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Hillary Step

The Hillary Step is a prominent, nearly vertical rock face approximately 12 meters (39 feet) high on the southeast ridge of Mount Everest, situated at an altitude of about 8,790 meters (28,839 feet), and it represents the final major technical challenge for climbers ascending the standard Southeast Ridge route before reaching the summit.^[1]^[2] Named after New Zealand mountaineer Sir Edmund Hillary, the feature gained fame during the 1953 British expedition when Hillary and Sherpa Tenzing Norgay became the first confirmed climbers to surmount it en route to Everest's summit on May 29, 1953.^[3]^[4] Hillary described the step as a formidable barrier, requiring him to cut steps in the rock and ice while Tenzing followed, navigating the sheer face without modern fixed ropes in extreme altitude and oxygen deprivation.^[5]^[6] The ascent of the Hillary Step marked a pivotal moment in the expedition led by Colonel John Hunt, solidifying its place in mountaineering history as a symbol of human endurance on the world's highest peak.^[7] In subsequent decades, the Hillary Step has been routinely climbed by thousands of expeditions using the Southeast Ridge, typically with fixed ropes installed by Sherpas to mitigate its inherent dangers, including exposure to high winds, avalanche risk, and the "death zone" effects of thin air above 8,000 meters.^[1] The feature demands technical rock-climbing skills rated around class 4 difficulty, though supplemental oxygen and team support have made it more accessible, contributing to over 13,000 successful ascents of Everest since 1953.^[4]^[5]^[8] The Hillary Step drew international attention in 2017 following reports from climbers suggesting it may have been altered or partially destroyed by a massive avalanche triggered by the 2015 Nepal earthquake, potentially easing the route but raising concerns about geological instability on Everest.^[1] However, Nepalese mountaineers and expedition leaders, including Ang Tshering of the Nepal Mountaineering Association, disputed claims of its complete collapse, stating that the rock formation remains intact but is often obscured by deep snow, requiring climbers to navigate a snow ramp rather than exposed rock in varying conditions.^[9] During the 2025 climbing season, summit teams continued to reference passing the Hillary Step, confirming its presence as a key landmark despite ongoing debates over its exact configuration amid climate change impacts like glacial melting and seismic activity.^[2]^[10]

Location and Description

Geographical Position

The Hillary Step is situated at an elevation of 8,790 meters (28,839 feet) above sea level on the southeast ridge of Mount Everest, marking a prominent feature in the mountain's upper topography.^[11]^[12]^[13] This position places it directly between the South Summit, at 8,749 meters (28,704 feet), and the main summit, at 8,848.86 meters (29,031.69 feet), approximately 60 meters below the true peak.^[14]^[15]^[16] The southeast ridge route, originating from the South Col at around 8,000 meters, ascends progressively through key points like the Balcony at 8,400 meters before reaching this high-altitude section.^[17] On the standard South Col climbing route, the Hillary Step serves as the final major obstacle en route to the summit, immediately following the exposed Cornice Traverse—a narrow, knife-edge section extending from the South Summit.^[17]^[18] This strategic placement underscores its role in the ridge's culmination, where climbers transition from the South Summit's broad dome to the steeper final ascent toward the apex.^[19]

Physical Features

The Hillary Step is a prominent vertical rock face approximately 12 meters (40 feet) in height, located at an elevation of about 8,790 meters on Mount Everest's southeast ridge.^[20] This feature rises nearly vertically, with inclinations reaching up to 60 degrees in places and occasional overhanging sections that demand precise technical maneuvering.^[21] Its form resembles a narrow chimney, formed by a crack or crevice along one side that allows climbers to ascend by wedging and pulling against the rock walls.^[20] Geologically, the Hillary Step consists primarily of Ordovician limestone from the Qomolangma Formation, exhibiting mylonitic foliation with elongate calcite and detrital quartz grains.^[22] Ice and snow often accumulate on the exposed surfaces, particularly in the chimney, creating a mixed medium of rock, névé, and verglas that varies seasonally and adds to the climbing complexity.^[22] As part of a knife-edge ridge, the Hillary Step offers extreme visibility from below but also intense exposure to high winds exceeding 100 km/h and potential avalanches cascading from the upper slopes of the South Summit.^[17] This positioning amplifies the sense of vulnerability, with sheer drops on both sides and minimal protection from environmental hazards.^[20]

