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MycoWorks

MycoWorks is an American biotechnology company specializing in the development and production of sustainable biomaterials using mycelium, the root structure of mushrooms, through its proprietary Fine Mycelium™ technology.^[1] Founded in 2013 by artists Philip Ross, Sophia Wang, and Eddie Pavlu in San Francisco, California, the company aims to create a platform for high-quality, environmentally friendly materials that serve as alternatives to traditional plastics, textiles, and animal-derived products like leather.^[2] Ross, who began experimenting with mycelium for artistic sculptures in the 1990s and coined the term "mycotecture" in 2008, partnered with Wang and Pavlu to shift focus toward scalable material applications.^[2] In 2016, MycoWorks pivoted to flexible mycelium materials for the fashion industry, securing seed funding from IndieBio and showcasing prototypes at the Venice Biennale.^[2] The addition of Matt Scullin as CEO in 2017 marked a transition to commercial scaling, leading to the opening of a 30,000-square-foot pilot plant in Emeryville, California, in 2019, where the company patented its Fine Mycelium process.^[2] MycoWorks' flagship product, Reishi™, is a premium, leather-like material grown in controlled environments, featuring low polymer content (less than 1%) and performance comparable to fine animal leathers while offering a significantly reduced carbon footprint.^[3]^[4] Launched publicly at New York Fashion Week in 2020, Reishi™ is available in various finishes and colors, such as tumbled grain and matte, and has been adopted for luxury goods.^[5]^[6] The company has formed key partnerships with global luxury brands, including a landmark collaboration with Hermès announced in 2021, and holds contracts with multiple major fashion houses.^[7] MycoWorks has raised over $314 million in funding as of 2025, including a $45 million Series B round in 2020 for production expansion and a $125 million Series C in 2022 led by Prime Movers Lab to support mass manufacturing.^[8]^[9]^[10] In 2023, it opened a production facility in Union, South Carolina, which closed in 2025 following a strategic shift to sourcing mycelium externally and focusing on processing; by September 2025, the company achieved a milestone with an advanced iteration of Fine Mycelium technology, enhancing material performance and enabling direct online sales.^[11]^[12]^[13]

History

Founding and Early Development

MycoWorks was founded in 2013 in San Francisco by artists Philip Ross and Sophia Wang, along with co-founder Eddie Pavlu. Ross, a chef and naturalist with decades of experience in mycelium-based art, had been cultivating mycelium for sculptures and installations since the 1990s, drawing inspiration from the adaptive properties and aesthetic qualities of reishi mushrooms. Wang, an artist and writer focused on innovative materials, collaborated with Ross to explore mycelium's potential beyond traditional art forms. Pavlu, bringing expertise in strategy and operations from his engineering background, helped establish the company's early management structure. The trio launched MycoWorks from Ross's art studio, initially emphasizing the creation of rigid mycelium composites for artistic and design applications.^[2]^[14]^[15] In its early years, MycoWorks built on Ross's pioneering "mycotecture" practice, which he coined in 2008 to describe mycelium-grown structures that mimicked natural building processes. The company's initial focus was on developing mycelium-based art installations, such as those showcased at the 2016 Venice Biennale of Architecture, where rigid panels demonstrated the material's structural versatility and environmental responsiveness. These experiments transitioned into prototypes for sustainable materials, highlighting mycelium's ability to grow into custom forms without synthetic binders, thus laying the groundwork for broader applications in design and architecture. This artistic foundation emphasized conceptual exploration over commercial production, fostering innovations in material cultivation techniques.^[2]^[14] A pivotal shift occurred in 2016, when MycoWorks redirected its research from rigid composites to flexible, leather-like mycelium materials to enhance commercial viability and address demands in fashion and consumer goods. Supported by seed funding from IndieBio, the team refined cultivation methods to produce pliable sheets with leather-equivalent properties, marking the inception of what would become the Fine Mycelium™ process. In 2017, Matthew Scullin joined as CEO, bringing materials science expertise from prior roles in energy and biotechnology to professionalize operations, streamline R&D, and prepare for scalable production. Under Scullin's leadership, the company formalized its biotechnology approach, bridging the gap between artistic origins and industrial application.^[2]

