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Pat Cleveland

Patricia Cleveland (born June 23, 1950) is an American fashion model who emerged as a trailblazer in the late 1960s and 1970s, becoming one of the first African-American women to achieve widespread success on international runways and in print amid an industry historically dominated by white models. Raised in Harlem by her mother, a painter, after her parents' separation, Cleveland attended New York's High School of Art and Design, graduating in 1969, and began designing her own clothes as early as age 14. Her modeling career launched in 1966 when she was scouted by fashion editor Carrie Donovan, leading to initial work as a live mannequin for Ebony Fashion Fair's runway tours and features in Vogue magazine, where she appeared both as a model and aspiring designer. In 1970, she relocated to Paris, collaborating with illustrator Antonio Lopez and designers including Karl Lagerfeld at Chloé, Valentino, Yves Saint Laurent, and Christian Dior, which expanded her visibility across European fashion houses. A defining achievement came in 1973 at the Battle of Versailles, a high-profile fundraiser pitting American against French designers, where Cleveland walked alongside nine other Black models—a unprecedented inclusion that showcased diversity and propelled U.S. fashion's energetic style over European traditions. Returning to the in 1974, she continued modeling for photographers like and in campaigns such as , later founding her own agency in to address industry inequities, publishing a poetry collection in 2001, and resuming runway work in the 2000s, including alongside her daughter. Cleveland has received honors including the Award for fashion icon status and a Fashion Achiever Award from the .

Early life

Family background and upbringing

Pat Cleveland was born on June 23, 1950, in to Johnny Johnston, a jazz saxophonist of descent, and Lady Bird Cleveland, a painter of African American, , and ancestry. Her father departed for soon after her birth and remained largely absent from her life, leaving her mother as her primary caregiver. Raised in during the 1950s, Cleveland grew up in a bohemian household amid a diverse neighborhood comprising Black, Irish, Jewish, and Puerto Rican communities, which she later described as each group occupying distinct social corners. Her mother's artistic pursuits, focused on themes from Black history and connected to figures such as photographer and singer , immersed her in a creative environment filled with paints, fabrics, drums, and visiting dancers practicing choreography. An aunt who worked at the house further enriched the home with international artistic influences, fostering Cleveland's early interest in painting and a sense of standing apart due to her mixed heritage, which positioned her as neither fully Black nor white in the eyes of others.

Education and entry into fashion

Cleveland attended the High School of Art and Design in , where she developed an interest in illustration and design from a young age. She graduated from the school in 1969, having initially aspired to become a designer rather than a model. During her time there, Cleveland sketched clothing and created outfits from inexpensive materials, reflecting her early creative inclinations toward garment construction. Her entry into modeling occurred in 1966 at age 14, when a fashion editor spotted her on a platform and pursued her to offer representation. This encounter led to her first professional opportunities, including participation in the Ebony Fashion Fair tour, where she became one of the youngest models featured. By the late 1960s, Cleveland had begun working with prominent photographers such as , transitioning from design aspirations to a modeling career amid limited opportunities for Black women in the industry.

Career

Early modeling breakthroughs (1960s)

Pat Cleveland entered the modeling industry in the mid-1960s, beginning at age 15 with the Ebony Fashion Fair, a national touring runway show organized by Ebony magazine to showcase fashion for Black audiences. As the youngest model ever to participate in the tour, she traveled across the United States, performing in dozens of cities and honing her runway skills under the guidance of show director Eunice W. Johnson, which provided her initial platform amid limited opportunities for Black models in mainstream fashion. In 1966, at age 16, Cleveland was scouted on a platform by fashion editor while heading to high school, an encounter that introduced her to elite editorial circles and expanded her visibility beyond the circuit. This discovery led to her signing with , one of the few agencies then open to Black talent, enabling early print work and runway appearances that challenged racial barriers in the predominantly white industry. By the late 1960s, Cleveland achieved breakthroughs in high fashion, debuting at and walking for designers including and Yves , where her expressive movement and ethereal presence distinguished her from contemporaries. She also secured shoots with leading photographers such as , , and Hiro, whose images in publications like highlighted her as a pioneering face in editorial during an era of civil advancements influencing cultural representation. These accomplishments positioned her as one of the first African American models to gain traction in international couture, though persistent agency rejections underscored the era's systemic exclusions.

