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Side cap

A side cap is a foldable cap with straight sides and a creased or hollow crown that slopes to the back, where it is parted. It can be folded flat for storage when not worn. Known by various names including garrison cap or flight cap in the and in the , it originated in the early and has been adopted by armed forces worldwide, with later influences in uniforms and .

Description and Design

Physical Characteristics

The side cap features a foldable that permits it to lie flat against the head when worn or be folded compactly for storage, consisting of a stiffened body with straight sides and a creased or sloping toward the back. It typically incorporates a one-piece turned up on the outside, forming tapered ends that at the front with an overlap on the right side, creating one or two pointed ends. This elongated, envelope-like shape, derived from 19th-century forage caps, sets it apart from peaked caps, which include a rigid bill for shade, and berets, which are soft and circular without structured points. Standard dimensions for the side cap include an inside circumference of 20 to 26½ inches to accommodate various head sizes, with the crown height measuring 3¼ inches at the front, 4½ inches at the center, and 4 inches at the back; the curtain height is 2½ inches at the front and 3 inches at the back. The overlap measures about 4⅝ inches for secure closure. The fit is adjustable through the curtain's overlap, often supplemented by an internal sweatband 1 to 1½ inches wide, ensuring a snug yet comfortable positioning without distortion. Insignia on the side cap is typically positioned as a small or pin on the front fold or left side, centered 1 to 2 inches from the front crease and 1½ inches from the bottom edge, to denote or . Optional may run along the edges to indicate or distinctions, enhancing visibility while maintaining the cap's streamlined profile. The cap is worn tilted to one side, with the front crease aligned parallel to the ground for a balanced, non-obstructive fit.

Materials and Construction

The side cap is typically made from a or polyester-wool blend fabric, often in weights around 10 ounces per , with colors varying by standards. It includes an interlining such as foam laminated with or for stiffness in the crown and sides. A fabric sweatband, usually polyester or , provides comfort, while a polyester lining protects the interior. Construction features a three-piece crown with a , a one-piece with double-needle stitching along edges, and secure overlaps at the back. Stitching follows specifications, such as 10-14 stitches per inch for durability.

History

Origins

The side cap's design traces its roots to early 19th-century European military headwear, particularly the and , which were developed for infantry practicality during extended campaigns such as the . French soldiers during the Revolutionary and Napoleonic periods improvised the bonnet de police, a simple cloth cap made from repurposed coat material, serving as an off-duty or fatigue alternative to more formal headgear like the bicorn hat or early . This cap emphasized portability and ease of wear, allowing troops to fold it away when not in use, and by 1812, it had evolved into a standardized pattern for elite units. In the , forage caps were regulated as early as 1811 for off-duty and barracks wear, providing a lightweight option to the cumbersome required for parades and combat, thus influencing the shift toward functional, foldable designs across European forces. Key developments occurred in the 1830s through 1850s, as armies sought alternatives to full-dress helmets and shakos for everyday and field service. A predecessor to the kepi emerged in the in the 1830s during colonial campaigns in as the lightweight casquette d'Afrique, with the first proper stiffened, visored kepi model (bonnet de police à visière) introduced in 1852 for campaigns and off-duty wear, and adopted widely for metropolitan service by the mid-19th century as a practical replacement for heavier headwear, with its shallow crown enhancing comfort in hot climates. Forage caps had been in use in the since the early , with peaked variants developing in the mid-19th century for , prioritizing mobility over ceremonial rigidity during operations in and other colonies. In the United States, the first foldable versions appeared as kepis during the era, authorized in 1858 regulations and influenced by French chasseur patterns; these dark blue wool caps, with a low front crown rising to the rear and leather visor, were issued to all enlisted men as a fatigue alternative to the 1851 , proving essential for the demands of prolonged marches. The side cap's form also drew initial parallels from civilian working-class headwear in and trades, where portability was paramount. caps originated with units tasked with gathering horse feed—hence the name—mirroring the simple, packable cloth caps worn by laborers and sailors for protection against weather without hindering labor. This emphasis on functionality carried over into adaptations, blending utilitarian influences with service needs. The design's global spread began in the 1800s through colonial armies, where European powers standardized lightweight caps for troops in overseas territories, laying the groundwork for broader military adoption. British forces in during the 1857 Mutiny relied on forage caps alongside shakos for their versatility in tropical conditions, while French colonial units in integrated the kepi into routine wear by mid-century, disseminating the style to allied and imperial forces worldwide.

