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Fleece

Fleece refers to the woolly coat covering a sheep or other wool-bearing animal, such as a , which is harvested annually through shearing to yield raw for production. This natural insulation consists of crimped fibers that provide warmth and protection, with the term originating from fleos, meaning "fleece, , or fur," derived from Proto-Germanic roots. The from a single sheep, known as one fleece, typically weighs around 4.5 kg and can produce over 10 meters of fabric, depending on the breed and conditions. The evolution of fleece traces back to sheep domestication in the around 10,000–12,000 years ago, where wild ancestors had coarse, pigmented outer hairs and finer underwool that shed seasonally. during the period (circa 7000–5000 BCE) transformed these into finer, non-shedding fleeces suitable for human use, with early evidence of textiles appearing in the . By the and , white, fine-wooled breeds became prominent, with the emerging in the , driving economic prosperity through trade, as seen in medieval where fine was a key commodity. Today, with a global sheep population exceeding 1.2 billion, major producers like and yield millions of tonnes of annually, primarily fine fleece (≤24.5 microns) for apparel and coarser types for carpets and furnishings. In modern contexts, "fleece" also denotes synthetic fabrics mimicking natural 's insulating properties, developed in the as lightweight, water-repellent alternatives to using or piles. Pioneered by outdoor brands like in partnership with mills such as (now Polartec), these materials gained popularity for their durability and ease of care, evolving in the to include recycled from plastic bottles. While natural fleece remains valued for its and in high-end textiles, synthetic versions dominate casual outerwear due to cost and performance advantages.

Natural Fleece

Definition and Etymology

Fleece refers to the coat of that covers the body of a sheep or similar wool-bearing animal, consisting of a mass of crinkly fibers that grow from the skin. This natural covering serves as and protection, and it is distinct from processed , which involves cleaning, , and spinning the raw fleece into or fabric. In agricultural contexts, a fleece is typically the entire wool coat obtained from a single animal at one shearing, often weighing several pounds depending on the breed. The term "fleece" originates from flees, which denoted the woolly coat of a sheep. This evolved from flēos or flies, meaning "fleece, wool, fur, or sealskin," a word rooted in Proto-Germanic *flusją or *flusaz, shared with cognates like vluus and Vlies. Linguists trace it further to the *pleus-, connoting "to pluck" or "loose hair," which also underlies words for feathers and down in related languages, such as Latin plūma. Over time, "fleece" has extended metaphorically to describe synthetic fabrics designed to mimic the insulating qualities of natural animal fleece, though these are human-made polymers rather than biological growths.

Animal Sources

Natural fleece primarily derives from sheep (Ovis aries), which are the most significant animal source worldwide, with specialized s optimized for production. The breed is renowned for its fine , characterized by soft, high-quality fibers suitable for apparel, while coarser types come from breeds like the Romney, a dual-purpose animal also valued for . Sheep typically yield between 2 and 13 kg of greasy annually per animal, depending on breed, age, nutrition, and management practices. Goats also contribute substantially to natural fleece production, particularly through and varieties. is obtained from the undercoat of (Capra hircus), primarily raised in regions like and , where enhances down production. , meanwhile, comes from (Capra aegagrus hircus), which produce a lustrous, durable from their coat; these are shorn twice yearly, yielding around 4-7 kg per animal annually. Members of the camelid family, including alpacas, llamas, and vicuñas, provide diverse fleece types valued for their softness and insulation. Alpacas (Vicugna pacos), domesticated in for , produce a fine, averaging 2-3 kg per shearing, with annual yields up to 5 kg from high-quality herds. Llamas (Lama glama) yield coarser suitable for outerwear, typically 3-6 kg annually, while the wild vicuña (Vicugna vicugna) offers the finest and rarest fleece, harvested sustainably from live animals at about 0.2-0.5 kg per individual every two to three years. Less common sources include angora and yaks, which supplement global fleece diversity in niche markets. Angora (Oryctolagus cuniculus) produce luxurious, lightweight from their dense coat, with annual yields of 0.3-1 per rabbit through gentle plucking or shearing. Yaks (Bos grunniens), native to the , provide a warm underdown , yielding approximately 0.5-1.5 of fine per animal yearly, often combed from the coarser outer guard hairs. Regional variations highlight the dominance of certain breeds and locales in global supply. Australian sheep, thriving in arid conditions, account for over 70% of the world's apparel-grade fine production as of the , underscoring Australia's role as the leading exporter with herds of approximately 73 million sheep as of 2025. However, the Australian wool industry has faced ongoing debates regarding sustainability, particularly animal welfare concerns such as to prevent flystrike in sheep and protections for lambs during shearing and transport, with campaigns highlighting deficiencies in current practices.

