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Colter's Hell

Colter's Hell is a historic geothermal area encompassing approximately one square mile of mostly inactive fumaroles, hot springs, and extinct geyser cones along the Shoshone River near Cody in Park County, Wyoming.^[1]^[2] Named after explorer John Colter, who traversed the region in 1807–1808 as part of his solo journey through the Yellowstone area, the site represents the first recorded encounter by a European-American with Wyoming's thermal features.^[3]^[1] Colter's vivid descriptions of boiling springs, sulfurous odors, and bubbling mud initially drew skepticism from contemporaries, leading to the mocking moniker "Colter's Hell," though it later gained recognition as a testament to his pioneering observations.^[4]^[3] Geologically, Colter's Hell forms part of the broader Cody Hydrothermal System, where groundwater heated by the normal geothermal gradient circulates eastward from the Absaroka Mountains and emerges along structural features like the Rattlesnake anticline, without direct ties to recent volcanic activity.^[2] Notable features include a prominent 30-foot travertine cone, sulfur-bearing hot springs with temperatures ranging from 73°F to 93°F, deep sinkholes up to 40 feet, and a once-famous boiling tar spring now submerged under the Buffalo Bill Reservoir.^[2]^[4] The area holds significant historical value, listed on the National Register of Historic Places since 1973, and was corroborated by later explorers such as mountain man Joseph Meek in 1830 and Crow leader Chief Plenty Coups in the 1840s, distinguishing it from Yellowstone's more active thermal zones.^[1]^[4] Today, it serves as an interpretive site highlighting early American exploration and the region's natural geothermal heritage, accessible via a short trail for visitors.^[1]

History

Naming and Association with John Colter

John Colter, having joined the Lewis and Clark Expedition in 1803 and departing in 1806, undertook a solo exploration of the Yellowstone region during the winter of 1807–1808 while employed by Manuel Lisa's Missouri Fur Company. Departing from Fort Raymond at the confluence of the Bighorn and Yellowstone rivers, Colter traveled approximately 500 miles westward, crossing the Continental Divide via Teton Pass and venturing into areas including Jackson Hole and the vicinity of Yellowstone Lake. There, he encountered extraordinary hydrothermal features—geysers erupting steaming water, colorful boiling springs, and mud pots emitting a rotten-egg sulfur odor—which he vividly described as landscapes of "fire and brimstone." Historians debate the precise extent of Colter's route, with some questioning whether he personally observed Yellowstone's core geyser basins or if his accounts drew from the milder thermal features of the Shoshone River area (later known as Colter's Hell) and Native American reports.^[3]^[5]^[6] Upon returning to St. Louis in 1810, Colter's eyewitness accounts were largely met with incredulity, dismissed as fanciful fabrications or "tall tales" by listeners unaccustomed to such phenomena. British naturalist John Bradbury, who met Colter during his 1809–1811 travels, recorded elements of these narratives in his journal, noting the explorer's recent marriage and relaying stories that fueled ongoing doubt among eastern audiences and fellow frontiersmen. This skepticism persisted among early 19th-century settlers and trappers, who viewed the descriptions as implausible exaggerations of western wilderness perils.^[5]^[7] The moniker "Colter's Hell" emerged in the 1810s and 1820s within fur-trapping circles as a derisive nod to these disbelieved yarns, initially applied broadly to imagined infernal regions but soon pinpointed to the geothermal area along the Shoshone River (then called the Stinking Water) west of present-day Cody, Wyoming. This site's steaming vents, hot springs, and sulfurous deposits evoked a hellish tableau that trappers like Joe Meek referenced in 1830 as a "volcanic tract" Colter had traversed, while Washington Irving's 1837 account echoed the area's "gloomy terrors" and pervasive "smell of brimstone." The name, born of mockery, honored Colter's pathfinding amid the Shoshone's thermal oddities, distinguishing it from broader Yellowstone wonders.^[5]^[8] Gradually, acceptance dawned as later expeditions corroborated Colter's reports; the 1870 Hayden Geological Survey, led by Ferdinand V. Hayden, systematically documented Yellowstone's geysers, hot springs, and mud pots, transforming public perception from ridicule to recognition of Colter as the first Euro-American explorer of these surreal domains. This validation, detailed in Hayden's reports, confirmed the reality of the features Colter had sketched on William Clark's 1814 map and solidified "Colter's Hell" as a testament to his endurance and veracity.^[3]^[5]

