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Jonathan Gold

Jonathan Gold (July 28, 1960 – July 21, 2018) was an American food and critic best known for his influential restaurant reviews that celebrated the multicultural cuisine of , earning him the distinction of being the first food writer to win the in 2007. Born in to a Reform Jewish family, Gold was the eldest of three sons; his father worked as a officer, and his mother served as a high school librarian. He studied and at the (UCLA), where he developed early interests in , forming bands such as Overman and Tank Burial while taking odd jobs as an information operator, music booker, and proofreader. Gold's writing career began in the 1980s at , where he initially covered , , theater, , and emerging food scenes, launching his signature "Counter Intelligence" column in 1986 to explore the city's ethnic eateries. Throughout his career, Gold contributed to numerous publications, including Gourmet magazine (where he was the first food writer nominated for a National Magazine Award), Los Angeles magazine, and California magazine, before joining the Los Angeles Times in 1990 as its restaurant critic and returning as its chief restaurant critic in 2012, penning over 1,550 stories for the paper. His prose was renowned for its poetic, sensory style—often employing second-person perspective and pop culture allusions—to demystify immigrant-driven restaurants, emphasizing community and accessibility over high-end dining; as he noted, his goal was "to get people less afraid of their neighbors" through food. Gold received additional accolades, including James Beard Foundation awards for his writing in 2011 and 2018, and his work inspired the 2016 documentary City of Gold and even a rap tribute from local artists. In his , Gold married arts editor Laurie Ochoa in 1990; the couple had two children, and , and resided in Pasadena, where he was an avid home cook. He continued writing until shortly before his death from on July 21, 2018, at age 57, at St. Vincent Medical Center in , leaving a legacy as a pioneer who elevated food criticism to literary art and championed the city's culinary diversity.

Early Life and Education

Early Life

Jonathan Gold was born on July 28, 1960, in to Irwin Gold, a Jewish probation officer who supervised high-profile figures including and , and Judith Gold, a high school and former magician's assistant who converted to from upon marriage. As the eldest of three boys—followed by brothers Josh and Mark—Gold grew up in a middle-class, Jewish family that emphasized cultural engagement, with his mother playing a key role in fostering reading and curiosity through her work as a at Dorsey High School. His brother Mark later became a prominent figure in environmental , serving as president of Heal the Bay and associate vice chancellor at UCLA's Institute of the Environment and Sustainability. Gold's childhood unfolded in the diverse, multicultural fabric of , where the family lived in a modest rental near Inglewood before moving to and eventually Beverly Hills, navigating the city's shifting neighborhoods amid its ethnic mosaic. Weekends often involved family outings to iconic delis like or , where Gold developed an early appreciation for comfort foods such as patty melts and dinners, alongside his mother's skilled home cooking that introduced him to varied flavors. These experiences in South Los Angeles's vibrant, immigrant-influenced communities laid the groundwork for his lifelong curiosity about the city's ethnic cuisines, from kosher eateries to street-side staples. From a young age, Gold showed a strong inclination toward , spending hours in his room practicing the and immersing himself in classical repertoire, which his family supported as part of their emphasis on and . He also attended Dodgers games with his family, blending everyday Angeleno rituals with the sensory world of ballpark snacks and energy, experiences that honed his observant eye for the cultural intersections of food and place. His mother's encouragement of reading further nurtured this inquisitive spirit, exposing him to literature that complemented the tactile joys of and meals in their dynamic household.

Education

Jonathan Gold attended the (UCLA), where he pursued studies in music history and art during the late and early . He earned a degree in music history in 1982, building on his childhood passion for playing the cello, which had immersed him in musical culture from a young age. During his time at UCLA, Gold took an art class taught by renowned performance artist , fostering his interest in conceptual and experimental work over more traditional academic paths. He served as Burden's assistant from 1979 to 1980, participating in creative projects that honed his observational and descriptive skills, such as an exploratory endeavor involving sampling bagels from various bakeries. These experiences in the campus art scene bridged his academic pursuits with hands-on cultural engagement, sharpening his ability to critique and articulate complex sensory impressions. Gold's extracurricular involvement extended to the vibrant UCLA music community, where his background as a cellist informed his engagement with classical and contemporary performances. This immersion in campus musical activities, combined with his art studies, cultivated an early critical voice attuned to cultural nuances. While still a student, he began proofreading at the LA Weekly magazine, an entry point that introduced him to journalistic writing and allowed him to explore informally. These college-era endeavors laid the groundwork for his distinctive prose style, emphasizing vivid detail and cultural context.

