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Samuel Ross

Samuel Ross (born 26 May 1991) is a , , and renowned for founding the menswear label A-COLD-WALL* in 2014 and the industrial design studio SR_A in 2019. Born in , London, to second-generation parents of descent, Ross graduated with a first-class in and from before serving as design assistant to at Off-White. A-COLD-WALL*, self-described as a material study in social architecture, drew acclaim for its brutalist-inspired silhouettes, meticulous construction, and reflections on divides, achieving global retail presence, shows, and annual sales exceeding £16 million by 2023, when Ross sold a majority stake and exited as chair. His accolades include three British Fashion Awards, two Fashion Awards, the 2018 Emerging Menswear Designer honor, the 2019 Design Prize, and an in 2023 for services to fashion; he also holds honorary doctorates from the (2021) and (2025). Beyond apparel, Ross's interdisciplinary practice spans furniture, sculpture, and product design through SR_A, with collaborations including , Apple, and , and works acquired for permanent collections at institutions such as the and Victoria & Albert Museum. In 2020, he established the Black British Artist Grants Programme, supporting 50 emerging artists with institutional backing.

Early life

Upbringing and family background

Samuel Ross was born in , , to second-generation parents of descent, with his mother hailing from and his father from . His paternal and maternal grandparents had immigrated to Britain aboard the Empire , where both grandmothers worked as nurses. Ross's father studied fine art at in the 1980s before establishing a career as a stained-glass specialist, while his mother pursued work as an oil painter and lecturer in psychology at the . The family moved from to , a in , during Ross's early childhood to access more via options, remaining there until he was 12 years old. He frequently shuttled between and to maintain family ties, growing up in a working-class environment amid social housing estates in a diverse yet segregated marked by racial tensions and exposure to . Both parents, intellectually engaged in art and education, instilled a strong appreciation for creativity from a young age, encouraging Ross's early experiments with drawing and selling sketches or replicated apparel to peers around his housing block. This upbringing in England's region, blending urban influences with provincial realities, shaped his awareness of divisions and cultural heritage.

Education and formative influences

Ross exhibited artistic aptitude in drawing and painting during childhood, earning acceptance into a college-level course at age 15. This early formal training laid the groundwork for his design-oriented career, emphasizing and illustration techniques. A visit to (DMU) in with his father inspired Ross to pursue there, where he enrolled in a program in and . He graduated in the early 2010s with first-class honours, gaining proficiency in commercial design principles that later influenced his interdisciplinary approach blending graphics, , and product . Formative influences during this period included exposure to sociogeographic elements of British working-class environments and , which resonated with his roots and shaped his conceptual framework for utilitarian, industrial-inspired forms. Religious experiences from also contributed to his thematic explorations of identity and structure, informing a ethos rooted in raw, functional rather than ornamental excess. These elements, combined with graphic coursework, fostered Ross's rejection of conventional narratives in favor of material-driven, contextually grounded creativity.

Career beginnings

Apprenticeships and initial collaborations

Ross's entry into the design industry involved an initial internship with that evolved into a full-time role as his design assistant, spanning approximately three years around 2012 to 2015. In this capacity, Ross contributed to Abloh's projects at Kanye West's creative agency and early Off-White endeavors, gaining exposure to high-profile creative processes. During this period, Ross also handled print design for collections and assisted in West's collaboration with , marking his first forays into apparel graphics and aesthetics. These roles provided hands-on experience in fusing with , influenced by Abloh's mentorship and West's visionary input, though Ross later emphasized developing his approach amid such environments. This assistantship served as an informal , equipping Ross with practical skills in and conceptualization without formal training programs, and facilitating indirect collaborations through Abloh's . By late 2015, these experiences informed the launch of his own label, A-COLD-WALL*, though he credits the period for building foundational expertise rather than direct brand dependency.

