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Cravat

A cravat is a neckband or length of fabric worn by men around the neck and tied into a knot, serving as a precursor to the modern necktie and originating from the practical scarves used by Croatian soldiers in the 17th century.^[1]^[2] The cravat's history traces back to the Thirty Years' War (1618–1648), when Croatian mercenaries, known as hrvatski husari or light cavalry, wore knotted linen or silk cloths around their necks for both functional protection and as tokens of affection from loved ones.^[2]^[3] In 1636, King Louis XIII of France employed these Croatian troops during conflicts, becoming enamored with their distinctive neckwear, which he adopted and popularized at court under the name cravate—derived from the French term for Croats, Croates.^[1] This style quickly supplanted the elaborate ruffled collars of the era, spreading from France to England by the late 17th century, where it evolved into various formal iterations tied in elaborate knots.^[1]^[2] Over time, the cravat diversified into subtypes such as the stock (a stiff, band-like version worn by military officers and equestrians) and the ascot (a broader, winged variant popularized in the 19th century for daytime formal wear).^[1] During the French Revolution, black cravats emerged as symbols of mourning and republican ideals, contrasting with the ornate styles of the aristocracy.^[2] In Croatia, the garment—locally called kravata—holds enduring cultural significance as a national emblem, with efforts since the 1990s by organizations like Academia Cravatica to highlight its origins through events such as International Cravat Day on October 18.^[3] Today, cravats remain a staple in weddings, Regency-era reenactments, and certain professional uniforms, embodying a blend of historical utility and sartorial elegance.^[1]

History

Origins in Military Attire

The cravat originated as a practical neckwear item among Croatian mercenaries serving in the French army during the Thirty Years' War (1618–1648). These soldiers, known as hrvatski or Croats, wore scarves made of linen or silk around their necks as part of their traditional military uniform, providing protection against the elements and aiding hygiene in the harsh conditions of warfare.^[4] The first French troop of Croatian cavalry was formed in 1633, arriving in Paris under their vice-roy, and their distinctive neckcloths quickly drew attention for both utility and style.^[4] The term "cravat" derives from the French cravate, which traces back to the word for "Croat" (Hrvat in Croatian), entering French via the German dialect Krawatte (from Kroate, meaning Croat) or Italian cravatta, underscoring its Croatian military roots.^[4]^[5] The earliest documented appearance occurred in 1636 during a military parade for King Louis XIII, where the Croatian cavalry showcased their knotted neckcloths, marking a pivotal moment in the item's introduction to French observers.^[1] In practical terms, these neckcloths served multiple battlefield functions, including wiping sweat to maintain comfort during exertion, bandaging minor wounds for immediate first aid, and aiding identification in battle.^[6]^[7] Soldiers typically tied them using simple square or triangular knots, allowing quick adjustments for utility without elaborate styling.^[4] This utilitarian design distinguished the cravat from earlier European ruffs, emphasizing functionality in the Croatian light cavalry's mobile tactics.