Key Milestones and Expansion

In 2019, MycoWorks secured its Series A funding round, which enabled the company to break ground on a 30,000 square foot pilot plant in Emeryville, California, marking a significant step toward scaling production of its mycelium-based materials.^[2]^[16] In 2021, the company raised $45 million in a Series B funding round to support production expansion.^[8] The company launched its flagship product, Reishi—a leather alternative grown from mycelium—at New York Fashion Week in February 2020, introducing the material to the luxury fashion industry through showroom presentations and initial brand collaborations.^[2]^[17] By 2022, MycoWorks raised $125 million in a Series C funding round led by Prime Movers Lab, with participation from investors including SK Networks and Mirabaud Lifestyle Impact & Innovation, aimed at funding the construction of its first full-scale production facility to accelerate mass production.^[18]^[7] In 2023, MycoWorks celebrated its tenth anniversary by unveiling new variants of Reishi, including Reishi Doux for a softer texture, Reishi Natural for an untreated finish, and Reishi Pebble for a textured surface, expanding the material's applications in fashion and design. That year, the company also opened its 136,000 square foot commercial-scale production facility in Union, South Carolina.^[19]^[20]^[21] The year 2025 brought several strategic developments for MycoWorks. In February, the company launched a direct-to-consumer e-commerce platform, allowing customers to purchase Reishi samples and sheets online for the first time.^[22]^[23] In July, it explored municipal bond financing as a novel funding mechanism to support ongoing operations and growth in the vegan leather market.^[10] By September, MycoWorks achieved a key technological milestone with advancements in growing pure mycelium sheets at high strength using its patented Rei-Tanning process.^[24] However, in October, the company announced the closure of its 136,000 square foot factory in Union, South Carolina—opened in 2023—to refocus resources on mycelium processing and tanning rather than in-house growth, citing the availability of cheaper external sources.^[25]^[12] Over this period, MycoWorks relocated its headquarters to Emeryville, California, to align with its expanding pilot and production operations in the region.^[2] By 2025, the company had raised more than $314 million in total equity funding, supporting its transition from research to commercial-scale biomaterials innovation.^[10]

Technology

Fine Mycelium™ Process

The Fine Mycelium™ process is a proprietary biotechnology developed by MycoWorks that engineers mycelium—the root-like network of fungi, specifically from the species Ganoderma lucidum—into dense, sheet-form materials using agricultural waste substrates such as recycled sawdust and bran. This patented method harnesses the natural growth of mycelium in a controlled environment to create interlocking cellular structures without the need for compression, binders, or plastics, resulting in a fully natural biomaterial.^[26]^[27]^[4] The process begins with inoculation, where the substrate—composed of recycled sawdust, bran, water, and mycelium spawn—is prepared and seeded in tray-based growth beds under precisely controlled conditions, including temperature, humidity, and gas levels to promote vegetative growth without fruiting bodies. The inoculated substrate then undergoes fermentation in these bioreactors, allowing the mycelium to colonize and form a dense, interwoven network of hyphae over several days, creating a uniform mat that binds the substrate particles into a cohesive structure. Harvesting follows once the mycelium reaches peak density, with the sheet easily separated from the growth bed via a perforation layer for clean removal, and the spent substrate repurposed as compost; no additional pressing or chemical treatments are required at this stage to maintain the material's inherent strength.^[27]^[28]^[29] The resulting Fine Mycelium™ sheets exhibit properties that closely mimic those of animal leather, including high tensile strength, flexibility, and breathability, while offering superior environmental benefits such as full compostability and minimal water usage—far lower than the thousands of liters required per square meter for traditional leather production. These sheets demonstrate enhanced durability through their densely entwined three-dimensional structure, with less than 1% polymer content, enabling applications like the Reishi™ material for fashion and interiors.^[4]^[27]^[30] This technique originated from the manual mycelium cultivation experiments of MycoWorks co-founders Phil Ross and Sophia Wang, artists who pioneered fungal material growth in art installations during the early 2000s before scaling it into an industrial biotechnology platform in 2013.^[31]^[2]