Exploration by Fur Trappers

In the mid-1820s, fur trappers employed by William Henry Ashley ventured into the remote Bighorn Basin along the Shoshone River as part of his ambitious overland expeditions to expand the Rocky Mountain fur trade. During the 1824 expedition, Jedediah Smith led a party that explored southward from the Yellowstone River, crossing into the basin and encountering a landscape of steaming vents, bubbling mud pots, and sulfurous pools that closely resembled the "boiling springs" John Colter had reported nearly two decades earlier. Ashley's 1825 follow-up efforts, involving trappers like Thomas Fitzpatrick, further mapped the region, solidifying the thermal basin's reputation among the men as "Colter's Hell" due to its hellish, otherworldly appearance and the lingering skepticism about Colter's tales.^[8] By 1835, Osborne Russell, a young trapper with Nathaniel Wyeth's company turned independent operative, provided one of the earliest firsthand written accounts of the site's geothermal phenomena during his traversals near the Shoshone River headwaters and adjacent valleys. In his journal, Russell noted the presence of several hot springs along the "Stinking River" (an early name for the Shoshone, alluding to its sulfurous emissions), where the stench was detectable 5–6 miles away with the wind, along with large quarries of gypsum, lead deposits, and bituminous coal beds. These observations highlighted the basin's active hydrothermal system and its challenges for travelers, including risks of scalding terrain and poisonous gases.^[9] The thermal basin played a practical role in the fur trade's rendezvous system, serving as a recognizable landmark for parties navigating the rugged northwest. Trappers en route to the 1832 Pierre's Hole rendezvous, for instance, used the Shoshone River valley and its distinctive "hellish" features to orient themselves after crossing South Pass, avoiding denser Blackfoot territories to the north while plotting safer paths through Jackson Hole. Similarly, gatherings at Green River from 1825 onward relied on the basin as a reference point for supply trains led by figures like Fitzpatrick, who incorporated it into route planning to skirt unstable volcanic ground and capitalize on nearby beaver streams for trapping. This integration of the site into trapper lore and logistics helped anchor the expanding network of overland trails amid the era's competitive fur pursuits.^[5]

Later Historical Accounts

In 1871, Ferdinand V. Hayden's U.S. Geological Survey expedition explored the Shoshone River valley and documented the thermal features of Colter's Hell, describing sulphur springs, hot springs, and fumaroles that marked the site's geothermal activity, which appeared less vigorous and more subdued than the explosive geysers and basins observed farther north in the Yellowstone region. The team's findings, including maps labeling the area as "Sulphur Springs, Colter's Hell" and illustrative sketches, were detailed in the Preliminary Report of the United States Geological Survey of Wyoming, contributing to early scientific recognition of the site's distinct hydrothermal character.^[10] During the 1890s, William F. "Buffalo Bill" Cody, a prominent showman and entrepreneur, elevated the area's profile through his Wild West performances, which dramatized frontier tales including John Colter's legendary trek and the evocative "hellish" landscapes of the West, fostering public fascination with such sites as symbols of American adventure. Cody further influenced local development by founding the town of Cody, Wyoming, in 1896 adjacent to Colter's Hell, promoting settlement and economic growth in the region while tying it to broader narratives of pioneer heritage rather than its geothermal elements. Hiram M. Chittenden's influential 1895 publication, The Yellowstone National Park: Historical and Descriptive, examined Colter's 1807-1808 expedition and the origins of the "Colter's Hell" moniker, distinguishing the core site along the Shoshone River—characterized by medicinal springs, sulfurous emissions, and subterranean rumbles—from Yellowstone's more spectacular geyser fields, yet reinforcing the dramatic name in accounts of regional exploration for popular audiences. This work, drawing on earlier trapper lore and missionary reports like Father Pierre Jean De Smet's 1852 description, helped solidify Colter's Hell's place in historical literature while underscoring its separation from the national park's boundaries.^[4]

