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Bezel

A bezel is a , groove, or that encircles and secures an object, most commonly used in jewelry to hold a , in horology to a watch , in toolmaking as the angled edge of cutting tools, and in to border a screen. In jewelry, a bezel setting consists of a continuous metal band that wraps around the of a , providing secure protection while creating a sleek, modern appearance which can reduce the 's brilliance and sparkle compared to prong settings, as it allows less light to enter the stone. This technique, favored for its durability in everyday wear, has been employed since ancient times but gained popularity in contemporary designs for engagement rings and pendants due to its streamlined aesthetic. In watchmaking, the bezel is the outermost ring of the case that holds the in place and may be fixed or rotatable to enable functions such as timing , measuring speed, or tracking elapsed time via engraved scales like dive or tachymeter markings. Rotating bezels, often unidirectional for safety in diving watches, allow users to calculate durations without adjusting the main dial, a feature standardized in models compliant with ISO 6425 for professional dive instruments. In modern technology, a bezel refers to the physical frame surrounding the screen of devices such as smartphones, tablets, televisions, and monitors, which provides and houses components like cameras or sensors; "bezel-less" designs reduce this border to maximize screen-to-body ratio for immersive viewing. Advancements in , including edge-to-edge displays, have minimized bezel widths to as little as 1-2 millimeters in smartphones since the mid-2010s.

Etymology and History

Linguistic Origins

The word "bezel" originates from the Old French term besel or bisel, attested as early as the 13th century, where it denoted the sloped edge of a tool or the groove designed to hold a stone in place. This Old French form is a dialectal variant of biseau, the modern French word for a sloping or beveled edge. The etymology traces further to bis-alus, apparently combining Latin bis ("twice") with the suffix -al, though the sense connection is obscure. Alternative theories link biseau to a variation on bijou ("jewel"), itself from bizou or bisou ("finger ring"). The term entered the English language around 1611, initially applied to the oblique faces of cut gems and the settings securing them, as well as to slanted edges in tooling contexts. This adoption reflects the word's early association with precision craftsmanship involving angled surfaces. As a Romance language derivative, "bezel" shares roots with cognates like Italian bisello, which refers to a chamfer or beveled edge in architectural and carpentry applications. Over time, the linguistic evolution of "bezel" has extended its application to modern domains such as jewelry settings and watch components, maintaining its core connotation of an encircling or sloped boundary.

Historical Usage

The term "bezel" entered English usage in the early 17th century, with the first documented appearances in texts describing gemstone settings in jewelry, where it referred to the metal rim or groove encircling and holding a stone in place. For instance, a 17th-century English gold ring featured a circular bezel set with a toadstone, illustrating the term's application to protective frames for gems in rings and other adornments. By the , "bezel" expanded into horology, appearing in treatises and descriptions of clocks and watches to describe the rim that secured the glass crystal over or served as a decorative outer ring. This usage reflected growing precision in timekeeping craftsmanship, as seen in an oval white enamel watch case from around by Matthew Kiblich of Presburg, where the bezel was encrusted with brilliants and emeralds for ornamental effect. Such references in horological literature highlighted the bezel's role in both functionality and during an era of advancing mechanical innovations. During the , the term was introduced into toolmaking descriptions, particularly for the sloped cutting edge—known as the bezel—on implements like and blades, adapting its original sense of an angled rim to practical . Late 19th-century guides to emphasized varying bezel angles based on material hardness; for soft woods, bezels were ground as low as 20 degrees to ensure clean cuts, while harder woods required steeper angles for durability. In the , "bezel" appeared in contexts of and early electrical devices, often denoting the framing rim for lenses or light sources, such as in designs that protected and positioned illuminants. texts from the period described bezels integrated with dome fixtures, enabling efficient activation by conductors in emerging urban lighting systems.

