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Rolex GMT Master II

The Rolex GMT-Master II is a tool watch introduced in , renowned for its ability to simultaneously display two time zones via a distinctive 24-hour hand and a rotatable with 24-hour graduations, enabling travelers to track local and reference times with precision. Designed as an evolution of the original GMT-Master, it features an independent local hour hand that can be adjusted in one-hour increments without affecting the minute or 24-hour hands, making it particularly useful for aviators and global . Housed in a robust 40 mm case waterproof to 100 meters, the watch employs Rolex's proprietary Oystersteel or precious metals, paired with options like the or bracelet for enhanced comfort and durability. Developed in collaboration with World Airways in the mid-20th century, the GMT-Master line originated in 1955 as a for pilots, with the GMT-Master II marking a significant upgrade through its new self-winding movement and enhanced functionality. The model's Calibre 3285 movement, introduced in later iterations, offers a 70-hour power reserve, ±2 seconds per day precision as a Superlative , and patented technologies like the Parachrom hairspring for resistance to shocks and magnetic fields. Iconic for its Cerachrom —crafted from scratchproof, fade-resistant ceramic in two-tone configurations such as black and blue or and black—the GMT-Master II has become a symbol of cosmopolitan reliability, with variants including left-handed models and those in Rolesor (steel and gold) or solid gold cases. Recent innovations, like the 2025 introduction of a Cerachrom dial, continue to blend tradition with modern materials for legibility and style. The GMT-Master II's enduring appeal lies in its blend of technical prowess and aesthetic versatility, serving as an essential companion for those navigating international time differences while upholding Rolex's standards of precision and innovation.

Overview

Introduction

The Rolex GMT-Master II is a self-winding launched in 1982 as an evolution of the original GMT-Master, enhancing functionality for global travelers. It builds on the aviation heritage of its predecessor, originally developed in collaboration with airlines. At its core, the GMT-Master II enables the simultaneous display of two time zones via a triangle-tipped 24-hour hand and a bidirectional rotatable graduated over 24 hours, allowing users to track and a reference with ease. The watch features a 40 mm case, providing water resistance to 100 meters (330 feet), making it suitable for professional and everyday use. Primarily crafted from Oystersteel, a corrosion-resistant exclusive to , the GMT-Master II is also offered in variants incorporating precious metals such as 18 kt or Everose gold for added luxury. Renowned as a symbol of reliability among aviators and frequent travelers, it has remained in continuous production since its introduction, embodying enduring precision and robustness.

Purpose and Innovation

The Rolex GMT-Master II was developed as an evolution of the original GMT-Master, specifically designed to assist pilots and international travelers in tracking multiple time zones efficiently. Originally conceived in collaboration with Pan American World Airways in the for the inaugural model, the GMT-Master II retained this aviation heritage, enabling wearers to monitor (GMT) alongside local time during transatlantic and global flights. This functionality proved essential for flight crews navigating varying time zones, supporting precise scheduling and coordination across continents. A pivotal innovation introduced with the GMT-Master II in 1983 was the Caliber 3085 movement, featuring an independent quick-set hour hand. This allowed the local hour hand to jump in one-hour increments without disturbing the 24-hour GMT hand or the minute hand, simplifying adjustments upon crossing time zones—unlike the original GMT-Master, where advancing the hour hand also moved the GMT reference. Powered by this advancement, the watch could effectively display up to three time zones simultaneously: the primary local time, a fixed reference time via the GMT hand, and a third via the rotatable bezel. This enhancement marked a significant leap in usability for professionals like pilots, who could recalibrate local time rapidly for flight planning, navigation, and mitigating jet lag effects. Beyond its practical role in , the GMT-Master II solidified Rolex's preeminence in GMT complication watches, setting a for dual- and triple-timezone functionality in horology. Its influenced the broader of traveler's watches, inspiring competitors to incorporate similar hour-setting mechanisms and durable, bezel-based timezone indicators. By evolving from the original's single adjustable reference to seamless multi-zone tracking, the GMT-Master II not only improved everyday utility for globetrotters but also underscored Rolex's commitment to innovative, reliable tool watches for demanding environments.

