GR 70
The GR 70, also known as the Chemin de Stevenson or Stevenson's Trail, is a celebrated long-distance hiking path in southern France that traces the 1878 journey of Scottish author Robert Louis Stevenson through the Massif Central and Cévennes regions.[1] This Grande Randonnée (GR) trail, officially waymarked by the French Federation of Hiking (FFRandonnée), extends 272 kilometers from Le Puy-en-Velay in the Haute-Loire department to Alès in the Gard department, crossing diverse terrains including volcanic plateaus, dense forests, granite highlands, and schistous valleys.[2][1] Typically completed in 12 to 15 days, it features a total elevation gain of about 7,655 meters, with the highest point at 1,699 meters on Mont Lozère, and is designated as a European Cultural Route for its literary and historical value.[1][3] Stevenson's travels, undertaken for health reasons with his donkey Modestine, inspired his 1879 travelogue Travels with a Donkey in the Cévennes (originally Voyage avec un âne dans les Cévennes), which vividly captures the rugged beauty, solitude, and cultural encounters of the route, popularizing hiking as a form of leisurely self-discovery.[3] The trail passes through departments of Haute-Loire, Lozère, Ardèche, and Gard, encompassing protected areas like the Cévennes National Park and offering hikers immersion in unspoiled natural landscapes, medieval villages, and sites tied to the 18th-century Camisard Protestant rebellions, evoking a spirit of freedom and resilience.[1][3] Managed under the GR network by FFRandonnée, the path is divided into 14 stages in its official topo-guide, with white-over-red markings ensuring accessibility for experienced walkers, though its varied difficulty—ranging from gentle ridges to steep ascents—requires good physical preparation and seasonal awareness, as autumn provides optimal conditions with fewer crowds and vibrant foliage.[1] Beyond recreation, the GR 70 promotes eco-tourism and cultural heritage, attracting thousands annually to explore its biodiversity, from chestnut groves to alpine meadows, while supporting local economies through gîtes and trail infrastructure.[3]History
Stevenson's 1878 Journey
In 1878, Robert Louis Stevenson, a 27-year-old Scottish writer plagued by chronic bronchial issues and seeking the restorative effects of fresh mountain air, embarked on a solitary hiking expedition through the Cévennes region of south-central France to alleviate his fragile health.[4][5] Having recently returned from a separation from his American love interest, Fanny Osbourne, Stevenson chose this rugged terrain for its isolation and invigorating climate, aiming to embrace a simpler, outdoor existence amid personal and professional uncertainties.[4] On September 22, Stevenson arrived in Le Monastier-sur-Gazeille, where he purchased a small gray donkey named Modestine to carry his sleeping sack, cooking gear, and provisions, equipping her with a makeshift pack-saddle after local advice proved unhelpful.[6] He departed the next morning, Monday, September 23, beginning a 12-day trek covering approximately 225 kilometers southward to Saint-Jean-du-Gard, arriving on October 3.[6] Daily progress averaged 20 to 30 kilometers, with overnight stops at villages such as Goudet, Bouchet-Saint-Nicolas, Pradelles, Langogne, Cheylard-l'Évêque, and Florac, where he navigated steep paths, chestnut woods, and plateaus while contending with persistent rain, hail, and biting winds that tested his endurance and Modestine's stubborn pace.[6] Along the way, Stevenson encountered hospitable peasants, Protestant villagers in the historically tense Cévennes, Trappist monks at Notre-Dame-des-Neiges monastery—who viewed him warily as a heretic—and fellow travelers like a Plymouth Brother, sharing meals, tales of local lore, and debates on faith amid the sparse, impoverished landscapes.[6][7] Throughout the journey, Stevenson reflected deeply on themes of solitude, the rhythms of nature, and human resilience, finding philosophical solace in the donkey's companionship despite her frequent halts and the physical toll of whipping her onward, ultimately selling Modestine in Saint-Jean-du-Gard upon reaching his destination.[6] These experiences, vividly captured in his journal-like prose, formed the basis for his 1879 publication Travels with a Donkey in the Cévennes, released by C. Kegan Paul & Co. in London, which chronicles the route's dramatic scenery—from volcanic craters to rushing rivers—and cultural encounters with wry humor and introspection.[6][7]Development as a Marked Trail
The route followed by Robert Louis Stevenson in 1878, as detailed in his travelogue Travels with a Donkey in the Cévennes, gradually evolved into a formalized long-distance hiking path in the late 20th century.[8] The French Hiking Federation (Fédération Française de la Randonnée Pédestre, or FFRP) officially designated the trail as GR 70 in 1978, marking it with the standard white-over-red stripes used for all Grande Randonnée (GR) paths to guide hikers along the approximately 250-kilometer core route from Le Monastier-sur-Gazeille to Saint-Jean-du-Gard.[8][9] This recognition integrated the path into France's national network of maintained long-distance trails, emphasizing its literary and natural heritage value while ensuring consistent signage and accessibility.[8] In 1994, the Association Sur le Chemin de Robert Louis Stevenson was founded to support the trail's development, focusing on detailed mapping, ongoing maintenance, and promotional activities to attract hikers and boost local economies.