In Jewelry and Gemology

Bezel Setting

A bezel setting is a jewelry technique that secures a gemstone within a metal collar or groove encircling its girdle, typically formed by bending or soldering a rim of metal around the stone to hold it in place. This method provides a protective enclosure perpendicular to the jewelry's surface, ensuring the gem remains stable without relying on prongs or claws. The construction process starts with preparing a seat from , cut to fit just larger than the gemstone's base, often with a thickness of 0.25 to 0.33 times the stone's height for adequate support. The gem is positioned into this seat, and the surrounding metal wall is then burnished or hammered over the using tools like a burnisher or split to compress and secure it firmly. For added precision with faceted stones, the bezel depth should exceed 4.0 mm, with the bearing surface covering at least 50% of the crown height to prevent slippage. Variations include the closed bezel, which fully encloses the gemstone's sides for maximum protection, and the open or partial bezel, where sections of the metal rim are left unclosed to enhance visibility and light exposure. These settings are commonly made from , silver, or , materials chosen for their malleability and durability, and they accommodate various gem shapes, including smooth cabochons and multifaceted stones. Bezel settings hold historical prominence in ancient jewelry, where they were frequently employed in scarab rings and amulets to mount steatite, , or seal stones in swiveling or fixed bezels. This technique persisted into medieval , as seen in rings with cabochon sapphires or garnets secured in folded bezel rims for both decorative and purposes.

Faceting and Gem Preparation

In , the bezel facets refer to the upper oblique faces or slopes on a faceted , positioned adjacent to the central facet and forming the primary structure of . These facets, often kite-shaped in brilliant cuts, surround the table and extend toward the , serving as the main surfaces that capture and reflect entering the stone. The role of bezel facets in gem cutting is to direct light reflection and refraction, enhancing the stone's brilliance and fire by channeling rays from the table through the interior and back to the viewer. In a standard round brilliant cut, there are typically eight bezel facets, which work in concert with surrounding star and upper girdle facets to maximize light return; variations in number, such as up to 16 in modified brilliant cuts, allow adaptation to different gem shapes while preserving optical performance. Proper alignment of these facets ensures minimal light leakage, contributing to the overall scintillation of the gem. In gemological terminology, bezel facets are distinctly contrasted with facets, which form the lower portion of the stone below the and focus on to preserve light within the gem. Bezel facets are crucial for achieving and proportion in various cuts, such as the emerald cut's rectangular step facets that emphasize clarity or the marquise cut's elongated, pointed bezels that elongate the stone's appearance. This division between (bezel-inclusive) and structures underscores the balanced design principles in . The historical development of bezel facets traces back to the evolution of techniques from simple table cuts in the medieval period to more complex forms in the , when the rose cut introduced multiple triangular crown facets resembling early bezels to improve light play on flat-backed stones. By the , advancements in refined these into the precursors of modern bezel facets, seen in cuts like the Mazarin with 17 crown facets, leading to the precision of the that standardized their form for optimal . Measurement standards for bezel facets emphasize precise angles to achieve ideal light performance, with crown angles—defined by the plane of the bezel facets relative to the —typically ranging from 34 to 40 degrees in well-cut gems, balancing brilliance without causing excessive or . These angles are calculated to ensure light enters and exits efficiently, with deviations impacting the stone's visual appeal; for instance, ideal round brilliants target around 34.5 degrees for the crown angle. Once prepared, faceted gems with optimized bezel facets are often integrated into bezel settings during jewelry assembly to protect the while allowing light to interact with these surfaces.