Recent Technological Advancements

In 2023 and 2024, MycoWorks advanced its Fine Mycelium™ process by introducing variant-specific growth parameters tailored to create distinct textures, such as the pebbled surface of Reishi™ Pebble and the smoother, refined finish of Reishi™ Doux. These innovations, developed through precise control of mycelium cultivation conditions, improved material durability while maintaining aesthetic versatility suitable for fashion and interior applications.^[32]^[33] In February 2025, MycoWorks unveiled Rei-Tanning™, a proprietary tanning and finishing technology that significantly enhances the performance of its flagship Reishi™ material. This advancement achieves higher tear resistance that exceeds benchmarks for luxury leathers, as validated by third-party testing, alongside improvements in durability, softness, and water resistance, building on the core Fine Mycelium™ methodology of engineering mycelium during growth.^[34] A major milestone occurred in September 2025, when MycoWorks announced a patented iteration of its technology permitting the growth of pure mycelium without reliance on substrates, resulting in high-strength sheets suitable for expanded applications. This pure mycelium approach, applied to Reishi™, delivers enhanced structural integrity while further minimizing environmental inputs during production.^[24] In October 2025, MycoWorks restructured its operations, ceasing in-house mycelium cultivation at its South Carolina facility and shifting focus to processing and finishing sourced mycelium materials using its proprietary technologies, including Rei-Tanning™, to address market challenges and improve efficiency.^[35] As of November 2025, the company's R&D continues to support scalable production of advanced biomaterials through these processing innovations.

Products

Reishi™ Material

Reishi™ is MycoWorks' flagship product, launched in 2020 as the first commercially available material produced using the company's Fine Mycelium™ technology, serving as a premium, animal-free alternative to traditional leather.^[36]^[37] This mycelium-based biomaterial is grown from fungal networks in a controlled environment, resulting in sheets that mimic the texture, strength, and durability of high-end leathers while offering enhanced sustainability.^[38] Composed primarily of mycelium with less than 1% polymer content, Reishi™ undergoes a proprietary chrome-free tanning process that integrates seamlessly with established leather finishing techniques used by heritage tanneries.^[4]^[3] It is available in full sheets measuring approximately 60 cm by 90 cm, suitable for crafting luxury items such as handbags, upholstery, and accessories, where it meets performance standards for suppleness and longevity comparable to animal-derived leathers.^[39] Environmentally, Reishi™ demonstrates significant advantages over bovine leather, including a carbon footprint as low as 2.76 kg CO₂-eq per m²—equivalent to just 8% of traditional leather's emissions—and reductions in blue water consumption exceeding 95%.^[4]^[40] The material's near-zero plastic composition enables full biodegradability at the end of its lifecycle, distinguishing it from synthetic leather alternatives and supporting circular economy principles in fashion and design.^[4]^[41]

Applications and Variants

MycoWorks offers several variants of its Reishi™ material, each tailored to specific performance needs and aesthetic preferences while maintaining the core properties of the Fine Mycelium™ base. Reishi™ Doux features a soft, supple texture ideal for apparel and luxury goods requiring flexibility and a natural drape. Reishi™ Natural is an undyed variant designed for custom finishing, allowing designers to apply dyes or treatments post-production to achieve bespoke colors and effects. Reishi™ Pebble provides a textured, pebble-grain surface that enhances durability, making it suitable for high-wear items like bags and accessories. In 2025, MycoWorks introduced additional options such as Reishi™ Pebble Aura, which offers a smooth, round drape with a subtle pebble texture and soft hand-feel, and Reishi™ Pebble Black, a pre-dyed black version for immediate use in production. In fashion, Reishi™ has been applied through high-profile collaborations, notably with Hermès, which utilized a customized variant of its Fine Mycelium material for the Victoria bag unveiled in 2021, marking one of the material's first luxury integrations.^[42]^[43] This partnership highlighted Reishi™'s compatibility with premium accessory design, showcasing its strength and aesthetic versatility comparable to traditional leathers. Other fashion applications include limited-edition hats by designer Nick Fouquet, incorporating Reishi™ in collections like the 2022 Reishi™ Boletus and Coprinus styles. Beyond fashion, MycoWorks expanded Reishi™ into interiors and automotive sectors during 2024-2025, targeting upholstery and furniture applications. In automotive use, Reishi™ debuted on the inner door panels of a General Motors concept electric vehicle in 2024, demonstrating its potential for durable, sustainable interior components.^[44]^[45] For furniture, the material covered its first commercial pieces in a Ligne Roset couch launched in 2025, emphasizing tactile comfort and longevity. This expansion culminated in the 2025 Reishi™ in the Nordic Light collection, co-created with five Danish design studios and debuted at Copenhagen's 3 Days of Design, featuring innovative furniture objects that blend Scandinavian craftsmanship with mycelium-based sustainability. To broaden accessibility, MycoWorks launched a direct-to-consumer online store in February 2025, offering customizable Reishi™ pieces such as sample kits and full sheets in variants like Pebble Aura and Black. This e-commerce platform enables consumers and small designers to purchase and personalize the material directly, fostering innovation in personal and boutique applications.