Evolution in the 20th Century

The side cap evolved significantly in the , transitioning from 19th-century forage caps to more standardized, flat-foldable designs suited for . During , the introduced the Field Service Cap (FSC) in 1902, a soft, that could be folded and worn on the side, replacing bulkier for conditions; this design influenced forces. In , the Feldmütze or side cap emerged around 1910 for , featuring a flat crown and adjustable strap, becoming standard in the by 1915 for its compactness. Interwar periods saw further refinements: the U.S. Army adopted the garrison cap in 1926 as an overseas cap, derived from WWI influences, while European armies like and standardized side caps for parade and field use. accelerated adoption, with the U.S. M1943 garrison cap and British Army's peaked variants emphasizing and portability; Soviet forces used the pilotka side cap from . Post-WWII, standardization promoted the side cap as undress headwear, influencing non-military fashion by the 1950s.

Military Use in Europe

France

In the French military tradition, the side cap is known as the bonnet de police, with roots tracing back to the as a simple rest cap fashioned from surplus cloth, such as trouser legs, formalized in the 1767 regulations distinguishing between foot and mounted troops. By the early , it evolved into a pointed, high-crowned under the and regulations, often featuring a or floche added after for decorative purposes. This form persisted until the 1870s, when it was temporarily replaced by the under the Third Republic in 1874; however, it was reformed into a more practical foldable by the late 1880s and officially reintroduced in 1891 as a campaign cap for , extending to all by 1897. Key variants of the bonnet de police emerged based on branch, with blue cloth for units and red for , often accented by branch-specific piping or like grenades or horns. During , it saw widespread adoption among French forces, including colonial troops and the , in practical materials like mustard-colored from 1915 and later the blue horizon shade, serving as an off-duty and interior service cap. In , the Legion and colonial units continued its use, with models in green or red fabrics featuring unit emblems, even among Free French Forces and resistance groups, where it symbolized continuity amid wartime shortages. Today, the bonnet de police retains a ceremonial role in undress uniforms, reinstated by Instruction n°10300 in 2005 for traditional purposes across select units. The French Gendarmerie has never fully abandoned it, incorporating modern synthetic versions since the 1990s for daily and . Specific regiments, such as the , continue to wear a variant with a yellow hunting horn , evoking pre-1936 traditions. Distinct features include remnants of tassels from earlier models, optional chinstraps for stability, and passepoils denoting rank or unit, preserving its historical silhouette in contemporary contexts.

Germany

In the German military, the side cap, known as the Feldmütze, was introduced in the 1930s for the . The M34/38 overseas cap served as an early field headdress, while the Einheitsfeldmütze M43, adopted in June 1943, became standard for all ranks as a practical, foldable alternative to the , featuring a soft peak and side-mounted insignia. Constructed from field-grey wool, it was widely used on all fronts during , including by and Panzer crews for its compactness. Post-war, variants persisted in the as garrison caps until the 1990s, when berets largely replaced them, though ceremonial uses remain in select units as of 2025.