In Horology

Watch Bezel Components

In horology, the bezel is defined as the ring-shaped rim that encircles the and secures the in place, often featuring engravings or markings that enhance the watch's aesthetic and structural . This component forms part of the traditional three-part watch case structure, enclosing the upper portion alongside the middle case and back, thereby protecting the internal mechanisms while defining the 's visible contour. In both wristwatches and pocket watches, the bezel has historically served as a protective frame, evolving to support increasingly durable over time. Common materials for watch bezels include for its durability and corrosion resistance, for superior scratch resistance and lightweight properties, aluminum for cost-effective anodized finishes, and precious metals such as or for luxury applications. Many modern bezels incorporate scratch-resistant elements, such as composites or synthetic inserts, to maintain clarity and longevity under daily wear. These materials are selected not only for functionality but also to complement the overall case design, ensuring seamless visual harmony. Bezel construction varies between fixed and rotating variants, with fixed bezels typically secured via , screw-down, or press-fit mechanisms to the middle case for stability. Rotating bezels, such as unidirectional or bidirectional types, employ additional internal mechanisms like friction fittings, spring clips, or ball-bearing systems to enable controlled movement while integrating tightly with the case middle and lugs for a cohesive structure. This integration ensures the bezel aligns flush with the case's upper edges and lug extensions, preventing gaps that could compromise water resistance or aesthetics. Typical bezel diameters for modern wristwatches range from 38 to 44 mm, aligning with overall case sizes that balance wearability and presence on the . Profiles vary for aesthetic purposes, including flat edges for a modern, streamlined look or sloped and domed designs that catch light and add depth to the watch's . Bezel components originated with early watches in the , where they functioned as simple metal rims securing the crystal in open-face or hunter-case designs, often crafted from or other metals by specialized case makers. The transition to functional rotating bezels began in the early , with patents like William Eastwood's 1917 "revolvulable bezel" and Philip Van Horn Weems' 1935 design for . By the early , as wristwatches gained prominence, bezels evolved from these static rims into more robust constructions, incorporating screw-down attachments and durable materials to meet emerging standards for active use. In contemporary dive watches, bezel standards emphasize reinforced integration with the case for enhanced pressure resistance, building on these foundations to support professional-grade durability.

Functions and Types

In horology, watch bezels serve multiple primary functions beyond mere aesthetics, including the protection of the face against impacts and environmental factors by securing it firmly within the case. They also enable practical timing operations, such as tracking elapsed time during dives via graduated scales that allow users to align the bezel with the minute hand at the start of an activity. Additionally, specialized bezels incorporate navigational aids like bearings or GMT indicators for dual-time zone tracking, facilitating global travel or orientation in low-visibility conditions. Bezels are broadly categorized into fixed and rotating types, each tailored to specific utilitarian roles. Fixed bezels remain stationary and often engraved scales for tachymeters, which calculate speed based on distance and time, or decorative elements that enhance readability without mechanical interaction. Rotating bezels, conversely, provide dynamic functionality; unidirectional variants rotate only counterclockwise to prevent accidental overestimation of elapsed time—a critical feature in dive watches—while bidirectional ones allow full for versatile applications like general timing or slide-rule computations. Locking mechanisms, such as push-button releases or crown-integrated clamps, further secure rotating bezels against inadvertent shifts during active use, as seen in models from brands like and Yema. Prominent examples illustrate these functions in context. Dive bezels, compliant with ISO 6425 standards, typically feature 120-click mechanisms for precise minute-by-minute adjustments over a 60-minute scale, enabling divers to monitor immersion duration with high accuracy while contributing to overall water resistance ratings exceeding 200 meters. Slide-rule bezels, prevalent in pilot watches like the , employ logarithmic scales for in-flight calculations such as fuel consumption, distance, or conversion rates, rotating independently to align with the dial for rapid arithmetic without external tools. Innovations have enhanced bezel performance, particularly in demanding environments. Lume-filled markers and pips on dive bezels ensure visibility in low-light or underwater settings, glowing for extended periods to maintain legibility during nocturnal or deep-sea operations. In luxury models, ceramic constructions—ranging from steel-backed inserts to full rings—offer superior and longevity, reducing wear from prolonged exposure while integrating seamlessly with high water standards. These advancements align with ISO 6425 requirements for bezel , ensuring robust into the case for at depths of 100 meters or more.