Entry into fashion design

Ross initially pursued graphic design rather than formal fashion training, earning a BA in and contemporary illustration from in . After graduation, he began his professional career in product and at a practice in , which he later described as unfulfilling due to its conventional constraints. This period marked his early experimentation with and , laying groundwork for a shift toward apparel through self-directed projects. At age 19, around 2010, Ross launched his first label, 2wnt4 (later stylized as 2wnty4), producing limited-edition pieces informed by and unconventional material explorations that distinguished his aesthetic from mainstream contemporaries. The brand's modest success, achieved via online dissemination of designs, demonstrated his resourcefulness in bypassing traditional industry gateways, as he uploaded work hoping to attract collaborators without institutional backing. A pivotal entry point came in 2011–2012, when Ross, then 20 years old, cold-emailed —prior to Off-White's formal launch—and secured a position as Abloh's inaugural intern, assisting on nascent brand concepts tied to Kanye West's creative ecosystem. In this role, he contributed to high-volume design production, generating approximately 100 concepts daily while maintaining his day job, an intensive phase that honed his ability to integrate graphic principles with functional apparel and proved his viability in the competitive streetwear-to-luxury pipeline. This apprenticeship under Abloh, rooted in mutual outsider status rather than elite credentials, facilitated Ross's immersion in fashion's production and branding dynamics, transitioning him from isolated graphic endeavors to collaborative, market-facing design.

A-COLD-WALL* and fashion endeavors

Founding and core aesthetic

Samuel Ross founded A-COLD-WALL* in autumn 2015 at the age of 25, initially as a self-funded menswear label that evolved from an art project into an established . The brand emerged from Ross's prior experience as an assistant to , serving as an anthropological reflection on working-class British society, social dissonance, and . The core aesthetic of A-COLD-WALL* is defined by brutalist and industrial influences, drawing from British council estates, construction sites, and urban environments to create garments that function as "armour for the now"—a personal, protective architecture for the body. Ross self-describes the label as a "material study for social architecture," emphasizing raw textures like pebble-dash concrete, polythene sheets, and metal hardware integrated into sportswear, utilitarian uniforms, and tailored pieces. This approach reinterprets streetwear through meticulous construction, bold silhouettes, and graphic elements informed by class systems and graphic design, prioritizing utility, masculinity, and permanence over transient trends.

Commercial growth and partnerships

A-COLD-WALL*, established by Samuel Ross in 2015, pursued commercial expansion via high-profile footwear collaborations that broadened its distribution and visibility beyond initial channels. Early partnerships with commenced in 2017, featuring customized Air Force 1 released on October 21, 2017, followed by additional Low iterations in white/grey/black and black/white colorways on December 21, 2018, and January 10, 2019. These releases, priced around $190, gained traction in select retailers like Barneys and , signaling early market penetration. Subsequent alliances with from 2020 onward included the Chuck Taylor All Star Lugged and ERX models launched September 14, 2020; the Aeon Active CX on April 12, 2022, at $160 via Nike's SNKRS app; the Geo Forma Boot in late 2022; and a Summer 2023 collection released July 11, 2023. Such drops, often limited and available through A-COLD-WALL*'s webstore and outlets, amplified demand and positioned the brand within performance-oriented consumer segments. By 2022–2023, partnerships extended to , yielding modified 1460, 1461, and 1461 Bex boots for Fall/Winter 2022 (December 2022 release) and a nubuck 1461 Bex Low on May 25, 2023, at $330; and , with a premium footwear range launched May 12, 2023. These efforts, emphasizing durable, utilitarian designs, diversified revenue streams amid the brand's reported £16 million in total revenue before deductions for 2023. In 2024, Ross initiated a with , debuting functional menswear reflecting market maturity since A-COLD-WALL*'s inception, presented during Men's on January 27, 2025, to access mass retail scalability. Overall, these alliances evolved the label from underground origins to multimillion-dollar status, with stockists including luxury platforms and pop-up activations driving sustained commercial momentum.

