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Sunrise Ruby

The Sunrise Ruby is a 25.59-carat cushion-shaped natural of exceptional vivid "pigeon's blood" red hue, originating from the historic mines in (formerly ), and was the most expensive ever sold at when it fetched a record $30.42 million in 2015 (though this total price record was surpassed in June 2023 by the 55.22-carat Estrela de Fura for $34.8 million). This untreated gem, showing no indications of heat enhancement, exhibits intense red fluorescence due to its high content, making it one of the rarest and finest examples of Burmese rubies. It is mounted in a ring crafted by , flanked by two shield-shaped diamonds weighing 2.47 and 2.70 carats, with French assay marks and the jeweler's signature. The 's name derives from "The Sunrise Ruby," a poem by the 13th-century Sufi poet , which evokes imagery of a illuminated by dawn , symbolizing and . On May 12, 2015, the achieved auction history at , selling for 28.25 million Swiss francs (approximately $30.42 million USD) to Austrian collector , shattering records for the highest price paid for a at the time and the highest price per for any colored at over $1.18 million per . The sale, exceeding its pre-auction estimate of 11.7–17.5 million Swiss francs, underscored the gem's unparalleled quality and the enduring allure of unheated Burmese , which have been prized since ancient times for their purity and color intensity. Accompanied by gemmological reports from Gübelin and SSEF laboratories confirming its natural origin, no treatment, and provenance, the remains a benchmark in the world of fine jewelry. In 2023, it reappeared at , fetching 13.055 million Swiss francs, though below expectations, reaffirming its status as an iconic treasure.

Physical Characteristics

Weight and Dimensions

The Sunrise Ruby weighs 25.59 carats, equivalent to 5.118 grams. This precise measurement was confirmed through certifications by leading gemological laboratories, including the Gübelin Gem Lab and the Swiss Gemmological Institute (SSEF), which conducted detailed analyses of the stone's properties. The features a cushion-shaped cut, with approximate dimensions of 17.66 in length, 15.07 in width, and 10.47 in depth, as documented in the SSEF report accompanying its auction documentation. These measurements highlight the as an exceptionally large faceted example, far exceeding typical sizes for high-quality rubies, where fine specimens over one are already rare and most fall under five carats.

Color and Clarity

The Sunrise Ruby exhibits a vivid "pigeon-blood" hue, defined as a pure, intense lacking significant or undertones, which is the hallmark of top-quality Burmese rubies. This exceptional color saturation and homogeneity have been rated as the finest possible by the Swiss Gemmological Institute (SSEF) in their certification report, emphasizing its rarity and optical purity. In terms of clarity, the gem is eye-clean, meaning it appears free of visible inclusions to the unaided eye, with only minimal internal features typical of unheated Burmese rubies that do not detract from its brilliance. Under 10x , no flaws are apparent, contributing to its high gemological value. The Gübelin Gem Lab has certified the stone's natural , confirming it as untreated and free of enhancements, which further underscores its pristine condition. The ruby's allure is enhanced by its strong red fluorescence under ultraviolet light, creating an internal glow that intensifies the perceived depth and vibrancy of its color. This phenomenon is characteristic of chromium-rich from . Spectrally, the red coloration is attributed to impurities, evidenced by characteristic bands at approximately 450 nm (violet-blue region) and 690 nm (near-infrared), which selectively transmit red wavelengths while absorbing others.

Cut and Setting

The Sunrise Ruby features a cushion-shaped brilliant cut, a that maximizes the stone's vivid red color through precise and internal light reflections. This cut preserves the gem's inherent depth of color by optimizing light return, allowing the pigeon's blood hue to radiate with exceptional fire and brilliance. According to the auction catalog, the ruby's proportions are finely balanced to enhance saturation and clarity without any notable symmetry issues, as confirmed by gemological certifications from SSEF and Gübelin. The ruby is mounted in a classic ring, flanked by two shield-shaped diamonds weighing 2.47 and 2.70 carats, respectively. Crafted in (Pt 950) with assay marks and signed by (numbered H4S00449), the setting employs a mount that accentuates the ruby's fiery while providing secure protection. This design highlights the gem's technical excellence, drawing the eye to its central prominence without detracting from the overall elegance. The craftsmanship reflects Cartier's expertise in integrating colored stones into jewelry, with the ring's proportions ensuring optimal light performance around the ruby. Gemological reports note the cut's role in elevating the stone's visual impact, making it a benchmark for ruby presentation in high jewelry.