Italy

The bustina, a soft side cap with a folded-up front bill, was introduced in as part of the Baistrocchi uniform reform under Benito Mussolini's fascist regime, serving as the primary field headgear for the Royal Italian Army (Regio Esercito) and the Italian Royal Air Force (). This adoption marked a shift from earlier kepis and peaked caps, aligning with the regime's emphasis on modernized, practical military attire for . By the mid-1930s, it had become standard issue for , , and other branches, reflecting 's preparations for expansionist campaigns. Typically constructed from grigio-verde (grey-green) wool, the bustina featured branch-specific colored piping along the edges—such as black for , red for , and green for alpine troops—to denote unit affiliation, with a fabric chinstrap and internal adjustment strap for fit. It was designed for versatility in the field, allowing the side panels to unfold for ear protection in cold weather. During the Second (1935–1936) and subsequent operations in (1940–1943), the bustina saw widespread use among Italian forces, providing lightweight coverage in desert and highland environments amid campaigns like the conquest of and defenses against Allied advances in and . A unique variant with a pointed end was employed by alpine troops (), adapting the design for conditions. Following , the bustina was gradually phased out in the during the 1950s uniform reforms, supplanted by the as the standard field headgear to align with influences and emphasize unit specialization—such as green for and black for armored units. However, it experienced a revival in the (Italy's ) by the early 2000s for ceremonial and historical parades, preserving fascist-era traditions in select dress uniforms after the force's independence from the Army in 2000.

Norway

In Norway, the side cap has seen limited but specialized adoption within the armed forces, primarily for its practicality in cold climates. Known as the båtlue (literally "boat cap") in the Royal Norwegian Air Force and gardelue in the , it was introduced in the early as part of uniform reforms emphasizing functionality in harsh weather, aligning with broader European air force trends toward lightweight, foldable headgear. During , the båtlue appeared in the uniforms of resistance groups such as , the military underground organization, particularly during the 1945 liberation efforts against German occupation. Post-war, it became a standard element of undress uniforms in the Royal Norwegian Air Force, often featuring wings badges for officers. Older variants were adapted with fur linings to provide insulation in conditions, reflecting Norway's northern operational environment. In modern usage, the Royal Norwegian Air Force employs a blue båtlue embroidered with the Norwegian coat of arms, worn by pilots primarily in ceremonial contexts since the , while the gardelue remains a garrison option for the royal guards during non-parade duties.

Portugal

In the Portuguese armed forces, the side cap is designated as the barrete de bivaque. The Portuguese Army adopted a curved model during the early as part of uniform reforms following the establishment of the First Republic, drawing influences from contemporary European designs for practical field wear. During the in from the to the , the barrete de bivaque was a standard component of campaign uniforms, initially in or , later transitioning to grey twill for general use. variants, such as the barrete 2-C inspired by models and featuring patterned fabric for concealment, were issued for and extended to broader troop deployments by , enhancing adaptability in tropical environments. In modern usage as of the 2019 Regulamento de Uniformes do Exército (RUE), the Army's barrete de bivaque—typically in green fabric—is authorized for (Uniform No. 3a), (Uniform No. 3b), and (Uniform No. 4) attire across all ranks, serving as lightweight undress . The Portuguese Air Force's 2023 Regulamento de Uniformes (RUFA) specifies a barrete in fabric with a round pala, cylindrical sides, flat top, and rear Velcro adjustment for and uniforms, while a blue bivaque variant with flaps and is used in ceremonial and service contexts. Naval versions feature blue fabric and may include an optional bill for durability in maritime settings. This headgear remains in special forces undress uniforms as of 2025, reflecting post-colonial adaptations for operational flexibility.

Russia/Soviet Union

The side cap, known in Russian as the pilotka, was introduced to the in 1918 as part of the equipment for pilots, from which the name derives, and quickly became a standard field headdress during the . Its design includes a peaked front fold specifically for displaying branch and rank markings, allowing for easy folding and storage when not in use. Standardization of the pilotka occurred in 1935 via Order No. 176 of the People's Commissar of Defense of the USSR, which established it as official headgear for the and , with variations in fabric and color to suit different services. During , a khaki-colored version was prominently worn by Soviet pilots as part of their summer uniform, complementing the practical needs of aviation personnel on the Eastern Front. In the post-Soviet era, the pilotka persists in the , notably in blue for the and white or light variants for paratroopers (), reflecting its enduring role in airborne and aviation units. It features in ceremonial contexts, such as on Moscow's , where it symbolizes military heritage and has been observed in use through 2025.