Expansion beyond apparel

A-COLD-WALL* began diversifying its product offerings beyond core apparel items such as hoodies and T-shirts with the introduction of through strategic collaborations starting in 2018. The brand's inaugural major footwear partnership was with , launching a capsule collection on November 17, 2018, in , which featured modified versions of the Air Force 1 sneaker incorporating ACW's industrial motifs like metallic hardware and raw material finishes. This was followed by a collaboration debuting on the SS20 runway in June 2019 and releasing in September 2020, reimagining the Chuck Taylor All Star with lug soles and ergonomic reinforcements inspired by architectural functionality. Subsequent partnerships, including from 2020 onward and Timberland's Future73 capsule, emphasized durable, workwear-derived boots with ACW's signature utilitarian overlays, contributing to the brand's expansion into performance-oriented categories. In parallel, A-COLD-WALL* developed an in-house accessories line encompassing bags, belts, and caps, which integrated seamlessly with its apparel to form cohesive utilitarian ensembles. Bags such as the tote and crossbody, crafted from technical fabrics and featuring modular hardware, became staples, reflecting the brand's material study ethos and available via channels by 2020. collaborations, notably the second iteration with Retrosuperfuture in recent seasons, extended this scope with handmade frames blending contemporary optics and ACW's geometric detailing. These non-apparel extensions, supported by retail partnerships like END. and , broadened commercial accessibility while maintaining the label's focus on functional, architecture-infused design, with products priced from £75 for accessories to £300+ for footwear.

Industrial and product design

Establishment of Kulr-B

In 2019, Samuel Ross established SR_A (Samuel Ross ), his independent studio, as a platform to extend his practice beyond apparel into objects, furnishings, and spatial interventions, emphasizing raw and functional . The studio's formation followed Ross's growing collaborations in , including early work with brands like and Kenzo, and was motivated by a desire to apply his brutalist-influenced aesthetic—rooted in textures, forms, and socio-architectural commentary—to three-dimensional outputs. Co-founded with Yi Ng, SR_A operates from and prioritizes techniques alongside advanced to "beautify" utilitarian items, distinguishing it from Ross's prior fashion-focused endeavors. The studio's launch aligned with Ross's receipt of a Ph.D. in design from the Royal College of Art, where his research on "social " informed SR_A's ethos of merging personal narrative with engineered precision. Initial projects under SR_A included limited-edition hardware and fixtures, setting the stage for high-profile partnerships such as the 2023 Big Bang Tourbillon watch, which featured textured titanium cases evoking . Unlike A-COLD-WALL*'s emphasis, SR_A targets collectors and institutions, with outputs exhibited at venues like Design Miami, reflecting Ross's shift toward durable, investment-grade design amid fashion industry volatility. Funding for the studio derived from Ross's personal resources and A-COLD-WALL* revenues, enabling self-directed experimentation without immediate commercial pressures.

Key projects and collaborations

Ross established SR_A as his studio, focusing on projects spanning furniture, installations, and product innovations that emphasize raw materiality and functional abstraction. A pivotal collaboration emerged in 2023 with Kohler, initiating a multi-year that produced experimental fixtures, including the textured toilet unveiled at Milan Design Week in April 2024; this piece features hammered, industrial surfaces intended to elevate the utilitarian object toward sculptural form, subverting expectations of sanitaryware aesthetics. In parallel, Ross partnered with Friedman Benda gallery for furniture and sculptural works, debuting the "HEAVE" exhibition in , which explored industrial materials like utility cloth and masonry paint in seating and modular pieces derived from his Brutalist influences and early experience. These efforts extended to public realm design, such as custom benches installed in in late , crafted from and to integrate urban functionality with abstracted forms reminiscent of architectural remnants. Further projects included product collaborations with luxury brands like for the Tourbillon watch in 2023, incorporating Ross's signature utilitarian motifs into high-end horology, and an immersive installation titled "TRANSPOSITION"—a "vertical river" sculpture—for The Balvenie at Design Week in April 2025, blending sound, water elements, and industrial fabrication to evoke fluid material . SR_A's scope also encompassed limited-edition items like vessels for in 2023 and faucet designs, underscoring Ross's shift toward tangible, experiential objects beyond apparel.