In Toolmaking

Cutting Tool Bezel

In cutting tools, the bezel refers to the sloped or face immediately adjacent to , found on implements such as chisels, knives, and blades. This feature forms the angled transition from the tool's flat back or side to the sharp edge, enabling effective material removal. The term originates from the notion of sloped edges, tracing back to besel, denoting a or . The geometry of the bezel typically consists of a single bevel on one side for asymmetrical tools like chisels or a double bevel for symmetrical edges on knives. Common angles range from 20° to 30°, with paring chisels often at 20° for delicate work and bench chisels at 25° for general use, sometimes incorporating a microbevel of 30°–35° for added . These angles sharpness with strength, minimizing the risk of edge collapse under load while promoting efficient honing. The bezel's primary purpose is to enable clean, controlled cuts by directing severed material away from the kerf, thereby reducing binding and against the tool body. This design is crucial for in , where it allows the tool to register accurately against workpieces, and in , where it supports shear forces without excessive drag. By concentrating force at , the bezel enhances cutting efficiency and longevity, as the angled surface distributes stress and aids in dissipation during use. Documented in 18th-century tool manuals like Joseph Moxon's Mechanick Exercises (1703), the bezel appeared on forming, paring, and mortising chisels used for stock removal and , reflecting early standardization for hand-driven tasks. By the , with the rise of tools and cast-steel production, bezel geometries became more uniform, as seen in inventories and designs from makers like Amasa Thompson, facilitating in industrialized workshops. Bezel variations include hollow-ground and flat configurations, tailored to material and application. A hollow-ground bezel, formed by grinding against a rotating wheel, creates a concave profile that removes less metal during maintenance and minimizes surface contact for smoother slicing in softwoods. In contrast, a flat bezel, achieved with abrasive platters or stones, provides robust edge support for tough materials like hardwoods or metals, though it demands more honing effort over time.

Applications in Tools

In , chisels and gouges often incorporate micro-bezels—small secondary angles honed at a steeper than the primary bezel—to enable controlled cutting depth and minimize tear-out, particularly when working with dense hardwoods like or . This design allows woodworkers to achieve precise paring and scraping without excessive splintering, as the micro-bezel provides added durability under lateral . For instance, a primary bezel of 25 degrees combined with a 30-degree micro-bezel facilitates finer in end-grain applications, helping reduce surface damage compared to single-angle edges, particularly in figured woods. In , tools featuring negative bezels are essential for tough alloys such as or , where the backward-leaning enhances tool strength and promotes effective chip evacuation. The negative , typically ranging from -5 to -10 degrees, distributes cutting forces more evenly across the tool , preventing built-up formation and allowing continuous cuts at higher feeds without excessive heat buildup. This configuration improves chip by producing thicker, more breakable that clear the workpiece more readily, extending tool life in high-strength operations. For everyday tools like kitchen knives, bezel of 15-20 degrees per side offer ergonomic advantages for slicing tasks, enabling smoother, more efficient cuts through vegetables, meats, and herbs with reduced hand fatigue. These acute angles create a razor-sharp that requires less downward force, promoting a rocking or push-cut motion that aligns with natural wrist and minimizes wedging in fibrous materials. Japanese-style gyuto knives, for example, commonly use 15-degree bezels for filleting and thin slicing, resulting in cleaner cuts and up to 40% less resistance compared to broader 20-degree profiles. Maintenance of bezel geometry in these tools relies on honing techniques that precisely match the established , typically using whetstones or diamond plates to restore the edge without altering the primary profile. Woodworkers and machinists employ guided systems or angle markers to maintain consistency, starting with coarser (e.g., 1000) for bevel repair and progressing to finer ones (e.g., 6000) for , ensuring the bezel is replicated within 1-2 degrees for optimal . This method prevents over-grinding, preserves tool balance, and can extend edge retention by honing only the micro-bezel section, a process that takes 5-10 minutes per session for most hand tools. Modern adaptations in industrial toolmaking leverage CNC machining to produce bezels with unparalleled consistency, eliminating variations inherent in manual grinding and ensuring uniform edge geometry across high-volume production runs. CNC mills equipped with angled end mills or specialized beveling heads can replicate complex bezel profiles—such as compound angles for multi-purpose inserts—to tolerances of ±0.01 mm, enhancing reliability in automated lines for aerospace and automotive components. This precision improves cutting efficiency through optimized chip flow but also reduces rejection rates in quality control by standardizing bezel rake and relief angles.