Serbia/Yugoslavia

The side cap's history in and traces back to the , a traditional introduced in 1870 as part of the uniform for the Serbian national army under a royal decree. This cap, named after the šajkaši river troops, featured a distinctive boat-like shape viewed from above and served as both a and headwear, symbolizing Serbian identity during the of Serbia's push for independence. By the early 20th century, it remained standard for common soldiers in , often topped with a royal monogram for officers, though it began evolving amid broader Balkan military influences. In the 1940s, amid , the side cap adapted into the , a green wool garrison cap emblematic of the ' resistance against occupation. Named after , the —modeled loosely on the Soviet pilotka—included a badge on the front, either embroidered or enameled, and was produced in field green serge for practicality in . Historical variants of the šajkača and early partisan caps often incorporated embroidered ethnic motifs, such as floral patterns or regional symbols, reflecting Balkan influences in military attire. During the , the persisted as the official headgear of the , maintaining its wool construction and insignia across branches. Post-1990s, following Yugoslavia's dissolution, the side cap experienced a revival in Serbian forces, notably with the uniform modernization presented by the , which reincorporated elements of traditional designs for ceremonial and operational use. Modern ground forces employ olive green side caps, akin to the style, for everyday and field duties, emphasizing durability and national heritage. The šajkača, in particular, endures as a cultural symbol in Serbian independence parades, such as those marking Statehood Day on , where it represents resilience and ethnic pride.

Spain

In Spain, the side cap, known as the gorro de cuartel or chapirí, was adopted by the in 1920 as a distinctive and headdress, crafted from green fabric with a (borla roja) to symbolize the unit's identity. This design drew from earlier 19th-century precedents like the Isabellina cap but was tailored for the 's elite status during the campaigns in . The cap's fold-down side panels and embroidered featuring a and cross enhanced its ceremonial role, maintaining a structured shape through internal stiffening elements common in variants. During the (1936–1939), the gorro de cuartel remained a standard item for troops on the Nationalist side, paired with uniforms and used in combat alongside parades to foster . Its practicality extended to later African operations, including the campaigns of the 1950s–1970s, where adapted versions with protective covers were worn by the Sahariano amid desert conditions, underscoring the cap's enduring ceremonial and functional persistence in Spanish forces. Postwar, it symbolized tradition in settings. In modern usage, the cap saw reintroduction in for the National Police Corps' unit via a Dirección General de la Policía resolution, replacing prior to evoke historical ties while serving in ceremonial duties. Similarly, the Air Force employs a gorro cuartelero in undress and daily uniforms, featuring green piping and the service emblem for indoor and service wear.

Sweden

In the Swedish Armed Forces, the side cap, known as båtmössa (boat cap), was introduced in 1939 as the m/1939 model for the , matching the field uniform color in gray wool for practicality in field and garrison use. It featured a foldable design with branch insignia on the front. The adopted a similar m/1948 variant for undress uniforms. During neutrality, it served as standard headdress for conscripts. Post-war, the m/1960 garrison cap replaced it in some contexts but retained the side cap style for daily wear. As of 2025, it remains in use for ceremonial and training purposes across branches, emphasizing functionality in Nordic climates.

Turkey

In the , the side cap was adopted in the as part of the post-Ottoman modernization reforms that emphasized Western-style attire following the 1925 Hat Law banning traditional headwear like the fez. Branch-specific colors for the side cap and related distinguish corps, with enlisted personnel wearing corps-colored tabs on the cap and lapels; for instance, green denotes , dark blue , black armor, and light blue signals. The army's standard uniforms, often paired with the side cap, feature drab for winter and for summer, while the uses black for winter and white for summer , and the employs blue overall. Historically, Turkish forces in the (1950–1953) relied on British-supplied II-era battledress and helmets rather than side caps for combat operations. In modern usage, the side cap remains part of service uniforms suited to the , typically constructed from lightweight cotton blends for breathability in warmer conditions.