Adoption in European Fashion

The cravat's transition from a military accessory to a staple of aristocratic fashion began in France under King Louis XIV, who in 1667 mandated its use for his Royal Cravattes regiment, inspired by the neckcloths worn by Croatian mercenaries.^[8] These early cravats consisted of long linen strips tied loosely around the neck, often finished with lace ends for distinction.^[8] Louis XIV's adoption elevated the item, as evidenced in royal portraits by Hyacinthe Rigaud, where the king is depicted with elaborate lace cravats accentuating his justaucorps coats, thereby disseminating the style through courtly influence.^[8] By the late 17th century, the cravat had permeated French nobility, evolving into starched linen bands edged with fine lace to symbolize wealth and refinement.^[9] Worn over high-collared shirts, these neckcloths underscored status at Versailles, where courtiers emulated the king's preferences for decorative yet structured attire.^[9] In the 1680s, the style shifted toward rectangular neckcloths of muslin or linen, tied in intricate knots such as bows or loops, allowing for personalized displays of elegance while maintaining a crisp appearance through frequent starching and laundering.^[9] This emphasis on clean, replaceable white linens reflected broader hygiene concerns in Europe, where detachable neckwear facilitated daily changes to promote personal cleanliness.) The cravat's appeal extended to other European courts, particularly England during the Restoration in the 1660s, when Charles II, returning from French exile, introduced it alongside the justaucorps to counter Puritan austerity.^[10] Influenced by his mother's French court and mistress Louise de Kérouaille, Charles popularized lace-trimmed cravats tied in stiff bows, as seen in Peter Lely's portraits, marking a shift toward opulent, French-inspired menswear.^[10] By the 1690s, military exigencies further shaped the style; after the Battle of Steinkirk in 1692, where French officers hastily secured their cravats by twisting and pinning the ends through a coat buttonhole, the "steenkirk" variant emerged as a nonchalant yet refined look adopted across courts.^[11] Early fashion variations included the solitaire, a sleek black silk bow tied simply at the throat for understated formality, and looser draped styles that allowed ends to fall freely, offering alternatives to more rigid knots while preserving the cravat's role as a versatile emblem of gentility.^[12]

Evolution into Modern Neckwear

During the Regency era in early 19th-century England, the cravat underwent a significant simplification, shifting from the elaborate, starched linen styles of the previous century to softer constructions made of fine muslin or silk, often tied in understated knots to emphasize cleanliness and precision over ostentation.^[13] This transformation was largely influenced by George "Beau" Brummell, a prominent dandy who, from the 1800s onward, advocated for simple, neatly tied cravats as part of a broader ethos of refined masculinity, rejecting the excessive ornamentation associated with earlier aristocratic fashion.^[14] Publications such as the 1818 satirical pamphlet Neckclothitania, which illustrated and described 14 distinct methods of tying the cravat—including the "Oriental," "Mathematical," and "Napoleon" knots—reflected the era's fascination with these evolving techniques, codifying them for a growing audience of fashionable gentlemen.^[15] In the mid-19th century, the Industrial Revolution facilitated the mass production of textiles and ready-made garments, enabling the cravat to evolve into more practical forms suited to an increasingly urban and professional lifestyle. By the 1880s, this led to the emergence of the four-in-hand tie, a narrower, elongated strip of fabric tied in a simple asymmetrical knot, originally popularized among coach drivers but quickly adopted for everyday wear as a less formal alternative to the bulkier cravat.^[16] Concurrently, the ascot—a broader, winged variant pinned at the neck—gained prominence in the 1880s, named after its debut at the Royal Ascot Races, where it served as a stylish, daytime option for equestrian events and social gatherings.^[17] Key adaptations included the black cravat's role as standard mourning attire after the 1830s, symbolizing solemnity in Victorian society, while the bow tie appeared as a formal derivative around 1886, with early patents for adjustable, self-tying versions reflecting innovations in convenience.^[18] By the 1920s, the cravat had been largely supplanted by slimmer, versatile neckties in mainstream fashion, though it persisted in formal variants like the ascot for ceremonial and equestrian contexts.^[19] The cravat's global dissemination during this period was propelled by British colonial and cultural influence, particularly in the Americas, where 19th-century elites adopted simplified versions through trade and immigration, integrating them into urban professional attire by the mid-1800s.^[20] In military contexts, such as during the Napoleonic Wars (1803–1815), cravats played minor roles in officer uniforms across European armies, often as white linen stocks providing a neat, hierarchical contrast to colorful coats, though they were secondary to functional scarves in combat.^[21]