History

Discovery and First Ascent

The 1953 British Mount Everest Expedition, organized under the auspices of the Royal Geographical Society and the Alpine Club, was led by Colonel John Hunt with the goal of achieving the first confirmed ascent of the world's highest peak via the Southeast Ridge route from the South Col. The team comprised 11 British and Commonwealth climbers, along with experienced Sherpas, supported by over 350 porters and extensive logistical preparations. Edmund Hillary, a New Zealand beekeeper and mountaineer, and Tenzing Norgay, a renowned Sherpa guide, were selected for the final summit attempt due to their complementary skills and prior high-altitude experience.^[23] On May 28, 1953, Hillary and Norgay departed from Camp VIII on the South Col at an elevation of approximately 25,800 feet (7,863 meters), carrying supplemental oxygen and establishing Camp IX at 27,900 feet (8,500 meters) in worsening weather. The following day, May 29, they awoke at 4 a.m. amid sub-zero temperatures and set out toward the South Summit, navigating the steep snow slopes of the Southeast Ridge. By 9 a.m. on May 29, Hillary and Norgay attained the South Summit at 28,750 feet (8,764 meters), where they paused to assess the remaining route. After reaching the South Summit, the pair faced the prominent near-vertical rock and ice promontory now known as the Hillary Step, a 12-meter (39-foot) obstacle capping the ridge just ahead. This feature, previously unobserved in detail by prior reconnaissance, presented the last major technical challenge before the true summit.^[23]^[1] Hillary then led the first ascent of the Hillary Step, employing his Chamonix Mont Blanc ice axe—featuring a straight pick and lightweight ash handle—to meticulously cut steps into the overlying snow and ice while wearing crampons for traction on the steep face. Secured by a rope connecting them, Hillary pulled himself upward using the axe and handholds on the rock, reaching the top of the Step after several tense minutes; Tenzing followed closely, belayed by the rope. This pioneering climb overcame the feature's exposed and unstable nature, allowing the pair to proceed along the final snow ridge.^[24]^[25]^[1] The successful negotiation of the Hillary Step marked a critical milestone in the expedition, enabling Hillary and Norgay to reach the main summit of Mount Everest at 11:30 a.m. on May 29, 1953. The feature was later named the Hillary Step in recognition of Hillary's leadership during its first ascent.^[23]^[1]

Naming and Early Expeditions

The Hillary Step was named in 1953 by members of the British Mount Everest expedition in honor of Edmund Hillary, who led the successful climb of the prominent rock face during the first confirmed summit ascent alongside Tenzing Norgay.^[26] This naming followed the tradition of recognizing the climber who navigated a critical obstacle on the Southeast Ridge route, as detailed in post-expedition reports and Hillary's own account in High Adventure, where he described the feature's steep challenge without yet applying the name.^[27] Hillary and Tenzing made the first ascent of the feature on May 29 during their successful summit attempt, having been preceded to the South Summit three days earlier by Bourdillon and Evans, who retreated due to oxygen failure. Early repeat ascents occurred during the 1956 Swiss expedition to Everest and Lhotse, where climbers such as Fritz Luchsinger and Ernst Schmied navigated what they termed "Hillary's chimney" with relative ease using fixed ropes, incorporating it into the established standard route description for future teams.^[28] By 1980, the Hillary Step had been climbed by approximately 112 individuals as part of around 25 expeditions using the Southeast Ridge route, reflecting its integration into routine high-altitude mountaineering efforts following the 1970s surge in permitted climbs.^[29] Records from this period document several fatalities attributed to falls on or near the Step, underscoring its persistent hazards amid increasing traffic.^[30] The feature's role evolved in route documentation, appearing as a defining technical crux in guidebooks and expedition narratives, including those by Reinhold Messner, who emphasized its demanding nature during his pioneering 1978 oxygen-free ascent with Peter Habeler.^[31]