[10][11] The association collaborates closely with local authorities in the Haute-Loire, Lozère, and Gard departments, coordinating with volunteers and institutions to preserve the path, update guides, and organize events that highlight its cultural significance.[10] Subsequent expansions have extended the trail's reach, incorporating the GR 430 variant from Le Puy-en-Velay to Le Monastier-sur-Gazeille (adding roughly 25 kilometers) and connections from Saint-Jean-du-Gard to Alès via sections of the GR 61 and GR 44 D, resulting in a total length of approximately 268 kilometers across diverse landscapes.[1][12] These additions, facilitated by the FFRP and the association, allow hikers to start or end in major towns with improved transport links, enhancing the trail's practicality without altering its core historical alignment.[11]Route
Overall Path and Length
The GR 70, also known as the Chemin de Stevenson, traces the approximate path of Robert Louis Stevenson's 1878 journey through the Cévennes with his donkey Modestine, as recounted in Travels with a Donkey in the Cévennes.[8] The official route spans 272 km from Le Puy-en-Velay in the Haute-Loire department to Alès in the Gard department.[2] The core segment following Stevenson's journey closely runs approximately 226 km from Le Monastier-sur-Gazeille to Saint-Jean-du-Gard.[13] This southeastward progression begins amid the volcanic terrains of the Auvergne region, transitions across expansive forested plateaus, and culminates in a descent toward valleys shaped by Mediterranean influences. The trail is segmented into 14 stages in the official FFRandonnée topo-guide, though traditional divisions use 12 stages, with each typically spanning 18-25 km to accommodate moderate daily progress.[8][14] Navigation relies on the conventional Grande Randonnée system of red-and-white painted blazes, supplemented by yellow markings for alternative paths or deviations; while traversable in either direction, the eastbound (southeastward) orientation is advised to align with Stevenson's historical itinerary.[8]Stage-by-Stage Breakdown
The GR 70 Chemin de Stevenson is typically divided into 12-14 stages for the full 272 km from Le Puy-en-Velay to Alès, with the core Stevenson's route from Le Monastier-sur-Gazeille to Saint-Jean-du-Gard covered in about 11-12 stages totaling approximately 226 km.[2][13] Each stage is designed for a day's hike, with distances and transitions varying by terrain, and cumulative mileage tracked for progress. Variant options, such as short detours for viewpoints or accommodations, are available along the route; for example, the GR 70A loop near Mont Lozère provides an alternative path around the mountain's summit for enhanced scenery or easier access to lodging.[1] The following is a standard 12-stage breakdown for the core route from Le Monastier-sur-Gazeille to Saint-Jean-du-Gard (adapted from common guidebooks; official topo-guide uses 14 stages for the full route).[13] Stage 1: Le Monastier-sur-Gazeille to Le Bouchet-Saint-Nicolas (24 km, cumulative 24 km)The opening stage winds through open meadows and the initial undulating volcanic hills of the Velay region, marking the trail's entry into the Massif Central's highland landscapes.[15] Stage 2: Le Bouchet-Saint-Nicolas to Pradelles (21 km, cumulative 45 km)
This segment climbs steadily to higher plateaus, transitioning from valley floors to expansive upland vistas with scattered farms and early elevation gains.[16] Stage 3: Pradelles to Cheylard-l'Évêque (22 km, cumulative 67 km)
The path descends into forested valleys before rising again, crossing wild pastures and streams amid the Margeride highlands.[16] Stage 4: Cheylard-l'Évêque to La Bastide-Puylaurent (23 km, cumulative 90 km)
Traversing small wooded valleys and mossy ground, the route follows streams through rural Gévaudan terrain.[15] Stage 5: La Bastide-Puylaurent to Chasseradès (16 km, cumulative 106 km)
A shorter stage leads across open moorlands toward the Lozère plateau, with gentle ascents preparing for higher ground.[16] Stage 6: Chasseradès to Le Pont-de-Montvert (36 km, cumulative 142 km)
Entering the Lozère department via Le Bleymard, the trail drops into river valleys, following watercourses amid granite formations and early Cévennes influences, culminating at Le Pont-de-Montvert.[16][13] Stage 7: Le Pont-de-Montvert to Cassagnas (46 km, cumulative 188 km)
The route hugs schist trails through dense areas via Florac and Bédouès-Cocurès, shifting toward more enclosed paths with occasional valley views and steeper inclines.[16][13] Stage 8: Cassagnas to Saint-Germain-de-Calberte (15 km, cumulative 203 km)
Progressing into the Cévennes, the path moves from open moors to chestnut forests, with steeper inclines and shaded woodlands dominating.[15] Stage 9: Saint-Germain-de-Calberte to Saint-Étienne-Vallée-Française (17 km, cumulative 220 km)
Forested descents and ascents characterize this segment, weaving through narrow gorges and rural hamlets.[16] Stage 10: Saint-Étienne-Vallée-Française to Saint-Jean-du-Gard (25 km, cumulative 226 km, via Les Laupies)
The concluding stages feature a prolonged descent through mixed forests and valleys along the Tarn River, arriving in the historic town of Saint-Jean-du-Gard.[16][13] (Note: Stages 6-10 combine shorter official segments for a 10-stage core approximation; hikers should consult the FFRandonnée topo-guide for the precise 14-stage full route division.)[8]