Peak years and international fame (1970s)

In 1971, Cleveland relocated to , seeking greater opportunities amid limited prospects for models in the United States, where she had faced persistent barriers. There, she resided with designer , sharing his apartment with fellow models, and secured work as a house model for under Lagerfeld's direction. She collaborated with European designers including Yves Saint Laurent, , , , and , appearing in shows and magazine features that elevated her profile across the continent. Her distinctive style, characterized by self-choreographed spins and dynamic movements, showcased garments in motion and contributed to her reputation as a versatile performer in an era when modeling emphasized poise and innovation. Cleveland's international breakthrough came in November 1973 at the Battle of Versailles, a high-profile extravaganza pitting five American designers—Halston, , , , and Stephen Burrows—against five French counterparts at the Palace of Versailles. Representing the American contingent, she walked alongside ten other Black models, marking the first significant inclusion of models of color in such a prestigious venue and helping secure a perceived American victory through energetic presentations that contrasted with the more static French shows. The event, attended by luminaries including the and , amplified her visibility and underscored the growing global demand for diverse representations in high , positioning Cleveland as a pioneer among Black models achieving cross-Atlantic acclaim. By the mid-1970s, Cleveland had solidified her status as one of the era's premier models, working extensively in , , and for designers like and Stephen Burrows, whose vibrant, movement-oriented collections she helped popularize internationally. Her appearances in European publications and films, such as a Brazilian production featuring Halston designs, further extended her influence beyond traditional runway circuits. Returning to the in 1974 following Beverly Johnson's Vogue cover—a milestone Cleveland had awaited as a condition for her repatriation—she continued to command bookings that reflected her hard-won international stature.

Professional challenges and industry barriers

Despite early successes, Cleveland faced pervasive in the U.S. industry, where opportunities for models were severely limited by preferences for white appearances in runway shows, editorials, and campaigns. At age 16, she was explicitly informed by agencies that there was "no work for coloured girls," reflecting entrenched exclusionary practices that prioritized racial homogeneity. Designers, magazines, and press often favored white models, sidelining talent like Cleveland despite her skills and versatility, which contributed to inconsistent bookings and professional marginalization. These barriers extended to broader dynamics, including racist protocols that scrutinized skin tone and features through the of colorism, unfair compensation structures, and a lack of representation in high-profile work. Cleveland's experiences were emblematic of systemic challenges for models in the and , where racial bias manifested in overt rejections and subtle exclusions, such as limited access to major publications and designers. In her 2016 memoir Walking with the Muses, she detailed encounters with such , including hostility from gatekeepers who viewed models as novelties rather than equals. Disillusionment with these U.S.-centric obstacles prompted Cleveland to relocate to in 1970, where European markets offered comparatively fewer but still significant racial hurdles, allowing her to secure international bookings that were unattainable domestically. This underscored the geographic fragmentation of opportunities for non-white models, as agencies and brands lagged in integrating amid cultural to racial inclusion in aesthetics.

Hiatus, return, and later endeavors

Following the birth of her children—Noel in 1984 and Anna in 1989—Cleveland scaled back her modeling activities to focus on family, marking a primary from full-time work in the industry. She had married photographer Paul van Ravenstein in 1984, and this period allowed her to prioritize amid prior international commitments. Her career saw further disruption in the mid-2000s after affiliating with a modeling associated with in 2005; the fallout, including professional isolation for about a year as clients avoided association, stemmed from Trump's reportedly volatile management style, which she later described as exploitative and leading to her withdrawal. Cleveland returned sporadically to modeling post-family hiatus, establishing her own agency in in 1995 to address perceived industry inequities, particularly for underrepresented models. She walked runways including Moschino's fall 1995 ready-to-wear show in and later collaborated with designers such as , Stephen Burrows, , and in 2003 and 2013, often alongside her daughter . Additional appearances included serving as a guest judge on season 14 in 2010 and featuring in documentaries like Ultrasuede: In Search of (2010) and Versailles '73: American Runway Revolution (2012). In later years, Cleveland diversified into writing and visual arts, publishing a poetry collection, In the Spirit of Grace, in 2001, followed by her memoir Walking with the Muses: A Memoir of the '70s Swinging and Sexy World of Top Designers and Models in 2016, which chronicled her early career through personal archives. She resumed painting—initially learned from her artist mother—after a decades-long break, producing abstract works and collages exhibited at London's Beers gallery in a 2017 group show, 75 Works on Paper. Other pursuits encompassed designing clothes, recording a jazz album with a single released on iTunes, and planning a book on her parents' relationship, while maintaining selective modeling into her 70s.

