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Shampoo

Shampoo is a cosmetic preparation, typically in the form of a viscous liquid or gel, designed for cleansing the hair and scalp by removing dirt, excess sebum, and styling residues through the action of surfactants that produce lather when mixed with water.^[1]^[2] It serves as a fundamental hair care product, applied during bathing routines to maintain hygiene and scalp health, and is regulated by authorities like the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) as a cosmetic unless it makes therapeutic claims, such as treating dandruff, which classifies it as a drug.^[3]^[4] The word "shampoo" entered the English language in 1762, derived from the Hindi and Urdu imperative cā̃po, meaning "to press, massage, or knead," which stems from the Sanskrit root chap referring to squeezing or soaping.^[1]^[5] Initially, it described a vigorous head and body massage practice in India that involved herbal cleansing, introduced to Europe by British travelers and colonial administrators in the 18th century; by the early 19th century, the term shifted to denote the washing agent itself.^[5]^[1] Early hair cleansing methods trace back thousands of years, with ancient Egyptians using mixtures of animal fats, alkaline salts, and herbs around 1500 BCE, while civilizations in India and the Indus Valley employed natural saponins from soapnut trees (Sapindus) for lathering cleansers over 4,000 years ago.^[6] In Europe, soap-based hair washes appeared in the 17th century, but these were often solid bars that left scum in hard water. The modern shampoo era began in the 1930s with synthetic detergents like sodium lauryl sulfate, enabling clearer rinses; the first liquid shampoo was launched in 1927 by the German company Schwarzkopf, revolutionizing at-home hair care.^[6]^[7] Contemporary shampoos are formulated primarily from water (80-90% by weight), with key active ingredients including anionic surfactants like sodium laureth sulfate for cleansing and foaming, conditioning agents such as cationic polymers or silicones (e.g., dimethicone) to reduce frizz and add shine, and thickeners like guar gum for viscosity.^[7]^[8] Other components encompass preservatives (e.g., parabens or sodium benzoate) to prevent microbial growth, pH adjusters for scalp compatibility (ideally 5.5-7.0), and optional additives like sequestering agents to bind minerals or emollients such as aloe vera for moisture retention.^[7]^[8] Formulations vary by hair type—sulfate-free for sensitive scalps, moisturizing for dry hair, or clarifying for oily buildup—and increasingly incorporate natural or organic elements amid consumer demand for sustainability.^[8]^[9] Beyond basic cleansing, shampoos address diverse needs, including anti-dandruff variants with active ingredients like zinc pyrithione or ketoconazole (regulated as over-the-counter drugs), color-protecting formulas for dyed hair, and specialized types for children or pets to minimize irritation.^[3]^[9] Global production emphasizes safety, with the FDA requiring accurate ingredient labeling but not pre-market approval for cosmetics, relying instead on manufacturers' responsibility for substantiating claims and avoiding harmful substances. The industry, valued at billions annually, continues to innovate with eco-friendly packaging and microbiome-friendly ingredients to support scalp health.^[10]

History

Ancient South Asia and Mesopotamia

The term "shampoo" derives from the Hindi word chāmpo, an imperative form of chāmpnā meaning "to press, knead, or massage," which traces back to the Sanskrit root capayati, signifying "to press, knead, or soothe."^[5] In ancient South Asia, particularly within the Indus Valley Civilization around 1500 BCE, inhabitants employed plant-based concoctions as early hair cleansers, reflecting a sophisticated understanding of natural surfactants for personal hygiene. A prevalent method involved boiling the fruits of Sapindus mukorossi (reetha or soapnut), rich in saponins that produce a gentle lather, alongside dried Phyllanthus emblica (amla or Indian gooseberry) and select other herbs, then straining the mixture to create an effective rinse for removing dirt and oils from hair and scalp.^[11] Archaeological inferences from Harappan sites suggest widespread use of such indigenous plants, with residues and botanical remains indicating their role in daily grooming rituals.^[12] Neem (Azadirachta indica) was commonly integrated into these formulations for its antimicrobial qualities, aiding in scalp cleansing and preventing infections, as noted in traditional compilations of herbal practices.^[13] Vedic literature further documents these customs, portraying hair washing as an integral component of snana (bathing) rituals essential for physical and ritual purity. The Rigveda, composed circa 1500–1200 BCE, invokes waters and cleansing acts in hymns that imply post-bath hair tending with herbal aids to restore vitality and ward off impurities, aligning with broader purification observances.^[14] In Mesopotamia, contemporaneous developments appear in cuneiform records on clay tablets dating to approximately 2500 BCE, which detail rudimentary cleansing agents akin to proto-shampoos. These include barley-derived potash (from burnt stalks) combined with animal fats and vegetable oils to form pastes or rinses for body and scalp washing, primarily for hygienic and medicinal purposes such as treating skin irritations.^[15] Herbal mixtures, often incorporating local plants like almond oil, were applied topically to the hair for conditioning, underscoring an early emphasis on scalp health amid arid environmental challenges.^[16] These foundational practices in South Asia and Mesopotamia laid the groundwork for hair cleansing traditions that spread via ancient trade routes to influence later European adaptations.