Recent developments

Departure from A-COLD-WALL*

On February 20, 2024, announced the sale of his majority shareholding in to , the London-based investment firm that had held a minority stake in the brand since 2017, resulting in his departure from the company he founded in 2015. The transaction transferred 100% ownership to , with financial terms undisclosed, though the brand reported a gross merchandise value of £16 million in 2023. Ross described the sale as amicable and reflective of the brand's strong positioning for future growth, expressing satisfaction with having scaled from a bedroom operation into a global entity focused on material innovation and industrial aesthetics. He indicated that the move enabled him to redirect efforts toward designing products under his personal namesake, , emphasizing a shift from brand stewardship to independent creative exploration. Following Ross's exit, A-COLD-WALL* leadership transitioned to its core operational team, with creative direction handled by long-time collaborators William Slocombe and Liam Hassimi, rather than appointing a singular new ; the brand maintained its commitment to ongoing collections and expansion without immediate disruption. In November 2024, Tomorrow Ltd subsequently sold the brand to Four Marketing, a Frasers Group-backed entity, less than a year after acquiring full control from Ross.

Post-2024 ventures and critiques

In 2024, following the sale of his majority stake in A-COLD-WALL* to Tomorrow Ltd., Samuel Ross established SR_A (Studio Research Attire), a new apparel venture focused on redefining luxury beyond conventions through abstracted, research-driven forms. The brand debuted its inaugural collection in September 2024, emphasizing modular silhouettes and material experimentation as a response to perceived oversaturation in contemporary fashion. Ross expanded SR_A into collaborative projects in 2025, including a multi-chapter with titled "SR_A Engineered by Zara." The first installment, unveiled during Men's on January 25, 2025, featured utilitarian outerwear and accessories with geometric patterning, followed by retail availability in February; subsequent phases incorporated furniture and objects, positioning the line as a "collective vision" bridging high design and mass accessibility. In parallel, Ross co-founded the entity SR_A with Ng, which produced the "" installation—a sculptural "vertical river" of whisky casks and mirrored surfaces—for The Balvenie at Design Week on April 8, 2025, exploring material transposition and sensory immersion. Ross assumed the role of for the London Design Biennale 2025, curating the theme "Surface Reflections" to provoke reflection on design's societal role. In a June 2025 interview, he critiqued the broader design sector for "sustaining mediocrity" through and insufficient political engagement, arguing that British design must adopt greater urgency to address real-world inequities rather than aesthetic novelty alone. These views, drawn from his upbringing and industrial influences, underscore his push for designs grounded in functional critique over ornamental trends, though some observers noted the tension between such rhetoric and commercial expansions like the Zara tie-up.

Design philosophy

Influences from Brutalism and personal experience

Ross's aesthetic in A-COLD-WALL* is profoundly shaped by , which he interprets through the lens of urban environments encountered during his formative years in . Born in in 1991 to parents of descent from the generation, Ross grew up amid post-war concrete structures and council estates that exemplified Brutalism's raw, utilitarian ethos—marked by exposed materials like pebble-dash and aggregate textures that conveyed both permanence and socio-economic constraint. These surroundings instilled a design sensibility prioritizing functionality over ornamentation, viewing as a "social" force that structures daily life and resilience. This personal immersion in Brutalist landscapes directly informs his translation of architectural motifs into apparel and objects, where industrial concrete's monolithic forms and weathered patinas inspire garment constructions with rigid silhouettes, reinforced seams, and material contrasts evoking and adaptation. Ross has articulated that his work stems from "living with brutalism," particularly the estates' imposing scales and neutral palettes, which he reinterprets as protective "armor for the now"—a bodily extension of environmental designed for endurance in contemporary settings. Over the brand's development since 2015, these influences have extended to specific references like pebbledash renderings and Bauhaus-adjacent Brutalist hybrids, evident in collections featuring molded panels and textured finishes that mimic concrete's tactile honesty. Ross's experiences of navigating 's multicultural, post-industrial milieu—balancing heritage with urban grit—further embed themes of cultural and material awakening in his , where Brutalism serves as a for imposed yet adaptable identities. This is not abstract theorizing but grounded in his observation of how such enforces narratives, prompting designs that challenge wearer passivity through assertive, environment-responsive forms. His relocation between and during childhood amplified exposure to varied architectural typologies, reinforcing a commitment to deconstructing and reassembling these elements into functional art that critiques rather than romanticizes their origins.