Publications and ongoing influence

Cleveland published her memoir Walking with the Muses: A Memoir, co-authored with Lorraine Glennon, in 2016 through 37 Ink, an imprint of . The book chronicles her experiences as one of the earliest Black supermodels, spanning her breakthroughs in during the late 1960s, international travels to and beyond in the 1970s, and encounters with designers like Yves Saint Laurent and . It draws on personal anecdotes, including the 1973 , where Cleveland performed a notable runway dance that highlighted American designers' edge over French couture. The has been credited with preserving firsthand accounts of fashion's pre-supermodel , emphasizing Cleveland's in challenging racial barriers through amid rejections. Reviews noted its vivid portrayal of the 's glamour and grit, with highlighting Cleveland's candid reflections on romances, rivalries, and the physical demands of modeling. Cleveland also contributed an to The Battle of Versailles: The Fashion Showdown of 1973, published in 2024 by Rizzoli, recounting her pivotal performance that symbolized a shift toward diverse, dynamic presentations. Cleveland's influence persists through her documentation of fashion history, which informs contemporary discussions on diversity and resilience in modeling. Her daughter, Anna Cleveland, has followed a modeling career, collaborating with brands like Chanel and maintaining family ties to the industry, as explored in joint interviews on legacy. In recent years, Cleveland has appeared in podcasts and features, such as a February 2025 episode of Dressed: The History of Fashion, reflecting on over five decades of industry evolution, and an October 2025 Vogue Adria interview discussing her work with photographers like Irving Penn. These engagements underscore her role as a living archive, cited in analyses of 1960s-1970s breakthroughs that paved for later inclusivity gains, though she has noted persistent challenges like typecasting.

Legacy

Contributions to diversity in fashion

Pat Cleveland emerged as a trailblazing in an era when high overwhelmingly favored white representation, entering the industry through the Ebony Fashion Fair in 1966, a touring production that showcased couture to Black audiences across the U.S., U.K., and , thereby exposing middle-class to luxury design and fostering early visibility for models of color. At age 14, her participation marked one of the first instances of a young Black talent gaining professional runway experience, challenging the era's exclusionary norms where Black models were rarely booked for major campaigns or editorials. Despite facing overt , including death threats and limited bookings from agencies like , Cleveland persisted, securing work with designers such as Yves Saint Laurent and , which helped normalize Black features in European and American couture presentations. A pivotal moment came on , 1973, during the Battle of Versailles fashion extravaganza at the Palace of Versailles, where Cleveland was among 30 Black models who performed an improvised, high-energy show for American designers, outshining the French contingent and drawing widespread acclaim for their vitality and synchronization; this event, attended by 700 guests including celebrities, underscored Black models' talent and shifted perceptions, prompting increased hiring of models of color in subsequent seasons. The performance, described by observers as electric and comradely without internal rivalry, highlighted systemic underrepresentation—prior to this, Black models comprised less than 1% of major casts—and catalyzed a brief surge in diversity, with Cleveland's dynamic strutting influencing designers to seek similar performers. Cleveland's international bookings in the 1970s, including campaigns for Italian and work with , further eroded barriers, as she became one of the earliest supermodels to achieve global fame, inspiring successors like [Naomi Campbell](/page/Naomi Campbell) by demonstrating viability for non-white faces in elite . Her career longevity—spanning over 50 years—and establishment of her own agency in the provided mentorship and opportunities for emerging talent, countering persistent industry biases where, even today, models of color face disproportionate exclusion from top-tier shows. While crediting efforts of contemporaries, Cleveland's unyielding presence amid adversity—refusing to conform to reductive stereotypes—directly contributed to a cultural shift, evidenced by the gradual rise in representation from negligible in the 1960s to prominent in 1970s editorial spreads.