European and Colonial Developments

In medieval Europe, between approximately 500 and 1500 CE, hair washing practices relied on rudimentary soaps crafted from animal fats boiled with wood ashes to produce lye, which served as a basic cleanser for both body and hair.^[17] These soaps, often harsh and alkaline, were used sparingly due to their scarcity and the prevailing belief that frequent bathing could harm health, leading to infrequent hair washes supplemented by combing with herbal-infused oils or vinegar rinses to maintain shine and remove lice.^[18] Production was localized, with monastic and urban workshops in regions like Italy and France refining the process using tallow from livestock and potash from burned plants, marking an adaptation of earlier Roman techniques to the resource constraints of the period.^[19] By the 18th century, French perfumers elevated hair care among the nobility through scented vinegars and herbal rinses, blending aromatic essences like lavender, rosemary, and orange blossom with diluted vinegar to create refreshing tonics that masked odors and added luster without full immersion bathing.^[20] These vinaigrettes de toilette, popularized at the court of Versailles under figures like Marie Antoinette, were applied post-powdering to counteract the greasy residue of elaborate wigs and pomades, reflecting a cultural emphasis on fragrance over sanitation amid limited water use.^[21] Such innovations, crafted by guild perfumers in Grasse and Paris, transformed hair maintenance into a luxurious ritual, influencing European elites and setting the stage for more refined cleansing methods.^[22] Colonial trade routes in the 1700s facilitated the introduction of South Asian shampooing techniques—rooted in herbal massages and cleansing pastes—to Europe, culminating in the establishment of the first English "shampooing" vapor baths in 1814 by Sake Dean Mahomed, an Indian immigrant surgeon in Brighton.^[23] Mahomed's method, derived from the Hindi "champi" (head massage), combined steam baths with vigorous scalp rubbing using herbal oils, promoted as a therapeutic remedy for ailments like rheumatism and promoted through his 1822 book Shampooing; or, Benefits Resulting from the Use of the Indian Medicated Vapour Bath.^[24] His enterprise gained royal patronage, including from King George IV, bridging Eastern practices with Western hygiene and popularizing the term "shampoo" for head treatments.^[25] The 19th century saw a pivotal shift toward liquid soaps for hair washing, enabled by French chemist Nicolas Leblanc's 1791 process for producing soda ash (sodium carbonate) from common salt, which provided a cheaper alkali essential for saponification.^[26] This innovation scaled soap manufacturing across Europe, transitioning from solid bars to more soluble liquid forms suitable for diluted hair rinses, reducing the harshness of earlier lye-based products.^[17] By mid-century, such advancements supported early commercial hair preparations, exemplified by Queen Victoria's reported use of perfumed soaps and tonics like those from Rowlands' Kalydor in the 1800s, which blended cleansing agents with scents for royal grooming routines.^[27]

Indigenous Traditions in Asia and the Americas

In pre-colonial Philippines, indigenous communities utilized the bark of the gugo vine (Entada phaseoloides), a native woody legume, to create a natural lathering agent for hair cleansing by soaking and rubbing it in water to produce foam similar to soap. This practice, documented in historical accounts from the 16th century but rooted in earlier traditions, helped maintain hair health and was often combined with coconut oil, derived from the abundant Cocos nucifera, to nourish and strengthen strands against environmental stressors. Similarly, in pre-Islamic Indonesia, communities in regions like Java and Sumatra employed rice water—obtained by rinsing or fermenting Oryza sativa grains—for its starch content that conditioned and strengthened hair, while pandan leaves (Pandanus amaryllifolius) were infused to add fragrance and shine, and lime juice (Citrus aurantifolia) served as a clarifying rinse to remove buildup from the scalp. These methods relied on locally available plants, reflecting adaptive knowledge of botanical properties for gentle, effective cleansing without harsh chemicals.^[28]^[29]^[30]^[31]^[32] Among indigenous groups in the Americas, the Hopi people of the Southwestern United States, whose cultural practices trace back to around 500 CE through their Ancestral Puebloan heritage, extracted saponins from yucca roots (Yucca species, such as Yucca baccata) by peeling, grinding, and mixing the pulp with water to form a sudsy shampoo that cleansed hair while promoting scalp health and preventing fallout, as per traditional legends. In South America, during the Inca Empire (circa 1200–1500 CE), communities in the Andean region used plant-based formulations from local staples for hygiene and nourishment in arid environments. These plant-based formulations were sustainable, drawing from cultivated staples that supported both nourishment and hygiene in arid or high-altitude environments.^[33]^[34] Beyond practical use, these shampoo traditions held deep cultural and ceremonial significance, serving as rituals for spiritual cleansing and community bonding; for instance, Hopi yucca washes preceded religious ceremonies to purify participants symbolically, while in Philippine and Indonesian indigenous practices, gugo and pandan-infused rinses were integrated into life-cycle events to invoke protection and vitality for the spirit. Such methods underscored a holistic view of hair as an extension of physical and metaphysical well-being, fostering resilience in pre-colonial societies. Later colonial disruptions marginalized some of these knowledge systems, though remnants persist in contemporary indigenous revivals.^[35]^[36]^[31]