Properties and Processing

Natural fleece exhibits distinctive physical properties that contribute to its functionality as a textile fiber. The crimp structure, characterized by the natural waviness of wool fibers, traps air pockets, enhancing insulation by creating a barrier against heat loss. This crimp also imparts softness and elasticity to the fiber. Additionally, the presence of lanolin, a natural wax secreted by sheep, coats the fibers and provides water resistance by repelling liquid moisture while allowing vapor to pass through. Fiber diameters vary significantly, with fine wool typically measuring less than 25 microns for softness suitable for apparel, and coarse wool exceeding 30 microns for durability in carpets or outerwear. Wool's thermal and moisture management properties further distinguish it from other natural fibers. It offers superior insulation compared to cotton, maintaining warmth even when wet due to its ability to retain air within the crimp structure. Wool also excels in moisture wicking, absorbing up to 30% of its weight in vapor without feeling damp and releasing it through evaporation, which helps regulate body temperature. These attributes make fleece particularly effective for clothing in varying climates. Processing natural fleece into usable wool involves several technical steps to transform the raw material from the sheep into and fabric. Shearing occurs annually for most sheep breeds, removing the entire fleece in one piece to obtain greasy weighing 10-15 pounds per for fine types. This is followed by scouring, where the is washed in a solution to remove , dirt, suint, and other impurities, reducing the weight significantly. then aligns the fibers using wire-covered rollers to disentangle and form slivers, preparing them for spinning. Spinning twists these slivers into , with variations like (for smooth ) or (for bulkier ) systems determining the final texture. Finally, the is woven or knitted into fabric, completing the conversion to products. Quality grading of fleece relies on standardized systems to assess value and suitability for end uses. The micron system measures average diameter objectively, with fine under 17.7 microns commanding higher prices for premium apparel, while coarse over 40 microns suits coarser applications. percentages evaluate efficiency, where clean wool after scouring typically ranges from 50-60% of the original greasy fleece weight for fine varieties, accounting for removed contaminants. These metrics, often combined with length and cleanliness assessments, guide sorting and pricing in the wool industry.

Synthetic Fleece

Invention and Production

Synthetic fleece, also known as polar fleece, was invented in 1981 by Malden Mills, a textile manufacturer based in Lawrence, Massachusetts, under the trademark Polarfleece. This innovation emerged as a response to the need for a lightweight, warm, and breathable alternative to wool, drawing inspiration from the insulating qualities of natural animal fleece. Malden Mills' then-CEO, Aaron Feuerstein, opted not to patent the fabric, allowing widespread adoption by the outdoor apparel industry, including early partnerships with companies like Patagonia. The primary material for synthetic fleece is (PET), a polymer derived from or, increasingly, recycled plastics such as post-consumer bottles. PET production begins with the of and to form resin chips, which serve as the raw feedstock. These chips are melted at temperatures between 260°C and 270°C and extruded through spinnerets—small nozzles that produce continuous filaments. The filaments are then cooled, drawn to enhance strength and elasticity, and texturized through processes like false-twist texturing to create bulk and crimp, mimicking the structure of fibers. These texturized yarns are knitted into a circular or flat fabric using or weft knitting machines to form a base . The fabric undergoes for color integration, followed by mechanical finishing steps to achieve its characteristic : napping or brushing raises surface fibers using wire brushes or rollers, while shearing trims them evenly to create a pile. Additional heat-setting stabilizes the structure, ensuring durability and insulation properties. The environmental impact of synthetic fleece production evolved significantly in the with the adoption of recycled . In 1993, collaborated with (later rebranded as Polartec) to develop the first fleece garments made from recycled soda bottles, marking a pioneering shift toward in the . This innovation allowed manufacturers to incorporate up to 100% recycled content in some products, reducing reliance on virgin petroleum-based by diverting plastic waste from landfills and cutting energy use in production by approximately 50% compared to traditional methods. By the late , this practice had become more widespread, influencing modern fleece production to prioritize recycled materials for reduced environmental footprint.

Types

Synthetic fleece fabrics are categorized primarily by their weight, measured in grams per square meter (), texture, and structural features, which determine their suitability for different garment components. The most common type is , a double-sided napped fabric typically weighing 100-300 , offering a consistent, brushed surface on both sides for balanced . A lighter variant is microfleece, characterized by finer fibers and a weight under 200 , resulting in a thinner, more compact structure that enhances packability while maintaining wind resistance through its dense weave. Sherpa fleece stands out for its thick, looped pile on one side, designed to mimic the texture of , with weights ranging from 200-400 to provide substantial bulk and loft. Other variants include French terry fleece, which features a single-sided loop interior against a smooth exterior, often in mid-weights around 200-300 gsm for a less bulky profile; coral fleece, known for its exceptionally soft, velvety finish from fine polyester yarns, typically 200-300 gsm; and heavyweight windproof types, exceeding 300 gsm with reinforced constructions to block airflow. Blends of and are also used in synthetic fleece production to improve , with common ratios such as 80% cotton/20% polyester enhancing overall durability without sacrificing the fabric's core insulating qualities.