Origin and Gemology

Mining Provenance

The Sunrise Ruby originates from the Mogok Valley in the Mandalay Region of Myanmar (formerly Burma), a region celebrated as the "Valley of Rubies" for yielding the majority of the world's highest-quality rubies over centuries. This area has been a primary source of gem corundum since ancient times, with its marble-hosted deposits contributing to the exceptional clarity and vivid "pigeon's blood" red hue characteristic of Burmese rubies like the 25.59-carat Sunrise Ruby. The exact date of mining for the Sunrise Ruby is unknown, but it originates from the historic mines during the colonial era in Upper Burma. At that time, the mines operated under colonial oversight, with production peaking as European demand for fine gems surged, though much of the output from this era remains part of legacy stockpiles due to depleted primary deposits since the late . The gem's early trade history and prior to the mid-20th century are not documented, though Burmese rubies from this period often entered international markets through informal routes, including overland commerce and via neighboring countries like and , amid colonial regulations on gem exports. The gem was extracted via alluvial mining techniques, involving the sifting of ancient river gravels known locally as byon, which concentrate rubies weathered from underlying formations. This labor-intensive process, common in Mogok's secondary deposits, allowed for the recovery of large, unfractured crystals like the Sunrise Ruby without the need for deep hard-rock tunneling.

Ruby Formation and Unique Traits

Rubies, including the Sunrise Ruby, belong to the family, with a primary of aluminum (Al₂O₃). The distinctive red color arises from trace impurities of (Cr³⁺), typically ranging from 1-3% by weight as Cr₂O₃, which substitute for aluminum ions in the crystal lattice and absorb green and violet light while transmitting red wavelengths. These gems form through metamorphic processes in deposits, where undergoes recrystallization under elevated temperatures of 500-800°C and pressures of 2-4 kbar over millions of years, often during tectonic events like mountain-building orogenies. This environment facilitates the concentration of aluminum and from surrounding rocks, allowing large crystals to grow slowly in low-silica, carbonate-rich conditions. The Sunrise Ruby exemplifies exceptional traits within this formation context, as an untreated, natural specimen from Burmese marble deposits, confirmed free of enhancement—a rarity that preserves its original . Its large size and high clarity are unusual, given that marble-hosted rubies often contain small or other inclusions from the host rock, limiting flawless crystals above 10 carats. Accompanied by a Gübelin report, it exhibits strong under light due to its content, alongside the standard of 1.762-1.770, which contributes to its vivid light dispersion.

Ownership and Auction History

Pre-2015 Ownership

The provenance of the Sunrise Ruby prior to its 2015 auction remains largely undocumented, a common occurrence in the gem trade where transactions often occur privately among dealers and collectors without public records. The gem, mined in the Mogok Valley of (now ), entered the international market sometime after its extraction, but specific details of its early custodianship through Asian and European channels are not available in public sources. The ruby was set in a ring and acquired by private owners, though no named individuals or collections from this period are identified. Immediately before the , it was held in a private collection of Cartier jewels and consigned to Geneva sale as the property of a lady, underscoring the opacity typical of high-end jewelry . In preparation for the 2015 sale, the ruby underwent authentication by leading gemological laboratories, confirming its natural Burmese origin and absence of thermal enhancement. The Swiss Gemmological Institute (SSEF) report no. 78414, dated February 4, 2015, and the Gübelin Gem Lab report no. 15020105, dated February 11, 2015, both verified the 25.59-carat stone as unheated and exhibiting the prized saturated red color associated with top Mogok rubies. These assessments established its legitimacy but revealed no additional insights into prior ownership.

2015 Sotheby's Sale

The Sunrise Ruby was offered at "Magnificent Jewels and Noble Jewels" sale on May 12, 2015, in , , with a presale estimate of $12 million to $18 million USD. The 25.59-carat unheated Burmese gem, mounted in a ring flanked by shield-shaped diamonds, was highlighted in the auction catalog as a "superb and extremely rare" specimen exhibiting vivid pigeon-blood red and exceptional clarity. Bidding commenced at 11 million Swiss francs and escalated rapidly over a seven-minute contest between telephone participants, including an anonymous bidder later identified as Austrian heiress and a Swiss competitor. The lot realized a price of 28.25 million Swiss francs ($30.42 million USD including premium), surpassing expectations and establishing world records for a , colored per , and non-diamond gem. Heidi Horten, a prominent art and jewelry collector whose passion for fine gems stemmed from acquisitions made alongside her late husband Helmut Horten, secured the piece as a centerpiece for her renowned collection. Following the sale, Horten displayed the ring publicly, notably wearing it at the 2017 opening of her "WOW! The Heidi Horten Collection" exhibition in Vienna, where it drew admiration for its radiant allure. The acquisition marked a private transfer of ownership, with Horten retaining the gem without subsequent public auctions for several years.