Career

Music Journalism

Jonathan Gold began his professional journalism career at the LA Weekly in 1982, starting as a proofreader while still attending UCLA. He rapidly progressed to writing and editorial roles, becoming the music section editor for much of the 1980s. In this capacity, Gold contributed extensively to the paper's coverage of Los Angeles' emerging music scenes, blending his roles as reporter and editor to shape the publication's voice on contemporary sounds. Gold's work focused heavily on the rise of and , particularly the subgenre that defined much of ' output in the late 1980s and early 1990s. He established himself as a pivotal chronicler of these movements, spending days embedded in recording studios with influential artists. His in-depth reporting on N.W.A., including time with , , , and , provided nuanced analyses of the group's provocative lyrics and the socio-political tensions they reflected in South Central L.A. Gold's pieces, such as his immersive accounts of studio sessions and photo shoots—where once posed with an arsenal of weapons—highlighted the raw energy and cultural stakes of , helping to legitimize it within broader . He is also credited by N.W.A. member with coining the "gangsta rap" in his writings, though Gold himself demurred with a playful admission of guilt when confronted. His coverage extended to other rising figures, including , whom Gold profiled during the anticipation surrounding the 1993 album . These interactions earned him the nickname "Nervous Cuz" from and , a nod to his wide-eyed enthusiasm amid the scene's intensity. Gold's writing style emphasized vivid, narrative-driven immersion, drawing readers into the "music underworld" through sensory details and cultural context rather than detached critique. This approach informed his scene analyses, which explored how intertwined with ' street life, racial dynamics, and artistic innovation during a transformative era. Through interviews, features, and editorial oversight, Gold's contributions at the not only documented the hip-hop explosion but also influenced how the genre was perceived by mainstream audiences.

Entry into Food Criticism

Jonathan Gold transitioned into food criticism in 1986 when he launched his "Counter Intelligence" column for the L.A. Weekly, a departure from his earlier work in music journalism that leveraged his skills in vivid storytelling. The column quickly distinguished itself by spotlighting affordable, ethnic restaurants in that were largely ignored by mainstream critics, such as hole-in-the-wall taquerias and family-run spots serving immigrant fare. This focus highlighted the city's hidden culinary gems, emphasizing accessibility over high-end dining and challenging the traditional scope of restaurant reviewing. Gold's writing in "Counter Intelligence" celebrated Los Angeles' multicultural fabric through its diverse immigrant cuisines, portraying dishes like tacos from street vendors, steaming bowls of , and other everyday street foods as windows into cultural narratives and community histories. He treated these eateries not merely as places to eat but as vital expressions of the city's ethnic neighborhoods, from Salvadoran pupuserias to noodle shops, underscoring how food bridged social divides and reflected broader demographic shifts. This approach infused his reviews with a humanistic lens, elevating overlooked immigrant contributions to the American culinary landscape. In his early reviews, Gold masterfully blended rich sensory descriptions—of textures, aromas, and flavors—with incisive social commentary on , illustrating how these modest establishments embodied ' evolving identity as a global crossroads. For instance, he might detail the smoky char of grilled meats at a while weaving in observations on the vibrancy of Latino street culture, making his pieces both appetizing guides and cultural essays. This innovative style transformed into a tool for social exploration, resonating with readers seeking authentic connections to the city's diverse populace. The column's popularity surged over the years, cultivating a devoted following and positioning Gold as a pioneering for underrepresented eateries that might otherwise remain invisible to the wider . By consistently championing these venues, "Counter Intelligence" not only boosted their visibility but also redefined food criticism as an inclusive practice attuned to everyday .