19th and 20th Century Commercialization

The commercialization of shampoo accelerated in the late 19th century, as industrial advances enabled the production of soap-based hair cleansers on a large scale, moving away from localized, natural preparations toward accessible consumer goods. A key early development was the 1927 launch of the first liquid shampoo by the German company Schwarzkopf, which combined cleansing powder with water in a ready-to-use form.^[7] In the 1930s, Procter & Gamble revolutionized the industry by introducing synthetic detergents, such as triethanolamine lauryl sulfate, in their Drene shampoo—the first soap-free liquid formulation that effectively cleansed without leaving soap scum in hard water, marking a key shift from traditional bar soaps.^[37] A pivotal regulatory milestone occurred in 1938 with the passage of the Federal Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act, which classified shampoos as cosmetics and subjected them to federal oversight for safety, labeling, and manufacturing standards.^[3] Following World War II, the shampoo market experienced explosive growth driven by rising consumer demand and advertising, exemplified by Procter & Gamble's 1961 launch of Head & Shoulders, the first mass-market anti-dandruff shampoo containing pyrithione zinc to address scalp issues effectively.^[38] The 1970s and 1980s saw further innovation with the advent of 2-in-1 products, which integrated conditioning agents like cationic polymers into shampoos for simultaneous cleansing and detangling, appealing to busy consumers seeking convenience; a major example was Procter & Gamble's 1987 launch of Pert Plus, incorporating silicones for enhanced performance.^[39] By 2000, the global shampoo industry had expanded dramatically to a multi-billion-dollar market, fueled by international branding, diverse formulations, and increased personal grooming awareness worldwide.

Composition and Formulation

Common Ingredients

Modern shampoos are primarily composed of water, which serves as the base solvent and typically constitutes 80-90% of the formulation, often using deionized water to minimize mineral content and ensure stability.^[40]^[6] Deionized water facilitates the dissolution of other water-soluble components and provides the liquid medium for the overall product consistency.^[40] Surfactants are essential cleansing agents in shampoos, enabling the removal of dirt, oil, and residues from hair and scalp. Anionic surfactants, such as sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) and sodium laureth sulfate (SLES), function as primary detergents by producing foam and effectively lifting sebum and impurities due to their amphiphilic properties.^[41]^[42] Non-ionic surfactants, exemplified by cocamidopropyl betaine, act as secondary agents to enhance mildness and foam stability in the formulation.^[41] Thickeners are incorporated to adjust the viscosity of shampoos, providing a desirable texture for application and distribution. Common examples include sodium chloride, which increases thickness by interacting with surfactants, and natural polymers like guar gum or its derivatives, which contribute to gel-like consistency without altering cleansing efficacy.^[7]^[41]^[43] Preservatives are added to inhibit microbial contamination and maintain product integrity throughout its shelf life. Parabens and phenoxyethanol are frequently used for this purpose, with phenoxyethanol disrupting microbial cell membranes to prevent growth; contemporary formulations increasingly opt for paraben-free alternatives like sodium benzoate due to regulatory and consumer preferences.^[44]^[45] pH adjusters ensure the formulation remains compatible with scalp and hair physiology, typically targeting a pH range of 5-7. Citric acid is a common choice for lowering pH to this level, promoting stability and appropriate ionic interactions among ingredients.^[7]^[46] These core components form the foundational structure of shampoo formulations, allowing for adaptations in specialized products, including recent trends toward silicone-free and bio-based ingredients for sustainability as of 2025.^[7]

Functional Mechanisms and Claims

Shampoos primarily cleanse hair and scalp through the action of surfactants, which lower the surface tension of water to enable better penetration and interaction with sebum, oils, and dirt. These amphiphilic molecules, with hydrophobic tails and hydrophilic heads, aggregate above their critical micelle concentration to form micelles—small, spherical structures that encapsulate hydrophobic particles like oils and soil, emulsifying them into a rinsable dispersion. This process allows for effective removal of impurities without stripping the hair excessively, as the micelles facilitate dispersion in water during rinsing.^[47]^[48] Conditioning agents in shampoos, such as silicones like dimethicone, provide benefits by depositing a thin, hydrophobic film on the hair shaft during the rinse phase. This coating lubricates the hair surface, reducing inter-strand friction, which minimizes tangling, breakage, and static while improving combability and shine. Unlike the initial cleansing action dominated by surfactants, conditioning occurs post-lather as these non-water-soluble agents adhere selectively to damaged or porous cuticles, smoothing them without interfering with dirt removal.^[49]^[50] Many shampoos market volumizing effects through the inclusion of polymers, such as VP/VA copolymers, which deposit lightweight films that temporarily lift hair cuticles and separate strands, creating an illusion of fuller volume without weighing down the hair. Similarly, moisturizing claims often highlight humectants like glycerin, which attract atmospheric water to the hair shaft via hydrogen bonding, enhancing hydration and flexibility by drawing in approximately its own weight in moisture.^[51]^[52] These assertions must align with scientific substantiation, as studies demonstrate that effective shampoos can effectively remove surface oils and residues in a single wash, validating basic cleansing efficacy while underscoring the transient nature of conditioning benefits.^[53] Formulation design differentiates cleansing and conditioning phases to balance efficacy: the aqueous surfactant base drives initial foam and impurity solubilization, while suspended or emulsified conditioning components activate during dilution and rinsing to avoid premature deposition that could reduce cleaning power. Under U.S. Federal Trade Commission (FTC) guidelines, such claims require competent and reliable evidence, like clinical testing, to prevent misleading consumers about long-term results, as unsubstantiated promises of permanent volume or deep hydration can violate advertising standards.^[54]^[55]

