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Ruana

A ruana is a traditional poncho-style outer garment native to the Andean highlands of and , consisting of a rectangular cloth with a central slit for the head and a front opening that allows it to be wrapped securely around the body for warmth. Typically handwoven from virgin , it features simple geometric patterns and serves both as protective against the cold climate and as a versatile wrap or blanket. The garment's design distinguishes it from a standard by enabling a more fitted drape, making it practical for daily use in rural life. The ruana's origins trace back to pre-Columbian indigenous textiles of the (Chibcha) people in the Cundinamarca and Boyacá regions of , where early versions evolved from cotton mantas—rectangular cloths symbolizing and used in trade or rituals. During the Spanish colonial period in the 16th and 17th centuries, the introduction of sheep led to a shift toward production, transforming these mantas into the woolen ruana due to shortages and colonial demands for tributes in textiles. In Venezuela's Andean , similar adaptations occurred, with the garment incorporating local weaving innovations like added loom shafts for intricate patterns by the mid-20th century. Culturally, the ruana embodies resilience and heritage among , , and rural communities, particularly in Colombia's —known as the "cradle of the ruana"—where it is still handcrafted on traditional horizontal looms using natural dyes and passed down through generations. It holds symbolic importance as a marker of , worn by farmers, artisans, and even notable figures historically, and is celebrated annually through events like the World Day of the Ruana and the National Festival of the Ruana in Boyacá, highlighting its role in folk traditions and artisanal economy. Today, while rooted in highland practicality, the ruana has gained global fashion appeal for its warmth and versatility, yet retains its status as an enduring emblem of Andean .

Description

Design and Features

The ruana is a traditional outer garment defined by its straightforward rectangular form, featuring a central slit that serves as an opening for the head, allowing it to function as a poncho-style wrap. This basic structure drapes loosely over the shoulders and arms, providing symmetrical coverage that falls to the knees or lower, with the front split enabling the panels to part for ease of movement. Typically measuring about 1.2 to 1.7 meters (4 to 5.5 feet) in both length and width, varying by region and purpose, the design ensures ample fabric for layering while accommodating the wearer's body without restriction. Ruanas are generally , though historical variations included shorter versions for men evolving from ponchos, while women used longer blankets like the chircate. Distinctive features include along the edges, which not only adds ornamental flair but also reinforces durability, alongside woven colored stripes or simple geometric patterns that introduce decorative elements without compromising simplicity. Functionally, the ruana excels in warmth retention through its enveloping drape and insulating overlap, making it ideal for the cool Andean climate. Its loose fit and open front enhance versatility, supporting everyday activities as well as equestrian tasks in highland rural settings.

Materials and Construction

The ruana is traditionally crafted from hand-spun obtained from local sheep breeds raised in the Andean highlands of . This virgin provides essential warmth and durability, making it well-suited to the region's , variable weather conditions due to its natural insulation properties and moisture-wicking abilities. In contemporary adaptations, some ruanas incorporate or blends for lighter weight and easier care, though these deviate from ancestral practices. The construction process begins with shearing the sheep to harvest raw , followed by cleaning and to prepare the fibers. The cleaned is then hand-spun into using a drop spindle or , a labor-intensive step that ensures even thickness and strength for . Once spun, the is dyed using natural plant-based extracts, such as those derived from insects for reds or plants for blues, applied in baths to achieve colorfastness. Weaving occurs on rustic manual , often frame-style setups passed down through generations, where the dyed is threaded as and to form the rectangular base fabric. Artisans set up the by tensioning the yarns, then interlace the weft using simple techniques to create the dense, poncho-like structure with a central opening. After , fringes are added by twisting or knotting the excess ends along the edges for decorative and functional reinforcement. Final finishing involves trimming loose threads, resulting in a garment that can last for decades with proper care. The wool's inherent content further enhances its weather resistance, allowing the ruana to repel light moisture while maintaining breathability in the Andean climate.