Major Positions and Columns

Jonathan Gold began his tenure as a restaurant critic at the Los Angeles Times in 1990, where he contributed reviews and features until 1996, when he transitioned to freelance work. He returned to the Los Angeles Times in 2012 as its chief restaurant critic, a role he held until his death in 2018, during which he shaped the paper's coverage of the city's diverse culinary landscape. Between these periods, Gold worked at LA Weekly starting in the mid-1980s, leaving in 1999 for a position as a contributing editor at Gourmet magazine, where he focused on New York City dining from 1999 to 2001. Upon returning to Los Angeles in 2001, he rejoined LA Weekly as its primary food critic until 2012. A hallmark of Gold's career was his annual "101 Best Restaurants" list, originally launched as the "99 Essential Restaurants" in 2005 at to highlight Los Angeles's eclectic eateries across neighborhoods and cuisines, from strip-mall taquerias to fine-dining establishments. The list expanded to 101 entries by 2013 and continued under his guidance at the , serving as a influential guide that emphasized the city's multicultural food scene and encouraged exploration of underrepresented spots. In 2017, Gold co-founded the L.A. Times Food Bowl, an annual citywide featuring collaborative events, tastings, and discussions to celebrate Los Angeles's culinary diversity and bring together chefs, vendors, and communities. Gold's writing style evolved from his early music roots into poetic yet accessible that captured the sensory joys of while highlighting everyday , often weaving personal anecdotes with vivid descriptions of immigrant-driven cuisines.

Awards and Recognition

Jonathan Gold received the 2007 Pulitzer Prize for Criticism for his restaurant reviews in the LA Weekly, marking the first time the award was given to a food critic and recognizing his "zestful, wide-ranging restaurant reviews, expressing the delight of an erudite eater." This honor underscored Gold's role in legitimizing as a form of serious cultural criticism, challenging the notion that culinary commentary was mere consumerism rather than erudite . Throughout his career, Gold earned four James Beard Foundation Awards for his restaurant reviews and columns, including the Craig Claiborne Distinguished Restaurant Review Award in 2010 and 2018. These accolades highlighted his innovative approach to food criticism, which emphasized ethnic cuisines and accessible dining options in ' diverse immigrant communities, such as southern Thai and Ecuadorian fare in overlooked neighborhoods. By focusing on community-driven eateries rather than high-end establishments, Gold's work elevated underrepresented culinary traditions and influenced the broader field of food journalism to adopt a more inclusive, exploratory lens. Gold's awards collectively affirmed his contributions to transforming into a respected journalistic pursuit, with the Pulitzer serving as a pivotal milestone that inspired subsequent critics to treat dining as a for cultural analysis.

Personal Life

Family and Relationships

Jonathan Gold married Laurie in 1990 during a ceremony at the restaurant Campanile, featuring a roast as a centerpiece. , whom he met in 1984 while both worked at the , became his frequent dining companion and first reader of his drafts; she later rose to become the arts and entertainment editor at the . The couple had two children, daughter and son , raising them in Pasadena amid Gold's deep immersion in Angeles's culinary landscape. As a devoted father, Gold routinely prepared dinner for his children before embarking on his evening reviews, balancing family routines with his nocturnal explorations of the city's diverse eateries. His family life intertwined with his LA-centric lifestyle through shared culinary adventures, such as taking the children on sprees for hot dogs, , and , or visiting spots like Mama's with his mother, fostering an appreciation for the region's eclectic food scene. Gold's younger brother, Mark Gold, pursued a contrasting path in environmental advocacy, serving as president of the nonprofit Heal the Bay for many years before becoming UCLA's associate vice chancellor for environment and sustainability. Their sibling dynamic highlighted family differences—Jonathan's enthusiastic embrace of and global cuisines often clashed playfully with Mark's focus on —yet they collaborated publicly on discussions, bridging their worlds.

Illness and Death

In early July 2018, Jonathan Gold was diagnosed with . Gold died on July 21, 2018, at the age of 57 from complications of the disease at St. Vincent Medical Center in . His wife, Laurie Ochoa, was by his side during his final days, along with their two children. He was buried at in , where his gravestone bears the epitaph "Tacos Forever." On July 28, 2018—what would have been Gold's 58th birthday—several landmarks, including City Hall, the , and the Los Angeles County Museum of Art, were illuminated in gold as an immediate public tribute to his life and work.