Design and Features

Case and Bracelet

The Rolex GMT-Master II features the iconic case, a monobloc made from Oystersteel, Rolex's proprietary 904L renowned for its exceptional resistance and lustre even after extensive wear. This material, developed specifically for the brand, belongs to the elite family of typically used in advanced and chemical industries, ensuring durability in diverse environments. The case incorporates a screw-down case back and a Triplock winding crown—identified by its triple waterproofness system symbol—that together provide robust protection against water ingress, achieving a guaranteed water resistance of (330 feet). With a of 40 and a thickness of 12.0 , the case offers a proportional fit suited to contemporary sizes while maintaining the watch's robust profile. For added luxury, select models are available in precious metals such as 18 ct or Everose gold—an exclusive rose gold —imparting greater weight and a refined presence without compromising the core . These variations enhance the watch's versatility, from professional tool use to formal occasions, with the precious metal cases contributing to an overall heft that underscores their premium craftsmanship. The GMT-Master II pairs its case with one of two signature bracelet options, both designed for seamless integration and long-term comfort. The Oyster bracelet, composed of solid three-link sections in matching Oystersteel or , employs the patented Glidelock clasp extension system, which allows tool-free adjustments in 2 mm increments up to 20 mm for optimal fit over clothing or during activity. Alternatively, the Jubilee bracelet features a distinctive five-link configuration for a more elegant drape, equipped with the Easylink comfort extension that provides a quick 5 mm lengthening without removing the watch, ideal for fluctuating wrist conditions throughout the day. Surfaces on both the case and combine polished finishes on select edges with satin-brushed treatments on broader areas, creating visual depth through contrasting while promoting in practical use. This finishing technique not only elevates aesthetics but also highlights the precision machining inherent to Rolex's manufacturing process. Over the model's evolution, the case diameter standardized at 40 mm—building on the original GMT-Master's progression from 38 mm—to better align with modern proportions and enhanced . The case securely integrates with the calibre, supporting the GMT-Master II's dual-time functionality through its unyielding structure.

Bezel and Lume

The bidirectional rotatable of the Rolex GMT-Master II is equipped with a 24-hour graduated scale, enabling wearers to reference a second alongside the primary time displayed by the hour and minute hands. This design allows for quick adjustments by rotating the in either direction, with early aluminum versions featuring 120 clicks per full rotation for precise 3-degree increments, while modern models use 24 clicks aligned to the hour markers. The 's knurled edge, with grip grooves covering approximately half its circumference, facilitates secure manipulation even with gloves. Introduced in 2007, the Cerachrom bezel insert represents a key advancement, crafted from Rolex's patented high-technology that is virtually scratchproof, corrosion-resistant, and impervious to fading from exposure. Unlike earlier aluminum inserts, which were susceptible to color degradation over time due to environmental factors, the Cerachrom material ensures permanent legibility and durability. Available in monochrome black or two-tone combinations such as red and blue or blue and black, the insert's molded numerals and graduations are coated with using a (PVD) process for enhanced contrast and resistance to wear. The incorporates Chromalight on its triangular zero marker at the 24 o'clock position, a material that appears brilliant white in daylight and emits a sustained glow in low-light conditions for up to eight hours. This feature, derived from Rolex's development for professional tool watches, improves readability during extended flights or navigation in dim environments, originally tailored for pilots tracking multiple time zones.

Dial and Hands

The dial of the Rolex GMT-Master II is designed for exceptional , featuring a clean layout with large hour markers in simple geometric shapes—triangles, circles, and rectangles—that emphasize functionality for professional use. The standard dial is black lacquered, providing a finish that minimizes glare and integrates seamlessly with the minute track on the for precise time reading. In 2025, Rolex introduced its first dial in green Cerachrom on the 18 white gold model (ref. 126729VTNR), which features a laser-etched sunray finish that creates dynamic light play while matching the green portion of the two-tone for cohesive . Hour markers are applied in 18 kt and filled with Chromalight, a luminescent material that emits a long-lasting blue glow in low light conditions, ensuring readability during or in dim environments. The 12 o'clock position features a distinctive triangular marker, aligning with the bezel's reference triangle for intuitive dual-time orientation. These markers, along with the overall dial design, avoid clutter to prioritize quick, error-free time assessment. The hands contribute to the watch's precise and distinctive interface, with broad Mercedes-style hour and minute hands—characterized by the iconic three-pointed star on the hour hand—also filled with Chromalight for visibility. A central seconds hand tracks , while the dedicated 24-hour GMT hand, arrow-tipped and often color-matched to the bezel (such as or ), completes a full rotation every 24 hours to indicate a reference . At 3 o'clock, the date window is magnified 2.5 times by the Cyclops lens integrated into the sapphire crystal, which benefits from a double to reduce glare and enhance clarity.