Types and Variants

General-Purpose Shampoos

General-purpose shampoos are everyday hair cleansing products formulated with pH-balanced solutions, typically around 5.5 to match the scalp's natural acidity, to support frequent use without disrupting the hair's protective barrier.^[41] These formulas are designed for regular washing, with dermatological recommendations suggesting application 2-3 times per week for most hair types to maintain cleanliness while minimizing dryness.^[56] The pH balance helps prevent irritation and supports scalp health during routine maintenance.^[57] At their core, general-purpose shampoos feature mild surfactants, such as amphoteric types like cocamidopropyl betaine, which effectively remove dirt, oil, and residues from all hair types without excessive stripping of natural oils.^[58] These surfactants provide gentle cleansing and good foaming properties suitable for broad consumer needs.^[41] Basic additives like fragrances for scent and colorants for visual appeal are commonly included to enhance user experience, though they remain minimal to keep the product versatile and non-specialized.^[59] The evolution of general-purpose shampoos traces back to the 1930s, when liquid formulations using synthetic surfactants replaced traditional bar soaps, offering easier application and better lathering in hard water.^[60] This shift, exemplified by early products like Drene introduced in 1934, marked a pivotal advancement in accessibility and efficacy for daily hair care.^[61] In terms of market presence, general-purpose shampoos dominate global sales, representing the largest segment of the total hair shampoo industry, which was valued at approximately USD 30.6 billion in 2023 and USD 36.27 billion in 2024.^[62]^[63] Leading brands like Pantene drive significant volume through widespread availability and consumer trust.^[64] For optimal use, apply a small amount to wet hair, lather by massaging into the scalp for 1-2 minutes to distribute evenly, then rinse thoroughly with warm water to remove all residue.^[65]

Medicated and Therapeutic Shampoos

Medicated and therapeutic shampoos are specialized formulations designed to address particular scalp and hair conditions through the incorporation of active pharmaceutical ingredients that provide targeted treatment beyond basic cleansing. These products treat issues such as dandruff, seborrheic dermatitis, pediculosis, and psoriasis by delivering antifungal, antiparasitic, or keratolytic effects directly to the affected areas. Unlike general-purpose shampoos, they are regulated as over-the-counter (OTC) drugs in the United States by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA), which requires manufacturers to demonstrate safety and efficacy through clinical data before marketing.^[3]^[66] Anti-dandruff shampoos commonly feature active ingredients like zinc pyrithione (ZPT) or ketoconazole, which target the Malassezia fungus implicated in dandruff and seborrheic dermatitis pathogenesis. ZPT, typically at concentrations of 1-2%, exerts antifungal activity by disrupting Malassezia cell membranes and reducing scalp flaking and itching; clinical trials have shown that 1% ZPT shampoo significantly reduces scaling severity after two weeks of use, with improvements measured via folliscope imaging (p=0.0391).^[67]^[68] Ketoconazole, an azole antifungal at 2% concentration, inhibits ergosterol synthesis in fungal cells, proving superior to 1% ZPT in treating severe dandruff, with randomized trials demonstrating greater reductions in adherent scalp flakes and seborrheic dermatitis symptoms after four weeks.^[69]^[70] For pediculosis capitis (head lice infestation), pyrethrin-based shampoos serve as pediculicides that kill live lice on contact by disrupting their nervous systems through sodium channel interference. Derived from chrysanthemum flowers and often synergized with piperonyl butoxide, these formulations achieve high cure rates, with clinical studies reporting up to 90% efficacy after multiple applications spaced 7-10 days apart to target newly hatched nymphs.^[71]^[72] However, emerging resistance in lice populations has prompted recommendations for repeat treatments and combination therapies. Coal tar shampoos are employed for psoriasis management, where coal tar acts as a keratoplastic agent to slow excessive skin cell turnover and reduce inflammation in psoriatic plaques. Available in concentrations of 0.5-5%, these shampoos have demonstrated efficacy in placebo-controlled trials, with two studies confirming significant improvements in plaque severity, erythema, and scaling after regular use.^[73]^[74] In the US, these shampoos fall under FDA OTC drug monographs, mandating labeling with "Drug Facts" panels and premarket evidence of efficacy to support therapeutic claims like "treats dandruff" or "controls psoriasis symptoms."^[3]^[75] Proper usage typically involves applying the shampoo to wet hair, massaging into the scalp, and leaving it on for about 5 minutes to allow active ingredients to penetrate before rinsing; this is recommended 2-3 times weekly to maximize therapeutic benefits while minimizing risks like irritation or fungal resistance.^[76]^[77]^[78]