In Electronics and Displays

Screen Bezel Design

In electronic displays, the bezel refers to the border or frame that surrounds the active screen area in devices such as monitors, smartphones, and televisions, providing and enclosing internal components. This frame separates the visible display from the device's outer casing, often serving a protective function akin to bezels in horology by shielding the screen edges from damage. Bezel materials typically include for lightweight and cost-effective construction, metal such as aluminum for durability in premium devices, or composites in high-end models to blend seamlessly with the surface. Thin bezels, often under 5 mm in width, enhance immersive viewing by maximizing the screen-to-body ratio and reducing the frame's visual prominence. Design principles for screen bezels emphasize minimizing visual interruption to create a more seamless viewing experience, with narrower profiles allowing content to extend closer to the edges without distraction. Bezels also integrate essential components like ports, buttons, speakers, and sensors, balancing aesthetics with functionality while maintaining device integrity. Historically, bezels evolved from the thick, bulky frames of cathode ray tube (CRT) displays in the 1980s, which were necessary to accommodate the curved glass and electron gun assembly, to the slimmer profiles of liquid crystal display (LCD) panels in the 1990s and 2000s. By the 2010s, organic light-emitting diode (OLED) technology enabled near-bezel-less designs, further reducing frame sizes for edge-to-edge visuals. Ergonomically, bezel width significantly affects perceived screen size, as thinner frames increase the effective viewing area relative to the device's overall dimensions, making displays appear larger and more engaging. Industry standards like the influence bezel proportions by aligning frame dimensions with the format, optimizing horizontal for tasks such as video consumption and . This ratio ensures bezels complement the screen's elongated shape without disproportionate overhangs.

Modern Developments

In recent years, the has focused on minimizing screen bezels to enhance and maximize display real estate in smartphones and tablets. A key advancement is the adoption of four-edge bending panels, which curve the display around all sides of the device to achieve ultra-slim or virtually bezel-less designs. Apple is reportedly planning to implement this technology in future models, such as the 20th anniversary edition in 2027, prompting manufacturers like Samsung Display and to develop quad-curved panels. For instance, the 17 series, released in 2025, features slimmer bezels as thin as 1 mm on the base model, improving the screen-to-body ratio. This approach reduces bezel width significantly compared to traditional flat panels, allowing for larger effective screen sizes without increasing overall device dimensions. Efforts to eliminate bezels entirely through under-display cameras (UDCs) have progressed but encountered hurdles related to image quality and light transmission. Initially introduced in devices like the Z Fold series, UDCs hide the beneath the screen to avoid notches or punch-holes. However, by 2025, has discontinued UDCs in its foldable lineup due to suboptimal performance and visibility issues, opting instead for conventional hole-punch cameras. Despite this, the UDC market continues to grow, projected to reach approximately $672 million in 2025, driven by ongoing refinements in and transparency layers. For larger displays such as TVs and monitors, modular bezel-less tiling has emerged as a transformative development. At MWC 2025, Display unveiled its Tile technology, combining multiple panels with ultra-thin 0.6mm bezels—40% narrower than industry averages—to form seamless, large-scale screens without visible seams. This includes configurations like ten 6.8-inch panels or two 31.5-inch QD-OLED monitors, enabling customizable, wall-sized displays that rival in immersion while offering greater portability and easier installation. Such innovations support applications in and home entertainment, where bezel reduction enhances visual continuity and aesthetic integration.

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