United Kingdom

The side cap in the traces its origins to 19th-century traditions, evolving from the cap, which was authorized in 1852 for and Scottish regiments and extended to all as undress headwear by 1874. This traditional bonnet-style cap gave way to more practical designs, culminating in the field service cap—a foldable, side-mounted variant introduced in 1902 as part of the khaki service dress uniform to suit modern field conditions. During , the field service cap became standard issue for , providing lightweight protection while allowing it to be stowed easily in pockets or packs. Upon the formation of the Royal Air Force in 1918, the side cap was adopted in a distinctive fabric to distinguish the new service from khaki, serving as everyday undress headwear with a peaked or soft-top variant for officers. In , the side cap solidified as the standard undress item across all three armed services, worn with battledress for combat and off-duty roles; officers typically affixed a gilt or embroidered to the left side for identification. In the , the side cap remains in use within the Royal Air Force for officers' No. 1 service dress and mess functions, constructed from fine wool with internal stiffening wire or to preserve its angled shape, as specified in regulations up to 2025. It is also retained by Army cadets in the and similar youth organizations for ceremonial purposes, maintaining its role in drill and formal parades. Specific to the RAF, variants include piping along the edges to denote flying qualifications.

Military Use in the Commonwealth

Australia

In the (RAAF), the side cap—commonly referred to as the garrison cap—was introduced during as a standard component of the service uniform, constructed from blue wool or fabric with light blue piping along the edges for officers to denote rank distinction. This headwear draws from British heritage but incorporates localized Australian elements, including an oxidized brass eagle insignia affixed to the left-side fold for identification. The garrison cap serves exclusively within RAAF uniforms and is not adopted by the Australian Army or , limiting its role to personnel across the Australian Defence Force. It is designated for undress and service dress contexts, providing a compact, foldable alternative to peaked caps during non-ceremonial duties. Contemporary RAAF garrison caps for enlisted ranks feature a solid blue design without , maintaining the traditional insignia while aligning with updated standards. Officers retain the light blue variant for formal service wear.

Canada

In the Canadian Army, the field service cap, a form of side cap, was utilized in rifle green for undress purposes by rifle regiments, such as the , prior to and during the Second World War. This variant served as an off-duty headdress, replacing earlier patterns and aligning with regimental traditions, though it transitioned to wool for active service in 1941. Coloured field service caps, including rifle green for rifle units like the Rifles, were authorized for private purchase under 1943 War Dress Regulations to denote corps or regimental identity during undress wear. The Royal Canadian adopted the blue wedge cap in the early 1940s as part of its working dress uniform, matching the blue-grey service attire introduced at the outset of the . Officers' versions featured gold-coloured insignia, such as the RCAF badge with and eagle elements, often in brass or embroidered form, to denote rank and branch affiliation. This cap remained a standard headdress for air personnel through the and post-unification era, with the retaining it despite the broader shift to rifle green uniforms in 1968. In modern usage, side cap variants incorporate camouflage patterns for operational environments across both army and branches, enhancing concealment in temperate woodland or arid regions as part of the disruptive pattern uniforms issued since 1997. Ceremonial applications persist in reserve units, where the wedge cap or field service cap is worn with undress orders as of 2025, adhering to current dress instructions. A distinguishing feature across these caps is the use of embroidered rank slips or on the side fold, typically in high-visibility or branch-specific colours like pearl-grey for officers, to clearly display hierarchy without obstructing functionality.

Military Use in North America

United States

The garrison cap, a foldable side cap, was authorized for U.S. military personnel in January 1941 as part of uniform updates, initially for Naval Aviators and chief petty officers pilots in colors matching service attire such as blue, white, khaki, or forestry green, and it gradually replaced earlier overseas cap designs across branches for practical, everyday wear. This authorization aligned with pre-World War II preparations, leading to its mass adoption during the war for its compact storage and versatility in field and garrison settings. During , branch-specific variants of the cap incorporated distinctive colors to denote service affiliation. For example, the used branch colors such as light blue for , while the Marine Corps used scarlet piping on its olive-green cap, the gold for officers, the white, and the Air Forces ultramarine blue. In modern usage as of 2025, the cap is worn with service uniforms across branches, such as the Green Service Uniform and Service Dress, without branch . It remains in use for ceremonial and settings. All ranks wear appropriate on the cap according to branch-specific regulations, such as grade centered on the left side.