Specialized Shampoos

Shampoos for Specific Hair Types and Conditions

Shampoos formulated for specific hair types and conditions address aesthetic and textural needs by incorporating targeted ingredients that enhance manageability, appearance, and resilience without addressing underlying medical issues. These products focus on cosmetic benefits, such as preserving vibrancy in colored hair or boosting hydration in dry strands, tailored to common hair challenges influenced by texture, environment, or styling habits.^[9] For colored hair, specialized shampoos emphasize gentle cleansing agents and antioxidants to minimize fading caused by washing, UV exposure, and oxidation. These formulas often avoid harsh sulfates, which can strip dye molecules, and instead include antioxidants like vitamin E or plant extracts to neutralize free radicals that degrade color. For instance, studies have shown that incorporating antioxidants such as grape seed extract into hair care products can reduce color fade from repeated shampooing and environmental stressors by providing a protective barrier on the hair shaft. Similarly, hydrophobically modified cationic polymers in these shampoos form a film that limits dye dissolution in water, thereby preserving color intensity over multiple washes.^[79]^[80]^[81] Moisturizing shampoos for dry or damaged hair prioritize emollients and humectants to restore hydration and improve elasticity, countering issues like brittleness from environmental damage or heat styling. Natural oils such as argan oil, rich in fatty acids and tocopherols, penetrate the hair cuticle to replenish lipids and seal moisture, while shea butter acts as an occlusive agent to prevent transepidermal water loss and soften the cortex. These ingredients work synergistically in formulations to nourish the hair fiber without residue, as evidenced in reviews of cosmetic hair care where plant-derived emollients enhance softness and reduce breakage in dehydrated strands.^[9]^[82] Volumizing shampoos for fine hair aim to create the illusion of thickness by lightly coating strands and lifting roots, using lightweight polymers or resins that deposit a thin film without adding weight. These synthetic or natural polymers, such as cationic variants, adhere to the hair surface to increase diameter and provide temporary body, while avoiding heavy silicones that could flatten limp hair. Research on hair care polymers highlights their role as film-formers that enhance volume through electrostatic repulsion and structural support, allowing fine hair to maintain bounce post-rinse.^[83]^[82] Clarifying shampoos for oily scalps incorporate chelating agents to remove excess sebum, product residue, and mineral buildup from hard water, promoting a cleaner base without over-drying. Agents like EDTA or citric acid bind to divalent cations such as calcium and magnesium, forming soluble complexes that rinse away, thus preventing dullness and scalp irritation from accumulation. This mechanism is particularly effective in regions with high mineral content in water, where chelators restore hair clarity and balance oil production.^[84] Formulas adapted for curly or Afro hair often integrate co-wash elements—mild, conditioning cleansers that cleanse without stripping natural oils—to retain moisture and define coils, reflecting cultural preferences for textured hair care. These shampoos use creamy bases with humectants and butters to maintain the hair's lipid barrier, reducing frizz and breakage in tightly coiled patterns that are prone to dehydration. Dermatological overviews note that such approaches support the unique porosity and curl structure of Afro-textured hair, enhancing hydration retention during washing.^[9]^[85]

Shampoos for Targeted Users and Forms

Baby shampoos are specifically formulated to be gentle on sensitive infant skin and eyes, featuring tear-free properties achieved through a pH level around 7.0 that matches the natural pH of tears to minimize stinging.^[86] These products are hypoallergenic, designed to reduce the risk of irritation or allergic reactions in babies with delicate scalps.^[87] Mild surfactants such as decyl glucoside, derived from natural sources like corn and coconut, provide effective cleansing without stripping essential oils or causing dryness.^[88] Animal shampoos are tailored to the unique pH balance of pet skin, typically adjusted to around 6.5 for dogs to avoid disrupting their natural barrier and prevent dryness or irritation.^[89] These formulations often include flea-repellent additives like pyrethrins, natural insecticides extracted from chrysanthemum flowers, which target and eliminate fleas, ticks, and lice on contact while being safe for animal use when properly diluted.^[90] Solid shampoo bars represent an eco-friendly innovation in shampoo delivery, compressed from surfactants such as sodium cocoyl isethionate—a mild, coconut-derived cleanser that lathers well without sulfates—to create a portable, water-free product.^[91] By eliminating liquid packaging, these bars significantly reduce plastic waste compared to traditional bottled shampoos.^[92] Jelly, gel, and paste or cream shampoo forms offer high-viscosity alternatives for targeted application, allowing users to apply the product precisely to the scalp or hair roots without excessive runoff. Thickeners like xanthan gum, a natural polysaccharide produced by bacterial fermentation, are commonly used to achieve this texture, providing stability and a smooth, spreadable consistency in these non-traditional formats.^[93] Antibacterial shampoo variants incorporate ingredients like triclosan to combat bacteria on acne-prone scalps, helping to reduce inflammation and prevent breakouts in areas affected by seborrheic conditions.^[94] However, triclosan use in cosmetics is restricted in the European Union; it is permitted as a preservative up to 0.3% in rinse-off products like shampoos, but prohibited in certain applications since 2016 and subject to further restrictions for products placed on the market after December 31, 2024, due to environmental and health concerns, including its persistence in waterways and potential to contribute to antibiotic resistance.^[95]^[96]^[97] Many modern antibacterial options now rely on sulfate-free alternatives to maintain efficacy while adhering to updated regulations.^[98]