History and Origins

Etymology

The term "ruana" has multiple proposed etymological roots, reflecting the cultural and linguistic blending in the Andean region during the colonial era. One prominent theory derives it from the language, where "ruana" refers to a or simple garment, possibly evolving to denote a basic covering for the body. This aligns with Quechua's broader vocabulary for woven fabrics, though the word's exact form in Quechua dialects varies. Alternatively, scholars suggest an origin in the spoken by the people of , interpreting "ruana" as "land of blankets," a reference to the indigenous production of woolen textiles in the highlands. During the Spanish colonial period, the term was adopted in the 16th century within the (present-day and ), as encountered and integrated local attire into their . Early written records appear in 17th-century trade documents from ports like and , where "ruana" initially described imported luxury woolen cloths akin to those from , , before shifting to signify heavy, rectangular poncho-like garments worn by locals. These texts highlight the word's adaptation from contexts to colonial commerce, with influences from textile traditions distinguishing it from similar terms like "poncho," which stems from the "punchu" meaning a woven or fabric. Spelling and pronunciation variations, such as "ruanna" in some older Spanish-American documents or elongated forms in regional dialects, reflect phonetic adaptations across Andean communities, though the standard "ruana" became prevalent by the 18th century. This linguistic evolution underscores the ruana's roots in and neighboring practices, separate from broader Quechua-influenced nomenclature in southern Andean cultures.

Early Development and Spread

The ruana traces its pre-Columbian roots to the indigenous (also known as Chibcha) and other Andean groups in present-day during the , where it functioned as a basic rectangular wrap or manta primarily made from heavy cotton cloth. These mantas were integral to Muisca society, used in daily life, (such as exchanging for ), ceremonies, and burials, with colors denoting social status—red for religious leaders honoring the sun, white for moon worship, and green for the elite. Spanish chroniclers, including Fray Pedro Aguado in 1581, documented these textiles in detail, noting their craftsmanship and cultural significance upon European arrival in the region. During the 16th-century , the ruana underwent significant adaptation following the introduction of sheep and , which replaced scarce due to demands and environmental factors, transforming the garment into its thicker, more durable form suited to the Andean cold. encountered the ruana through these chronicles and adopted it for practical use among laborers, herders, and peasants, who wore it as an affordable, versatile outer layer amid the conquest's social upheavals; by the , production had become widespread among descendants under colonial pressures. Initially viewed as a "rustic" attire by Europeans, it symbolized subjugation for the conquered but proved essential for rural work in the highlands of Cundinamarca and Boyacá. In the , the ruana spread along Andean trade routes from production centers like in Boyacá, reaching broader markets in and extending to by the early 1800s amid growing economic exchanges in the region. This diffusion accelerated during the independence wars (1810–1820s), when ruanas were worn for their practicality by soldiers, civilians, and liberating creoles, including Simón Bolívar's army, as they traversed harsh Andean terrain—helping to build local alliances and restoring the garment's prestige beyond peasant use. By the war's end, it had become a symbol of emerging national identity across , including Venezuelan Andean states like and Mérida, where colonial-era adoption had already taken root.

Regional Variations

In Colombia

Colombia serves as the primary origin of the ruana, a traditional poncho-like garment deeply rooted in the Andean highlands, where its production remains centered among indigenous and communities. The garment's development traces back to influences in the Cundinamarca-Boyacá region, evolving through colonial Spanish adaptations to become an essential piece for protection against the cold mountain weather. In Boyacá, ruanas are typically crafted from plain, rustic , ideal for herders and rural laborers who rely on their durability and warmth in the highland pastures. These simple designs emphasize functionality, using 100% virgin sheep's handwoven on traditional looms in towns like Nobsa and Ráquira, where cooperatives preserve ancestral techniques passed down through generations. Production extends to other areas, such as Sopó in Cundinamarca, where weavers like the Alarcón family create ruanas with vibrant colors and innovative structures while honoring local heritage. Regional diversity is evident in Antioquia and Caldas, where ruanas adapt to more varied uses, including urban settings, with production noted in both departments alongside Boyacá. In Caldas, particularly Marulanda, striped ruanas highlight artisanal patterns achieved through color-changing techniques, offering a blend of and aesthetic appeal. Annual festivals reinforce this , such as the World Ruana Day in Nobsa and the National Ruana and Festival in Paipa, Boyacá, which feature demonstrations, cultural dances, and markets showcasing regional variations. The ruana integrates into Colombia's national identity through its role in folk traditions, notably the bambuco dance, where men don the garment as part of traditional Andean attire to evoke rural elegance and cultural pride. This usage underscores its status as an emblem of highland life and communal heritage across the country's interior regions.