Legacy and Influence

Posthumous Honors

Following Jonathan Gold's death in July 2018, the posthumously awarded him the Distinguished Restaurant Review Award in 2019 for his 2018 reviews of restaurants including The Hearth & Hound, Nature Pagoda, and Bavel. This marked Gold's ninth James Beard honor overall, with his widow, Laurie Ochoa, accepting the award at the media gala in . In October 2018, the James Beard Foundation renamed its Local Impact Award as the Jonathan Gold Local Voice Award to honor Gold's contributions to regional food writing, specifically recognizing emerging writers who chronicle their cities' culinary stories in the vein of his Los Angeles-focused work. The inaugural recipient was Brett Anderson of the New Orleans Times-Picayune. The award continues annually, with Ashok Selvam of Eater Chicago receiving it in 2025 for work including coverage of Chicago's food scene and economic impacts on restaurants. Public tributes in 2018 included a memorial event at in attended by hundreds, featuring food trucks and performances to reflect Gold's appreciation for and diverse cultures. The city also dedicated a plaque bearing Gold's outside Grand Central Market, where a nearby plaza was named in his honor, and several iconic buildings such as City Hall and the were illuminated in gold on what would have been his 58th birthday. The Los Angeles Times has sustained Gold's legacy through its annual Food Bowl festival, where the Gold Award—established in his name—continues to recognize influential local vendors and restaurants, with recipients including Park's BBQ in 2023 and in 2024. The festival continued in October 2025. This institutional recognition underscores Gold's role in elevating Los Angeles's scene.

Impact on Food Writing and Culture

Jonathan Gold's pioneering approach to elevated the genre from mere reviews to a sophisticated literary form worthy of the , blending erudite prose with cultural analysis to explore the human stories behind the plate. His 2007 marked a , affirming as a legitimate journalistic pursuit capable of capturing the complexities of urban life. By infusing reviews with poetic flair—such as Miltonic similes comparing dishes to epic narratives—Gold demonstrated how cuisine could serve as a lens for broader societal insights, inspiring a generation of writers to adopt similarly ambitious styles. Figures like drew from this tradition, building on Gold's emphasis on as a gateway to cultural understanding, which predated and influenced the "social " popularized in television and memoirs. Gold's advocacy for multicultural and immigrant-driven cuisines fundamentally reshaped perceptions of as a global food capital, positioning the city's diverse ethnic enclaves as its true culinary heart. He fearlessly championed hole-in-the-wall establishments, street vendors, and family-run spots serving Salvadoran pupusas, banchan, and Mexican tortas, often venturing into neighborhoods overlooked by mainstream critics. Through columns like his "Counter Intelligence" series, Gold highlighted how these immigrant communities created vibrant, self-sustaining food ecosystems, using accessible prose to bridge cultural divides and encourage Angelenos to explore beyond familiar territories. This advocacy not only democratized but also underscored food's role in fostering community amid LA's sprawling diversity, transforming the city's culinary identity from a patchwork of imports to a cohesive, world-class . As a mentor, Gold actively promoted diverse voices in food media, using his platform to uplift emerging critics from underrepresented backgrounds and expand the field's inclusivity. He responded to unsolicited outreach from young writers, such as a 16-year-old Latino food enthusiast from East Los Angeles, providing career guidance, crediting their work in his reviews, and recommending them for professional opportunities at outlets like the . This hands-on support helped cultivate a new cadre of critics attuned to ethnic and immigrant narratives, ensuring that food writing reflected LA's demographic reality rather than a narrow elite perspective. Gold's death in amplified his long-term influence, sparking a surge in mainstream food criticism's attention to , ethnic restaurants, and underrepresented cuisines. His legacy prompted publications to prioritize diverse , with writers adopting his muscular, community-focused style to address , , and cultural intersections in contemporary reviews. This shift is evident in anthologies like the 2023 edition of The Best American Food Writing, where Gold's emphasis on and continues to guide explorations of immigrant-driven innovation, solidifying LA's status as a for global culinary discourse.