Geography and Description

Location and Extent

Colter's Hell is situated in Park County, Wyoming, United States, approximately 5 miles west of the town of Cody, at the mouth of the Shoshone River canyon. Its central coordinates are approximately 44°31′N 109°06′W. This positioning places it along the north bank of the Shoshone River, where the river emerges from its canyon into the broader floodplain.^[1]^[11] The site encompasses roughly one square mile of terrain, fanning out from the river's north bank and including the remnants of an ancient geyser basin within the Shoshone River floodplain. This compact area defines the core of the hydrothermal district, with boundaries generally aligned along the river and extending into adjacent benches.^[1] Colter's Hell occupies a transitional landscape between the rugged Absaroka Mountains to the south and the expansive Bighorn Basin to the north, reflecting the region's diverse topography. Although located about 50 miles east of Yellowstone National Park's east entrance, it functions as a separate geothermal feature outside the park boundaries.^[12]^[13]

Physical Features

Colter's Hell encompasses approximately one square mile of terrain at the mouth of Shoshone Canyon, just west of Cody, Wyoming, where the landscape fans out as a broad, gently sloping terrace along the Shoshone River.^[1]^[14] This area features remnants of an extinct geyser basin, including visible craters, large geyser cones—some reaching up to 30 feet in height—and scattered rocky outcrops formed by past hydrothermal activity.^[11]^[2] Evidence of historical erosion from geyser eruptions is evident in silt deposits and terraced travertine formations along the canyon walls and riverbanks, contributing to a rugged yet relatively flat alluvial plain dotted with sagebrush and occasional cottonwood trees in the river bottom. Deep sinkholes up to 40 feet mark former hot pools.^[14]^[2] The Shoshone River forms the southern boundary of the site, integrating deeply with the geothermal system as it flows through the canyon mouth and across the terrace. Thermal influences from subsurface hot springs elevate the river's water temperatures in localized areas, with occasional steam rising from the banks and streambed hot spots becoming visible during low water levels. Sulfur-bearing hot springs have temperatures ranging from 73°F to 93°F.^[11]^[14] Fumaroles and minor vents along the river release hydrogen sulfide gas, imparting a characteristic sulfurous odor to the surrounding air.^[11] Vegetation in Colter's Hell is limited due to the heat, mineral-rich soils, and alkaline conditions from past hydrothermal activity, resulting in sparse sagebrush cover and isolated cottonwood groves near the river. Thermophilic algae thrive in the remaining shallow hot spring pools, forming colorful mats that adapt to the elevated temperatures. While no species are endemic to the site, historical accounts note bison grazing in nearby riverine areas, though modern biodiversity remains typical of the surrounding sagebrush steppe without unique adaptations.^[15]^[14]