Properties and Uses

Synthetic fleece is renowned for its high warmth-to-weight ratio, achieved by trapping insulating air within its lofty, napped structure, which allows it to deliver substantial retention without adding bulk. This property makes it particularly effective for cold-weather applications where mobility is essential. Additionally, it dries quickly after exposure to , outperforming many natural fibers in time. Modern formulations incorporate pill-resistant treatments, reducing the formation of surface fuzz after or , though early versions were more prone to pilling. However, compared to , synthetic fleece offers poorer , as its synthetic fibers can retain humidity against the skin during intense activity, potentially causing clamminess. In terms of durability, synthetic fleece demonstrates strong resistance to , enabling it to withstand repeated wear in rugged environments. It is fully machine-washable, simplifying maintenance and extending its lifespan compared to delicate alternatives. Certain treated variants enhance UV resistance, providing protection against sun degradation for prolonged outdoor use, with some achieving UPF 30 ratings. The versatility of synthetic fleece extends to a wide array of uses, primarily in apparel such as jackets, hats, and mid-layers for outdoor activities, where its lightweight excels. It is also commonly utilized in home goods like blankets and throws for , as well as for furniture and crafts for DIY projects. For example, a 200 mid-layer fleece typically yields an R-value between 0.34 and 0.78, delivering performance akin to a thin garment in dry conditions, though it loses effectiveness when wet. From a sustainability perspective, synthetic fleece benefits from recyclability, especially when produced from post-consumer recycled polyester bottles, reducing reliance on virgin petroleum. Nonetheless, it poses environmental challenges through microplastic shedding during laundering, with a single wash of a fleece jacket releasing up to 1.7 grams of microfibers into waterways, contributing to marine pollution. Innovations like anti-shedding weaves in polar fleece variants and microfiber-capturing laundry technologies, such as filters or bags, aim to mitigate this issue as of 2025.

Horticultural Fleece

Composition and Manufacture

Horticultural fleece is primarily composed of non-woven () fabric, a derived from monomers, which provides durability, breathability, and resistance to . This material is typically produced in weights ranging from 17 to 50 grams per square meter (), with lighter variants around 17 offering basic frost protection and heavier ones near 30 serving as barriers while maintaining air and permeability. Unlike fleeces, horticultural versions avoid napping processes to ensure a flat, uniform structure suitable for covering crops without excessive bulk. Biodegradable alternatives, such as or ()-based fleeces, are increasingly available for eco-friendly applications. The manufacture of horticultural fleece predominantly employs the , where is melted and extruded through spinnerets at temperatures between 200°C and 250°C to form continuous filaments. These filaments are then laid onto a moving to create a web, which is bonded thermally via calendering—passing between heated rollers—or occasionally by needle punching for enhanced cohesion, resulting in a microporous sheet without the need for chemical adhesives. Meltblown techniques may be used in specialized variants for finer structures, but remains the standard for its balance of strength and cost-effectiveness in agricultural applications. To enhance outdoor performance, additives such as UV stabilizers (e.g., or benzotriazoles) are incorporated during , providing resistance to and extending usability to 1-3 years under direct . Hydrophobic treatments, often silicone-based or coatings, are applied post-bonding to promote water shedding and prevent pooling, while preserving the fabric's breathability for moisture passage to plants. These formulations ensure compliance with agricultural standards for weight-specific functions, such as 17 for lightweight frost shields and 30 for pest exclusion, without compromising the material's rot-proof and washable qualities.