Types and Styles

Day Cravats

The day cravat is a wide, rectangular strip of silk or cotton fabric, typically measuring 45–55 inches in length, designed for casual everyday wear around the neck.^[22] Unlike more structured neckwear, it is tied in a loose four-in-hand or simple knot and left untucked to allow for natural movement and comfort.^[23] Key characteristics of the day cravat include its soft, flowing drape that provides a relaxed aesthetic, often featuring subtle patterns such as paisley or fine stripes to add understated elegance without overpowering the ensemble.^[24] It is commonly worn with open-collar shirts, enhancing a non-formal, approachable appearance suitable for daily activities.^[25] Historically, the day cravat evolved from the informal neckcloths of the Regency era (early 19th century), where rectangular strips of cotton or linen were loosely tied for practical and stylish day use among gentlemen.^[26] In the 20th century, it gained popularity in British countryside attire, serving as a comfortable alternative to rigid ties during outdoor pursuits and rural social settings.^[24] For styling, the day cravat pairs effectively with tweed jackets or blazers, where its generous length enables adjustable knot sizing for a customized fit without added stiffness.^[24] This versatility makes it ideal for semi-casual outfits, offering a touch of traditional refinement while maintaining ease of wear.^[23]

Wedding Cravats

The wedding cravat is a pre-tied or scrunched silk neckwear featuring a permanent ruffle knot, designed to resemble a wide tie while incorporating gathered fabric at the neck for a formal, textured appearance.^[27]^[28] This style emphasizes a ruched front that maintains its shape, distinguishing it from looser variants through its structured knot and overall formality.^[29] Key characteristics include a stiffer construction to ensure durability during events, often crafted from silk with bold colors or intricate jacquard patterns such as polka dots or florals to add visual interest.^[29]^[30] Typically measuring 4 to 5 inches wide at the front, these cravats provide a balanced proportion when paired with formal attire.^[30] In usage, wedding cravats serve as a standard accessory for morning dress or frock coats in British weddings, where they complement the structured silhouette of these garments.^[31]^[32] This practice originated from Victorian formalwear adaptations, during which cravats became an essential element of gentlemen's daywear, evolving from earlier neckband styles to offer variety and elegance in dark suits.^[33] Among its advantages, the wedding cravat is easy to wear via clips or ties behind the neck, often supplied pre-tied to simplify application and prevent knot slippage throughout the day.^[34]^[35] It also maintains its shape without requiring daily retying, making it practical for ceremonial occasions.^[35]

Ascots and Other Variants

The ascot represents a refined variant of the cravat, typically crafted from silk with a triangular or pointed-end design that forms a wide, symmetrical knot.^[36] It is tied loosely around the neck and tucked into a vest or shirt for a polished appearance, distinguishing it from narrower neckties through its broader, more decorative profile.^[23] In formal contexts, such as the Royal Ascot horse racing event, the ascot is secured with a tie pin or ring to maintain symmetry and elegance, often paired with morning dress.^[37] A less formal day version allows the ends to hang loosely without pinning, emphasizing casual sophistication while retaining the cravat's historical ties to 19th-century British aristocratic fashion.^[23] Stocks, another specialized cravat form, originated in 18th-century European hunting and military attire as rigid, close-fitting neckbands stiffened with horsehair or canvas interlining to provide structure and uniformity.^[38] Unlike softer cravats, stocks prioritize a stiff, collar-like form that wraps around the neck and fastens at the back, serving both as a status symbol and practical accessory for equestrian pursuits.^[39] In modern usage, they remain prominent in equestrian events like polo and fox hunting, where their uniform appearance aligns with traditional riding dress codes.^[40] Among other variants, the pussy bow emerged as a loose, feminine adaptation of the cravat, featuring a floppy bow tied at the neck of blouses, inspired by 19th-century styles and popularized by designers like Coco Chanel.^[41] It saw a notable revival in the 1970s as part of Bohemian fashion, offering women a playful yet empowering alternative to masculine neckwear.^[42] The steenkirk, a historical pinned style from the late 17th century, involved drawing the cravat's ends through a buttonhole for a hasty, asymmetrical knot, named after the 1692 Battle of Steenkerke; it is rarely worn today outside reenactments.^[17] The bow tie serves as a direct descendant of the cravat, evolving from its knotted forms into a compact, self-tied loop that maintains the original's decorative essence in formal and casual menswear.^[43] These variants highlight key distinctions within cravat evolution: ascots stress symmetrical knotting and optional pinning for visual balance, while stocks emphasize rigid uniformity suited to uniformed activities like equestrian sports.^[23]^[39]