In Venezuela

The ruana entered Venezuelan culture during the (ca. 16th–19th centuries), becoming a fundamental overgarment in the Andean highlands, particularly in the states of , Mérida, and , where it provided essential protection against the cold mountain climate. Shared across the Colombia-Venezuela border through historical cultural exchanges, it integrated into the everyday attire and identity of Andean communities, often depicted in traditional roles such as artisans or laborers. In Mérida's high-altitude zones, ruanas are typically crafted from thick sheep to offer robust warmth, reflecting adaptations to the region's . These heavier styles contrast with variations in , where blends incorporating allow for lighter, more practical daily use in slightly milder Andean conditions. The ruana symbolizes Venezuela's fight for , as evidenced by the "Bolívar de los Andes" in Mérida's Plaza Bolivariana, which portrays clad in a traditional Mucuchíes ruana alongside his , honoring his 1813 as Libertador in the —a pivotal event in the liberation campaigns. This depiction underscores the garment's role among Andean patriots supporting Bolívar's troops during the wars against Spanish rule. Today, the ruana remains prominent in cultural celebrations, such as the Feria Nacional de Artesanías Venezolanas, where Mérida artisans display handwoven examples as emblems of regional heritage. Production hubs like Gavidia in Mérida sustain this tradition through family-based weaving cooperatives, where women since 2001 have revived ancestral techniques using local sheep wool to create durable, patterned ruanas that support community economies. Initiatives like Fundación Rutalana further bolster these cooperatives by promoting sustainable artisan projects across the state.

Cultural Significance

Traditional Uses

In the Andean regions of and , the ruana has traditionally provided essential protection against the cold during daily activities such as herding livestock, farming, and travel in rural highland areas. Its thick construction makes it versatile for these practical purposes, allowing wearers to shield themselves from harsh weather while maintaining mobility in mountainous terrain. Beyond outerwear, the ruana serves multiple functions in rural life, often doubling as for sleeping outdoors, a for rest, or a makeshift cover during picnics and transportation on local buses. This adaptability underscores its integral role in sustaining everyday needs among and communities, where it could be easily folded or repurposed without additional equipment. Ceremonially, the ruana holds significance in weddings, where grooms historically presented them to the bride's family as a to seal marital arrangements among descendants. In religious contexts, color symbolism from pre-colonial mantas—red for sun-honoring ceremonies and white for adoration by leaders—persisted into traditional observances with woolen ruanas. Gender-specific applications further highlight its cultural utility: men's ruanas, often paired with hats and , supported labor in fieldwork and , emphasizing durability for physical tasks, while women's versions, such as the longer chircate style, promoted and incorporated decorative elements for social settings. These uses have been documented in 20th-century ethnographic studies and oral accounts, including analyses of textile traditions from the 1990s that trace the ruana's evolution from colonial-era mantas, as well as Peace Corps observations in the 1960s detailing its role in rural cooperatives and daily survival amid social upheaval.

Symbolism and Identity

The ruana symbolizes simplicity and resilience, drawing from weaving practices that endured the impacts of European colonization in the Andean region. Originating from mantas—rectangular cotton cloths used for trade and social rituals—the garment evolved as communities adapted to introduced by colonizers in the late , transforming traditional forms amid economic tributes and resource scarcity. This shift preserved core elements of cultural expression, with weaving serving as a quiet act of resistance against cultural erasure. In and , the ruana fosters by evoking Andean motifs of rugged landscapes, rural labor, and communal bonds, indirectly aligning with broader symbols of in anthems and that celebrate endurance. It transcends its utilitarian roots to represent and pride, worn across social strata to affirm connection to the land and ancestral ways. Socially, the ruana functions as an indicator of status and skill; finer, intricately woven examples, often featuring detailed patterns, historically denoted wealth among elites and later artisans, while coarser variants marked everyday life. During the 2013 National Agrarian Strike, it emerged as an emblem of rural , with protesters donning ruanas to highlight campesino struggles for and . Preservation efforts since the 2010s have emphasized the ruana's role in cultural continuity, including annual festivals in Nobsa, Boyacá, that showcase artisan techniques and educate on its , alongside initiatives to support communities against modernization pressures. These activities reinforce the garment's status as a living symbol of regional pride and legacy.