Cultural and artistic impact

Pat Cleveland's presence in avant-garde artistic circles during the 1970s positioned her as a muse to prominent figures, including surrealist painter , whose works she inspired through her distinctive persona and modeling collaborations. She frequented Andy Warhol's scene, embodying the intersection of , art, and celebrity culture, which amplified her role in New York City's creative ferment. Her associations extended to designers like , with whom she shared living quarters in , fostering cross-pollination between high and fine arts. Cleveland's runway performances introduced a dynamic, dance-infused artistry to fashion presentations, as noted by contemporary model , who observed that "when she moved, she painted the air with her arms." This expressive style culminated in her participation in the 1973 Battle of Versailles, where American designers' show—featuring Cleveland and other models of color in energetic, theatrical displays—contrasted French haute couture's rigidity, influencing subsequent spectacles to prioritize movement and spectacle over static elegance. Her involvement in Studio 54's nightlife further embedded her in pop culture, mingling with musicians, artists, and icons like and , thereby blurring boundaries between fashion, music, and social scenes. Beyond modeling, Cleveland pursued creative outlets reflective of her upbringing in an artistic household—her mother a painter and father a musician—which shaped her multifaceted output. She has produced paintings, designed capsule clothing collections from repurposed materials, and contributed to musical projects, including an original in development as of 2025. As a muse to photographers like Antonio Lopez and designers such as and Stephen Burrows, her influence extended to visual and performative arts, mentoring later figures while sustaining a legacy of innovation in fashion's artistic expression.

Criticisms and balanced assessment

Pat Cleveland has encountered few substantive criticisms directed at her professional conduct or talent, with public discourse predominantly emphasizing the she confronted rather than flaws in her work. observers have occasionally pointed out that her distinctive, non-classical features—described as diverging from prevailing ideals—curtailed her access to high-profile covers and endorsements, confining much of her success to shows and editorial . A balanced evaluation affirms Cleveland's pivotal influence in elevating black visibility on international catwalks, exemplified by her starring role among 11 African American models at the 1973 Battle of Versailles, where their dynamic presentations eclipsed European couture and signaled a shift toward inclusivity. Nonetheless, her career underscores the fashion industry's entrenched preferences for white aesthetics, as evidenced by her exclusion from U.S. covers despite endorsements from photographers like and , prompting her relocation to in 1971. Cleveland herself protested this by vowing not to return to the U.S. until a black model appeared on 's cover, a milestone achieved with Beverly Johnson's feature in August 1974. While her memoir Walking with the Muses (2016) candidly documents these struggles without notable backlash, Cleveland has voiced reservations about post-1970s modeling trends, criticizing in a interview the "robotic" and culturally repetitive walks of contemporary models as less innovative than the expressive flair of her generation. Her enduring legacy thus embodies individual tenacity against structural impediments, including death threats during 1960s Fashion Fair tours in the segregated , though the sector's protracted resistance to —persisting into the —indicates that pioneers like her catalyzed change incrementally rather than comprehensively. Later financial precarity, such as a 2019 campaign to fund colon cancer treatment abroad amid limited provisions, further illustrates the uneven economic rewards for trailblazers in an industry prone to overlooking long-term support for its icons.

Personal life

Relationships and family

Cleveland was previously married to male model Martin Snaric, with whom she tied the knot in 1978; the union ended in prior to her subsequent . On June 30, 1984, she married Paul van Ravenstein, a former model and , and the couple remains together as of 2025. They have two children: son Noel van Ravenstein and daughter Anna Cleveland. The family resides in Willingboro, , where Cleveland and van Ravenstein have raised their children away from the intensifying spotlight of her earlier career. Anna Cleveland, born in 1989, followed her mother into professional modeling, working with designers such as and appearing in campaigns for brands including ; in 2023, she married publisher . In October 2024, Anna announced she was expecting her first child.

Health and resilience

In March 2019, during , Pat Cleveland suffered acute abdominal distress from months of unresolved digestive problems, leading to an emergency diagnosis of colon cancer upon discovery of a tumor obstructing her colon. She underwent immediate in a hospital, a procedure lasting two and a half hours to remove the blockage. Post-surgery, Cleveland completed 12 rounds of while facing financial strains from treatment costs, prompting a campaign supported by industry peers including designers and photographers who raised funds for her care. A lifelong vegan who practiced and , she adhered to regular screenings—her prior having been clear—yet emphasized drawing on personal and inner strength during recovery, viewing the illness as an unexpected trial that reinforced her commitment to holistic wellness. Cleveland's resilience manifested in her swift return to professional activities, continuing to model and participate in fashion events post-treatment without apparent long-term interruption to her career. By 2020, she publicly advocated maintaining forward momentum and self-empowerment amid adversity, crediting 's role in preserving her physical and mental vitality during . In a 2025 interview at age 75, she reflected on the cancer survival as integral to her enduring narrative of vitality, underscoring a philosophy of aging through bliss and purposeful engagement rather than retreat. No further major health disclosures have emerged, affirming her ongoing activity in the industry as of late 2025.

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