Materials and Construction

Fabrics Used

Cravats originated with practical fabrics suited to military use, such as linen, valued for its breathability and ability to prevent chafing under armor during the 17th century.^[44] Wool was also employed in early scarves for similar protective purposes, providing durability in rugged conditions.^[44] By the late 17th century, luxurious silk emerged as the dominant material, prized for its sheen and status symbolism, often sourced in high quality for French officers' neckwear.^[44] Lace trims, crafted in techniques like Venetian needle lace, adorned cravat ends during this period, adding ornate detail to muslin bases and reflecting elite fashion influences from Italy and Flanders.^[45] In the 18th century, fine linen remained prevalent for cravats, wrapped around stiffeners to elongate the neck and complement silk suits, though modern reproductions sometimes substitute cotton due to the rarity of period weaves.^[46] Early cravats were often heavily starched for crisp folds, but by the 19th century, starching largely phased out in favor of natural drapes, aligning with a shift toward more casual silk constructions.^[47] Contemporary cravats continue to favor silk for its luxurious texture, with options like satin finishes for formal wear and jacquard weaves for patterned elegance.^[46] Casual day styles incorporate cotton lawn or linen blends for breathability and wool mixes for warmth, maintaining versatility across settings.^[48] Fabrics must be soft and drapable to form elegant knots, avoiding stiff synthetics that hinder flow; typical dimensions include widths of 4 to 6 inches and lengths of 50 to 70 inches to accommodate various tying methods.^[49] Care requires gentle handling, such as hand-washing in lukewarm water with mild detergent or professional dry cleaning, to preserve the material's integrity and prevent deformation.^[50]

Tying Methods

The tying of a cravat involves techniques that vary by style and era, with basic methods emphasizing simplicity for everyday wear and more elaborate knots for formal or historical occasions. The four-in-hand knot, a simple over-under wrap, is commonly used for day cravats, where the fabric is draped around the neck with one end longer, crossed over the shorter end, wrapped around once, and pulled through to form a narrow, asymmetrical knot suitable for casual or business settings.^[51] This method, originating from 19th-century coachmen's slips to secure cravats, allows for quick adjustment and is tied with even pulls to maintain balance.^[23] For wedding cravats, the ruche knot creates a gathered, puffed appearance by scrunching the fabric. To tie it, drape the cravat around the neck under an open collar with ends even, cross one end over the other to form a loose base knot, then use fingers to bunch and puff the material upward while pulling the ends through the center, securing with even tension for a full, ruched effect that suits formal attire like morning dress.^[52] Historical knots from the Regency era, as detailed in the 1818 pamphlet Neckclothitania, offered 14 variations emphasizing precision and starch for dramatic shapes. The Osbaldeston knot, named after equestrian George Osbaldeston, forms a large bow by laying the cravat on the back of the neck, bringing ends forward, and tying them into a wide, prominent knot that drapes broadly, ideal for sporting or informal Regency looks.^[53] The mathematical tie requires symmetrical folds to create geometric angles, often using stiffened fabric for a triangular drape, while the Oriental knot involves a single loop and tuck for a formal, turban-like crescent shape with ends hanging evenly.^[53] These methods, illustrated in the text, highlight the era's focus on elaborate starching and folding to convey status.^[54] For ascots, a variant of the cravat, the tying process begins by draping the fabric around the neck under a closed collar with ends even. Cross one end over the other to the right, loop it up and over from behind, then tuck it through the front loop near the neck; pull both ends to tighten, adjust for a slight puff and symmetry, and secure the crossed wings with a stick pin inserted through both layers into the shirt for formal wear.^[55] This creates a neat, winged appearance suitable for daytime events. General tips for cravat tying include using a mirror to monitor alignment and prevent asymmetry, applying even tension during pulls to ensure the knot holds without puckering, and considering pre-tied cravats for beginners, which clip or band around the neck while mimicking hand-tied results.^[23]