Climbing Aspects

Technical Challenges

The Hillary Step, situated at an elevation of 8,790 meters on Mount Everest's southeast ridge, presents severe altitude-related challenges due to extreme hypoxia in the death zone. At this height, oxygen levels are critically low, leading to impaired cognitive function, reduced physical coordination, and profound weakness that can compromise climbers' decision-making and endurance. For instance, hypoxia has been linked to disorientation and errors in judgment, such as miscalculating distances or underestimating risks during ascent or descent, exacerbating the potential for falls or exhaustion.^[32] The feature's narrow, knife-edge ridge amplifies exposure risks, with sheer drops of approximately 8,000 feet to the Western Cwm on one side and 11,000 feet to the Kangshung Glacier on the other, creating a vertigo-inducing environment where even minor slips can be fatal. High winds, often reaching speeds up to 100 km/h, further intensify these dangers by reducing visibility, increasing the risk of hypothermia, and making balance precarious on the exposed terrain. This combination of steepness and openness demands precise footwork and mental focus, often under deteriorating weather conditions. Following the 2015 earthquake, the step's configuration changed to a steeper snow and ice slope with rocky outcrops, potentially increasing avalanche hazards while reducing the vertical rock-climbing demands, as reported in expeditions as of 2025.^[17]^[33] Technically, the Hillary Step is rated as a low Class 4 climb—requiring hands for balance and navigation on mixed snow, ice, and rock—but in the hypoxic Himalayan conditions, it feels significantly more demanding due to fatigue, ice/snow fragility, and the need for fixed ropes. Common hazards include rockfall from unstable seracs above, sudden ice or snow collapses that can dislodge climbers, and severe congestion from guided groups, which causes delays of up to hours in the death zone and heightens exhaustion or altitude sickness. These bottlenecks not only prolong exposure to lethal conditions but also amplify the physical toll, contributing to several fatalities over the years.^[33]^[34]^[20]

Techniques and Equipment

The standard technique for ascending the Hillary Step involves climbing a steep snow and ice slope (altered post-2015 from a near-vertical rock face), supported by fixed ropes, while employing ice axes for front-pointing on icy sections and using occasional rock holds for stability on protruding outcrops.^[35] Climbers typically front-point with crampons to gain purchase on the mixed ice, snow, and rock terrain, using the ice axe primarily for balance and self-arrest in case of slips, as the exposure below demands precise footwork and upper-body strength.^[36] This approach requires climbers to navigate the approximately 12-meter (40-foot) prominence without artificial aids beyond the ropes, emphasizing technical skills adapted to high-altitude conditions.^[37]^[33] Rope systems on the Hillary Step are deployed by lead climbers, often in coordinated teams of two or three, who fix lines along the route during pre-summit rotations to facilitate safer passage for subsequent groups.^[11] These fixed ropes, anchored to the rock or ice using carabiners and ice screws for protection in firmer sections, allow belayed ascents where the lead climber advances while managing slack for the team.^[38] Essential equipment includes 12-point crampons for traction on the steep slope, multiple carabiners for clipping into the ropes, and ice screws hammered into ice patches for intermediate anchors, all while most climbers rely on supplemental oxygen systems to combat the extreme altitude's effects on endurance.^[25]^[39] In variations seen in guided ascents, Jumar ascenders are employed to haul climbers up the fixed ropes more efficiently, particularly for less experienced participants managing heavy loads in the death zone.^[40] Additionally, knifeblade pitons may be placed in narrow rock cracks for supplemental protection during lead pitches, providing secure points for rope attachment in the otherwise rope-reliant system.^[41] These adaptations maintain the step's demands while enhancing safety for diverse expedition teams.^[42]

Alterations and Changes

2015 Earthquake Impact

On April 25, 2015, a magnitude 7.8 earthquake struck Nepal, triggering a massive avalanche from the western slopes of Pumori that barreled down toward Mount Everest Base Camp.^[43] The seismic event and resulting ice and rockfall devastated the camp, killing 19 climbers and support staff.^[44] The earthquake's intense shaking also inflicted direct structural damage on the Hillary Step, located approximately 8,790 meters above sea level on the southeast ridge. The upper portion of this near-vertical rock and ice feature partially collapsed, dislodging large volumes of ice and rock that cascaded into the Western Cwm below, thereby reducing the Step's overall verticality from about 12 meters to a gentler, snow-covered slope.^[45]^[46] In the immediate aftermath, the destruction rendered the standard southeast ridge route impassable, leading to the cancellation of the entire 2015 climbing season on Everest and stranding numerous expeditions at lower elevations.^[47] Initial assessments of the Hillary Step's changes emerged from climbers in the following years, as no one reached the upper mountain during the 2015 disruptions. British mountaineer Tim Mosedale, upon reaching the feature in May 2017, reported that the prominent rocky outcrop had vanished, leaving a "snow slope" in its place and attributing the alteration to the 2015 seismic activity.^[48]