Agricultural Applications

Horticultural fleece serves as a versatile protective layer in , primarily used to shield crops from environmental stresses and enhance productivity without relying on chemical interventions. When draped over growing or supported by hoops and frames, it creates a beneficial that mitigates frost and wind damage, allowing farmers to extend the for sensitive crops such as strawberries and early . For and protection, lightweight horticultural fleece (typically 17-30 ) is placed directly over crops, trapping a layer of warm air that raises temperatures beneath the cover by 2-5°C compared to ambient conditions, depending on the fabric weight and . This effect protects tender shoots and fruits from temperatures as low as -3°C to -5°C, enabling earlier planting and later autumn harvests while reducing that can growth. In practice, growers in temperate regions like the apply it over row crops or young transplants, often removing it during the day to allow light and , which can advance maturity by 1-2 weeks for heat-loving . As an and barrier, finer variants of horticultural fleece, featuring mesh apertures of approximately 0.4-0.8 mm, form a physical screen that excludes common pests such as cabbage white butterflies, carrot flies, , and without impeding air circulation, light transmission, or rainfall. This non-chemical approach is particularly effective for and root crops, where it prevents oviposition and feeding damage, potentially reducing crop losses by up to 90% in infested fields when edges are securely buried or weighted. Unlike coarser , horticultural fleece maintains humidity levels suitable for plant health while minimizing the need for insecticides, aligning with strategies in . Case studies from demonstrate the efficacy of horticultural fleece in polytunnels for year-round production, particularly for soft fruits and salads. At facilities like those studied by the , integrating fleece as an inner barrier within polytunnels excluded key pests such as flea beetles and , enabling reductions in use while boosting yields through consistent control and extended seasons. Similar applications in commercial tunnels have supported off-season cropping, minimizing chemical inputs and enhancing in line with EU regulations on .

Mythology and Culture

The Golden Fleece

The myth of the centers on the quest undertaken by to retrieve the golden wool of the ram Chrysomallos from the kingdom of . According to the epic poem by Apollonius Rhodius, composed in the BCE, the fleece originated from a magical ram sent by the gods to save the children and Helle from sacrifice at the hands of their stepmother ; the ram flew them across the sea to , where sacrificed it in gratitude to King and dedicated the golden fleece to the god , hanging it in a guarded by an ever-watchful dragon. This narrative draws from earlier oral traditions, potentially reflecting ancient trade routes along the where precious metals like were exchanged, as evidenced by archaeological and historical analyses linking the tale to Colchian gold-mining practices using sheepskins to trap alluvial particles. Jason, the rightful heir to the throne of Iolcos in Thessaly, was displaced by his uncle Pelias, who promised to relinquish power if Jason fetched the fleece as proof of his worthiness. Assembling a crew of legendary heroes known as the Argonauts—including Heracles, Orpheus, and Castor and Pollux—Jason set sail on the divinely crafted ship Argo, embarking on a perilous voyage fraught with trials such as clashing rocks and encounters with mythical beings. Upon arriving in Colchis, King Aeëtes demanded impossible tasks to thwart the quest: yoking fire-breathing bulls to plow a field, sowing dragon's teeth that sprouted into armed warriors, and defeating them in battle; the king's daughter Medea, enchanted by Aphrodite at Hera's behest to aid Jason, provided magical ointments for protection and strategies to overcome the challenges. With Medea's further assistance—brewing a potion to lull the dragon into slumber—Jason seized the fleece from the oak tree, and the Argonauts fled Colchis with Medea aboard, evading pursuit through her sorcery. Within the tale, the symbolizes kingship, as its possession validates Jason's royal claim and divine right to rule, while also embodying divine favor through godly interventions and the allure of heroic adventure that tests human limits. This motif of the fleece as a coveted extends briefly to broader cultural interpretations of prosperity and quest narratives in ancient traditions.

Symbolic References

In the , the story of Gideon's fleece appears in Judges 6:36-40, where the Israelite leader places a wool fleece on the and prays for to condense on it alone while the surrounding ground remains dry, followed by the reverse the next night. This narrative, confirmed by divine response in both instances, symbolizes the seeking of tangible signs from God to affirm His will and guidance in uncertain times. In heraldry and European folklore, the served as a prominent through the , established on January 10, 1430, by , , during celebrations for his marriage to in . This chivalric , limited to 24 knights plus the sovereign, symbolized loyalty, nobility, and the defense of , with the fleece depicted as a golden ram's skin suspended from a , influencing coats of arms and insignia across Burgundian and later Habsburg territories. The phrase "" has entered idiomatic English to denote an elusive or highly coveted goal worth great effort, directly evoking the perilous mythological quest for the artifact as a for ambitious pursuits that promise immense reward but demand extraordinary trials. Similarly, "fleecing" refers to swindling or defrauding someone of their money or possessions, a figurative extension from the literal act of shearing a sheep's , first attested in the 1570s to describe stripping assets through deceit. In modern literature, the fleece motif recurs as a symbol of and , notably in William Morris's epic poem The Life and Death of Jason (1867), a Victorian retelling of the Argonaut legend where the embodies material riches and the transformative power of heroic endeavor, rendered in Morris's vivid, pre-Raphaelite style emphasizing chromatic . In visual art, fleece imagery—particularly the golden variant—represents through its association with prized treasures, as seen in jewelry and , while white fleece evokes purity and spiritual refinement, appearing in allegorical works as a of and divine favor.

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