Modern Usage and Cultural Significance

Contemporary Fashion Applications

In contemporary fashion, cravats have seen a resurgence in wedding attire, particularly among grooms seeking a distinctive alternative to traditional ties. There is a growing preference for colored silk cravats to match bridal themes, moving beyond the conventional white options. At equestrian events such as Royal Ascot, cravats are permitted in less formal enclosures like the Village Enclosure, where they complement morning dress alongside standard neckties.^[56] In the casual sphere, cravats pair effectively with boho-inspired linen shirts for relaxed, eclectic looks, enhancing a vintage or free-spirited aesthetic.^[57] Menswear trends in the 2010s revived ascots and cravats as part of a broader interest in vintage and hipster styles, often styled loosely for everyday sophistication. For women, adaptations appear in pussy-bow blouses, which echo the cravat's bow-like form and have trended strongly into 2025, as seen in collections from brands like Saint Laurent. In Japanese street fashion, women's cravats draw on elegant, minimalist influences, integrating them into urban ensembles for a refined yet playful vibe.^[58]^[59] Designers continue to innovate with cravats, incorporating patterns that add whimsy to formal outfits. Croatian brand Croata has emphasized sustainable practices since the 2010s, producing eco-friendly cravats from responsibly sourced materials as part of their 2023 sustainability initiatives.^[60] Cravats offer versatility across styling, pairing seamlessly with suits for a vintage-inspired elegance or with jeans for an eclectic, modern edge. Seasonal adaptations include wool blends for winter warmth, ensuring year-round wearability in tailored ensembles.^[61]

Cultural and National Importance

The cravat holds profound national significance in Croatia, where it originated as a symbol of identity among soldiers in the 17th century during conflicts with the Ottoman Empire. These early neckwear pieces, known as hrvat or kravata, were worn by Croatian mercenaries serving in French armies, evolving into a marker of Croatian heritage that distinguishes the nation globally.^[62]^[63] This cultural emblem is commemorated annually on International Cravat Day, October 18, first established in 2003 by the Academia Cravatica to promote awareness of its Croatian roots. The day was officially recognized by the Croatian Parliament in 2008, leading to nationwide celebrations in Zagreb, including festivals, exhibitions, and the tradition of adorning monuments with giant cravats to symbolize national pride. The Cravaticum Museum in Zagreb, opened in June 2024, further institutionalizes this legacy by showcasing historical artifacts and the cravat's evolution, drawing visitors to explore its ties to Croatian craftsmanship and history.^[64]^[65]^[66] Beyond Croatia, the cravat embodies elegance and refinement in global cultural narratives, frequently appearing in literature and film as a signifier of sophistication. In Jane Austen's Regency-era novels, such as Pride and Prejudice, cravats feature in descriptions of gentlemen's attire, underscoring social status and decorum among the English gentry. Similarly, depictions of Sherlock Holmes in early 20th-century adaptations often include cravat-like ascots, reinforcing the character's image as a dapper, intellectual detective in Victorian and Edwardian settings.^[15]^[67] Symbolically, the cravat denotes refinement and has become a source of pride for the Croatian diaspora, evoking themes of dignity, success, and cultural resilience. In modern diplomacy, Croatian leaders have leveraged it as a gift of goodwill; for instance, during Croatia's 2020 EU Presidency, the Ministry of Foreign and European Affairs presented cravats and neckerchiefs featuring national motifs as protocol gifts to international dignitaries, highlighting shared European heritage. Recent revivals in 2025 fashion, such as Spring/Summer collections at events like Goodwood Revival, incorporate cravat motifs in unisex designs, promoting inclusivity and empowering wearers across genders to embrace its timeless versatility.^[68]^[69]^[70]^[71]