Health and Safety

Potential Risks and Side Effects

Allergic reactions to shampoo ingredients, particularly fragrances and preservatives, can manifest as contact dermatitis, characterized by redness, itching, and scalp inflammation. Fragrances are among the most common culprits, accounting for 10-12% of positive patch tests in cases of cosmetic allergic contact dermatitis, based on studies of patients with eczema.^[99] Preservatives like methylisothiazolinone contribute to reactions in shampoos containing them. In the general population, sensitivity to fragrance products in cosmetics is estimated at 1-4%, though this rises to 8-15% among individuals with eczema.^[100] Preservatives and fragrances are common in shampoo formulations and are frequent allergens in scalp contact dermatitis cases.^[101] Parabens, used as preservatives in some shampoos, have raised concerns for endocrine disruption due to their ability to mimic estrogen in laboratory settings. Animal studies have demonstrated that parabens can lead to reproductive abnormalities, such as altered organ weights and impaired male reproductive development, at exposure levels relevant to cosmetic use. However, human evidence remains inconclusive as of 2025, with some epidemiological studies showing associations with breast cancer risk, though direct causation from cosmetic use is not established.^[102]^[103] Sulfates, such as sodium lauryl sulfate commonly found in shampoos, can cause scalp irritation by stripping natural oils, leading to dryness and increased sensitivity. This over-cleansing effect may exacerbate conditions like dandruff or seborrheic dermatitis in susceptible individuals. Additionally, sulfates accelerate color fading in dyed hair by removing protective layers and pigments more aggressively than milder surfactants. Accidental ingestion of shampoo, particularly in children, poses risks of gastrointestinal upset, including nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea, due to the detergent components. Non-tear-free formulations can cause significant eye irritation, resulting in burning, redness, and temporary vision blurring upon contact. Long-term exposure to formaldehyde releasers, such as quaternium-15 or DMDM hydantoin used in some shampoos, carries potential carcinogenic risks, as formaldehyde is classified as a known human carcinogen linked to nasopharyngeal cancer and leukemia. These releasers gradually emit low levels of formaldehyde, but direct causation of cancer from cosmetic use lacks strong epidemiological evidence, though regulatory limits cap free formaldehyde at 0.2% in cosmetics to minimize exposure. In the EU, the maximum concentration is 0.2%, with labeling required if exceeding 0.001% (10 ppm) as of 2024; in the US, a ban on formaldehyde and releasers in cosmetics is proposed to take effect January 2027.^[104] Specialized shampoos formulated without these preservatives may reduce such risks for sensitive users. Recent studies as of 2025 have highlighted additional concerns, including higher levels of formaldehyde and releasers in personal care products marketed to Black women, potentially elevating cancer risks in these groups.^[105] A 2024 study also linked exposure to phenols, common shampoo ingredients, to disruptions in heart electrical activity.^[106]

Regulations and Best Practices

In the United States, shampoos are classified as cosmetics under the Federal Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act, which does not require pre-market approval for safety or efficacy but mandates accurate labeling to prevent misbranding under 21 CFR Part 701.^[107] This regulation specifies that ingredient lists must appear in descending order of predominance, using either common or International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI) names, while principal display panels require the product identity, net quantity, and manufacturer details.^[108] Although the FDA does not mandate specific allergen warnings for cosmetics like shampoos, labels must include any required cautionary statements, such as warnings for potential eye irritation, if applicable under 21 CFR 740.^[109] In the European Union, the Cosmetics Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009, effective since July 2009, prohibits or restricts the use of over 1,300 substances in cosmetic products through Annexes II and III, including early bans on certain preservatives and colorants, with subsequent additions like microbeads in rinse-off products from 2020. This framework requires full ingredient disclosure using INCI names on labels, along with mandatory warnings for 26 fragrance allergens if they exceed specified concentrations, to inform consumers of potential sensitivities.^[110] Compliance involves pre-market notification via the Cosmetic Products Notification Portal and safety assessments by qualified experts. Best practices for safe shampoo use emphasize consumer precautions to minimize irritation. Patch testing is recommended before full application: apply a small amount diluted in water to the inner forearm for 24-48 hours, monitoring for redness or itching, as advised by dermatological guidelines for new hair products.^[111] Avoid direct eye contact during use, rinsing immediately if contact occurs, and opt for lukewarm water to prevent scalp dryness or hair damage from hot water.^[112] Limit washing frequency to 2-3 times per week for most hair types to preserve natural oils, adjusting based on scalp oiliness or activity levels.^[113] As of 2025, global scrutiny on microplastics in rinse-off products like shampoos has intensified, aligning with UNEP's calls for phasing out intentionally added microplastics to curb marine pollution, influencing stricter enforcement under EU REACH restrictions effective October 2027 for such cosmetics, with initial reporting deadlines from October 2025.^[114]^[115]

