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Boater

A boater, also known as a canotier or skimmer, is a stiff-brimmed straw hat featuring a flat crown, straight narrow brim, and typically a ribbon hatband, designed primarily as semi-formal summer headwear for both men and women.^[1]^[2] Originating in mid-19th-century Britain, likely in Luton, Bedfordshire—a longstanding center for straw plaiting and hat-making since the 1600s—the boater evolved from earlier sailors' hats and was initially crafted for holidays and summer sports such as boating and rowing.^[2] By the 1880s, it had gained widespread fashion appeal for informal town wear, pairing with lounge suits, and was adopted across social classes without distinction, from urban professionals to schoolboys.^[1] Its peak popularity occurred in the 1890s and early 1900s, when it symbolized leisurely elegance and became a staple for activities like tennis, cycling, and picnics; women embraced it for sporty ensembles, while men wore it in city settings after overcoming initial taboos against straw hats with formal attire.^[1]^[2] Constructed from plaited wheat straw for durability and breathability, the hat's oval shape and elastic sizing allowed for practical use, though its production strained straw supplies during the "straw hat boom" of the 1890s.^[1] Post-World War I, the boater's dominance waned in favor of alternatives like the Panama hat, but it endured in cultural contexts such as vaudeville performances, barbershop quartets, and British public school uniforms, and continues to appear at events like the Henley Royal Regatta for its nostalgic, riverside formality.^[2]

Etymology

Origin of the Name

The term "boater" for the stiff, flat-brimmed straw hat emerged in English in the late 19th century, specifically denoting a headwear suitable for wear during boating activities. According to etymological records, the word "boater" first appeared around 1896, directly derived from "boat" to emphasize its association with nautical pursuits rather than general straw hats.^[3] Earlier variants like "boat hat" were documented as early as 1889 in British contexts, highlighting the hat's practical role in rowing and sailing among English-speaking communities, with the style and early terminology gaining traction by the 1880s.^[4] The hat's naming conventions trace back to European influences, particularly the French "canotier," which referred to the straw hats worn by gondoliers in Venice and rowers along the Seine. The French term "canotier" evolved from "canot," meaning a small boat or canoe, combined with the suffix "-ier" indicating a wearer or user, thus linking the hat to those engaged in boating.^[5] This etymological root extends further to the Spanish "canoa," borrowed from the Arawak language's "canaoa" or "kanowa," an indigenous term for a dugout canoe used by Caribbean peoples, thereby connecting the hat's name indirectly to small watercraft traditions.^[6]^[7] By the 1890s, the English "boater" had gained traction in both British and American usage, distinguishing it from broader straw hat terminology through its explicit nautical connotation, often tied to summer boating attire for men.^[4] This evolution underscored the hat's role in leisurely and sporting water activities, solidifying its identity beyond mere sun protection. The boater hat, a stiff straw headwear with a flat crown and brim, shares nomenclature with several synonymous terms that highlight its construction, usage, or regional adaptations. In American English, it is commonly referred to as a "skimmer," a term that evokes the imagery of skimming across water, aligning with its origins in boating culture.^[8] Similarly, "sennit hat" emphasizes the hat's traditional fabrication from sennit straw, a flat-braided cordage derived from plant fibers like wheat or rice, distinguishing it from softer woven straw varieties.^[9] Other colloquial synonyms include "basher" and "sailor," often used interchangeably in vintage fashion contexts to denote the same rigid, semi-formal summer style.^[8] In European languages, the boater connects to broader straw hat traditions while maintaining specific distinctions. The French term "canotier" directly denotes the boater, originating from the 19th-century Parisian rowing clubs along the Seine where it was worn, and it differentiates from the more general "chapeau de paille," which encompasses any straw hat without implying the structured, flat-topped form.^[10] In Italy, precursors to the boater appear as the "canotier" or gondolier's hat, a variant worn by Venetian boaters with a similar stiff straw build and ribbon detail, setting it apart from looser straw designs like the panama. Contemporary fashion terminology often specifies "straw boater" to clarify its material and shape, particularly in menswear catalogs, where it contrasts with the creased crown and felt construction of the fedora or the finely woven, pliable toquilla straw of the panama hat.^[8] This precision helps delineate the boater's nautical formality from these other brimmed styles, ensuring its recognition as a distinct category in modern millinery.^[11]

