inspection) are considered harder than redpoint efforts (with practice falls allowed). For instance, an M10 typically involves 90-degree overhanging walls with powerful dry-tooling cruxes lasting several body lengths, demanding consistent and pull sequences. These elements ensure grades capture both the route's inherent challenges and the climber's experience level. In comparison to traditional ice grades like the WI scale (WI1-WI7), dry-tooling grades under the M or D systems align roughly in difficulty (e.g., M6-WI6 for vertical ) but shift emphasis from swing accuracy on formations to rock torque and hooking stability on irregular features, making higher grades more dependent on rock-specific skills than fragility.

Evolution of Milestones

The evolution of dry-tooling milestones reflects a rapid progression in difficulty, driven by innovations in , , and , with key ascents establishing new benchmarks on increasingly overhanging . An early pivotal moment came in 1997 when made the of (M9) in , USA, which is widely recognized as the first route at that and signified a shift toward pure dry-tooling without reliance on features. This climb, involving technical tool placements on a mix of crack and roof features, built on Jeff Lowe's foundational M8 from 1994 and highlighted the growing emphasis on rock-only tool work. In the 2000s, breakthroughs elevated the sport's standards, with Harald Berger flashing Vertical Limits (M12) in Rumeis, , in 2004, marking one of the first confirmations of that grade through a single-push ascent without prior rehearsal. By 2012, Robert Jasper established (D14) in Eptingen, , introducing the dedicated D-scale for pure dry-tooling and pushing boundaries on a massive 45-degree overhang with sustained technical sequences. These developments in the decade underscored the transition from mixed to specialized dry-tooling, with Jasper's route featuring over 30 meters of horizontal traversal that demanded precise body positioning and endurance. Recent advances have seen even greater pushes, exemplified by Tom Ballard's of A Line Above the Sky (D15) in the , , in 2016, which involved 50 meters of extreme overhang and set a new high for the D-scale through innovative figure-four and figure-nine moves. Climbers like those in the UK scene, including early pioneers such as Ben Firth who contributed to high-grade developments in the 2000s, have continued to drive progress with 2020-era ascents on local crags, supported by enhanced training regimens and refined gear like ergonomic leashes. Globally, grade progression has accelerated notably—from routine M10 routes around 2000 to M16 by 2018, as seen in Filip Babicz's Oświecenie in —fueled by competitive formats like the UIAA Drytooling and Ouray Ice Festival, which promote specialized skills and rapid innovation. Post-2018, the difficulty boundary advanced further with the first D16 route in , repeated by Kevin Lindlau in 2024, underscoring the sport's continued evolution toward extreme technical and physical demands.

Female-Specific Achievements

Ines Papert emerged as a pioneering figure in women's dry-tooling during the early 2000s, establishing key milestones by becoming the first woman to redpoint an M13 route with her ascent of in in 2007. Her achievements built on earlier mixed climbing successes, such as repeating (M11) in in 2003, which set a new benchmark for female performance in tool-assisted routes. Papert's multiple victories in further highlighted her influence, inspiring subsequent generations of female athletes to pursue high-grade dry-tooling. Building on these foundations, record milestones accelerated in the 2010s. Lucie Hrozová from the made history in 2013 as the first woman to climb an with her repeat of at Eptingen, Switzerland, a 40-meter stamina-intensive route that tested endurance and precision in dry-tooling conditions. In 2017, Angelika Rainer of achieved the first female D15 ascent on A Line Above the Sky in the , Italy, solidifying women's presence at the sport's upper echelons. Most recently, in 2025, Katie McKinstry Stylos became the first woman to send a D15+/D16 with Parallel World in the Italian , overcoming extensive projection and specialized training to match the route's extreme technical demands. Women in dry-tooling often confront physiological challenges, particularly differences in upper-body strength relative to men, which the discipline's reliance on sustained pulling and tool torque amplifies. These disparities, where women typically exhibit 50-60% of men's upper-body pulling , demand targeted adaptations like enhanced and technique optimization to compensate effectively. Participation in women's categories at UIAA World Cups, which include dry-tooling elements, has grown steadily since their formal inclusion in the early , with increasing representation from diverse nations and more frequent podium finishes by athletes. These accomplishments have had a profound inspirational impact, encouraging greater involvement and diversifying dry-tooling beyond traditional male-dominated narratives. By claiming approximately 20-30% of high-grade first ascents and repeats since , women like Papert, Hrozová, Rainer, and Stylos have broadened the sport's and community, fostering inclusive training programs and events tailored to female participants.

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