Movement

The Rolex GMT-Master II is powered by the in-house 3285, a self-winding with GMT functionality that exemplifies the brand's advancements in horology. This features 31 jewels and operates at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour (vph), ensuring smooth seconds-hand sweep and reliable timekeeping. Certified as a Superlative by after casing, it achieves precision of -2/+2 seconds per day, surpassing the standard of -4/+6 seconds per day. Central to the GMT-Master II's dual-time capability is the independent hour hand, which can jump in one-hour increments for quick time zone adjustments via the crown, while the minute and 24-hour hands continue uninterrupted. The date display includes a quick-set mechanism, also operated through the crown, allowing rapid advancement or retrogression without affecting other functions. The movement's Parachrom hairspring, made of a niobium-zirconium-oxygen alloy, provides resistance to strong magnetic fields and temperature variations, enhancing reliability in diverse conditions. Complementing this are Paraflex shock absorbers, which protect the oscillator from impacts. The Caliber 3285 offers a power reserve of approximately 70 hours when fully wound, enabled by Rolex's optimized barrel architecture and the bidirectional Perpetual rotor. A key innovation is the , a Rolex-patented that delivers about 15% greater compared to traditional escapements, contributing to the extended reserve and overall autonomy. This escapement's lightweight components, including a nickel-phosphorus escape wheel resistant to magnetism, work in tandem with the Paraflex system to maintain performance under stress. The evolution of the GMT-Master II's movements began with the Caliber 3085 in 1983, which introduced the independent hour hand for the model's debut. In 2005, the Caliber 3186 succeeded it, incorporating the Parachrom hairspring for improved antimagnetic properties and a 48-hour power reserve. The current Caliber 3285, launched in 2018, builds on these foundations with the 70-hour reserve, Chronergy escapement, and Paraflex absorbers, marking a significant leap in efficiency and durability.

History

Origins

The Rolex GMT-Master originated from a collaboration between and Pan American World Airways (Pan Am) in 1954, aimed at creating a reliable tool watch for transatlantic pilots who needed to track (GMT) alongside local time during long-haul flights. This partnership addressed the growing demands of international aviation in the post-World War II era, when commercial was expanding rapidly and pilots required a practical means to manage multiple time zones without relying solely on radio communications or charts. The resulting design emphasized durability, legibility, and functionality, establishing the GMT-Master as a of 's watch lineup. The first GMT-Master, reference 6542, was introduced in 1955 with a 38 mm case, a bakelite rotating marked with a 24-hour scale, and the automatic Caliber 1036 featuring an additional GMT hand. Produced until 1959, this model lacked crown guards—a feature added later for enhanced protection—and was powered by a base adapted from Rolex's existing calibers to include the independent 24-hour hand. The 's innovative allowed quick adjustments for second time zones, making it indispensable for crews navigating global routes. Early production faced challenges with the material, which proved brittle and susceptible to cracking under regular use, prompting to transition to more durable anodized aluminum inserts by 1959. The iconic "Pepsi" variant, with its red-and-blue colors, drew direct inspiration from Pan Am's corporate livery, symbolizing the airline's pioneering role in jet-age travel and embedding the watch in aviation culture. As a precursor to subsequent dual-time complications, the original GMT-Master laid the groundwork for traveler's watches by capitalizing on the postwar boom in international connectivity, influencing generations of tool watches designed for global professionals.