Design and Materials

Physical Characteristics

The boater hat is characterized by its flat-topped crown, which measures typically 3 to 4 inches in height and features a straight-sided oval shape without any creases or indentations.^[1] This design contributes to the hat's structured, block-like silhouette, distinguishing it from more tapered or curved crown styles in other headwear.^[8] The brim is flat, stiff, and uncurled, with a standard width of 2 to 2.5 inches, providing uniform protection from the sun around the entire perimeter.^[12] This even, rigid edge maintains the hat's crisp appearance and prevents flopping, enhancing its practicality for warm-weather use.^[13] Encircling the base of the crown is a grosgrain ribbon band, usually in black or a contrasting color to the straw body, which adds a refined, semi-formal touch to the overall aesthetic.^[1] The band often includes a small bow or emblem at the side or front, serving both decorative and functional purposes by securing the hat's shape.^[8] Traditionally crafted from straw, this combination of elements yields a lightweight yet durable form suitable for semi-formal summer attire.^[12]

Construction and Variations

The boater hat is primarily constructed from sennit straw, a braided material derived from natural fibers such as wheat or rye straw, which is split into uniform splints and woven into a stiff, lightweight structure using plaiting techniques.^[14] These plaits typically involve 3 to 7 strands sewn in flat or spiral braids, creating a durable yet breathable form that maintains the hat's characteristic rigidity.^[14] Toquilla palm fibers, used in finer weaves for Panama-style boaters, offer a similar lightweight quality but with enhanced suppleness due to the plant's natural flexibility.^[15] The manufacturing process begins with braiding the straw into hoods or plaits, which are then sewn together in a spiral pattern starting from the crown center to form the basic shape.^[14] These hoods are subsequently blocked on wooden forms using steam and pressure—often hydraulic presses for boaters—to achieve the flat crown and straight brim, ensuring a precise, unyielding structure.^[14] Stiffening follows, typically by soaking the plait in a gelatine bath or applying shellac dissolved in alcohol via brush, which hardens the straw while preserving its porosity; excess solution is sponged off before drying.^[14] Final trimming involves attaching a grosgrain ribbon band around the crown, often with a bow on the left side, and adding an inner sweatband of leather or satin for comfort.^[8] Variations in boater construction adapt the traditional design for different aesthetics and durabilities, such as incorporating colored straws dyed in hues like beige or cream for subtle visual interest while retaining the plaiting method.^[16] Modern iterations replace natural sennit with synthetic alternatives like paper straw (Toyo), a shellacked rice paper braid that mimics straw's texture but offers greater resistance to moisture and wear.^[17]

History

European Origins

The boater hat emerged in the mid-19th century in Britain, particularly in Luton, Bedfordshire—a longstanding center for straw plaiting and hat-making since the 1600s—evolving from practical straw hats worn by sailors and laborers to shield themselves from the sun.^[2]^[1] This utilitarian headwear, crafted from lightweight straw for breathability and durability in humid conditions, served workers by providing essential protection during long hours of labor under intense sunlight.^[18] The design's flat crown and stiff brim allowed for easy handling in confined boat spaces, establishing its core form as a functional accessory tied to waterways.^[19] In the 1870s, the hat gained traction in Britain through the use of fine sennit straw, which enabled local hatters to produce more refined versions suitable for recreational pursuits. Adapted for use by rowing clubs along the River Thames, the boater transitioned from a working-class tool to a symbol of leisurely boating, with members of elite groups like those at Henley adopting it for regattas and outings.^[20] The sennit, a plaited straw known for its strength and fine weave, was shellacked for stiffness, enhancing the hat's shape retention during active water sports.^[21] This adaptation marked a pivotal shift, elevating the boater's status among Britain's emerging middle and upper classes engaged in organized rowing.^[22] By the early 1880s, the boater had spread across continental Europe to France and Germany, where it became favored summer attire for the bourgeoisie seeking stylish yet practical headwear for outdoor leisure.^[21] In France, artists like Pierre-Auguste Renoir depicted it in paintings of social scenes along the Seine, highlighting its role in bourgeois pastimes such as boating excursions.^[23] German adopters similarly embraced the hat for garden parties and riverside activities, appreciating its formal yet ventilated appeal.^[24] Early European designs often featured looser, flowing ribbons compared to the tighter grosgrain bands of later iterations, allowing for a more relaxed aesthetic suited to the era's informal elegance.^[1]