Geology

Formation and Hydrothermal System

Colter's Hell is part of the Cody Hydrothermal System, a low-temperature geothermal area covering approximately 2,700 km² in the Bighorn Basin near Cody, Wyoming. Unlike the magmatic systems of Yellowstone, this hydrothermal activity is driven by the normal geothermal gradient, with no connection to recent volcanism or the Yellowstone hotspot.^[2]^[16] Meteoric water from snowmelt and rainfall recharges in the Absaroka Mountains to the west and circulates eastward through permeable Paleozoic aquifers, including the Cambrian Madison Limestone and Permian Tensleep Sandstone, reaching depths of 250–600 meters. There, it is heated conductively to 46–59°C (115–138°F) by the Earth's geothermal gradient of about 16°C per kilometer. The warmed fluids then rise along structural weaknesses, such as fractures and anticlinal axes, to emerge as hot springs and fumaroles at surface temperatures of 23–37°C (73–99°F).^[16]^[2] As the waters surface and cool, they precipitate calcium carbonate to form travertine deposits, including a prominent 30-foot (9 m) cone near the site, and minor sulfur minerals. Other features include a 40-foot (12 m) deep sinkhole from collapsed hot pools and low-flow hot springs like DeMaris (28–37°C, 6,400 L/min total) and Shoshone (28–34°C, 190 L/min). A historical boiling tar spring, rich in hydrocarbons, is now submerged under the Buffalo Bill Reservoir. The system's activity has been mostly inactive since the mid-20th century, with no geysers or vigorous venting recorded.^[2]^[16]

Relation to Regional Tectonics

Colter's Hell lies within the Bighorn Basin, a Laramide foreland basin formed 70–40 million years ago during the subduction of the Farallon Plate beneath North America, which uplifted the Rocky Mountains and created compressional structures like the Rattlesnake and Horse Center anticlines.^[16] These anticlines, composed of folded Paleozoic carbonates and sandstones, serve as permeable conduits for ascending hydrothermal fluids, while a syncline to the west facilitates deeper circulation.^[16] Groundwater flow is topographically driven eastward from recharge in the Eocene Absaroka Volcanic Field (inactive for over 45 million years) into the basin, with no evidence of active faulting like a Shoshone River graben controlling the system. The broader region shows minor Basin and Range extension to the west, but the Cody area remains stable under Laramide compression.^[16]^[2] Approximately 50 miles (80 km) east of Yellowstone National Park, Colter's Hell operates independently of the hotspot track, as a low-enthalpy convective system without magmatic input. This contrasts with Yellowstone's high-temperature features, emphasizing regional variations in Wyoming's geothermal expressions. Historical events like the Eocene Heart Mountain detachment do not influence current dynamics.^[16]^[17]

Significance and Modern Context

Cultural and Historical Importance

Colter's Hell occupies a prominent place in American frontier mythology, symbolizing the perils and wonders of early exploration narratives. John Colter's 1807–1808 traversal of the region, where he encountered steaming vents and boiling pools, led to tales that were initially dismissed by contemporaries as fabrications, earning the area its mocking moniker.^[4] This skepticism underscored the challenges of conveying the American West's extraordinary landscapes to Eastern audiences, embedding Colter's Hell in the lore of rugged individualism and uncharted territories. The site's legacy in literature began with Washington Irving's 1837 adaptation of Captain Benjamin Bonneville's journals, which vividly depicted Colter's Hell as a desolate expanse of "gloomy terrors" with hidden fires, smoking pits, and sulfurous odors, portraying it as an infernal frontier.^[4] This early reference influenced subsequent Western novels, such as A. B. Guthrie Jr.'s 1947 epic The Big Sky, where the area is invoked as a hellish underworld beneath the earth's surface, reinforcing its role as a metaphor for the untamed West and contributing to Wyoming's image as a "wonderland" of natural spectacle.^[18] In Cody, Wyoming—founded by Buffalo Bill Cody—the thermal area is woven into local identity through institutions like the Buffalo Bill Center of the West, whose exhibits and publications, such as Points West magazine, highlight Colter's journeys as exemplars of American ingenuity in confronting harsh environments.^[19] Broader cultural impacts include its embodiment of 19th-century doubts about geothermal phenomena, paralleling the incredulity toward Yellowstone's geysers until their verification in 1870.^[8]