Post-2015 Assessments and Climbing

Following the 2015 Nepal earthquake, initial assessments of the Hillary Step during the 2016 climbing season were hampered by heavy snow cover, which obscured the feature and made it difficult to determine the extent of damage from the ground.^[49] In 2017, more definitive evaluations emerged from expedition members who reached the summit. British mountaineer Tim Mosedale, on his sixth ascent on May 16, described the Hillary Step as "no more," noting it had transformed into a snow slope rather than the previous near-vertical rock face.^[1] American climbers Adrian Ballinger and Cory Richards corroborated this, estimating the slope angle at approximately 45 degrees, with snow and ice now filling what was once a prominent rocky overhang, reducing the technical difficulty from a vertical climb to manageable scrambling.^[50] However, this alteration introduced new hazards, including increased risks of crevasses and unstable snow bridges in the modified terrain.^[51] Debates persist among climbers and officials, with some Nepalese sources maintaining that the core rock structure remains intact beneath seasonal snow, while others confirm significant rock loss based on photographs and on-site observations. By the 2025 climbing season, the route through the former Hillary Step area continued to require fixed ropes for safety, as teams fixed lines to manage the steep snow slope and prevent falls into exposed sections.^[8] Reports indicated approximately 541 permits issued across the Nepal (468) and Tibet (73) sides that year, with persistent traffic jams during peak summit pushes due to the narrowed path and high volume of climbers.^[52] ^[53] Expedition logs noted smoother ascents compared to pre-2015 conditions in terms of technical difficulty, though the area remained a bottleneck requiring careful navigation and presented ongoing risks, including at least two fatalities (Subratra Gosh and Phillip PJ Santiago II) during descent in May 2025.^[54] ^[16] Debates over the full extent of the collapse persist, fueled by comparisons of climber photographs from 2013 and 2019 showing significant rock loss, alongside limited satellite imagery indicating seismic shifts but no complete disintegration.^[55] Nepalese officials maintained in 2017 that the core structure remained intact beneath seasonal snow, while subsequent visual evidence up to 2025, including from the spring season, supports a partial collapse exacerbated by ice accumulation and climate factors, leading to ongoing discussions in mountaineering circles about the feature's permanent transformation.^[56] ^[57]

Significance

Role in Mountaineering

The Hillary Step served as the final major technical obstacle on the southeast ridge route to Mount Everest's summit, positioned at approximately 8,790 meters and requiring climbers to navigate a near-vertical rock face using fixed ropes and precise movements. Prior to its alteration in 2015, this feature was ascended by thousands of mountaineers, representing a critical test of endurance and skill in the death zone where oxygen deprivation exacerbates physical demands.^[1]^[58] Its demanding nature significantly influenced expedition planning, necessitating teams with proven technical proficiency in high-altitude rock and ice climbing, which in turn affected climber selection and permit allocations by Nepalese authorities. Expeditions often prioritized experienced alpinists capable of handling class 4 terrain under extreme conditions, ensuring safer passage through this bottleneck while minimizing risks to support staff. This requirement elevated the Hillary Step's role in defining the overall rigor of south-side ascents.^[59] The Hillary Step's characteristics also informed training regimens for Everest and beyond, simulating the demands of technical climbing at extreme altitudes and preparing mountaineers for similar challenges on other 8,000-meter peaks like K2 or Annapurna. Regimens typically incorporated simulated high-elevation rock routes to build strength, balance, and acclimatization, emphasizing the step's value as a benchmark for readiness in hypoxic environments.^[59] Statistically, the Hillary Step was a hotspot for incidents, with numerous fatalities and rescues attributed to falls, exhaustion, and overcrowding-induced delays that prolonged exposure to lethal conditions. These events prompted enhanced safety measures, including mandatory fixed ropes, occasional ladder installations, and guidelines for managing congestion to prevent deadly queues during summit pushes.^[60]^[20]