Adoption and Peak Popularity

The boater hat experienced a significant surge in popularity from the 1890s through the 1920s, becoming a staple of summer fashion in both the United Kingdom and the United States. Initially embraced by British university students for boating and leisure activities, it quickly spread to American Ivy League campuses, where it symbolized collegiate spirit and casual elegance during regattas and social events.^[25] By the early 1900s, the hat had been adopted by barbershop quartets and vaudeville performers as an iconic accessory, enhancing their harmonious, nostalgic aesthetic, while businessmen favored it as standard warm-weather headwear paired with linen suits for urban and seaside outings.^[8]^[26] This boom reflected broader cultural shifts toward informal summer attire, with the boater's lightweight straw construction ideal for yachting, tennis, and promenades.^[27] Key figures amplified the boater's visibility and appeal during this period. In the United States, President Theodore Roosevelt popularized the style through public appearances, notably wearing a boater with a white linen suit during his 1906 inspection tour of the Panama Canal, which cemented its association with adventurous, outdoorsy masculinity.^[28] In the United Kingdom, Edwardian dandies integrated the boater into their refined ensembles, often with striped blazers and canes, embodying the era's blend of leisure and sophistication.^[29] Mass production fueled this widespread adoption; in Luton, England—the epicenter of British straw hat manufacturing—over 500 factories operated by the late 19th century, with production reaching tens of millions of hats annually by the early 20th century, many of which were boaters destined for export.^[30] Similarly, in New York, firms like the Knox Hat Company in Brooklyn scaled up output in the early 1900s, contributing to the widespread availability of boaters in the U.S.^[25] Women's embrace of the boater in the 1910s and 1920s marked a departure from ornate millinery, aligning with progressive social changes. As suffrage activists marched for voting rights, many donned simplified straw boaters—often in neutral tones with minimal trim—to project practicality and equality, echoing the masculine styles of their male counterparts. By the 1920s, flappers adapted the hat for casual outings, pairing it with dropped-waist dresses and bobbed hair to evoke youthful modernity and liberation from Victorian constraints.^[31] This adoption symbolized women's evolving roles, transforming the boater from a gendered boating accessory into a unisex emblem of the era's forward-looking ethos.^[32]

Decline in the Mid-20th Century

The Straw Hat Riot of September 1922 in New York City marked an early indicator of growing anti-boater sentiment, particularly among working-class youth who viewed the hats as symbols of upper-class privilege. Gangs of young men enforced an informal seasonal cutoff for straw hats after mid-September by snatching and destroying them, leading to widespread violence that injured dozens and prompted police intervention. This event highlighted class tensions and the rigid social etiquette surrounding boaters, which had been ubiquitous in the 1920s but began to face ridicule and rejection outside elite circles, accelerating their gradual displacement from everyday urban wear.^[33]^[34] World War II exacerbated the boater's decline through widespread fabric and material shortages that curtailed civilian hat production across the Atlantic. In Britain, clothing rationing from 1940 limited access to textiles, including straw and related supplies, forcing manufacturers to prioritize military needs and resulting in simplified, scarce headwear options. Post-war, the shift toward casual fashion in the 1950s further marginalized straw hats like the boater, as fedoras—more versatile for year-round use—and the growing trend of going bare-headed gained prominence amid rising automobile culture and relaxed dress codes. By the decade's end, boaters had largely vanished from daily wardrobes, supplanted by these alternatives that better suited modern, informal lifestyles.^[35]^[36] In Europe, the boater faded progressively by the 1940s amid wartime austerity and evolving social norms that favored practicality over formality. The introduction of synthetic fabrics, such as rayon and early plastics for hat braiding, offered cheaper, more durable alternatives to traditional sennit straw, diminishing the boater's appeal in a resource-strapped era. Despite this, the hat persisted in niche formal boating events, where its nautical origins maintained a ceremonial role among enthusiasts.^[37]^[38]