Current Status and Visitation

Colter's Hell is now largely inactive, with geothermal activity having dwindled significantly since the late 19th century, leaving only a few persistent hot springs and fumaroles that emit sulfurous gases, including hydrogen sulfide, along the Shoshone River.^[1]^[11] The remaining features, such as those at DeMaris Hot Springs within the district, produce a notable flow of thermal water but no longer include active geysers or major eruptions, which ceased in prehistoric times; the area poses only minor seismic risks as part of the broader regional hydrothermal system, though it is not subject to dedicated volcanic monitoring.^[16] Public access to Colter's Hell is available via roadside pullouts along U.S. Highway 14/16/20 approximately 5 miles west of Cody, Wyoming, allowing visitors to view the thermal features from safe vantage points. A short, self-guided Colter's Hell Interpretive Trail, established in 2005, offers a 0.5-mile loop with informational signs detailing the site's history and geology, installed through efforts by local preservation groups and state historic offices.^[20]^[21] No extensive trail network exists due to the unstable terrain around the hydrothermal vents, and visitors are advised to stay on marked paths to avoid hazards like scalding water and collapsing ground.^[11] The site was added to the National Register of Historic Places in 1973 as a historic and prehistoric archaeological district, recognizing its significance in early exploration and Native American use, with management overseen by Park County and the Wyoming State Historic Preservation Office to address natural erosion along the riverbanks.^[22]^[1] Low annual visitation, primarily from highway travelers en route to Yellowstone National Park, helps maintain the area's quiet and unaltered condition, minimizing impacts from tourism while preserving its remnants for educational purposes.^[23]