Non-Military Uses

Civil and Uniform Applications

The side cap, known variously as the garrison cap or flight cap, has found extensive use in non-military uniforms among youth organizations and service groups. In the United States, the (CAP), a civilian auxiliary of the U.S. Air Force focused on education and emergency services, incorporates the flight cap as standard headgear for cadet uniforms, worn with service dress to instill discipline and uniformity among young participants. Similarly, the (BSA) adopted the garrison cap in 1943 as an official alternative to the , using it through the 1970s for Explorer and senior scout programs to evoke a sense of adventure and preparedness in training. Veterans' organizations have also embraced the side cap for ceremonial and organizational wear. The , chartered in 1919, introduced a blue overseas cap—essentially a side cap variant—in the 1920s, drawing from doughboy attire to symbolize post-war camaraderie and service among members. This tradition persists, with specialized manufacturers producing Legion-specific caps for parades and meetings, emphasizing the hat's role in fostering community and remembrance. In , the side cap appears in auxiliary uniforms, particularly in historical and regional contexts. German Gemeindepolizei (local ) auxiliaries utilized side caps in steel blue cotton during the mid-20th century, featuring fold-down panels and official for patrol and community duties. U.S. security personnel occasionally adopt similar garrison-style caps for private firms, though baseball caps dominate modern use; however, auxiliary groups in the post-World War II era incorporated side caps to align with quasi-military protocols. Globally, colonial influences extended the side cap to youth groups in former territories, such as scout organizations indirectly through uniform evolutions, though berets largely replaced them post-independence. In contemporary applications, customizable side caps have gained popularity for and s, with vendors offering leather and wool variants embroidered for specific eras or characters. Sales of such apparel reached an estimated $1.5 billion globally in the historical reenactment market in 2024, reflecting sustained demand through 2025 for authentic reproductions in hobbyist communities.

Cultural and Fashion Influence

The side cap has become a recurring symbol in , particularly in portrayals of World War II-era military life, evoking themes of camaraderie and historical authenticity. In the miniseries (2001), U.S. Army paratroopers from Easy Company are frequently depicted wearing garrison caps—another name for the side cap—during training, combat, and downtime scenes, accurately reflecting their standard issue headwear in the European theater. This representation contributed to the cap's association with vintage military chic, influencing later media that romanticizes mid-20th-century soldier aesthetics. In civilian fashion, the side cap experienced adoption within the 1960s mod subculture in the United Kingdom, where youth embraced sharp, tailored looks often drawing from military surplus for an air of sophistication and rebellion. Mods incorporated various fitted hats, including military-style side caps, to complement slim suits and scooters, blending postwar utility with emerging youth trends. By the 2020s, streetwear brands revived the style, with Supreme releasing embroidered military camp caps—a close civilian variant of the side cap—in collections like Spring/Summer 2021, featuring graphic details that appealed to urban fashion enthusiasts seeking nostalgic military motifs. Symbolically, the side cap serves as a marker of service and remembrance in veterans' events, often worn by former soldiers during parades to honor sacrifices. In the United States, it appears in Memorial Day observances of the 2010s, such as ceremonies where Vietnam-era veterans don military headgear adorned with pins to commemorate fallen comrades. Globally, the side cap influences media beyond Western contexts. In post-2000s Japanese anime, military characters frequently wear side cap variants, as seen in Mobile Suit Gundam 0080: War in the Pocket (1989, with sequels and adaptations continuing into the 2000s), where Zeon forces don mountain caps—foldable side-style headwear—for tactical operations. Similarly, in Indian Bollywood films, the side cap features in military tropes depicting Indian Army personnel, such as in war dramas like Border (1997) and LOC Kargil (2003), where it underscores disciplined heroism amid border conflicts.

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