Views on industry practices and sustainability

Samuel Ross has critiqued the industry for perpetuating mediocrity through and homogenization, arguing that it prioritizes comfort over and singular aesthetics over substantive progress. In a June 2025 interview, he stated, "I feel it can be a little bit too close to sustaining mediocrity and not enough risk involved," while advocating for to engage politically as an "equaliser" that addresses broader social systems and national identities. He emphasized the urgency for British to "reassert itself" by pushing against complacency and fostering radical engagement with real-world issues. Regarding sustainability, Ross maintains that it extends beyond superficial measures like , requiring a fundamental reconception of material interactions and workflows to minimize environmental harm. In a 2019 discussion, he highlighted industry reliance on non-degradable synthetics driven by cost, convenience, and aesthetics, noting ongoing challenges in sourcing alternatives but stressing the need for designers to "build relationships with sustainable fabric makers" from the outset. His brand A-COLD-WALL* has incorporated materials such as Tencel and Pinatex in collections, aiming to integrate durability and ethical sourcing into core practices rather than as afterthoughts. Ross has applied these principles in collaborations, notably influencing Zara's SR_A line launched in 2025, where he advocated for forgoing nearly all synthetics in favor of cottons and sustainable dyes, while capping prices at £250 to enhance accessibility and counter inflated costs like £800 hoodies. He also supports preserving artisanal skills through Britain-made pieces, viewing local production as a counter to globalized, profit-optimized practices that erode craft. These efforts reflect his broader push for industry accountability, prioritizing long-term viability over short-term gains.

Recognition

Fashion and design awards

In 2018, Ross received the British Fashion Award for Emerging Menswear of the Year, recognizing his contributions through A-COLD-WALL*. That same year, he was selected as a recipient of the British Fashion Council's initiative, providing and support for emerging designers. In 2019, Ross won the BFC/ of the Year Menswear Fund, which included a £150,000 prize and a 12-month mentoring program to advance his brand's development, particularly in tailoring. He also earned the Design Prize for his innovative fusion of industrial aesthetics and fashion. Ross was awarded the GQ Fashion Award in 2020 for his ongoing influence in menswear. In 2021, he received the British Fashion Council's People of the Year award, highlighting his broader cultural impact. Additional honors include the London Chamber of Commerce's Outstanding Contribution to Fashion award in 2022 and the Soho House Award in the same year. Ross has noted receiving three British Fashion Awards and two GQ awards overall, underscoring his repeated recognition in the industry.

Exhibitions and critical acclaim

Samuel Ross has presented solo exhibitions at prominent galleries, including COARSE (2023) at Friedman Benda in , his second show there featuring sculptural works exploring raw industrial materials. Earlier, LAND (2022) at in examined industrial materials like utility cloth and masonry paint alongside themes of collapsed landscapes and experience. In 2025, Ross debuted TRANSPOSITION in collaboration with The Balvenie at Milan Design Week, showcasing engineered objects from his atelier SR_A. Museum exhibitions include HEAVE (January 24–July 6, 2025) at the SCAD Museum of Art in , where Ross displayed multimedia works analyzing raw materials and functionality through a British-Caribbean lens. His piece Birth at Dawn (2023) was featured at the RISD Museum, linking West African furniture design with post-industrial forms to explore body, material, and memory. Ross also participated in the group show Nue Black Aesthetic at the in , highlighting contemporary designers' influence on the industry. Ross's work has garnered critical praise for its multidisciplinary approach fusing art, design, and fashion, often lauded for material innovation and Brutalist influences. Reviewers have described his COARSE sculptures as "stunningly artful" despite their industrial roots, emphasizing a refined aesthetic beyond mere design functionality. Publications like 032c have hailed him as a designer whose medium is design itself, disciplined yet expansive across forms. The Financial Times noted his critical engagement with painting, sculpture, and drawing underpinning commercial practice, while earlier acclaim for A-COLD-WALL* included finalist status for the LVMH Prize in 2018, signaling rising industry recognition.

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