Introduction of GMT-Master II

The Rolex GMT-Master II was introduced in 1982 as an evolution of the original GMT-Master, designed to address limitations in time zone adjustments for international travelers. The debut model, reference 16760, featured a thicker 40 mm Oystersteel case measuring 12.8 mm in height—earning it the nicknames "Fat Lady" and due to its more robust profile compared to the slimmer predecessor. This design accommodated the new Caliber 3085 automatic movement, which powered the watch's core functionality. A key innovation was the quick-set mechanism for the hour hand, allowing independent adjustment of without affecting the 24-hour GMT hand or minutes—resolving the original model's linkage that required rotating the entire and hands. This made the GMT-Master II the first with a jumping local hour hand, enhancing practicality for frequent flyers navigating multiple time zones. The watch retained the rotating for reference time, available in aluminum with either a solid black insert or the two-tone "" variant in black and red. Market reception positioned the GMT-Master II as a sophisticated tool watch for airline professionals and global business travelers, building on the original's heritage. Produced until 1988, the reference 16760 marked a significant milestone in Rolex's pilot watch lineup by prioritizing user-friendly dual-time functionality.

Major Updates

In 2005, Rolex refreshed the GMT-Master II lineup to mark the 50th anniversary of the GMT-Master series, introducing the Caliber 3186 movement equipped with the innovative Parachrom hairspring, a niobium-zirconium-oxygen designed to resist , temperature variations, and shocks up to six times more effectively than traditional hairsprings. This update also featured a redesigned case with broader lugs and a larger Triplock screw-down crown for superior water up to 100 meters. The refresh debuted on reference 116718LN, a yellow gold model with the first-ever Cerachrom bezel insert in black , offering enhanced , fade, and compared to aluminum predecessors. Building on this foundation, Rolex extended the innovations to a steel variant in 2007 with reference 116710LN, incorporating the all-black Cerachrom bezel for improved durability and legibility while maintaining the Parachrom hairspring and Triplock crown from the prior year. The ceramic material, molded under extreme pressure and heat then engraved and plated with , ensured long-term color stability without fading from UV exposure. This model became a for the series, emphasizing Rolex's shift toward high-tech materials in watches. Throughout the 2010s, Rolex further advanced the movement with the Caliber 3186 serving as the core powerplant until 2018, when the Caliber 3285 superseded it across updated references, delivering a 70-hour power reserve, an increase from the previous 48 hours—thanks to the patented , which boosts energy efficiency by 15% through its optimized geometry and magnetic-resistant nickel-phosphorus components. Additional refinements included Paraflex shock absorbers for better impact protection. These enhancements solidified the GMT-Master II's reliability for extended wear without winding. Bracelet options evolved in tandem with these updates, reflecting user preferences for comfort and versatility. In 2018, the "Pepsi" variant (reference 126710BLRO) returned with a featuring the clasp and Easylink 5 mm comfort extension system for on-the-fly adjustments. By 2021, the "Batman" blue-and-black model (reference 126710BLNR) transitioned to the more robust , enhancing its sporty appeal while retaining the Glidelock system for precise sizing. A notable design innovation arrived in 2022 with the "Destro" left-handed reference 126720VTNR, featuring the crown positioned at the 9 o'clock side to accommodate left-wrist wearers—a first for Rolex's professional collection—alongside a reversed GMT hand orientation and a black-and-green Cerachrom . This model maintained the 3285 and 40 mm case, broadening accessibility without compromising functionality. In 2025, introduced its first-ever Cerachrom ceramic dial on the GMT-Master II, featured on an 18 ct left-handed model ( 126729VTNR) with a dial matched to a -and-black insert. This provides superior scratch resistance, fade-proof color, and enhanced , continuing 's tradition of advancing materials in professional watches.

Models and Variants

Early Models (1980s-2000s)