Modern Production and Usage

Artisan Techniques

Artisan techniques for producing ruanas emphasize manual craftsmanship rooted in Andean traditions, primarily in regions like Boyacá, , where local rely on time-honored methods to create these garments. These processes involve skilled labor passed down through generations, ensuring the preservation of cultural patterns and in each piece. Key tools in ruana production include rustic wooden looms for and spindles for spinning into , tools that have been used by communities for centuries to maintain the garment's traditional form and texture. Natural dyes derived from and minerals are applied to the yarn to achieve earthy tones typical of Boyacá ruanas, enhancing their connection to the local landscape. Apprenticeship systems form the backbone of these techniques, with transmitted from master weavers to younger artisans in family or settings, fostering a continuity that has sustained the craft across generations. In Boyacá, workshops serve as hubs for this training, involving both men and women in collaborative learning and production. The step-by-step process begins with shearing sheep to obtain virgin , followed by washing the to remove impurities. The is then dried and carded to disentangle the fibers without breaking them, preparing it for spinning on spindles into fine thread. Warping, or setting parallel threads on the wooden (known as urdido), precedes the stage, where artisans interlace the to form the ruana's rectangular panels, often incorporating geometric Andean designs such as zigzags and borders that symbolize regional identity. Finally, the piece is removed from the , finished with any necessary trims, and packaged, resulting in a durable garment weighing around 1 to 2 pounds (0.5 to 1 kg). Master weavers, having honed their skills through years of , produce ruanas that can take up to a week or more to complete, depending on complexity and motifs. These artisans operate at varying skill levels, from novices learning basic weaves in workshops to experts crafting intricate patterns that distinguish high-quality pieces. Challenges in artisan ruana production include fluctuating values due to shifts, which complicate sourcing from local sheep farms in Boyacá, and environmental pressures like from that affect quality. Climate variability in the Andean highlands further impacts sheep health and fiber production, posing ongoing threats to traditional .

Contemporary Adaptations

In the , the ruana has evolved beyond its traditional roots, incorporating modern production techniques that blend methods with scaled to meet growing demand. Factories in regions like Nobsa, Boyacá, have expanded output since the late , often using synthetic fibers alongside to enhance affordability and durability for wider accessibility. This shift has allowed the garment to transition from rural staple to urban casual wear, where it serves as a versatile layer over or dresses for everyday city life in and beyond. The ruana's integration into high fashion has elevated its global profile through designer collaborations. At in 2018, Adriana Santacruz debuted her fall/winter prêt-à-porter collection titled La Ruana, drawing on Pastos weaving techniques like and with and to create eco-conscious pieces that merge ancestral spirituality with contemporary silhouettes. More recently, in 2025, Colombian brand Cubel showcased reinvented ruanas in their "Entretejidos" collection at , layering the traditional form with sporty elements and textured details using , , and recycled fibers such as for sustainable innovation. These efforts have facilitated exports to and the , where ruanas are sold through international retailers and markets, reflecting the garment's adaptability to global tastes. Today, ruanas function as popular souvenirs, symbolizing Colombian Andean and purchased by visitors in places like Nobsa during cultural festivals. Online platforms have further boosted artisan economies by enabling direct sales to international buyers, connecting producers with consumers worldwide and supporting local livelihoods through . Sustainability initiatives in the emphasize organic and natural dyes, addressing environmental impacts while preserving cultural techniques, as evidenced in modern collections prioritizing recycled materials.

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