Cultural Significance

Nautical and Sporting Associations

The boater hat shares stylistic similarities with the canotier, a stiff straw hat traditionally worn by Venetian gondoliers for protection against the sun during their work on the canals.^[39] This practical headwear, featuring a flat crown and brim with a ribbon band, provided shade and safeguarded against water splashes. For detailed origins, see the History section.^[40] In 19th-century Britain, the boater became integral to rowing culture, adopted by oarsmen for similar reasons of sun and splash defense during competitive events.^[41] The Henley Royal Regatta, established in 1839 as a premier rowing competition on the River Thames, exemplifies this association, where participants and spectators alike wore boaters as standard attire for the summer races.^[42] Its lightweight straw construction and rigid form ensured durability in the aquatic environment, making it a staple for regattas emphasizing both functionality and tradition.^[43] By the early 1900s, the boater extended its nautical ties to yachting and sailing, often paired with blazers and flannel trousers to evoke a refined maritime aesthetic at elite events.^[44] This era saw the hat's prominence in leisure boating circles, where it shielded wearers from coastal sun exposure while signaling participation in sophisticated water sports.^[45] The tradition endures in contemporary yachting competitions, where boaters occasionally appear as nods to historical sailing elegance. Beyond direct maritime use, the boater's boating roots contributed to its symbolic adoption in barbershop singing and vaudeville performances, evoking nostalgic associations with leisurely water-based eras of the late 19th and early 20th centuries.^[46] Performers in these entertainment forms incorporated the hat to convey a sense of vintage Americana tied to practical sun protection for boaters.^[47] This layered symbolism reinforced the boater's enduring connection to water-based leisure and performance.^[48] The boater hat served as a key marker of upper-middle-class respectability in the Edwardian era and the Jazz Age, offering a semi-formal summer alternative to the rigid top hat favored by the aristocracy or the utilitarian bowler and flat caps worn by the working classes.^[49] This straw headwear, with its flat crown and ribbon band, evoked leisure and refined outdoor pursuits, distinguishing its wearers as members of the burgeoning professional and business elite who sought to project an air of approachable sophistication without overt ostentation.^[50] In F. Scott Fitzgerald's The Great Gatsby (1925), the novel depicts Jazz Age characters in straw boaters, symbolizing excess and the aspirational identity of the affluent set amid Long Island's social whirl.^[51] For women in the 1920s, the boater became intertwined with themes of empowerment and liberation, as it transitioned from a masculine rowing accessory to a unisex emblem of newfound freedoms in fashion and activity.^[52] Paired with shorter hemlines and sporty attire, it signified women's growing engagement in outdoor leisure and social independence, challenging traditional gender norms by borrowing from men's wardrobes and aligning with the era's flapper ethos of mobility and self-expression.^[45] This shift underscored the boater's role in broader cultural transitions toward gender fluidity in apparel, reflecting how headwear could embody progressive social attitudes. Media portrayals have further cemented the boater's ties to preppy and vintage aesthetics, often evoking era-specific class dynamics and nostalgia. In the 2013 film adaptation of The Great Gatsby, directed by Baz Luhrmann, hundreds of boater hats—sourced from Brooks Brothers—adorn male characters, amplifying the visual opulence of 1920s high society and its underlying tensions of wealth and aspiration.^[53] Such depictions in cinema and theater reinforce the hat's symbolic weight as a shorthand for refined yet carefree elite identity, distinct from more utilitarian or avant-garde styles of the time. In recent years, as of 2025, boaters continue to appear in period dramas and events like the Oxford and Cambridge Boat Race, maintaining their nostalgic appeal.^[54]

Modern Interpretations

Contemporary Usage

In the late 20th and early 21st centuries, the boater hat experienced a revival within preppy fashion circles, often paired with seersucker suits for summer weddings and garden parties to evoke a nautical, relaxed elegance.^[55]^[56] This resurgence aligned with broader interests in vintage-inspired attire, positioning the boater as a staple for warm-weather social events where breathable straw construction provides both style and sun protection.^[57]^[58] By the 2010s, the boater gained traction in hipster trends, appearing in urban street style and festival outfits as a nod to retro aesthetics, with variations in materials and colors adapting the classic form for casual, bohemian looks.^[59]^[60] In professional and leisure contexts, such as horse racing at the Kentucky Derby or music festivals, boaters remain popular for their versatility, often selected in lightweight straw to complement pastel attire or vibrant ensembles.^[61]^[62]^[63] Brands like Lack of Color have contributed to this modern appeal by producing eco-friendly versions from natural raffia and palm fibers, emphasizing sustainable sourcing for summer wear.^[64] Since the 2000s, boater designs have increasingly embraced gender-neutral adaptations, appearing in unisex streetwear collections that prioritize inclusive sizing and minimalist aesthetics over traditional gendered styling.^[65] This shift highlights a focus on sustainability, with contemporary makers incorporating recycled materials like plastic bottles or wool to create durable, environmentally conscious boaters suitable for everyday urban outfits.^[66]^[67]