The early models of the Rolex GMT-Master II, introduced in the 1980s, marked a significant evolution in the line's design and functionality, focusing on construction with aluminum for enhanced legibility across time zones. The inaugural , 16760, launched in 1983 and produced until 1988, earned the nickname "Fat Lady" for its thicker 40 mm case measuring 12 mm in height, which accommodated the new Caliber 3085 movement allowing independent adjustment of the hour hand without affecting the GMT function. This model featured a black dial exclusively, a bi-directional aluminum in red-and-black "" configuration, and for low-light visibility, all housed in a case paired with a standard Oyster bracelet. No variants were offered, emphasizing durability for professional use. The reference 16710, produced from 1989 to 2007, became the most enduring early GMT-Master II variant, featuring a slimmer case profile compared to the 16760 and the upgraded 3185 (later 3186 in Z-series examples from the mid-2000s), which improved reliability and added quick-set functionality. Available with "Coke" red-and-black or solid black aluminum bezels, it offered black dials and tritium lume that developed desirable over time, making it a collector favorite for its vintage charm and fading bezel inserts. Standard bracelets were fitted, with no options, and retail prices for these models rose from approximately $2,000 in the to around $5,000 by the early 2000s, reflecting incremental enhancements in materials like sapphire crystals. These early stainless steel models shared core traits, including 100-meter water resistance, bi-directional bezels for GMT tracking, and a professional-grade build without embellishments, prioritizing functionality for pilots and travelers. Their collectibility stems from the aging lume's warm glow and the aluminum bezels' tendency to fade uniquely, driving current market values to $ or more for well-preserved examples. This era's designs laid the groundwork for later innovations, including the shift to bezels in 2007.

Ceramic Bezel Era (2007 onwards)

The Ceramic Bezel Era marked a significant for the GMT-Master II, beginning in 2007 with the introduction of the proprietary Cerachrom material for the insert, which replaced aluminum for enhanced durability and permanence of color. This high-tech ceramic, developed by Rolex, offered superior resistance to scratches, corrosion, and fading from UV exposure, ensuring the bezel's markings remained crisp over time and contributing to better long-term value retention compared to earlier painted or anodized inserts. The era's models retained the 40mm Oystersteel case design updated in 2005, focusing on practical traveler's watches while experimenting with color combinations and precious metals. The reference 116710LN, launched in 2007 and produced until 2019, represented the first GMT-Master II with a fully black Cerachrom bezel and served as the last all-steel model with a monochromatic insert before diversifying color options. It featured a green GMT arrow hand for improved legibility against the black dial, paired with the automatic Caliber 3186 movement offering a 48-hour power reserve. This configuration emphasized understated functionality, with the non-fading black bezel enhancing its appeal for professional use. In 2013, Rolex introduced the reference 116710BLNR, affectionately known as the "Batman" for its blue-and-black two-tone Cerachrom —the first such bicolor insert in the GMT-Master II lineup. Powered by the same Caliber 3186, it maintained the 40mm Oystersteel case and black dial but introduced a GMT hand to complement the bezel, broadening the model's aesthetic versatility while upholding the era's focus on durable, fade-resistant materials. Production continued until 2019. Rolex expanded into luxury variants in 2014 with the reference 116719BLRO, a white gold GMT-Master II featuring the iconic red-and-blue "Pepsi" Cerachrom bezel on an bracelet, retailing for over $30,000 and positioning it as a high-end reinterpretation of the classic color scheme. Equipped with the 3186 and a black dial, this model highlighted the Cerachrom's ability to replicate vibrant, non-fading hues in precious metals. A related white gold variant, the reference 116719LN, offered a black Cerachrom bezel option, further diversifying the lineup with options for subtle elegance. Throughout this period, the Caliber 3186 served as the reliable workhorse, laying groundwork for future enhancements like the 70-hour power reserve introduced later in the decade with updated movements. Bracelet choices remained predominantly the style for robustness, though options began to emerge in prototypes and limited contexts, signaling a shift toward more refined wearability. The Cerachrom bezels' inherent permanence not only preserved visual integrity but also bolstered desirability, as collectors valued the material's resistance to everyday wear.

Recent Releases (2018-2025)