Alternative Practices

No Poo Movement

The No Poo movement, also known as the "no 'poo" method, originated with hairstylist Lorraine Massey, who coined the term in her 2001 book Curly Girl: The Handbook, where she advocated for curly-haired individuals to abandon traditional shampoos in favor of routines that preserve the scalp's natural sebum balance.^[116] Massey's approach stemmed from her observations at the Devachan Salon, where she noted that conventional shampoos disrupted the scalp's oil production, leading to drier, frizzier curls; instead, she promoted methods that allow sebum—the scalp's natural oil—to distribute evenly along the hair shaft without interference.^[117] At its core, the No Poo theory posits that frequent use of detergent-based shampoos strips away sebum, prompting the scalp's sebaceous glands to overproduce oils in response, which creates a cycle of greasiness and over-cleansing.^[118] Adherents believe that ceasing shampoo use enables the scalp to self-regulate sebum production over time, typically during a transition period lasting 4 to 6 weeks, when hair may initially appear oily as the glands adjust.^[118] This adjustment is thought to result in healthier, more balanced scalp conditions, though the process requires patience and consistent alternative cleansing.^[119] Common methods within the movement include co-washing, which involves massaging conditioner through the hair to cleanse without stripping oils, as conditioners are formulated to remove surface buildup gently while retaining moisture.^[118] Other techniques feature baking soda rinses—diluted in water to create a mild abrasive paste—for occasional deep cleansing to dissolve residues, followed by apple cider vinegar rinses diluted at a 1:4 ratio with water to restore the scalp's pH balance around 4.5 to 5.5 and close the hair cuticle.^[120] These practices are tailored to hair type, with co-washing suiting frequent washes and baking soda-vinegar used sparingly to avoid dryness.^[121] Proponents claim benefits such as reduced frizz, enhanced curl definition, and a healthier scalp due to sustained moisture and natural oil distribution, with anecdotal reports from users describing shinier, less brittle hair after the transition.^[122] However, evidence remains primarily experiential, with larger clinical trials needed to confirm long-term efficacy.^[123] Critics highlight risks including product or environmental buildup on the scalp if methods are not executed properly, which can exacerbate dandruff or seborrheic dermatitis in susceptible individuals.^[124] Without adequate cleansing, there is also potential for bacterial or fungal infections, such as overgrowth of Malassezia yeast, due to accumulated oils and debris compromising hygiene.^[125] Dermatologists emphasize that while No Poo may suit some, those with oily scalps or medical conditions should consult professionals to avoid scalp health issues.^[126] As a compromise for those hesitant to fully eliminate shampoo, sulfate-free options—often termed "low-poo" cleansers—offer a gentler alternative that minimizes oil stripping while providing some lather.^[127]

Traditional and Natural Alternatives

Traditional and natural alternatives to commercial shampoos draw from global cultural practices and contemporary DIY approaches, emphasizing plant-based and mineral-rich methods for gentle cleansing and conditioning. In India, the revival of ancient Ayurvedic techniques involves soapnuts from the Sapindus mukorossi tree, which release natural saponins—a group of triterpenoid glycosides—when soaked or boiled in water, creating a mild, biodegradable lather that cleanses hair without harsh surfactants. These saponins have been utilized for centuries in traditional hair washing rituals, offering antimicrobial properties that help treat scalp conditions like dandruff while preserving the hair's natural lipid barrier.^[128] Across West Africa, indigenous hair care traditions incorporate shea butter extracted from the nuts of the Vitellaria paradoxa tree, often blended with aloe vera gel from Aloe species for conditioning treatments that hydrate and protect without detergents. Shea butter's rich fatty acid profile provides deep emollience, sealing moisture into dry or coily hair textures common in the region, while aloe vera's mucilaginous polysaccharides soothe irritation and enhance scalp hydration, reflecting ethnobotanical knowledge documented in African plant-based cosmetology. These mixtures, applied as masks or direct rubs, have sustained hair health in arid environments for generations, prioritizing nourishment over synthetic foaming agents.^[129] Contemporary DIY recipes build on these foundations, using accessible natural ingredients for targeted benefits. Bentonite clay, a volcanic ash-derived mineral, is mixed into paste masks with water or apple cider vinegar to absorb excess sebum and buildup through its negatively charged ions that bind to positively charged toxins and oils, effectively detoxifying the scalp without over-drying. Similarly, rosemary infusions—prepared by steeping fresh leaves in hot water or carrier oils—stimulate hair follicles; a randomized trial found rosemary oil applied topically for six months increased hair count in androgenetic alopecia patients comparably to 2% minoxidil, attributed to enhanced microcirculation and anti-inflammatory effects.^[130]^[131] Environmental motivations fuel the adoption of these alternatives, as zero-waste practices like reusable soapnut shells and powder-based clays minimize single-use plastic packaging, addressing the cosmetics industry's contribution to global plastic pollution—with over 120 billion units of packaging produced annually, most of which ends up as waste due to low recycling rates.^[132] This eco-conscious shift supports market expansion, with the global herbal shampoo segment valued at USD 3.01 billion in 2024 and projected to grow at a 7.3% CAGR through 2030, driven by demand for sustainable, low-impact options that reduce chemical runoff into waterways.^[133] Scientific validation underscores their viability, particularly for rhassoul clay sourced from Moroccan deposits, which studies describe as a stevensite-rich mineral with high adsorption capacity for sebum and impurities. Formulations using rhassoul in solid shampoo bars exhibit detergency and foam stability akin to mild synthetic shampoos, while causing less scalp irritation and better preserving hair elasticity, positioning it as an effective natural cleanser for sensitive scalps.^[134]