References

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Colter's Hell - the Wyoming State Historic Preservation Office!
Colter's Hell is an almost inactive geyser district occurring over approximately one square mile of terrain occupying and fanning out from the mouth of the ...
[2]
[PDF] Cody Hydrothermal System - Geology of Wyoming
The area just north of Colter's Hell is a broad terrace that exhibits several hydrothermal features. The most dramatic feature is a large 40 foot deep ...
[3]
Colter's Hell: Tales of the First European-American to Step Foot in ...
May 20, 2019 · ... Colter's Hell"—a name that started as a joke by Colter's disbelieving audiences, but is now a mark of respect for Colter's incredible journey.
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Grand Teton NP/Yellowstone NP: Colter's Hell and Jackson's Hole ...
There was a Colter's Hell in the fur trappers lexicon, which referred specifically to an ancient thermal area bordering the Shoshone River just west of present ...
[5]
Colter's Hell and Jackson's Hole, by By Merrill J. Mattes
[Colter's] adventures was long derisively known as 'Colter's Hell,'” implying that by “region” he meant Yellowstone Park, the subject of his book. He does not ...<|control11|><|separator|>
[6]
[PDF] Bradbury's Travels in the Interior of America, 1809–1811 - Loc
Bradbury's Travels in the Interior of America, 1809–1811 http://www.loc.gov ... Boone; to Bradbury we owe much of our knowledge of John Colter's extraordinary.
[7]
The Fur Trade in Wyoming | WyoHistory.org
Nov 8, 2014 · In the 1820s and 1830s, what's now western Wyoming was at the center of the fur trade of the northern Rocky Mountains. Indians, trappers and ...
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Journal of a Trapper, by Osborne Russell - XMission
Russell, Osborne, 1814-1892. Osborne Russell's Journal of a trapper : edited from the original manuscript in the William Robertson Coe Collection of Western ...Missing: text | Show results with:text
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[Fourth Annual] Preliminary Report of the United States Geological ...
[Fourth Annual] Preliminary Report of the United States Geological Survey of Wyoming and portions of contiguous Territories (being a second annual report ... 1871.Missing: FV PDF
[10]
Colter's Hell & Extinct Geyser Basin - The Historical Marker Database
Jul 25, 2015 · Colter's Hell is a large, mostly extinct, geyser basin. Today ... 44° 30.825′ N, 109° 6.309′ W. Marker is in Cody, Wyoming, in Park ...
[11]
Grand Teton NP/Yellowstone NP: Colter's Hell and Jackson's Hole ...
In 1933 Aubrey Lyon, a neighbor, obtained the "stone head" in trade for a pair of riding boots, and presented it to park officials. Yellowstone Colter's Hell ...
[12]
https://www.nps.gov/parkhistory/online_books/grte1/chap3.htm
[13]
[PDF] Colter's Hell_8/14/1973 - Amazon S3
Wyoming Recreation Commission, Survey of Historical Sites, Markers & Mon. ... "Colter's Hell" is an aJjnoAt, but not quite ... 44 ° 31 ' 07 □ 109 ° 07' 24” o. > □.
[14]
How Yellowstone thermal features get their names - USGS.gov
Dec 11, 2023 · ... Colter, who described “Colter's Hell” as early as 1807–1808, and then with prospectors (1860's), explorers that included the Folsom ...Missing: Annual | Show results with:Annual
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Environmental Setting of the Yellowstone River Basin, Geology
The Absaroka volcanic field and the Yellowstone Plateau are the two major post-Laramide (Late Cretaceous through Paleocene) volcanic fields in the YRB. The ...
[16]
Dynamics of the Yellowstone hydrothermal system - AGU Journals
Jun 9, 2014 · The YPVF was formed during three eruptive cycles over the past 2.1 million years [Christiansen, 2001]. The volcanic system emerged from a ...
[17]
Yellowstone's Active Hydrothermal System - USGS.gov
In Yellowstone, hot springs can form from 1) silica-bearing alkaline chloride waters, 2) travertine-forming calcium carbonate waters, or 3) steam condensation ...Missing: processes | Show results with:processes
[18]
[PDF] Henry P. Heasler Work Performed under Cooperative ... - OSTI
The hot springs of Colter's Hell are the surface manifestations of a much larger hydrothermal system. That system has been studied to define its extent, maximum.
[19]
[PDF] The Yellowstone Hotspot, Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem, and ...
D, Excelsior Pool in Middle Geyser Basin. Painting by Thomas. Moran. C, Castle Geyser in Upper Geyser Basin. Photograph from NPS. B, Mud Pots. Mud is formed ...
[20]
[PDF] Geologic Field-Trip Guide to the Volcanic and Hydrothermal ...
Cody,. Wyoming. Big Horn Basin. SRP. YP. A'. A. A. Yellowstone. Plateau. EAST ... Upper-mantle origin of the Yellowstone hotspot: Geological. Society of ...
[21]
The Big Sky: Colter's Hell - Humanities Montana
“They put a proper name to it, all right, callin' it Colter's Hell.” Hell might lie underneath, sure enough, in the great unseen hole that echoed to the ...
[22]
From "Thorofare" to Destination–South Fork of the Shoshone River ...
May 15, 2020 · Fur trapper Joe Meek and a group of trappers camped at “Colter's Hell” near present-day Cody, Wyoming, in 1830. Meek later noted, “This ...Missing: founding | Show results with:founding
[23]
Colter's Hell Interpretive Trail takes visitors back in time
"There's 10,000 to 13,000 years of history on this one spot." Now, those who tour the Colter's Hell Interpretive Trail can find out all about it on a new, self- ...Missing: pullouts | Show results with:pullouts
[24]
Colter's Hell Trail, Wyoming - 9 Reviews, Map | AllTrails
Rating 4.0 (9) Colter's Hell Trail is considered an easy hike that covers 0.5 mi, with an elevation gain of 6 ft. It takes about 0.5–1 hr to complete. Easy trails are ...
[25]
NPGallery Asset Detail - National Park Service
Aug 14, 1973 · Title: Colter's Hell ; National Register Information System ID: 73001937 ; Applicable Criteria: EVENT PERSON ; Areas Of Significance: EXPLORATION/ ...Missing: extent | Show results with:extent
[26]
[PDF] 2025 ADVENTURE VACATION GUIDE | Cody Yellowstone
Dec 20, 2024 · Turnout for Colter's Hell, discovered by John Colter in 1807. Stinking Water River later became Shoshone River. 48.8. 2.60. Extinct Travertine ...