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The Project Gutenberg eBook of The Art of Tying the Cravat, by H ...
This book demonstrates the art of tying the cravat in sixteen lessons, including 32 styles, and a history of the cravat. It also describes the cravat's form ...Missing: 19th British
[55]
https://www.bows-n-ties.com/how-to-tie-an-ascot/
[56]
Do I need to wear a tie? - Ascot Racecourse
Bow ties and cravats are NOT permitted. Within the Village Enclosure, a standard necktie, bow tie or cravat must be worn. There are no regulations relating to ...Missing: mandate | Show results with:mandate
[57]
Bohemian Linen Shirt - Etsy
4.7 1.5K Check out our bohemian linen shirt selection for the very best in unique or custom, handmade pieces from our blouses shops.
[58]
Pussy Bows Are Back for 2026—Here's How to Wear Them in Real ...
Oct 21, 2025 · The pussy bow trend, which was popular in the '80s and 2010s, has just been endorsed by Kate Middleton and brands like Saint Laurent.Missing: cravat adaptation
[59]
Discover the Elegance of Women's Cravats: Embrace Japanese ...
Aug 20, 2025 · Elevate Your Style with Our Women's Cravat Collection, Inspired by Japanese Fashion Trends.
[60]
Black Silk Polka Dot Tie - Paul Smith
Made in Italy from 100% soft silk, this tie features a polka dot pattern throughout, with a contrasting underside. Perfect for neutral formalwear outfits, ...Missing: cravats | Show results with:cravats
[61]
[PDF] Sustainability report for Croata Fashion Brand 2023
The Cravat Regiment (Croatian: Kravat pukovnija) is a guard of honour based in Zagreb, Croatia. Beginning in 2010 and founded by Croata, the regiment has ...
[62]
https://www.croatiaweek.com/croatian-invention-celebrated-as-world-cravat-day-is-marked-today/
[63]
Croatian invention celebrated as World Cravat Day is marked today
Oct 18, 2023 · The Cravat is a Croatian symbol known and recognised worldwide and the 18th of October was declared World Cravat Day by Academia Cravatica back in 2008.
[64]
How Croatia's kravata became the modern necktie
Oct 18, 2025 · During the Tridesetogodišnji rat (Thirty Years' War), 1618–1648, Croatian mercenaries fighting for the French wore knotted cloths around ...
[65]
Today is National Necktie Day in Croatia—Birthplace of the Necktie
Oct 18, 2018 · It's unclear when exactly the necktie was invented, but Croatian soldiers wore red cravats as part of their uniform during the Thirty Years' War ...Missing: origins | Show results with:origins
[66]
Cravat tied on 50 Zagreb monuments as Croatian invention celebrated
Oct 16, 2018 · The Cravat is a Croatian symbol known and recognised worldwide and since 2008, the 18th of October has been declared as World Cravat Day by ...
[67]
President Milanović at opening of Cravaticum Museum: Croats claim ...
Jun 26, 2024 · President Milanović at opening of Cravaticum Museum: Croats claim legitimate right to historical ownership of the tie. 26. June 2024. 14:49. The ...
[68]
https://www.menseventwear.com/blogs/news/the-cravat-origins-and-meanings
[69]
https://www.academia.edu/102463940/The_Symbolic_Value_of_a_Thing_An_Analysis_of_the_Kravata_in_Croatia
[70]
The Symbolic Value of a Thing: An Analysis of the Kravata in Croatia
The kravata symbolizes the intersection of Croatian nationalism and European integration, legitimizing neoliberal reforms. Croatia's historical claim to the ...<|separator|>
[71]
Cravat, neckerchief presented as symbols of Croatia's EU presidency
Jun 16, 2020 · The ministry and the Academia Cravatica have realized a number of joint projects during the Croatian presidency, such as tying cravats around ...
[72]
https://www.cravat-club.com/blogs/news/spring-summer-2025-collection-the-highlights