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The No Poo Shampoo Method - Healthy Hair or Hype? - Illumai
The "no poo" method is not washing hair daily with shampoo, aiming to reduce oil production and break dependency on oil-stripping shampoos.Missing: core theory
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https://health.clevelandclinic.org/how-much-hair-is-normal-to-lose-in-the-shower
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Did the 'No Poo' Method Give Us the Best Hair Ever? - Thrive Market
Oct 8, 2025 · The most common “no poo” method is to wash hair with baking soda and condition with apple cider vinegar. The theory is that using this base and ...Missing: co- | Show results with:co-<|separator|>
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Should You Shampoo Your Hair? - Consumer Reports
Dec 24, 2023 · With the no-poo method, your hair is still being cleansed, just not with shampoo, therefore eliminating the risk of stripping away those natural ...Missing: core theory
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The Impact of Shampoo Wash Frequency on Scalp and Hair ... - NIH
Feb 15, 2021 · It was observed that overall satisfaction with hair and scalp condition was achieved when washing 5–6 times per week.Missing: history | Show results with:history
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Does NO POO Actually Work? - ANTIDOTE Hair Care
Apr 10, 2024 · There are no rigorous scientific studies that support the benefits of the No-Poo method, according to critics. Despite the fact that minimizing ...Missing: hygiene | Show results with:hygiene
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No-Poo Hair Care: The Good, The Bad, and The Ugly
Jun 25, 2025 · When you follow a no-poo regimen, avoiding shampoo can lead to persistent scalp issues if you're prone to dandruff, seborrheic dermatitis, or ...Missing: criticisms hygiene
[118]
Is the shampoo-skipping #NoPoo trend good for your hair?
Dec 29, 2015 · People who don't use detergent shampoo to clean the scalp run the risk of developing fungal and bacterial infections, Dorin said. They also ...Missing: criticisms hygiene
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Is “No Poo” healthy? A medical opinion | Sakura's Beauty Lab
Jun 16, 2016 · No poo in its purest form( all natural no product)is unhealthy, since it can lead to sebum, dirt, oil and environmental pollutants build up ...
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The Truth About the Curly Girl Method: What Works, What Doesn't ...
Jun 24, 2025 · Low-poo: A low- or no-lather sulfate-free cleanser formulated to be gentler than traditional shampoo. Low-poo serves as a middle ground between ...Missing: origins | Show results with:origins
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Triterpenoid Saponins from Washnut (Sapindus mukorossi Gaertn.)
In natural medicine, they are used to treat eczema, pimples, psoriasis, epilepsy, chlorosis, migraine, and due to the presence of saponin, also to remove lice ...
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Cosmetopoeia of African Plants in Hair Treatment and Care - MDPI
The current study provides a comprehensive summary of the indigenous knowledge of African plants that are being used for hair care. The research on efficacy or ...
[123]
Bentonite Clay as a Natural Remedy: A Brief Review - PMC
Bentonite clay has been shown to act as a detoxifying agent. This property is referred to its poly-cationic nature, which leads to absorption of negative charge ...Missing: oil | Show results with:oil
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Rosemary oil vs minoxidil 2% for the treatment of androgenetic ...
The present study aimed to investigate the clinical efficacy of rosemary oil in the treatment of androgenetic alopecia (AGA) and compare its effects with ...
[125]
Herbal Shampoo Market Size & Share | Industry Report, 2030
The global herbal shampoo market size was estimated at USD 3010.2 million in 2024, and projected to reach USD 4525.0 million by 2030, growing at a CAGR of 7.3% ...
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Hair Care Cosmetics: From Traditional Shampoo to Solid Clay and ...
Feb 19, 2019 · As reported in several Indian literature studies [17], herbal shampoos are usually formulated incorporating some common traditional drugs ...