Operations and Impact

Facilities and Production

MycoWorks' headquarters is located in a 30,000-square-foot facility in Emeryville, California, which opened in 2019 and functions as the primary hub for research and development as well as pilot-scale production.^[2] This site houses equipment for mycelium cultivation and material processing, enabling the company to test and refine its Fine Mycelium™ technology at smaller volumes before broader application.^[46] In efforts to scale operations, MycoWorks announced plans in 2022 to construct a commercial-scale factory in Union, South Carolina, following a $125 million Series C funding round aimed at achieving mass production.^[18] The 136,000-square-foot Union facility began operations in September 2023, but in October 2025, the company decided to close this site amid industry shifts, pivoting from in-house mycelium cultivation to outsourcing growth from third-party sources while emphasizing internal design and processing capabilities. The closure resulted in layoffs affecting dozens of employees at the facility, with the company focusing on partnerships for mycelium supply to maintain scaling.^[25]^[47]^[48] As of late 2025, MycoWorks' production capacity centers on the Emeryville facility, which outputs approximately 80,000 square feet of material annually.^[49] The operational model now prioritizes vertical integration for mycelium growth where feasible but relies on external partnerships, such as global tanneries, for finishing and scaling output beyond pilot levels.^[50] The company employs approximately 100 people as of November 2025, following significant layoffs earlier in the year including those tied to the facility closure, with a multidisciplinary workforce that includes artists, biologists, and engineers to support its blend of creative and scientific innovation.^[51]^[52]^[53]^[54]

Sustainability and Partnerships

MycoWorks' Fine Mycelium™ materials, including Reishi™, serve as a mycelium-based alternative to animal-derived leather, eliminating the need for livestock sourcing and thereby reducing contributions to deforestation and biodiversity loss associated with traditional tanning industries.^[41] The production process leverages mycelium grown on agricultural waste substrates, which diverts organic byproducts from landfills and minimizes pollution through a low-energy, passive fermentation method that avoids chemical-intensive steps common in conventional leather manufacturing.^[55] A peer-reviewed cradle-to-gate life cycle assessment of Reishi™ demonstrates its environmental benefits, revealing a carbon footprint of 2.76 kg CO₂-eq per m²—equivalent to just 8% of bovine leather's emissions—while producing near-zero plastic waste and enabling full biodegradability at end-of-life.^[4] The company's sustainability efforts extend to broader goals of advancing circular economy principles in materials production. By utilizing upcycled agricultural waste as a primary feedstock, MycoWorks supports waste reduction in supply chains, with its facilities designated as solid waste recycling operations by state authorities.^[56] Reishi™ materials are fully compostable, breaking down into nutrient-rich soil without microplastic release, which facilitates closed-loop systems in fashion and design sectors where products can be returned to the earth rather than discarded in landfills.^[57] Key partnerships underscore MycoWorks' role in scaling sustainable biomaterials. The company announced a collaboration with luxury brand Hermès in 2021 and received investment from the brand in 2022, incorporating Reishi™ into high-end accessories like travel bags, marking a milestone in mainstream adoption of mycelium-based leather alternatives.^[43]^[58] Musician John Legend provided backing through a 2020 Series B funding round, highlighting celebrity support for innovative eco-materials.^[59] In 2025, MycoWorks partnered with five Danish design studios for the "Reishi™ in the Nordic Light" collection, showcased at 3daysofdesign in Copenhagen, which explored mycelium applications in timeless, tactile interiors and advocated for biomaterials in Scandinavian craft traditions.^[60] Through these initiatives, MycoWorks contributes to industry-wide advocacy for biomaterials in fashion, positioning mycelium as a viable path to reduce the sector's environmental footprint and promote regenerative practices.^[61] The company's collaborations emphasize education on circularity, demonstrating how compostable, low-impact materials can transform linear production models into sustainable ecosystems.^[62]

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