In 2018, revived the iconic "" color scheme in with the GMT-Master II reference 126710BLRO, featuring a and Cerachrom paired with a Jubilee bracelet for enhanced comfort and elegance. This model is powered by the 3285 , offering a 70-hour power reserve and precision certified as a Superlative . With a retail price exceeding $10,000, it marked a significant update by combining the classic dual-time functionality with modern ceramic materials and bracelet options. That same year, introduced the reference 126711CHNR, a two-tone model in Oystersteel and Everose gold known as the "" for its distinctive and Cerachrom . Mounted on an bracelet, it utilizes the same 3285 for reliable GMT tracking, emphasizing 's blend of precious metals with durable ceramic inserts for everyday versatility. Building on the popularity of the "Batman" variant, updated the reference 126710BLNR in 2019, introducing a and Cerachrom in with the option for a bracelet alongside the traditional . This iteration retained the 3285, enhancing the model's appeal through refined proportions and bracelet flexibility while maintaining water resistance to 100 meters. In 2022, expanded its offerings with the left-handed reference 126720VTNR, the first "Destro" GMT-Master II in , featuring a green and Cerachrom and positioned on the left side for right-wrist wearers. Available on both and bracelets, it incorporates the 3285, providing intuitive dual-time readability tailored to southpaws or those preferring reversed orientation. The year 2024 saw the debut of the reference 126710GRNR in , introducing a subtle gray and black on a bracelet, offering a monochromatic aesthetic that complements diverse wristwear. Equipped with the 3285, this standard right-handed model underscores Rolex's ongoing innovation in colorways while preserving the 40mm case's robustness. Although no dedicated left-handed variant in gray and black was released that year, the configuration builds on prior explorations. In 2025, launched the reference 126729VTNR in 18 kt , featuring a and Cerachrom and the brand's first-ever Cerachrom dial, a high-technology component that matches the bezel's daytime segment for visual harmony. This left-handed model, with its crown on the left, utilizes the Caliber 3285 and represents a milestone in material application, enhancing legibility and scratch resistance.

Cultural Significance

Notable Wearers

The Rolex GMT-Master II has long been associated with individuals embodying adventure, precision, and global travel, from pioneering aviators to modern athletes and entertainers. Its design, originally tailored for tracking multiple time zones, appealed to those navigating international boundaries, enhancing its status as a symbol of reliability and sophistication. Early adopters included Pan Am pilots in the mid-20th century, for whom the precursor GMT-Master was specifically developed in 1955 to facilitate transatlantic flights by displaying local and home time simultaneously. These aviators, crossing multiple time zones on long-haul routes, relied on the watch's 24-hour bezel and independent GMT hand for operational accuracy, establishing the model's legacy in aviation. In entertainment, actor has been a prominent wearer, notably sporting a vintage GMT-Master II "Pepsi" reference 16750 both on-screen and in personal appearances since the 1980s. Selleck has expressed enduring affection for the model, citing its red-and-blue as complementing his style and the vibrant aesthetics of his roles, which helped popularize the watch among enthusiasts during that era. Among sports figures, tennis legend , a ambassador since 2001, frequently wears various GMT-Master II variants, including the "Batman" (ref. 116710BLNR) and "Sprite" (ref. 126720VTNR), often during tournaments and public events. Federer's choice underscores the watch's alignment with athletic precision and endurance, as he has been spotted with custom-engraved pieces that reflect his global career. The GMT-Master II's appeal extends to other adventurers and professionals, such as Formula 1 driver and pilot Sir , a Rolex Testimonee since 1968, who has worn it during high-stakes travels. This broad adoption by over a dozen high-profile figures in media and endorsements reinforces the model's prestige as a versatile tool watch for those pursuing excellence across borders.

Collectibility and Market

The Rolex GMT-Master II has experienced significant value appreciation on the , driven by high demand and limited availability at authorized dealers. As of November 2025, retail prices for current models range from approximately $10,900 for variants to over $45,000 for versions, such as the white gold ref. 126719BLRO. On the , popular discontinued references like the all-black bezel 116710LN, which retailed for around $8,450, now command prices of $11,500 to $12,000, representing premiums of up to 45% over original retail. Rarity plays a key role in collectibility, with models produced in far smaller quantities than counterparts. Vintage examples with dials, such as the 1980s-1990s ref. 16710, often fetch $12,000 to $15,000 due to their and , appealing to collectors seeking over modern luminescence. Auction results underscore this demand; "" (red-and-blue) variants consistently lead bidding, with recent lots exceeding $20,000 for well-preserved pieces. Beyond , the GMT-Master II's cultural footprint enhances its market allure, appearing as a subtle in films and influencing trends through its bold designs. As an , the model has shown annual appreciation of 5-10% in recent years, bolstered by the growth of Rolex's program since 2022, which has expanded access and verified authenticity for secondary buyers. The 2025 white gold variant (ref. 126729VTNR) has gained attention among collectors for its innovative green dial, blending tradition with modern aesthetics.

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