2023 Christie's Sale

Following the death of on June 12, 2022, her estate consigned the Sunrise Ruby ring to Geneva auction, held on May 10, 2023, as part of the "The World of Heidi Horten: Magnificent Jewels" sale. Horten had purchased the ring in 2015 at Geneva for $30.42 million. The ring carried a presale estimate of CHF 14-18 million (approximately $15.7-20.2 million USD). It ultimately sold for CHF 13.055 million ($14.7 million USD), falling below the low estimate amid challenging market conditions for high-end jewelry. Bidding started competitively, with multiple participants driving the price upward initially, but interest cooled due to economic uncertainties and controversy over the Horten family's historical ties to the Nazi regime and the source of their wealth; the buyer remained anonymous and is believed to be a private collector. As of the latest available information, the ownership of the Sunrise Ruby has remained undisclosed, and the gem has not appeared in public exhibitions or events.

Significance and Legacy

Record-Breaking Achievements

The Sunrise Ruby achieved multiple auction milestones during its 2015 sale at , where the 25.59-carat untreated Burmese stone fetched $30.42 million, establishing it as the most expensive ever sold at the time. This price equated to approximately $1.18 million per , marking the first to surpass the $1 million per threshold and setting a new record for the highest price per for any . Additionally, it became the most valuable non-diamond sold at auction, holding that distinction until later sales like the 2023 Estrela de Fura . The recognized it as the most expensive based on this hammer price of 28.25 million Swiss francs. The sale significantly elevated the overall performance of Magnificent and Noble Jewels , which totaled $160.91 million— the highest amount ever achieved for a jewelry up to that point, surpassing the previous record by nearly $20 million. This outcome underscored the peak demand for high-quality, untreated Burmese rubies in the mid-2010s, as collectors and investors increasingly prized their natural pigeon-blood color and rarity amid growing scarcity from Myanmar's mines. The transaction highlighted a broader shift toward , provenance-verified stones, with the ruby ring's success driving heightened interest in similar untreated specimens. In 2023, the Sunrise Ruby re-entered the market at Geneva as part of the Heidi Horten collection sale, realizing CHF 13.055 million ($14.6 million)—a figure below its pre-sale estimate of CHF 14–18 million but still positioning it among the top historically. This result reflected market volatility in the colored gem sector, influenced by economic factors and evolving preferences, yet affirmed the stone's enduring value as a for exceptional Burmese rubies.

Comparisons with Other Famous Rubies

The Sunrise Ruby distinguishes itself from other renowned rubies through its untreated Burmese origin, vivid pigeon-blood hue, and exceptional clarity in a faceted form exceeding 25 carats. In contrast, the Rosser Reeves Star Ruby, weighing 138.72 carats and originating from , displays a striking six-rayed but exhibits a less intense color saturation typical of non-Burmese sources; while is common in star rubies to enhance the effect, its semi-translucent quality and size make it a museum piece rather than an auction benchmark, with no recorded sale but high appraised value. Compared to the De Long Star Ruby, a 100.32-carat Burmese also featuring , the Sunrise surpasses in transparency and lack of notable flaws—the De Long bears visible inclusions and a historical chip from a theft, reducing its appeal as a faceted gem despite its shared origin; valued at around $20 million in insurance estimates but never auctioned, it resides in the , emphasizing the Sunrise's superior untreated clarity and market-tested price. The Graff Ruby, an 8.62-carat untreated Burmese faceted stone, achieved $8.6 million at auction in 2014 (about $997,727 per ), but its smaller finished size pales against the Sunrise's 25.59 carats and over $1 million per , with the latter's deeper pigeon-blood and larger scale setting it apart despite both hailing from . Positioned among the top five most expensive rubies sold at , the Sunrise Ruby shares its rare untreated Burmese provenance with elite peers like the Crimson Flame, while the Estrela de Fura from also exemplifies high-value untreated rubies; yet no other untreated example over 25 carats matches its combination of size, color purity, and record per-carat value, cementing its unparalleled status in the gem market.

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