Cultural and Controversial Legacy

The Hillary Step has been prominently featured in popular media as a symbol of the perilous boundaries of human endurance on Mount Everest. In the 2015 film Everest, directed by Baltasar Kormákur and based on the 1996 disaster, the Step is depicted as a critical 40-foot vertical rock face and major obstacle during the climbers' ascent, recreated using green-screen effects on a soundstage to capture its daunting presence.^[61] Similarly, Jon Krakauer's 1997 book Into Thin Air, a firsthand account of the same tragedy, describes the Hillary Step as a severe bottleneck where climbers waited over an hour amid oxygen deprivation, underscoring the feature's role in amplifying risks during high-altitude pursuits.^[62] These portrayals have cemented the Step's image in public consciousness as an emblem of the mountain's unforgiving nature and the thin line between triumph and catastrophe.^[63] The naming of the Hillary Step has sparked ongoing debates regarding credit attribution between Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay, as well as broader recognition of Sherpa contributions to Everest ascents. Named after Hillary for his lead in scaling the near-vertical rock face during their 1953 summit—where he wedged into a crack and extended a rope to Tenzing—the designation has been critiqued for prioritizing the Western climber in a joint effort, despite Hillary's own statements that they reached the top "almost together."^[23] This reflects wider controversies over colonial-era mountaineering narratives that often overshadowed Sherpas like Tenzing, whose expertise in high-altitude navigation and load-carrying was indispensable, yet frequently underrepresented in historical accounts.^[6] Efforts to honor both, such as Nepal's 2013 naming of peaks after Hillary and Tenzing, highlight persistent discussions on equitable acknowledgment of indigenous and international roles in Everest's conquest.^[64] Post-2015 earthquake assessments have fueled disputes among climbers about the Step's continued existence and integrity, with conflicting reports persisting into 2025. The 7.8-magnitude quake significantly altered the southeast ridge, leading some, including early post-disaster analyses, to claim the prominent 40-foot overhang had collapsed entirely, potentially easing the route's technical demands. However, 2025 summit reports describe encountering a recognizable, albeit modified, feature—such as a "big rock" that climbers navigated without the original sheer drop—prompting arguments over whether the "true" Hillary Step endures or has been irrevocably transformed into a less formidable slope.^[65] Veteran guides and climbers continue to debate south-side specifics amid ongoing seismic and environmental changes. As a choke point on the standard southeast ridge route, the Hillary Step embodies Everest's commercialization and the perils of overcrowding, particularly evident in 2025 discussions amid record permit issuances. With over 1,000 climbers and Sherpas converging during narrow summit windows, the feature often creates deadly delays in the "death zone," exacerbating hypoxia and exposure risks as queues form for fixed ropes.^[66] This bottleneck has intensified calls for reform, including Nepal's 2025 regulations mandating prior experience on a 7,000-meter peak, framing the Step as a flashpoint for balancing adventure tourism's economic benefits against environmental degradation and human toll.^[67] In broader cultural discourse, it symbolizes how mass expeditions have shifted Everest from an elite challenge to a congested enterprise, prompting ethical debates on sustainability.^[68]

References

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Everest's historic Hillary Step still intact: Officials - CNN
May 22, 2017 · The Hillary Step, which veteran British climber Tim Mosedale says has collapsed. Tim Mosedal/Everest Expedition ...Missing: assessment | Show results with:assessment<|control11|><|separator|>
[54]
https://www.breezeadventure.com/blog/hilary-step-everest-why-is-the-hillary-step-so-dangerous
[55]
It's Almost Certain That Mt Everest Just Got 'Easier' to Climb After the ...
Jun 14, 2017 · The Hillary Step, an outcrop made mostly of four boulders, was a ... Since then, thousands of climbers have negotiated it - in single file.
[56]
Training for Everest - Alan Arnette
The Hillary Step is class 4 at 28,740'. Class 5: True technical climbing normally using ropes, carabineers, anchors (protection), harness, etc. Climbers ...Missing: position | Show results with:position
[57]
In Wake of Everest Deaths, Another "Traffic Jam" Possible
Just days after four people died on Everest during a crowded climb, a similar "traffic jam" scenario could play out this weekend.Missing: congestion | Show results with:congestion
[58]
'Everest' Cinematographer Recalls "Very Difficult Shoot"
Sep 18, 2015 · Everest's Hillary Step, camp 4, icefall and the summit were built on the 007 stage at London's Pinewood Studios with greenscreen for CG ...
[59]
Into Thin Air Chapter 13 Summary & Analysis - SparkNotes
As they approach the Hillary Step, the infamous vertical ridge, Krakauer notices that Boukreev is not carrying any additional oxygen or a backpack. It is the ...
[60]
Adrian Ballinger on Leaving Everest, the Earthquake, and the ...
Apr 29, 2015 · The veteran climber explains the decision to close Everest's north side to climbers, and how teams are working through the aftermath of the earthquake.Missing: disputes existence
[61]
Mount Everest: Hillary and Tenzing to have peaks named after them
Sep 6, 2013 · Nepal is set to name two Himalayan peaks after Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay, the men who first climbed Mount Everest 60 years ago.
[62]
Everest 2025: Climbing Rules, Permit Costs & Eco Updates
Jul 6, 2025 · Over 1,000 climbers and Sherpas will crowd the route, raising fears of bottlenecks at the Hillary Step. Speed records: UltramarathonerTyler ...
[63]
Climbing Mount Everest may get even harder | National Geographic
May 30, 2025 · In 2023, 18 climbers died on Everest, and in 2024 eight climbers died. Some of the most common causes of death on the mountain are acute ...Missing: Hillary | Show results with:Hillary
[64]
Trash and Overcrowding at the Top of the World
Apr 23, 2025 · Today, Everest is so overcrowded and full of trash that it has been called the “world's highest garbage dump.”