Published Works

Columns and Lists

Jonathan Gold's most enduring journalistic contribution was his "Counter Intelligence" column, which debuted in the L.A. Weekly in 1986 and continued in various iterations, including at the Los Angeles Times after 2012. The column featured concise reviews, typically 200 to 600 words, that celebrated Los Angeles' diverse, often unpretentious eateries, from strip-mall taquerias to innovative pop-ups. Notable examples include his 1993 praise for the juicy, no-frills burgers at Pie 'n Burger in Pasadena, evoking the diner's timeless appeal, and his vivid 2000 depiction of Bahooka in Rosemead as a tiki-themed lagoon of fried fish and aquariums, blending whimsy with culinary critique. Other standout pieces highlighted Arturo's Puffy Tacos in Whittier for their airy, history-laden Tex-Mex shells and the seasonal strawberry doughnuts at Donut Man in Glendora, underscoring Gold's eye for regional treasures. These reviews, collected in the 2000 book Counter Intelligence: Where to Eat in the Real Los Angeles, emphasized authenticity and sensory detail over star ratings. Gold's annual "99 Essential Restaurants" lists, launched by the L.A. Weekly in the mid-2000s, evolved into the "101 Best Restaurants" guide at the starting in 2012, reflecting the city's expanding culinary landscape. Selection criteria prioritized creativity, quality, and cultural significance, favoring diverse representations of ' multicultural fabric—including food trucks, stands, and immigrant-driven spots—over luxury . For instance, the 2010 list spotlighted innovative venues like in Fairfax for its bold, seasonal meats and Kogi BBQ truck for Korean-Mexican fusion, while later iterations at the Times incorporated broader trends like sustainability. The lists adapted annually to account for closures and newcomers, growing from 99 to 101 entries to capture more of the region's dynamism, with entries like in 2008 highlighting Yucatecan specialties amid shifting neighborhood scenes. Beyond these staples, Gold produced recurring features such as holiday eating guides and thematic series exploring Los Angeles neighborhoods. His annual tamale guides, like the 2016 crawl across spots including Tamales Liliana's near El Mercado, mapped seasonal traditions from Oaxacan to Salvadoran varieties, often involving family outings to underscore communal rituals. Thematic pieces delved into areas like Koreatown, as in his 1990s writings on its post-riot resurgence through resilient mom-and-pop spots, or broader surveys of ethnic enclaves that traced migration patterns via cuisine. These features, appearing seasonally or in series, provided practical navigation while weaving in historical context. Collectively, Gold's columns and lists hold archival value as a of ' culinary evolution, documenting the rise of fusion trends, the endurance of hole-in-the-wall institutions, and the impact of socioeconomic shifts on food access from the onward. By prioritizing underrepresented voices and ephemeral venues, they preserve a snapshot of the city's immigrant-driven , serving scholars and enthusiasts as a reference for how tastes and neighborhoods transformed over decades.

Other Contributions

Gold played a key role in the inception of the Los Angeles Times' annual L.A. Food Bowl festival, which launched in 2017 as a month-long celebration of the city's culinary diversity. Inspired by similar events like Sydney's Good Food Month, Gold helped conceptualize the program during discussions with LA Times colleagues and international food festival organizers, and he jokingly suggested the name "Food Bowl," which was ultimately adopted for its playful nod to the city's sprawling food scene. Beyond his restaurant reviews, Gold contributed feature essays and cultural pieces to Gourmet magazine, where he explored broader themes in American foodways from the early 2000s onward. These writings often delved into regional cuisines and immigrant influences without focusing on specific eateries, such as profiles examining the evolution of Los Angeles' ethnic dining landscapes and their ties to global migration patterns. Gold frequently appeared in media to discuss food culture, including regular guest spots on KCRW's podcast, where he moderated panels like the 2018 Sichuan Summit during Food Bowl and shared insights on global flavors. He also featured prominently in the 2016 documentary , directed by Laura Gabbert, which chronicled his explorations of ' diverse eateries and earned acclaim for portraying the city's multicultural identity through his lens. Additionally, Gold penned a heartfelt appreciation of fellow food writer following his 2018 death, highlighting Bourdain's role in elevating working-class kitchens and international on global stages. In essays and interviews, Gold addressed and , advocating for ethical sourcing and environmental awareness in dining. For instance, he collaborated with his brother, environmental advocate Mark Gold, to promote practices, emphasizing how critics could influence restaurant menus toward ocean-friendly options like avoiding overfished species. His writings often intertwined these topics with cultural commentary, underscoring how food choices reflect broader societal issues like and urban equity in .

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    Mar 30, 2016 · LA Times food critic Jonathan Gold is the subject of a new documentary. Civil Eats sat down with Gold to talk sustainability, food tribalism ...Missing: immigrant | Show results with:immigrant