Traditions and Events

One longstanding tradition associated with the boater hat is Straw Hat Day, observed on May 15 as an unofficial American custom dating back to the early 1900s, when it signaled the seasonal transition from winter felt hats to summer straw varieties like the boater, often marked by promotions encouraging public hat-wearing.^[33]^[34] This practice reflected broader etiquette norms of the era, where wearing straw hats outside the designated May 15 to September 15 period could invite social rebuke or even the infamous "straw hat riots" in cities like New York.^[68] The boater's nautical roots extend into contemporary sporting events, where it remains de rigueur attire for participants and spectators at regattas and boat races. At the annual Henley Royal Regatta in England, established in 1839, the hat is a staple of the formal dress code, paired with blazers and trousers to evoke Edwardian elegance during the five-day competition on the River Thames.^[69] Similarly, the Oxford and Cambridge Boat Race, held since 1829, sees crews and attendees donning striped boater hats as a nod to the event's university traditions and riverside pageantry.^[70] In modern performative contexts, the boater persists through organized events that preserve its cultural legacy. Barbershop quartet competitions, governed by the Barbershop Harmony Society (formerly SPEBSQSA, founded in 1938), frequently feature performers in coordinated boater hats, evoking the harmonious, vintage aesthetic of early 20th-century American music gatherings.^[71]^[72] Vintage fashion weeks, such as those during London Fashion Week, showcase the hat in runway presentations and exhibitions, highlighting its timeless appeal in retro-inspired collections.^[73]

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Mar 30, 2010 · There are a few variations, including boater-style hats made of materials other than straw (cloth boaters with a flower pattern is one popular ...Missing: hipster | Show results with:hipster
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What To Wear: Kentucky Derby fashion and outfits for women & men
Men's Hats: Porkpie, fedora, boater are classics – but new to the mix – Newsboy caps and flat caps. For an edgier, less traditional take. WOMEN. The Kentucky ...
[64]
9 Men's Kentucky Derby Hats for 2025 - Town & Country Magazine
Mar 13, 2025 · 8 Men's Hats That Are Perfect for the Kentucky Derby · Kentucky Derby Straw Boater · Scala Hot Springs · Jeanne Simmons Felt Bowler Hat with Ribbon ...
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https://madebyminga.com/products/woven-straw-boater-hat
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https://connerhats.com/products/sun-shield-boater-hat
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https://www.tentree.com/products/harlow-boater-hat
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https://www.baltimoresun.com/1995/05/16/a-forgotten-tradition-few-observe-straw-hat-day/
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https://www.lockhatters.com/collections/henley-royal-regatta-hats
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A FORGOTTEN TRADITION Few observe Straw Hat Day
straw hats with flat tops and stiff brims — every year. “They bought the ...
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https://www.barbershop.org/about
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The Ultimate Boat Race Fashion Guide: What to Wear for Oxford vs ...
Straw Boater Striped Hat Natural Panama Hat Black Band Classic Color Palettes: Inspired by Tradition. Oxford's deep navy blue and Cambridge's soft sky blue ...<|control11|><|separator|>
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Who We Are | Barbershop Harmony Society
Founded in 1938 as the Society for the Preservation and Encouragement of Barber Shop Quartet Singing in America, Inc. (SPEBSQSA), the Barbershop Harmony ...
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Barbershop in Popular Culture - Houston Tidelanders
Inside the barbershop is a quartet singing. They're all wearing Victorian men's straw boater hats and arm garters. Many images of barbershoppers performing in ...Missing: 1890s- 1920s UK Ivy businessmen
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London Fashion Week Trends: Festival Headwear Will Take A ...
Sep 19, 2015 · It's tricky to find boaters out of season, but if you simply can't wait until Spring, ASOS stock a reclaimed vintage hat that also incorporates ...